I go through 3 different types of shoes as the seasons change: Hot (80F+): sandals Variable (30-80F):

indoor soccer shoes (eg adidas sambas) Cold (30F-): light hiking boots/trail running shoes For cold weather, you not only need to be comfortable while pedaling on your bike, but also confident off your bike.

Lightweight hiking boots, with windproofing, waterproofing, and breathable layers, not only keep your feet happy while pealing but also let you feel like a mountain goat when you put your foot down in the slush at a stop light, or dismount on top of ice, or have to portage down wet stairs.

Trail running shoes with these attributes are also a great choice if you want something even lighter and without the additional ankle support.

As others mention, wool/smartwool socks and switching to platform/toe clip/half-clips on your pedals are both good changes in addition to changing up your footwear.

My winter setup is smartwool socks, size 13 light hiking boots from North Face and Velo Orange half-clips.

In the winter I wear neoprene overshoes/galoshes.

(Some kind of socks on the outside of my shoes): These are not intended for walking.

They wear very much, and the nose slides up, even after a few steps.

The bottom is open, so you can use your SPD or other clickless pedals.

But while cycling they keep your foot dry and warm.

And they protect your shoes from dirt and mud.

In the autumn and winter, I always wear them for "sport cycling" (mtb, road).

I wished they were around when used to cycle to school (20 km through open terrain).

I haven't tried it myself, but according to the quite informative ICEBIKE website , sandals with layers of socks, including breathable waterproof ones, works quite well.

There are a number of cyclists, not always in the coldest of climates, but plenty chilly never the less, that swear by SPD Sandals, either from Shimano, or those pictured at right from Lake.

What's this, you say, are they Daft?

Not at all.

Sandals adopt quickly to the addition of another layer of socks, Gore-Tex Oversocks, or neoprene booties.

When out in the cold wet, you won't have wet shoes, as no water accumulates, it all runs off.

Personally, I just wear boots, and use toe clips or bare platforms depending on the size of the boots.

I have done the sandals and socks through the winter, living in Minnesota.

I usually would wear 3 layers of wool socks.

When it was wet, I'd put a plastic bag between the outermost sock and the next one in.

It worked very well and my feet were never cold.

There are companies that make specialized products for the socks with sandals in the wintertime though.

You sure do look kinda funny when you do that though.

I've got some "toe warmer" type things that slip over the front of my cycling shoes.

Has an opening in them to go around the clipping mechanism.

Works surprisingly well.

I go cycling in the snow with them, but have not gone out in days colder than upper 20's (F).

Living here in Southern California doesn't make me the best judge of "wet and cold" cycling gear, but I have had a few experiences in heavy downpours.

Being low on a budget, I find that it's often easy enough to slip a plastic bag over my socks and then lacing up my shoes, but there is a serious lack of style there, not to mention that your feet can't breath.

I have found a better alternative to keeping my feet dry regardless of what shoes I happen to wear, but it requires a little bit of work.

I happen to be lucky enough to own one of those wooden shoe inserts that help retain the shoes' shape.

Anyhow, through layering plastic bags and ironing them together, I was able to make a thicker "fabric" of sorts which was molded to the shape of the inside of my shoe.

I also made some that fit over the shoe, and it has done an incredibly good job at keeping my feet dry, on a low budget, with minimal weight increase.

Another solution which works quite well are neoprene socks which you can wear directly over your feet, or over a few layers of socks.

While they are a little pricey, it helps your feet breath and keeps the cold water out.

And while I have not tried it myself, I hear that shoe covers work just as nicely.

There are many winter foot wear options

so I thought I'd list a few.

I've been using Lake's winter biking shoe for many years.

The latest model (MXZ302) is absolutely superb.

They fixed the main problem the shoe had which was the escape of heat through the cleat.

Now with the latest MXZ302, two inner wool sock layers, and an external booty (of any brand)

I can ride in temps down to -15 (minus fifteen) celsius

(I think that's about 5 degrees farenheit) without frozen toes.

And I have chronic low blood pressure which causes my feet and fingers to go numb easily.

Now, if I could only fix the frozen finger issue...

In the winter I use Shimano MT60 MTB shoes - really comfy, gore-tex, warm and you can run cross-country in them with a bike on your shoulder.

They were fine down to -20 Centigrade last winter.

Question: I used Shimano cycling sandals during the summer months here in the Chicago, Illinois area.  I'm wondering if I can use these during the cold winter months also or if different shoes are required.  In favor of continuing to use the sandals, I could add SealSkinz and/or wool sock layers as the sandals are expandable.  Other than looking strange in the winter, are there problems with doing this?  What other winter cycling footwear should be considered?

Sandals in the winter? Other winter footwear options?

Suitable footwear for cycling in winter is quite varied. Ordinary boots with toe clips or bare platforms depending on the size of the boots are good. Lightweight hiking boots, winter biking shoes, Shimano shoes, trail running shoes are all possible solutions. If you wish to wear sandals, pair them with wool socks and clips on the pedals.  Another option is to cover the entire shoe with neoprene socks. However, there are companies that make specialized products for the socks with sandals in the wintertime.

A good solution would be to wear boots, ideally windproof, waterproof, and breathable. You could customize them with toe clips or bare platforms. You could wear a number of biking shoes, such as Lake's and the Shimano MT60 MTB, or running shoes if you prefer a lighter construction. Moreover, you could use alternative methods to keep your feet dry and warm, such as toe warmers and handmade constructions out of plastic bags and wooden soles. Finally, specialized options for sandals include wool, smartwool and neoprene socks, and using platform or clips for warmth and insulation purposes.

There are a number of biking shoes available, such as Lake's cycling shoes, or the Shimano MT60 MTB shoes.

You could use running shoes if you prefer a lighter construction.

Specialized options for sandals include wool, smartwool and neoprene socks, and using platform or clips for warmth and insulation purposes.

You could use alternative methods to keep your feet dry and warm, such as toe warmers and handmade constructions out of plastic bags and wooden soles.


I dunno about upcoming innovations, but I reject the idea that nothing much has changed in the last 25 years.

Bike lights have improved enormously.

I started cycling with the big EverReady-style lights that took two enormous D cells and gave only a few hours of rather weak light (that is, if the bulb didn't fail).

If you wanted to ride for moderate distances in the dark then you had to use a dynamo that dragged like a 30kph headwind while you were moving and went out as soon as you stopped.

Now my rear LED light lasts all winter on two AAAs, and my high-power front LED is good enough to ride all night on dark country lanes on four AAs.

Dynamos have improved too, with hub dynamos and standlights the norm.

GPS has made a big difference to navigation.

No more staring at maps in the dark to figure out where on earth you are and why that junction that you should have reached 5km ago has stubbornly failed to show up yet.

Online mapping makes planning bike rides much easier: a route-planning task that used to involve covering your floor with maps and marker pens can be done in a few minutes on your computer.

And you can check out the awkward junctions in Google StreetView so you won't get lost.

Mechanically, the advantage of the upright bike is its simplicity, ease of repair, and standard parts.

There can be tinkering around the edges: better materials, cheaper parts, slight improvements to ergonomics (like brake-mounted gear levers).

There's nothing much that needs doing to improve the machine.

What we can improve is the way we ride.

Folding bikes are getting better and there is still a long way to go in finding the best folding system.

Low maintenance is important for a lot of people, so better fully enclosed gears, chains and brakes are important to get normal people cycling, likewise with puncture-resistant tires.

It must be possible to come up with better locking/tracking systems.

There have been lots of advances in practical light systems over the last few years, this will continue.

However all the above must be cheap enough that they come as standard on a “cheap” bike brought from the local supermarket; otherwise they don’t have any effect in the “real world”.

I see the biggest need for innovations being aimed at people who see a bike as a transport solution, rather then an object to worship.

However most innovations are created by and for people that love bikes.

(My wife can own and drive a car, while knowing nothing about how a car works; she just has to book it into the garage once a year when they send her a reminder [or a "error" light comes on].

How can bike be made as easy to use and own?)

Electricity Electric gadgets on bikes (while available now) will become mainstream.

Examples Electrical bikes , not the ones your grandmother uses to go shopping, but electrical race- and mountainbikes.

Implemented using invisible and low weight devices like the Gruber Assist .

You could also think about electronic shifters like the Dura Ace di2 .

I think current trends in simpler bikes with cleaner lines might help popularize (thus bringing the price down) wide-range internal gear hubs like the Rohloff hub .

On my wish list would be more focus on comfort (consider the timelessness of the Brooks saddle combined with newer materials/design) and reliability (could we get puncture-resistant tires that don't have so much rolling resistance please?).

Too much focus is currently on weight and aerodynamics -- which makes sense given that pro racing typically drives innovation, but doesn't help the average cyclist much.

There is a drive shaft bike available.

Heck there is even a Wikipedia entry on it.

I have never tried riding one.

But the thing about bicycles is they are pretty darn good, as currently designed.

Brake innovations have come and gone (things like disc brakes on MTB's).

I am sure there are more.

Belt-drive is on the rise.

Supposedly much quieter than a chain, and no lube...

I've had the same niggling feeling myself, yes our bike lights are better than 20 years ago and the frame is a 'nicer' type of aluminium but that's not much.

A cross over vehicle that takes the best from the HPV world and the best from the cycling world would rock.

The role of the UCI in restricting aerodynamic innovation is probably to blame.

What I really fear is strong-hybrid bikes.

Not hybrid as in a normal bike, but an electric bike with pedals, but the pedals are only connected to a generator.

Pedal when you want, how much you like.

It doesn't matter so long as you have enough juice left.

That's going to change the feel of cycling much more than current electric bikes do.

bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/128/Tom Hawtin - tackline

Many improvements already exist: everything in the hubs (dynamos, brakes, gears) chainless transmisison puncture-free tires recumbent bikes Moreover, many equipments are available today that didn't exist 25 years ago, especially for carrying things and people.

