As described in this article on minecraftwiki.net , Ambience (sometimes called cave noises) is a set of sounds that occasionally plays when the player is in close proximity to an unlit cave .

Despite their name, they are not sounds that one would expect to hear inside of a cave, such as falling pebbles, but rather supernatural noises frequently likened to ghostly train whistles, rice rockets, and demon roars.

Ambient sounds require that a space at least 3×3×3, entirely at light level zero, be positioned ten to twenty blocks away from the player in any direction.

The space does not need to be sealed off - a sound can even play from a space that the player can actually see - nor does the player need to be underground to hear it.

The sounds can also come from player-created spaces, even if that space is a box above the clouds.

Contrary to popular insistence, ambience is not an indicator of nearby ore , dungeons , or mobs .

Following them can still lead the player to such things indirectly, since they emanate from unexplored caves.

I don't think it means anything significant, definitely not that there's a dungeon around.

I have noticed that I tend to hear it as I descend into darkness or reach the surface during the day,

so I believe that there are triggers to improve the mood, just not ones that are related to dungeons (yet).

I've heard it when entering a dark area when I'm caving before put torches up.

This has happened regularly enough to make me think it is a trigger for the scary music, but may be just a coincidence.

The train-like noise means that you're near an unlit undiscovered cave system.

One of the noises of which I'm not sure means that you're near a dungeon, but the only problem is that you can't tell whether to dig in front of you, behind you, up, down, left, or right.

As far as I can tell the music is mostly meaningless.

I have heard that it signifies morning has come

but it doesn't always play then.

I think it's more there to just freak you out or get you inspired than it is to serve any mechanical purpose.

Question: Apparently it means there is a dungeon around but I can never find any?  If it does mean dungeons how far away will it trigger?

What does Minecraft's scary music mean?

The music could be meaningless or it is a set of sounds that are played when in proximity to an unlit cave.

While many think it is mostly meaningless, it does appear to happen when the player is close to an unlit or unexplored cave.

Users believe it starts when the player is close to a dark area


Review scores don't seem to affect your chances; only the game's stats.

Also possibly the game's combination, but you should never make a game that doesn't have an "Amazing" combination (more $!).

I'm not sure whether or not creativity has a bigger influence on your Grand Prize chances than the other stats.

Also, review scores don't mean anything anyway.

If you save your game right before you kill the last bug, and you get a review score of 37, restart the app.

You might get a review score of 36.

Restart again, you might get a review score of 40.

Make a really really good game!

It's got to do with lucky but hire as many hackers as you can, choose a "Creative" or "Amazing!" combination.

Make sure you use some pretty high stats people to create the game.

Also promoting it while in development helps!

I've won that 5 times so far, here is my combination, hope this helps - Dance + Motion - Music + Drum - Adventure + cowboy - Online RPG +

Hunting - Online RPG + Historical Dont know what exactly makes the Grand Prize, but all these games getting review score > 37 and sell more than 40,000,000 copies.

It's very easy.

All you got to do is get a score of 33 or more and then name it gamedevstory.

I know the first 3 awards are based on scores, but I always thought the grand prize was based on timin.

The next game in the pattern of names is usually the game to be chosen after you tap the screen.

I've had games up to 39 and sold number one games back to back over at least 7+ years (3 games per year) and never won the grand prize.

Plus seeing that the game gives you two chances to "pick" a name seems to make me thing the grand prize is another mini game.

I have an android phone by the way, not iphone or ipod.

I just won for the first time!

I had a combo of shooter (level 5) and robot (level 5) with the lowest score (sound) of 210 and the highest (fun) with 317.

The game's score was 38.

I named it "Medal of Honor".

I won on my 89th year.

I found out that you have to have a lot of fans.

I had 38 points and the game was for the console that I made.

The combination I used for my game was action ninja

and I sold 25 million copies of it.

Hire the best employees and train them a bit.

