text:  Who would have the effrontery to maintain that an Englishman the very type of the useful at Calcutta in his cotton jacket and nankeens would in the same habiliments be a suitably dressed man at St Petersburg? and however much a well-set ring may ornament an aristocratic finger (though aristocratic fingers like aristocratic hands as Byron observes need no ornament to tell their origin ) who but an Otaheitan would admire the application of them to the gouty toes of some "fine old English gentleman?" Usefulness first then and ornament afterwards; think first of what you actually want for your health or comfort; cut your coat upon that pattern clap on your lace afterwards; but enrich it only to improve its appearance not to interfere with to conceal or to alter its original destination