text:  Most of them are disgraced by vulgar ornaments in which respect they surpass even the worst specimens at Naples! Gilt stucco cut and stamped into flowery compartments shows off like a huge twelfth cake! but the _Matrice_ or _Duomo_ and the Saracenic _Chapel of the Palazzo Reale_ and the cathedral of _Monreale_ four miles beyond the town are noble exceptions; these in their several ways are all interesting both within and without