If you can't put them in the fridge, store them in a sealed paper bag .

However, what you say is not true.

They will actually ripen less quickly in the fridge.

See this answer for more tips on how to decelerate the ripening of bananas.

If you still want to prevent fruit flies you have to, shortly said: clean more often.

Here are some tips:

Keep counters

clean Fruit flies really love spilled food or juices, crumbs, etc.

Wash bananas and melons Cover your fruit bowl Control things that smell bad these include but are not limited to: drains garbage cans pet bedding litter boxes

Source: Housewife

How-To's - How to kill fruit flies (and prevent them, too)

IF you already are seeing fruit flies around your bananas, try this to get rid of them quickly: Get a glass, fill it about 1/4 - 1/2 full of RED wine.

Wrap the glass in saran (clear plastic wrap) and use a toothpick to poke about a dozen or so holes in the top of the wrap, which will allow access into the cup for fruit flies.

Put the glass with the punctured wrap right next to the bananas, or in any other place in the kitchen that you are seeing the flies.

You may want to use multiple cups.

The fruit flies will be VERY attracted to the scent of the red wine.

They will enter the cup through the holes you punched in the top, but will not be able to navigate back out.

I'm not sure why, but this is common for fruit flies.

They cannot get back out of the trap once they get in.

Chances are, the fruit flies will not be interested in getting out any way - they will be so attracted to the red wine that they will land in it, drink it, become intoxicated, and drown in the wine.

This is even better than the "Apple Cider Vinegar and Dish Detergent" method of controlling fruit flies.

In fact, I did this just last night, placing 3 cups in the kitchen (we have a HUGE swarm right now due to an undiscovered piece of food getting stuck to the sink drain).

In one cup, I counted about 11 dead fruit flies.

In the second cup, 7.

In the third cup I had 5 dead flies.

I have only seen one or two stragglers in the kitchen since then.

It really works well!

I know this question is pretty old, but we used to have a ton of fruit flies in our house, and this year we had NONE.

Our fruit of choice is peaches, and we usually buy too many to put in the fridge.

What I did is fill my sink with cold water, add 1/4 cup of white, distilled vinegar and soak the peaches for 5 min.

Then you just put them on a towel on the counter, and no fruit flies.

Very easy.

Drape mosquito netting over them, or use some similar fine mesh.

That allows air to flow and (if the holes are small enough) will prevent fruit flies from landing on them.

Just make sure to "tent" the mesh/netting so that it's not directly touching the bananas; if it's touching the netting, I'd be worried about fruit flies somehow reaching through the holes in the netting and nibbling at the bananas' peels (or laying eggs or whatever they do).

Peel the ripe bananas and store them in the freezer in a ziploc-type bag.

It's then really easy to use them as and when you need them, especially if using them in smoothies.

Ideally buy them ripe from the store so you can peel them immediately and don't have to leave them to ripen.

As Alex says, putting them in the fridge should slow down the ripening process, so I guess you can even store the peeled bananas in the fridge too.

Flair's contention that [putting bananas] in the fridge [...] causes them to ripen quickly is false, though a common misconception.

Actually, refrigerating bananas cause their peels (aka skins

--the terms are apparently interchangeable) to blacken (as explained here ), but the fruit itself keeps quite well (as explained here ).

Unless you plan on eating (or displaying :-)

banana peels, banana fruit ripens more slowly when refrigerated.

So if you're only eating the fruit, do what I do: allow unpeeled bananas to ripen at room temperature .

once ripened, refrigerate unpeeled bananas for up to 5 days.

if necessary to store ripe bananas for periods > 5 days: peel, cut, and freeze.

That being said, note also that banana peels/skins are edible!

though they require quite a bit of preparation.

Banana-peel cake is apparently popular in Brazil ; some English-language recipes are here and here .

The thing that really attracts fruit flies is when the banana tears open and the pulp is exposed.

The best way to avoid this is to separate them when they are not yet ripened; that way you won't tear open by grabbing or clasping to tear one away. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kn4p6WnGOmg&t=1s

Question: I leave bananas out on the counter, I find them surrounded by fruit flies. I can't put them in the fridge since that causes them to ripen quickly. What other options do I have?

How to store bananas and keep fruit flies away?

There are a few different ways to store bananas and keep fruit flies away, but one of the simplest will be to either store them in the fridge or peel them and store them in the freezer. You could also store them in a sealed paper bag or cover them with a mosquito net. Otherwise, you could set out a fruit fly trap consisting of a glass of wine covered with saran wrap with holes poked in it.

The options are to use the fridge (it actually slows down ripening) or a sealed paper bag, make a fly trap with 1/4 glass of red wine, soak the fruit in diluted vinegar before putting out, peel and freeze the bananas, drape a mosquito net over them or store separately to avoid tearing the peel.

Try a sealed paper bag - but the fridge is ok and actually slows down ripening. To avoid flies clean more often

Make a fruit fly trap with 1/4 glass of red wine covered in film with 12 holes in it.

Soak the fruit in diluted vinegar for 5 minutes before putting out.

Peel the bananas and store in the freezer.

Store the bananas individually to avoid tearing the peel and exposing the flesh.


The damage pictures appears to be on a bumper which is made of ABS plastic and therefore won't rust.

If it were a metal panel, a temporary fix is a dab of nail varnish.

A small dob of grease over the affected area will keep water off.

It is easily removed come the time of a proper repair and does not run the risk of further damage from overly aggressive tape adhesive.

The grease will stay put during rain.

The grease will collect road dirt as you continue to drive, but this sticks to the surface of the grease and comes away easily when needed.

Duct tape to the rescue!

If we're talking a week or two, then you are running relative low risk of getting rust.

If on the other side you want to be sure, then you need to protect that area from getting wet and have access to air, which are needed for it to rust.

Using a bit of duct tape to cover the scratch should suffice to keep it dry and limit air access.

You can even get black duct tape, if you are worried on the esthetic aspect.

Edit: Quick fix or not...

Using tape (or grease as suggested in another answer) are quick fixes, which are easily reverted.

Using glue or nail varnish (as suggested in some of the other answwers), is slightly more permanent and not so easy to remove when you want to do the real fix later on.

In essence, the main idea in most of the answers so far, is to cover up the affected area.

But be careful that whatever cover you are using, it won't create extra work when you want to do real fix (i.e. having to sand away the previous fix, when an easier wash operation could have sufficed).

If your bumper is made of plastic there is no chance of rust.

Rust is the metals oxidizing.

If it is metal a few layers of PVA glue will protect the metal and not look as bad as tape or grease.

I know of a person that put wax on a spot of rust to prevent any more water/oxygen getting to it.

He didn't get back to it for a long time, but when he finally did look at it again, the rust hadn't spread.

This was, if I recall correctly, in a protected area of the car, so might not apply as readily to external damage.

Could be a quick fix for someone, though, so I thought I might mention it.

I would use a can of spray primer, as it would not need to be removed when you do the repair.

Question: What can I use to protect the scratched part from getting rusty? I am seeking a temporary solution for a week or two till I have the time to take it to get repaired.

What is a temporary solution for a damaged car body?

To temporarily cover damage on the car body, you could use nail varnish, grease, PVA glue or duct tape, depending on how large the area is. You could also consider using spray primer as it would not need to be removed when you eventually carry out a proper repair.

If it's a plastic bumper no treatment needed, otherwise dab with nail varnish, grease or PVA glue or stick duct tape over it or paint with primer.

But be careful that whatever cover you are using, it won't create extra work when you want to do real fix (i.e. having to sand away the previous fix, when an easier wash operation could have sufficed).

Looks like a plastic bumper so no rust risk - if metal dab with nail varnish.

If it is metal a few layers of PVA glue will protect it.


Blow the dust out with compressed air OUTSIDE the building.

Word for the wise: place a soda straw or similar object between the cooling fan blades in a manner to prevent them turning, as blowing the fan with compressed air may cause the motor(s) to generate voltage and feed it back into the motherboard ...

When sitting at my desk today I emptied an 1.5l plastic bottle, and by accident squeezed it a little and let go.

This created a small, but efficient vacuum, which can be used to suck up dust and small debris.

Went to find some dust, and the following does actually work:

Squeeze the 1.5l plastic bottle Move the end close to the dust at a slight angle Release the squeeze, and as the bottle goes back to the original shape it sucks up the dust Repeat operation, but be careful when squeezing it not to blow out the dust again :-)

When executed properly it has the suction to vacuum a few peanuts!

Will the computer be thoroughly cleaned?

Maybe not, but you'll get most of the dust away, and the rest could be wiped away with some non-static cloth.

Another good method is to use various sizes of soft bristle paintbrushes, dependent on where you want to clean.

Once the case is opened, tilt the computer at an angle holding securely in one hand, and gently brush downwards in the areas you would like to clean with the other hand.

You will find clumps of dust will drop out easily, especially in areas such as the fan, and the soft bristles of the brush won't damage anything inside.

Go outside the building and use a fan to blow the dust away.

Of course, don't make the fan too strong or this might just backfire on your computer...

Use a portable fan, which are nice and small with sufficient energy but not too strong.

You could also try making your own little vacuum by using suction.

Use a handkerchief, put it over your mouth and suck the air in.

This will suck the dust in similar to a vacuum.

As a matter of fact, this was the inspiration for the first ever vacuum!

A hair dryer on the cold setting will do the job

nicely and good quality ones will even allow you to adjust the strength of the air flow.

Yes, they might not be as precise as compressed air but way more cost effective than buying cans of air and a lot safer than vacuuming in small parts.

Compressed air is perfect, but I have spent one can just cleaning one PC thoroughly.

Now I use a dust remover for SLR cameras (you can buy one cheaply in any store that sells such cameras), and it works for all heatsinks etc.

