Just keep sweeping the remaining line into the dustpan.

It'll shrink more and more each time you sweep it, until in the end there's nothing left of it.

It also helps to change the angle of sweeping each time; that way, what was a long line becomes a shorter line relative to the new angle of direction.

Just blow it back around the floor and pretend it never happened.

If a rug is available, traditionally you would sweep it under the rug.

Explanation: if it's not enough dust to sweep up it's not enough to care about.

I don't have any citations for this.

It's a technique I came up with myself

and I haven't documented it anywhere else.

Maybe someone else has covered it, I can update if needed.

This is a widely known lifehack.

Use masking tape - just tape the front of the dustpan to the floor.

It should cover the gap between the floor and your dustpan.

(Image taken from this Reddit thread .)

I use a hand held vac on the small particles of dust that won't sweep up.

My mother always dampened a paper towel and wiped up the dust that way.

Either is logical and works perfectly.

move the dustpan backwards when sweeping the last few bits into it.

I've done this for years and it helps greatly.

2-3 of those usually gets it all.

Modern dustpans have evolved a compliant rubber lip that already assists with this task.

Using a feathered bristle brush with light downward pressure also moves the dust sideways over the lip instead of down and under the lip.

The bristle type I mean is illustrated in this car washing brush but common these days on those sold with dustpans as well.

As a computer guy, I realized that the remaining dust is an exponential problem.

This realization would have been bad for a mathematician: It means that true cleanliness can only ever be approached, never reached.

Alas, I am an engineer, and for me exponential decay is very good news.

It means that I can get the amount down a lot with just a little persistence; and where a mathematician only has an infinite featureless floor, I have djechlin's carpet which will take care of the rounding errors.

The underlying observation was that even versus the end of the "shoveling-into-the-dust-pan-process", each sweep does move a certain fraction of the dust into the dust pan, which is of course the reason for exponential reduction.

As an engineer I'm bound to link practice and math.

On the practical side, the removed fraction can be increased by: Moving the dust pan an inch or two backward each time to expose any dust that got under the lip before, and to give the dust space to "jump up" a bit into the pan; tilting the pan forward a little so that the rubber lip is nestled better against the floor, leaving a smaller gap for dust to go into; sweeping in a more "upward" movement, rolling the hand brush around its handle axis.

In this fashion I sweep half a dozen or a dozen times in quick succession, each time moving the pan back a little, each time catching another fraction of the remaining dust.

The operation only takes a few seconds and needs maybe one or two feet of space.

Because my floor is not featureless I can take advantage of seams and gaps where they are available.

On the math side of engineering we can estimate the remaining amount of dust after n sweeps:

Even if each sweep only removes 20% of the dust, i.e. 80% of the dust remain, then each three sweeps halve the remaining dust; 12 sweeps reduce it exponentially to 0.8^12 = 0.06, or 6%.

That is often good enough to move on to djechlin's strategy ;-).

lifehacks.stackexchange.com/users/10532/Peter - Reinstate Monica

Sand the edge of the dustpan down to a knife's edge.

Reason the the bigger stuff gets swept up and the fine dust doesn't, is the edge of the dustpan is dull and rounded.

You need to sand it down to a point so that it meets the floor like >← and not like )

← As an added bonus, if you're ever attacked by burglars or isis or whatever while you're sweeping the floor, you can take out their carotid artery with your sharpened dustpan.

As an added added bonus (bonus x2), you'll be able to sweep up the entirety of your attacker's mess without leaving behind those annoying last few lines.

A sheet of paper can serve as a makeshift dustpan.

Hold it in the middle on one of the long sides, giving it a slight crease with your thumb.

When applied with gentle pressure, and at a rather steep angle, the leading edge should hold true to the floor.

No other technique using a broom can get more dust into the 'pan' and less into the air.

Question: While cleaning up my room with a broomstick, I use the dustpan to collect dust and garbage, but those last lines of dust don't go into the dustpan. That's why I have to leave it there.  How do I get the last lines of dust into the dustpan?

How do I get the last lines of dust into the dustpan?

To get the last remaining lines of dust in the dustpan, you could simply keep sweeping until there's nothing left. It may also help to change the angle of sweeping each time. You could also consider taping the front of the dustpan to the floor. Alternatively, you could use a handheld vac or a damp paper towel to collect up the last remaining particles.

The options are to keep sweeping until the line disappears, blow the dust away around the floor (it's too little to care about), tape the dustpan to the floor to form a seal then brush it in, remove the dust with a vacuum or a wet towel, move backwards as you sweep, get a dustpan with a rubber lip, sharpen the dustpan lip using sandpaper or sweep the last of the dust onto a sheet of paper.

Keep sweeping and the line will gradually disappear.

Blow it back around the floor - it is too little to care about.

Tape the front of the dustpan to the floor to make a seal.

Remove the dust with a vacuum cleaner or a damp paper towel.

Move the dustpan backwards as you sweep and it will all go in.

Get a dustpan with a rubber lip which forms a better seal.

Sand down the edge of the dustpan so it meets the floor with no obstruction to the dust.

Sweep the last of the dust onto a sheet of paper.


When you pick up your cup, do it by the very bottom, and then use your pinkie to push whatever the cup is sitting on away from the cup.

You'll leave the napkin/coaster/placement on the table, and your cup will be in your hand.

Note that this works both right- and left-handed (try it; it's hard to pick up a cup with your pinkie on top).

Get into the habit of picking it up by tilting it slightly first.

The seal then breaks at the side that lifts first, and the mat doesn't stick.

Sprinkle a little salt or other small solid particles on the mat before using it.

This can prevent the seal from forming between the condensation/residual moisture and allows you to freely use the cup until it's all dissolved.

Don't let yourself get in the situation from the start.

I'm sure you must have a something... a tea-towel, handkerchief, tissue, kitchen roll, trouser-leg, etc.

near to hand.

Dab the bottom of the cup before you leave the kitchen.

Your mat will look nicer for longer too.

there's nothing worse than a sticky old place-mat, that the owner doesn't notice...

yet everyone else does.

Add weights to the placemat, or use a heavier placemat.

For example, you could glue a small tile to the bottom of a rectangular placemat to weigh it down.

I always make a point of placing the cup so that one very small part of the rim is OFF the placemat, then there's an air gap and no vacuum by which to lift the placemat with the cup.

Question: If I ever have a drink and there is a bit of moisture on the bottom of the cup, then it sticks to the placemat, often without me knowing.  Then when I lift the cup up to take a drink, the placemat lifts up as well. Sometimes I notice, and it's just annoying, other times it will fall on the floor or in my food.  How can I prevent this?

How to stop cups sticking to placemats

There are number of ways to avoid this problem, one of which is to pick up the cup in such a way that you can use your pinkie to push the placemat away from the cup. You could also pick up the cup by tilting it slightly first or use a heavier placement. To avoid the situation developing in the first place, you could sprinkle a little salt on the placemat first, place the cup so that a very small part of the rim is off the placement, or dab the bottom of your cup before you leave the kitchen.

The options are to pick up the cup from the bottom and push the mat away with your little finger, tilt the cup slightly as you pick it up, sprinkle some salt on the mat before using it, Wipe the bottom of the cup before leaving the kitchen, use a heavier mat or leave a bit of the rim of the cup off the mat.

Pick the cup up from the bottom and push the coaster away with your little finger.

Tilt the cup slightly as you pick it up.

Sprinkle a little salt on the coaster before use.

Wipe the bottom of the cup before leaving the kitchen so that the stickiness never forms.

Place the cup so that a small part of the rim is off the mat.


I find that forcing yourself to yawn clears the effect.

A yawn stretches the muscles around the Eustachian tubes.

So, if the tubes are a bit blocked, they will open and your ear pressure will equalize.

As soon as you start to feel the effect in your ears, yawn.

I've used this trick for years now.

It is very simple and far more effective than swallowing or sucking mints.

There is also a simple trick that helps.

Inhale deep breathe

and then close your nose from exhaling air outside with your index finger and thumb and also close your mouth.

Then force out the air from your mouth and nose.

As there is no space for air to go outside, then will build a pressure near your ears.

This will reverse the effect caused due to air travels.

I fly 100,000+ miles each year.

My ears used to be a huge problem.

Now I don't have issues as often, but when I do...

here is what I try (in order): 1)

Gum (rarely works); drink hot water (as hot as I can without burning my mouth) 2) Force myself to yawn 3) Swallowing with my mouth open.

The key is that the jaw is in the open position.

4) Look "away" from the clogged ear (look left if it's the right ear, vice versa), and massage the area behind my ear as I yawn.

5) Hold my nose, and swallow.

Benzedrex -- nasal inhaler.

USE SPARINGLY -- read all directions.

Afrin if I can't find Benzedrex. 7) Hold my nose, close my mouth and "exhale" (Valsalva -- doesn't usually work for me either)

I will also sometimes take Advil and Sudafed before and during a flight if I am really concerned.

I tried Earplanes, but they actually made me vomit on ascent...

So, while a great idea, they are not for everyone!

I have a friend who uses noise-cancelling over-ear headphones.

She says they help "just enough" to slow the pressure differential.

Lastly, if you are really sensitive, you may need to be careful with what airplanes you fly.

Personally, I'm more prone to ear problems on Airbus planes.

The really long or short flights (7+ hours or less than 1 hour) rarely give me problems.

Good luck!

I'm someone who suffers these effects severely.

Unaided, the landing process is extremely painful.

A friend who has a similar experience when flying recommended a product named Earplanes.

They're earplugs that you put in before takeoff and remove after the cabin door is opened after landing.

They absorb the pressure change avoiding any discomfort.

My personal solution is to solve the problem that makes me intolerant of the pressure changes: sinus congestion.

For a 2-3 days before my flight, I take Sudafed (decongestant) per the directions up until my flight.

Then, during the flight, I use a decongestant nasal spray (like Afrin) 30 minutes before the flight begins it's descent.

This has consistently avoided pain for me and prevented the "plugged" sensation from persisting beyond the flight.

I thing that I always do

it carry little cotton with me and I plug that into my ears (especially when the plane takes off).

If I don't have cotton, another thing that helps me is listening to music via earphones.

You can use a chewing gum, though I have never tried that.

Take a bag of sweets and suck on one during takeoff.

My mom told me and my brothers to do this as kids and it always worked.

Question: One common problem which many of us must have faced in a plane is the sudden closure of sorts of the ear, especially while taking off.   How can one avoid that sometimes unbearable feeling? I have read that munching on something or plugging in earphones can possibly prevent the sensation. But what if I didn't bring food or earphones, and don't want to buy them?

