Hmm, we're kind of hitting most of the answer but not all of it (in my opinion that is!).

Its probably better to ask this the other way round - why not use a road pedal on a mountain bike...

On a road bike you're generally going to keep your foot in the pedal, you're only going to take it out to stop so

therefore you want it to be as simple and as light as possible.

On a MTB you're liable to have your foot on and off more often, you're also likely to want to be able to stomp your foot onto a MTB pedal and have it stay there so it needs to have a larger platform area.

You could also make an argument about MTB shoes being softer but the designs tend to be driven by competition

and so that's probably more coincidence than anything else.

If we're talking about using toeclips then clearly you'll need bigger pedals and clips for MTB boots than road shoes.

And weight does matter - it may only be a few 10s of grams but a few here and a few there will add up and all other things being equal less weight will make a difference.

I use clipless pedals - which I recommend -

and I have one pair of shoes that I use on all my bikes,

some of the pedals are fairly minimal for road, some clearly MTB, some hybrid but more MTB than not and all work with the same SPD cleat.

Paradoxically my current setup has double sided pedals on the "road" bike and single sided on the MTB type pedals on my shopping bike...

So why road pedals?

Assuming clipless and further assuming that you will only wear cycling shoes then you don't need the "complexity" (no difference in my pedals) or the weight of a full platform -

so why have it?

But the real difference will be in the shoes you chose to use.

(As I final thought I actually have two pairs of shoes - one waterproof - and a pair of sandals

and they all have the same cleat so that I can use whichever is appropriate to the weather on whichever bike I happen to be out on.)

The main difference between road and mountain shoes are the stiffness.

On road bikes, the shoes are much stiffer allowing for a more efficient transfer of energy from you -> crank -> tire -> road.

When you are in a race and every tenth of a second counts, the more efficient you are the better.

On a mountain bike, you give up some efficiency, so you don't sprain your ankle every time you plant your foot.

Flexibility is better than stiffness.

You'll find many differences between MTB pedals and road pedals, just like every other component on the bike.

Here are some of the key differences: Weight.

Most road pedals are made of lightweight alloys, carbon, or plastic.

Road cyclists are more inclined to reduce weight of components than MTB cyclists.

Durability.

Needless to say, there's going to be much more abuse to a MTB pedal than a road pedal.

2-sidedness. Most road pedals can only be clipped-in on one side, whereas most MTB pedals have interfaces on either side of the pedal.

As far as I'm concerned, you should ride with whatever makes you most comfortable.

Most people will use MTB pedals because they are easier to clip into (due to the interface on either side).

I don't think the weight savings is terribly important unless you are doing some serious climbing or racing.

For most road-bikers, the difference is weight.

Modern road pedals are often much lighter weight than the typical mountain bike pedal.

The only real difference between road bike clipless pedals and mountain bike clipless pedals is weight and aerodynamics.

When you consider the fact that a bicycle and rider are going to weigh over 100 pounds (unless you're a midget on some insane carbon-fiber time trials bike) a few dozen grams doesn't make a bit of difference.

Meh, I would say if it's comfortable for you

and you don't need to conform to specific rules for competition or anything, keep doing what you're doing.

I've been riding road bikes with mountain-biking shoes for years and don't feel like I'm Doing It Wrong.

I am a big guy, so I ride with Look pedals on my road bike, because they have the largest cleat size, and the largest area to distribute my weight to the pedal.

Shoes vs Pedal style are two different issues.

I always maintained the major feature difference b/w road and MTB pedals as being single vs multi release shoe cleat.

Road pedals typically only release when you turn the heel of your foot out - hence single release cleat.

MTB pedals are multi-release (i.e. will release if you turn your foot in or out past ~45 degrees).

Dirt and mud are much more common on a MTB, but not a real concern in most road riding.

The tolerances for MTB pedals are much higher than are needed for road riding, where the pedals won't be as dirty.

Also, I find myself engaging my pedals with a MTB in much more "odd" positions compared to my road bike, which is virtually always on the flat, with one foot on the ground.

On a MTB, I might be stopped on a trail pointing any which way.

All of those things are perfectly fine on a road bike, but unnecessary.

Researching on this myself, the main reasons I've found is that more surface (road) is better for power transmission and more comfortable on longer rides, which you would also want on MTB but road cleat can be inutilized with mud or just natural soil not tarmac, so you could have problems stepping with road shoes on a MTB track terrain then trying to reclip with stuff inside cleat.

There seem to be also range of motion (lateral?)

issues, better on MTB pedals but not so needed in road.

Question: I've been riding road bikes for a couple of years, but with mountain bike pedals, I've been thinking about switching over to a road bike pedal, but what's the reason? Is the performance improved or is it more about conform?

Why is a proper road bike pedal preferred for road bikes?

On a MTB you're liable to have your foot on and off more often, you're also likely to want to be able to stomp your foot onto a MTB pedal and have it stay there so it needs to have a larger platform area. Most road pedals can only be clipped-in on one side, whereas most MTB pedals have interfaces on either side of the pedal. Another major feature difference b/w road and MTB pedals as being single vs multi release shoe cleat.

One of the main arguments for mountain bike pedals is the larger platform area. This allows toeclips to be fastened, even on both pedal sides. Mountain bike pedals also have a multi release shoe cleat. However, you should consider that road pedals are significantly lighter, which could lead to better performance. Regardless, it would be a good idea to take the terrain and road conditions into account, as they might make road pedals inappropriate for mountain biking.

Mountain bike pedals have a multi release shoe cleat.

You should consider that road pedals are significantly lighter, which could lead to better performance. More to the point, road bikes tend to have stiffer pedals, prioritizing efficiency over flexibility.

Road bikes tend to have stiffer pedals, prioritizing efficiency over flexibility.

It would be a good idea to take the terrain and road conditions into account, as they might make road pedals inappropriate for mountain biking.


Mostly it depends on where and how far you commute, and road conditions (sandy, snow, salt etc etc).

At a minimum what I do is: Daily : check tire air pressure.

Weekly :

Check brake pad wear, tire wear, clean/wipe down entire bike

Monthly :

Check chain tension, chainring/cogs for wear, lube chain, adjust brakes, oil all pivot points on derailleurs, brakes etc.

Annually : complete tear down, inspection and reassembly with synthetic grease on all bearings.

My bike service guys wrote a blog article along these lines.

You may find it useful.

The article recommends four principals for basic bike care.

These are Keep your tyres pumped If it lives outside, use it.

An unused bike exposed to the elements will fairly quickly rust & seize up Lubricate - little & often, less is more Check your cables and bring back tension where needed

Being a big guy (~400lbs), I do a lot of damage to my bikes, so I check things more often and most of the time there isn't a problem.

It's just better to double check.

So as a result, here is my paranoid check schedule:

When needed: Brake fine adjust (at the lever to maintain feel).

Chain lube.

Chain cleaning (if it has been wet out, this can be more often than below).

Clean disc brakes with rubbing alcohol.

Daily:

Tire pressure by feel ( squeeeeze

, it's like a hug for your tires!).

Brake feel (give it a good hard stab on my way out of the driveway).

Every 3 rides: Accurate tire pressure.

Weekly: Headset adjustment.

It's a quick check, takes all of 30 seconds if it isn't out of adjustment.

Visually check the brakes for any damage or maladjustment.

Monthly: Bottom bracket adjustment.

Chain clean.

Wheel bearing check.

Accessory tightness (is that rear rack still attached?).

Lube rear cog bearings with chain lube.

Every 3 months: Chain ring bolts.

Pedal bearings and make sure they're tight.

Just to Add to the already good suggestions,If you bike at night, Weekly Check headlights/backlights and Replace batteries; especially if you have a older incandescent (ie Not LED)

light

This depends greatly on the type of bicycle: a Dutch type commuter bike requires very little maintenance.

Simply checking tire pressure weekly/monthly and maybe lubricating the chain once a year will keep it in good conditions for years (with minimal repairs needed).

The reason is that very few sensitive parts are exposed to weather and outside conditions: completely covering chaincase, internal hub gear, hub dynamo, etc.

My feeling is that it does help a lot to store the bike inside or at least under a roof to better protect it from rusting.

Question: What are the periodic maintenance tasks (weekly, monthly, annual, every X miles) that anyone who relies on a bike for transportation (typically in urban/semi-urban environments) should be performing? Ideally stated in terms of miles travelled (where applicable).

Periodic Maintenance Task for Bike Commuters

Mostly it depends on where and how far you commute, the road conditions (sandy, snow, salt etc etc) and the type of bike.  The following checks are nevertheless recommended: Check brake pad wear, tire wear, clean/wipe down entire bike, headset adjustment weekly, visually check the brakes for any damage or maladjustment.   clean the chain (if it has been wet out, this can be more often than below) and clean the disc brakes with rubbing alcohol.

The answer may vary depending on average ride duration, road conditions and bike model. It would be a good idea to adjust the brakes, apply lube and clean the chain and disc breaks only when necessary. However, it is recommended that you check the tire pressure and break feel daily, while it will suffice to check the tires and pads for wear, clean your bike, adjust your headset, and inspect the breaks for damages once a week. On a monthly basis you could inspect the chain tension, check the chain ring and cogs, adjust the brakes and the bottom bracket, lubricate, and oil, among other things. You could check your lights and cables, change batteries and chain ring bolts more periodically. This may also apply for lubrication. Finally, it is not necessary to tear down your bicycle for a full inspection more than once a year.

It is recommended that you check the tire pressure and break feel daily.

It will suffice to check the tires and pads for wear, clean your bike, adjust your headset, and inspect the breaks for damages once a week.

It is not necessary to tear down your bicycle for a full inspection more than once a year.


