**6.3 Results obtained in subsonic wake flows**

Again, near wake flow downstream from a circular cylinder has been studied at Mach 0.45. Here, one used a ORCA-3CCD Hamamatsu camera with 3 chips of 1344x1024 pixels, 6.45 m x 6.45 m in size. The framing rate is 9 f/s and the filters of RGB camera are very narrowband and centred on the three laser wavelengths. As the framing rate is very slow compared to the frequency of the vortex street, a transducer has been implemented in the cylinder at an azimuth of 90° (perpendicular to the flow axis) in order to synchronize the

Achromatic lenses

Fig. 14. Generation and micro-fringes formation by the phenomenon studied

Again, near wake flow downstream from a circular cylinder has been studied at Mach 0.45. Here, one used a ORCA-3CCD Hamamatsu camera with 3 chips of 1344x1024 pixels, 6.45 m x 6.45 m in size. The framing rate is 9 f/s and the filters of RGB camera are very narrowband and centred on the three laser wavelengths. As the framing rate is very slow compared to the frequency of the vortex street, a transducer has been implemented in the cylinder at an azimuth of 90° (perpendicular to the flow axis) in order to synchronize the

**6.3 Results obtained in subsonic wake flows**

Fig. 13. Digital colour holographic interferometer – Formation of spatial carrier frequencies interference fringes are introduced into the field of visualization. These micro fringes are recorded on the CCD in order to calculate the three reference phase maps. Then the wind tunnel is started and the three object waves are distorted by the aerodynamic phenomenon. Micro-fringes interference is again recorded by the 3CCD sensor to enable calculation of the phase maps related to the object. For maps of phase difference, the reference phase is

cube

Camera

Acousto optical cell

1 2 3 Mask

Spatial

Micro-fringes

subtracted from the phase object.

Diaphragm

Filter Beamsplitter

Concave mirror

**MR MG MB**

**RR RG RB**

Flat mirror

*a) Digital optical bench b) Micro-fringes recording*

Object

**3** CCD sensor

interferogram recording with the signal of the unsteady pressure measurement. The cycle of the vortex street was decomposed in eight different instants shifted by 76 s and at each instant, five interferograms were recorded from several cycles to average the unsteady maps. First, Fig. 15 shows two micro fringes images recorded with and without the flow in order to constitute reference and object interferograms. It can be seen in the zoomed image that micro-fringes are deformed by the shear layer of the upper side.

Fig. 15. Micro-fringes recording for the reference and object images

The three Fourier transforms are calculated from each image in order to reconstruct the phase maps with the +1 order (the zero order and the -1 order are filtered). An example of reference and measurement spectra is given in Fig. 16 for the green line. One can see that the spectrum only exhibits a spot corresponding to the green spatial carrier frequency. No parasitic frequencies due to the blue and red lines are found. By subtracting the reference phase maps from the measurement phase maps, one obtains the modulo2 phase difference maps. After unwrapping, it possible to compute the refractive index maps and the gas density field assuming the Gladstone-Dale relation.

Fig. 16. FFT reference and object spectra and difference phase map for the green line

Real-Time Colour Holographic Interferometry (from Holographic Plate to Digital Hologram) 25

can then be compared to that obtained using the reflection holographic plates. After locating an interferogram recorded at a phase very similar to that of digital interferogram, Fig. 18

So, in image colour holographic interferometry, a reflection panchromatic holographic plate (7,000 to 10,000 lines per mm in spatial resolution) has to be illuminated with a total energy of 600 J and the resetting of holographic plate is very sensitive and delicate. In digital technique, energy of 1J is sufficient to illuminate the sensor (155 lines per mm in resolution). The implementation is easy enough and the phase difference is entirely estimated with a computer. The coherence lengths of the three lasers must be more 2 meters in the two optical setups. In image holographic interferometry, about 220 successive frames of the phenomenon can be recorded at high framing rate (35,000 images per second with an exposure time of 750 ns for each). Each image has to be digitalized and processed. Also, it is important to obtain a reference hologram of about 50% diffraction efficiency for the three lines. In digital holographic interferometry, the framing rate is limited to 9 frames per second, full size and a synchronized triggering of interferograms recording has to be used to

The possibilities of image and digital colour holographic interferometry have been demonstrated. Colour holographic interferometry using panchromatic plates will continue to be used due to the high resolution of holographic plates. In near future, digital threewavelength holographic interferometry seems the best candidate to characterize the future complex flows. Although CCD resolution and size are not as good as that of holographic plates, the digital approach is more accessible and versatile since the time for the hologram processing is greatly reduced and the processing is purely numerical. On the other hand, the value of using colour has been demonstrated as the zero order fringe can be easily determined and the variation in the background colour due to disturbances can be quantified. The limitations of the digital method seem to lie in the wide spectral sensitivity of the sensor which produces light diffusion in each monochromatic hologram. Work is currently in progress for removing the colour diffusion using a segmentation approach. Success in this strategy will allow increasing the spatial resolution in the reconstructed object. Future work will focus on the extension of the proposed technique for analyzing 3D

shows that the correspondence is very good.

analyze unsteady phenomena.

**7. Conclusion**

Fig. 18. Comparison between image and digital interferogram

Colour interferences fringes and gas density field are shown in Fig. 17 for the first three images of one cycle of the vortex street.

Fig. 17. Evolution of colour interference fringes and gas density field – Mach 0.45

The intensity of the interference fringes is computed on the three channels R, G, B from the phase maps with following the following relationship :

$$\mathbf{I}\_{\boldsymbol{\lambda}} = \mathbf{A}\_{\boldsymbol{\lambda}} (\mathbf{1} + \cos(\boldsymbol{\Delta} \boldsymbol{\phi}\_{\boldsymbol{\lambda}}) \tag{10}$$

The gas density measured to the cylinder nose is particular as the gas density is equal to the stagnation gas density though the position of the vortex street, that means the colour found at this point has to be the same on each interferogram. Here, the intensity of colour interferences fringes is computed by imposing the white colour ( = 0 m) on each interferogram. Note this shifting is only made possible by the use of colour in the experiments. The time evolution of the gas density fields shows that the gas density decreases to 73% of *io* in the vortex core. Then, the averaged field of one cycle is calculated by averaging the 8 maps of instantaneous gas density field.

### **6.4 Comparison between holographic plate and digital holograms**

As regards previous results obtained, silver-halide plate and digital holographic interferometry can be compared. The only possibility to compare plate and digital interferograms is to compare the interferograms displaying the interference fringes. Indeed, the technique of holographic interferometry in real time using panchromatic plates directly displays the colour density variations of the flow. It's a light intensity information that is obtained. With digital holography, the three monochromatic intensity maps are superimposed to obtain a colour map of the intensity of the interference fringes. This map can then be compared to that obtained using the reflection holographic plates. After locating an interferogram recorded at a phase very similar to that of digital interferogram, Fig. 18 shows that the correspondence is very good.