There is no known way to guarantee you will win, took me a while to win my first one, but once you win make a sequel for it the next year, almost works every time.

Question: I've played Game Dev Story for iPhone for quite a while now, and winning a GGA Grand Prize seems to be quite difficult.  So far, I've only won one, despite high (36+) review scores on many games.  The one time I won the Grand Prize, I released 4 Hall of Fame level games that year, and ended up winning Best Design, Best Sound, Runner Up, and Grand Prize.  Is this the only way to win the Grand Prize?

How do you win a Global Game Awards Grand Prize in Game Dev Story?

You need to get a score or 33 or more and name it gamedevstory. Only the game's stats seem to affect your chances.

While opinions are split as to whether review scores play a role in a game winning awards, with many saying they don't and some saying they do, other things such as having lots of fans, promoting the game or training your employees are also factors in this.

Users suggest that review scores don't count towards awards, however one user suggests that it does indeed play a role.

Having a lot of fans and promoting it seems to be a component.


Here are a couple ideas.

Foremost, after a while you just get a "feel" for when a zombie is dead, or when he is still coming after you.

You know about how much damage it takes.

Note that different difficulties will require you to get different feels for this, so you'd need to play on the same one for a while.

Alternatively, you can switch your fire between a couple of zombies.

A bullet usually stops or at least slows down a zombie, even if he is going to continue rushing at you.

This gives you some time to deal with other zombies that may have gotten ahead in the rush due to this.

You can always come back to the first zombie later on if you discover he's really still alive.

Note that you can't rely on their "animations" per se because of the ragdoll physics.

If a zombie starts falling, he's dead, but quite often they take a full second or more before they actually begin to fall.

You can't rely on a certain pose or position to indicate that a zombie is dead.

Just for the record, this is supposed to add to the terrifying feel of the game (which I completely agree with)

However, if you raise the gamma a bit, then you will be able to see that the zombies start to fade when they die, even if they're still standing.

That's always worked for me.

The best way I have found to be sure a lone zombie is dead it to try to walk through them.

A living zombie will stop you, but you can walk right through a dead one.

If they stop you, just push them back and shoot them again.

If you fighting a hoard, shoot at multiple layers of zombies.

When the front one dies, you will just start hitting the back ones.

I might be wrong, but they only "fade" in the censored versions of the game.

There is no way to be sure 100%, if a body shot has killed a CI or not.

The only way to be sure is landing a head-shot, especially with pistols and the assault rifle.

It's a whole different story in L4D 2 with the introduction of melee weapons, but I won't get into that.

Set your Left 4 Dead launch options to include -lv That way all killed zombies will fade away immediately.

Count bullets.

Seriously, that's what I do.

It's not something I actively do anymore, now it's more of a feel but occasionally I still catch myself mentally counting.

As soon as the dead count is reached I just assume the zombie is dead, whether it's standing or not.

Because of this I prefer the AK47 (2 to body always kills), the magnum (one anywhere) and the snipers(one anywhere).

It's a little harder with the desert eagle, the trick is to not count each bullet but count each burst.

For me the m16 is just a bullet fest.

Obviously there are some caveats.

If I'm boomed and in a zombie rush

I often just empty my clip at head

level(unless

I've got a sniper).

Anytime

I see a headshot

the zombie is dead.

My technique doesn't work well in expert mode.

Question: In Left-4-Dead, zombies don't always fall immediately when killed (especially with a pistol or machine gun), but instead there is a delay. Since I've currently been shooting zombies until they fall, I've been wasting bullets. How do you figure out when to stop shooting and when to move onto the next zombie?

How can I avoid wasting shots on zombies that are already dead, but haven't fallen in Left-4-Dead?

The only way to be sure is with a head shot. Try raising the gamma so you can see when zombies start to fade.

There are a variety of ways that you can do this, the most practical way being just switching fire between zombies a lot. Counting bullets you have fired or making sure they are dead with a headshot also works. You can also tweak the in game settings by raising gamma and adding -lv to the launch options.