Lubricate when needed.

I don't think it's possible to put a mile marker on when to lube.

I think most people add chain lube too often.

Too much can cause debris to build up on the chain.

Too little lube can cause unnecessary friction; but you'll know pretty quickly by the looks (and possibly sound) of it if you have too little lube.

Hints:

Wipe your chain off before you addmore lube.

[*] Is the color black?

Is it greasy?

Wipe all that schmutz off until it'slooking dry.

Add lube while rotating cranks.

Tips: Lube the night before you ride:

thisgives the lube a chance to 'spread'.

Wipe

the excess off immediatelybefore

you ride - but not until dryas above.

Wiping off the chain is best done in a work stand or while the bike is in a position where you can rotate the crankarm such that you can hold a rag to the chain while the chain is moving.

Definitely lube the bike after cleaning the drivetrain, or after riding in the rain.

In terms of adding lube in between cleanings, every week or two should be fine, more often if the drivetrain is getting noisy.

Just a few drops of lube should be enough, unless you ride on very dirty roads.

I would say that it is best to clean and lube your chain after every ride.

The better you maintain your chain the longer it will last.

To clean your chain you can either use a chain cleaning tool, I use this one from Park Tool which is excellent: The alternative is to put a SRAM powerlink in your chain: and remove your chain and clean it in with a solvent like paraffin (kerosene to Americans)

The choice of lubricant is also debatable, speak to someone at your LBS and get their recommendations for your riding conditions.

Every 150 miles sounds like an awful lot, but then I guess I don't cycle as much as you.

Little & Often" is the best advice I've heard.

I ride 250KM a week

and I give it a squirt just before my long ride on the weekends.

You can't really damage it by over lubing the chain.

Sure if you store it inside too much lube can make the chain drip.

If you do it just before a ride then no dripping in the house.

I only lube after I clean the chain.

I ride around 100 miles per week on average.

My bike has been holding up well over the years.

I clean and lube once every 2-3 weeks.

I have a couple of different lubes.

One is for dry weather and is prone to washing off if it gets too much rain or puddle water on it, it's easy to tell when that needs replacing because you can hear it squeak.

The other one is a wet lube which I tend to use from autumn to spring

but it's a lot stickier and even with a good wipe down after applying, it will collect dust, dirt and grime.

If I notice too much build-up it's time to clean and re-lube.

I will often clean with a rag, spray with GT-85 to displace water for a bit and then wipe down before applying lube as per the other posters' recommendations.

Leave for 2-5mins before wiping off the excess.

Question: I ride less than 200 miles a week, and I'm at about the 200 mile mark on my new road bike.  Most of my riding is done on the road in an urban city, so there is a lot of odd, unnatural debris.  My LBS told me to lube my chain every 150 miles, but I've read conflicting opinions.  How often should I be lubing my chain?

How often should I lube my chain?

General consensus seems to be lubricate a bike chain when needed. However, it should be lubed after cleaning and some recommend lubing after every ride.

A good idea would be to lubricate only when necessary, as too much lube may collect rubbish and too little may increase friction. Another option is to lubricate after cleaning the drivetrain and chain, even though some argue that more than once every week or two would be excessive. On the contrary, others suggest always lubricating after riding your bike.

An option is to lubricate after cleaning the drivetrain and chain, even though some argue that more than once every week or two would be excessive.

Others suggest always lubricating after riding your bike.


A technique which may help you get a more efficient pedaling stroke is an exercise called isolated leg .

With your bicycle on a trainer or on a slight uphill, unclip your left leg and pedal using only your right leg for 30-60 strokes.

Then switch and do the same for your other leg.

This exercise will give a very natural feel to how your legs should be rotating to achieve an efficient pedaling stroke.

I was told to imagine that you are trying to scrape some mud off your foot.

As you pull down from about 1 O'Clock, just as you reach about 5 O'Clock, start to pull your foot back, pointing your toes towards the ground, like trying to scrape some mud off the front of your shoe.

I am not too sure where you should stop this pulling, but I would say it is about 8 O'Clock, since by that stage your other foot should be starting to put some pressure on the other crank.

Mountain Biking is the best thing.

Was just reading a training article by Chris Carmicheal (trained Lance Armstrong) and in studies he did mountain bikers had the best natural spin.

They figure it came from climbing on loose dirt while seated to make sure you had good traction.

Another good exercise is to pedal with one foot.

I do this once a week at the end of a ride.

Only for a block or two

but it really emphasizes the lack of pedaling in a circle.

I find that the best time to practice making good circular rotations is when I am completely out of gear (doing 20mph in the granny gear, for example).

I ride a single speed, so this is pretty easy for me.

Being out of gear allows me to feel how circular my movements really are.

If I'm not pulling back at the bottom of my stroke and then up the back side, I feel the bike lurching around under me.

This helped me, maybe it can help you as well.

I certainly am no expert but some things that helped me a set of rollers (not a stand/trainer) but rollers can help smooth your motion "thinking in circles" helps as well.

Visualize the foot/pedal motion

There are a couple tools (both quite expensive though) that can help.

It all comes down to muscle memory though, the more you spin the better you get at it.

Computrainer has a spin scan to help identify flat or dead spots in your cadence.

Powercranks force you into leg isolation by disconnecting the cranks from each other.

If you are after smoothness, then pulling up may improve your game.

The concept that you need to pull with the upward-bound leg/pedal is a myth that has been perpetrated because it feels good!

It may be worth doing, for that reason, alone. ;]

But experts have found that max power is generated when concentrating on the downward leg while completely unweighting the other until it returns to the top of the stroke.

In order to smooth out your stroke, and locate the issues you are dealing with, doing hill repeats alternating one leg or the other will def help you find the weak spots in each leg's pedal stroke.

I got this trick off the Internet about ten years ago.

Can't remember where, I'm afraid, or I'd credit the source.

Imagine that your feet are really hands , and that you're not pedalling, but winding yourself along some kind of rack-and-pinion track.

Picture it, feel it, and keep that motion in mind as you pedal.

Our hands are much better equipped for the right kind of push-pull motion than our feet, so thinking of winding with your hands primes your motor cortex to keep a consistent amount of force round the whole revolution.

Stay vigilant: if you notice yourself going back to piston-pedalling, just think of hands again, and you'll soon make it a habit.

Question: I couple of years ago I switched from using a normal pedal to using a clipless pedal. It takes a little while to get used to. Now, to be able to use it optimally I need to learn how to pedal in circles instead of in squares, eg applying the same force during the whole rotation "orbit". What do I need to think of to be able to pedal properly?

How can I pedal in circles?

A number of exercises are recommended for improving pedal stroke. One technique which may help in getting a more efficient pedaling stroke is an exercise called isolated leg . With the bicycle on a trainer or on a slight uphill, unclip your left leg and pedal using only your right leg for 30-60 strokes. Then switch and do the same for your other leg. Another good exercise is to pedal with one foot. In order to smooth out your stroke, and locate the issues, doing hill repeats alternating one leg or the other will definitely help find the weak spots in each leg's pedal stroke.

A varied set of techniques might help you pedal in circles. These include exercises to isolate your legs, structured foot movements, hill repeats while using each foot in turn, and pulling up. It is also a good idea to practice with mountain biking or rollers to improve your motion. Moreover, there are some specialized tools available, like Computrainer and Powercranks. Finally, visualizing your feet as hands and moving them accordingly might help you approximate an even distribution of force round a circle.

It is a good idea to practice with mountain biking or rollers to improve your motion.

There are some specialized tools available, like Computrainer and Powercranks.

Visualizing your feet as hands and moving them accordingly might help you approximate an even distribution of force round a circle.


Saddle Bag

It may seem too small at first.

But check what I can fit in with my Specialized Saddle Bag : Two spare inner tube boxes Cell phone Keys Money Train travel card 3 tire levers Small toolset

I just picked up a Timbuk2 Handlebar Bag , and so far am loving it.

Has a nice velcro-down pouch, and attached to the bike via two velcro strips.

It is on the bike well enough to hold my daily lunch, u-lock, glasses and a few other things.

It also has straps to turn it into a fanny-pack style bag.

I actually just found this great bag that got high reviews.

Avenir Bigmouth Velcro Seat Bag .

It easily attaches/detaches.

According to one reviewer, it takes less than 15 secs.

This is large enough for my stuff and a few essential tools that were recommended here in this forum.

You might want to look into pannier bags (if you have a rack on the back of your bike).

There are all sorts of sizes, styles, and types of bags, including those large enough for groceries.

I got a pair from Walmart (I can't remember which brand) for about $25 that I use to commute to and from work.

They're big enough to carry all of my work clothes, lunch, and water plus some extra.

They're also water-resistant, which is nice when I get caught in a sudden rainstorm (happens a lot in Colorado).

I always have a spare ziploc bag to toss my phone into, just in case.

My bags hook on to the edge of the rack and have an elastic strap that runs around the bottom of the bag and the "leg" of the rack.

I have a set of bungie cords that strap everything down tight

so they don't bounce loose.

It takes me about 30 seconds to take the bags off, and mine came with shoulder straps, which makes them easy to carry into the office.

Performance Bicycle has a nice selection of pannier-style bags .

I find that handlebar bags are the ultimate in convenience.

From your description, a medium-sized handlebar bag might do the trick if you can mount one.

I love my Ortlieb Ultimate handlebar bag , but it's not a cheap item; here are some others .

FOr maximum convenience, look for something that clips onto and off of the bike quickly.

Most bike shops carry handlebar bags.

Question: I'm looking for one that attaches to your bike and easily detaches so you can take it with you.  I usually ride with a small Timbuktu messenger style bag (really small, it's about the size of a large book) and I carry my wallet, phone, keys and stuff in it.  Is there something for bikes so that I can easily attach and detach from the bike?