Question: The (road) bike I bought 25 years ago is very similar to my current bike. (The derailleur on my new bike adjusts exactly the same way). The materials of my current bike are vastly different than the old one. Other than that it's all the same.  What are upcoming bicycle innovations, and if so what?  Considering the comments   Last week cruising through a bike shop, I saw a carbon fiber chain.   Have not seen any sort of radical shifting system lately.

Bicycle innovations in the pipeline?

Possible future innovations in biking could include better materials, cheaper parts and slight improvements to ergonomics (like brake-mounted gear levers). Moreover, as low maintenance is important for a lot of people, we could see better fully enclosed gears, chains and brakes in an attempt  to get normal people cycling, likewise with puncture-resistant tires. Furthermore, fFolding bikes are getting better although there is still a long way to go in finding the best folding system.  Hopefully, there will be better locking/tracking systems.  Bikes may be seen with more electric gadget and these will become mainstream. Finally, there is a  drive shaft  bike available.

There can be improvements on existing bike technology, with particular focus on quality materials, less cost and functional design. This works towards introducing a wider audience to cycling. Moreover, we are expecting innovations in the field of folding bikes. Another area for improvement is locking and tracking technologies. In this context, the use of electric gadgets will become commonplace for future cyclists. Finally, shaft-driven and belt-driven bicycles are emerging.

We are expecting innovations in the field of folding bikes.

An area for improvement is locking and tracking technologies. In this context, the use of electric gadgets will become commonplace for future cyclists.

Shaft-driven and belt-driven bicycles are emerging.


There is an interesting Q&A on independent.co.uk (though it dates from 1995) talking about bananas and tennis...

Q. Witnessing players at Wimbledon

chomping their way through pounds of

bananas between games prompts the question: who began this sporting food fad and are there sound nutritional reasons for the players' preference for bananas to other fruit or food.

In what other sports (leaving aside lunch and tea breaks in cricket) do the participants eat during the course of play? A.

The sporting fad for bananas was started by sports nutritionists such as myself.

The banana is rich in carbohydrate - an important source of energy for athletes and has significantly higher levels than any other fruit.

Also, unlike most other forms of high-carbohydrate foods, it contains very little fat but is also high in fibre.

The combination of fibre with the banana's three natural sugars - fructose, sucrose and glucose - means it provides a sustained boost to flagging energy levels, thus so many players at Wimbledon were seen eating bananas.

Bananas are also an excellent recovery food for replacing potassium lost in sweating , something most players must have been suffering from at this year's tournament.

Jane Griffin, Consultant Nutritionist to the British Olympic Association, London SW17 Sounds like it would be good for long bike rides as well.

Real food like bananas are better than processed food any day.

Don't ditch old school foods.

Remember when they said that margarine was better for you than butter?

30 years later, they find out trans-fats are bad.

The banana stands the test of time.

Gel packs and bars won't.

Keep at it brother!

They are easier to carry than coconuts (although two of you could carry one on a line)

I'm not a nutrition expert, but I swear by bananas!

I have always had issues with cramps and bonking on long rides (over 50 miles).

I don't train a ton because I have young children, but I like doing the Palm Springs Century each year.

The way to prepare for this for me is to ride my usual 20 mile loop around town first twice, then 3 times, and yesterday I did 4 laps for a total of 80 miles.

I had 4 bananas, one each hour, along with 2 large water bottles and felt great!

I have tried the GU Packs, sports drinks, sugary chomp bites, and none of them seemed to work.

From now on, it's just electrolyte water from Trader Joe's and good old fashioned bananas!

In addition to the points made in other answers, I think bananas are good because you can stuff one down in no time at all.

Like, less than ten seconds.

I think that's handy when you're on the bike.

I took a banana on a race a couple months ago.

It went from nicely firm and yellow to bruised, squishy and messy in a couple hours.

I binned it in the end.

Plus the ratio of packaging to content is pretty high, unless you eat the skin or carry it peeled.

Possible replacements - dried banana chips may work.

I tend to buy three things from supermarket bulk bins, a chocolate or carob bite, a yoghourt based bite, and something mostly nut or grain based.

Don't forget your water though!

No one addressed the question of how long does it take for the banana to break down and work.

It can not be immediate.

I think two hours might be too long, but if the banana needs say 1.5 hours, you will need to eat something about one into your ride max before eating the banana for it to work 2.5 hours down the road.

To suggest gel and cliff bars don't work is also not right.

But you need the most important thing: water or Gatorade/water mix with the gels cliffs or the banana.

You need 80 grams of carbs per hour on a long ride, one banana wont cut it.

I like bananas but the fact that half the volume you throw away (the peel) makes this only a partial solution in my opinion.

Question: I am very much an old school cyclist and I always carry a banana with me when I go on rides longer than an hour.  In the past I have found them ideal - they easily fit in my jersey pockets, the wrapping is biodegradable (if I accidentally drop it when riding), high source of potassium to stop muscle cramp.    Should I change my ways and ditch the bended yellow pill for a more modern fare?

Are bananas still a good food to carry when cycling?

The combination of  fibre with the banana's three natural  sugars - fructose, sucrose and glucose  - means it provides a sustained boost to flagging energy levels,  thus so  many players at Wimbledon were seen  eating bananas.  Some people prefer bananas as they believe real food like bananas is better than processed food any day. Other, however, feel there is a lot of waste with a banan and thus think they are only a partial solution.

Most people agree that the fibre and natural sugars found in bananas make them a good option, as they replenish waning energy and potassium levels. This is verified by personal experiences. The argument for natural food also adds to the point. However, you might want to consider that bananas are easily damaged, while half their volume consists of their peel.

You might want to consider that bananas are easily damaged, while half their volume consists of their peel.


Bedding in brakes removes any glaze from your new pads, and any contamination from your disc rotors.

It also transfers material from the pads onto the rotors, which helps them work together.

It's essential to get the optimum performance from your brakes when you change pads.

Follow these steps:

Clean your rotors - you don't want them to transfer any grease andgrime to your new pads.

You can buy dedicated brake cleaner.

Fit the new pads and find a place where you can build up a bit of speed.

A hill is helpful for this.

Build up some speed and then brake to a gradual halt.

Repeat a few times.

That's probably all you need to do.

However some people, myself included, like to pour water over the hot brakes.

I'm not sure this actually improves anything but

even if it doesn't it sizzles and steams, which is pretty cool

The reason you need to bed in your pads is so that they contact the disc rotor evenly.

Even if you think you've set them up perfectly, the rotor and the pad are very hard and when you apply the brakes initially there is not going to be completely even contact between pad and rotor.

By bedding them in, you're effectively wearing away the top layer of the disc rotor so you get completely even contact.

To do this you simply need to brake hard, generating heat and wear.

I find sprinting down the road and put the front brakes on hard, whilst keeping my weight well back to prevent an embarrassing endo, works well.

For the rear I again sprint off but then apply it steadily and firmly, also with weight well back and just enough pressure to brake hard without skidding.

It helps if you're on a really grippy surface like tarmac.

Bedding in is a term applied to most metallic braking devices.

Pads and rotors/discs wear at different rates and can end up slightly grooved depending on the natural variations in the pad/disc materials. when replacing one or the other or both items you need to bed them in to ensure that both surfaces conform to each other.

The best way to bed brakes in is NOT by slamming them on, but rather by applying firm, even pressure to the brakes which will help ensure they bed in correctly.

Too light pressure

and you could "glaze" the pad

- i.e. turn it too hard and polished to effectively brake, too hard and you could damage the rotor or pad by scoring its surface or worse.

The reason for bedding them in is to get the proper performance and lifetime out of them that they were designed for.

The process should be specified by the manufacturer.

It will vary based on the pad's materials/design.

The how has been described already: repeated brakes to near stop from some speed to put heat into pads.

Try to avoid holding the brake after you've come to a full stop to avoid uneven transfer of pad material.

I think the why hasn't been fully covered yet, aside from the fact bedding in transfers some pad material to the rotors/discs.

But the reason this is important is that most of the stopping power comes from adhesion rather than friction.

Brand new pads have only friction between hard pad and steel rotor.

Friction alone - as you'll know if you've ridden on new pads - doesn't slow you very effectively.

Adhesive friction between the pads and rotor, particularly with sintered pads, is much more powerful.

Imagine the pad sticking like glue to the pad material on the rotor.

As the rotor passes through the pads it smears material from the pads, rather than grinding the rotor down.

Adhesive friction is also used in tyre technology, particularly for performance tyres.

I have a picture from a recent track day where I was able to stick a screwdriver to the side of the tyre on my motorbike.

The tyres were literally sticky to the touch when they hit their operating temperature.

The same thing happens to your brake pads when they hit operating temperature.

So when bedding in you're just getting them hot enough to smear a coating on the rotor, ready for you to take advantage of adhesive friction the next time you get them to operating temperature.

Yes, you will need to do a series of brake applications to ensure a nice even coat of pad material is layered on the brake rotor or disk.

What your essentially doing here is cooking your pad so that the rotor will have pad material transferred to it.

Also, your also making sure the pad is mature enough to be used for those big hills.

If you want to know what a rotor looks like when you do this wrong, then check this car website out: http://www.cquence.net/blog/brake_pads_and_install_guidelines/

Question: Why should I bed in my disc brake pads and what's the best way to do it?

Why/How should I bed in disc brake pads?

The process Ffor breaking in brake pads should be specified by the manufacturer. It will vary based on the pad's materials/design. The best way to bed brakes in is NOT by slamming them on, but rather by applying firm, even pressure to the brakes which will help ensure they bed in correctly. Another recommendation is to repeated apply the brakes to near stop from some speed to put heat into pads. A series of brake applications is required to ensure a nice even coat of pad material is layered on the brake rotor or disk.

You should start with cleaning your rotors with brake cleaner to avoid contaminating your new pads. After fitting the pads, try accelerating and breaking repeatedly, to generate heat and coat the brake rotor or disk evenly. Most agree that the break should be firm and steady, as opposed to hard. Keeping your weight back might help. Regardless, it would be a good idea to advise the manufacturer's instructions, as the process may be different in some designs.