It doesn't have enough pressure to do it from 15cm, but that's never an issue.

I only use compressed air for keyboards now.

Never use a vacuum cleaner unless you can be absolutely sure you don't touch components.

The metal tube may accumulate and hold significant static charge frommoving air and dirt/dust.

Always turn off the PC by switching the PSU off, or remove the mains cable.

Then discharge the system by pressing the power-on button once.

Never use 'brushes' or anything capable of generating an electrostatic charge.

That charge will find somewhere to live, and it loves RAM and similarly delicate chips.

Question:
Say I open a desktop computer case and it's very dusty -- not an uncommon situation. However, Oh no! I forgot my vacuum! What else can I use to thoroughly clean the inside of the computer?

I considered compressed air as this is available in most offices, but simply blowing the dust in all directions will mess up my clothes and/or the person's office, so that is not an option.

How to clean the inside of a desktop computer without a vacuum

To clean the inside of a computer without a vacuum cleaner, you could take the unit outside and blow it with either compressed air or a fan. You could also consider using a brush to clean away the dust, however, some people advise against this as it can create static charge.

The options are to go outside and blow with compressed air (blocking the fan blades first), squash a plastic bottle to create a vacuum and suck the dust out, blow with a fan or suck through a handkerchief.

Go outside to blow with compressed air, but block fan blades first.

Use a plastic bottle to create suction and vacuum that way.

Use a fan outdoors to blow the dust away or suck it up with a handkerchief over your mouth.

Use a can of compressed air - not a brush as it may generate harmful static.


Origin of the taste

The taste of the water comes from dissolved minerals.

If you want to change the taste, you need to change mineral count.

There are few solutions for this: Buy a filter There are numerous water filters out there, that make your water softer.

This may also improve the taste.

Another plus is that your kettle won't get limescale that fast.

Boil

the water

I often find that boiling the water improves the taste.

This may be annoying, since you have to wait for the water both to heat up and cool off, but if you don't have other options, this is one of them.

Use tap water to create drinks based on water

You can make coffee, tea, or some sweet drinks using fruit syrups/juice.

This will cover the taste of water, so it will no longer be the case.

Side note: remember that all other options have some cost too.

Boiling may need electricity/gas, filter needs to be changed regularly, and resources for creating drinks needs to be resupplied.

If you do want to drink water and water only, you may want to calculate what's the best for your wallet.

Run the water for a moment or two before filling your glass.

There is stagnant water in your water pipes.

When you initially turn the tap on, this is the water that comes out.

If you wait a little bit, you will start getting water that is coming from the street.

It will presumably contain less non-water elements.

This is the same reason why it takes some time for your shower to become hot.

To test this, I would turn the hot water on at my sink and time how long it takes to become hot.

I would then turn on the cold water, and wait twice that duration ( just for kicks ).

If the water doesn't taste better, my idea didn't work.

Drink ice water instead of water at room temperature.

It's harder to notice the taste of the minerals when the water is cold, and cold water has a higher concentration of dissolved oxygen--

what makes water taste good--which should mask any mineral taste left over.

1 litre filtered tap water Rainwater is a lot better 1/8

tsp.

sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)

1/8 tsp.

potassium bicarbonate

1/8 tsp.

magnesium sulfate

(epsom salts)E

N J

O

Y Y Y Y Y Y!

I grew up in Russia where the tap water was not safe to drink.

We would frequently buy water bottles because some of my family were very particular with the water's taste.

However, other great solutions to the undrinkable tap water existed: 1)

Get a Brita water filter ( https://www.brita.com/ ).

I use this in my college dorm in America.

Even though Chicago's tap water is drinkable, I can taste the difference having grown up in a very water-sensitive area.

Brita filters are cheap and definitely clean the water (In one of my classes, we viewed before & after images of carbon dust used in Brita filters and it definitely physically changed while filtering tap water) 2)

Invest and buy a filtration system ( http://www.aquasana.com/ ) for your tap.

My family had this for a while before we moved apartments in Russia.

The water tastes a lot cleaner and depending on the filter you get, will vary in taste as well. 3)

If filters aren't for you, and you just want to mask the mineral taste of tap water, drinking ice-water, making other drinks (tea/coffee) or boiling will certainly help.

Boiling the water helps kill the bacterias in the water as they die near 108-degree celsius.

You can add a hint of lemon or a bit of any fruit juice you like to make it tasty.

I think it's not very safe to drink tap water as even though the municipality sends water that is drinking grade the water may get contaminated during transportation.

Put it in the fridge or just let it rest for 24 to 48 hrs in a capped, clean glass or stainless steel reservoir (if you don't want to boil it)

Well, it seems that R O (Reverse Osmosis) is the answer you're looking for.

It is the most preferred technology used by homes worldwide because of its ability to remove 99.9% of unwanted bacteria, chemicals, particles and much more.

In the process, it also rids water off all kinds of tastes and odors.

You can learn more here

Question:
My fiance detests the taste of tap water and has to resort to bottled water even though we both know that it is a waste of money.

Is there a way to get rid of the tap water taste?

How to get rid of tap water taste?

There are many ways to get rid of the tap water taste, but the most simple is probably to get a water filter. Otherwise, you could try boiling the water first and then waiting for it to cool, or you could simply drink the water with ice rather than at room temperature. Running the tap for a couple of minutes before filling your glass may also reduce the taste.

The options are use a filter jug, boil the water, run the tap a moment before filling your glass, add a bit of lemon or fruit juice, drink the water tea or coffee, install a filtration system, leave it to rest in the fridge for 24-48 hours  or use reverse osmosis.

You could buy a filter or boil the water to remove the minerals that cause the bad taste.

Run the water for a moment before filling your glass.

Drink iced water instead of room temperature water.

You could buy bottled water, a Brita filter or install a filtration system or drink with a syrup or as tea or coffee.

Boil the water to kill bacteria and add a bit of lemon or fruit juice to improve the taste.

Put it in the fridge in a covered glass or steel container for 24 to 48 hours.


It depends on the places, where the cat leaves its droppings.

Usually cats prefer places with soft and loose soil like freshly raked flowerbeds or sand.

If that's the case you can place chicken wire over the ground.

At least my cats dislike that.

An alternative is a layer of rough bark mulch.

This also prevents cats from digging holes and burrowing their droppings.

In case your neighbours' cats don't dig but place their droppings on flat ground and possibly everywhere e.g. on the green, you have to resort to other means.

There are certain substances that deter cats with their odour, available at hardware stores.

Some of them are based on plant parts which are disliked by cats others are synthetic deterrents.

Deterrents are spread on the floor where cats leave their droppings.

A major drawback is, that most deterrents are washed away by rain and have to be reapplied regularily.

I consider deterrent devices based on ultrasonic sound as inhumane to some degree, so I don't recommend them.

For difficult cases there are automatic robots with an infrared eye and a electrically controlled water hose.

While expensive they seem to be effective.

lifehacks.stackexchange.com/users/2737/Ariser - reinstate Monica

I once read that cats will walk around used coffee grounds.

Just place some piles in the places where the cat goes and it should avoid those areas.

Ofcourse you will need a lot of coffee to protect your entire garden, but it might be a start to protect some areas.

PS

: I'm told this will also keep away snails.

Liking cats I know that they like it safe and secure, donot like surprises and generally hate water.

You need to wait until you see the cat coming into your garden.

When it prepares itself to defecate, you take this : which you filled with ice-cold water and... surprise .

The range of the soaker should make it possible that the cat is notprepared .Hit

it one or two times and the cat won't bother to visit you everagain.

You should be aware that you should not do that if youactually like the cat, it will not forgive you.

A good thing I tried was planting catnip, because they like to lie on it, and so keep it clean.

It makes a flat carpet, especially after they've been lying on it.

I never tried this.

Found this question on quora, https://www.quora.com/Does-blue-colored-water-keep-dogs-away .

Some people say blue colored water help to keep away the dogs.

As per the answer, it does not guarantee it.

But it is worth a try with those neighbor cats.

Take a bottle and fill some colored water and keep it in you garden.

Another idea, just keep some air filled balloons in the garden.

When cats try to play, balloon explosion happens and cats will run away.

Try this for a few days and eventually they will change the place.

Please let us know the result of these experiments.

My mum had this problem, the cat would pop over the fence from the neighbour at certain places as they're too lazy to walk all the way round the fence - so she ran some old CDs on a string over the ground where the cat would jump down.

Stopped the cat from jumping down, so no cat in garden.

but otherwise, until someone invents a robotic water-cannon guard bot (oh I'd crowd-fund one of those!)

buy a dog?

Here's a method i've heard of, but have not yet used, as we haven't been so desperate.

Mark your territory.

Spread pee from an adult male around the perimeter of your property.

Animals will smell it and won't dare to enter.

However, people might smell it also...

You'll have to refresh it every so often.

Question:
One of my neighbours cats keeps using my garden as a litter box. This is quite unhygienic, especially for children.

I've tried shooing the cat away every time I see it, but this strategy clearly isn't working. How can I humanely persuade the cat to either not defecate in my garden or to not enter it altogether?

Given that I think the cat is mostly there during the small hours of the morning the solution needs to not required human intervention.

Humanely persuade neighbourhood cat not to defecate in my garden

To persuade a cat not to defecate in your garden, you could try covering the ground with chicken wire or bark mulch. There are also certain substances you can buy that deter cats with their odour, or you could try coffee grounds. Planting cat nip might deter them from defecating there because they like to keep it clean. More extreme solutions would be to spray the cat with cold water when you catch it or to just buy a dog.

The options are to place chicken wire, rough bark mulch, coffee grounds, balloons, coloured water or a string of CDs in the garden, to install an automatic hosing device, to douse the cat with cold water or plant catnip to sprinkle adult male human urine around the garden or get a dog.