Users suggest tweaking the game's settings

Users suggest ways in the game to know when one is killed


Although you can play and enjoy it, AC2 is a direct sequel to AC1, so I'd suggest you play the first one to fully grasp the whole story.

The final part of the game is very entertaining and made it worth for me to play thorugh the repetitive parts.

AC3 will be the final part in the trilogy, completing it like one big game.

If you don't want to invest that much time in AC1, I don't think you'd miss too much if you just read the plot summary on Wikipedia and watch the ending on YouTube .

AC2 was an improvement over the original in pretty much every aspect (particularly storytelling) and I don't think you'd be lost.

I played AC2 without playing AC1, and I didn't feel like I was missing out on anything.

The main part of the game's story after all, is the section in the past, and the AC2 past sections take place in a different time period to those in AC1.

The "modern day" part does make a few back references, but these are mostly self explanatory.

You can never go back.

AC1 is not a bad game on its own, but if you think you ever want to finish it in the future I implore you not to start the second one.

The second one, like others have mentioned, smoothed out the rough parts and made AC2 a much more enjoyable experience.

Unfortunately that makes it sound like AC1 is crud.

Of course it isn't, if it was AC2 never would have made it to market.

If you play AC2, if you even watch somebody else play AC2

your enjoyment of AC1 will be lessened and you will find playing it to be a slog through the slow parts.

If you are the type of person who likes playing a game through, don't do AC2 first.

If you're not, skip AC1.

There's also a DS game, which I understand is a prequel to AC1

but I've never played it.

You have no reason to play a game you are not enjoying.

I played through both games and AC2

is a much improved sequel in every way.

That's not to say AC is bad, I really enjoyed it.

But if you are not enjoying it, don't play it.

Read a summary of the AC1 story, see the cinematics on YouTube and play Assassin's Creed 2.

Question: How much of the storyline carries over to the second version? I'm considering skipping to AC2 since I've heard its quite a bit more varied and generally a better game.  AC1 was fun in the beginning but now I get the feeling I'm just repeating the same things.

Is it worth finishing Assassin's Creed 1 before playing 2?

AC2 is a direct sequel but you wouldn't miss that much if you just skipped to it.

It is important to play the first game to fully grasp the story. However many people also say that you can catch up on it pretty well from reading about it.

User suggests to only watch the story parts of the game to catch up


The canonical example would have to be EVEmon .

Not only does it let you monitor your skill queue from outside the game and notify you when training finishes, but it also has an excellent ship and item browser that lets you quickly look up the statistics on anything you're interested in as well as find out whether you have the necessary skills to use it.

Eve Fitting Tool is useful for planning your future ship builds.

You can export it to Evemon to automatically generate an optimized learning plan as well.

An excellent resource for finding 3rd party tools is the Third Party Tools category on EVElopedia

I highly recommend Eve Commander .

It's not an application, but rather a webapp that manages all kinds of information for you.

Great interface, lots of useful stuff, very responsive developer.

It's not free, but paid for with in-game money.

The prices are very reasonable, it was easily affordable and worth the money even for me as an Eve newbie.

I use these: ( link with URLs http://eve.nako.us/tools/external-tools-for-eve-onine ) EVEMon - EVEMon is a lightweight, easy-to-use standalone Windows application designed to assist you in keeping track of your EVE Online character progression.

EveHQ EveHQ is an extensible character application for use in conjunction with Eve-Online.

Initially starting out as a character monitor and skill planner, EveHQ adopted a plug-in system where additional modules could be created independently of the main application which would extend the functionality of the program as a whole.

EFT - EVE Fitting Tool

Wormhole Thingie - Shows some useful info on wormholes and w-space systems.

EVE Asset Manager

MyPOS Eve-Metrics Market upoader Eve-central Upload Utility 2D Maps , PDF DOTLAN Eve Maps EVEMap is an out of game map of the EVE universe.

