text:  But before we enter into controversy on the superficial appearance of man in the nineteenth century let us hasten to recall attention to our definition of good taste in all matters of dress--utility first and ornament afterwards but ornament always subservient to utility--and let us also appease the indignation of the tailoring world by affirming that in one grand class of coats--we will specify which by and by--the public seem to have arrived at a tolerably reasonable result