Fig. 18. Comparison between image and digital interferogram

So, in image colour holographic interferometry, a reflection panchromatic holographic plate (7,000 to 10,000 lines per mm in spatial resolution) has to be illuminated with a total energy of 600 J and the resetting of holographic plate is very sensitive and delicate. In digital technique, energy of 1J is sufficient to illuminate the sensor (155 lines per mm in resolution). The implementation is easy enough and the phase difference is entirely estimated with a computer. The coherence lengths of the three lasers must be more 2 meters in the two optical setups. In image holographic interferometry, about 220 successive frames of the phenomenon can be recorded at high framing rate (35,000 images per second with an exposure time of 750 ns for each). Each image has to be digitalized and processed. Also, it is important to obtain a reference hologram of about 50% diffraction efficiency for the three lines. In digital holographic interferometry, the framing rate is limited to 9 frames per second, full size and a synchronized triggering of interferograms recording has to be used to analyze unsteady phenomena.


*Article* **The Influence of Daoism on the Dramatization of the Liaozhaixi of Chuanju**

**Xing Lan**

> School of Literatures, Languages and Cultures, The University of Edinburgh, Edinburgh EH8 9LH, UK<EMAIL_ADDRESS>
**Abstract:** This study employs a collection of fresh resources of the Liaozhaixi of Chuanju (Sichuan opera) to examine the influence of Daoism upon the dramatization of Chinese theatre. In contrast to Buddhism, it has long been supposed that Daoism has exerted only a minor influence on Chinese theatre. Despite some progress after the year 2000, the research into Daoism's influence on Chinese theatre is still in its infancy. Noting the gap in the literature, the study identifies that the Liaozhaixi of Chuanju has provided us with some exceptional insights into Daoism's influence on Chinese theatre. Since 2012, the successive publication of 24 Liaozhaixi scripts of Chuanju allows us to more fully enter the exploration. Reinforced by these fresh resources, the study summarizes the influence of Daoism on the Liaozhaixi of Chuanju into two typical adaptation approaches, "transplantation" and "improvement". By analyzing the two approaches, the study will manifest how Daoism has shaped the dramatization of the Liaozhaixi of Chuanju and will employ these approaches to exemplify the confluence of religions and dramas in Chinese folk culture.

**Keywords:** *Liaozhai zhiyi*; Daoism; dramas; Sichuan


**1. Introduction**

The global livestock industry faces an extensive challenge since a presumed dichotomy exists between the increasing requirements for animal feeding conferred by population growth and consumer concerns regarding the sustainability of livestock production [1]. Meanwhile, the cost of feed grains for livestock has increased substantially in recent years [2]. Thus, there is an increasing interest in using silages as a main source of forages in ruminant's diets, with high nutritive value as an alternative feed source. In high-producing dairy cattle, it is important to maximize digestible carbohydrate intake or increase neutral detergent fiber digestibility (NDFD) from silage because the energy needed for maintenance and milk production often

© 2016 The Author(s). Licensee InTech. This chapter is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. © 2016 The Author(s). Licensee InTech. This chapter is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

exceeds the amount of energy high-producing cows can consume, particularly in early lactation [3]. One of the main factors that affect silage utilization is the proportion of its potentially digestible fiber fraction, where silage having less than 60% of total fiber content is available for digestion by the ruminant animal [4]. The first section of this chapter will discuss the most important aspects of silage fiber digestibility. The chapter starts by the importance of fiber digestibility, before considering the method used for evaluating fiber digestibility. This is followed by fiber digestion and utilization in ruminants. The chapter ends with sections on the factors that effect on fiber digestibility in silages.

predict lactational performance. The forage and total mixed ration (TMR) particle size distribution recommendation using Penn state particle separator as reported by Heinrichs and

Maximizing Fiber Utilization of Silage in Ruminants

http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/64471

125

**Table 1.** Recommended minimum NDF concentration based on the proportion of NDF coming from forage sources [9].

**Table 2.** Forage and TMR particle size distribution using Penn state particle separator as reported by Heinrichs and

Understanding the mechanism of fiber digestion is very important to accurately estimate the digestible energy of fiber and to improve animal performance. Fiber is digested primarily in the rumen as the result of the dynamic operation that is affected by the chemical nature of the fiber and by the passage and digestion rate of fiber within the digestive tract of the animal. The potentially digestible NDF (pdNDF) and the digestion rate (kd) vary greatly between and within different silage types [14, 17]. The passage rate of fiber (kp) is in the first place influenced by the animal, where the digestion of fiber increases along with increased retention time of feed in the rumen [15, 18]. Several models have been developed to describe the process of digestion in the rumen; some models are simple or complex. Most of these models have been developed by fractional schemes to correlate the disappearance or gas production curves with rumen digestibility of feed components, which assume that the feed component includes at least two portions: a potentially degradable fraction and an undegradable fraction. The potentially degradable portion will be degraded at a fractional rate (per hour), after a discrete

>19.0 mm 5 ± 3 15 ± 5 5 ± 3 19.0–8.0 mm 55 ± 10 60 ± 15 40 ± 10 8.0–1.18 mm 40 ± 10 30 ± 10 40 ± 10 <1.18 mm <5 <5 <20

**3. Evaluating of fiber digestibility in ruminants**

**Corn silage Haylage TMR**

*Minimum NDF from forage NDF from forage (% of total NDF) Minimum NDF in diet*

19 75 25 18 66 27 17 58 29 16 51 31 15a 45 33

Kononoff is presented in **Table 2** [13].

Not recommended because of depression of milk fat test.

**Sieve size Type**

a

Kononoff [13].


**Contents**

## **About the Editors**

**Viacheslav Adamchuk** obtained a mechanical engineering degree from the National Agricultural University of Ukraine in his hometown. Later, he received both M.S. and Ph.D. degrees in Agricultural and Biological Engineering from Purdue University. Shortly after graduation, Dr. Adamchuk began his academic career as a faculty member in the department of Biological Systems Engineering at the University of Nebraska–Lincoln. There, he taught university students, conducted research, and delivered outreach programs relevant to precision agriculture, spatial data management, and education robotics. In 2010, Dr. Adamchuk joined the Department of Bioresource Engineering at McGill University (Chair of the Department since 2018), while retaining his adjunct status at the University of Nebraska–Lincoln. At McGill University, Dr. Adamchuk has formed the Precision Agriculture and Sensor Systems (PASS) research team that has been actively involved in research and outreach activities across Canada and the USA as well as a variety of other global initiatives.