What is a good small bicycle bag to store your gear and/or personal things?

Saddle bags, seat bags, pannier bags and handlebar bags are all recommended for carrying gear when cycling.

The range of bicycle bags includes different types, such as saddle bags, pannier bags and handlebar bags. The Timbuk2 Handlebar Bag and the Avenir Bigmouth Velcro Seat Bag are among the recommended products.


The answer to this question is different if you are going on a long-distance tour rather than going-to-work-and-back.

If on tour and facing the prospect of a struggle to do 30 miles when you really wanted to get 100 miles in (e.g. to get to next camp-site) it can be a better idea to not bother, sit out the wind and have a go later that day/evening or the next day.

It is also important to understand weather a little bit.

The air in a valley will heat up on a sunny day and, as that air expands, it has to go somewhere.

This can lead to a tough headwind instead of an easy down-hill ride when going into the valley.

This process works in reverse, so, if planning a long distance ride and crossing valley systems it can be best to book a room in the town at the bottom of the valley rather than pitch a camp at the campsite near the top of the mountain pass.

Weather generally is more active during the day than at night so the best times for avoiding wind in a known windy place are early mornings and night.

Clearly this does not help if you are doing 9-5 but if you are doing other shift patterns then you might be able to choose your shifts so as to get a near-guaranteed tailwind in both directions, to work and to home.

If you have to ride into headwinds there are a few things you can do: Think of wind as water and imagine where the 'river of wind' is going to be slowest.

in the middle of the road the wind will not be slowed down, by the edges it will be slower, albeit marginally.

Hence, try to ride safe-yet-close to available fences and walls.

in that way you will 'not be swept away by the current'.

The sea also has an effect on wind - if following a coastal route try to find a route further inland.

The sea heats up differently to the land, this will have seasonal affects on prevailing wind direction.

Also bear in mind that most winds are from the west due to the turning of the planet.

Try to be as aero as possible - keep your elbows in.

it may not be full-aero-tuck, but, elbows in will make a difference to your overall drag.

You can also hold your handlebars a bit more in-board than you would do otherwise.

Roll with the punches.

If there is a gust of wind that is going to stop you in your tracks then you can ease up and put your pedal effort in when the gust has passed by.

Make sure you are not wearing a big balloon.

A skirt or a coat can act like a giant parachute - not what you need.

Much like how a parachute has a hole in the top to let the air out without undue turbulent effects, make sure your coat has an exit hole for the air driven in through the front.

Be seated.

When out of the saddle you present a bigger frontal area.

Use your gears rather than getting out of the saddle to get your momentum up.

Sit low.

Tiredness helps to 'fall over the bars' and have a flat back.

Pretend you have been riding all day and adopt the flattened pose that you get then, with your legs spinning and your upper body relaxed.

Draft anything you can - other cyclists, motor vehicles such as buses pulling out can give small bits of aero benefit.

If the problem is persistent on your route consider getting a 20" wheel folding bike.

This will have better aerodynamics than your MTB/hybrid, you can also fold it up and take the bus/train as far as you can towards your destination.

Also consider a saddlebag rather than a rucksack/panniers as saddlebags are the most aero bag option.

If the headwinds are always against you and your job matters more than your home, consider moving to the other side of town so your commute is with the prevailing winds rather than against them.

I deal with this at least once a week.

Yesterday I was going 18km and hour with a heart rate of 175bpm (normally that's 35+

I get on the drops on my bar to reduce my wind profile.

I try to stay on less busy streets (normally I'm out in the farm area) because the side gusts will cause swerving.

Pay very close attention to what's behind you b/c of swerving.

Get in an easy gear and spin it out.

Head winds are great 'hill like' training.

Don't ever get a disc wheel since the added surface area will just make it worse in cross-winds.

Some suggestions: Stay in lower gears and cycle at a higher cadence .

Using lower gear will help you to maintain momentum when hit by gust full on, and to retain control when hit by crosswind gust.

Keep a low profile Avoid baggy clothes

Find a cycling partner and share

slip streaming

I do my best to tack.

Kind of like a sail boat.

For example If I'm riding in the city and the winds are from the south I'll ride a mile or so south and then head east for a block or so to catch a break, head south for a mile or so and then head west a bit to catch a break.

It sure lengthens the ride but it can be good to get the short recovery periods.

If it's on bike paths or trails

I just stay low and grind it out.

Perhaps a bit drastic, but I've found wind much less of a problem after moving to a recumbent (for obvious reasons).

bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/128/Tom Hawtin - tackline

One approach is to just accept that you won't be able to ride as fast as in still air and slow down a bit!

Its certainly more enjoyable than battling hard against a head wind, especially if you aren't feeling so good and not in a hurry.

This, as well as some other tips, are included in this article: http://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/technique/six-ways-to-bear-a-headwind.html

Question: I happen to live in a windy climate. I often find myself riding against strong headwinds and sudden gusts seemingly coming from all directions at once.  What are your tactics for riding in such conditions?

Tactics for riding in strong winds

Probably the best solution to strong winds is to wait until they calm down. However, if cycling is necessary there are a few tips to follow to stay safe. Keeping a low profile and avoid baggy clothing to reduce drag. Staying in a low gear and pedalling faster helps to avoid being stalled by a sudden wind. Keeping away from busy streets helps avoid accidents caused by being knocked off course.

If the commute is not necessary, you might want to wait for the wind to subside. If it is, a strategy for driving in such weather conditions would be to visualize the wind and adjust your cycling accordingly. Try to minimize your exposure to the wind, keep away from gusts in busy streets, keep your head low, wear appropriate clothing and tack. In technical terms, lower gears and a higher cadence will help stabilize you against the wind. You could also use an alternative vehicle that is better for such conditions, such as a recumbent. From a psychological perspective, you should accept that your ride will take longer.

A strategy for driving in such weather conditions would be to visualize the wind and adjust your cycling accordingly. Try minimizing your exposure to the wind, keep away from gusts in busy streets, keep your head low, wear appropriate clothing and tack.

You could use an alternative vehicle that is better for such conditions, such as a recumbent.


For long rides of 1-3 hours, I carry the following: Tube + mini pump

(CO^2 if you want, tire leavers for new or difficult tires)

Mini tool with allen keys, spoke key and a chain tool Water Snack For longer trips, you'll want to consider panniers (carry bags) and a hydration pack so you'll be able to carry the load more effectively.

In general, advice on backpacking trips should apply.

I would take the following on a ride (mtb): Pump Tube Puncture repair kit Multitool Tyre levers Cable ties Duct tape Tyre boot material Derailleur hanger for your bike Mobile phone Cash and/or credit card Food and water (depending on length) There are also a few small things that I normally take,

that are necessary on long/remote rides:

SRAM powerlink Chainring bolt Cleat bolt Whistle If you are riding with a partner you can share the spares between you.

I typically ride with the following list - some of it

I take out depending on the ride and how well travelled the trails are:

water cliff bars/granola bars extra tube(s) tire irons patch kit mini pump multi tool pocket knife butterfly bandage ace bandage zip ties light

The lists are missing a chain tool.

I needed one once.

Also helped someone else out once.

For every ride I take: A multitool with allen keys and a chain tool Spare tubes (at least 2) Tyre Levers Pump Instant Puncture Patches (mine are from Park Tools).

I'd always use my spare tubes first though Plenty of water/energy drink

My phone, keys, and wallet Unless I know the area very well I'll also have relevant maps and a compass, and my GPS.

If I'm going somewhere remote, or for a day ride, I also take: Food (more than I will need, and some energy bars) First aid kit (geared towards cuts/bruises and breaks/dislocations) Whistle Spare batteries for anything that needs them Waterproof jacket and, in cold seasons, warm clothes

A headtorch if there's any chance that it'll get dark while I'm out

Definitely a chain tool.

And make sure it's a decent one and that you know how to use it.

This, more than any other tool has saved me from a long walk home while I've been out riding the trails.

With one you're on your way in 5-10 minutes.

Without one you're walking or, if you're lucky, rolling downhill.

It's also a really good idea to carry either a headlamp of have a light fitted on your bike if you're riding in the evening.

If you get lost or have a breakdown and spend more time than you planned you'll be glad you have this one as well.

I ride large group rides in France.

Basic tools are great, but I need to use my First Aid kit more than my bike repair kit.

A small kit should be the minimum.

Riding partner took a bad ride over the handle bars.

He broke his shoulder.

One arm sling cloth, an Ace bandage, geo coordinates from my Garmin, and a simple phone call to my wife did the trick.

She was able to come to within 100 meters of the fall to pick him up.

Each of those items made it possible for a quick extraction.

Fossdog

Question: All types of biking, mountain biking in particular: what are some must have items/gear to keep with oneself on mountain biking trips? I'm think of items such as extra inner tube, bike pump, etc...What products or items do you use? Specifics would be helpful, thanks!

What is must-have gear for mountain biking?

A small tool kit, water and food, first aid kit, a light, a whistle, waterproof jacket and warm clothes are all items recommended for taking on a mountain bike trip.

Mountain biking may require varied equipment, including a tube, a mini pump, different keys, carry bags and a chain tool. A lamp could also be useful. Besides the necessary bike gear, you could bring food, batteries and clothing. A First Aid kit is also absolutely necessary.

A First Aid kit is absolutely necessary.


Before you take any more forceful measures, it may be a good idea to think a little about chemistry: 'Rust' is typically the name put on any type of corrosion, but technically & specifically, it is the corrosion of iron (or steel) to form iron-oxides.

Although your bicycle is most definitely steel, your seatpost is not -- it's aluminum-alloy, which does not 'rust', but definitely corrodes (creating aluminum oxide).