Ear problems on aeroplane

There are a numbber of ways to combat this discomfort, but a popular one is to force yourself to yawn. Other methods include sucking on sweets, chewing gum or drinking hot water. There are also earplugs available which are intended to absorb the pressure change and reduce this discomfort. Decongestant nasal sprays may also be useful.

The options are to force yawning, try gum, drink hot water, swallow with mouth open, hold your nose and swallow, use Benzedrex (sparingly) or Afrin, hold nose and close mouth and then exhale, use noise-cancelling headphones, try Earplanes, consider flying in specific types of plane or suck on a sweet.

Try gum, drink hot water, force a yawn, swallow with mouth open, hold your nose and swallow, use Benzedrex (sparingly) or Afrin, hold nose and close mouth and then exhale, use noise-cancelling headphones or consider flying in specific types of plane.

Try Earplanes, take Sudafed anti-congestant for 2-3 days before flying and then a decongestant spray 30 minutes before landing.


If he carries a smart phone or tablet, that makes a fine place to install the Micro SD when it's not being used to transfer data to or from the school.

He's a good bit less likely to lose such a device than something smaller than a postage stamp, and he can actually use (some of) the information on the Micro SD while he's carrying it (say, on a school bus).

Use a case which is big enough not to get lost.

You can get small cases which are pretty much waterproof and you can often put a keyring through the case, so you can attach it to the lanyard.

I googled SD card case, and found a lot of pictures, (but all on commercial sites.)

Not a lifehack as such, but they do sell cases for sd cards which attach to your key ring or lanyards.

This will both protect the sd card, and if keys are attached make it easier to keep track of.

Edit:

We're not supposed to advertise specific cases, but here is a Google search returning multiple cases: micro sd keychain case

A case for the sd card could solve the problem (as Willeke suggested), but would require keeping track of it while using the sd card and putting the card back in each time.

Keeping

it permanently plugged into the computer

could work (as Zeiss Ikon suggested), but would require the laptop to have the proper port, and may fall out.

Now for my solution, use a device like this (not necessary the same brand): A small rubber band tightly wrapped around could help hold the card.

It is not very clear from the image, but it has a loop in the end to which a string can be attached.

The device is called a "USB 2.0 SD/MMC Memory Card Reader", and the web page

I found it on is http://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-usb-2-0-sd-mmc-memory-card-reader-black/3602009.p?skuId=3602009

If you have any contact lens case you can use that or I used to carry my sd card into an empty vapor-rub case as shown below.

Question: My son will be required to carry a micro SD card back and forth to ninth grade next year.  What can we put it in so it doesn't get lost or damaged?  (Extra challenge: He has ADHD.)  For a flash drive, we bought one with a little hole on one end.  We put a simple, sturdy key ring through the hole, and attached it to a lanyard.  That worked well.

How to carry *one* SD card in a crowded knapsack without losing it?

The best way to avoid losing an SD card in a crowded knapsack is probably to keep it inside something else which is bigger, such as a smart phone or tablet. Alternatively, you could buy a waterproof case with a keyring attached.

The options are to install the Micro SD in a smart phone or tablet or to use a case that is big enough not to get lost, for example a contact lens case.

Install the SD in a smart phone or tablet.

Use a case that is big enough not to get lost - there are plenty on the market.

Use a case for the sd card and wrap a rubber band around it to help hold the card.


Your question is "how to secure a monitor to a desk", but I believe the actual question should be "How do I prevent my monitor from falling off the desk".

One solution would be to attach it to the desk.

But another solution is to prevent the desk from being kicked.

You may be able to accomplish this by placing things on the floor around the legs, such as a potted plant on the floor.

You could also place the table against a wall, and put the back of a couch against one side.

(No one will walk through the couch!)

Another option is to get a more solid, heavy table that would move very little if accidentally kicked.

You could even reinforce your existing table to add weight to it.

A final option is to place the table against a wall, and mount the monitor to that wall.

It could be just a centimeter above the tabletop

so it is still at an ergonomic height for viewing.

There are 2 epoxy putty brackets, handshaped.

I put plastic wrap on monitor stand during shaping so putty would not leave residue.

Epoxy hardens in minutes.

Then plastic wrap can be removed.

C-clamped for easy moving, but could be screwed down.

Best easy and cheap solution is to find flat type thick ribbon/rope and nail to desk.

We have ships and as you guessed we have trouble with waves.

Our Crew on board found a solution for fixing notebooks,computers even monitors to desks.

It is also easy to remove if you want ; and you can find them from anywhere.

Also we used a professional solution for our general manager maybe you may be interested for that solution too here is the product we used : I hope it helps

You could use a Spring Clamp on the back of the stand to hold it to the desk:

These are ridiculously cheap to buy and they are useful in all sorts of ways.

If this won't work for some reason, you could basically adhere the stand to the desk by pressing a huge amount of blu-tack into the base and pressing it hard to the desk.

There are some semi-sticky gel pads, if you put them on a table, they stick to the table surface, can be easily removed without a trace by gently pulling for a couple of seconds, but if you try yanking it off quickly, that is really hard.

I saw such things in Japan used for that very purpose (preventing monitors etc.

falling off desks during earthquakes): just put 3~4 of them between the monitor base and the desk surface.

Don't know how they are called in English (or in any other language, for that matter), just google for something like "earthquake gel pads/shock proof pads".

Question: I want to prevent a computer monitor from falling, if the desk's legs are kicked or anything similar. The desk is relatively light.  I thought of simply drilling a hole through the base of the monitor and the desk and securing it that way. But besides being unsightly, I'm not sure that monitor bases are built for that kind of stress (if the desk is kicked).

Secure monitor to desk (from falling)

There are many different ways to prevent a monitor from falling from a desk. Epoxy putty brackets can be used to hold the monitor in place, as could rope or ribbon. Spring clamps and sticky gel pads could also do the trick.

The options are to prevent the desk from being kicked by placing things around it on the floor such as potted plants, place the desk against a wall, use epoxy putty brackets to hold it in place, nail some rope to the desk and tie it with that, use gel pads, use a spring clamp or use lots of blu-tack.

Prevent the desk from being kicked by placing things around it on the floor such as potted plants, or place it against a wall and with a sofa on one side (or mount the monitor on the wall) or reinforce the table to add weight to it.

Use epoxy putty brackets to hold it in place.

Nail some rope to a desk and use it to secure the monitor in place.

Use a spring clamp on the back of the stand or lots of blu-tack.

Use the sort of semi-sticky gel pads used to prevent monitors falling over in earthquakes.


They make small brushes for people with braces to get food out.

I have a small packet of these in my desk drawer because my phone ports have gotten pocket lint in them more than once.

The really expensive ones look like this, but you can get a much cheaper version from your local big box store.

You should be able to get the leaf fragment out with a straight pin, sewing needle, or similar tool.

Power down whatever device this is in before digging in there, just to avoid the possibility of a short circuit damaging something.

How about a vacuum cleaner?

If it still won't come out, wait until it is thoroughly dried, stick a toothpick inside to carefully crush, then vacuum out the crumbled leaf.

An air duster would probably work.

As has been previously mentioned, there is no connection to the inside of the phone so no danger of blowing debris into the electronics.

The very narrow jet of air when used with the tube will normally disturb this sort of thing.

Here in the UK, I normally buy them from a well-known chain of £1 shops - but they should be available at a higher price almost anywhere.

The other answers may work but I'm not sure how safe they are.

Cleaning out my phone's charge port

I learned of a safer cleaning device which worked great: a shaved down match stick.

Get a match stick made of wood (not the flimsy cardboard-tab match sticks, but the small wood stick match stick) and gently whittle its wooden end down on one side so it fits in the port.

This provides a not-so-pointy, somewhat-soft, solid object which you can use to scrape out dust and debris.

While it's gross, this is lifehacks so whatever: the easy way to get debris out of any small jack/port is to suck it out.

lifehacks.stackexchange.com/users/4544/R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE

I've had this problem for years with my old Nokia's power socket slowly filling with lint.

The fix is to power off the phone, and use a length of thin wire with the tiniest hook in the end, I use this to fish around the jack until a clump comes out.

A leaf might be a bit fragile, and the hook could break it up more than grab it.

Then try the suction trick to extract the smaller pieces.

If tiny pieces stay in the jack, there's a good chance they won't interfere.

Simply rotate the plug a few times to move the obstruction, and give it a shake now and then to dislodge smaller pieces.

In the past I have used products such as this which are very cheap and can be found online or in a local shops like PoundLand(UK):

Essentially this is just a can of compressed air with a straw attached combined with a scraping technique.

My technique is to blow the air into the headphone/charging port while using the straw to nudge/push the thing that is stuck in the port around until the turbulent air blows it out.

You don't have to buy the exact one in the image above - any can of compressed air will do.

Also be careful not to get any fluids in the port you're cleaning as some cheaper versions do let out a fine mist instead of pure air.

I've done this and similar operations in the past.

One option is to use a sewing needle/toothpick/bent paperclip to pick out the leaf from the front of the jack plug.

Remember to have your device turned off.

If the device can be opened relatively easily, and you can get to the rear of the jack plug, you may be able to push out the obstruction from the inside.

(most jack plugs have a hole all the way through them).This is easier, but might require you to void your device warranty.

Using a small q-tip with 99% ethanol afterwards will make sure to clean off any residue from the leaf and any sap it has left behind

Take a piece of tape, preferable the thin kind, and roll it up into a very narrow cone shape.

Leave the stick side facing outwards.

Insert this narrow end first into your headphone jack until it heads the end, then give it a couple of gentle twists.

Do not push too much on it, let the adhesive do the work for you.

I have succesfully cleaned out the lint out of my phone using this technique.

Question: Was a bit careless and didn't notice there was a small bit of a leaf in my headphone jack until I was putting it in. Now it's squished and presumably stuck in there. Does anyone know a safe way to get it out?

How to get a squished leaf out of a headphone jack?

There are a variety of different ways to remove foreign objects from a headphone jack. Most of them involve removing the dirt using a small object such as a small brush (such as those design for people with braces), a needle or a matchstick. Sticking a piece of rolled-up adhesive may also be effective. You could also try a vacuum cleaner or an air duster. A less pleasant but still potentially useful method would be to simply suck it out.