**Kenneth Sudduth** leads a multidisciplinary team conducting precision agriculture research on topics including field-scale implementation of precision agriculture systems and evaluation of their economic and environmental effects at the USDA Agricultural Research Service's Cropping Systems and Water Quality Research Unit in Columbia, Missouri, USA. Throughout his career, his research has focused on sensors, instrumentation, and data management and interpretation for soil and crop properties important in precision agriculture. This research is documented in over 150 peer-reviewed journal articles (seven of which have received journal paper awards) and one patent. Dr. Sudduth received a B.S. and M.S. from the University of Missouri and a Ph.D. from the University of Illinois, all in Agricultural Engineering. He serves as an associate editor or editorial board member for several journals, holds an adjunct faculty position at the University of Missouri, and is Past-President of the International Society of Precision Agriculture. He has received over 25 international invitations to present his research and four major awards from three national/international scientific societies.

**Asim Biswas** is an Associate Professor at the University of Guelph, Canada, and an Adjunct Professor at McGill University, Canada. He is also a Visiting Professor at Jiangxi University of Finance and Economics, China, and a Jinshan Scholar Professor at Jiangsu University, China. Previously, he worked as Assistant Professor at McGill University, Canada, and Environmental Research Scientist at the Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation, Australia. Dr. Biswas completed all three degrees in soil science: a Ph.D. from the University of Saskatchewan; Canada; an M.Sc. from the University of Agricultural Sciences-Bangalore, India; and a B.Sc. from Bidhan Chandra Agricultural University, West Bengal, India. Dr. Biswas's research program on sustainable soil management focuses on providing solutions to increase the productivity and resilience of land-based agri-food production systems. His team works towards developing a more sustainable agri-food system to meet the challenges of a changing climate but also to do so in an environmentally sustainable manner. The core of his research is the design and development of sensors for fast, inexpensive, and accurate characterization of soil properties. He teaches courses related to traditional soil science and data-driven and sensor-based agriculture. He leads and is a member of various committees of international organizations including the International Union of Soil Sciences, International Society of Precision Agriculture, Soil Science Society of America, American Society of Agronomy, and Canadian Society of Soil Science. He is an Associate Editor of five journals and has guest edited another five Special Issues from different journals.


*Edited by Sunil Kumar and Rakesh Kumar*

The book reports research on relationship between fungal contamination and its health effects in large Asian cities, estimation of ambient air quality in Delhi, a qualitative study of air pollutants from road traffic, air quality in low-energy buildings, some aspects of the Sentinel method for pollution problem, evaluation of dry atmospheric deposition at sites in the vicinity of fuel oil fired power, particles especially PM 10 in the indoor environment, etc.

ISBN 978-953-51-0161-1

Air Quality - Monitoring and Modeling

Photo by leskas / iStock

## Air Quality Monitoring and Modeling

*Edited by Sunil Kumar and Rakesh Kumar*

**AIR QUALITY –**

**MODELING**

**INTECHOPEN.COM**

**MONITORING AND**

Edited by **Sunil Kumar** and **Rakesh Kumar**


*4.5. Strengths, Limitations and Future Directions*

The strength of this study is the inclusion of a real-world TBI population from a defined geographical region with little migration and no exclusion criteria based on age or preinjury comorbidities. The study provides a useful overview and captures trends regarding patient flow into the direct pathway to specialized rehabilitation from a Level 1 trauma center. However, there are limitations to consider. There was no information available in the Oslo TBI Registry—Neurosurgery on later access to rehabilitation for patients not included in the direct pathway. In addition, there was a lack of information on longer-term outcomes for both groups. Thus, we cannot draw firm conclusions on the impact of direct or indirect care pathways in this study. Furthermore, the variables are crude and based on acute clinical parameters; they do not explain the multifaceted reality at the individual level. Information in the database is derived from medical records, where it is well known that information quality is variable. Moreover, database coding

errors cannot be completely ruled out, although the database is continuously searched and adjusted for coding errors.

Our results highlight the importance of continued focus on optimizing and maintaining a direct TBI care pathway and systematic assessment of rehabilitation needs during the acute phase for all hospital-admitted patients with TBI. To do so, it would be beneficial to develop recommendations for clinical practice to assess rehabilitation needs before patients are discharged from acute care. Finally, future studies on TBI care pathways should focus on patients >64 years.

**Author Contributions:** Conceptualization, C.T., N.A., M.A. and E.H.; methodology, C.T., N.A., M.A. and E.H.; software, C.T.; validation, C.B.; formal analysis, C.T. and C.B.; investigation, C.T. and E.H.; resources, Oslo University Hospital; data curation, C.T. and E.H.; writing—original draft preparation, C.T., N.A., E.H. and M.A.; writing—review and editing, C.B., P.R., T.H. and C.R.; visualization, C.T.; supervision, N.A., E.H. and M.A.; project administration, M.A. and E.H.; funding acquisition, E.H. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript.

**Funding:** This research received no external funding.

**Institutional Review Board Statement:** The Oslo TBI registry uses the Medinsight database and is approved by the Oslo University Hospital data protection officer (DPO) with approval number 2016/17569, and this study is approved by OUH DPO approval number 18/20658. Ethical review and approval were waived for this study because the study qualifies as a quality control study.

**Informed Consent Statement:** Patient consent was waived because anonymized data were retrieved from the Oslo TBI Registry—Neurosurgery.

**Data Availability Statement:** The data presented in this study are available on request from the corresponding author if considered appropriate. The data are not publicly available due to privacy and ethical restrictions.

**Acknowledgments:** Ola Fougner Skaansar, for substantial contribution in collecting data.

**Conflicts of Interest:** The authors declare no conflict of interest.


**4. Conclusions**

The present work has investigated the effectiveness of different strategies to maximize the efficiency of RCCI combustion in a single-cylinder heavy-duty diesel engine. The solutions explored consisted of the optimization of the engine settings, modification of the piston bowl geometry, and variation of the low reactivity fuel properties. The major findings from this study are summarized as follows:

**Acknowledgments:** The authors acknowledge VOLVO Group Trucks Technology for supporting this research and express their gratitude to the Spanish economy and competitiveness ministry for partially funding this investigation under the project HiReCo (TRA2014-58870-R). The author J. Monsalve-Serrano thanks the Universitat Politècnica de València for his predoctoral contract (FPI-S2-2015-1531), which is included within the framework of Programa de Apoyo para la Investigación y Desarrollo (PAID).

**Author Contributions:** J.B. and A.G. conceived and designed the experiments; J.M.-S. performed the experiments; J.M.-S. and V.B. analyzed the data and wrote the paper. All authors discussed the results and commented on the manuscript at all stages.