WD-40 is a penetrating oil which is designed to, amongst other things, break up iron-oxides.

However, it is pretty much useless against aluminum-oxides, especially when they have already corroded & bonded.

Ammonia, however, is spectacularly good at eliminating aluminum-oxides.

Therefore, if WD-40 isn't doing the trick, get some ammonia, apply it in a similar fashion, and let it sit.

It may just be all you need!

This is a tough one.

It's not impossible

but you really need mechanical advantage.

If you can clamp the seatpost, you will get the best chance at freeing this.

You will probably damage/lose the seatpost with this method.

Make sure the seatpost is free ofgrease and oil on the outside.

Turn the frame upside down and clampthe seatpost into a bench vise.

Spray

WD-40 into the seattube fromthe bottom bracket opening.

It will probably be dripping rusty coloredoil out the top of the seat tube (which is now facing the floor - you might want to put something to catch the oil under there.).

Carefully hold the head tube and therear stays and try to rotate theframe on the post.

Work

it slowly and carefully beingsure not to bend the stays!

* Make sure the seat post is notrotating in the vise (if so, clamptighter)

This process can take some time.

You will need patience and lots of WD-40.

Eventually, the post will rotate in the seat tube and you will be able to work it out.

The trick is knowing how much force to apply.

Sometimes you need more than you think and sometimes you apply more than you need (which results in unwanted damage).

This difference comes with experience.

Oh

and also: grease the new seatpost well before you put it back in

- you'll appreciate it later.

You should check out the 15 Way To Unstick a Seatpost by Sheldon "Unggggghhh!"

Brown http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

Untested and at-your-own-risk, but this is what I would try: Soak the rusted join with WD-40 from above and below (ie.

flip the frame and spray down the seat tube).

Let it sit for a few hours or overnight.

Secure the frame against something solid, like a heavy workbench (not a repair stand!).

Put an old saddle you don't care much about on the seat post.

Hit the side of the saddle's nose with a hammer or mallet.

Use short, hard taps -- using wild swings you're liable to hurt yourself or the frame.

The idea is to use the torque of the saddle to break the bond between the post and the frame.

You don't need to move the post much.

If the post moves, then you should be able to work it loose without the hammer.

If it doesn't, then worst case you've destroyed an old saddle.

Cut the top off of the tube then carefully use a hacksaw blade inside the seat post to cut toward the seat tube.

A handle for a hacksaw blade works or just wrap the plain blade with a bit of tape to make a handle.

You should then be able to free the old seat post.

Or does the seat post extend way down into the frame?

Even then this should help as the WD-40 will get a better chance to reach the lower parts.

At the non-profit workshop, where I volunteer, we sometimes ream out the old Seatpost enough to stick in another, smaller-diameter Seatpost.

Especially if you don't care too much about aestetics and the seized seatpost reaches deep into the frame(at least 8-10cm, preferably more) this might be a viable option to just make the bike rideable again.

If it is less, you might be able to saw a slice out of the old seatpost(would have to be all the way into the downtube of the frame) and the crush the compromised tube with vise-grips.

In my experience, seized seatpost and their removability often boil down to how much effort and time one is willing to invest.

I had this problem with a very stubborn seat post (turns out there was a wedge in it to keep the post in).

One thing that I tried was putting a blow torch on the frame to try and expand it a bit to get the post out and loosen any corrosion.

I would only try this after WD40 has failed.

Disclaimer: this may damage your bike

there is aerosol spray available at most hardware stores called PB Blaster

it is much more effective when dealing with rust than WD=40

Try put your seatpost / saddle on the vise ( reverse the bike ) then rotate the frame for pulling out the seatpost, put WD-40 or other lubricant for before you do it....

Question: I have an old steel frame (Columbus Number 2 I think) that has the seat post (Suntour Superbe Pro - see, I said it was old!) rusted in. I have tried lots of WD-40 but it will not budge. Any tips on how I can get it out without having to cut the frame up?

Removing Seat Post rusted into downtube

To remove a rusted seat post use WD-40 or ammonia and leave to sit. Then clamp the seat post and rotate the fame to pull out the rusted seat post.

It would be a good idea to start with applying a lubricant, such as WD-40, or ammonia if that fails. To remove the seat, you could try turning the bike upside down, clamping the post and rotating it. Moreover, consider using a blade within the seat post to free the way towards the tube. It is also possible to insert a smaller seat post in the old one. Finally, you could try using a blow torch to expand the frame and subsequently remove the post

Consider using a blade within the seat post to free the way towards the tube.

It is possible to insert a smaller seat post in the old one.

You could try using a blow torch to expand the frame and subsequently remove the post.


The tread on a road bike's tires is really quite unimportant and purely cosmetic.

Road bike tires have tread patterns because they sell better, not because they perform better.

Here's some questions to ask to decide about replacing a tire:

Can you see any of the fabric?

Are you getting flats more easily than you used to?

Is any part of the tire bulging out or lumpy?

Are there visible holes/gashes in the tire?

Does the wear indicator indicate you should replace?

(Some tires have dimples or grooves that are there to indicate when the tire should be replaced.

Some have an alternate color of rubber underneath, and when that shows through the tire should be replaced)

Smooth tread is actually ideal for road conditions, but not commonly found on tires.

If you're on hard surfaces such as pavement/asphalt, the tread doesn't help you and actually slightly reduces contact area and increases rolling resistance.

On most road tires the minimal tread pattern is just cosmetic to make their customers feel better (since a smooth tire looks slippery).

See also:

Sheldon Brown's comments on tire replacement and tread patterns If you plan to ride through mud, sand or other soft surfaces, you need tread.

So when you no longer have tread on your mountain bike or cyclocross bike's tires, it's time to replace them (unless you plan to only use them on the road).

Many road tyres would have wear indicator .

Usually that would be a small hollow on the tread.

As long as it is visible the tyre is ok, once it is gone, the tyre should be replaced as that indicates that the main rubber layer is worn out, the grip is no longer that good

and it may not be safe to ride.

For the last two worn-out road tires I replaced, I've noticed a pattern in wear that seems to be fairly consistent.

This isn't a large sample size, but the tires were from different brands, and the wear seemed consistent with various comments I've seen from others.

Based on your own tradeoff between cost- and safety-consciousness, you have to decide at which stage in the wear process you need to replace the tire.

First, the tread (if present) begins to wear.

Not all road tires have tread, and in most cases it's purely cosmetic.

Then, the tire develops a flattened, almost squared-off shape instead of the round shape that a new tire has.

Next, the tire starts getting a lot of small cuts in a short period of time.

This doesn't necessarily mean there are flats or that the cuts are deep.

(After removing the tire, I could more easily see that the outermost layer of rubber was extremely thin and beginning to delaminate.

This explains why I was seeing so many small cuts.)

Finally, the outermost layer of rubber wears through and threads begin to appear.

By this point, the tire is definitely unsafe.

This process might not be exactly the same for all tire models, but I've noticed it in several of them.

Of course, even a new tire should be replaced if it develops any signs of trauma as discussed in other answers (bulges, cracks, or gashes), or if the frequency of punctures increases.

I replace my tyres when i start to get a lot of punctures.

With new tyres, i rarely get punctures, despite what i see that i cycle over.

after some time, and wear, i suddenly start getting a lot of punctures.

As a hypothetical that doesnt happen: If i dont get any punctures and i start to see the tyre fibers coming through, its definiely time to replace the tyre.

I know it meets no manufacturers or performance guidelines, but its a method that requires absolutely no monitoring and lets me get all the life i can out of the tyre.

Rubber degrades over time due to ultraviolet light damage and oxidation.

Old tires where the rubber looks dried out with lots of cracking or rubber coming away from the fabric carcass should be replaced.

Question: The treads on my road bike's 28C tires are almost completely gone—they only persist along the shoulders of the tire.  Do the treads matter?  What is a good indicator of when the tire as a whole needs to be replaced?

How do I know when to replace my tires?

Tread is not a reliable indicator of wear on road bikes as it is for purely cosmetic purposes. On mountain bikes, however, once the tread is gone, it is time to replace them. On road bikes look to signs of wear or change tire if punctures are happening frequently.

Some people argue that worn treads mean you should replace your tires. However, treads are not necessarily a decisive indicator, as they are often cosmetic and many models have discarded them. Regardless, it is recommended that you change your tires if they have signs of wear or damage, including frequent punctures. You could also advise your tires' wear indicator, if any.

It is recommended that you change your tires if they have signs of wear or damage, including frequent punctures.

You could advise your tires' wear indicator, if any.


Easiest thing to do is just cut off the old hood then take the new hood and thread it on over the bottom of the brake lever.

Some are 'ergo' and have a right and left hood so make sure that you watch for right and left hoods.

If you can't get a replacement hood, try making one yourself.

Here I have stretched a section of 26 x 1.5 - 2.0 inner tube over the brake lever.

The inner tube fits better if you cut off the tip of the "horn" of the aero levers.

With these Shimano Exage Action BL-A351 levers you can slip the edge of the rubber under the plastic front of the lever to help hold it in place.

The lump at the bottom of the dip in the brake lever is caused by a metal tab.

I'd cover that with a leftover piece of padded handlebar tape before adding the inner tube.

To avoid the seams on the surface of the rubber, try turning the inner tube inside out.

before you do anything, you should check the components documentation on shimano's web site, all the instructions are there - the hoods are quite widely available on order from bike shops although they don't seem to justify the $$ tag. if it's only sticky, just clean it with a damp cloth or with 1 drop of dish washing liquid if it hasn't been properly cleaned before.

i use mine for over 5yrs+ its very scratched now but still don't need to replace.

