Knits are intimidating to many people, but when I first learned how to sew I was determined to master them. "If I can't make a t-shirt, what's the point?" I thought. Now, knits are my absolute favorite, and I LOVE sewing them. Along the way, I've learned a lot of ways to finish knits, and I thought it would be helpful to do a series of mini-tutorials on that topic. After all, the finishing details are what can make or break a project! Believe it or not, all the garments in the above photo have a different neckline finish! To be clear, when I discuss "finishing" a knit, I am referring to a neckline, armhole, sleeve, or hem. I'm NOT referring to seam allowances.

Today we'll start with the most common finish, what I will call a knit band. A band is appropriate for almost any opening in a knit garment, with the exception of a waistband, where you would need elastic to overcome gravity. The ever-popular Renfrew pattern by Sewaholic is an example of a t-shirt which is finished with bands on the sleeves, hem, and neck. The bands can be any width, from a tiny 1/4"... Summer PJs

...to a medium-wide 1"... Fly Fly Away t-shirt

...to a very wide hem band... The length of the band is generally slightly smaller than the opening to which it is attached. The exact dimensions are usually given in the pattern (or there is a specific pattern piece), but the length may need to be adjusted based on the amount of stretch in the fabric. A very stretchy knit like ribbing can be cut a lot smaller and be stretched to fit as you apply it.

So how do you apply it? Cut the piece as directed by your pattern. WRONG sides together, fold your piece in half with the long raw edges together. Press. At this point, there are two methods for attaching. The first is called "in the flat" and the second "in the round". Either method can be done with a sewing machine or serger.

"In the flat" means that the garment opening is not a complete circle, for example one shoulder seam isn't sewn in a neckline, or the underarm seam hasn't been done yet. You align the start of the band with the start of your opening, apply equal stretch to the band along the opening, and sew.

"In the round" means that the opening is a complete circle, for example a closed neckline or finished sleeve. The band is also sewn in a circle and then pinned evenly around the opening.

In the flat: Raw edges are aligned Band stretched slightly and applied to "flat" neckline Sew open shoulder seam closed

When sewing in the flat, I tend not to use pins except at the beginning and the end (if that). I use my hands to control the stretch as I go. This is definitely a method that benefits from experience. After sewing a lot of knits, you can tell how well the band is stretching (too much or too little) and adjust as you go.

In the round: Sew the short ends closed, RST Press in half again

When sewing in the round, you use pins to "quarter-mark" both the band and the opening. Place pins at the center-front, center-back, and halfway between each. Do the same with the band, then match the two. This allows you to evenly stretch the band between each quarter as you sew. Band quarter-pinned Garment quarter-pinned Align the two, then sew Whether you are sewing in the flat or in the round, be sure to steam press (for real, use steam!) after sewing. Knits tend to ripple, but the waviness almost always comes out with a vigorous steam pressing. Also be careful to stretch the band only, NOT the garment fabric.

My personal preference is to sew in the flat (with a serger). I find quarter-marking to be tedious, and my results to be better with flat application. However, I highly recommend practicing both methods, as some situations require an in-the-round approach.

Once your band is applied, you have the option to topstitch it or not. If your band is very narrow, the seam allowances may flip out and be visible from the exterior. In that situation, you would want to topstitch just under the band, catching the seam allowances, so they stay in place. You can see the topstitching on the sleeve portion of this pajama shirt I made for my daughter: A popular ready-to-wear look is to topstitch both above and below the band: Tonic Tee

This can be done with a wide twin-needle, a coverstitch machine, or two rows of parallel stitching. On the shirt in the above photo, I used my coverstitch machine.

Many people will tell you to topstitch knits with a zig-zag or stretch stitch. Confession: I almost never do that. I don't care for how it looks (except on childrenswear) and I have a hard time producing a neat result. I prefer to lengthen my straight stitch and topstitch like I would on a woven. The exception would be with a very narrow opening that must stretch over something much larger, like the hem on a pair of leggings that has to stretch over my big fat foot. Another exception would be a crew neck t-shirt which has a narrow head opening.

So there you have it: applying a knit band! This is a great technique that I find myself using all the time, whether the pattern calls for it or not. It's much easier than hemming if your knit is slinky and won't behave. If you're ready to give it a try, I recommend the Renfrew, or for kids, the Alex & Anna Summer PJs by Peek-a-Boo Pattern Shop (affilliate link, pattern used in samples above). For a free option, try the Tonic Tee download from SBCC.

Check back next week for part two: finishing with a binding.
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