**Conflicts of Interest:** The authors declare no conflict of interest. The founding sponsors had no role in the design of the study; in the collection, analyses, or interpretation of data; in the writing of the manuscript, and in the decision to publish the results.


**5. Future applications**

The first experimentations on the Smart Pebble system were carried out in 2009 and this sol‐ ution has been since then employed in several on-site applications on different beaches in Italy. The effective use of the system has roughly confirmed the results recorded in the labo‐ ratory tests: during the localization process, the transponders embedded inside the pebbles

were localized even from distances higher than 50cm.

392 Radio Frequency Identification from System to Applications

**Figure 3.** A Smart Pebble. On its surface is possible to notice the hole housing the transponder

**Figure 4.** A moment of the localization operations

The systems described in the previous sections represent a good starting point for the development of many other possible applications, in the same applicative fields but also in totally new ones.

Starting from the animal tracking application, the extension of this solution to other scenar‐ ios is limited mainly by the reading range, which forces the fish to come close to the reader antenna to be identified. Anyway, the chance to track animals also under water suggests a possible use of RFID technology also in the sector of fish breeding. In this case, the use of such a solution could be used to trace the production process and to guarantee the quality of the final product. On the opposite side, the use of RFID technology to trace the movements of wild fishes is notably more difficult. The RFID reading range makes the possibility to trace fishes in the sea (or even in a lake) virtually impossible because the chances that a fish will come close to some antenna positioned elsewhere are close to zero. On the other hand RFID could be used to monitor the movements of fishes along a river. In this case, antenna arrays could be structured as a sort of RFID barrier in locations where the river depth is low enough to allow the detection of every transponder passing over it. In this case, such a sys‐ tem could be for example useful to study the migration processes of fishes like salmons.

The technique set up for the pipeline monitoring could be easily extended to other typolo‐ gies of industrial monitoring. In particular, it could be applied to monitor the state of har‐ bour infrastructures, ship hulls, oil platforms and all the other offshore industrial plants. In all these scenarios, RFID could be useful to keep trace of the maintenance interventions per‐ formed in specific locations. The operators could use RFID transponders as a sort of elec‐ tronic note where the state of the site could be read and then updated every time that any sort of intervention is performed.

The underwater navigation application could be a good starting point to develop appli‐ cations where RFID is used to manage the movements of boats inside the harbours. In this case, RFID transponders could be used as a sort of electronic trail, with a reader positioned directly on the boat analysing the information stored on them and using it to move inside the harbour. On the other side, it could be possible to deploy transponders directly on the boat, and to use them as a sort of electronic license plate. This could al‐ low the boat to be automatically identified by a reader positioned on the pier without the direct intervention of a harbour operator.

**Author details**

**References**

2009.

2006

EAI Technologies, 2005.

Giuliano Benelli and Alessandro Pozzebon

University of Siena, Department of Information Engineering, Siena, Italy

[2] Butler L. Underwater Radio Communication. Amateur Radio, 1987.

cards and identification, Wiley and Sons, Chichester, UK, 2003.

[6] Intermec RFID System Manual, Intermec Technologies Corporation, 2005.

[8] Bacheldor B. A Fish Tale, RFID Journal, http://www.rfidjournal.com, 2011

Applications, pp. 294-299, Athens, Greece, 18-23 June 2009

tions, Sitges, Spain, 15-16 September 2011

[1] Edwards J. Undersea with RFID, RFID Journal, http://www.rfidjournal.com, 2012

[3] Finkenzeller K. RFID Handbook: Fundamentals and applications in contactless smart

RFID Under Water: Technical Issues and Applications

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[4] Goulbourne A. HF antenna design notes, technical application report, Texas Instru‐ ments, Radio Frequency Identification Systems, Tech. Rep. 11-08-26-003, 2003.

[5] Development and Implementation of RFID Technology, In-Tech, Wien, Austria,

[7] Realizing the promise of RFID: insights from early adopters and the future potential,

[9] Collins J. Taking RFID at new depths, RFID Journal, http://www.rfidjournal.com,

[10] Harasti T.J., Howell J.E. and Hertel W. M. Underwater RFID Arrangement for Opti‐ mizing Underwater Operations. United States Patent Application Publication, 2011

[11] Benelli G., Pozzebon A., Raguseo G., Bertoni D., Sarti G. An RFID based system for the underwater tracking of pebbles on artificial coarse beaches. Proceedings of SEN‐ SORCOMM 2009, The Third International Conference on Sensor Technologies and

[12] Benelli G., Pozzebon A., Bertoni D., Sarti G. An analysis on the use of LF RFID for the tracking of different typologies of pebbles on beaches". Proceedings of IEEE RFID/TA 2011, IEEE International Conference on RFID-Technologies and Applica‐

[13] Schneider J., Hegglin R, Meier S., Turowski J.M., Nitsche M. and Rickenmann D. Studying sediment transport in mountain rivers by mobile and stationary RFID an‐ tennas. In River Flow 2010, Dittrich, Koll, Aberle & Geisenhainer (eds), Bundesan‐

stalt für Wasserbau ISBN 978-3-939230-00-7, p. 1723-1730, 2010/09/01

The field of environmental monitoring probably opens the way to the widest range of possi‐ ble applications. Together with the geological applications concerning the sediments track‐ ing, RFID could also be useful for the monitoring of biological activities both is rivers and in the sea. The application concerning the tracking of pebbles has in fact suggested a possible extension for this technique. The pebbles recovered at the end of the experimentation pre‐ sented a lot of organic sediments left on them: this fact suggests then their possible use also as probes to analyse the impact of pollution on the biological activity of the portion of littor‐ al under study. This technique could also be extended to be employed in other scenarios where sediments tracking is required: a similar system could be for example deployed in the city of Venice to monitor the condition of the canals. In general, such a solution could be used in those water environments where the dynamics are slow enough to keep the tracers in an area small enough be manually scanned using a reader. In this sense, such a system could be used for example to analyse in detail the dynamics of a glacier.

Together with these possible applications, deriving from the existing systems, other pos‐ sible solutions could be studied every time that an under water monitoring or tracking system is required.


**4. Mismatch and variability properties**

The device mismatch is a key property to be known for the development of transistor compact models and the design of electronic circuits [58–60]. This section presents variability results obtained on FDSOI MOSFETs down to 4.2 K. To this end, an integrated on-chip matrix of individually addressable transistors has been used to increase the sample size statistics.

#### **4.1 Devices under test**

The measurements were performed on both N- and P-type transistors fabricated using the same 28 nm FDSOI technology as those described in **Section 2.1**. In order to provide statistical analysis on variability and mismatch at low temperature, matrices of transistors were produced with integrated addressability in an approach similar to [61]. An automated measurement system was implemented thanks to the on-chip multiplexed arrangement. The device chips were wire-bonded on a chip carrier connected to a printed circuit board (PCB) and mounted on a dipstick to reach 4.2 K in a liquid helium bath. Each die comprises 512 matched pairs of MOSFETs (256 pairs of RVT plus 256 pairs of LVT) addressable through 10-bits selection (210 = 1024 transistors).

