text: " On descending the southern side of the mountains they at length received ocular demonstration of their being really in Italy by observing matronly-looking woman engaged in certain offices touching the long black hair of her daughter which showed that combs were still as scarce as when Horace stigmatized the "incomptum caput" of Canidia; and the necessity of lavender water to pass with any thing like comfort through the town and villages which looked so enchanting at a distance in the midst of their olive groves and cypresses is feelingly commented upon