It would be a good idea to advise the manufacturer's instructions, as the process may be different in some designs.


I should imagine you should be looking for some reflective gloves.

Or even some glo glovesCheck these out as an example ...

Also using a good reflective jacket that has good reflective strips down the arms is useful.

Putting reflective bands on your sleeves can help make your movements visible.

They don't need to be attached permanently: a second pair of trouser clips works very well when strapped around your cuffs, or possibly the cuffs of your gloves if you're wearing big winter gloves.

Something like Ron Hill snap bands (there are lots of equivalent products with different names)

are very visible, take up next to no space when you're off the bike, don't encumber your wrists or get uncomfortable, and take only a few seconds to put on when you set off.

You might even find your local road safety organization gives away bands like these at events, so they don't have to cost anything.

Wearing reflective (or at least brightly coloured) gloves is also pretty good.

Other than that it's all about being extremely cautious.

Similar to the LED gloves, you can always make a signaling jacket .

I bet I know a few of our friends that would be totally down helping with that ;)

I did a project to add electronic Arduino turn signals, brake lights, speedometer, and odometer to my bike.

You can check out my project here: http://jdeboi.com/pimpmybike/

I have a pair of these from Sierra Trading Post: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/north-american-trading-soft-deerskin-gloves-reflective-strip-for-men-and-women~p~4617m/

The reflective strip is wide and works as advertised.

If you're biking in cold weather (I'm a Sconnie, so "cold" to me is "25F or below"), I recommend glove liners and/or wristbands; these gloves are a bit drafty.

This problem is easily solved.

Just buy some pants cuff protectors ( the kind that keep you pant leg from getting into the chain ), get the ones that have reflective material sewn on them and you can just use these around your arm at night.

Any light from a cars headlights in either diredction should light up the reflecting material.

Probably cost less than $5 if you want a pair.

Most of them are either velcro or elastic for a custom fit.

They can be used in all seasons, with a jacket or bare arms.

I wear cheap white cotton gardening gloves on my hands, while biking - they started white and are now a light grey from oil and exhaust fumes.

Only cost $2 at the local hardware store.

The other thing is to look for full arm length high-vis jackets or overvests with reflective piping on the arm.

Orange is considered better than grellow for night-time visibility.

And ride like they haven't seen you, because they probably haven't.

There are also some (I think experimental) lights with turn signals for bikes.

For example, I once saw an ad for these Lights: http://www.bicygnals.com/indicators.php A wide front and rear light, both are wirelessly connected together, with yellow lights at the side.

One minus point

I see for the front light

is that it might take up all space on your cockpit, but it seems a pretty reasonable but a little high effort way to go.

Visijax make a high-visibility cycling jacket that also includes battery-powered indicators.

It may be the way to go, at least in winter, if you don't mind looking like a bit of a prat. http://visijax.com/

Question: My bike and I are fairly visible at night--white light in front, red light in the back, bright yellow fenders, reflective tabs and a light on my helmet.  I use hand signals to alert motorists when I'm turning... but I don't think they can see my hands in the dark.  Is there anything different I should do when I'm signalling a turn in an unlit place?

How can I be visible in the dark when I'm signalling a turn?

Making sure you are visible when making a turn at night is important. A number of options exist to achieve the goal. One would be a good pair of reflective gloves, or failing that brightly colored gloves.  Also using a good reflective jacket that has good reflective strips down the arms is useful. To make your movements visible, you can put reflective bands on your sleeves, to do this you can buy some pants cuff protectors and wear these around your arm at night.

The best solution is attaching some reflective material, preferably orange, on your gloves, cuffs or sleeves. This could be sewn on permanently or strapped. Alternatively, there is ready-made reflecting clothing you could use. You might also want to look into turn signals for bicycles. In any case, you should be very careful when your are driving at night.

You might want to look into turn signals for bicycles.


No, usually expensive helmets are lighter and more comfortable because have more ventilation.

So, if you plan to ride for long hours it's better to buy the more expensive helmet that you can afford, otherwise - for short rides - a cheap helmet will do the job.

The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute did a impact test of two sets of helmets.

One of them cheap (US$20.00)

the other expensive (US$200.00).

The results are clear: there's no difference.

Buy from a reputable brand.

Just check:

If it has the U.S. CONSUMER PRODUCT SAFETY COMMISSION (CPSC) label If it is confortable in your head (you'll use it more) BTW, they give nice and reasonable tips :

"Beware of gimmicks.

You want a smoothly rounded outer shell, with no sharp ribs or snag points.

Excessive vents mean less foam contacting your head, which could concentrate force on one point.

"Aero" helmets are not noticeably faster, and in a crash the "tail" could snag or knock the helmet aside.

Skinny straps are less comfortable.

Dark helmets are hard for motorists to see.

Rigid visors can snag or shatter in a fall.

Helmet standards do not address these problems--it's up to you!"

Their site is really informative.

It's worth to spend half an hour browsing it.

There is actually some misinformation here.

It is true that both cheap and expensive helmets must conform with CE-certifications and EU-regulations etc.

but the Swedish insurance company Folksam did a more comprehensive test of bicycle helmets.

While the best helmet was a relatively cheap one (if you don't consider the airbag helmet), there was a large difference between the amount of protection they each offered.

Here is a link to the test, but unfortunately it is in Swedish.

Google translate was not to keen to parse the link either.

Trust.

Of course the manufacturers trade on that, but would you trust a helmet that cost a meagre amount?

The more expensive helmets are generally sculpted and designed to have more ventilation, be lighter, be more adjustable, be more comfortable, but ultimately, do you trust them to do the job.

I wear a helmet because when I race I have to and when I commute I'm under personal pressure to wear one.

(To be fair I did recently have a crash and my forehead would have looked worse

had I not been wearing one

- it at least protected me from a longer cut.)

Personally I spent more money because I wanted light and comfortable, but I also figure that something that costs the same as a big lunch cannot have been designed, tested and built properly.

From the same manufacturer (or similar reputable) the safety is the same.

This years model costs more, mostly to make up for selling

last years model at half

price!The top end ranges do have better ventilation, more comfortable or more adjustable padding and straps and have a logo on the box that says they were endorsed by this years Tour de France winner (unless they have just been caught taking drugs)

Personally I buy last year's model from a reputable maker when the LBS has them on sale.

Since helmets need to be replaced every few years (the plastic degrades)

I don't worry about how long a better quality helmet will last.

For me the padding and straps become horribly degraded from sweat long before the impact foam chemically degrades.

I also buy two helmets for summer use and alternate them so they at least have a chance to dry out.

Older ones get relegated to winter use with the padding removed when I wear a hat.

As long as it meets EU/US minimums, price does not make much of a difference safety-wise; a cheap helmet will do a fine job of protecting you: https://helmets.org/testbycost.htm

More money gives better ventilation, aerodynamics and comfort but you should question whether a shaped bit of plastic foam can justify a £200 price-tag or if you're just paying for the brand.

Question: Is there any real difference between the cheap and expensive cycling helmets? Is it really worth buying a helmet at say 3 or 4 times the price of a cheap helmet? Will that helmet really give you 3 or 4 times more protection?

What's the real difference between cheap and expensive helmets?

The  results  are clear: there's no difference. As long as it meets EU/US minimums, price does not make much of a difference safety-wise; a cheap helmet will do a fine job of protecting you:  https://helmets.org/testbycost.htm. More expensive helmets may be more comfortable and lighter with more ventilation. However, cheaper, reputable helmets are fine.

It is highly subjective. Some people argue that expensive helmets provide better protection, while their design is lighter and more comfortable because they are better ventilated. Others believe that if a regular helmet conforms to EU/US standards and is produced by a reputable manufacturer, it is not very different from an expensive brand. You might want to consider your needs. Long rides that require comfort may justify the added price, otherwise a regular helmet could suffice.

If a regular helmet conforms to EU/US standards and is produced by a reputable manufacturer, it is not very different from an expensive brand.


Bananas and as I need at least 15 characters, don't forget to eat bananas during your ride as well.

Chris's answer is good if you are planning for some serious training/ride.

IMHO, if you ride just a few Kms there's not even need for a particular diet, as long as it's mixed and well balanced.

I stick to such a regular diet for rides of 50 Km or less, otherwise some tuning (as described by Chris) is needed.

That depends on the type of ride, but generally something not too heavy with plenty of complex carbs is good before a long ride.

You want something that is going to release plenty of energy over the course of the ride.

Porridge, maybe with yogurt and stewed fruit, works really well for me.

After a ride, there's a 15 minute recovery window where you want to replace those carbs and also get some protein, so your body can replenish its energy reserves and rebuild muscle mass.

There are specialist recovery drinks that do this, but to be honest a milkshake made with semi or skimmed milk and not too much sugar is ideal.

I just consider the nature of the ride I plan to do.

And think of the time I'll be on the bike and the intensity of the ride.

A short commute, errand or casual ride.

Probably nothing more is needed other than normal balanced meals with a snack (energy bar, banana, fig bar, or whatever you prefer) in your pocket.

A long commute/errand or moderate fitness ride.

Preferably a meal 1 - 2 hours before the ride (60% Carbs, 20% Protein, 20% Fat); then a high carb snack 30 minutes before the workout (granola bar, banana, etc); after the ride a light meal/snack with a 4:1 carb/protein ratio within 2 hours.

High intensity fitness training/fitness rides such as interval training.

A meal and snack, as above, 1 - 2 hours and 30 minutes before; an energy/electrolyte drink during the workout; and a recovery meal/snack as above.

Very long rides where you'll be on the bike for several hours, such as centuries.

Same as the previous.

However during the ride, it pays to eat and hydrate throughout.

I find that I'm eating the equivalent of a high carb energy bar about every hour.

This is a rough answer as there are entire books on the subject of exercise nutrition.

A couple that I've found useful are by Chris Carmichael .

One is Food for Fitness and another is

The Time Crunched Cyclist .