I think the first thing you should do is take the hoods off the bars.

Usually there is a screw or an allen key that will loosen the hood on the bar.

On my hoods this is only viable when the break leaver is pulled down.

After you loosen this screw you should be able to slide the hoods along and off the bar.

(You might need to remove the tape).

If you can't get a replacement hood, a desperate, last option "hack" is to get some cushioned handlebar tape and wrap it around the lever body.

You can use electrician's tape to hold the last end and stop the tape from unraveling.

Question: I commute daily on a road bike with Shimano Tiagra STI shifter/brake levers. The rubber hoods are pretty grimy and getting sticky, torn up and unpleasant these days. Repair and replacement of pretty much everything on my bike seems very straight-forward, but I can't figure out if these parts can even be replaced, much less how to do it. Ideas?

How do I replace road bike hoods?

Easiest thing to do is just cut off the old hood then take the new hood and thread it on over the bottom of the brake lever.  If you can't get a replacement hood, a desperate, last option "hack" is to get some cushioned handlebar tape and wrap it around the lever body. before doing anything, you should check the components documentation on shimano's web site, all the instructions are there - the hoods are quite widely available on order from bike shops although they don't seem to justify the $$ tag.  if it's only sticky, just clean it with a damp cloth or with 1 drop of dish washing liquid if it hasn't been properly cleaned before.

A simple solution would be to remove the old hood and thread a new one over the brakes. In case you cannot find a new hood as a replacement, consider making a new one or covering the lever with tape. Nevertheless, you could likely order a new hood from a bike shop or website, even though this option is expensive.

You could likely order a new hood from a bike shop or website, even though this option is expensive.


Tire pressure is generally a trade-off between three things: Rolling resistance (more pressure ==

rolls easier)

Pinch flat resistance (more pressure ==

less chance for the tube to tear when a rock squashes the tire toward the rim)

Grip (with less pressure, the tire can conform better to rocks, roots, and other terrain giving a larger contact surface) If you are riding terrain where grip isn't too much of an issue (flat or low-angle dirt and dry rocks for example), then higher pressure will keep you going fast without pinch flatting.

If you are riding steep downhills and/or on slippery open rock outcroppings, grip will be more important than rolling resistance, so use as little pressure as won't pinch-flat quickly.

There is a 4th trade-off as well: weight.

You can buy double-sidewall downhill tires that allow you to run very low pressures (such as 25psi) without any danger of pinch-flatting, but these can weigh almost double what normal cross-country tires do.

As mentioned in other answers, your tires don't have to be the same pressure.

Usually grip is more important on the front tire since most of your weight is on it while descending difficult downhill sections.

Similarly, when riding on flat or climbing, most of your weight is over the back tire, so rolling resistance and pinch-flat resistance are more important for the back.

I personally ride with a low-pressure

(30psi in a tire rated 35-65psi) double-sidewall downhill tire on the front and with a higher pressure

(50psi in a tire rated 45-65psi) cross-country tire on the rear.

I sacrifice some weight, but otherwise get the best of both worlds: fabulous grip going down and easy rolling on the flats and climbs.

Use your best judgment in going below the rated pressure of the tire, as pinch flats become more likely.

If you go below the rated pressure, be sure to test it out on hard impacts (such as a rock-corner) on easy terrain before throwing yourself at high speed down a mountain where a blow-out would be catastrophic.

Generally run what the tire says.

If you know the terrain is slick rock or really loose and will require more contact between the tire and the surface then make them a bit softer.

This will increase the chance of pinch flats though so be careful.

I almost always run my front tire a bit softer than my back since most of my weight is on the back tire.

Just something I've found that I prefer.

It really depends on that the trails are like as well as your weight.

If you are riding really flowy trails with few obstacles, jumps, or drops, you can probably ride a bit under 25psi if you are light.

THis will give you significantly more traction and control.

If you are riding trails with jumps and drops, you will want to air it up more.

With rockier trails, you will want to ride at a higher psi to avoid pinch flats.

These are the kinds of trails that I typically ride and I usually go with 30 - 35 psi in the front and 35 - 40 psi in the back.

I would say that you should run the lowest pressure you can without the tyre rolling off the rim on corners or burping on rocks.

The assumption that harder tyres have less rolling resistance is not necessarily true, here is a study showing the opposite.

[updated link, if it breaks again, search Google for "Rolling Resistance Eng Illustrated".

The document was originally written by Schwalbe Tires]

I agree with the other answers, but my strategy is to run the lowest pressure I can while consistently avoiding pinch flats.

There's too many variables to come up with a general answer (bodyweight, trail type, tire manufacturer), but I find that something in the mid-30's is safe for me (200+lbs, xc race courses).

If you want to play it safe, find a safe pressure and add 2-3 psi.

Also, always check your tire pressure, taking the few minutes before most rides keeps you riding longer.

A tip my friend showed me at the weekend was to take to take a wheel and find a pointy rock.

Lean all your weight gently onto the wheel.

If the wheel doesn't hit the pointy rock then you're not likely to suffer from a pinch flat.

If the rock easily touches the rim then the pressure is too low.

This should account for a number of critical variables such as the volume of the tyre and the weight of the rider and the reasoning that you'll hit the rock at speed or on one wheel only (normally each wheel only takes 1/2 your weight).

Some very good answers, but I think it's also worth saying that the sidewall gives a maximum not suggested pressure on all the bike tyres I've seen.

The only time I ever run my mountain bike tyres at their maximum is if I'm riding on the road and in a hurry.

None of the answers mention tubeless tires.

A tubeless tires has no tube so no tube to pinch.

The primary purpose of tubeless is for lower pressure.

Need both tubeless rims (wheels) and tubeless tires.

Can get conversion kits for regular rims.

Tubeless comes in fully tubeless and tubeless ready.

With tubeless ready you need to use a liquid sealant.

Tubeless ready is a more common.

Question: Should I run my mountain bike at the suggested PSI/Bar on the tire/rim?  Or should I run it a bit lower?  Or is it more about conditions?  Should I run lower if I am running on softer terrain?

What pressure should I run my Mountain Bike tires at?

There is no general rule for tire pressure on a mountain bike. It really depends on the type of trail you are riding, rider's body weight and tire manufacturer. A general tip is lower pressure where more grip is required.  However, care must be taken not to go too low with the pressure.

Tire pressure may depend on a number of factors, including grip, slope and road quality. In general, more steep and even routes require lower pressure, while the opposite applies for rocky trails, or roads with obstacles. While there is not a single answer, identifying a safe pressure for your bike and adding 2-3 psi might be a good idea. You could also try riding with the lowest possible pressure that does not affect the tire rim or corners, keeping in mind the increased possibility of pinch flats. Finally, you could follow the manufacturer's instructions on the tire.

While there is not a single comprehensive answer, identifying a safe pressure for your bike and adding 2-3 psi might be a good idea.

Consider following the manufacturer's instructions on the tire.

You could try riding with the lowest possible pressure that does not affect the tire rim or corners, keeping in mind the increased possibility of pinch flats.


I've seen quite a few older people in my city riding around on 3 wheeled bikes, similar to the ones shown here .

They offer quite a bit of stability, without making you low to the ground like a recumbent.

However, I can't think of how you would get one into a car.

Getting a regular bike into a car is hard enough, have you thought about a roof rack?

You almost might want to look into stabilizer wheels which can be attached to any bike, and you may be able to find some that are removable for transportation.

Check out the Hase Pino .

Tandem Bike, but built to let a recumbent rider get a full view from the front, without having to steer or balance, while the captain can sit upright with the same awesome view.

There's accessories for seatbelts or handcranks, if that's your thing.

Also, the newest models fold in the middle, so they can fit in a trunk.

On the other hand, mine doesn't fold, but it's short enough that I can just put it on a trunk rack.

Your best bet is probably a recumbent trike.

Of course this does bring up the transportation issue.

You could look at getting a roof rack or rear platform for the car which could negate the transportation issue.

Another thought would be a tandem.

If you can balance enough to keep you both up and she can manage not to fall off.

Again this brings up transportation as you'd have to have a big car (truck really) to get a tandem inside.

Really I'd look at the recumbent and roof racks.

You really should read Shelton Brown's site: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/

He was a great resource for the bike community (RIP) and you have some common threads with him.

He talks about tandeming, which would be an option for you.

A note on the bike having to fit in the car, it is possible to get racks for the tandem, it doesn't have to be transported in the car.

The other option that Shelton Brown can also speak to is the trike.

He had one before he died and has an write-up on it.

www.sheldonbrown.com/org/greenspeed/ Cheers,Chris

I found a long list here (I don't know how good or recent it is, but it is quite long, and pan-national): Where to Find A Four-Wheeled Bike or Tricycle .

The various sellers might tell you whether/how it's possible to transport them by car.

There are also second-level links, for example one of the links is to http://www.roman-road.co.uk/ which then links to http://www.tricycleassociation.org.uk/

My sister works in Cardiff and one of her part time jobs is working with severally mentally disabled adults.

She often takes them out on specially adapted bicycles/tricycles which in Cardiff there are a lot of trails and tracks to enable them to get around.

Although this does not directly meet your requirements of fitting into your van they do offer other sort of mobility bikes which you can read more about the kind of bikes that are provided here: http://www.cardiffpedalpower.org/

Question: My wife has Cerebral Palsy (CP) so can’t balance on a normal bike, what are the options so she can go cycling with me?  We don't own a van, the size of any "bike" is important as it will have to fit in a car.

My wife has Cerebral Palsy (CP) so can’t balance on a normal bike, what are the options so she can go cycling with me?

Tandem bikes, recumbents, trikes, the Hase Pino and recumbent trikes are options for partners who cannot ride a two wheel bike. A roof rack would probably be needed for transporting these.