I am using http://eve.grismar.net/explorer/index.php quite often to find stuff in EVE.

Most of the time I am looking for a new agent for a certain corp.

Most other tools don't let me specify as much conditions to limit what is show to me.

I can i.e. say "I want a agent for Federation Navy that provides lvl 4 missions, mostly kill missions, resides in 0.5+ systems, and is available with my standings."

I would recommend taking a look at EVEHQ , it covers most of the information exposed by the API.

Question: What tools do you suggest to use on the desktop (Windows) to help me with the game. I know there is an API that exposes a lot of information. I was thinking that it would be nice to have a tool that would show me my expenses and sales on the market to be able to analyze it, maybe export to excel, etc.

External tools for Eve Online

Eve Fitting Tool, Commander and HQ are useful tools.

Useful tools that help with the game are EVEmon, Eve Fitting Too, Eve Commander and EveHQ

People recommend a variety of tools to help with the game.


Having everything in one launcher is nice, but the big advantage is that it will try to enable the steam in-game interface.

This isn't always a good thing - you may want to disable it for some games if it makes them unstable.

Launching non-steam games from steam will also display to your friends that you are playing that game.

For me, this is a critical feature.

It will not track your play time on that game, however.

Update: You can now in-home stream non-steam games if you add them.

Thanks to the other replies for mentioning this.

The advantages (already mentioned) are that you can have all game shortcuts in one place, other people can see you playing that game and you have Steam overlay in-game.

There are also some disadvantages.

If you are downloading or updating a game on Steam launching the non-Steam game stops the download/update; this is the default behavior of Steam.

Useful if you are playing a multiplayer game, but annoying if you are playing a single player game.

But the main disadvantage is that not all games are compatible with Steam overlay.

Just as example I can cite League Of Legends.

If you try to chat during game the chat stoles the focus and you game does not get anymore key inputs; the only workaround in this case is Alt+Tab to desktop and than return to the game.

Non-Steam games added to Steam can be streamed with In-Home Streaming.

This way you can let your ever eager to play friends know what you're busy doing besides games.

Sometimes I'm playing Microsoft Visual Studio 2017 , so everyone knows I'm not really up to much else at the moment.

Also, it's fun to be playing ridiculous non-game stuff.

And games are about fun, so it's a nice feature.

Having all your game library all in one place has the advantages of having only one launcher which can lead to a cleaner desktop.

It allows you to remember those older or indie games you don't play as often anymore.

Using Steam allows you to make screenshots and chat via the steam chat system (including voice comms if set up) even if the game itself doesn't allow it.

I've found the screenshot feature very useful.

These days, it also enables Steam Gamestreaming if you add a non-steam game to your steam library so all your friends can watch in envy as you play Elite: Dangerous.

Question: Is there a point in adding a non-Steam game to Steam?   Are there any advantages besides being able to launch the game from within Steam?

Is there any point in adding a non-Steam game to Steam?

You can have all the game shortcuts in one place. It also enables gamestreaming if you add a non-steam game to your library.

There are a variety of pros to this, chief among them being that you have all your games in one place, and this allows you to remember what you have better. It also allows you to stream the games you play, show them to your friends and make screenshots of them.

Users say that it is good to keep all games in one place.

Users also say it has the advantage of allowing to stream the games.

It allows players to remember their old games.

Users say they find it nice that they can show their friends what they are playing


If you are playing SMP, December 1st, 2010 update removed the /home command, and December 3rd, 2010 update added a /kill command, which will kill you upon issuance.

In SSP, there is no 'immediate' way to kill yourself without some additional setup, or handy terrain.

Just stack about 25 blocks underneath you by jumping & placing a block underneath you (at the height of your jump).

After your stack is built sufficiently high, simply step off the edge to your death.

This stack can be made of dirt, sand, or any block which you have an excess of at the moment.

Once you work out how many blocks you have to stack before the fall will kill you, it will only be a sub-second fall before you're dead.