The only thing to 'make sure' to eat is carbohydrates, protein, fat, salt, and water, in any form.

Here are some of my favorite snacks to eat while cycling-

as opposed to before/after; some make the list because they are ubiquitous at convenience stores (in order of quantity that I have consumed) misc 'bar' peanut butter sandwich (banana and honey optional) sandwich bananas equal parts soda:water (optimum osmotic pressure for sugar uptake as recommended by Greg Lemond, first line of defense when a bonk is coming on) peanuts pop-tarts Before/after long rides: pancakes with peanut butter oatmeal with fruits and nuts big bowl of cereal eggs

"a rare steak is a good breakfast for what lies ahead" "A Sunday in Hell" Roger de Vlaeminck eating a pre-race meal at 15:09 (make sure to cut small pieces and chew well!)

protein shake burrito shwarma

I love the honey stinger waffles.

It is like a 3-inch waffle with honey in the middle.

It is all natural, very tasty and fits very nicely into the seat bag or back pocket.

Only drawbacks are that they can be challenging at the moment to get into.

There is supposed to be new packaging this year (2011).

There also is no protein but on the ride itself that should not be a problem.

Question: What should a bicyclist make sure to eat before and after riding a bike?

What should one eat while cycling?

Most cyclists do not require a special diet. It is important to have enough carbohydrates and to have a banana or energy bar with you during the ride, and water , of course. After a long ride, it is important to replensh protein and carbohydrate.

Opinions on this subject vary. Some people recommend specific food types, such as fruit or sweets, while others propose consuming the calories corresponding roughly to a high carb energy bar. It is important to follow a mixed and balanced diet, including carbohydrates, protein, fat, salt and water. You might also want to consider the type of ride. Short commutes require regular balanced meals. For long distances, it is recommended that you plan your meal carefully some hours before starting, hydrate frequently and have a snack after the ride. You should replenish your energy with carbs, protein and recovery drinks, but not eat too heavy.

Some people recommend specific food types, such as fruit or sweets.

It is important to follow a mixed and balanced diet, including carbohydrates, protein, fat, salt and water, especially for short distances.

It would be a good idea to consume the calories corresponding roughly to a high carb energy bar.

You might want to consider the type of ride. Short commutes require regular balanced meals. For long distances, it is recommended that you plan your meal carefully some hours before starting, hydrate frequently and have a snack after the ride. You should replenish your energy with carbs, protein and recovery drinks, but not eat too heavy.


Look on the sidewalls of your tires, and you should see a recommended pressure range.

If your tires are outside that range, you need more air.

The lower end of the pressure range is good for soft ground like dirt or gravel or snow, where you need more traction; the higher end is best for roads, and will help you avoid pinch flats .

The short answer is: it depends on the tires.

If the air pressure is lower, there is more contact between the ground and the tire.

This has the advantage of more grip (especially in rainy and/or icy conditions this can be nice), but the disadvantage of more resistance, making the cycling harder.

If the air pressure is higher, the advantage is making it easier, but the disadvantage is less grip.

In addition, if the pressure is low, the wheel can damage the tire, if the pressure is high, the ground can damage the tire.

In general the thin tires (such as on racing bikes) do require higher pressure then wide tires (such as on mountain bikes).

If you see the bottom of the wheel as cutting in to the side of the tire, then the pressure is definitely too low.

Other looking at the sidewall, here are some clues that I use: If the rim hits the edge of a pothole or uneven sidewalk when you go over it.

Learn the relationship between the feel at the thumb and the amount of pressure in the tire For a given tire, too low can depend on what you want out of the tire and the conditions that you expect to ride in.

If you find it difficult to hold your line in a turn because your tires are not firm enough (in extreme cases the tire will roll off), you should increase the pressure.

Simple answer is, they always need more air.

Tires leak, slowly, but they all leak.

If you are riding every day, you probably want to top them up every 2-3 days.

If you ride once a week, you need to top them up every ride.

There are 2 ways to determine this.

One is to use an air pressure gauge.

The other is to squeeze the tire with your fingers.

Like Neilfein says above, first check the inflation specs on your tires.

Roughly.... Mountain bike tires =

35 - 65 psi Commuter bike tires = 75 - 100 psi Road bike tires =

100 - 120 psi Ok, so here's something you can do.

Using a pressure gauge, pump up your tires to the max pressure.

Then, using your fingers, see how that feels.

Now, let the air out, and pump up to the min pressure, and see how that feels.

Also, do the same with a middle pressure.

Now you have a range.

Once you are familiar with how that pressure range feels, you can either head off for your ride or add air.

And of course, you can always use a gauge to check the pressure before each and every ride.

For casual short rides I just squeeze the tires.

And it works.

Beyond that, I get out the pump and top them off.

Question: How much air is too little and you should add more for the safety and ease of your bike ride?

How do you know when you need to add more air in the tires?

The short answer is that it depends on the tires.  One option is to use an air pressure gauge, another is to feel the tires. Tires always need more air.  If you are riding every day, you probably want to top them up every 2-3 days.  If you ride once a week, you need to top them up every ride. Moreover, on the sidewalls of your tires, there is usually a recommended pressure range.

Depending on the tires, you could advise the manufacturer's recommended pressure range and adjust accordingly. Moreover, if the bottom of the wheel is biting into the tire, if the rim is affected on uneven road, or if you are facing difficulties in holding your line when turning, you should increase the tire pressure. It is recommended that you use a pressure gauge to reach the desired tire pressure and then squeeze the tire with your fingers to understand the feel of certain pressure levels. However, some people advise that you should add air constantly, and specifically every 2-3 days if you use your bicycle frequently.

You should increase the pressure in case the bottom of the wheel is biting into the tire.

If the rim is affected when you are driving on uneven road, the tire pressure is not high enough.

A solution would be to use a pressure gauge to reach the desired tire pressure and then squeeze the tire with your fingers to understand the feel of certain pressure levels.

If you are facing difficulties in holding your line when turning because of your tires, you should increase tire pressure.

It is recommended that you add air constantly, and specifically every 2-3 days if you use your bicycle frequently.


Riding in snow depends on a bunch of factors, so you won't really ever be able to know unless you just go for it and try it out.

What bike/wheels you have Should be obvious.

Mountain vs Road, 26" vs 29", wide vs skinny tires, etc

Your skill level in snow

The better and more comfortable you are in the snow

is important.

I'd say its the most important factor apart from the bike.

While some have trouble steering in just an inches, others can handle nearly a foot or more.

Tracks in the snow

You mentioned fresh snow, but I'm going to include this as part of a general answer.

The difference between fresh snow and tracked snow is huge.

Tracked snow is vastly more difficult to bike in.

With just a few inches of solid snow and some criss-crossing tire tracks, it can be nearly impossible to ride at any significant speed.

Consistency of snow

Lastly, fresh powdery snow is a lot easier to go through than wet solid stuff.

But powdery can be far worse if a hard icy surface lurks below the snow.

Bottom line: Just go out and ride through snow and see what you can handle, then ride through something a little tougher.

Best part is, the soft snow makes falling easier!

My experience from last winter was that I could keep moving through falling sticky snow up to about 6" =

but it took a great deal of effort,

even more so if your tyres end up cracking through frozen puddles under the snow.

There were sections where I had to pedal hard just to keep moving even down some normally fast downhill sections.

It's great fun -

but maybe don't stray too far from home on your first outing.

Depends on how heavy it is and what you want to do.

For a light snow, below the hubs should be fine.

For heavier snows and slush, well, you have to worry more about losing control of the front wheel.

Fatter tires or a mountain bike are easier to ride in slush and snow.

If you want to test the limits go as fast as is safe 2.use

a big gear keep a light touch on the handlebars only brake when going in a straight line and only use the rear brake A fixed gear is easier to control in these situations because of the direct control that you have over the rotation of the rear wheel.

I agree with the other answers, but think one subtle detail is important.

It depends on the type of snow.

Eskimos have 50 words for snow?

Well there really are different types.

Light and fluffy is easy.

Deep and heavy gets to be problematic.

There comes a point, where each forward motion is wasted as the wheel spins, while sinking down through the snow up ahead, till it hits the bottom where it can get traction.

That is very hard riding if it is possible at all.

I am not sure how to discuss the very different types of snow to really answer this question completely.

If you are talking about riding your bike on normal streets, then this might be helpfull.

I recently got lots of experience riding on various kinds of snow.

Here in Germany, the bicycle paths are cleared and sometimes salt is put on them so that you have various mixtures of mud and snow.

I find it easiest to ride on a road where no salt is put on and where the feet of the people made the snow essentially a flat hard surface.

Riding on that type of snow is possible even with temperatures below 10

Fahrenheit.

If you have snow about 5 inches deep and not yet a hard surface but lots of footsteps and bike traces, then it is difficult to ride.

You bump constantly into tiny snow hills, and you will drive in snake lines or fall off.

If you have salt on the road and it is no colder than 20 Fahrenheit, then it is ok to ride in this snow-water mud.

It get much more difficult to ride if you go below 20 Fahrenheit, then the mud freezes, even if you follow the path of other bikes.

On packed snow (IE from cars), my hybrid performs better than my mountain bike.

The narrower tires cut through and contact solid pavement underneath.

The bigger mountain bike tires can't cut through and end up floating on the surface.

The effect is like hydroplaning.

Very hard to steer, although I don't know the physics behind that.

Question: I was going to go for an off road ride in the snow this weekend but I chickened out. Partly because it was cold but mainly because I have no experience riding in snow and wasn't sure whether I would get more than 10 metres from my house.  So this got me thinking, if you're riding off road on a path that is virtually untouched, how deep does it have to get to become unrideable?

How deep does snow have to be before it becomes unrideable?

Different types of snow are easier or more difficult to ride a bike in. Fresh snow is easier, tracked snow more difficult. Fresh, powdery snow is easier than wet, solid snow. Moreover, hard ice beneath the snow makes riding difficult. Finaly, the type of bike or tires makes a difference: Fatter, mountain bike tires make riding through snow easier.