#### **4.2 Threshold voltage variability**

**Figure 17** shows typical drain current Id(Vg) characteristics for short channel Ntype MOS transistors, at 300 K and at 4.2 K. Twenty four devices were measured for each MOS type at low drain voltage (|Vd| = 50 mV) to illustrate device variability. In **Figure 18** the logarithmic scaled Id(Vg) emphasizes the subthreshold oscillation variability at low and high drain voltage (Vd = 50 mV and 0.9 V), at 4.2 K. The oscillations observed in the subthreshold current are a known signature of short channel MOSFETs operating at deep cryogenic temperatures, and could result from the presence of impurities in the channel [63, 64]. The threshold voltage was

*Low Temperature Characterization and Modeling of FDSOI Transistors for Cryo CMOS… DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.98403*

#### **Figure 17.**

*Id*(*Vg) curves for 24 short channel (L = 28 nm) N-type LVT MOSFETs at 4.2 K and 300 K, at Vd = 50 mV. After Cardoso et al. [62].*

#### **Figure 18.**

*Id(Vg) curves for 24 short channel (L = 28 nm) N-type LVT MOSFETs at 4.2 K, at Vd = 50 mV and 0.9 V. After Cardoso et al. [62].*

extracted following the constant current criterion, at Id = 10�7 W/L (A). Such current level represents the standard value used for Vth extraction, and it is well above the region where the oscillations are mainly identified, as highlighted in **Figure 18** by a dashed line.

**Figure 19** shows the Pelgrom plots of the standard deviation of ΔVth, σΔVT, for NMOS devices (similar results have been obtained for PMOS). It can be seen that σΔVT well follows the area scaling linear dependence with respect to 1/ ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi W*:*L p at 4.2 K, as it is the case at 300 K, for all channel dimensions explored in this study (1 μm ≤ L ≤ 28 nm, 80 nm ≤ W ≤ 25 μm). This result does not reveal any specific variation with channel width and channel length due to e.g. line edge roughness (LER) for such geometries. From 300 K to 4.2 K, the extracted linear slopes, ΔσΔVT/Δ(1/ ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi W*:*L p ), indicates that the threshold voltage mismatch performance degrades by ≈25% for NMOS and PMOS, at |Vd| = 50 mV, when temperature is decreased from 300 K down to 4.2 K. Since the metal gate granularity and the local charges in the gate dielectric are the main sources of threshold voltage variability in FDSOI technology [65], the slight increase of σΔVT at 4.2 K may likely be attributed to the increase of interface charge density [63]. Moreover, in **Figure 19**, it can be seen that short channel MOSFETs (L = 28 nm) exhibit higher threshold voltage variability at high drain bias (Vd = 0.9 V), which could be due to Drain Induced Barrier Lowering (DIBL).

**Figure 19.**

*Pelgrom plot of threshold voltage variability σΔVT for NMOS at Vd = 50 mV and 0.9 V, 4.2 K (left) and 300 K (right). After Cardoso et al. [62].*

**Figure 20** shows the threshold voltage individual mismatch parameter, AΔVT = σΔVT*:* ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi W*:*L p , plotted as a function of 1/ ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi W*:*L p , for 28 nm FDSOI transistors studied in this work and 40 nm bulk MOSFETs from [61], at 300 K and 4.2 K. Despite AΔVT degradation at low temperature, FDSOI remains highly competitive compared to bulk technology, mainly due to the suppression of random dopant fluctuation (RDF) induced variability in FDSOI. In **Figure 20**, it can also be observed that AΔVT does not exhibit higher values for the short channel MOSFETs (i.e. high 1/ ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi W*:*L p values), for which subthreshold oscillations have been observed at low temperature (**Figure 18**). This means that such oscillations do not have a significant impact on the threshold voltage variability, mainly because they occur below the drain current level where the threshold voltage is extracted, as discussed before.

#### **Figure 20.**

*AΔVT versus 1/* ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi W*:*L p *for NMOS, at Vd = 50 mV, 4.2 K and 300 K. dashed lines indicate the extracted linear slope values from the Pelgrom plots. Dotted lines show typical 40 nm bulk CMOS technology data [61]. After Cardoso* et al*. [62].*

*Low Temperature Characterization and Modeling of FDSOI Transistors for Cryo CMOS… DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.98403*

### **4.3 Drain current variability**

The drain current variability, σ(ΔId/Id), has also been directly measured on the 28 nm FDSOI transistors studied here and their variations with gate voltage overdrive are shown in **Figure 21** for 300 K and 4.2 K. As is usual, σ(ΔId/Id) is maximized below threshold before to decrease in strong inversion, where it might slightly increase again due to the contribution of access resistance Rs variability [66]. Actually, these variations can be very well fitted by the model of Eq. (5) developed for room temperature:

$$
\sigma \left(\frac{\Delta \mathbf{I\_d}}{\mathbf{I\_d}}\right)^2 = \left(\frac{\mathbf{g\_m}}{\mathbf{I\_d}}\right)^2 . \sigma\_{\Delta \text{VT}}\,^2 + \left(\mathbf{1} - \mathbf{g\_d}\,\mathbf{R\_s}\right)^2 . \sigma\_{\Delta \theta/\theta}\,^2 + \mathbf{g\_d^2} . \sigma\_{\Delta \text{Rs}}\,^2 \tag{5}
$$

where gm is the transconductance and gd is the output conductance. In this model, the drain current variability is controlled by three matching parameters related respectively to the threshold voltage, σΔVT, the gain factor σΔβ/β (β = W/L. Cox.μ0, with μ0 being the low-field carrier mobility) and to the access resistance σΔRs. Typical matching parameters extracted from the drain current modeling, as well as their respective contributions are summarized in **Figure 22**. It indicates that there is a slight degradation of variability at low temperature and that the matching

#### **Figure 21.**

*Measured and modeled σ(ΔId/Id) variations with Vgt = Vg-Vth. σΔRs varies from 0 to 8% of Rs = 377 Ω.μm (T = 300 K) and 266 Ω.μm (T = 4.2 K). After Cardoso* et al*. [45].*

#### **Figure 22.**

*Summary of matching performance and respective parameter contributions at 300 K (RT) and 4.2 K (LT) for NMOS (W = 1.39 μm, L = 28 nm). After Cardoso et al. [45].*

is mainly dominated by threshold voltage variability in weak inversion and by gain factor and access resistance mismatch at strong inversion.