A good option might be a Tandem bike, such as Hase Pino. Tandem bikes are easy to balance and allow full view. They are accompanied by accessories, while certain models fold and can be transferred in a car. You might also want to consider a recumbent trike. In this context, a way to solve the transportation issue would be to add a roof rack on your car.

A way to solve the transportation issue would be to add a roof rack on your car.

You might want to consider a recumbent trike.


Getting a high safety flag is common on recumbents (and trailers), at least in the US.

Photo credit

Sorry for the late answer.

The solution is to persuade your wife that she will be seen.

Obviously you can make the bike more visible, as the other answers suggest, but this is probably an emotional issue rather than a reasoned one.

She feels less visible on the recumbent.

The solution to the feeling is not so much reasoned argument as it is to start riding and focus on riding in places that she feels safe.

Try to balance that against being exposed to motorists, so look for quiet back streets and places where bike paths cross roads.

Avoid car parks because those are insanely dangerous even if they're low-speed.

If she doesn't have a recumbent yet, a velomobile might also help.

The combination of feeling somewhat enclosed and actually being surrounded by a huge blob of colour does wonders.

Not to mention the (almost always positive) comments the velo gets.

Faling that, a tailbox is a useful addition - it provides storage as well as a block of colour.

I've never had a car not see me, who would have seen a bicycle.

That said, it's crucial to bike safely and to stay where the cars are looking: in the street, not the gutter or sidewalk.

I also use a flag and reflectors.

I particularly like reflectors on my body and helmet, since we perceive body motion more easily than machine (straight line) motion.

That said, flags don't help the worst visibility problem: when a car is approaching from a side street and not looking in your lane.

Your front gears may be the only part visible, and they blend in at night.

You need to grab that car's attention, so I have reflective tape all over the sides of my pedals.

Overall, you are probably going to be safer on a recumbent than a conventional upright bike.

Remember, a conventional bike can be hidden by vans and buses.

The key thing, in my limited experience, is to stay well out of the gutter.

Refuse to be intimidated by cars behind wanting you out of the way.

Make sure you are where you can be seen.

For instance, if two cars facing each other are turning right (across the road in the UK), just hang back away from the curb.

bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/128/Tom Hawtin - tackline

I'd add that getting reflectors and a flashing tail light, along with some sort of front flasher, will increase visibility.

Get a really high and visible safety flag.

Remember that as a recumbent rider you'll quickly grow a large stomach and beard to cushion you from car impacts.

Question: My wife thinks that she can't use a recumbent on the roads, as a car driver will not be able to see it. What’s the solution?

As recumbents are low to the ground and hard to see, how to you use one safely on a normal road?

There are a number of ways to make yourself more visible on a recumbent including flags, reflectors on the rider and the bike and a tailbox. It is probably best to ride on quiter streets and stay away from the gutter and car parks. Confidence is important.

The solution might be psychological. Try riding where you feel safe, hold your ground and stay positive. It would be a good idea to avoid dangerous areas, such as busy streets, motorist lanes, car parks and gutters. You could also try increasing your visibility with flags, reflectors, a flashing tail light and a front flasher. It is recommended that you drive where other vehicles can see you. Finally, it is possible to try an alternative vehicle, such as a velomobile, or add a tailbox.

You could try increasing your visibility with flags, reflectors, a flashing tail light and a front flasher. It is recommended that you drive where other vehicles can see you.

It is possible to try an alternative vehicle, such as a velomobile, or add a tailbox.


They work ok - if you are just riding around town, they would probably be fine.

If you are on a ride out in the middle of nowhere, I wouldn't count on these.

The ones with glue work significantly better, to the point where I wouldn't buy the glue-less ones.

I've use glueless patches for a number of tube repairs and have found them to be just as durable as the glued patches.

Slime scabs suck as a permanent repair.

I think they would be fine for a temporary repair, because that is about how long they last.

Self vulcanizing cement and regular patches are still the best way to go.

I still have some scabs, but will only use them in an emergency, or when I patch my ex girlfriends tubes.

I have used the stick on patches.

The durability is conditional with proper installation.1-scuff the tube2-try and have the tube the same size as the inside of the tire.3-after placing the patch on the tube take a smooth object and rub air out from under the patch.

This is the most important step!

Glueless patches are to get you home, and glued patches are for the permanent repair once you make it home.

Personally, I carry a spare tube and glueless patches, and at home I have a nice glue kit.

The glue kits actually bind the patch to the intertube, where the glueless stick on top over the puncture.

That being said, I've had glueless patches stay on until I tossed the tube.

No!

Still the same experience as a few years ago.

Don't bother wasting your money on them (again).

My experience has been that sometimes they don't even get you home before needint to be reapplied.

Carry a spare tube and if you get a flat, take it home with you and patch it with a glue patch, or carry one of the small glue patch kits with you if you are flat prone.

I do carry them with me

but I've never patched on the road -- I always carry a fresh tube instead since most of my flats happen in wet conditions.

But I've occasionally used "glueless"

(they're actually pre-glued) patches from the comfort of home

and they've turned out fine.

I bought some once.

Never again.

The problem is that if you patch once, then have to patch again, the first patch crinkles when the tube deflates and then develops a leak because the patches don't stretch with the tube.

I use the Park GP-2 patch kit and have found them extremely durable, lasting the lifetime of the tube.

This is with 28-32mm tires and pressures up to 90 PSI or so.

I've had no problems with the Park ones that I haven't had with 'proper' ones and haven't felt the need to replace them when I get in.

Like regular ones, my experience is that if it's on, it's on and if it's still good after 24 hours then it'll last as long as the tube.

I've had some issues with getting them to stick in the rain

but I think that probably applies to all patches.

Question: Quite a few years ago I tried some glueless patches for repairing my punctured tubes while out on the road, and found that they rarely stayed on for very long.  I know that technology has advanced a lot since then, and I am wondering if I should now try them again?  Do they work?

Do glueless tube patches work as well as glue ones?

Glueless patches are not as good as glued ones. Glueless patches are basically to get you home after a puncture. Once home, a proper repair with a glued patch should be done.

There seem to be conflicting views, as some argue that glueless patches are ineffective and can only work as a temporary solution, while others claim that there is no real difference in durability if they are applied correctly. This can be tested with products like the Park GP-2 patch kit. The reply might depend on the intended use. Glueless patches are sufficient for riding in town, but not off road. Another problem that may arise from glueless patches is that they do not stretch along the tube, so it is necessary to use another patch in the event of a deflation.

A problem that may arise from glueless patches is that they do not stretch along the tube, so it is necessary to use another patch in the event of a deflation.


There are a couple of types of rim tape available: Cloth -

This has a glue backing and is very long lasting.

If you need to replace a spoke nipple, depending on the age of the tape, you will most probably have to also replace the tape since it will no longer stick to the rim.

Rubber

- This is continuous loop of rubber (stretchy) and the stretch is what holds the tape in place.

As it ages there is a tendency for the area around the valve stem hole to break.

The rubber can also perish or become brittle with age.

Plastic - This is a slightly stretchy plastic in a continuous loop that can be slipped over the outer rim.

I found that the tapes have issues as they age with cracking, particularly when you are using high pressure tyres.

You can get little splits in the tape just above the holes of the rim.

My personal favourite is the cloth tape, over time they have been the most dependable.

It is very important to get the right width of rim tape.

If the tape is too narrow you can get the tube being pinched into the rim hole, or cut by the hole.

If the tape is too wide then you can get the tyre being lifted of the rim when at high pressure (not instantaneous and leads to a huge bang).

I know you can get both the cloth and rubber tapes in various widths for the various wheel sizes, so shop around to get the right one for your wheels.

I just use electrical tape.

Been doing it for years

and it's never let me down.

Replacing a spoke means you have to replace the tape

but I've broke 2 spokes in 10 years.

Rubber rim strip is pretty stretchy stuff--and you want it to fit snugly!

Therefore, if buying rubber the diameter of your rim strip is not nearly as important as the width .

It should cover all the spoke nipples and/or the large holes drilled for the spokes, and fit well along the rim.

That said, your local shop should have some in a size that fits 26" rims best.

Alternatively, there are brands of rim strip which are not one continuous piece and are not rubber, but instead are similar to thick tape.

It's important to note the thickness--electrical tape may work in a pinch (and after a couple layers) but it's not nearly as resilient.

This type of rim strip is basically one-size-fits all and is generally considered higher quality that the rubber type.

For getting the size correct, I stick coins into the rim until I get a combination that barely fits in the slot of the rim.

Then measure the that stack.

This image is the current recommendation.

Rim ID width

+2mm (to allow for shape)Stick on variety.

I use 2 laps of masking tape.

It depends more on the make/model of wheel you have I think.

The 26in diameter is fairly standard (i.e. only small variation) but the width of the rim can vary depending on the type of wheel (i.e. trail, all mountain, race, etc).

From what I understand,a tape, such as Velox would be your best bet.

This is a premium cloth tape that has a sticky backing to it, so as to hold it in place.

If you've changed a few tubes and are using a plastic tape, you'll know what I mean when I say the tape has a tendency to move sideways on you.

Like Dustin mentioned, you really only need a tape as wide as the "spoke trough".

Any wider and your tape may impinge on the seating of the tire bead to the rim.

Hope that helps....

Question: I have a Gary Fisher mountain bike. I was changing the tube in my rear tire. The rim strip (rubber lining around the wheel to protect the tube from the spokes) had moved a bit so I went to adjust it and it broke at the hole made for the valve. I've never shopped for this part before. How do I know what size to buy? Are there different types? My tube size is 26 inches.