The answer may depend on your bicycle type, as fatter tires are better for snow. More to the point, it is important to consider the state and volume of the snow. Specifically, fresh snow is not as challenging, even though bikers should beware of icy surfaces, while deep and heavy snow can be problematic. You should also distinguish between fresh and tracked snow, which is more demanding. Finally, temperature is an important factor. Driving below 20 Fahrenheit can be dangerous, even if there is salt on the road.

You should distinguish between fresh and tracked snow. The latter is more demanding, even if the snow is not deep.

It is important to consider the state and volume of the snow. Specifically, fresh snow is not as challenging, even though bikers should beware of icy surfaces, while deep and heavy snow can be problematic, especially when trying to maintain control of the wheel.

Temperature is an important factor, as driving below 20 Fahrenheit can be dangerous, even if there is salt on the road.


Protective plates?

You mean Fenders/Mudguards ?

I can think of 3 things that could help, other than simply bringing a change: Bigger fenders (wider, and/or go down the tire more).

Basically, some fenders are better than others.

A front fender that's wider than the tire with a stay (rod) going back for support that hugs the tire fairly closely and extends down to the height of the bottom bracket is ideal.

A mudflap hanging from the bottom of the front fender.

This is a flap made of something flexible (rubber, leather, etc) that hangs from the bottom of the fender.

It effectively extends the fender down even further without it being a problem if it hits something.

Some fenders/mudguards come with this.

Or you can add one.

Protective pants over your regular pants.

I have a pair of yellow rain pants that I put on over my regular pants when cycling in the rain.

Nothing will be 100%.

It's always possible to get splashed by something else from the side.

You can avoid getting your pants dirty and save rotational weight at the same time by not wearing any pants at all.

You could get big socks and try tucking your pants into them.

I personally like these as they're waterproof too: http://www.sealskinz.com/socks

And for your shoes, you can get overshoes to protect them: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cycling_shoe#Overshoes

I use Helly Hansen Voss pants.

They are great

and I can take them off/put them on with my shoes on. http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=voss+pants EDIT:

Yes, I do sweat but not too bad as my commute is only 30 min.

If it's warm and raining I usually wear shorts and put pants in my bag.

Like the other answers, I would recommend putting on special trousers for cycling.

For colder/wet weather, I use long cycling or hiking trousers (like these ); those have the additional advantage of protecting from cold an rain.

You can either put them on instead of your regular pants, then change at work (more comfortable, less wear on regular trousers, but awkward to change in public), or just put them over your regular trousers (easier to change, and warmer).

For warm weather, I just use common Lycra-type cycling shorts.

Yes, they are not very stylish, but they are very comfortable for riding, and changing into regular trousers is quite fast.

An additional option, particularly for short distances where changing trousers is too much hassle, are bike gaiters .

They are easier to pack and quicker to put on/take off than cycling trousers, but protect shoes and lower legs from dirt (and rain).

They are also a good alternative to rain-proof trousers, if you wear a poncho.

Much easier to wear cycling-specific clothing and just carry a change of clothes/shoes with you in a waterproof bag/pannier or leave some at work.

Anything more than fenders and flaps is going to be a hassle to deal with.

I haven't cycled for years, but I walk about 9,5 kilometers to work every workday (and the same distance back), so I know the problem well.

From my experience the single most efficient measure is to wear shoes and pants of light colors - light gray, clay, etc, so that typical dirt is not that visible on them.

This fixes the problem once and for all

- I wash my sand color jeans once in maybe three weeks

and I just never wash light color shoes -

their outsoles get abrased to holes faster

(that is in about three months).

I recommend Neos Overshoes, which both my wife and I wear.

You wear your regular shoes inside of these, and these "overshoes" add a little warmth, protection and traction, covering some of your pant leg as well as your shoes.

They aren't the most attractive things out of the street, but you may arrive perfectly dry and clean at your destination.

I have the Voyager NEOS , but they have a less expensive Villager model as well.

The nice thing about NEOS is their versatility.

They are useful any time you need to go out in wet/dirty conditions, and are not just for cycling.

The don't "clip in", but if that's important to you, you might consider a reversible pedal that is flat on one side and has a clip on the other.

I use such pedals on one of my bikes that I use for both and long trips.

Gaiters such as skiers wear would be another option.

Question: If it is wet, not necessarily pouring rain, it is easy to get the bottom of the pants and the shoes dirty. My tires have  protective plates fenders, yet it is not enough. If there a way to avoid that?

How to keep the pants from getting dirty

There are a number of ways to protect pants and shoes when cycling. Protective fenders or mudflaps can be installed on the bike. The rider can wear protective pants and shoes over the regular pants and shoes or wear cycling clothing and change at the destination. Finally, gaiters are an option, particularly for short distances where changing is a hassle.

A solution would be to use wider or better quality fenders, which would ideally cover the entire tire, or add a flexible mudflap at the front fender. It is also possible to use cycling-specific clothing, for instance protective pants, cycling shorts and gaiters. Moreover, you might want to put your trousers into bigger socks to protect them, or use overshoes that provide warmth, protection and traction, aside from keeping some of your trousers clean.

A solution would be to use wider or better quality fenders, which would ideally cover the entire tire.

You could consider using a flexible mudflap at the front, in addition to the fender.

It is possible to use cycling-specific clothing, for instance protective pants, like Helly Hansen Voss pants or cycling shorts.

You might want to put your trousers into bigger socks to protect them.

Gaiters can be used to protect your trousers, especially in short distances.

Overshoes may provide warmth, protection and traction, aside from keeping some of your trousers clean.


A thread on this subject on Bikeforums ran to pages and pages...

Some expressing utter horror that a bicyclist would feel the need to be armed, others ridiculing the whole idea, others with decent suggestions.

I'm a cop, I know that numbers of cyclists ride in conditions that are less than optimal.

We have had armed robberies and muggings of cyclists here in St. Louis, usually the bad guy is after the high-end bike.

As well, mountain bikers have been attacked by cougars in Western states.

Bicycling magazine detailed several such incidents while I subscribed.

Rare, but possible.

First up.

Having the weapon concealed on the bike is rather a bad idea if the intent of the bad guy is to steal the bike...

Your first indication of anything wrong might simply be a pedestrian knocking you over at an intersection.

Now, he's got your pistol too...

Unfortunately, cycling gear isn't much designed for concealed-carry.

I have a little Taurus 2" 38 special as an "off-duty" weapon.

Drops right into my jersey pocket.

Sure, it "prints" there.

But then, I'm a cop...

I don't care.

A reasonable idea is the "fanny pack" (I've just been informed that Aussies call them "bum bags"...).As far as I know, you can still buy a fanny pack that is designed specifically to carry a firearm....

Seems like stuff made for joggers could work for cycling.

Would a small triangle frame bag work?

The kind I'm thinking of seem about the right size to hold a small-to-medium pistol, and fit on the rear end of the top tube.

Some sit on top, secured by the seat post, some hang under, secured by the seat tube.

Lots of options... http://www.google.com/images?q=triangle+frame+bag Or a frame bag designed to attach to the front of the top tube.

Or a handlebar bag...

I have a Bike Nashbar frame pack that would definitely fit a compact frame handgun:

Just ran across a line of holsters that look interesting.

Relatively low cost, so I may have to try one out to see how well it works.

I have one like the Nashbar frame pack, different brand but substantively the same thing.

Sucks that my Kahr PM-9, small though it is, adds pounds to my ultra-light bike, but in certain areas, I'd much rather not leave my firearm at home.

First off you'll have to wear mostly regular clothes.

Using an inside-the-waistband holster will suit you well.

You can tuck a shirt in over the holster, then if you wear a jacket over that, it will be completely hidden.

I have an MTAC holster , and I sometimes carry when I am buying or selling stuff from craigslist.

I've never had issues where it became visible that I was carrying.

One option that works well for me is using a belly band holster and a Ruger Lcp.

It hides easily under my cycling jerseys and is comfortable and secure even on 70+ mile rides in the heat of summer.

The only real issue is that the sweat can corrode the non stainless slide and spare magazine.

If you can spring for it get your slide and magazine covered at Robar in their NP3.

If not be sure to clean and re oil your gun after every ride.

bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26472/David A. Great Lakes State

I use an Assault III backpack with a waist strap and a drop leg holster modified to attach to my hip using the leg platform as a pad.

I have a Glock 29 and it works well on a mountain bike.

I pedaled my bicycle from Seattle to key west carrying two guns .

I used two safepacker holsters strapped through the waist band for a Fannie pack which was attached around my waist.

Just Google safepacker holsters to get to the sites .

On the early portion of the trip I carried a 44 magnum Alaskan redhawk, then switched it out with a glock 20 and ruger 380 incase my primary malfunctioned .I switched the 44 magnum to the glock 20 after I was out of the mountains.

My every day carry on my bicycle around Miami beach is a glock 29 and a ruger 380 still using two safe packer holsters.glock29's are serious firepower as is the glock 20 and 44magnum Alaskan red hawk.

The 44 magnum will will take care of all natural threats I am told while the glock 20 has a tad less firepower.

I carry either a Sig938 (9mm) or a S&W 640 Revolver (357 Mag) in a TommyGun fanny pack works like a charm

Question: For those of you that happen to cycle through rough neighborhoods and are able to do concealed carry of firearms...  Wondering what you wear to conceal them that works well while cycling.  Obviously the standard cycling outfit isn't going to do any good whatsoever...  Various back/fanny packs seem like they'd be inconvenient.  Most jackets that would work fine while walking would tend to "ride up" I'd think.  Just curious as to what works and what doesn't work.

How to carry a concealed firearm on a bike?

Fanny packs, frame packs, holsters and assault backpacks are some options for carrying a concealed weapon when cycling. Obviously the rider would have to wear normal clothing not cycling gear for the weapon to be concealed.