The options are to use inter-dental brushes, a pin or needle (after switching the phone off first), suck it out, use an air duster, a sharpened matchstick, a vacuum cleaner, a can of compressed air, a length of thin wire with a tiny hook at the end or some sticky tape rolled up into a narrow cone and inserted into the socket.

Use a pin, needle or something similar and switch off first.

Use a matchstick with the tip shaved down to a point.

Use a length of thin wire with a tiny hook at the end. Push in and rotate to grab the bits.

By a can of compressed air and blow it out.

Switch the phone off then use a sewing needle/toothpick/bent paperclip to pick out the leaf from the front of the jack plug and then clean out with ethanol.

Role some sticky tape into a tiny cone and insert into the socket and twist gently so that the adhesive picks up the bits.


I also came across this problem some time back.

The reason why it happens is that the upper part of the loaf is kept usually fluffy in most of the breads hence causing it to crumble when cut.

The lower side of the bread loaf on the other hand is softer and firmer than it's top.

THE HACK

: Keep the loaf upside down and then cut it.

You can moisten your knife a bit or apply butter for best results.

See this Illustration: It works!

You can place a cooling rack, or an oven rack, across your kitchen sink.

The loaf goes on top of that while you're cutting slices.

All the crumbs wind up in the sink, which makes them easy to rinse down the drain.

Just be sure to hold onto each slice of bread when it's about to be separated from the loaf so it doesn't fall through the rack!

You could also place the rack across a clean kitchen trash container, so the crumbs fall straight into the trash bag.

(BTW, I saw lumber in my sink too, to catch the sawdust.

I live in an apartment that doesn't have outdoor areas conducive to woodworking.

When sawing lumber, I first add a wet paper towel in the bottom of the sink to catch most of the sawdust.)

Having the best bread knife (or as it is sometimes called, bread saw) helps.

You also have the use it right, making a sawing motion, not pushing it much (or at all.)

It does not need to be an expensive knife, it has to have the right make, with saw like teeth (if flat, not at an angle as saws have.)

In kitchen stores (and some cheaper shops)

you can find two part bread boards, one a dish to catch the crumbs, the other on top open slats of wood, allowing the crumbs to fall through.

When you keep the bottom part clean, you can catch and use the crumbs if you want.

In cooking many people use bread crumbs.

I did an internet image search on -cutting board bread, two parts- and found this one among many others.

Only commercial links, as far as I could see, so no photos here.

One way I found is to wet the knife before starting to cut.

When the knife is wet, there are less crumbs.

Still not ideal, but better than nothing.

lifehacks.stackexchange.com/users/1399/Shadow Wizard is Ear For You

I do that inside a big transparent plastic bag.

Yes, the bread, the cutting board, the knife, both of your hands - put them all deep inside the bag, then cut the bread.

When I go to the bakery and buy crumb prone bread, I ask them to slice it for me --- problem avoided!

Packed in a plastic bag it remains fresh.

Question: When cutting a crispy bread, I usually end up with such a mess: (baguette in this example)   Crumbs all over the place. How can I avoid those crumbs and have a clean cut of the bread?

How to avoid crumbs when cutting a crispy bread?

lifehacks.stackexchange.com/users/1399/Shadow Wizard is Ear For You

There are a number of ways to avoid this problem but having a good quality knife will definitely help. You could also consider wetting the knife first. You might want to consider cutting the loaf upside down or could even consider cutting the bread over your sink to catch the crumbs. Alternatively, you cout cut the loaf inside a transparent plastic bag or simply ask the bakery to slice it for you when you buy.

The options are to cut the loaf upside down and smear butter over the knife or wet it first, cut it on an oven rack placed over your sink, make sure you have the right kind of bread knife, cut it inside a plastic bag or get the baker to cut it for you.

Cut the loaf upside down and smear some butter over the knife or wet it first.

Place an oven rack or similar across the sink and put the loaf on the roack to cut.

Make sure you have the right kind of bread knife.

Cut the bread with the breadboard, bread, knife and both your hands in a plastic bag.


Personally, I have never had haggis , but pairing it with wine is not all that uncommon.

Some even pair it with beer as can be seen here , but I would go with a sweet fruity red wine.

Pairing wine with haggis is very common on the web.

Here is a sample of how people wine with haggis: A dram of whisky works better after the meal, as its sheer strength means it doesn’t go with the food, so which wine to open first?

Red, of course, and something with enough richness to take on haggis, which is sheep’s (occasionally pig’s)

“pluck” – the heart, liver and lights (lungs) – mixed with oatmeal, spices and seasoning.

If you’re still with me (Susy Atkins) and up for it, a bold European red with a little savouriness and black pepper is by far the best.

Spanish tempranillo, aged in oak casks, and tasting of ripe red berries, wood spice and vanilla, is my favourite match.

Why I'll be drinking red wine - not whisky -

with my haggis Here is another:

Haggis is quite a funky-tasting meat - a bit like a savoury, spicy sausage -

so I think red wine is a better match than white.

I’ve found big jammy reds such as Australian shiraz work

well

(there is appropriately enough one called Bobbie Burns shiraz (available for about £15-£16 from independents including Alexander Hadleigh and Old Butcher's Wine Cellar .

Northern Rhône syrah and grenache/syrah/mourvèdre (GSM) blends from the southern Rhône, the Languedoc and Australia are also good matches, especially if they have a year or two’s bottle age.

The best wines to pair with haggis

And finally: Wine pairing with haggis – grape growing and winemaking techniques Grapes grown in hotter climates often have riper fruit which add to flavour intensity and texture of the wine; but also the sugar levels in the grapes are generally much higher adding further mouthfeel, so a sign is to look for wines that have perhaps 13.5% or above alcohol by volume.

Oak fermentation and/or

oak ageing adds flavour and texture too, so clues are sometimes on the label; be aware ‘oaked’ is not generally a style that adds texture, look for the word ‘aged’ to ensure it has seen the inside of an oak cask.

This week on our WSET Level 2 Wine Course we had an outstanding Puligny-Montrachet and also a equally impressive Chateauneuf-du-Pape, both would have successfully met the haggis-pairing challenge.

Burns Night – wine pairing with haggis All said and done: Enjoy!

I think haggis calls for a whisky barrel-aged porter, an Irish stout, or a peated malt ale, preferably in vast quantities so that you: don't know what you're eating, don't eat because you're too drunk.

I don't know much about wine, but you can't go wrong with a beer.

Wee Heavy :

This style of beer is Scottish through and through.

It's malty and slightly sweet, with a high alcohol content that will keep things more fun.

Schwarzbier :

The Germans have been drinking beer with their sausage for centuries.

Any German beer should do, but Schwarzbier balances flavour with easy-drinking quality.

I have tried this with a nice Reposado, and it works well.

But you are much better off with a nice whisky.

Or any other drink - it doesn't really matter.

If you have a nice haggis the drink is irrelevant.

(disclaimer - I am Scottish)

As a fan of haggis and single-malt Scotch, and host of many a Rabbie Burns night, I'd say you have several good alternatives.

Most of the Burns nights I've attended offered malty, full-bodied beers along with the haggis.

Scottish ales, porters, wee heavies, and oatmeal stouts are some of the favorites.

If there are wines, I'd recommend hearty reds, like a good Zinfandel.

Keep in mind that not all haggis is created equal.

Just as no two Texans have the same family recipe for chili, no two Scots will make haggis the same.

I've had haggis all over Scotland and quite a few places in the U.S., and each one is different.

If you're getting it from a butcher that regularly makes haggis, ask for a taste in advance so you can ponder what to pair with it.

NOTE:

Haggis in a can is an abomination.

Don't do it!

Get fresh-made haggis from a proper butcher shop.

Having had (and enjoyed)

Haggis

many times, and I think it being closer to a red meat than a white meat, I'd say you'd want to pair it with alcohol that is typically served with red meat.

Full bodied, medium to dry red wines, or darker bitter ales.

I'm not usually one to go 'by the book' with my pairings, but knowing what I know about the flavour and texture of haggis

I think red wine or dark beer would be the way to go.

Question: On  Burns Night  it is traditional to have a 'wee dram' to drink with your  Haggis .  I am serving Haggis to some Scottish friends, and as it is not Burns Night I feel that I can forgo the traditions of whiskey with Haggis and serve another spirit/wine.  What would be a good alcohol pairing for Haggis?

What can be substituted for whiskey with Haggis?

Most people consider red wine as the better pairing with haggis. Recommendations include Spanish Tempranillo, Shiraz, Zinfandel and wines from hot climates in general. Other people want to stick with whiskey while still others recommned a pairing with beer.

Red wine and beers are commonly recommended pairings to haggis as an alternative to whisky. Bold, rich and fruity red wines are particularly popular. Flavoursome and deeper ales and beers are a popular choice. A good tequila has even been suggested as an alternative to whisky.

Red wine is a recommended pairing to haggis as an alternative to whisky. Bold, rich and fruity reds with are commonly chosen, with examples including Spanish tempranillo and grenache/syrah/mourvèdre blends.

Beer and fruity red wine are both recommended as a pairing with haggis.

Full-bodied beers and ales are often recommended with haggis - particularly porters, malted beers or German beers such as Schwarzbier.

Reposado tequila is another alternative to whisky.


It depends on how sweet you are looking for.

If you are looking for very sweet than dessert wines are the way to go, a Sauternes or Mustacel will be at least 12% if not higher.

If all you want is a fruitier wine then many German white wines like Rieslings or Gewürztraminers tend to be on the sweet side, sometimes too sweet for many palates.

Slightly less sweet whites are Sauvignon Blancs, Chenin blancs , soaves, the list goes on.

All of these should be above 12% Reds are tough for people with sweet palates, there are red dessert wines out there, and there are sweeter reds

but there's no variety I can think of that

is reliably sweeter.

Roses are often sweet, especially the cheaper ones like White Zinfandel , but those can be low quality.

A good Zinfandel red is a great wine, but not what I'd consider sweet.

Most fortified wines such as port, Madeira, (sweet) sherry, Commandaria are both very sweet and are very high in alcohol.

Many are in the range of 20% ABV.

I would strongly [pun intended] suggest seeing if she enjoys Port or Madeira.

My personal favourite strong, sweet wine is Elysium Black muscat .

It is so sweet that I commonly have it as dessert in restaurants.

A little primer on alcohol and sugar in wine.

The lower the alcohol is usually associated with higher acid levels because the grapes are picked less ripe.

Champagne is a good example of this.

To offset the biting acids, winemakers usually add sugar to compensate.

That's why so many low alcohol wines are sweet.