(Nocos 2017)

Though not the focus of this paper, I mention Singh here because he is the most publicly recognized Sikh in Canada at the moment and is understood as being very fashionable in his Sikh expression. In Singh's case, we can come to see how Sikh chic directly impacts the political sphere at the federal level in Canada. It is important to acknowledge that these experiences and events have not had a homogenous response. Making the Khalsa aesthetic fashionable in the 21st century is a religio-politicized response to the broader systemic barriers Khalsa Sikhs have faced in public life. It is merely one strategy in a multi-pronged approach in the politics of recognition and representation for Sikhs in the diaspora, on the one hand, and contributes to a modern mainstreaming of the Khalsa Sikh identity in the diaspora, on the other. These religio-political responses are rooted in an understanding of core Sikh values including *seva* (selfless community service), *sarbat da ballah* (the well-being of others), and *miri piri* (the non-dualism and integration of spirituality and politics in daily life). These core Sikh values have operated as a framework for Sikh engagement in volunteerism (in and beyond the gurdwara); politics, social activism, and philanthropy, as I suggest, also function as a guide for millennial Sikh entrepreneurs and values-based business (Desjardins and Desjardins 2009; Dusenbery and Tatla 2009; Jakobsh and Walton-Roberts 2016).

#### **3. Sikh Values-Based Fashion Enterprises**

Sikhs of the millennial generation are making innovative social, political, and economic contributions to establishing new modes of religious expression. Numerous second- and third-generation Sikhs are translating their religious and social values into new cultural productions that engage the economic domain, such as the fashion industry. From becoming multi-billion-dollar YouTube sensations (for example, Lilly Singh; See Bhagat 2016) to designing floral printed turbans, young Sikh entrepreneurs are expressing their religious identity, principles, and moral positions in the free market. In establishing new modes of religious expression in the form of innovative solutions to society's most persistent and complex social and environmental problems, young adult Sikhs are striving to create social change at varying scales.

Although seemingly commonplace initiatives, some scholars of religion argue that it is precisely in creating and participating in such socio-economic activities/activism that religious adherents may demonstrate faith as living practice. In other words, actions reflect guiding religious principles that are imbued with personal meaning and that impact their own spiritual lives (Bender 2003; McGuire 2008). While the ways in which millennial Sikhs engage the socio-economic sphere are extensive, the ventures discussed in this paper emerge specifically at the intersection of religion, fashion, design, feminism, and values-based entrepreneurship—or what is also referred to as social entrepreneurship.

Defining values-based business and social entrepreneurship has been a task taken up by both practitioners and researchers. While there is contention in defining these terms, scholars and practitioners alike recognize that these ventures are situated at the cross-sector of the public and private domains, operating within the social economy. In contrast to business entrepreneurship that maintains a bottom-line of financial gain alone, the bottom line of social entrepreneurship is threefold: financial, social, and environmental—where every e ffort is fostered and focused on the social mission of the initiative, and profits are mainly reinvested into the program. What is valued by such enterprises is the socio-political benefit their ventures provide, rather than simply achieving economic stability or profit. Religion is one of many major thematic ideologies that continue to inform values-driven entrepreneurship (Spear 2010, p. 32). In faith-based social entrepreneurship, guiding principles held by religious entrepreneurs motivate and align with the call-to-action and mission that are characteristic of values-based entrepreneurship. Sikh values such as *seva*, *sarbat da ballah*, and *miri pir* (as defined above) function as guiding principles for Sikh entrepreneurship, as noted earlier.

An underlying aspect of the functions of Sikh chic is that young Sikh fashion entrepreneurs believe that it is possible to create shifts in the public perception of Sikhs and broader socio-political change by engaging the (digital) market. The production of the Khalsa Sikh aesthetic in the modern fashion and accessory industry by Sikh entrepreneurs is framed and legitimized by Sikh values, and perhaps is another case through which to critically explore "a Sikh spirit of capitalism" (Mooney 2012, p. 422). McQuilten discusses how creative social enterprises, such as art- and fashion-enterprises, function as means for critical and political engagement with the socio-economic sphere (McQuilten 2017). She points out that "[o]f equal importance to the economic dimension of social enterprise is that these types of organizations provide, other non-monetary benefits for the artists involved, including the opportunity to make art, a space in which to explore and address issues of cultural identity in a changing global context, as well as skill development and participation in civic life" (McQuilten 2017, p. 71). McQuilten goes on to say that "[t]his generation of artistic and social value links to a range of other cultural movements emerging as counter-hegemonic practices such as the maker movement, ethical consumption, craft and social engaged art." Inclusive of McQuilten's argument, the cases to be discussed in this article also demonstrate the ways fashion enterprises become a means through which religious individuals can engage with the politics of religious and gender identity production,

intrareligious dynamics, and cultural representation while using current technologies and trends of the market. It is imperative for a fashion social enterprise to address complex societal problems within and beyond the fashion industry. That said, Sikh fashion social enterprises may not only address Sikh issues, but may also address broader social, political, economic, and environmental concerns. Sikh values frame the ways in which Sikh fashion entrepreneurs engage contemporary commodity discourses. For example, we can see the intertwining of Khalsa Sikh aesthetics, Sikh environmental justice, and anti-plastic commodity discourse in Turban&Beard selling of plastic-free bamboo kangas. Participating in the free market as social innovators, young Sikhs continue to expand the parameters of what constitutes as *Sikhi* in practice and the role their faith has in social change. Young Sikh social entrepreneurs are not satisfied with the status quo, but rather look for a deeper meaning and creative engagement within their everyday lives, work, and social contexts.

#### **4. "Feminizing the Khalsa": New Market Segments of Sikh Chic**

It is important to note that gender constructs are subjective, as is Sikh identity, and there is "no single way of being a Sikh. Punjabi Sikhs frequently move between di fferent sub-identities according to their situation in life ... A mona ['clean-shaven'] Sikh of yesterday could be a *keshadhari* ['unshorn'] today and might be an *amridhari* ['those who have performed the Khalsa enthronement ceremony'] tomorrow ... Therefore, to think of the five categories of Sikhs as 'predetermined' or 'fixed' permanently ... might be misleading" (Singh 2018, p. 263). Despite this diversity, it is still the Khalsa Sikh male donning the 5 ks and the turban that functions as the primary and normative identity marker of "being Sikh", centering the lived experiences of Sikh males for reasons stated earlier in this discussion (Jakobsh 2015a). Without question, the authoritative Khalsa Sikh male identity has been largely reproduced in the fashion industry by Sikh male fashion entrepreneurs—by way of visual representation and by name. For example, many of the Sikh fashion entrepreneurs have named their fashion brands with some sort of play on words with the Sikh name Singh (lion), most commonly given to Sikh males (Jakobsh 2014, p. 595). Acknowledging this phenomenon begs the question: how are Sikh women being represented in the Sikh chic industry and by Sikh fashion entrepreneurs?