There seem to be many ways to carry a concealed firearm on a bike. A solution would be to use a fanny pack, which is specifically designed for that end, or a frame pack, such as a Bike Nashbar frame pack. It is also possible to use a waistband or leg holster, often paired with straps or fanny packs. Finally, it is important to wear regular clothes on top.

A solution would be to use a fanny pack, which is specifically designed to carry a firearm.

Some people prefer using a frame pack, such as a Bike Nashbar frame pack.

It is important to wear regular clothes to conceal your firearm.

It is possible to use a waistband or leg holster, often paired with straps or fanny packs.


Squealing can be reduced by "toe-in" - making the front part of the brake pad touch first.

Check out Park Tool's instructions on servicing side-pull brakes:

Squealing is the result of a harmonic resonance from a slip-and-stick phenomenon, similar to how a violin bow resonates on a string.

The brake pads grab the rim and are pulled forward by the force of the wheel.

The arms must at sometimes jerk backwards, but if you are still braking, the arms are flexed forward again.

This is repeated again and again many times per second, and this creates the squeal.

Because of this, flexible and less expensive arms tend to squeal more than stiff calipers of better brakes.

It is possible to reduce squeal by having the leading edge of the brake pad strike first.

This tends to reduce the back and forth jerking of the arms.

But before you go trying to toe-in, make sure you're working with parts in good shape: Examine your brake pads .

If they are old and hard, worn deeply, or full of junk, replace them.

Otherwise, use coarse sandpaper to take off the surface to bring out fresh rubber.

You only need to take off a tiny bit.

Clean your rims .

Road grime, bike lubes, and brake material all collect on your rims.

Rubbing alcohol, vinegar, Simple Green, a product marketed as "degreaser" can all work.

Don't let any get on the drivetrain or in the hubs.

Also, you'll need rags.

True your wheels .

There's no point in trying to adjust brakes on a wheel that isn't true (round and dished is good, too).

And you can't true a wheel if the hubs aren't in good shape.

Jay's answer covers most of it and you should start with his suggestions (toe-in and greasy rims

are big culprits).

I'll only add two things: Brake pad type can sometimes make a difference.

Kool-stop "salmon" pads are widely recommended to reduce problematic squeals.

Some bike setups are more prone to squealing, even with clean rims, new salmon pads and perfectly aligned brakes.

It's very unusual

but I had this problem on a previous bike (V-brakes on a carbon fork).

My bike with pull brakes, squeal like crazy...

New pads, clean rims, adjusted well, still squeal.

Roughed up pads, still squeal.

Now I put alittle baby powder on each side of Rim, just a dusting.

I put a little baby power in palm of hand, take finger, dab in powder and rub some on the rim, each side.

Fixed my brakes, stops good and no squeals.

The above answers cover the critical information, but I'd add that some brakes make "toe in" adjustment easy (offset washers, or other means).

Some brakes require that you bend/twist the arms.

For the latter, I'd recommend your local bike shop mechanic...

if for no other reason that brakes are important safety equipment, and are therefore worth being looked at by a pro.

Another cause for the noisy brakes is the brake pads not being fully tightened.

In my experience such noise is more commonly seen in cantilever brakes whose mechanism is well explained by Jay Bazuzi's response.

Painted wheel rims causes the squealing.

You can try rubbing it down with sandpaper or just wait for it to wear down...

hence why the talc works!

Question: My rear rim brakes are squeaking loudly. I don't know what the problem is, but I am sure it has nothing to do with rain because it happens all the time even if it is dry.  Anybody have an idea what could be problem and how to solve it? It makes the rear brakes kind of useless, because if I use them I will scare the people or drivers around me.

How do I make my rim brakes stop squealing?

When brake pads are squeaking, the first thing to do is check they are not worn out. If they are, they need to be changed. Otherwise, "toe in" procedure,  tightening them or rubbing them down with sandpaper may help. Alternatively, applying powder to the rims, rubbing alcohol, vinegar and Simple Green, a product marketed as "degreaser" can all work. Finally, salmon pads may be the answer to stopping the squeaking.

Flexible and inexpensive arms tend to squeal more due to their design. To stabilize the arms and reduce noise, you could make the leading edge of the brake pad touch first. This practice is called "toe-in". Another solution would be to check your break pads for damage or wear and make sure they are tightened. You could also try cleaning your pads with sandpaper. Alternatively, there might be a problem with your rims, especially if they are painted. Consider using a variety of products on your rims, including rubbing alcohol, vinegar, degreaser, sandpaper and baby powder. Finally, it is recommended that you use kool-stop "salmon" pads to reduce squealing, even though certain bike types cannot overcome this issue.

You can try rubbing it down with sandpaper or just wait for it to wear down…

A solution would be to check your break pads for damage or wear and make sure they are tightened. You could also try cleaning your pads with sandpaper.

There might be a problem with your rims, especially if they are painted. Consider using a variety of products on your rims, including rubbing alcohol, vinegar, degreaser, sandpaper and baby powder.

It is recommended that you use kool-stop "salmon" pads to reduce squealing, even though certain bike types cannot overcome this issue.


Downtube shifters will really get you in touch with your bike--more than with many other shifting systems, I believe that I can actually FEEL the rear derailleur moving in my hand when I use them.

Needless to say, I ride a lot of old road bikes.

You will quickly gain the control to shift either from various hand positions on your road bars.

Assuming the bike fits you, you should ultimately be able to use the shifters from nearly any position.

You will, of course, use the right hand to shift the rear derailleur and the left hand to shift the front.

I will talk mostly about shifting the rear derailleur, as it will require the most control and finesse.

Note also that these shifters each have two main parts that are pertinent here, the LEVER and the BARREL.

The lever is pretty obvious--it's the usually-flattened handle that sticks out.

The barrel is the round bit which is attached to the frame.

The cable wraps around this round bit--as you turn the shifter

, more or less cable is wrapped which is how the shifter moves the cable and thus the derailleur.

Ordinarily, when I reach down and the bike is in high gear--with the shift lever all the way forward and parallel with the downtube--I will grasp the lever by wrapping the thumb of my right hand over the end of the shift lever .

I press the side of my pointer finger against it and slowly pull back.

This motion has less control over precise gearing and is best suited for quickly downshifting before climbing.

If I am already in low gear and the shifter is out away from the downtube, I usually actually grasp the entire lever with my right hand.

In this mode, the tip of my thumb is on the barrel and my fingers are all wrapped around the shift lever.

Motion in either direction from this position can be very precise.

As I said, you can feel the derailleur move if you're cables are new and well-greased.

It's a good setup for shifters, in my opinion.

I can't say that I prefer downtube to integrated, but as far as simplicity is concerned... nothing beats it.

Except, perhaps, Sheldon Brown reaching down and putting his forefinger on the chain to move from upper to lower chainrings.

If you get a chance at the library, check out Understanding, Maintaining, and Riding the Ten-Speed Bicycle by Denise De la Rosa and Michael Kolin (Rodale Press, 1979).

This book describes shifting and using downtube shifters rather well, right down to the groovy 70's costume.

De la Rosa describes another method of hanging the thumb (I think)

off of the top tube while reaching with the same hand's fingers down to the shift lever.

This only would work on a frame smaller than mine, but it's another piece of cycling history.

I hope this helps.

It certainly took my mind off my work for a few minutes!

There's not much too it.

Reach down, move the lever until it's in the gear you want and adjust so there is no chain rattle.

You'll get the hang of it quick.

Downtube shifters can be hard to get used to.

When I first used them (after having more experience with on handlebar shifters)

I would feel a bit wobbly when trying to shift.

It really just takes practice.

If they are not indexed (click into gear) then just push the lever (up or down) until the gear changes.

If there is some chain rattle, then adjust until it goes away.

After a while it will be second nature.

I ride a Dawes Scorpion and it uses downtube shifters as well.

I learned how to shift both levers with my left hand, because I prefer to keep my dominant hand on the handlebars so to prevent wobblin' out on the road.

Spend some time on the bike, if your bike has down tube shifters I would suggest riding in a low position and get used to the balance of the bike when letting go with one hand.

It doesn't take long and you'll have no problem at all.

Simply ride only this bike for a couple of weeks

and you'll be all set.

After that go ahead and ride both.

I have two bikes as your describing and this is what I did.

Just a new habit to learn, don't over think it.

One thing downtube shifters will let you know right away is if your position is setup with your weight too far forward.

If you've got too much weight on your handsit will be very difficult to take one hand away without first sitting up.

If you want to make life simpler, replace the cog set on the back with a more modern Freewheel that has hyperglide cogs.

( Sunrace is reasonably good and easy to find ).

If you stick with the old stuff, you'll need to learn the art of slightly overshifting and then trimming back.

Eventually, you will learn to shift either lever with either hand, or even both at once with the same hand.

But it's simpler to start out by just using your dominate hand for both.

While it's hard at the start, try and keep your eyes on the road and learn to shift by the sounds.

Headphones and downtube shifters really don't mix very well.

bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8445/Fred the Magic Wonder Dog

Question: I have bought a vintage Campagnolo road bike, so the shifters are on the down tube.  I own a mountain bike and i am used to changing gears on that one, but don't know the proper technique to change on this one.  Update   I am concerned about the technique (which hand to use, how do you keep the other on the handlebar)  how do you know to shift in the correct position without an indexed shifter  other tips and tricks

How do I efficiently shift gears on a road bike with downtube shifters?

To get used to tube shifters, spending time on the bike is recommended. If your bike has down tube shifters riding in in a low position and getting used to the balance of the bike when letting go with one hand is also advised. There is a good book that covers the subject: Understanding, Maintaining, and Riding the Ten-Speed Bicycle  by Denise De la Rosa and Michael Kolin (Rodale Press, 1979).  While using tube shifters is hard at the start, the advice is to try and keep your eyes on the road and learn to shift by the sounds.

There are specific ways to use downtube shifters. Most characteristically, you could try placing your right hand to the rear derailleur and the left to the front end of the shift lever. That may vary, depending on the control, precision and speed required. In this context, you might want to familiarize yourself with your bicycle and experiment with riding in a low position or overshifting to find your balance. Another solution would be to pay attention to the sounds and downshift in case of any chain rattle. You could also refer to relevant publications to find more information.

