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And I admired how the already awe-inspiring " dance " of the Lippizans ( which I saw only in practice form just once , back in 1972 , when I visited the Spanish Riding School in Vienna ) takes on new magic and meaning . I saw only tragedies everywhere . To be sure , the scene was overwhelmingly male ; after the two women had passed , I saw only men on bicycles , with white prayer caps and brown or gray blankets .