The limits on the discussions about Sikh chic and the focus on the Khalsa Sikh male aesthetic has more to do with the cases that scholars have focused on in their analysis than what is actually reflected in the market today. While Reddy gives us a strong theoretical foundation to understand Sikh chic, the Sikh chic industry has expanded and grown exponentially into a global, transnational, and digital phenomenon. The commodification of the Khalsa Sikh identity via fashion entrepreneurs has influenced how young Sikhs of all genders purchase, wear, and talk about the 5 ks in the 21st century. As the Sikh chic industry has grown in influence and as young Sikhs continue to participate in the modern economy as fashion entrepreneurs, new niche market segments have formed. So too have new ways of understanding how Sikh identity, values, and commodity discourses intertwine in the free marketplace and how they have become more salient. A discussion about all of the new possible market segments of Sikh chic would be far too extensive to outline in this article. Instead, I will focus on the ways in which young Sikh women in Canada are challenging the mainstream representations of a masculine Sikh identity, by creating fashion designs dedicated to celebrating the Khalsa Sikh female aesthetic, in all of its forms.

In her article "Feminizing the Khalsa: Text, narrative, and image within the virtual realm", Doris Jakobsh discusses the ways in which "a small minority" of Sikh women are responding to the notion that "Sikh women have not 'represented' Sikhs and Sikhism" (Jakobsh 2015a, p. 190). While the Khalsa Sikh identity has been often represented by men, young Sikh women are challenging the mainstream representation of a masculine Sikh identity (Jakobsh 2012, 2015a, 2015b). Drawing from Anastasia Karaflogka and Peter Mandaville, Jakobsh makes the case that the internet easily allows for new spaces to be created in which subjective Sikh discourse about identity can take place (Jakobsh 2015a, p. 191). She examines "the online discourse surrounding the question of Sikh women's identity, particularly with regard to women and turbans" in spaces such as websites, blogs, web archives, and online chat rooms (p. 192). I suggest that the free market is another avenue in which the subjective religious can operate and that the fashion industry is another platform within which we see young Sikh women attempting to "feminize the Khalsa" (Jakobsh 2015a).

One possibility may be due to the new digital marketplace. In a neoliberal context and given the growth of the creative digital/craft gig-economy, several e-commerce platforms for digital stores and retail-point-of-sales systems have developed that help facilitate small businesses and pop-up shops, making it easier for independent artist to sell their products online. A few major examples include Shopify, Etsy, and Square. Such online platforms are marketed to millennials who perhaps may have multiple sources of income or side-hustles, including their own small shop, but still are unable to a fford to open up an in-person store. Whether one is successful or not, it has become much easier to create a low-risk online store. In Canada, for instance, there are several female Sikh fashion entrepreneurs who have created online shops to sell their designs for Sikh women.

The creation of new fashion lines dedicated to the needs of Sikh women who don the 5ks segments the turban market, reaching potentially new audiences, and is perhaps reflective of a growing demand as more Sikh women are wearing turbans. However, it is important to note that while there is a general increase in the number of women wearing turbans in the diaspora, it is still the case in Canada that it is not the norm for Sikh women to wear the turban.

Jakobsh identifies themes in online discourse around Sikh women's identity: seeking legitimacy, the search for historical validation, and meaning-making in the feminization of the turban (Jakobsh 2015a). In the feminization of the Sikh chic market, I suggest that the discourse around Sikh female identity is translated in the marketing of fashion brands and the production of gendered Khalsa attire and ad campaigns. For example, one of the ways Sikh female identity is represented in the marketplace is by the use of the Sikh female name Kaur (princess) for business and/or product names, in contrast to the many Sikh male fashion icons and designers who brand their businesses with a play-on-words of the name Singh (lion), as mentioned earlier. Sikh fashion designed for female turbaned Sikhs contributes to the movement to make Sikh women more visible.

For the three Canadian-based Sikh fashion enterprises that make up the case studies for this discussion, I argue that their designs and fashion enterprises intertwine Sikh values, fashion, and business, while engaging discourses around gender equality and Kaurhood/sisterhood, authenticity and self-determined representation, intersectionality, diversity, and, in some cases, ethical purchasing.

#### **5. Case Studies: Canadian-Based Sikh Female Fashion**

#### *5.1. Kundan Paaras (Instagram: @KundanPaaras)*

Originally based in Toronto, Kundan Paaras is a fashion line designed by Sikh women, for Sikh women, which has become an international brand that is available in London and New York. The Sikh female designers—Laveleen and Gagan Kaur—are almost inseparable best friends—or "two sisters", as they often refer to themselves. Lavleen and Gagan have designed a couture-like brand, all handmade and custom tailored to fit their buyers. They draw inspiration from their ancestral roots in Punjab and their travels, including their residence in Korea. On their website store—which has recently been removed from Shopify (though they still have an active tumblr account: https://kundanpaaras-blog.tumblr.com/)—they state that their designs are inspired from "the majestic royal courts of the Punjab" as well as "contemporary silhouettes of Asia". In total, they have managed to create three di fferent collections, all modeled by young Sikh women who are often their own friends.

On 30 November 2013, they launched their first Fall/Winter collection and hosted a fashion show at the National Ballet School in downtown Toronto, which I attended. Their first collection was modeled only by young Sikh women, some of whom were donning stylized elements of the 5ks and uniquely designed turbans that matched their clothing designs. The mandate of the designers of Kundan Paraas was reflected in their support of other prominent Sikh millennial female artists from the Greater Toronto Area, who collaborated in organizing the event and performed during the fashion show. While none

of these artists wore the turban, they did maintain other elements of the 5 ks, including kesh and their kara. Some of the Sikh female artists who performed included the now-famous spoken-word poet Rupi Kaur; Keerat Kaur, a multi-media artist and singer; and singer Selena Dhillon. While in the audience, I got the impression that, as a collective, this network of young Sikh women was establishing their presence as a new generation of leaders. Each audience member was given a small fashion look book that included a biography listing of each of the Sikh women who helped put the show together, including make-up artists, hair stylists, and the DJ, emphasizing not only the strong network being established in the region, but also how the fashion show functioned as a platform of recognition of the creative entrepreneurial spirit of this network. In another way, the designers of Kundan Paaras maintain a transnational sense of this Kaurhood in that ten percent of the proceeds from ticket sales from the fashion show were donated to widowed women's programming in Punjab.