Place chicken wire over the ground or rough bark mulch and if that fails try deterrents, including automatic hosing devices.

Put used coffee grounds in the areas frequented by the cats.

Douse the cat with cold water just as it is about to defecate.

Place a bottle filled with coloured in your garden or keep air filled balloons which will burst when the cat claws them and frighten it away.

Hang some CDs from a string and it will frighten the cat away. Or get a dog.

Spread urine from an adult male around the garden.


Whilst searching for some alternatives to support an idea of mine regarding decarbonating, I found a somewhat amusing thread:

How can I de-carbonate soft drinks?

(from the boards of "The Straight Dope").

Based on ideas mentioned there and another one of my own: Pour the drink into a larger container to increase surface area, i.e. a cake tin.

Leave for a little while, before repoured into a drinkable container Put the drink into a blender, and give it a spin.

A less amusing option, is to stir with a spoon for a few minutes Sift the drink into another container.

That is either use an ordinary sifter/sieve/strainer, or use something like a coffee filter Either of these options should agitate the drink and decarbonate it.

In terms of practicality, I would opt for the latter one.

Especially if at office or at home.

At office you need to a get a little sifter, but they are readily available.

Adding a teaspoon full of sugar will get rid of carbonation quickly; you will of course have a slightly more sugary drink.

Use a vacuum wine saver.

This is a product that has a bottle cap with a valve and a pump.

It is intended for pumping the air out of the top of a wine bottle to keep the contents fresher

but if you've ever actually made wine you'll probably know that you have to degasify it before bottling and you can use one of these.

Put the cap on bottle with the drink in and keep pumping until you see no more bubbles coming out of the liquid

Put a frying pan on the stove, pour the soda in, and crank the heat.

The frying pan will preferably have ridges in it ( it wont be an exactly flat surface ).

By the time the soda is boiling, it will be pretty darn flat ( a minute or so? ).

You don't really need to boil it, bringing it to 60 degrees Celsius will probably suffice.

A carbonated drink is one that has had carbon dioxide ( CO2 ) dissolved into it.

This is generally done by forcing CO2 into it via pressure, and this is the reason why air ( CO2, in fact ), is pushed out of the bottle when you open it.

The word "dissolved" is key, as it speaks about the solubility of the CO2 in the liquid.

Temperature greatly effects this solubility, as the temperature increases, CO2 solubility decreases.

If you think about why boiling water creates bubbles, this makes sense.

Oxygen is not as soluble in hot water as well.

Water near its freezing point can contain the most CO2.

As the temperature increases, this amount drops significantly.

However, it is not a linear drop, and by about 50-60 degrees Celsius, the curve is leveling off.

As KalleMP states, you don't really have to bring it to a boil.

However, what kind of life hack is it if you're holding a thermometer in your hand?

There is also the fact that a freshly opened bottle of soda contains more CO2 than the atmosphere, so the CO2 will escape even from ice cold soda.

Increasing the exposed surface area of the soda will increase the rate of this escape.

The bubbles that form inside your glass are doing so at places that actually contain microscopic air bubbles ( think porous ).

The CO2 will rapidly collect in these points, and larger bubbles will form.

These are the bubbles that you see coming off the side of your glass.

So, high temperature, surface area, pores...

I'm going to go with boiling it on a frying pan.

Being a big tea-drinker, I have 1,5l glass containers with wide openings.

Simply pour your drink into a large container from a decent height.

A bottle of half a liter will bubble up to the top, but once settled down again will be devoid of carbon dioxide.

Depending on the drink, container there might still be a tiny bit of fizz.

My girlfriend stirs her drink with a raw wooden spoon.

This can also work with a bamboo stick but since it has less surface area, it takes a little longer.

It's still quick enough, after about 3-4 stirs it will be completely decarbonated.

A warning, however, don't fill your glass to the top, because when decarbonating, it creates bubbles and there's a chance the glass will overflow.

I couldn't believe how well it worked the first time I tried it.

I don't know exactly why it works so well, so if someone can explain it, please do.

Question:
I prefer a lot of fizzy drinks when they have gone flat. What is the most efficient way to decarbonate them?

I've repeatedly shaken and opened bottles, left caps off, stirred, but I wonder if there's a more efficient way.

What is the quickest way to de-carbonate a drink

There are many different ways to decarbonate a drink. You could first consider boiling it or raising it to around 60 degrees Celsuis on the stove. Alternatively, you could give it a stir for a few minutes with a teaspoon or even a wooden stirrer. You could also consider using a sifter/sieve/strainer, putting it into a blender or pouring it into a larger container to increase the surface area. Other options include adding more sugar or using a vacuum wine saver.

The options are to leave the drink to stand in a large container, put it through a blender, stir with a spoon, add a spoonful of sugar, use a vacuum wine saver to pump out the gas, warm it in a pan or pour it into a large container from a decent height or stir with a wooden spoon or bamboo stick.

Pour the drink into a large container and leave to stand, put it through a blender, stir with a spoon or pour through a strainer.

Use a vacuum wine saver to pump out the gas.

Pour into a large container from a decent height.

Stir with a wooden spoon or a bamboo stick 3-4 times.


Many types of make-up are oil-based, so just use mineral oil (or even vegetable oil) to remove it.

Put the oil on cotton, facial tissue or face towels.

(Just be careful to wash a cloth immediately, as oily rags are a fire hazard.)

You could use fancy prepared oil-based skin cleansers, but vegetable oil is kinder to the skin.

Avoid harsh cleaners.

Baby Oil works very very well and is very safe to use without questioning its application.

I use coconut oil.

I am allergic to ingredients that are in most skin creams on the market.

Coconut oil is a natural product andis good for the skin.

Depends how sensitive you are - most eye make up removers are oil based, and they make my eyes swell up.

I just use facial wipes, the ones sold for general make up remover, and clean eye make up off with those too, works fine.

I always choose Johnson's Dry Skin ( http://www.amazon.co.uk/Johnsons-Face-Makeup-Moisturising-Wipes/dp/B00G3JNU8Q ) ones because some of the other makes (L'Oreal, Olay) cause a reaction.

Not sure if you can get them where you are, otherwise, Simple facial wipes.

I suggest you to use organic products You can use olive oil, vinegar with water, instead of the harsh chemical ones on your skin.

You can even make your own makeup remover just refer to the video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bMSKRpiUZWE

You can easily find the items on your household.

Question: What else can be used (that's not harsh on skin) to remove make-up besides liquid make-up remover?   Make-up such as:   Eyeliner  Mascara  Eye Shadow  Blush  Foundation

What can be used to remove make-up?

The answer to this question will depend on how sensitive you are, but since most types of make-up are oil-based, many different oils will work as an effective make-up remover. You could try mineral oil, vegetable oil, coconut oil or even baby oil. Alternatively, you could simply use facial wipes.

The options are to use a mineral oil, vegetable oil, baby oil or coconut oil with cotton, facial tissues or face towels, or to use facial wipes such as Johnson's Dry Skin or organic products.

Use mineral oil or vegetable oil on cotton, facial tissue or face towels.

Use facial wipes - I recommend Johnson's Dry Skin.

Use organic products such as olive oil and vinegar with water or try making your own makeup remover.


Inspired by this post, I tried using some cardboard from a box of pasta.

It worked pretty well.

I don't think it will last forever, but there is plenty more cardboard produced through normal purchases.

Fold the box flat by open the ends.

Mold the box into a curved shape similar to that of a shoehorn. Insert into shoe, and your foot should slide in to the shoe.

I think a box of macaroni might work best based on the width; something around 3-4 inches is ideal.

In general most items which are reasonable flat and narrow can be used as replacements for a shoehorn.

Items like rulers, a suitable stick, large wooden spoons, or similar items.

If you are in a real pinch, you could use other kitchen utensils, like pie cutter, sausage tongs.

Anything long and flat could do.

On an alternative approach, you could try using your belt.

It is not as sturdy, but usually they are easily found and accessible.

Just insert the belt end into the shoe, and use as normal.

After you finish your yogurt (or pint of ice cream), cut the plastic container vertically into a medium-wide strip and trim off the bottom.

Bend the strip lengthwise to fit into the heel of the shoe.

A dollar-bill sized strip of polypropylene (PP) will lay flat on a closet shelf patiently waiting for your next application.

It will fit into your hip pocket, wallet, or bag.

It works wet or dry, and can be used for other things that a bobby pin can't.

It's one of a few great MacGyvers* to have with you.

*MacGyver is a different kind of hero: he doesn't use weapons, he's afraid of heights, and he's an expert at making complicated machines out of ordinary things quickly.

I use about 6-8 Business Cards -- right size and shoes slide on.

Generally have that many in my wallet...

A plastic bag can be used.

Just fold it lengthwise till it's about the inside width of the heel, place it in position while holding one end and slide foot into shoe.

It's easy and it does work.

Cheers.

I use a piece of letter paper, fold it in half a couple times to the shape of a shoe horn and it works very well.

I would cut a plastic bottle of the correct size / shape

B"HHey, I'm new here and have been using a Credit Card as a shoe-horn for years.

I just came online to see where I can share the info... and did a search - and this thread came up.

A credit card works like a GEM as a shoe horn.

Just make sure to position in on the inside corner of your shoe/foot.

In lieu of a CC - for not-so-tight shoes - use a regular business card.

Best, - Chayim

I have resorted to pens for this often in the past and found they worked about as well as fingers, minus the pain.

Try carrying a pen or having some pens by your door.

You can also try two pens, or add a finger next to the pen if needed.

I can’t believe no one has mentioned using a toilet paper roll.

After you finish that next roll of toilet paper, don’t throw away the cardboard roll,;..

Just slice it in half and now you have two shoe horns!!

Brilliant

Question: The title says it all... I need something to use instead of a shoehorn.  I tried a spoon but this does not work well.