Can you find higher alcohol wines that are sweeter?

Sure, dessert wines come to mind.

Sauternes, Ice Wines, Tokay, Late Harvest wines are sweet with more alcohol.

A lot of mainstream wine brands, like Sutter Home are purposely made sweeter.

Unfortunately, the cheaper the wine, usually the sweeter it is.

Like I always mention here, wine is an adventure that only you can travel.

You need to discover what you like (or your wife in this case).

But I think these are several recommendations that should set you on the path.

Please consider the sweet and fortified wines of the Rhone with Muscat de Beaumes de Venise being the kind of wine that might give satisfaction allround.

I find that the great house of E. Guigal offers an excellent price/quality/ratio for this wine.

My favourite wine varietal these days is Portguese Vinho Verde which is a super-sweet white wine.

Two major brands are Sogrape Gazela Vinho Verde at 9% ABV, sugar content 11g/L or Caves Alianca Vinicola De Sangalhos Vinho Verde which is actually 10% ABV, sugar content 14g/L

Following my personal taste, I would advise these two "meditation" sweet wines: Malvasia delle

Lipari passito DOC (Italy, up to 18%); Samos Muscat

(Grece, around 15%); lighter instead (I'd say below 10%) and very different concept than the above two, Italian Fragolino .

appasemiento and rippasso wines from Italy are sweeter due to production method of drying/partially drying the grapes before pressing allowing a richer flavour and keeping alcohol levels as high as regular wine.

Question: My wife loves drinking Moscato and Stella Rosa but they don't intoxicate her. I have to occasionally spike her drinks (obviously knowingly) with whiskey for her to feel a "buzz." Are there any wines that are maybe not as sweet as the 2 mentioned but less dry that provider maybe like a 12 to 15% alcohol content?

Wine recommendation on the sweet side with 12 to 15% alcohol

Many white wines from Germany are sweeter yet high in alcohol. Sauternes, Ice Wines, Tokay, Late Harvest wines are sweet with more alcohol. Appasemiento and rippasso wines from Italy are sweeter due to production method of drying/partially drying the grapes before pressing allowing a richer flavour and keeping alcohol levels as high as regular wine.  Slightly less sweet whites are  Sauvignon Blancs, Chenin blancs  and soaves. Port and Madeira are other options.

German white wines such as Reislings or Gewürztraminers are considered to be rather sweet, and Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Soave wines offer a slightly less sweet option. Fortified wines are another suggestion, with varieties including port, madeira and Muscat. Sauternes, ice wines and late harvest wines may also be suitable. Some wines for the mainstream market are purposefully made sweeter, such as Sutter Homes wines, for example. However, some wines, such as the appasemiento and rippasso wines from Italy keep alcohol levels high and intensify flavour by drying the grapes before pressing.

Fortified wines such as port, madeira and Muscat are popular suggestions, as well as sauternes, ice wines and late harvest wines.

Mainstream brands such as Sutter Home may purposefully be made sweeter. However, some wines, such as the appasemiento and rippasso wines from Italy keep alcohol levels high and intensify flavour by drying the grapes before pressing.


The answer to this question is going to differ from person to person, since gout sufferers react differently to both diet and alcohol.

For some individuals alcohol increases pain in gout sufferers, while in others it decreases their pain.

One has to know how to micro-manage their personal diets and alcohol consumption.

For those who want to micro-manage their gout diet, you should know that there is never a single best alcoholic beverage.

You know that your overall diet needs change at different times in your gout treatment plan.

This applies equally to alcohol.

You should know that the affects of alcohol are different for every gout sufferer.

For that reason, I urge you to get a personal gout management plan from your doctor.

- What Is The Best Alcoholic Beverage To Drink With Gout?

Gout attacks rise with when your diet is high in purines.

Purines are found in high-protein foods, and they are also found in some drinks.

“Beer contains a large amount of purines and has a strong association with gout attacks.

One study estimated that patients who consumed a 12-ounce serving of beer daily were 1.5 times more likely to have gout compared to those without alcohol consumption,” says Dr. Sloane.

Beer is especially bad for you if you tend to get gout symptoms because it is high in alcohol and brewer’s yeast, both of which may trigger gout pain.”

Gout and Alcohol It seems that wine, whiskey or scotch may be a reasonable substitute for beer if drank in moderation or small amounts.

“In a study published in The Lancet medical journal this spring, researchers followed over 47,000 male medical professionals with no history of gout for up to 12 years.

By the end of the study, close to 2 percent of the men had experienced attacks of gout.

Men who drank the most alcohol daily had twice the risk of developing the disorder as men who did not drink.

Beer drinkers increased their risk by 50% for every daily serving, while those who drank hard liquor increased their risk by 15% for each drink.

Men who drank wine did not appear to increase their risk for gout, although few men had more than two glasses of wine daily so these results are less conclusive.

- Gout and Alcohol The Lancet Journal "interprets" their findings as such: Interpretation Alcohol intake is strongly associated with an increased risk of gout.

This risk varies substantially according to type of alcoholic beverage: beer confers a larger risk than spirits, whereas moderate wine drinking does not increase the risk.

Even though this study is in favor of drinking wine for gout sufferers, all alcohol consumption must be done in moderation and prudence as individuals react differently to alcohol and different types of alcohol.

I've found cider to be good for me.

I used to drink beer and it took two beer to set off an attack.

I can drink 6 or 7 Strongbow and no gout flare-ups

I have friends who has gout who still drinks beer, BUT you should be aware of your alcohol limit before you get the worst out of the scenario.

Wine should be the best way for you to get the booze out of the drink.

So watch out of the alcohol content before doing so, its no that I'm encouraging you to do so, but any limit due to your condition would not lead to NOT doing so.

Better yet consult your specialist if you still have the urge to engage in drinking beer/wine.

In 1998, my VERY FIRST GOUT ATTACK came on after I decided to get into fine wines.

Others may differ, but I will only have a small serving of wine as a toast or with dinner a couple of times a year.

I had 3 gout attacks last year.

I used to drink lots of beer which was the cause for my attacks.

I tried everything after the 1st attacks to replace beers but everything including vodka, wine, whiskey were triggering my attacks.

Great news is that I have been drinking dry apple cider regularly now and not facing any issues.

Last I knew malt gave the most chance of gout.

Whisky is less.

Wine 0%.

You can get gout from other ways as well (too rich diet).

Question: I know alcoholic drinks are "restricted items" for a gout patient diet list. So just wanted to check if we have any specialist here :)  Which drink is less impact ? Beer/Wine/Other Liquors ?

What is the best alcoholic drink for gout patients?

People contend that wine, cider and whiskey have little or no effect on gout. Beer on the other hand is definitely to be avoided.

In moderation, wine appears to be a popular choice of alcoholic beverage among sufferers of gout. Some gout patients have also noted that cider does not have an adverse effect on their symptoms. However, beer is considered to have an adverse effect on gout symptoms.

Beer is considered to have particularly bad effect on symptoms among gout patients.

Some people say that apple cider does not adversely affect their gout symptoms.


Do you have to follow a monastic lifestyle to attain enlightenment?

At first approximation, the answer is: yes in Theravada, no in Mahayana.

Since probably as early as Milindapanha (~100 BCE) and most certainly by the time of Vissudhimagga (~430CE), the orthodox (~Theravada) position was, you must be a monk to attain Nirvana .

But since you asked about Enlightenment , I should point out that Enlightenment is the goal of Mahayana, while in Theravada, the final goal is usually called Nirvana

(Nibbana in Pali), not Enlightenment (Bodhi in Pali).

In Mahayana, Enlightenment can be attained by a layperson.

These are "official" positions (as much as we can talk about official positions in such a heterogeneous conglomerate of teachings as Buddhism).

Informally, in my own understanding, what some Mahayana schools call "Enlightenment" is what Theravada schools call mere "stream-entry".

Other Mahayana schools however have this notion of multiple levels (bhumi), in which what Theravada calls "stream-entry" is level 1 of 10, with Final Enlightenment counted as 11th.

It kinda gets complicated from "stream-entry" onward, because the boundaries of "self" no longer apply, so it is difficult to talk about Enlightenment with no subject to tie it to.

Anyway, from practical perspective, the point is, it is extremely difficult to make any meaningful progress towards Enlightenment/Nirvana if most of your focus is on pursuing material ends (success, wealth, entertainment, helping your relatives achieve the same).

In order to get pretty close to X while leading a semi-normal life, one's top priority must be spiritual practice, followed by family and everything else.

This basically means, squeezing study of Buddhist philosophy here and there, making meditation part of your daily routine, and, most importantly, deliberately utilizing your family & work situations as shootingrange for Dharma practice.

Enlightenment is entirely mental; it can be achieved

any where, at any time, and under any circumstance with the right emotional commitment.

A monastic lifestyle only has to be followed on the emotional level; you can have vast amounts of material wealth if it does not corrupt your mind by creating any forms of obsession over that wealth.

My understanding of Buddhism is that you can attain enlightenment provided you devote yourself to the Four Noble Truths and Noble Eightfold Path.

I have met enlightened people from time to time and not all of them were monastics.

If you're new to Buddhism and the above concepts are unfamilar to you, there are some concise summaries of basic concepts at

What should everyone know about Buddhism .

The question is who will get enlightened, the body or the mind ?

The answer is obvious, the mind.

So when it is only the mind that gets enlightened all the external things are just auxiliary.

So the answer to your question is both yes and no. YES Actions directly affect the mind.

So by following a monastic life your actions will be limited to only those set of activities that help in controlling the mind and getting enlightened.

Enlightenment will be quicker and easier because you will have to involve less in material activities.

NO

Because mind is what matters, if you can keep an ascetic attitude and mentality even when living a material life, you can certainly attain enlightenment.

But it will be difficult to maintain a balanced mindset for a beginner this way because material actions will always be affecting his mind.

So if mind can not be controlled while living in samsara then a monastic life should be preferred, otherwise it's not mandatory.

For an enlightened person it doesn't matter whether he lives in a monastery or in samsara as his mind becomes equipoised.

But until that state of mind is achieved a monastic life should be preferred.

From Anapanasati Sutta: Mindfulness of in-&-out breathing, when developed & pursued, is of great fruit, of great benefit.

Mindfulness of in-&-out breathing, when developed & pursued, brings the four frames of reference to their culmination.

The four frames of reference, when developed & pursued, bring the seven factors for awakening to their culmination.

The seven factors for awakening, when developed & pursued, bring clear knowing & release to their culmination.