Also, the stack itself should only take about 10 seconds to build.

Tip:

Use shears to cut leaves from trees, and build your stack out of leaf blocks for a self-destroying structure (the leaves will slowly disappear over time)

in order to prevent your world filling up with random columns of blocks.

Lava will also do the trick if you have some nearby.

If your goal is to return to the spawn point, then the /home command might do what you want.

If you are near water just dive in and sink to the bottom...

It will take a while and it will be hard to recover any items you drop.

Question: Is there a way to kill yourself immediately in Minecraft? Without using normal methods like dropping sand or gravel on top of yourself or letting mobs attack you without fighting back, something like the  kill  command in Quake-like games?

Is there a way to kill yourself immediately?

Try the home command or try using lava or diving into water.

While the /home command has been removed, the /kill command does the same job now. In the game, jumping off 25 blocks can also do it, but lava and water also work the same.

Commands can do this well say users.
There are also easy ways in the game


Vortex fits with everything, really.

Fireball and Blades give the most damage.

Snow Storm is also a very good spell to combine with Vortex: the combination makes the spell duration four times longer and is very effective for both targeted and area casting.

The best combinations for me are: Vortex + Snow Storm (Damage + Stun +

Very Long Duration/ Large Area + Targeted = 4x Area)

Vortex + Blades (Damage + Stun + Long Duration/ Area =

4x Targeted)

Fireball + Blades (Massive Damage/Targeted)

Fireball + Force Push (Large Damage/Targeted + Area) Never combine Snow Storm with Shock, Fireball or Force Push though; these combinations suck.

Fireball + Shock is what I always used.

It looks neat and it pretty much destroys anything when fully charged.

Use it when you are surrounded by a lot of enemies.

Not only does it cause considerable damage, but also stuns them for 4 seconds or so, allowing you the time to safely charge up another finishing blow.

I think you want spells that both stun and hurt the enemies, so: Fire, Shock, Blades and Storm do damage Vortex, Force Push and Shock (again) seem to stun or push back

I'm not sure, but

from experience, one from each category works the best, and after that it's just personal preference.

Vortex + Blades got me through a large portion of the game.

Vortex throws the enemies around, while the blades auto-hit for a good amount of damage.

It isn't as impressive when throwing the spells in a particular direction, but it really shines when doing the area attack.

I found Shock + Vortex and Fire + Blades to be the 2 greatest combinations.

Personally, I use one that "fits me", which is Vortex + Snow, though I don't know if you would like it, so I won't say it's the "best".

Either way there is no such thing as the "best" combination of spells.

It depends on what you like most.

Damage?

Fire + Blade.

Duration?

Vortex + Snow.

Both?

Vortex + Shock.

Try them all and see which one fits you best.

Question: Is there a significant difference between different combinations of spells in Fable 3? I've found Shock + Vortex to be satisfyingly destructive. But are there better combinations? Do some combinations get bonuses, or is it a matter of taste?

What combinations of spells are the most effective?

Fireball and Blades or Fireball and Shock give the most damage.

A combination of the following is the best you can do, fireball, blades, shock, vortext and fire.

A variety of combinations are suggested.


You can get your own place if you follow the main quest.

For this one you can also buy upgrades.

There is an earlier opportunity to rent a motel room (forever).

There are two 'homes'.

When you reach Novac, there is a Motel room you can rent, which is safe to store stuff and rest in, and if you complete the quest One for My Baby by accusing the actual perpetrator, you'll receive it permanently at no charge.

Further along the main quest, once you reach The Strip, you'll be given access to the Presidential Suite at the Lucky 38 Hotel and Casino.

This functions more like the house you gained in FO3, in that when you dismiss companions, you can have them wait for you in the Suite, and you can purchase various 'upgrades' to add more style and functionality to the apartment.

There are also several mods that add additional crafting resources or other customizations, if you're playing on the PC.

You also get a room for free at the Wrangler once you have collected every debt and taken care of the previous debt collector (which is the last task of that quest).