What can replace a shoehorn?

There are a whole range of items that you can use instead of a shoehorn. Cardboard, such as from food packaging or old toilet rolls are a good choice. Similarly, you could consider using business cards or a credit card. Other options include cutting up a plastic bottle or yoghurt pot, using folded up letter paper or using a plastic bag.

The options are to use cardboard from a pasta box, any flat narrow object such as a ruler or your belt, a strip of plastic cut from a yoghurt container or bottle, a stack of business cards, a plastic bag, a folded sheet of paper, a business card or a toilet roll cut in half.

Use the cardboard from a pasta box, folded over.

Use any flat narrow item such as a ruler or a wooden spoon or even your belt.

Use the plastic from a yoghurt or ice-cream container, cut into the right shape.

Use 6-8 business cards one on top of the other.

Use a sheet of letter paper, folded up in the shape of a shoe horn.

Use a strip of plastic cut from a plastic bottle.


One way to take off your pullover is to start lifting it at the hip, and then kind of rolling it over your head, and finally pull out your hands.

This method does however require you turn the pullover inside out afterwards.

As you lift it from the waist, instead of pulling it directly off from the top, any garment under usually stays put.

You could tuck the t-shirt in your pants during the operation for extra protection, but most often it isn't necessary.

Put your shirt into your pants Take off your pullover Pull your shirt out of the pants If the shirt is still moving up put your shirt round about into your pants.

Just a simple trick :)

You could: Take your arms out of the sleeves first.

Then you can use your hands to keep your shirt on better.

You can use one hand to keep it on and use one hand to take it off.

Or you can push the shirt down or tuck it in and pull the pullover first.

For these methods, if you are wearing a long sleeved shirt you can grab your sleeves so they don't come off.

Tips: Have a size shirt that fits you.

To tight can be the difference in your shirt coming off.

Loosen the shirt from your other shirt first before attempting to take it off.

Sometimes the shirts can get stuck together and they come off together.

Get someone to help you, if you think that it is going to be a really hard job.

This may look weird, but you can always do it in a bathroom or away from the public.

First, I lift up the sweater just below my chest area so my shirt is exposed.

Then, I move over towards a table/ledge of some sort, pin the shirt between my body and the ledge, and pull off the rest of the sweater.

You can also, if for some reason there are no desks, tables, ledges, etc., lean against a wall and pin your shirt to it (curve your back or lean, if necessary).

Describing it makes it seem a lot harder than it is, but usually you can find a desk or something to do it on.

This is how I always take my sweater off without pulling my shirt up: Pull arms from sleeves so they are inside.

Then place fingertips below chin with palms facing in.

Then lift sweater over head, while forearms and elbows push out from around waist, so shirt doesn't come up.

Sweater ends up in front of you with your arms inside.

Question: Every time I take off my pullover the t-shirt below it comes up too and that's not really good looking. Is there a way to avoid this?

How to only take off your pullover without the garment below it?

One way to remove your pullover without also removing your shirt is to start at the hip and roll it over your head. Another trick could be to tuck your t-shirt into your pants first. Additionally, you could take your arms out of your sleeves as a first step. Other useful steps include making sure that your t-shirt fits you well and loosening it from your pullover before taking off the pullover.

The options are to lift the sweater at the hip and roll over your head, take your arms out of the sleeves first or lift to chest level then lean against a desk or table to hold the shirt in place before removing.

Lift it at the hip and roll over your head, tucking your t-shirt into your pants if necessary.

Take your arms out of the sleeves first and then remove it, or go to a bathroom or somewhere private.

Raise the sweater to chest level then lean against a desk or table to hold it in place before removing.

Pull arms up from sleeves and then use hands to lift sweater over head.


Use 95% pure ethanol, sold in liquor stores as "rectified spirits".

Just a small amount is all you need.

Slosh it around the container and it will pick up every last speck of water and evaporate it, leaving the interior of the container bone dry.

Caveats: (1) Do not use 70% alchohol, that will not work (2) Do not use "denatured" alcohol under any circumstances.

It contains a solid chemical called denatonium which tastes terrible and which you do not want to be in your container.

My solution for storing multiple Camelbak bladders for long periods of time without any mold or mildew inside is to fill them with water and then make sure ALL of the air is bled out before storing.

Mold and mildew need air to grow so

if the interior has no air or bubbles of any kind, presto!

Nothing will grow!

Just fill the bladder with water then flip it so the hose is at the upper end of the bladder and jiggle until all the air is at the base of the hose.

I then use the mouth piece to suck out all the air.

If you're going to store it for a really long time, do it again until there is absolutely no air inside.

This absolutely works perfectly.

I've been using this method for years.

Since there are narrow spaces at edges, it may not be practical to completely dry it.

However, if you rinse with dilute chlorine bleach or water with a treatment tablet, and then pour and squeeze out as much as possible, there should be enough residual chlorine to prevent algae or fungus growth.

What i do is flip it upside

down(where the water hole is facing downward) and stick a couple napkins inside overnight

and it usually does the job.

I dried mine out all I could with kitchen roll then filled it with some more and left it opening-down in the airing cupboard for a day or so.

Maybe not the best way

but it seemed to work for me

I would follow the instructions here, under Product care.

http://shop.camelbak.com/reservoir-dryer/d/1125_c_326_cl_924 Also, buy one of those things.

I don't actually own or use a camelback.

I just used the internet.

You can insert the tubing inside the container such that opposing walls don't touch and leave it open for a day or two till all water is evaporated.

Question: The  Camelbak  is an useful piece of equipment for long outdoor hikes, cycling trips, and camping trips. It stores water in a pouch, with a tube to drink out of.    But that's my problem:   After I'm done using it, how can I dry out the tube and pouch quickly and well, so that it doesn't mold (or get gross!)?

How to quickly dry out a Camelbak?

lifehacks.stackexchange.com/users/9561/Numeri says Reinstate Monica

There are number of different ways to dry out a Camelbak. Once method involves rinsing with 95% pure ethanol. Another method is to rinse with dilute chlorine bleach or water with a treatment tablet and then squeeze out as much as possible. Finally, instead of drying, you could simply store it full of water, having made sure that all the air has been bled out before storage.

The options are to rinse with 95% pure ethanol, fill with water and remove all air, rinse with chlorine and squeeze out.

Rinse with a small amount of 95% pure ethanol.

Fill with water and make sure all air has been removed before storing.

Rinse with chlorine bleach and then squeeze out.


I used to use a heated nail.

Simply, hold it with pliers, and heat its tip up for a minute or so on the stove fire.

Keep your belt stretched firmly (you can hold one side of the belt under you foot, and the other side with one of your hand, while the other hand is holding the pliers) and point the nail to the spot you want to make a hole, and push into the belt.

It makes a small regular hole very easily.

I see many sources on the web mention the nail with a hammer.

No need for a hammer, heated nail held firmly with pliers, can make the hole you want.

Use a power drill with a small drill bit the size of the hole you want.

Put a piece of scrap wood under the belt first.

After the drill bit penetrates the belt, move the drill up and down to clear out the chaff from the edges of the hole.

(if you don't own a drill, you could go to your local home depot - they often have test drills...be discrete....

or...somewhere near you a neighbor probably has one)

Careful usage of a sharp pointed knife can easily cut you another hole in your leather belt.

Mark out where you want the new hole, and put the knife at the marker and rotate gently.

Soon you'll have your extra hole.

In fact most thingies with a sharp point can be used if you are in a real pinch.

I.e. one end of scissors, kitchen knives, screw drivers, or even a key if you are a little persistent!

Of course the sharper the better...

A lot of shops will punch one for you.

You could go to a shoe repair shop or a menswear shop and ask if they can punch the hole for you.

i used a screwdriver bit in an electric screw driver.

worked like a charm :)

Melted a screw banged it in tongue belt with a hammer holding the screw with garden shears that don't work and done deal......

my husband thinks I got the neighbour who is a pro DIY to do it !!!!!!!

For many years, I've used the awl point found on many multitools ( vis. Leatherman) and multiblade pocket knives.

I just use pressure on the belt's metal tongue to make a mark, then take off the belt and drill through with the awl point by rotating back and forth.

Once it pierces through, a few additional rotation strokes will enlarge the hole enough for the tongue to push through readily, and you're good to go.

I generally use the pointed end of scissors for punching a hole into my belt.

Once, it manages to pierce to the other end, start rotating it, while simultaneously drilling in; until the hole of desired size(or diameter) is punched in.

If the scissors isn't sharp enough, then using the hack suggested by @Hawk

Question: I don't want to invest in a leather hole punch, so how could I add an extra hole (or some other solution)?

Adding a belt hole without a leather punch

There are a number of different ways of punching a new hole in a belt, but one simple method involves using a heated nail. Another effective method uses a power drill with a small drill bit or an electric screwdriver. A sharp knife, pocket knife or even a pair of scissors can also be a good way to do this. Alternatively, you could go to a shoe repair shop and ask them to punch the hole for you.

The options are to use a heated nail and pliers, a power drill, a sharp pointed knife or scissors, an electric or manual screwdriver, the awl point on a multitool or go to a shoe repairer and ask them to do it.

Use a heated nail, held in place with pliers.

Use a power drill with appropriate drill bit and place a scrap of wood beneath the belt.

Use a sharp pointed knife, scissor blade, kitchen knife or screwdrivers.

Go to a shoe repair shop or a menswear shop and ask them to punch the hole.

Use the awl point on a multitool such as a Leatherman.

Use the pointed end of a pair of scissors in a rotating movement.


A 50 lb bag of dog food inside a sleeping bag or large laundry bag may provide a satisfying impact without significant risk of hand injury.

Failing that, a well-stuffed bag of laundry can also sub for a heavy bag.