Here

Buddha says mindfulness alone and the affects it arouses are enough for enlightenment.

There is a lesser-known, non-monastic tradition in Tibetan Buddhism: a Ngagpa may marry and have children.

Much information is covered in the other answers, hence a small clarification of what is generally belief in Sri Lanka.

You can become Enlightened while a house holder

but you have to ordinate before 7 days after becoming enlightened.

buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/295/Suminda Sirinath S. Dharmasena

You may get a understanding, of what's the matter with when reading Cula-dukkhakkhandha Sutta:

The Lesser Mass of Stress for example and to know of what the Buddha had to say.

Yes, right livelihood (livestyle), one of the factor of the Noble Eightfold path is necessary.

(Note: this answer has not been given with the agreement to be means of trade or the purpose of trade and keep people trapped and bound.

How you handle it lies in your sphere, but does not excuse the deed here either.)

Question: How do the different groups/sects of Buddhism view attaining enlightenment and living a common life? In other words, do they think it is possible to be a common person and achieve enlightenment? Even for someone who has a family, friends and coworkers that aren't Buddhists?

Do you have to follow a monastic lifestyle to attain enlightenment?

At first approximation, the answer is:  yes  in Theravada,  no  in Mahayana.   Anyway, from practical perspective, the point is, it is extremely difficult to make any meaningful progress towards Enlightenment/Nirvana if most of your focus is on pursuing material ends (success, wealth, entertainment, helping your relatives achieve the same). However, Buddha says mindfulness alone and the affects it arouses are enough for enlightenment.

It is thought that enlightenment may be achieved by laypersons in certain divisions of Buddhism. However, opinions are inconsistent. Some schools refer to achievement of various levels (bhumi) of enlightenment or "stream-entry".  Spiritual practice should be considered to be a priority over material ends to achieve enlightenment. A monastic life is not necessary to achieve enlightenment. Enlightenment is a mental endeavour and even those who live a material life may achieve it by following Buddhist teachings.

It is thought that enlightenment may be achieved by laypersons in certain divisions of Buddhism. However, opinions are inconsistent. Some schools refer to various levels (bhumi) of enlightenment or "stream-entry".

It is difficult to achieve enlightenment if material ends are of a higher priority than spiritual practice.


Yes the sensation is a normal condition.

It is just muscle/nerve spasms.

They may be happening throughout the day but go largely unnoticed.

They are also at level of neuron firings so you typically will not be able to see them physically.

During meditation you are probably more aware of the tiny changes in your body.

One thing I notice during meditation is how loud my stomach has been this last week.

The more you become aware of them the more intense they will probably appear to manifest.

Unless it is a medical condition such as a hemifacial spasm they will typically go away on their own.

This is your 1st glimpse of arising and passing away.

When you practice more you will see there is no solidity

any where and your body is completely a mass of arraigning and passing sensations which manifests them self are vibrations.

If you not be attached or averse to them as this creates negativity.

buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/295/Suminda Sirinath S. Dharmasena

Never think 3rd eye activation or Kundolini bla bla.

If you think so, your ego is growing up with meditation.

Before everything, you kill ego first then try to become no mind state.

Then ----

What kind of meditation are you practicing right now?

I believe you are practicing Anapana and have not yet ventured into Vipassana.

When you will start doing Vipassana, you will realise that there are vibrations constantly happening all over the body.

We use these vibrations, this arising and falling of sensations to ascertain the reality of impermanence and anatta.

So basically your mindfulness has increased making you aware of these sensations.

A word of caution will be not to get attached to these sensations...sometimes you may not feel them and sometimes these sensations may be painful...

remaining equanimous all the time is the key.

This sensation is normal during meditation and the place is called Ajna (or third-eye chakra - the mind's eye).

In statues of buddhas

it's placed on the forehead as a most previous jewel.

In Tibetan buddhism, this chakra is at the end of the central channel, which runs up the body to the top of the head, and then over and down, terminating at the forehead.

The two side channels continue onwards towards the two nostrils and end there.

[Source: wiki]

From a spiritual point of view, we could compare the third eye to the temple's portal to the sacred places or the bridge allowing mind communication.

The purpose of meditation is to reveal this natural subtle perception (vibrating sensation).

The best results are achieved when you don't use your imagination/visualisation, so things will come to you naturally (just flow with what comes).

So if you feel vibration (or pressure, density) between the eyebrows, don't pay attention to it, just focus on the vibration and try to connect this energy with your throat chakra ( Vishuddha ) in order to create the circulation of the life force ( Lung / Qi / Vijñāna ), so you can sense your light/astral/etheric body.

See also:

“Electric Feel” body sensation during meditation at Buddhism SE (book) Geshe Kelsang Gyatso .

Tantric Grounds and Paths (book) Awakening the Third Eye by Samuel Segan ( PDF )

Question: Recently during my meditation sessions I have been getting a vibrating sensation between the eyebrows sometimes it can be quite intense.   I have looked online and from what I can find it suggests this sensation refers to the "third eye". Just wondering if this is mentioned in any buddhists texts and is sensation normal?

Vibrating Sensation in Middle of forehead during meditation?

Vibrating sensation during meditation is normal. It is a muscle spasm. The place it occurs is called Ajna.

This is a normal sensation caused by muscle/nerve spasms. This sensation is normal during meditation and the place is called Ajna  (or third-eye chakra - the mind's eye).


It could be in any order: "There is the case where a monk has developed insight preceded by tranquillity...

Then there is the case where a monk has developed tranquillity preceded by insight...

Then there is the case where a monk has developed tranquillity in tandem with insight..." ~ AN 4.170 ~

Of course!You are supposed to practice the two together!

Btw, let's use proper terminology:

jhana = samatha practice, dry insight = vipassana.

To use even simpler terms, the former is called "calming meditation" the latter "awareness meditation"

They are complementary not supplementary to one another and actually really one practice...

"Really one practice"That is an advanced subject that will not be given full justice on a mere Q&A here.

Thus, I suggest reading the chapter about the two in the book "

A Short Walk on an Ancient Path" by Brian Ruhe.

Basically, vipassana and jhana cultivation are not two totally separate routes.

You cannot just tranquilize yourself into jhana but will still exercise STRONG observing faculties in order to concentrate on the meditation object.

The better you are at vipassana, the better you should be at calming yourself and vice versa.

Vipassana, which is pure awareness, instead of having any material meditation object, uses your innate formless awareness as a meditation object.

Basically its a meditation object of no-object.

What is the object when doing "jhana cultivation"?

A material object such as your breath.

Perhaps when you meditate you will notice this:"OK.

I am going to focus on my breathhing...

Breathing in, breathing out, breathing in oh!

Noting

I just thought about my mom, coming back to breath, breathing in, breathing out"Makes sense?Jhana would not be possible without vipassana.

Thus, there is only one practice: jhana.

That's why the buddha doesn't talk about vipassana in the original texts, just jhana and his reccommended route: breathing meditation.

It's also why Thich Nhat Hanh does the same.

The answer to your question: yes!

They are one and the same but can be focused on separately to help you perfect Right Meditation and lead you to jhana.

Yes.

In the Pali suttas Samatha and Vipassana were not clearly two seperate practices as they seem to be today.

We argue over this all the time.

The argument of those who practice "insight only" or "dry insight" is usually that it's a matter of interpretation and that the critique that it's incorrect to separate Vipassana and Samatha comes from rigid minds that think there is little room for interpretation of the often profound and hard to comprehend words of the Buddha, even for Pali scholars.

They would say they must be interpreted and to try to follow the teachings so literally would be incorrect.

What every order both develop Jhana is important to strengthening of wisdom and ultimately both should be developed.

So when practising meditation, it is not the best to take the stance that you aim to develop exclusively on or the other, though different techniques maybe conducive for one or the other, but at time when you reap better results in areas which were not intended this also should be accepted.

(Having concentration can lead to wisdom and wisdom lead to concentration through the practice is geared to the other.)

If you have concentration wisdom is easy but you need some active effort (through not very much) to develop it though.

buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/295/Suminda Sirinath S. Dharmasena

The statement that Jhana is difficult for you reveals that you are TRYING to do it.

You do not make an effort to reach it.

This is an error.

You relax the body to calm the mind.

You have to be able to understand the elements present in the first Jhana before you will know you are experiencing them.

This is the vittaka vicara where you ask and answer questions in your mind while at the same time experiencing the comfort of a calm mind(no hindrances present).

Then also you experience the comfort of the body in this totally relaxed state.

And lastly in the first Jhana you will experience Ekkagata, which is the settling of the mind into a balanced state where the emotions no longer rule the mind.

When you experience ALL of these, THAT is the First Jhana.

It happens TO you; you do not MAKE it happen by concentration.

AND you will never experience these states without first establishing Sila in your life by LIVING the Five Precepts, not just reciting them.

Sila(living a moral life) leads you into Samadhi(calmness of mind, which is the Samatha or Jhanas.

Until you reach that level of practice you cannot begin to acquire the wisdom of Panna.

Simple really.

But far from easy.

Question: Is it possible that a meditator uses jhana practice and dry insight together?   I mean: not combined in the same meditation session, but clearly in separate, distinct meditation sessions.   Both meditation practices have their own benefits (and disadvantages), so I wonder if it wouldn't be favorable to use the strengths of both.

Jhana practice and Dry insight practice together

Basically, vipassana and jhana cultivation are not two totally separate routes. They are complementary not supplementary to one another and actually really one practice. They are one and the same but can be focused on separately to help you perfect Right Meditation and lead you to jhana. iN FACT, In the Pali suttas Samatha and Vipassana were not clearly two seperate practices as they seem to be today.

These practices are two parts of the same whole and it is encouraged to focus on them both together and separately. In the Pali suttas Samatha and Vipassana were not clearly two separate practices as they seem to be today.


Nirvana isn't a heaven, but a state or condition where there is no death, because there is also no birth, no coming into existence, nothing made by conditioning, and therefore no time.

See Wikipedia - Nibbana

It isn't a place of pleasures, like heavens typically are, but a state of no becoming, no dualities like pleasure and pain.

It neither is, nor isn't.

In a famous passage in the Nibbana Sutta (Udana 8.1) , the Buddha states:

There is that dimension where there is neither earth, nor water, nor fire, nor wind; neither dimension of the infinitude of space, nor dimension of the infinitude of consciousness, nor dimension of nothingness, nor dimension of neither perception nor non-perception; neither this world, nor the next world, nor sun, nor moon.