How do I know which size and type of rim strip to buy?

Rim tape is available in different materials: rubber, cloth and plastic. It does not seem that there is too much difference between them The most important aspect is the width: It should cover all the spoke nipples and/or the large holes drilled for the spokes, and fit well along the rim.

There are three main tape types organized by material, namely cloth, rubber and plastic. The former is enduring, and the two latter are stretchy, so you may choose according to your needs. Alternative types of rim strip include premium one-size strips similar to thick tape and electrical tape. Users also recommend specific brands, such as Velox. The former are more resilient. On a different note, the width of rim tape may depend on the wheel make and model. It is possible to select the correct size by following the standard diameter, by choosing a tape that covers all spoke nipples and spoke holes, or by fitting coins in the rim to approximate the width required.

The width of rim tape may depend on the wheel make and model. It is possible to select the correct size by following the standard diameter, by choosing a tape that covers all spoke nipples and spoke holes, or by fitting coins in the rim to approximate the width required.

Alternative types of rim strip include premium one-size strips similar to thick tape and electrical tape. The former are more resilient.

Users recommend specific brands, such as Velox.


Helmets should be replaced roughly every 5 years and after any crash where your head makes contact with the ground.

Helmets will crumble, compress or otherwise deform in sometimes hard to see ways when you hit the deck.

The structural integrity of the thing will be massively diminished after even a relatively tame fall.

This is one area where you don't want to mess around much.

When to replace a bicycle helmet: Any fall that impacted the helmet.

There can easily be hard to see cracks, crumbling or compression of the foam; and all of those will make the helmet less effective.

If you dropped it pretty hard and there's any likelihood of damage.

If the outer shell is separating from the foam.

The shell helps protect your neck.

Also, if the shell is separating it may indicate the foam has compressed.

If the outer shell has any significant scuffing.

One of the ways that a helmet protects you is by helping your head to slide across rough surfaces instead of sticking, so if the helmet surface is now rough instead of smooth you lose that protection.

The general rule is every 3-4 years or after a crash.

Some people say that excessive sweat or UV exposure can also degrade your helmet, but no one has proven that so far.

Why are you using a helmet?

If you're using it because you're doing something which involves a decent probability of you falling and hitting your head, then you should probably replace it after every serious incident.

Some companies (e.g. Giro) will give you a discount if you trade in a damaged lid , so that they can learn from its demise.

If you're commuting or doing something less dangerous, but which offers some scenarios where you think a lid will assist, then you might be less concerned about replacing after every ding.

But the helmet is designed to work when pristene; as soon as there is damage, any damage , it won't act in the way that is was designed to, so is going to offer you a sub-optimal service.

But if you're just using a helmet because you think you should, although remain generally unconvinced (peer pressure, race rules, certain state/national legal obligations, enhanced air flow around the scalp), then don't worry about it ...

Bicycle helmets are designed to absorb impact by cracking or crumbling.

The insides of the helmet may crack with no damage visible on the outside.

I'd replace the helmet as soon as you can.

If there's visible damage to your helmet, like a crack, then you should definitely replace it.

Dents, maybe, it depends how bad they are.

Better safe than sorry

right?

Inspect the helmet for damage inside and out.

If you see any cracks, then it's time to replace it.

If not, you're fine.

You don't want to risk your cranium when you could just buy another helmet.

It depends what you use it for.

The primary advantage I have from my helmet is not hitting the branches with my head, when riding in forest.

For that I don't need a new one each 2 years.

I even heard that this is actually what bike helmets were made for in the first place.

Question: I’ve fallen a couple times, but no serious damage is visible on the helmet except for a couple divots here and there.  Should I consistently be replacing my helmet after a certain amount of time?  After every relatively serious fall?

When or how often should I replace my bike helmet?

The general recommendation is to replace helmets every 3-4 years or maximum 5. They should also be replaced after any crash where the head makes contact with the ground. Moreover, cracks and scuffs on the outer shell are a sign it is time to replace the helmet. A helmet should also be replaced when it has been dropped.

Generally, helmets should be replaced every 3-5 years, or after any crash or fall that may impact them. This also applies for helmets with visible damage in their outer shell, like cracks, scuffing or loose foam. Regardless, it is also suggested that you should replace your helmet at the earliest opportunity.

Generally, helmets should be replaced every 3-5 years, or after a crash.

You should replace your helmet after any crash or fall, particularly in serious cases.

Helmets with scuffing on their outer shell or loose foam should be replaced.

Any visible damage, like cracks or scuffing, means you should replace your helmet.

Consider replacing your helmet at the earliest opportunity.


Personally I would go with the finish line wet as opposed to the dry.

Typically I use the dry if I want something that will keep my chain looking clean as well as lubricated.

From personal experience I have found that I need to reapply the dry lube more often.

I will use a wet lube, sparingly mind you, for the nastier conditions.

Having wasted your time with that I would say that storage temperature/location, how you clean the chain (method, frequency and intensity) and how you apply the lube (gobs vs. sparingly on each link) is more important than the type of lube.

My experience has been that the Wet / Dry naming of the product is a hint as to what conditions the product is designed for.

Wet lube is typically more like motor or sewing machine oil, and is designed to coat the chain and protect it in wet conditions.

Dry lube is usually a teflon lube in an evaporating or wax base, so the teflon particles stay in the links without a lot of wet "gunk" left on the chain to pick up sand, dust, grime, etc.

I use a product called 'Purple Extreme' , originally developed for offshore oil rig components.

I guess it is 'dry', because it dries on the chain (although you can use it immediately, they recommend letting it dry on first).

I've never had much luck with dry lube.

It has very low viscosity and feels like it washes off easily.

I use Finish Line Wet lube all year round.

It's cheap, widely available and clean when applied carefully.

I apply by taking the chain off the bike, cleaning it and dropping a couple of drops on each link, allowing it to soak in and then wiping off the excess.

Sounds fiddly but it doesn't take long and you get lube where you need it (inside the links) and not where you don't (everywhere else).

I'm a big fan of Pro Gold.

Year round, all weather.

Apparently the Pro Gold company got their start making lubricants for mining equipment.

So think lubricating metal in adverse conditions.

Anyway, the downside to their bike chain lube is that it can be hard to locate locally.

It's available online though.

I just recently mixed Finish Line Dry with 0.5 micron hexagonal boron nitride powder, a.k.a. white graphite.

Night and day!

And the HBN seems to add a lot more staying power.

Question: I've read a lot about wet vs dry chain lube and there doesn't seem a definitive answer on whether to use wet or dry chain lube in the winter. Some forums are full of people saying they only use dry lube because it doesn't wash off as easy, then other forums are full of people saying the opposite, for the opposite reason!  What type of chain lube is best for winter riding (water, gritted roads etc)

What type of chain lube is best for winter riding?

Most people recommend a wet lube for the chain in winter. Several brands are available on the market.

It is subjective, even though more people recommend using wet lube for winter conditions. There are a number of products available for this purpose.


Ultimately it's a trade-off between a wider range of gears and bigger jumps between those gears.

There will always be uphills that are too steep for your lowest gear and downhills where you spin out.

If you try to fix both problems with a wider range cassette (your triple already has a great range)

you may find that you're never quite in the "right" gear for all of the in-between situations.

I'm using a 11-32 cassette on my road bike (with a MTB derailleur for more capacity).

I have plenty of climbing gears but rarely use the small cogs since I spin at around 90rpm.

Like the Bay Area, there are a lot of hill around here.

But I find the jumps between gears too big (either spins too easily or too hard) so am looking for a narrower range cassette.

If you want just a bit more range for climbing, you'll need to jump up to at least a 28-tooth large cog

(you'll barely notice the difference going from 26 to 27) which might require a long-cage derailleur.

On the high end, a 12-tooth cog will be a noticeable difference over your 13.

Since you're used to a compact range you probably don't want to go with a much bigger cassette.

Sheldon Brown has a great gearing calculator that you can play with to see what different combinations will give you.

A 12-27 cassette would give you a slightly wider spread of gears.

Depending on your drivetrain you might be able to fit a 11-32 MTB cassette, though you'll probably need an MTB rear derailleur too.

The jumps between ratios on wider cassettes can be annoying, though.

It certainly sounds like you should look at going to a wider range of gears.

Your triple on the front already seems like a pretty wide range, and unlikely to easily get a wider range up there, so I'm thinking you'd mostly be looking at a wider range on the cassette.

The downside of widening your gear range will (generally) be that you'd get less fine tuning of gears inside your range.

You should definitely pay attention to the actual gear ratios.

Some careful selection (work out all your current gears and figure out what the new gears would be) could help a lot.

Right now your low end is basically 1:1 and your high end is 4.1:1.

A smallest sprocket of 11 instead of 13 (without changing from a 53) would get you to 4.8:1 for your highest gear, which is about an 18% improvement and could easily be enough to get you the higher-end range it sounds like you need.

Much more low end than that might require replacing the rear derailer,

but I've seen 11-34, etc, which would get your lowest gear down to 0.8:1.

Usually those have a specific "granny" gear on the back that's a big jump, which could still leave you with plenty of fine tuning in the rest of your gear range.

Another option to consider is a “ bottom bracket gear ”, these do not come cheap but can increase your gear range by a factor of 2.5.

I highly recommend getting a compact crank (50/34) since for the vast majority of mere mortals a 53/39 crank is too much gearing.

It's a relatively cheap upgrade (about $300).

I pair mine with a 12-27 9 speed cassette.

Around here in Seattle, I find that there really aren't any hills I can't climb with the 34x27.

For my weight (160lbs) that lets me climb pretty much anything around here, including some hills with a 17%+ grade.

However, I'm finding that I could really use some additional gears so that I can pedal an optimal cadence.