Either one can be upgraded with a printed photo or drawing of a face taped on.

Following are two different types of punching bags .

To mount them onto a base, you could use a similar method as mentioned before, with a PVC pipe and an old parasol stand, or maybe you even have a small (but bigger than a gallon) water tank and could fill that one up with sand.

Probably simplest punching bag Get a rice bag.

Fill it with rice if it isn't already.

Do not punch without gloves.

You could still wrap it with duct tape to make it even more durable.

Using old clothes or grocery bags Get a laundry bag or (at least) two garbage bags.

Fill it with (shredded) old clothes (hoodies, jeans, etc.) or stuff it with a lot of crumpled up plastic grocery bags.

If you use garbage bags I recommend covering the bag with one or two layers of duct tape.

To be sure, you can also wrap the laundry bag with duct tape.

To protect your wrists, also use gloves when punching this bag.

Be creative!

Use this as inspiration.

You can basically use any type of bag or stuffing.

It's just a matter of how hard you like your punching bag, or in this case, punching dummy.

If it does not have to be human-shaped, you can just prop up your mattress against a wall.

Since it's soft, you can punch it out to your heart's content.

A wall also does nicely, I've found the pain of your fist crashing into hard concrete quickly relieves any frustration.

Roll up a carpet onto a PVC pipe (or onto a tall wooden cylinder, if you like hard center) and secure it with some duct tape.

Take a lot of duct tape and cover the whole thing with duct tape to make it tighter and more durable As a base, use a big bag of sand or an old parasol stand if you have one around.

Whatever you use, make sure it is well joined.

As a reference, see this YouTube Video .

I used to know a martial arts expert.

He turned the newel post at the bottom of his stairs into a target by padding it heavily.

He used it both for kicking and punching.

He would attack it every time he went past.

lifehacks.stackexchange.com/users/9368/chasly - reinstate Monica

A large pile of dough is perfect for this activity.

Satisfying smack, safe soft material, and then the opportunity to enjoy a meal afterwards; pizza dough would be preferable for the post-workup meal.

Most commercial punching bags are simply canvas cases containing a large amount of tightly packed rags, sometimes with a bit of something heavy packed in the middle for added weight.

you could achieve something similar using old clothes, towels etc for filling, and a large bag/sack (e.g. hessian sack, sleeping bag) to hold them.

You could get an old camping tarp and fill it with bags of flour, or even some dirt.

It will have a good weight to it, but won't be overly solid, and if you don't have the tarp, looks like you can pick one up at Wal-mart for $10 - $15 (in the US anyway).

If you go the dirt route, you would have the added benefit of the manual labor which could potentially help to de-stress as well, if you're that kind of person.

The problem with dirt, however, is if you end up getting rocks in it.

Might hurt to punch

Also, you can punch two pillows combined.

However , it may not be useful for training.

Maybe just for reducing the stress level.

Question: I'd like to punch something like this to destress:   I don't have one though. What general household items can I put together to allow me to do the same?   Moderator note:  "Mind hacks" are off-topic here. This question is about a  substitute-tool  for a punching dummy, not about reducing stress. Please answer accordingly.  Thank you!

What can I punch?

There are many, many ways to put together a punching dummy, but a 50lb of dog food inside a sleeping back could work well. Additionally, a laundry bag full of old clothes would also be an effective solution. You could also try a mattress propped against a wall, a rolled up carpet or even heavily pad the newel at the bottom of your stairs. Other potentially solutions include tarp filled with dirt or flour, or even pizza dough!

The options include a 50 lb bag of dog food wrapped in a sleeping bag, a parasol stand with a rice bag or 2 garbage bags stuffed with clothes on top, a mattress propped against the wall, a roll of carpet, pile of dough, padded newel post or camping tarp filled with dirt or sacks of flour.

Use a 50 lb bag of dog food wrapped in a sleeping bag or a large laundry bag.

Use a parasol stand as a base and a rice bag or 2 garbage bag filled with old clothes as the bag.

Prop your mattress against the wall, or just punch the wall to relieve stress.

Roll a carpet onto a PVC pipe and secure with duct tape.

Pad the newel post at the bottom of a staircase and use that.

Use a hessian sack or sleeping bag filled with old clothes.

Use an old camping tarp filled with bags of flour or dirt.


it is fairly easy, just dip a finger in oil, tap out excess oil and touch the earhole with oiled finger.

that much oil is sufficient to ease out the wax.

do not try to force the wax out.

it will just move out.

Here where I live, liquid paraffin (aka paraffin oil) comes at pharmacies in small (100ml) plastic bottles.

They have small neck, so the oil drips as you squeeze the bottle.

That's two birds with one stone, as paraffin also is the oil you should be putting in your ear in the first place.

My husband's ears produce a lot of wax and, as told by his doctor, he adds a couple of olive oil drops in his ears once a week.

I usually perform the task with a teaspoon (well clean).

We know the drop is inside because he can feel it.

I do mess up from time to time, it is not a problem, just clean it with a tissue.

He is able to add the oil drops with the teaspoon by himself if I am not at home, just practice.

Good luck, you are not alone.

I've had good success with Debrox .

It's only $5.

Hydrogen Peroxide is the active ingredient in OTC ear wax removal solutions.

You will fill it "fizzing" but don't worry that's what it's supposed to do.

Just keep your head to the side so the H2O2 has time to sit in your ear for a minute or two to break up the wax.

P.S. hydrogen peroxide is just water with an extra Oxygen molecule lightly attached

Maybe use a q-tip and dip it into oil, then reach it to your earhole.

The amount of oil can be adjusted based on how much of the q-tip you dip in oil and how you place the q-tip inside/at opening of your earhole.

You can use Syringe without needle.

Fill syringe with water and ask someone to spray into ear 25-30 times.

(Don't let water stay inside your ear for long)

Remove dirt with cotton if comes out.

Question: Similar to  this question  but I'm actually wanting to remove wax from the inside of my ear.  The doctor told me I should put drops of oil in my ear to soften the wax before they can clean it. What is the best way to get a couple of drops of oil into my ear without making a mess? Preferably with products anyone has at home.

How to clean excess wax out of my ear

It is fairly straight forward to get a couple of drops of oil in your ear, but there are a couple of different ways to choose from. You could simply dip your finger in some oil and touch your earhole with your finger. Depending on the bottle that the oil comes in, you may be able to directly squeeze it into your ear. Other possible solutions include using a teaspoon, a syringe without a needle or a Q-tip.

The options are to dip a finger in the oil, use a 100ml bottle of paraffin oil, use a teaspoon with oil, use Debrox, hydrogen peroxide, a q-tip dipped in oil or a syringe filled with water.

Dip a finger in the oil, tap off excess and touch the ear hole.

Use a 100ml bottle of paraffin oil with a narrow neck.

Get someone to do it with a teaspoon, or try yourself.

Use a syringe without the needle filled with water.


Another trick: make an evenly roll, lay it down in a S-form and push it together.

It works quite well after a bit of practice.

Main advantage: you can add more "loops" to make 4, 5, and more parts.

The roll needs to be thinner and thinner, so there is some natural limit to it

but even I with my all-thumbs hands can manage up to 7.

You could measure it out using your hand.

Roll out the dough to be close to the width of three hands, and then cut each piece at the width of your hand.

It is fairly easy to make an even roll, and the width of your hand is fairly constant, so that should make for three closely sized lumps of dough.

Added: Another variant using a measuring trick, is to first make an even roll, then use the tip of your digits(/fingers) not including the thumb to make a line of dots along the length of the roll.

Then you can count the dots and divide by three.

Why not using the simple fact that cos(60°)

= 1/2 ?

Put your dough in the form of a circle, make sure you know the centre point.

From there you draw a horizontal line to the right, and in the middle of that line, you draw a perpendicular line up and down.

Like this, you find two points, one above and one beneath.

Together with the outmost left point of your circle, this forms the edges of the third parts you are looking for

(I'm trying to find out how to attach a picture to this answer)

Here's an old math trick that makes dividing dough into thirds easy.

Flatten your dough into a bit of a disk and mark the center point as a reference.

Find a convenient object with an "edge" that is slightly larger than the radius of your dough and flatten your dough a bit further until it is about that size.

(You can use a ruler, but I find an index card or a spatula edge to be about right)

Using that edge as a reference, you can "walk" the outside of the circle, marking off equal lengths as you go.

When you're done, you will find six equally-spaced marks along the ouside of your dough which will form the points of a perfect hexagon.

Cutting from the center of your dough to every other point you made should divide the dough into equal thirds.

Try fashioning an equilateral (all 3 sides of the same lenght) triangle with the dough.

Make sure it is level (height needs to be uniform).

Then, simply cut the dough in half from each angle of the triangle (so 3 cuts).

You'll get 6 pieces of equal mass.

Add these pieces 2 by two and you get 3 pieces of equal mass.

[EDIT, since it was requested in the comments

, here's a little addendum : if you don't want 6 pieces, simply don't make cuts all the way through in length.

Stop cutting at 2/3 of the length between the corner and the opposing side of the triangle (see picture).

You really don't need to be accurate there.]

The solution doesn't remove the need to be accurate, but makes being accurate easier (the geometrical form will favor accuracy, as it is more visual than simply guessing the size of each piece).

Choose any other geometrical form if you need to make more pieces (a square for 4 pieces, etc...)

Start with a square.

Divide it into four sub-squares.

Set aside three of the sub-squares.

Divide the remaining sub-square into four sub-sub-squares.

Add one sub-sub-square to each of the three intact sub-squares.

Divide the remaining sub-sub-square into four sub^N-squares.

Continue the process until one of the remaining sub^N-squares is so small that you don't care if it isn't perfectly divided into thirds.

Assuming that you can split the dough in half accurately: Split the dough into quarters in three steps.

Save three doughs.