You could refer to relevant publications to find more information.

A solution would be to pay attention to the sounds, specifically to downshift in case of any chain rattle. In this context, you should focus on the road and avoid headphones.

You might want to familiarize yourself with your bicycle and experiment with riding in a low position or overshifting to find your balance.


The best option would be to find a local bicycle co-op and offer them the parts.

(They would probably welcome bikes, rims, and tools.)

You may not be near a co-op; if that's the case, there are numerous "pay it forward" threads on bicycle forums, but you'd end up paying postage; useful for small or esoteric parts.

(I've given away a lot of stuff that way.)

You could also try Freecycle , but since that's more of a general audience, I doubt many people on those lists would even know what, say, a bottom bracket is , let alone how to use it.

For giving away a complete working bike, this might be an excellent option.

(Hey, their logo includes a guitar and a bike!)

BikeWorks3709 S. Ferdinand St.

Seattle, WA 98118, USA Bike Works

(See comments for more info.)

If you've tried all of the charities and bike co-ops in your area and are still left with a pile of parts, you could try offering them (free or for a nominal charge) to the bike hackers over on the Atomic Zombie Forums (or somewhere similar).

If they're parts then they'll probably be glad of them, if they're frames then they'll probably only take them if they're not aluminium.

You can never have too many tools.

Alternatively, depending on how much stuff you've got buy an arc welder and build your own trike or recumbent - plans here: Atomic Zombie Extreme Machines

I would just look for ads and/or post an ad on craigslist/kijiji.

I just saw an ad last week for someone looking for "old bike parts in any condition".

I kept the parts that I knew I could fix and that I would need and dropped the rest off to him.

In the Chicago area, donate those parts to Working Bikes Cooperative.

Working Bikes is a 501c3 non-profit with the goal of diverting used bicycles and parts from the waste stream.

Bikes and parts are redistributed to partners in developing countries, primarily in Africa and Central America; to local partners in Chicago; and sold as the means to fund the organization.

www.workingbikes.org for more info.

Working Bikes has drop off locations in Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, Indiana and more.

Question: I have many old bikes, parts, specific tools, etc. Where can I give them to?

I've got numerous bikes, bike frames, wheels, etc.that I'd like to donate

Bike parts can be donated at local bike coops or charities. Parts can also be offered on forums such as Freecycle or Atomic Zombie Forums. Finally, another oprion is posting an ad on craigslist or kijiji.

A good solution would be to donate the parts to a bicycle co-op, local or otherwise. Alternatively, you might consider offering or selling the parts to a bicycle community, for instance to members of the Atomic Zombie Forums or Freecycle. There are also a number of pay-it-forward schemes on bicycle forums. Finally, you may post or answer an add on advertisements websites, such as Craigslist.

There are a number of pay-it-forward schemes on bicycle forums.

You might consider offering or selling the parts to a bicycle community, for instance to members of the Atomic Zombie Forums or Freecycle.

You may post or answer an add on advertisements websites, such as Craigslist.


They recycle inner tubes into usable products, and will give you credit towards their products for recycling.

How about recycling them yourself?

Here are some ideas posted on the brilliant BikeHacks website.

Shoelaces, wallet, yarn, handlebar tape, top tube passenger seat, dog lead, Maglite handlebar attachment, rack, key chain bling, bike bell, repaired bike seat...

MEC in Canada accept dead inner tubes and tires, so i'm guessing REI in the states also will

Somewhat off topic

but when I was 13 (or something like that)

I went to a scout summer camp.

A bike shop had given the camp a big pile of used tubes.

It was Awesome.

We made tonnes of stuff with them that summer including giant sling shots between two trees.

I am not sure

but maybe an ad on kijiji or craigslist could find a home for these.

See http://www.ibike.org/environment/recycling/ for organizations that ship bikes to 3rd world countries.

I am a member of the Village Bicycle Project in Seattle WA we collect bikes and parts including usable tires and inner tubes.

Inner tubes with no worse than a simple puncture are accepted.

We do not encourage making usable inner tubes into designer handbags.

I've seen a number of local bike shops that were running programs to recycle old tires and tubes.

They never seem to keep running for a long time though, so it strikes me that there's some sort of problem with those, otherwise they'd keep going.

I suppose it's worth asking your LBS?

Green Guru ( greengurugear.com ) takes tubes.

If the store also sell the green guru gear they get a discount off the wholesale price and the will alternately pay for the shipping.

They have a pretty good price point too.

They will pick up anywhere in Colorado and have quite a few places to drop tubes in California and also in Minneapolis and near Charlotte, NC.

I think they are in REI and MEC now.

I have a way to repurpose them, but recycling is a hard thing to come by.

Right now its just a local project called Bicycle Re-Cycle, in Austin, TX but open for ideas and poeple willing to help make a difference.

check out http://bicycle-recycle.com/

Question: The local bike shop, not the wealthiest operation, has a pile of dead inner tubes growing on the floor. I'd love to discover something where used inner tubes are repurposed, melted down, made into something else. Similar to how e-waste is harvested and repurposed.  We have need for only so many rubber bands and so many bungees.

Is there a recycling program that accepts unrepairable inner tubes?

MEC in Canada accept dead inner tubes and tires, so probably REI in the states also will. The website  http://www.ibike.org/environment/recycling/  lists organizations that ship bikes to 3rd world countries. Green Guru ( greengurugear.com ) takes tubes. Moreover, there are a number of local bike shops running programs to recycle old tires and tubes. Finally, you could recycle them yourself.

You could try recycling used parts yourself or address certain recycling companies, like MEC, might accept unrepairable inner tubes. Another solution would be to look for non-profit organizations that may need parts. Finally, some companies, like Green Guru, or local bike shops may accept tubes for recycling purposes.

You could try recycling used parts yourself.

Certain recycling companies, like MEC, might accept unrepairable inner tubes.

A solution would be to look for non-profit organizations that may need parts.

Some companies, like Green Guru, or local bike shops may accept tubes for recycling purposes.


Baffling - place it on carpet or a rug (and several towels), this will both stop vibration through the floor and catch the drips of sweat.

I know this is an old question, but I think I have come up with a nice solution to this problem.

I am an engineer and I have dealt with some vibration issues in scientific equipment.

When I got my trainer and felt the vibration in the floor, I decided to apply the same principles to this problem.

Vibration vs. Acoustic Transmission

The first thing to realize is that there are two separate paths to be addressed here.

The first is acoustic: the sound your trainer makes in the air around it that may transmit to adjacent rooms.

The second is vibration: the motion that your trainer transmits into the structure supporting it (the floor).

Fortunately for me, my apartment has decent acoustic insulation, so what follows treats only vibration isolation.

If your neighbor can hear you talking

you may be out of luck.

Design

The first line of defense is to reduce the vibration created in the first place by using a smooth tire and a fluid trainer.

The rest must be dealt with in the isolator.

We need a material that will absorb the vibration energy.

I chose a material called Sorbothane .

We also need a material to spread the load of the trainer among the isolators.

For this I used Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) .

There is a practical limit to how much isolation can be achieved in a single stage, so I used a cascade of 2 stages (any more made it too unstable).

The Sorbothane is cut into small pieces in each layer.

Note that it is not just a matter of putting some amount of Sorbothane in the layer, you must optimize the pressure to produce the minimum possible natural frequency.

Following the equations provided here , I determined that I would use 6 isolators each 1.333"x2"x0.5"

(you can cut 6 out of a 4"x4" sheet).

That is for a 150 pound rider, a 15 pound bike, a 20 pound trainer, and 10 pounds of MDF.

If your total load is significantly different, you may want to re-run the equations.

You can get the Sorbothane on amazon .

Results

Here is what the setup looks like:

It works great!

You can feel the reduction as you move your finger from stage to stage.

Note that it is not the most stable thing in the world...

you have to get onto it very carefully.

But once you're on it this actually makes it feel a bit more natural since you can sway from side to side a little.

I picked up a set of interlocking rubber tiles (for gym equipment) at Home Depot to put under my trainer and bike.

They help with the vibration although I find it's still quite loud.

It also helps having neighbours that are noisier than me, they can't really complain about the bike.

There are tires ( tacx.com ) made specifically for the trainer.

They use a different rubber compound that will minimize wear and contact noise.

It won't help with the mechanical side of the trainer though.

As Zenbike says... Much of the noise is generated by the tires.

Any smooth harder-compound "slick" is going to be quieter than a tread with a lot of pattern.

The one I have now, a Minoura, is decently quiet.

I can't hear it over the TV.

However, my previous item generated a high-pitched buzz that was quite annoying.

I cut up some egg crate foam and used it to line a cardboard box that has a large 6 inch wide slit in it for my tire and just put the box over my trainer.

This worked extremely well, you just have to be sure to secure everything well so that nothing gets in the way of the trainer and tire.

You can also get thick styrofoam insulation sheets at Home Depot and fashion a box with appropriate slots for wheel and trainer stand.

There is special glue to glue the joints of the box together.

Aside from dampening it (foams) or switching to trainer specific tires (which will also last longer, like the Continental Hometrainer), the type of trainer plays a big part.

You can have a fan, something thats magnetic , fluid, etc.

- the fluid trainers tend to be quieter than the ones which are fans, for example.

Even within the same class, some models may be quieter than others.

So, you may be able to get quieter operation by appropriate trainer selection.

Belt dressing works wonders for the high-pitched squeal when pedaling.

You can get it at a good hardware or industrial hardware.

Spray it on the tire when pedaling.

I like in an apartment, use a trainer regularly and have never had any complaints (I use a cyclops fluid 2 trainer).

My strategy is to use a mat with a plank on top.

My thinking is the plank will spread the vibrations from the trainer more evenly into the mat, and thus further reduce the noise for the neighbors.

With regard to tyre choice, I have always used an indoor trainer tyre, which has little grip-

I'm unsure if this has any impact on noise.