The central message the designers hope to convey in their designs and shows is that the turban or dastaar is a royal crown. They emphasize that young Sikh women should be proud of their identities and the ways in which they express their individual religiosity, declaring their intentions on their website through statements such as "Sikhi & the Royal Crown: The Dastaar. This is our pulse: Young Sikh women proudly living and thriving, with their Sikhi loudly displayed on their head and body. Kundan Paaras celebrates the Sikh armour and Sikh women in all their righteousness. From their hair on your body, to the dastaar on your head, wear your identity with pride sistas, and remember, you were born a queen." For Lavleen and Gagan Kaur, creating Kundan Paaras is an "exploration of spirituality, politics, travel and the arts".

#### *5.2. Trendy Singh (Instagram: @TrendySingh)*

A collaborative project between a group of friends living in Calgary, Alberta, TrendySingh designs and sells printed turbans online with a signature floral print design. TrendySingh claims to be a social enterprise and is the only company of its sort in the region (Asian Heritage Foundation n.d.). Social enterprises, or values-based business, is a third-way approach to the private–public spheres of society, where generating profit—though necessary to fund such initiatives—comes second to meeting the social needs of citizens (Quarter et al. 2009). Rooted in Sikh values of *seva* (selfless community service) and equality, TrendySingh engages discourses around gender equality, as well as ethical purchasing. For designer and business manager, Jenn Nguyen, starting a fashion social enterprise based on Sikh values is a reflection of her own deep admiration for the Sikh faith, and her Sikh friends. When I spoke with Nguyen in an interview, she said that while she did not grow up in the Sikh faith, the fact that "Sikh" is defined as learner, deeply resonated with her own religious upbringing as a Catholic, and she has invested significant time in learning about the Sikh faith, engaging in Sikh practices, and becoming involved in Sikh institutions as a volunteer.

A significant aspect of TrendySingh's designs is that their printed turbans are presented as gender neutral, carrying the same designs for Kaurs and Singhs. After discussing the ideation process behind the fashion enterprise with Nguyen, she mentioned to me that the initial reason she designed a floral printed turban was because many of her Sikh friends were experiencing discrimination in every day public spaces, such as on their daily bus commute, and that the floral turbans could act as an ice breaker for onlookers, perhaps encouraging strangers to ask questions about the turban (Interview). In an interview with an online culture magazine, Nguyen states, "There are so many misconceptions and racism towards Sikhs, especially after 9/11. People associate them with terrorists and that type of thing ... the turban represents standing up for oppression, and I believe that is universal for everyone" (Vern Magazine 2018).

Nguyen also mentioned that her initial designs were meant for her female Sikh friends who felt their needs were not being met and that their experiences were being underrepresented. Holding degrees in art design, business management, and education, Nguyen did some market research and realized that the contemporary turban fashion market was primarily targeting turbaned Sikh males. Nguyen expressed an understanding that, while not all Sikhs wear turbans, those who do, are mostly Sikh males. However, in marketing the printed turbans, Nguyen wanted to promote gender neutrality. As such, both Sikh men and Sikh women are presented as wearing the turbans on TrendySingh's website (which has since been removed from the internet) and social media profiles. Nguyen made it clear that presenting a more gender-neutral look was more in-line with Sikh egalitarian principles. TrendySingh has also produced a series of instructional videos on how to tie a turban in various ways that reflect current trends and has used Sikh male and female models as the instructors. These videos can be found on YouTube and Instagram. That being said, in the various ways TrendySingh markets itself, it also contributes to the production and circulation of *Sikhi* in the digital marketplace.

As a social enterprise, TrendySingh donates all earnings to pre-existing Sikh services, including Khalsa Aid, Sikh Relief, Nanak Naam, and the World Sikh Organization. In this regard, not only is the production of these printed turbans an act of *seva*, according to Nguyen, the purchasing of them is also an act of *seva*, as customers will be contributing to Sikh social services. For Nguyen, choosing to create a social enterprise is a more ethical approach to engaging the market, and she emphasizes that the priority should be on Sikh values, providing service to the Sikh community, and representing the Sikh community in the best way.

#### *5.3. Jasmin Kaur (Instagram: @Jusmun)*

Unlike Kundan Paaras and TrendySingh, which are both fashion brands, my third case study is a cultural creative by the name of Jasmin Kaur, who resides in British Columbia.  While Jasmin holds a diverse portfolio, it is her design of a collection of graphic print t-shirts that caught my attention on my perusal of Instagram. Jasmin Kaur sells her t-shirts on RedBubble.com (https://www.redbubble.com/people/jusmun/shop), a website dedicated to selling works of independent artists. A few of her graphic print illustrations depict individual Sikh women wearing colorful turbans. Several of her designs have slogans such as "decolonize your body", "decolonize your femininity", and "the diversity of sisterhood". One of Jasmin Kaur's most circulated illustrations is of three young Sikh women standing together—each with di fferent characteristics, including di fferent skin tones. One is wearing a colorful dastaar, while another has her hair in braids. One of the Sikh women in the illustration is holding a baseball bat, and one is wearing a sports jersey. Above the illustration is the caption "Support your sister".

During an interview with Jasmin Kaur, she said that the inspiration behind her illustrations was to challenge the cliques that have been forming around the way young Sikh women choose to practice their *Sikhi*. The illustration described above reflects the idea that while not all Sikh women may look like her, i.e., wear a turban or keep their *kesh*, nonetheless, they are her Sikh sisters, and they should have each other's backs in a society that does not often support their existence (Interview). Kaur went on to say that her illustrations capture her desire to create spaces where Sikh women feel safe to be who they are, regardless of their identity and how they choose to practice their faith. As the "Support your sisters" image circulates online, via Kaur's Instagram and Twitter accounts, it is now often coupled with a poem of hers:

scream so that one day a hundred years from now another sister will not have to dry her tears wondering where in history she lost her voice (Jasmin Kaur)

In advocating for a Kaurhood through this image, Jasmin Kaur is also capturing the subjective: not all Sikh and not all Kaur experiences are the same. Similar to her co-religionists in this study, Kaur frames her lifestyle, professional activism, and creative pursuits like these graphic t-shirt illustrations, through her own understanding of Sikh feminist values that are rooted in the Sikh notion of *miri piri*. As Jasmin Kaur indicated, if the spiritual and political are intertwined, and Sikhs are required to stand up against injustice and help take care of others, then it is her duty to address the systemic oppressions in society and acknowledge the intersectional realities Sikh women experience. For Jasmin Kaur, the Sikh dastaar represents a long political history of Sikhs challenging corrupt leadership, but that often Sikh women's experiences are ignored both by Sikh men and broader society. According to Kaur, as Sikh women have not been as visible—both in not traditionally wearing the 5 ks, as well as not visible in Sikh institutional leadership roles—the stories and experiences of Sikh women are not often heard or represented.