And there, I say, there is neither coming, nor going, nor stasis; neither passing away nor arising: without stance, without foundation, without support [mental object].

This, just this, is the end of stress (dukkha; suffering)

Does that mean there are no heavens in Buddhism?

Not like the Christian idea, as a final destination, no.

However, there are

realms (ex. Trayatimsa ) which are more pleasurable than earth, where one can with enough merit be reborn and eventually die to be reborn again, ad inifinitum till Nirvana i.e. cessation.

See Wikipedia-Buddhist Cosmology

Here's an artist's imagination of Trayatimsa realm, however there can be no picture of Nirvana.

(Image source: Wikimedia-commons )

EDIT:

Considering it some more, I think the abstract expressionism of the Zen Ensō or circle is what you want.

The ensō symbolizes absolute enlightenment, strength, elegance, the universe, and mu (the void).

It is characterised by a minimalism born of Japanese aesthetics.

Source:

Ensō - Wikipedia

On traditional bhavachakra images, Nirvana in its "peace of mind" aspect is symbolized by the full moon.

While sentient beings down in the realms of Samsara are busy chasing desires and experiencing fruits of their own actions, Buddha points his finger at the moon as if saying: "if only you could let go of your attachments, you would get it right here and now":

There are depictions of after-lifes (e.g. heavens and hells etc.).

However Buddhism teaches that these too are impermanent and not ultimately satisfying.

Nirvana is meant to be instead of afterlives such as those.

It supposes a turning away from form , from sense-impressions , and from mental imaginings (and so I don't see how to depict it as a picture).

If you need an equivalent, an equivalent might be a representation of the Buddha (there are many pictures of that).Or the only other pictorial symbol I can think of, that's sometimes used to represent enlightenment, is the Ensō .

Only conceptual ones, IE only artists interpretations.

As others have mentioned, Nirvana is not a type of heaven, it's more of an extinguishing of conditioned things.

It wouldn't make a very good picture.

However Buddhism is not without its heavenly places.

Some schools of Mahayana Buddhism have a Pure Land practice or consider the Pure Land to be a destination on the way to becoming a Buddha.

Both the descriptions and depictions of the Pure Land are quite lovely.

Moreover, Shariputra, in that Buddhaland there is always divine music and the ground is yellow gold.

In the six periods of the day and night a heavenly rain of mandarava (white lotus)

flowers fall, and throughout the clear morning, each living being of that land, offers sacks full of the myriad of wonderful flowers, to the hundreds of billions of Buddhas in the other directions… Shariputra, in that Buddhaland when the soft wind blows, the rows of jeweled trees and jeweled nets give forth subtle and wonderful sounds, like one hundred thousand kinds of music played in symphony.

The hearts of all those who hear are naturally inspired with mindfulness of the Buddha, mindfulness of the Dharma, and mindfulness of the Sangha… Source: http://cttbusa.org/buddhism_brief_introduction/chapter7.asp

Although not quite nibbāna, I will contribute a drawing inspired by the experience of the base of neither perception nor non-perception by Tina Rasmussen, student of Pa Auk Sayadaw.

Question: I´m writing an article about pictures of the afterlifes/havens in different religions. But I wasn´t able to find pictures/paintings/artworks that picture Nirvana on the internet. So my question is: Are there pictures of Nirvana?

Are there pictures/paintings of Nirvana?

On traditional  bhavachakra  images, Nirvana in its "peace of mind" aspect is symbolized by the full moon.


The word 'mindfulness' means ' to remember ' or ' keep in mind '.

In the context of Buddhism, it means 'to remember' to practise the factors of the eightfold path.

For example, if you are speaking/talking, you remember to speak in a manner that is honest, pleasant/gentle, cordial & beneficial.

This is practising mindfulness meditation when meditating upon speech.

If practising formal sitting meditation, mindfulness is to remember to keep the mind in state that does not have desire for or get distressed about anything in the world.

Therefore, in formal sitting meditation, how to practise mindfulness meditation is to sit without desire or worry & just sit with natural quiet.

When this is done properly, awareness of breathing will arise naturally as a sign of right mindfulness & later pleasant feelings will arise as a sign of right mindfulness.

You won't learn this one from books, only by trying out and practicing it.

The practice is to go beyond concepts like

Now I'm meditating , this is good, bad, me, mine... and focus on the raw experience which is present.

If you sit down to start meditating with the intention to be mindfull you might have the feeling

Now I'm meditating , but in reality all you do is change postures.

You should have some basic instructions, but don't get into theory too much.

It won't help you, it will only reinforce your opinions and ideas.

I'd suggest to get to know the framework of Right Mindfulness , which are body, feelings, mindstates, mindobjects ( dhamma ).

The original teaching from the Buddha himself:

Satipatthana Sutta:

The Foundations of Mindfulness A more practical guide from Ven.

Yuttadhammo (the noting technique): How to Meditate

Recently I m reading a dharma book (The Chinese Version), which 25 great beings demonstrated how they practiced mindfulness meditation.

The winner is: Guan Shi

Yin Bodhisattva practices on hearing:

http://www.cttbusa.org/shurangama5/shurangama5_12.asp You might be interested to have a read of above link as well as 24 other practices.

May you be happy and at ease

Try starting with accesstoinsight.org , Jon Kabat Zinn , Joseph Goldstein , Google Search Inside Yourself .

How about The Bhante Yuttadhammo channel on YouTube?

He has a lot of useful videos but check out "How to Meditate" for beginners.

His online videos are beginner to intermediate on much more than only mindfulness and he gives meditation courses from beginner to advanced.

The teachers below teach about the same way as Bhante Yuttadhammo and are very beginner friendly: Joseph Goldstein, Bhante Bodhidhamma, Gil Fronsdal

Just Google one of the above names in quotes and add "Dhamma talks" There's a Youtuber called "Stephen Proctor" who gives outstanding beginning teachings on mindfulness meditation in my opinion.

Has anyone else heard of him?

Is it just me or can this guy really teach or what?

These teachers practice the same way I try to practice

but there are a lot of good teachers who might have a different approach.

The detail of the practice is outlined in Satipatthana Sutta and Anapanasati Sutta , but these instruction maybe difficult to follow for a beginner.

Best is to take a course in it.

2 organisations with a reasonably wide outreach are: http://www.internationalmeditationcentre.org/ and http://www.dhamma.org or alternatively look for a teacher in World Buddhist Directory .

buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/295/Suminda Sirinath S. Dharmasena

Question: I have been researching this lately and thought it was amazing. I just don't know where to begin or know any techniques. Can someone list some?

How to practice Mindfulness Meditation?

S6: When formal sitting meditation is done properly, awareness of breathing will arise naturally as a sign of right mindfulness & later pleasant feelings will arise as a sign of right mindfulness.  There is a YouTube channel by Bhante Yuttadhammo and various beginner friendly teachers including Joseph Goldstein and Bhante Bodhidhamma to help. There are also courses available.

In formal sitting meditation, mindfulness involves remembering to keep the mind in a state that does not have desire for or get distressed about anything in the world.  Therefore, the best way to practise mindfulness meditation is to sit without desire or worry, with natural quiet. When done properly, awareness of breathing will arise naturally as a sign of right mindfulness & pleasant feelings will follow as a sign of right mindfulness.  It is worth getting to know the  framework  of  Right Mindfulness , which are body, feelings, mindstates, mindobjects ( dhamma ).  Bhante Yuttadhammo on YouTube is recommended, as well as the following teachers, who are  very beginner friendly:  Joseph Goldstein, Bhante Bodhidhamma,  Gil Fronsdal.  The detail of the practice is outlined in  Satipatthana Sutta  and  Anapanasati Sutta , but these instructions may be difficult to follow for a beginner. It might be better to take a course.


Following have a wide outreach:

http://www.dhamma.org/en/index http://www.internationalmeditationcentre.org/global/index.html

So there might be a place near to where you live.

Also you can try: World Buddhist Directory

buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/295/Suminda Sirinath S. Dharmasena

Blue Mountains Insight Meditation centre - Medlow Bath Australia.

1hr45min drive from Sydney Airport.

Train station is walking distance to centre.

Individual rooms with share bathroom.

Separate accommodation for men and women.

Books out fast as they only have accommodation for about 20 people.

Pa-Auk Forest Monastery, in Myanmar (Burma).

However, you will have to develop access concentration before you can begin Vipassana (Satipatthana).

You may remain there for a period of months or years, even lifetime if you are able to renew your visa each year.

You also have the chance to ordain after a few weeks or months, once deemed trustworthy.

At first you will be able to get a visa of 3 months and extend the visa for a 1 year period each time.

Yearly visa is about 100$ US.

May you realize Nibbana and know true peace and freedom, friend.

These are two prominent places in Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka offers 1 year residence visa easily if you have a recommendation beforehand.

Normally in Sri Lanka, temperory ordination is discouraged and permanent ordination is possible at anytime.

Mitirigala Nissarana Vanaya Teacher-

Ven.

Udairiyagama Dhammajiva Maha Thero (U DhammajivaSayadaw), Excellent knowledge in Dhamma, Pali, Burmese and English, Specialty in Mindfulness and emphasizes the value of mindfulness Meditation Technique - Satipatthana meditation, Burmese Mahasi/Panditarama Technique (Vipassana) and SriLankan Nanarama Method (Vipassana with Samatha) Retreats - 3 days, 7 days, 10 days, 20 days and extensive periods areallowed for serious practitioners and for the meditators who areexpecting the ordaination Location - Mitirigala,Kirindivela, Sri Lanka More Information - nissarana.lk (Official Website) Sanghopasthana Suva Sevana Teacher-

Ven.

Katukurunde Nyanananda Maha Thero (Bhikkhu Nanananda)[A famous book author and a meditation master], Excellent knowledge in Dhamma, Pali and English, Advises not to be in a hurry but to practice Samatha also for aiding Vipassana, Slowly-Mindfully-Carefully.

Appreciates dedication for practicing.

Meditation Technique - Both Samatha and Vipassana, Metta Meditationand probably Sri Lankan Nanarama Method (Vipassana with Samatha) Retreats -

Any time is possible with prior notice.

No allocated dates.

special consideration for dedicated meditators and dedicated practitioners who are expecting the ordaination.

Location - Kirillawala Watta, Dammulla, Karandana, Sri Lanka

More Information - http://www.seeingthroughthenet.net

(OfficialWebsite)

Additionally there are more meditation centers which are famous in different aspects.