You can use Victor's shack in Good Springs: that's the first house you can get.

You've got a bed to sleep in, a sink which is purified, a oven to store your aids, a couple of ammo boxes to store weapons and ammo, and also a desk to store your miscellaneous stuff.

It's also free of charge; there's no need to rent a motel room.

Get in a house, kill whoever is in there, and just stash your stuff there.

For example: Kill Victor (you are gonna do it anyway in the storyline, unless you are the kind of guy that does anything you're told and be House's dog) and take his shack.

Also, there are several abandoned places which would do just fine.

All you need to do is find Harper's Shack.

It's just north and east of hidden springs.

It has a campfire outside for crafting, a reloading bench, a workbench, lockers, storage boxes and a bed.

The only downside is it's near a deathclaw cave.

Easily avoidable and/or assaulted

The Jean Sky Diving shack, down the road from Goodsprings, is also a good storage house with only two Powder Gangers and some Bloatflies out back.

There is also an unoccupied shack right next to a burial ground near Good Springs.

The only downside is there are a small portion of Radscorpians.

There is a general store in Nipton, inside there is a harmless powder ganger.

Kill him.

The store contains a bed and a safe you can put your stuff in.

Question: I was wondering if you can get your own house in Fallout: New Vegas like you did in Fallout 3?

Can you get your own house?

You need to follow the main quest. You can get a room for free at Wrangler, or use Victor's Shack in Good Springs. There is also Harper's Shack, Jean Sky Diving shack and an unoccupied shack next to a burial ground.

You can simply follow the main quest. There are however a number of shacks and houses that you can accupy, like a room at the Wrangler, Victor's shack etc. There is also the option of using mods to add housing options of course.

There are a number of houses that can be occupied on the map, say players

Mods can also add houses for the player.


Place dirt right underneath the crazy currents and it should sort itself out automatically.

If it doesn't, add a source block to the place all the water flows to.

The problem is that there are missing source blocks (aka spring blocks) from the top level of the lake.

Since water source blocks only replicate if there is a empty block that is adjacent to two source blocks and has a normal block underneath it (no glass, reeds, mob spawners or anything like that.)

it can't refill the top layer of a deep lake.

One way to fix it is to make it a shallow lake by placing dirt under it, but this can lead to underwater currents when the block is removed.

The cleanest way to fix it is to re-fill that missing source block with a bucket.

But you say there is no solid block to pour the bucket out on to?

Then place a block above it!.

And dive under it, look up and dump a bucket of water.

No underwater currents created!

Of course, in my example pictures, it's only 2 blocks deep, so a dirt block on the bottom of the lake would have worked just as well.

There's a new solution to this that requires Creative mode in multiplayer, and even works underwater.

First, go into creative mode fill the affected area with ice blocks.

You can enable Creative in multiplayer by typing /gamemode <username> creative in chat.

Next, go back into Survival mode ( /gamemode <username> survival ) and smash them with a pickaxe.

Ta-da!

The smashed ice blocks are now water source.

In version 1.5 (and beyond), this issue of non-source blocks mussing up your lakes can only occur if you lake has missing source blocks (flowing water) all the way to the bottom of the lake.

this can drown your animals, so there is more reason than ever to repair it.

To fix it, place blocks on the bottom of the lake under any flowing water.

This will recreate and update all the rest of the water all the way to the surface.

if this doesn't fix everything, place another layer.

Large areas of flowing water (from supercharged creeper blasts or improperly made artificial lakes) may require placing a bucket of water or two on the blocks you have placed.

When it is fixed, you may remove all the blocks you have placed.

I've had trouble with this as well.

My solution was to wall off my pool into 4-by-4

(1 deep) cells and fill those with water using the "endless well" technique of emptying a water bucket into two opposite corners.

Once you've filled every cell, you can start breaking down the walls between the cells one block at a time.