I suspect a 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25 is in my future someday when I can do 5 min climbs at 300W+.

But that's a really expensive upgrade though since that involves swapping out my 9spd drivetrain for a 10spd one.

That will happen when I get a new bike ...

Since you have a triple you already have about as wide a range as you can get on the front (for practical purposes).

Before changing the rear you would want to make sure your derailleurs can handle the increased range of teeth.

If you go to the manufacturers' websites (I'm guessing....

Shimano?)

you can look up the tooth capacity of those components.

If they will handle it, then you might be able to get a wider rear cassette that helps you.

If you like to visit very steep climb, I suggest using 50/34 for chainring and 12/27 10 speed12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,24,27 for your sprocket, or 11-28 includes - 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,2827 or 28 is very usefull if you climb more than 25% grade...

But if you have a strong power output 53/39 chainring with 12-25 includes - 12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25 should be sufficient...

I did 20% with 39/25....

so every one is unique for this sprocket/chainring selection, depends on your leg :)

Question: My road bike currently has a 27/39/53 crankset and a 13-26 cassette, both of which need to be replaced.  I occasionally find myself in both extremes—while heading up the very steep hills of the Bay Area the lowest gearing sometimes isn't enough and on much of a downhill grade my legs can't keep up in the highest.  Is it worth going to a wider range on the front or rear?

What range of sprockets is useful in a road bike cassette?

A compact crank (50/34) is highly recommended since for the vast majority of people a 53/39 crank is too much gearing. The downside of widening your gear range will (generally) be that you'd get less fine tuning of gears inside your range. Another option to consider is a “ bottom bracket gear ”, these do not come cheap but can increase your gear range by a factor of 2.5.

There seem to arguments for a wider range both on the bike's front and on the rear. Most notably, a wider cassette would require a rear derailleur, and would also entail more complicated gearing. A good, if expensive, solution might be a bottom bracket gear.


You might consider:

Arkel Bug , which works as a backpack.

Quite modern, sporty look.

Ortlieb Downtown , which has a comfortable shoulder strap.

You might check other products of those two producers, if you need a bigger/smaller cargo capacity.

Both of these panniers are very easy to attach to your bike.

Perfect for your daily commuting needs and running errands.

I've tried several options here, including specialty options like Arkel's laptop bag with a shoulder strap.

There are some things that I didn't like about carrying panniers off-bike.

The attachment hardware adds extra weight that I'd prefer not to have.

The hardware always seem to find a way to bump into my side, even when it's covered.

And finally, sometimes I just don't to immediately be identified as a cyclist when I walk into room, based on the bags I'm carrying in.(Orange bags with reflective strips

don't go great with formal attire and settings)

My recommendation is to choose a bag that works for you off-bike, and find a way to carry that bag on your bike.

For example, Clarijs makes some large size panniers that made to reside on the bike.

The would be large enough to drop another bag into: Another option is a front rack.

Workcycles has a giant, masculine box if that's your thing.

It apparently isn't getting stolen while parked on the streets of Amsterdam, so it will likely survive live in your location as well:

Cargo bikes like the XtraCycle, Yuba Mundo and bakfiets also have permanent storage capacity in the form of standard bags or boxes, and this is what I'm used to using frequently myself now.

Here's the giant Go-Getter bag, which as you can see can easily swallow several other bags with in it: Given all the above, my "off-bike pannier" is the Walking Bag by Courierware .

It basically looks like a black shoulder bag.

It's designed as a kind of small courier bag, but it doesn't scream "CYCLIST ACCESSORY" when you walk into a room due the smaller form factor.

It is however basically waterproof and easy to fill and access.

For simple, shorter trips, I can cinch down the strap and where it over my shoulder like a courier bag.

For heavier loads or longer trips, I currently drop it into my XtraCycle bag and go.

I use an Altura pannier (or both if I'm caring a lot and need the full 46 capacity), and a detachable shoulder strap that I keep in the top pocket of the pannier.

It's on the bike most of the time, but when I need to take it off and carry it round the strap is always there handy, and the rixen & kaul fittings make the pannier easy to attach/detach.

It's not quite as comfortable as a dedicated over-the-shoulder-bag (sometimes the pannier clips can get in the way as I'm walking about), but it's definitely good enough for what I need.

I have an Arkel Bug and an Arkel Briefcase , and I think that they are great.

Both have straps that can be used over the shoulders, in fact, a shoulder bag can be added to any pannier.

I use the Bug for my clothes, lunch, and tools, and the briefcase for my laptop and other work related items.

They are convenient to use easy to carry around, and Arkel makes high quality panniers.

They are pricey, but worth it.

The way that the laptop holder in the briefcase is built provides shock absorption.

It is worth noting that the backpack functionality of the bug is inferior to that of a regular backpack, there is always a metal bar on your back.

Arkel has one of the best attachment systems , it keeps the bags secure even without the bungee cord.

Jandd also makes great panniers and some of the best racks, but I found that their briefcase was poorly made when I tried it out in 2006 (same year I purchased the Arkel bags above).

They have changed the material and possibly the quality since then, so it might be worth checking out.

Another drawback is that it hangs sideways rather than 'right side up'.

I would suggest the Woodward Convertible from North St. Bags .

To be fair, I work for them, but given the nature of your inquiry and the tasks you're looking to achieve, this product is perfect.

We've designed the Woodward to work well both on and off the bike and we have worked hard to make the transition process easy and quick.

Not to confuse anyone, but we at North St. Bags also make a second convertible pannier backpack, the Route 9 .

This bag is designed as more of a long haul touring option with less frequent on and off transition than that of our other bag, the Woodward Convertible .

Depending on the nature and length of your ride, you may prefer one design over the other.

But both are quick converting options that are great sellers for us.

The goal was an uber simple design, using quality Made in USA materials, made in house in Portland, Oregon.

We sell these bags to about 60 bike shops throughout the USA.

Also we have a sizable following in Japan and we do in fact ship worldwide direct to consumer.

I got a North St Bags Woodward Convertible Pannier/Backpack and use it all the time.

It has hidden backpack straps which make it easy to wear on your back and quickly converts to a standard pannier for mounting on your rack.

Question: I'm looking for panniers. I mostly just potter around town, and am not planning any cycle touring so my main criteria is that the panniers should be easy to carry around off the bike. Built in rucksack straps or a shoulder/cross-body strap would be good. Just a carry handle would not be enough for me.

Recommendation for panniers used off the bike a lot

Arkel, North St. Bags, Clarijs, Workcycle and Altura make panniers that are also uasable as rucksacks. Another option is to buy a rucksack and then find a way to attach it to the bike. There are also cargo bikes that have permanent storage built-in

There is a number of available panniers that can be used off the bike and may be converted into a backpack or a bag with a shoulder strap. These include the Arkel Bug, the Ortlieb Downtown, the Altura pannier, the Arkel Briefcase and the Woodward Convertible aiming others. However, panniers are not necessarily mobile. You could try large panniers with greater storage capacities that are designed to stay on the bike. Cargo bikes often have built-in or fixed storage spaces, while some bikes are equipped with front racks.

Panniers are not necessarily mobile. You could try large panniers with greater storage capacities that are designed to stay on the bike. Cargo bikes often have built-in or fixed storage spaces, while some bikes are equipped with front racks.


If you're doing mostly commuting

I'd look for strength above light.

Go for something with more spokes and with a 3 cross lacing pattern.

You want something that is reliable.

Of course you weight is a consideration so there is always a trade off between that and durability.

Going with something with radial (straight) lacing up front can save weight and you're less likely to break a spoke on the front wheel so there is less chance that durability will be a factor.

Build quality is more important than brand or cost of the rims, spokes, or hub.

In response to an earlier post, you don't want to change your wheelsize.

And 28" and 29" both refer to 700c wheels (and hence are the same size).

I'd avoid anything with deep (aerodynamic) rims as the wheel will be stiffer and less comfortable.

Larger wheels are more comfortable, so 28" instead of 26", or even 29" but they need to fit your frame (you should check).

More narrow wheels will reduce rolling resistance.

Less profile in your tires will reduce rolling resistance.

higher pressure in your innertube will reduce rolling resistance. for commuting a puncture resistant tire such as the schwalbe marathon plus is very nice.

In googling this question I came across this article which shows that there is quite a difference between different tire types, also, whatever the tire type, increasing the pressure will reduce resistance (probably at the expense of some durability)

Amongst the other good advice I would recommend non-radial wheels - it doesn't save that much weight generally and is stronger; with 28 or 24 spokes you can go cross 2 .

Question: I have a commuting/touring bike and my riding is a good bit of commuting mixed with weekend rides of up to 50 miles.  In my lame knowledge, I'll assume that lighter wheels can be had when you spend more money, but what are other things to look for or avoid when choosing wheels for a non-racing bike?

What should I look for in choosing wheels for a road bike?

When choosing wheels build quality is more important than brand or cost of the rims, spokes, or hub.  Larger wheels are more comfortable, so 28" instead of 26", or even 29" but they need to fit your frame (you should check).  Advice on radial lacing is varied including cross lacing, staight lacing and non-radial wheels.

There are some conflicting views on the desired wheel characteristics. Some argue for more spokes, arranged in a three-cross pattern, some advise against stiff aerodynamic rims, and others prioritize build quality over everything else. Radial lacing is also a point of debate, as radial wheels seem to save weight and protect the spokes, while non-radial wheels are stronger on the whole. Regarding wheel size, larger wheels allow for greater comfort, but increase rolling resistance. At any rate, wheel size depends on a bike's frame.

Radial lacing is a point of debate. Radial wheels seem to save weight and protect the spokes, while non-radial wheels are stronger on the whole.