NaUyana Aranya in Melsiripura (Burmese Pa-auk system), Kanduboda M.C. (Burmese Mahasi System),

Goenka centers in Kandy, Anuradhapura and Kosgama (Burmese Sayagi U Ba Kin system)

If you are in the south-central United States, there is the The Southwest Vipassana Meditation Center in Kaufman, Texas.

It is about an hour and fifteen minutes drive southeast from the Dallas-Fort Worth Airport.

Question: Please recommend good place for Vipassana meditation for in 2017.   Including   Availability of visa  it does not matter short 7-14 days or long (in months) Vipassana meditation course  If it is remote place better  It is not book fly and go vacation so manual work or queuing is ok  If it is a place that we need to ordain to be a monk before starting Vipassana meditation, I prefer.

Which place is good for vipassana meditation?

There are good places for vipassana meditation in Australia, Myanmar, Sri Lanka and the US.

Recommendations include the Blue Mountains Insight Meditation centre - Medlow Bath Australia; Pa-Auk Forest Monastery, in Myanmar; Mitirigala Nissarana Vanaya; NaUyana Aranya in Melsiripura (Burmese Pa-auk system), Kanduboda M.C. (Burmese Mahasi System), and The Southwest Vipassana Meditation Center in Kaufman, Texas.

Goenka centers in Kandy, Anuradhapura and Kosgama (Burmese Sayagi U Ba Kin system); Goenka centers in Kandy, Anuradhapura and Kosgama (Burmese Sayagi U Ba Kin system)


Quoting from About.com

If there is any color that can symbolize all aspects of Hinduism, it's saffron - the color of Agni or fire, which reflects the Supreme Being.

As such, the fire altar is regarded as a distinct symbol of ancient Vedic rites.

The saffron color, also auspicious to the Sikhs, the Buddhists and the Jains , seems to have obtained religious significance much before these religions came into being.

Fire worship had its origin in the Vedic age.

The foremost hymn in the Rig Veda glorifies fire: "Agnimile purohitam yagnasya devam rtvijam, hotaram ratna dhatamam.

" When sages moved from one ashram to another, it was customary to carry fire along.

The inconvenience to carry a burning substance over long distances may have given rise to the symbol of a saffron flag .

Triangular and often forked saffron flags are seen fluttering atop most Sikh and Hindu temples.

While Sikhs regard it as a militant color, Buddhist monks and Hindu saints wear robes of this color as a mark of renunciation of material life.

Apart from that wearing the color symbolizes the quest for light.

It is the battle color of the Rajputs, the warrior caste.

When Buddha gave up his mortal body, he was covered with a special robe dyed in saffron.

Ever since then, Buddhist monks have adopted saffron as the colour that can help them achieve their goal of 'moksha' or deliverance.

Saffron is omnipresent in all the religions that have branched out from Hinduism.

You see saffron in the garb of monks living on alms.

It is the colour of the religious standard that flutters over Sikh gurudwaras and Hindu temples.

For the Sikhs it represents fight against injustice, and for Hindus a religious fundamentalism.

Source: http://www.royalsaffron.com/spirit.htm

Saffron color is color of "Tyag" .

As hinduism believes nothing is yours, everything is given by supreme lord , the emotion of "Tyag" plays important role in hinduism.

Also , when first ray of Sun arises , which brigs you in light from dark , the color of that first ray of sun is Safron .

So , Safron is the first color which brings you from dark to light every day .

Thats why Saint Dhnyaneshwar Maharaj ( Popular saint from maharashtra, Pune) took Safron flag while going to "Sanjivan Samadhi".

Whoever has become popular in Hinduism , had the emotion of "Tyag" towards material life.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj

(Founder of maratha empire) has took Safron flag as the flag of Maratha Empire.

So , while describing how Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj was , to his son Sambhaji Maharaj (of course after death of shivaji maharaj), Saint Ramadas Swami ( popular saint from Maharashtra , Satara) says : "Sakal Sukhancha Kela Tyag" i.e. By taking Safron flag in hand Chhatrapati Shivaji maharaj renunced all the material aspects in the life.

Interesting information.

I have read about the Significance of Saffron in Hinduism in an interesting blog and that was the first time i read about it.

It is amazing to know that all of the symbols and colors associated with Hinduism has a deep meaning and significance with our daily life. http://www.ishtadevata.com/blog/significance-saffron-hinduism.html

The significance is that saffron or ochre are the colors of fire.

A sannyasin has renounced the world and his sradda ceremony is performed on the day he takes his vows, and it is done in front of him.

In many places in India a corpse is covered in ochre or saffron.

As a sannyasin is now dead to the world, he wears the colors of a corpse.

Buddhist monks wear the same as they were actually started as a sect of Hinduism.

Remember that the Buddha was a Hindu sannyasin and a reformer of Hinduism.

The purest element in this creation is fire.

The colour of fire is saffron.

Because a sannyasi is also required to be pure, he adopts the colour of the purest element.

Hope this clarifies.

Quoting from quora.com Hindu saints have always been amazed by nature.

One of the biggest components of Vedas is the "Aranyakas" - experiments with nature.

Two of the most impressive things that Hindu saints found were - Sandhya (time of sunset/sunrise) and Agni (fire).

Big chunk of Vedas are about extolling the virtues of the Sun and Fire.

Hindus thought that the fire symbolized everything about us.

The fire destroys everything it comes across into a lump of ash - whether it is your precious rug or an inexpensive cloth, just as a king eventually meets the same end as the poorest pauper.

The rich burns as well as the poor.

Fire is a symbol of sacrifice and renouncing ego.

During Yajna (fire worship), we offer plenty of dear things to the fire as an act of renunciation.

The three predominant colors of sunset and agni are yellow, orange/saffron and red.

These three thus became the holiest colors of Hinduism.

The bottom of the fire is usually red (where the coal is red hot), the middle is yellow and at the top it is orange.

Source: https://www.quora.com/Why-is-the-color-Saffron-so-important-in-Hinduism-as-well-as-otherwise/answer/Balaji-Viswanathan-2?srid=u9oBe&share=d466ab33

Question: Hindu sanyasis/monks wear saffron colored robes. Is there any scriptural reasons for saffron? Or is it just cultural since Buddhist monks also wear saffron ?

What is the significance of the saffron color?

If there is any color that can symbolize all aspects of Hinduism, it's  saffron - the color of Agni or fire, which reflects the Supreme Being.  Saffron is omnipresent in all the religions that have branched out from Hinduism, including the Sikh religion and Buddhism.

Saffron symbolises Hinduism - it is the colour of Agni, or fire, which reflects the Supreme Being. It is found in all religions that have branched out from Hinduism. Saffron is the colour of the standard on Hindu temples and it represents religious fundamentalism. Hindu saints wear saffron robes as a sign of renunciation of a material life. Buddha was covered in a saffron robe when he gave up his mortal body. It is also the battle colour of the Rajputs, the warrior caste.

It is the battle colour of the Rajputs, the warrior caste.


The basic teaching of Hinduism and the scriptures of it is to not to feel guilt of past mistakes, and even the sinful of sinners can cross over the Ocean of Samasra and come out of past sins through spiritual knowledge.

Bhagavad Gita 4.36

Even if you are considered to be the most sinful of all sinners, when you are situated in the boat of transcendental knowledge, you will be able to cross over the ocean of miseries.

When one is situated on the boat of spiritual Gyana, Isvara Gyana, the spiritual knowledge burns all your Karmas into Ashes.

Bhagavad Gita 4.37:

Just as heat of fire reduces wood to Ashes, the fire of self knowledge burns to ashes all Karma This

was the statement given by Krishna paramatma in Bhagavad Gita.

From this we can understand, only way to come out of all Karmas is Spiritual knowledge !

Actually, there is one sin that is never forgiven directly by God.

An offence against a Bhagavata is unforgiveable except by the Bhagavata himself.

The episode of Maharaja Ambarīṣa and Sage Durvāsā is best example in this regard.

When Durvasa offended Ambarisha (a great devotee of Krishna who was accorded protection by Sudarshana chakra), by cursing him for breaking a fast without Durvasa's permission.

His curse and actions cause Sudarshana chakra to chase Durvasa to all corners and no deva or even Lord Vishnu would protect him.

Then based on advice from Vishnu, Duravasa sought forgiveness at the feet of Ambarisha.

Only then Sudarshana chakra stopped chasing the sage.

You can read the entire story in Srimad Bhagavatam.

https://vedabase.io/en/library/sb/9/4/ https://vedabase.io/en/library/sb/9/5/

So, Bhagavata apachaara is a great sin that the Lord will never forgive.

As per PADMA PURANA: PATALAKHANDA:

Chapter 8 Sri Rama said : 24-26.

Sin is said to be of two kinds, viz. deliberate and nondeliberate .

Deliberate is that which is done with an intention.

The non-deliberate is that committed unintentionally.

The deliberate sin is exhausted only after experiencing (the fruit of that sinful) deed.

The other one would perish through remorse (प्रायश्चित) .

This is declared by the scriptural injunctions.

Many atonements (प्रायश्चित) are declared in scriptures for variois nondeliberate sins.

Many prayaschitta are discussed here .

According to Pushpadanta, chanting Shiva Mahima Stotra will free you from all 'sins'.

Take it from here .

एककालं

द्विकालं वा

त्रिकालं

यः पठेन्नरः सर्वपाप-विनिर्मुक्तः शिव लोके

महीयते| ekakālaṁ dvikālaṁ vā trikālaṁ

yaḥ paṭhennaraḥ | sarvapāpa-vinirmuktaḥ śiva loke

mahīyate || 42 ||

Whoever reads this once, twice or thrice (in a day) revels in the domain of Shiva, bereft of all sins.

The quantifier 'all' seems to indicate there is no sin which is unforgivable.

This question is misconceived.

God does not interfere in the running of the universe.

God does not ordinarily do anything.

It is nature that does every thing.

Resorting to Prakrti, Nature, which is My own Power, I send forth again and again this multitude of beings that are without any freedom, owing to Nature's sway over them.

These activities do not in any way bind Me, because I remain detached like one unconcerned in their midst.

Under My direction and control, Nature brings out this mighty universe of living and non-living beings.

Thus does the wheel of this world revolve.

Gita 9.8–10 God will not interfere in your life if you do not want God to interfere in your life by praying or worshiping God.

The only thing God will do is to distribute the fruits of your karma.

Hence there is no need for God’s forgiveness for any sin.