Repeat step 1 with the leftover piece.

Add a new piece to each saved dough.

Repeat step 2 until you feel comfortable with splitting the remaining piece in three.

Add the pieces to your doughs.

You will have three equally sized doughs within your margin of error.

Divide to three pieces arbitrarily, then just cut away and eat slices from the currently biggest part until all three pieces are equal.

Question: I occasionally find myself with a lump of dough which I want to divide into three equally sized pieces (like for making 3 pizza bases). I could weigh it but it typically means getting the scales out and dirty and having to cut pieces off and re-knead them into the dough. Eye-balling kinda works but sometimes I'm a fair bit off.  So I was wondering if there is a nice technique which doesn't require additional tools like a scale to divide a lump of dough into three equally sized pieces?

How do I easily divide dough into thirds?

There are many tricks to help divide dough into even thirds. One simple trick involves rolling up the dough and fashioning an S-shape which you then push together to create three even lengths. Other more advanced methods involve fashioning a triangle and cutting through the centre from the points or using the radius to mark out a hexagon which would then be cut into even thirds or sixths by cutting through the centre. You could also roll out the dough to be three hands wide and then use your hand to measure the thirds. Alternatively, you could split the dough into quarters, set three pieces to one side and then repeat with the remaining piece until you feel comfortable splitting the piece into three.

The options are to make an S-shape, squash into lines and divide, measure out in hand widths, make a circle and divide into six then double up, divide into quarters and split one of the quarters between the other three or make an equal triangle and cut in half from each angle to get sixths and then double up the sixths.

Make a S shape and push it together to get three equal lines and then cut each one off.

Shape the dough into a circle, draw a horiztonal line to the right and then a vertical line perpendicular to the horizontal line. The dough to the right of the line will be 1/6 so repeat the process on the left to get 1/3 and divide the remaining dough in half.

Shape the dough into a circle, mark oout six equal segments and then double them up to make thirds.

Shape the dough into an equilateral triangle then cut in half from each angle to get six equal pieces which can be double up to make thirds.

Split into quarters, take one of the quarters and add a third to each of the other three quarters.


Maybe you could attach the remote to something big so that it's easier to find if it gets lost.

If you're using smart TV and it is connected to the same WiFi of your device, or it is capable of Bluetooth then you can try apps that can substitute your remote control .

Dijit - Uses Bluetooth, WiFi iRule - Uses Wifi RedEye

- Like Dijit Rē - IR Dongle

I think you can try tie/glue/tape a piece of string to it and tie the other end somewhere near your couch, or wherever you sit to watch TV.

If that dangles too much, maybe you can try fixing one of those retractable lanyard thing to your remote so it doesn't still end up at random places because it will retract to that one spot.

Attach a keyring finder to it.

In general, avoid the whistle-activated ones, I find they're too sensitive and go off randomly.

I'd probably go for one that doesn't use a remote , otherwise you're going to end up with a recursive problem.

My favourite would probably be one activated by smart phone.

Activated by button rather than by sound, and you can always ring your phone if you've misplaced that!

How does one attach it to the remote?

Depends how aesthetically pleasing and how technical you are.

Least effort - duct tape, and plenty of it!

Most effort - might involve removing the key parts of the finder and hiding them in the battery compartment.

Some middle ground might double sided tape or similar.

Rather than attaching something to the remote, make a place for it that is more attractive/easy to use: Various places sell sofa-side magazine holders, or trays.

Have one of these on the most useful end of the sofa.

Use tape to mark out a silhouette of the remote (or remotes, as many of us have) and tag it with the name of the remote.

This should help encourage usage.

To further help, why not gamify the process, with points for each member of the family who places the remote correctly or loses points for failing to do so.

Top points at end of week wins a prize.

Your main problem seems to be that you're the only one with a bit of discipline, and you're the only one who wants to put it in a given place.

In other words, the issue is much more than just having a good place to put your remote control.

You either need to train other members of your household to return it

/place it somewhere, or you need to work around the problem and be able to relocate it when they've misplaced it.

In my experience both cases are hard, as it is not easy to train/force those who don't want to be trained.

Best option related to training is to invent/enforce a system which they'll see as a benefit without any extra work for them.

It could work to have a given place, which is close to the favourite position for using the remote control.

On the other hand, finding it when it is misplaced requires some sort of locating device, such as key ring finders, or attaching strings or other large objects (makes it impractical to move it :-) ).

Overall, I would say that your best option is either to talk to your household members and see about finding a really good place to put it, and/or for you to consider if you can control the equipment by other means

so you don't have to find it when the others have misplaced it.

The latter one can be achieved by having an extra universal remote control for your use, or having a remote control app on your smartphone, if that is possible with your equipment.

I'd say the best answer to this problem is to buy another, identical remote for your use.

Keep it locked, or hidden away.

If the rest of the household loses their remote, it's their problem.

They will soon miss you finding it for them, and maybe they will then learn amongst themselves to place the remote in a designated spot when not in use.

I use self-sealing Velcro touch fasteners bands that I put on the back of the remote control and on the element

it is related to (pedestal of the TV, body of the iPod docking station, table, etc).

Then, this system only needs discipline to work : you take the remote control, you use it.

Once you are finished, you put it back on the Velcro band.

Some smart phones have infrared transmitters that can directly control TV (and other remote controlled entertainment equipment).

My Samsung Galaxy S4 does this; with the correct app it'll do anything the cable company's universal remote will.

Even better, with a Samsung TV, I have access through wifi to play content from the phone on the TV and access the smart TV with the phone as a control pad, which is much nicer to use than the TV remote.

Get duplicates.

I have 3 copies of the remote control for my cable set top box.

The cable company actually sends them out for free -- all you need to do is ask.

What I tried was attaching a red lace/ribbon or any red string.

I make sure it is red so I can easily find it.

Question: I seem to be the only one in my house capable of putting the remote in the same spot.    How can I solve the "I can't find the remote problem"?

How can I prevent the remote control from getting lost?

There a many potential solutions to this problem. Firstly, you could attach the remote to something big so that it's easier to find if it gets lost or even attach it to a string so that cannot be moved far. Alternatively, there are apps available that enable you to use your smartphone instead or you could attach a locator key-ring to it. As a last resort, you could also buy duplicate remotes.

The options include attaching something big to the remote, using a phone app to control the TV, tying the remote to the sofa with string, attaching a keyfinder, nominating a specific location for keeping the remote, buying a second remote, tying a red ribbon to the remote and encouraging a more disciplined attitude at home.

Attach the remote to something so big it's easy to find.

use an app on your phone to control the TV.

Attach a piece of string to the remote and tie the other end to your sofa.

Specify a place for keeping the remote and gamify by awarding points to family members who remember to use the place.

Encourage a more disciplined attitude in your home, backed up with incentives.

Buy a second remote and keep for your own use every time someone else loses the other one.

Get a smartphone with infrared transmitter that can directly control the TV.

Get duplicates - cable companies usually provide them for free.

Try attaching a red lace of ribbon to make the remote more visible and easier to find.


I ended up using a power antenna from an old Volvo in the scrap yard.

When it extends, the door opens, and when it retracts, the door closes.

The antenna is powered by a 12V AC adapter, while the trigger wire is connected to a relay.

The relay closes when power is sent to it from a WiFi smart plug, which means I can set schedules based on time and/or weather, and can even control it from my phone!

Since you do not worry that the chickens will be outside when you choose to have the door closed, as they are most likely inside

already I have one suggestion to you:

An automatic trap door.

If you make a sliding door which can be hoisted upwards, then you can have an active lifting mechanism to lift it in the morning, and release it down again in the evening (or automatically drop if power fails).

This will also spare you the trouble of making sure it is properly shut, as gravity will keep it shut, and you can lift it a suitable amount using some electric motor.

Such devices can surely be bought, but should not be to hard to build if you are somewhat handy yourself.

Depending on needs and wants, you can choose whether to make it fully automatic or if you want to have some remote control for it.

Both are feasible, although not easily described within a post like this.

One option springing to mind is to have a timer giving power to a lifting circuit which would spin an engine lifting the door until it touches a circuit breaker when lifted high enough, but not releasing the tension on the spinning device until power is shut off (by the automatic timer).

Build a door similar to this on the picture below; It is similar to the small doors for pets found on exterior house doors.

I am not sure if the chickens will push the door with their heads to enter inside or go out.

If this is the case, then you can put a sensor and a second stepper motor to open and close the door.

Don't forget to wire the sensor also to the timer.

I bought one of this timers to use with my boiler.

They are around 15-20$ on aliexpress.

For the stepper motors, look inside of the old CD/DVD ROMs or Scanner / Printers.

I don't think they are expensive.

I think you can find sensors online.

They must be cheap on sites like ebay or aliexpress.

Note:

You may ask how to limit the rotation to 180*.

Well, it may be done by setting the speed of the motor.

The timer is not second-sensitive.

The minimum time range between the On and Off is 1 minute.

So the door should complete the 180* rotation in one minute.

I know it is not easy to do without using electronics.

install a small roller door (pedestrian size) with remote controlled opener.

Have a cat flap type arrangement and add a small latch that is released with a small 5V solenoid.

Fit a over large 24V solar panel (with LDO voltage regulator) to release the solenoid catch at dawn

(orient the panel wisely towards winter dawn)

even if overcast.

After the first hen is through the door you can have it stay open until roosting time when you swing it closed, as the sun sets the latch will lock at which point the hens are secure.

Make the door open outward to deter visitors if roosting is before sunset and you have closed up but lock is still open.

Solar panel should be pointing away from sunset side so unless you have bright overcast the panel should be receiving little evening light.

As a added benefit your night time security visit may allow you to unlock door to peek inside by illuminating solar panel with your torch.

You can use some kind of controller to automate this task.