Last but not least, probably the best thing you can do to reduce noise is get a fluid or magnetic trainer, as opposed to a wind trainer (although these are more expensive.)

I just got complaints from my downstairs neighbour, so I'm going to have to build a platform of some kind to dampen then sound.

In the past I used a layer of carpet with a sheet of plywood on top, but back then I had nicer neighbours who never even knew I riding indoors.

Question: I use a trainer at home. It works quiet. But living in an apartment I would like to make it work quieter. What can I do to minimize noise of a trainer?

What can be done to make a trainer work quieter?

Some trainers are noisier than others, so trainer selection is important if you need it to be quiet. To reduce noise, place the trainer on a softer surface that will damp the vibrations, like a carpet, a mat or some towels or styrofoam. Moreover, there are specific tires for trainers available on the market.

You could try insulating with the help of carpets, rugs, mats or even egg crate foam. More sophisticated and specialized alternatives to reduce noise include insulation sheets, isolators and a Medium-density fibreboard to balance the trainer's weight. Another solution would be to reduce vibration by means of an absorbent material, a different tire or fluid trainer. In this context, the type of tires may play a big part, as some smooth rubber compounds reduce contact noise. It is also possible to use belt dressing to reduce noise ,and squealing in particular. Finally, certain trainer models may be quieter, even within the same class.

A solution would be to reduce vibration by means of an absorbent material, a different tire or fluid trainer.

It is possible to use belt dressing to reduce noise ,and squealing in particular.

Certain trainer models may be quieter, even within the same class.

The type of tires may play a big part, as some smooth rubber compounds reduce contact noise.


The main difference with belt drive is that you can't break the belt, so you need a specially built frame that allows the belt to be fitted.

On a chain-driven bike the chain usually runs though the frame between the seatstay and chainstay.

This makes retrofitting a belt drive impossible on most bikes.

Similarly, you're limited to the belt lengths available from the manufacturer.

I have seen bikes with exposed belt drives but that does not seem like a good idea to me.

Once you get mud or dust in there it's going to grind away the belt and pulleys, and parts are usually expensive (because they're uncommon).

I don't know much about how they wear as I've never seen one that's had much use (which in itself should tell you something).

Once the belt is fully enclosed it becomes just like an enclosed chain drive, except that it can't be serviced by bike shops.

I suspect this is the real deal-breaker for most people.

Belts usually have higher losses than chain drives, making them unattractive for high-performance bikes and hindering their adoption in other bikes (because much of the profit for bike shops is in the more expensive bikes).

I've never ridden a belt-drive bicycle, but I've ridden both belt and chain drive motorcycles and the belt drive is considerably smoother and quieter.

One of the features being used to tout belt-driven bikes is that they don't require lubing, so that would be a plus.

In addition to not needing to take the time to properly lube your drive-train, the lack of lube would mean less attractant for dirt/dust etc.

Each manufacturer would probably have their own recommendations about operating temperature range and how often to change them.

Belt drives can't be used with derailleurs so the bike will be single speed or need an (expensive) hub gear.

There were some cars that used a belt drive, usually with a v-belt and split pulleys to give a continuously variable gear -

haven't heard of any bike doing this.

What are other properties with belt-drive chain?

Main differences compared to using a chain: belt does not need lubrication (less maintenance) as it is not lubricated, it attracts less dirt, and is cleaner, even if it is exposed (less danger to mess up clothing)

it has more friction/power loss than a chain (but less than a badly-oiled chain)

it stretches more than a chain under heavy load (so less suitable for high-performance cycling)

it needs a frame that can be split, because the belt cannot be split it cannot be combined with a derailleur Where is the idea got?

The idea is very old.

It was used in the first steam engines (and probable even earlier).

Are belt-driven chains used in cars or some machines?

Yes, they are quite common.

In particular, the alternator in a car is usually driven by a belt.

Are they durable?

Do they last in all kind of weather?

Like in freezing winter to sunny summer?

I don't know specific numbers, but they should last at least as long as a chain, and modern belts should have no trouble with high/low temperatures (they are used in cars as well, after all).

Do they stretch like steel chains?

Actually, steel chains don't strecht (noticeably), the just get longer from wear.

Belts on the other hand do strech under load (see above).

When should you change them?

No idea, but they should last considerable longer than a chain (less wear).

(I know that this is an old question, but nobody has answered it with real-world experience.)

I have a 'Scott Venture 10' as a suburban utility bike since two years.

I don't ride it as much as my road bike, but it has seen its share of use.

It has a carbon-fibre reinforced drive belt, and Shimano Alfine hub gears.

There a couple of advantages that I can think of:

It doesn't require any maintenance.

(Or at least much less than a conventional chain.

Especially when riding in rain.)

I don't have to tuck my trousers into my socks to keep them clean/whole.

When walking past the bike in the shed I don't risk ruining my trousers by rubbing against a dirty chain.

According to the manufacturers the estimated life of a belt is significantly longer than that of a chain.

The main disadvantage is (as mentioned above) that it requires a split frame, which one would naively think would reduce rigidity.

The manufacturers claim that this is not the case, however...

It's also quite a bit more expensive (and specialized) to replace.

An ideal chain is more efficient than a belt, but in most real-world scenarios there is no real difference.

Question: This reply about belt-driven belt got my interest  here . It does not need lubrication at all according to the replier. What are other properties with belt-drive chain? Where does the idea come from? Are belt-driven chains used in cars or some machines? Are they durable? Do they last in all kind of weather? Like in freezing winter to sunny summer? Do they stretch like steel chains? When should you change them?

Properties with Belt-driven Chains?

Belt drive is not exclusive to bikes. It dates back to the first steam engines, and is also used in car alternators. One of the main problems is that belt-driven bikes have higher losses in terms of friction and power, and stretch more under weight, which compromises performance. Moreover, the structure of belt-driven bikes is more specialized, hence they are more difficult and expensive to replace. There are also limitations regarding the length of the belt and the gears. On the other side, the advantages of belt drive include less maintenance, as lubing is not required, greater product life and a cleaner bike. Regardless, some argue that, in real terms, there are no great differences between chain and belt drive.

You might want to consider that the structure of belt-driven bikes is more specialized, hence they are more difficult and expensive to replace. There are also limitations regarding the length of the belt and the gears.

The advantages of belt drive seem to include less maintenance, as lubing is not enquired, greater product life and a cleaner bike.

In real terms, there are no great differences between chain and belt drive.


Get yourself two hose clamps that'll fit around the tube and some rubber strips to put under then

so they don't scratch the paint up too badly.

They'll hold a bottle cage on just fine.

If you can see under the dirt and grime, that's exactly how the bottle cage in this picture is mounted: Edit: Here's another picture of a bottle cage mounted with hose clamps (not mine).

The Twofish Quick Cage has worked well for me.

Not terribly pricey, and easy to reposition as needed.

Not as secure as the hose clamp solution, however.

I know this isn't what you asked, but have you considered a Camelbak ?

Are you only considering a frame mount?

If not, there are options for mounting a cage on the seat rails , seat post , and handlebars .

In addition, if the frame is all that you'll consider, there are a number of options for "clamp-type" water bottle systems .

You didn't mention, but if you have a carbon frame you'll need to choose an appropriate clamp so as not to damage the frame.

Not sure if you use a seat bag?

An option is to switch from a seat bag to a dual-mount seat-rail water bottle cage; and then, carry your extras in something like this, http://www.amazon.com/Tacx-Tool-Tube-Storage-Bottle/dp/B002SR0JRM and if you're frugal, a water bottle could be cut-down for the purpose.

I've been facing the same issue, trying to mount an additional bottle cage to the underside of the downtube on my mountain bike.

I haven't settled on one particular solution yet, but I found this site helpful as it outlines various different solutions: http://www.nordicgroup.us/cageboss/

As a Strida owner, I've struggled with exactly this problem.

I went with the KLICKFix solution, and couldn't be more pleased.

It's not always

I like to carry a bottle, so

I really like the fact that I just remove the whole thing in a split second.

Another option is to fit additional threaddd mounts to your frame.

This works fine if your frame is steel , but I wouldn't try this on a carbon or aluminium frame.

The threaded insert is called a rivnut or a nutsert and looks like this: You would drill two holes in your steel frame barely big enough for the OD of your nuts, press the nuts into place, and then use a rivnut tool or a suitably-threaded nut and bolt to crush the rivet part closed.

The thread is 5 x 0.8mm and is the same as your normal water bottle mount bolts, and coincidentally many wheel skewers too.

Epoxy or JB Weld would be a good idea too to help stabilise the insert.

You can also hire rivnut tools from hire companies - they're not cheap.

On a carbon frame I used cheap Zefal Gizmo mounts for attaching kit the way it was intended.

Below you can see it carrying a Kryptonite Modulus lock on my bike

but you can obviously attach a bottle cage or whatever and wherever you like.

I did 100s of miles with it without any issue.

I'm not sure if the mounts came with rubber strips as you can see on the picture.

I may have used some spare ones from cycle light mounts for extra grip and protection.

You could cut out such strips from an old tube.

Question: I only have one set of water bottle mount screws on my bike.  I would like to have an additional water bottle.  Ideally I would like to mount the bottle on the frame (preferably on the vertical tube).  Bonus: Can I order/build in Canada?

Mount additional water bottle on bike frame with only one water bottle mount

There are a number of solution for attaching another water bottle to the bike. Twofish Quick Cage and KLICKfix are two. Mounts for the fram can also be bought for attaching extra equipment. Moreover, mounts can also be attached to the seat, seat post and handlebars.

It is possible to use a water bottle system based on clamps or attach thread mounts for additional support. Additionally, you could consider mounting a cage on your bike. There are a number of relevant products available.

There are a number of products available.

It is possible to use a water bottle system based on clamps.

You might want to attach thread mounts for additional support, for instance Zefal Gizmo mounts.

You could consider mounting a cage on your bike. A good choice would be the Twofish Quick Cage.