What then is the Hindu idea of paapa or sin and how can one get rid of the effects of the sin?

The idea of paapa, translated as sin, is different from the Christian idea of sin.

Christian theology says that sin is an offense against God.

Hence there is need for forgiveness from God in Christian theology.

Paapa is an offense against oneself.

One damages one self through bad karma.

So there is no point in asking for forgiveness from God.

So how can one reduce paapa or sin?

How to get rid of the effect of sins Yudhisthira says,’…a perpetrated sin is expiated by auspicious acts, by publishing it wildly, by repentance, by alms-giving, by penances, by trips to tirthas after renunciation of everything, by constant meditation on the scriptures.

Of all these, he that has practiced renunciation is believed to be incapable of committing sins anew.

‘ Mahabharata Santi Parva Section VII There are two other points to discuss.

Instead of asking if there are any sins that God does not forgive, a more relevant question is if Hindus are condemned to eternal hell since that would be the implication of a sin that can never be gotten rid of.

The answer is that most Hindu Acharyas or teachers reject the idea of eternal hell.

Does God then have no role in reducing the effect of sin?

Nanda:

"But how can we obtain God's grace?

Has He really the power to bestow grace?"

Sri Ramakrishna (smiling):

"I see.

You think as the intellectuals do; one reaps the results of one's actions.

Give up these ideas.

The effect of Karma wears away if one takes refuge in God.

I prayed to the Divine Mother with flowers in my hand: 'Here, Mother, take Thy sin; here take Thy virtue.

I don't want either of these; give me only real bhakti.

Here, Mother, take Thy good; here take Thy bad.

I don't want any of Thy good or bad; give me only real bhakti.

Here, Mother, take Thy dharma; here, take Thy adharma.

I don't want any of Thy dharma and adharma; give me only real bhakti.

Here, Mother, take Thy knowledge; here take Thy ignorance.

I don't want any of Thy knowledge or ignorance; give me only real bhakti.

Here, Mother, take Thy purity; here take Thy impurity.

Give me only real bhakti [devotion].'"

The Gospel of Sri Ramakrishna, Visit to Nanda Bose's house,July 28, 1885

Question: Are there any sins that are not forgiven by God?

According to Hindu scriptures, what are some of the great sins that God never forgives?

An offence against a Bhagavata is unforgiveable except by the Bhagavata himself.


I have a relative who uses something akin to a steam box, without the steam, to control the moisture moving out of his green turned pieces.

It is like a wooden cabinet lined with plastic, with small adjustable vents like on a cheapo charcoal grill.

He allows them to stay relatively moist for a period of weeks, loosly wrapped in plastic sheeting.

There is often a wet rag or open water cup in the cabinet.

By slowly allowing the moisture to escape the pieces change shape slowly, thus avoiding cracking.

He does a final fit, finish and seal after the piece is down to something lower moisture content (I will try to find out specifically what % moisture content).

The best strategy I've seen is to rough turn, let dry, then finish turn.

The rule of thumb is to turn to a thickness 1/10th of the finished diameter.

So a 10" bowl would be rough turned to 1" wall thickness.

Then pack the rough turned bowl in shavings in a paper bag, and set it aside to dry in a controlled fashion.

Every couple of weeks, check for moisture level and/or change in weight.

The key though is consistent thickness.

I've had bowls crack when the bottom was thicker than the sides-

I assume the sides are drying faster, and therefore shrinking / putting stress on the piece until.. crack.

Another thing to consider if you're cutting your own bowl blanks-- consider taking the pith out.

In some woods, pith dries at a different rate than the other heartwood and definitely different than the sapwood.

If you're buying bowl blanks, the pith is likely already cut out.

I've only done this a couple times, but I have good luck turning a rough form (as @TxTurner notes) and then setting the bowl aside for a few months.

My technique is, I keep all the shavings from the bowl I just turned and stuff those, along with the rough bowl, into a (plastic) shopping bag that I tie off.

I'm careful to pack the bowl in the center of the bag, so there's plenty of moist shavings evenly surrounding the bowl.

I also don't tie the bag

so it's airtight

- I leave a little gap at the tie so air can circulate.

I check on the bowl every two months or so; this lets me know if I can proceed, and also helps rotate the shavings around inside the bag...

By the way, "know if I can proceed" is still a thing I'm not totally sure about.

I've taken bowls out after four months and still found them quite true when chucked up (and none of those bowls have subsequently cracked), but I'm not sure how this would work for a super-thin second turning, or very green wood, etc.

I know one turner who just puts them in the loft of a shed, and another who has a "green room" where he just puts all his turnings for drying.

I'm not sure if he just calls it that, or if he has an actual humidity-controlled green room like what some people use for growing plants.

I've also heard several turners talk about wrapping up each piece in a paper bag .

I have turned a few green bowls cross grain after turning I sand them down.

Then, I use a old micro wave oven to heat them up some, 1- 1 1/2 mins.

at a time.

then take them out, and set them on a shelf for a while to cool.

reheating them several times over a mater of days.

have had good luck with that.

Thinking of getting Wood Juice to put on some to see how that works.

but so far cutting board oil has been used with good results.

Question: I've turned a few things green on a lathe and I expected them to to do odd things, and they warped and/or cracked.    But what useful techniques are out there that this could be minimized or even controlled?  I don't know if it is possible, other than letting the wood dry to a more stable moisture content before turning it.

How can you stabilize green wood after turning it on a lathe?

The best strategy I've seen is to rough turn, let dry, then finish turn.   Another thing to consider if you're cutting your own bowl blanks-- consider taking the pith out. Some people use something akin to a steam box, without the steam, to control the moisture moving out of his green turned pieces.

Something like a steam box, without the steam, can be used to control the moisture moving out of green turned pieces. You may also consider taking the pith out. However, the best strategy is to rough turn, let dry, then finish turn.

The best strategy is to rough turn, let dry, then finish turn.

Another thing to consider if you're cutting your own bowl blanks is taking the pith out.


There are grain fillers which are often used on open grained wood like red oak to make it take a stain more evenly, using this on the end grain of a board should do the same thing.

What you are needing is a way to make the end grain absorb about the same amount (which is much less) as the face.

Using finer sandpaper on the ends will help a small bit, but the prepping grain fillers will do much better.

I've heard (but haven't verified) that if you sand the end grain with a higher grit it will match the stain of the face grain (can't confirm).

So, if you sand to 220 on the face grain, sand to 320 on the end grain.

The end grain always absorbs more finish because of capillary action in the fibers.

The only way I can think of to prevent this would be to coat the ends in something that would block those fibers, but that too would change the appearance of the end product.

This question is a week and a half old but I'll answer with what helps me.

I put thinned shellac onto the end grain of my projects which does a good job of sealing it.

It slows the absorption of stain enough to even up the color.

When I say "thinned" I mean a "one pound cut".

This is an arcane measurement of shellac concentration that means one pound of shellac flakes to one gallon of denatured alcohol.

I use an iPhone app called "Woodshop Widget" to help me dilute shellac to the proper concentration by adding more alcohol.

There are also products sold that advertise to prevent this sort of problem

but I have never used any of them.

End grain absorbs more stain/finish due to the capillary action of the wood fibers.

In red oak they act like straws and just suck up a large amount of stain/finish.

Sealing the end grain with various conditioners (glue size, thinned finish) works, but it is difficult to get the liquid on just the end grain, resulting in a blotchy look.

Sand

the end grain to 600, and then burnish it with a piece of polished metal.

This crushes the "straw" fibers, preventing the capillary action.

Question: Despite doing a great deal of sanding on the end grain, and getting it just as smooth as the rest of the wood, it always soaks up more stain than the rest, and turns out much darker and different. Is there any technique or process I can use that can match the end grain to the rest of the wood?

How can I prepare the end grain for stain, so that its final appearance matches the rest of the wood?

S0: There are grain fillers which are often used on open grained wood like red oak to make it take a stain more evenly, using this on the end grain of a board should do the same thing. Putting thinned shellac onto the end grain of my projects which does a good job of sealing it.  Using finer sandpaper on the ends will help a small bit, but the prepping grain fillers will do much better.

Grain fillers can help to take stain on end grain more evenly. Finer sandpaper is also an option, but fillers would be better. Thinned shellac is also a recommended option. Sanding the end grain with a higher grit may even out the effect between the end grain and face.


White wood is the cheap, crappy wood available at home centers, and will vary by region.

Here in Arizona, it's white pine.

I suspect it is any cheap tree that is fairly white. 'White wood' is not a species.

It is likely pine, but in theory could be balsam or aspen or a bunch of others.

I did a little looking and

it mostly confirmed that.

It can be any of a number of species that all are fairly 'white' with little strong grain showing.

That's a deliberate misuse of the poor tulip tree's name.

White wood is Liriodendron tulipifera, a rather valuable hardwood (which funnily is not white at all).

Insofar, calling the inexepensive soft wood "white wood" is somewhat misleading.

Nevertheless, in practice, home improvement centers will sell anything from spruce, fir, or pine to "coniferous wood" under the umbrella term "white wood".

In other words, you get whatever happens to be around and is cheapest, but it sounds like

you buy something valuable.

In Canada anyways, you would also see it referred to as SPF - Spruce, Pine, Fir which is used as dimensional framing lumber.

The meaning of "white wood" or "whitewood" may vary by region.

In the UK, for example, it usually means timber primarily intended for "first-fix" use where it will not be visible when the work is completed.

The species probably depends on what is available in the region but can include Spruce, Douglas Fir, Pine and so on.

Spruce seems to be most common in the UK.

There is a fast growing pine species called radiata pine that is grown in New Zealand that Home Depot sells.

They sometimes mislabel it white pine but it not eastern white pine.

Now they call it white wood.

Question: It used to be when I went to the lumber store the inexpensive soft wood was Pine.  Now they call it "White Wood", what exactly is "White Wood", I don't recall ever hearing of a tree species by that name.

What is "White Wood"?

S0: White wood is the cheap, crappy wood available at home centers, and will vary by region. It can be any of a number of species that all are fairly 'white' with little strong grain showing. It is likely pine, but in theory could be balsam or aspen or a bunch of others.  The species probably depends on what is available in the region but can include Spruce, Douglas Fir, Pine and so on. Spruce seems to be most common in the UK.

White wood is the cheap wood sold in DIY stores. It can be from a number of species depending on region. White wood can refer to pine, balsam, aspen, spruce and fir, among others. White wood can refer to pine, balsam, aspen, spruce and fir, among others.