For example Arduino.

But you need some programming experience to do this.

You will need an electric motor which will move the door in both directions (open/close).

And some sensors (like Hall effect sensor) which will detect if the door is closed or opened.

The door can be controlled with a timer or a sensor (photo resistor/transistors) which detects if it is day or night (depending on the light).

Question: Every morning I walk outside to let my chickens out of their coop. Every night, I need to lock them back in to keep them safe from predators. Is there something I can rig up to automate this?

How can I automatically open my chicken coop door in the morning?

There are many ways that you could automate a chicken coop door. This could include using a power atenna from an old car or a stepper motor, either of which could be triggered by a Wi-Fi smartplug. You could install a roller door with an automatic function or even install a door with a 5V solenoid which is controlled by a solar panel.

The options are to buy or make an automatic closing device, to fit a door the chickens can open themselves (with a timer to control when then can), fit a cat flap with a solenoid to open at dawn and close at nightfall, fit an automated roller door or use a controller such as an Arduino that can be programmed to open and close at specified times.

Buy an automatic closing device or make one using e.g. a car's power antenna.

Fit a door that the chickens can open and close themselves and a timer to control when they can do it.

Fit a small roller door with remote control.

Fit a cat flap with a solenoid to open it at dawn.

Use a controller such as an Arduino and program it to open and close at the right times, powered by an electric motor.


Science to the rescue!

3M makes a type of insulating window film similar to saran wrap but thicker and designed to be applied with a hair dryer so it shrinks to be perfectly clear around your window frames.

At about $15 for 5 windows, it fits your cost parameters too.

Home-made pelmets Heavy curtains are a good start if you can afford them, but if you already have curtains or blinds of any kind, adding pelmets will make a significant difference.

Pelmets reduce convection currents, whereby air coming into contact with the window surface cools down, falls to the floor and pulls more warm air down past the top of the curtain, ad infinitum.

With such a tight budget, making your own pelmets is probably the best option.

Google "home-made pelmets" for some instructions.

(You could also try "box valance" instead of pelmet.)

Here are a couple of examples: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-save-heat-money-and-energy-with-easy-pelm/ http://www.thecreativityexchange.com/2012/11/how-to-diy-a-pelmet-or-box-valance.html

The old standby for this was "temporary storm windows", for houses that lacked custom-fitted storm windows.

A storm window overlays the window frame on the outside to prevent exterior air (along with rain, snow, etc.)

from directly contacting the single-pane sashes; it provides some insulation (less effective than modern multipane glass, but much better than nothing), as well as physical protection (storm windows were often shatterproof acrylic plastic).

Temporary storm windows are a simple clear plastic sheet (plastic drop cloth, plastic tarp, etc., as long as it's clear), held in place by a strip of lath on each edge, which is stapled or brad nailed to the window frame.

The clear plastic provides an airflow seal, some trapped air insulation, and physical protection (less so than acrylic sheet, but still much better than nothing), and is very inexpensive: they used to sell kits in hardware stores, but you can buy clear plastic sheet, lath, and brads cheaply at the big box home improvement stored.

These are disposable; removing them in the spring destroys at least the plastic.

They're cheap enough, however, that that isn't a big deal compared to the heating fuel savings.

Long term, you're best off if you can afford to have the windows replaced with proper multipane glass -- but temporary storm windows are a good, cheap, short term solution that worked well for many years before the current solution was available.

I've successfully used pieces of bubble wrap trimmed to fit the glass, with no gaps at the side.

You can wet the smooth side of the bubble wrap with soap/detergent and water, and simply stick it to the glass.

Light transmission is a little reduced, but the view is obscured significantly.

The cost is probably $0, and you can layer this solution with curtains and other suggestions.

I've seen my grandmother put saran wrap on the windows of her old lakeside house in the winter.

When I traveled in New Zealand where most of the houses seemed poorly insulated, I saw a lot of people put saran wrap on their windows for the winter.

Basically, they would stick the saran wrap directly to the glass in order to cover its entire surface.

One really effective way is to add a new pane to the windows.

This can be done as a temporary storm window as suggested by Zeiss Ikon on the outside, or it can be done on the inside.

If done on the inside it doesn't demand that much work securing the new pane as the weather doesn't have access to it.

This also means you can use simpler arrangement for attaching the extra pane.

So my suggestion would be to buy acrylic glass/plexiglass (4mm?), which can be bought at reasonable prices, and simply use a saw to fit them to the inner frame of your window.

This extra layer between the real window and the extra pane will give you some extra insulation.

And if done properly, you can easily reuse the panes the following year.

Depending on your handyman skills, you could also attach a simple frame for easier handling.

"Curtains" is too short an answer

so I added these extra words.

(some curtains are very light fabric that allows some light).

Put weather stripping on moving parts, and then apply a special plastic film over the window area, trapping a layer of air between it and the window.

Check out " How to Weatherize Windows with Plastic Film Insulation" from Green Dream , for a simple demo of how to do this cheaply.

Question: As winter approaches in the Northern hemisphere, one can feel the cold air near interior windows.   How can I reduce the amount of heat lost through windows?  Essential criteria:   cost must be less than $100 for multiple windows  must not block all light  must be either removable and non-damaging or allow for opening of windows come spring   Related:  Seal a window Temporarily (in monsoons)

What is a cost effective way to eliminate heat loss through windows?

There are a few different ways of preventing heat loss through windows, and one traditionally way was to install "temporary storm windows" which are a simple clear plastic sheet, held in place by a strip of lath on each edge. You could also consider installing another pane of glass. Other feasible solutions include sticking bubble wrap or saran wrap to the inside of the windows.

The options are to attach additional plexiglass panes inside or outside the existing windows or to cut out sheets of bubble wrap or other film to stick to the windows.

Attach an additional external or internal plexiglass window to all your windows.

Cut out bubble wrap sheets and attach to the windows.

Stick saran wrap or other film to the windows.


Get an old VHS tape at a thrift store -- should cost less than a dollar.

Be sure to select the kind with a snap-closed clamshell case, not those that just slide the cassette into a sleeve.

Pull out the tape and discard it (or watch it, if you have a VHS machine and found a title you like).

Put the book where the tape was, close the case, and your book is protected.

Get hold of some of the cardboard folders/envelopes/mailers that Amazon and similar companies send books out in.

These are specifically designed to keep books from damage.

It will add a little to the weight of your backpack but so would almost any other solution.

If you don't have any yourself, ask around.

A lot of people keep them for recycling or re-use.

Bibliophiles tend to build up a surplus and would probably be glad to let you have a few in various sizes.

Alternatively, get an electronic reader!

In my experience it pays for itself quite quickly and it certainly allows you to carry many books at the weight of one.

I have used cereal or granola bar boxes and cut the ends off of them.

Many of the larger snack boxes are bigger and you can fit a few books in there.

They don't last a terribly long time, as they themselves get banged up (instead of your books!)

but they are cheap and easy to replace!

You can tape them with duct tape for higher durability.

Put the books in a big plastic cover or kit.

Put this cover/kit in your backpack.

This will not add much weight to your backpack.

The simplest thing to do would be putting the book in the bag with the spine facing down and nothing above it between two solid items.

Beyond that, you can use something like a lunch box or Tupperware.

I would take a few lengths of fabric (sewing) elastic and sew or glue them in a grid fashion to the side of the backpack that is along your back.

The vertical strips should end a fa inches above the base of the backpack and all the strips should be far enough apart to allow the book to slide in with some stretching.

If you carry a laptop or tablet: buy a protection sleeve for the tablet and slide the book in it as well; usually, the sleeve leaves enough room to squeeze in a book without leaving wiggle room.

Maybe you could also wrap it in a piece of cloth and secure it with a safety pin?

Also, there are dedicated book bags which may offer some protection, such as this random example from Amazon.

Stationary shops might offer plastic foil to reinforce the cover of the book (another random example from Amazon).

Cover your books with a makeshift newspaper cover or clear plastic wrap which is available for especially covering books

O r Protect the spines and corners by taping the corners with thick tape like them electrical ones

Question: I always like carrying books around but at the same time I hate getting the corners of the books bent over time and I try to keep them as perfect as possible.  Given that most of my books are paperback editions and that I usually carry them around in a backpack, how can I transport them without bending the corners and damaging them?  I've tried putting some kind of paper cover around the book but I'd like to know if there is any really effective way of doing it.

How can I transport a book in a backpack without getting the corners bent?

There are a few different ways of protecting books when carrying them in a backpack. One way is simply to carry them in a protective case, which could be an old VHS case, a lunchbox, a cereal box or a big plastic cover. Another method would be to place the book with the spine facing down and two items either side with nothing above it. Alternatively, you could wrap the book in some cloth.

The options are to use an old VHS tape box, a cardboard envelope used by online retailers, a cereal box, lunch box or large plastic cover, strips of elastic sewn into the bag, a laptop protection sleeve or a clear plastic book cover.

Use one of the cardboard envelopes which online retailers send books in.

Use cereal or granola bar boxes with the ends cut off.

Use a lunchbox or put the book in the bag spine down with solid objects either side.

Sew or glue lengths of fabric elastic into the bag to hold the book.

Use a newspaper cover or the clear plastic covers made specifically for books.


First, you should cover the cooking oil in either kitty litter (I've found this works best, but you may not always have it) or baking soda.

After waiting about 15 minutes, you can use paper towels to pick up and throw out the kitty litter/baking soda.

Next, you can use a piece of bread to wipe up any oil that is left.

A sponge also works here.

Lastly, mop the floor with dish soap and warm water.

You may need to repeat some of the steps more than once for the best result.

You could use coconut husk to absorb all cooking oil.

If not available, you could also use ordinary paper for the same.

Thus you could later use this wasted oil at least for igniting something.

