Once you've selected and bought your traps, you'll need to bait them (with the exception of poison traps, which use the poison itself as bait.) Apply your bait to the designated spot on the trap according to any instructions provided with it. Typically, for snap traps, the bait will need to go on the flat "platform" that sits opposite the swinging arm. Glue traps, on the other hand, often have a peg in the middle that bait can sit on. Live traps usually have a similar platform for the bait in the center. Your bait should be a small, thimble sized amount of a food that's appetizing to rats — don't use too much or it will be easier for the rat to take it without springing the trap. Just a few common examples of rat bait are listed below:  Peanut butter Bacon or meat Most fruits and vegetables Cereals Commercial rat baits (available at hardware stores and online pest control retailers) One of the biggest tell-tale signs of a rat problem is the presence of small, brown, pellet-like droppings. Anywhere you find these droppings is an acceptable place to put a trap — if a rat has been there before, there's a good chance it will be there again. Take care when handling or cleaning rat droppings — certain illnesses, like Hantavirus, can be caused by accidentally ingesting or inhaling small particles from rat feces. Wear gloves and a face mask when disposing of rat droppings and be sure to wash your hands when you've finished. For indoor rat problems, it's usually best to place traps directly next to walls and corners where rats (or rat droppings) have been spotted. Rats hate running out in the open where they can be seen easily, so putting rat traps in the middle of the floor is unlikely to warrant results unless they're in a location where you've specifically noticed rats before. If using snap traps, place the traps perpendicular to the wall so that the baited end is touching it. This forces the animals to touch the bait platform if they want to continue along the same path as they've been using before. Rats can be a...

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