Most probably, in the case if you have a wood burner .Try

to clean your tile with these, not leaving even a drop of oil behind.

Next, I would prefer dish washing liquid to do a final touch to your area.

Take some dish washing liquid and apply it onto the area affected, with a scrubber .Wait for some time.

This is used to absorb the oil left overs if any.

At last, with a wet cloth, wipe out the area.

And make the floor dry with a ceiling fan.

Cheaper and most used approach: Take all the excess oil from the floor to a vessel using a paper-napkin or spoon.

Spread flour (available in each kitchen) on the oily part.

Rub the flour on the oily parts

(it will even go through tiny lanes if any on the floor) till the floor gets dry.

Collect the flour using vacuum cleaner and use soap and sponge to clean the floor.

Cheers

Well i have been through the same situation

but I spilled like half litre of cooking oil and

my mom was about to come in home in half and hour

so what did I do...

First thing I did was to go to Google

then I read what suggestions were given here

but I had no item like napkin or bread in my house

so I poured baking soda all over the oil then waited around 10 mins i found some old clothes and mopped the oil

but still there was a little bit of oil on the floor

so I get my Washing powder poured it on left oil took a brush brushed that floor and mopped it

that's it last thing is to do

is to switch on the fan or exhaust fan in kitchen and voilà

it's done :)

I'm not 100% sure whether you're asking how to remove any staining from the oil, or whether to restore the floor to something you can walk across without slipping and sliding everywhere because its oily.

And when you say 'tiles', it's not clear whether you mean ceramic tiles, or terracotta or other material.

If the tiles are glazed ceramic, then you may have some residual staining in the grout between them -

that will be next to impossible to remove without scraping out existing grout and redoing it.

If the tiles are unglazed, or unsealed, then you won't get the stain out of those either.

If, though, the problem is slipperiness, then washing the floor with a strong cleaner such as Flash, then rinsing/mopping with hot water afterwards, twice, should stop that.

Wash with a sponge or sponge mop lightly dampened with dishwashing liquid (some brands are specially marked as "grease cutting" or "removes grease"; these are the best for this), then dry with either a dry sponge, towel, or paper towel.

It's the detergent action that will remove the oil from the tile.

First I use kitchen paper or useless piece of cloth (old towel, t-shirt) to absorb the oil as much as possible.

After that I clean the floor with sponge and dish washing liquid or liquid soap and warm water.

And finally use kitchen paper again to wipe dry.

After wiping most of the oil that you can trap with paper towels, use some kitchen wipes until all oil is off.

These have grease cutting agents that just don't push oil around but instead get them off.

Something like the Chlorox wipes - the Kirkland (Costco) kitchen wipe is the best in my opinion mainly because of its size and durability for such oily tasks.

I have used this method successfully for not so major oil spills.

Good luck!

Soak as much of it up with a large old towel that you will throw away.

Then liberally pour salt all over the spill.

Lots of it.

After about 15 minutes sweep up the salt.

Then wash the floor with vinegar and Dawn dish detergent.

Learned this when working at a fried fish resturant

Use Tissue Papers.

Place a tissue paper on the oil spilled on the floor.

Tissue papers will soak all the oil particles from the floor.

Do this several times on the portion where the oil is spilled.

After soaking the oil on tissue paper you can clean the floor with wet cloth.

You could try to put talc (aka talcum aka baby powder) on the stain and let it sink in before polishing it away.

This only works with recent stains.

http://www.greenbiz.com/blog/2011/03/04/cornstarch-proposed-solution-future-bp-style-oil-spills If you have an oily floor, open a bag of corn starch and apply liberally to the affected area.

(Cover the area in corn starch) .

Wait 10-15 minutes and then sweep up the corn starch.

Question: I accidentally spilled cooking oil all over my floor(tiles). I tried washing my floor with water and then wiping it with dry cloth but it gets even worse. How can I effectively clean up the cooking oil spill?

How to clean floor if there is cooking-oil spilled on it?

There are many different ways to clean up a cooking oil spill. Effective methods involve covering the area with kitty litter, flour or baking soda and then using paper towels to collect it up. You can also use bread or a sponge to soak up any remaining oil. To finish off, you will want to mop the floor with dish soap and warm water.

The options are to cover with cat litter, baking soda, coconut husks, paper, flour or salt, brush away or wipe away with paper towels and finish with a mop or sponge with warm water and dishwashing liquid with some vinegar possibly added, clean away using a strong cleaning fluid such as Flash rinsed away with warm water or paper towels and kitchen wipes or sprinkle corn starch and wipe away after waiting 10-15 minutes.

Cover with cat litter or baking soda, wait 15 minutes and then wipe away with paper towels. Finally, mop with warm water and detergent.

Use coconut husks or paper to absorb as much oil as possible and then wipe with a damp cloth.

Use paper napkins to remove excess oil, spread flour and rub in to oily parts then vacuum it away.

Wash the floor with a strong cleaner such as Flash and then rinse with warm water.

Wash with a sponge containing dishwashing liquid then dry with sponge, towel or paper.

Use kitchen paper or rags to absorb the oil and then clean with a sponge, liquid soap and warm water and dry with kitchen paper.

Wipe with paper towels and then use kitchen wipes to remove the remaining oil.

Soak up oil with an old towel, pour salt over the spill and leave for 15 minutes then sweep up the salt and wash the floor with vinegar and dish detergent.

Tissue papers are good to place on spilled oil and let them soak it.

If it's a recent stain try putting talc (aka talcum aka baby powder) on the stain and let it sink in before polishing it away.

Sprinkle corn starch on it and sweep up after 10-15 minutes.


Here some options that don't involve vandalizing your face.

Ponytail holders Stop Your Glasses from Slipping Off Your Face with Ponytail Holders 2.

Ear Hook Anti-slip Holder for Glasses 3.

Nerd Wax

The Original Glasses Wax

This sounds like a joke, but I found it works well for quite some time before needing to pull my glasses up by hand.

I learned to pull my glasses up with my ears!

Doing that taught me how to wiggle my ears and get children to laugh, so that might be an additional reason to learn.

Dunno how I started, but I was being frustrated and started not being frustrated.

Sort of an unconscious learning system.

There's no need for extra gadgets or body mods, you simply need to make the glasses a tighter fit.

Tighten the screws fixing the arms to the main part of the glasses.

Carefully bend the arms so that fit more tightly to your head and, in particular, so the hooks on the end fit tightly behind your ears.

I have always used https://wedgees.com/ Funny name but they really work.

They always sends me more than I order

so they are pretty inexpensive.

I have on my readers and sunglasses.

Here's a simple solution that might work.

Cut two small rectangular pieces from the sticky area of a Post-It note.

Fold each in half, sticky side out.

Stick one to each nose piece of your glasses.

Double sided Post-

It tape is also available, but most people aren't going to have it handy.

One frequent reason for glasses slipping is perspiration.

A simple fix, assuming that is the source of the problem, is a to apply a bit of antiperspirant to each side of the bridge of the nose.

Clear and unscented would be my choice.

Go to an optician and ask them to adjust the fit?

I've done it a couple times

so far, they have a machine in the back room usually.

It's legally mandated to be free in Canada, but I don't know what the rules in the US are.

My wife swears by these Silicone Anti-Slip Ear Grip Hook For Eyeglasses .

She says it's funny; they're something like 50 cents each, but she feels like they've changed her life.

She used to hate wearing her glasses.

(It looks like there's a similar product in Samuel's answer; I made this answer only because my wife was so happy about this exact link in particular.)

Rubber coat the applicable areas,

e.g. places touching the nose or ears.

Lots of color choices available, which makes this a fun option!

The best part is that on most surfaces, the finished material peels right off with an intentional (shall we say more than moderate?)

amount of force.

Glasses will often slip when I'm jogging.

Got this pair of ear/spectacles hook. .

Tried a few different types of rubber ear hook and this is the most comfortable so far.

Here's more information, http://betasimplicity.com/wedgeclassic.html

I'm not sure whether adjusting the glass temple will work for all people.

Once an optician told me that if the glass temple is adjusted properly, it will not slip.

And when he turned round, I see him having ear hooks on his glasses...

Buy lighter frames.

You have a nice Persol frame.

I have John Varvatos.

I love the look, but they are somewhat heavy and, much to my frustration, frequently slide down my nose, too.

I have a friend who just got a pair of glasses with featherweight Oakley frames.

I tried them on and those babies aren't going anywhere.

I will be getting a similar pair when it's time for my insurance to spring for a portion of the frame cost.

Question: I am currently using these glasses:   They slip a bit down my nose when I move suddenly or when I look at the ground. I have to re-adjust them and that's a bit inconvenient.  Is there anything I can do to prevent them from slipping down my nose?   P.S. I am aware of  this question  but my glasses have fixed nosepieces and that's why I'm asking this as a separate question.

How can I stop my glasses from slipping down my nose?

There are many different ways to stop your glasses falling down your nose, but you could consider using ear hooks, a ponytail holder or glasses wax. You might also try applying some anti-perspirant to the bridge of your nose or as your optician for a tigher fit. You could also lightly bend the arms so that they fit tightly behind your ears. Alternatively, you could learn to pull your glassses up with your ears!

The options are to use ponytail holders, ear hooks, nerd wax or original glasses wax, learn how to pull up glasses using your ears, adjuts your glasses to fit more tightly, use wedgees, get a lighter pair of glasses, apply post-it notes or antiperspirant to the glasses, ask an optician to adjust the fit or get some lighter glasses.

Use ponytail holders, ear hooks, nerd wax or original glasses wax.

Learn how to pull up glasses using your ears.

Adjust your glasses so they are a tighter fit.

Cut out bits of sticky post-it notes and attach to your glasses.

Apply some antiperspirant to each side of the bridge of the nose.

Use ear hooks - there are a number of products available.