Sometimes the same effect that makes the endless well work will fill the removed block fully.

Sometimes it won't.

If it doesn't, empty a bucket directly onto the space.

For pools more than one block deep, completely fill the bottom layer and then build the cell network for the next higher level "suspended" over your filled layer and continue the process.

Repeat ad infinitum .

Obviously this takes a lot of time and effort.

Of course in your case, since you just have one "little" problem area (compared to the total area of your pool), try walling off just that area, removing the water, and trying my method above, destroying the outer walls last.

The key is to remember that water in a bucket is a block just like everything else.

Warning:

This answer may no longer be applicable to the current version of Minecraft.

I'm glad I'm not the only one bothered by this.

I try to avoid this situation entirely by constructing the pool in such a way as to avoid this --

Start with a 1 tile deep pool and fill it with water.

You won't have any of the crazy water flows if you fill each space with a water source block, and the water will help by self replicating.

Once you've got your one block deep pond working properly, simply dig down, one layer at a time (yes, underwater mining!)

until you reach the desired depth.

I've created a mod that fixes this problem.

It's available here .

Create a rectangular dirt perimeter around "troubled waters", with 2 wide, 2 deep cross-section, having 2 cubes above water level and 2 below.

Working from outside corner, strip away upper outside edge, allowing water to advance 1 square towards centre.

The revealed underwater cube (x-section is now "L" shaped")

prevents creation of a downwards flow and the one above water level prevents flooding of the central area.

This revealed strip of underwater cubes can now be safely removed and reclaimed.

Repeat this 2x2 construction inside previous perimeter, successively shrinking it towards the centre each time.

Under the block that is "oddly" flowing, place a block under it it works for me.

Here is a suggestion: if you have ice blocks, place them where the crazy currents are and break them.

If you have no ice, then you will need a bucket of water, an infinite water source and some scaffolding.

Like with the ice, place your scaffolding over all the currents, except one.

Empty your bucket there.

Refill the bucket using your infinite water source.

Then break another scaffold and empty your bucket there.

Rinse and repeat.

Question: It may be my inner OCD, but situations like this annoy me to no end. Sometimes, a patch of water is "ruined" for no apparent rational reason and all attempts to restore it to normality are met with failure.  My latest attempt was building dirt where the currents were, then removing it. The result is pictured. :/  Is there something I can do about it, or is it just a glitch?

How can I level water?

Place dirt underneath the crazy currents and make a shallow lake.

What most people will tell you is to place a block under the water that is flowing or using ice blocks. However the cleanest way to do it is to re-fill the missing source block with a bucket.

Users suggest using blocks placed under the water.

Players suggest re-filling the missing source block with a bucket.


The fastest way I've found so far is in Mahogany Hall; it requires a very high Persuasive skill.

If you train the Louche Devil and teach him Philosophy, you'll get 111 Nevercold Brass Slivers per action and increase your Pygmalion quality.

When Pygmalion reaches 17 or 18, you should be safe to take him out to a Society dinner, which gives you 1000 bonus slivers.

You can then re-train him as often as you like to rack up lots of Echoes.

If you want to do it with your Dangerous, head to the third coil of the Labyrinth of Tigers.

"Avoid becoming an exhibit yourself" and "Fight back" for ~1 Echo per action.

(Most of the actions in the third coil earn ~1 Echo per action, but they require a very high Persuasive as well.)

This is a difficult one to answer; given the link between Stories and Qualities, it will be different dependant on what is available to you.

As a general rule, completing a series of linked Stories will carry greater reward, but this can become inefficient if the Story is difficult for the determining Quality (failed attempts receive no monetary reward).

As for a specific tip; I would recommend searching the ruins in the forgotten quarter in the early game.

The reward for the lowest level option is based solely on luck, and the cost of entry can be reasonably quickly reclaimed.

10 x relics @

5p with a 50% success rate = 25p/adv.

It appears that you gain more valuable goods for completing more challenging stories.

I would suggest focusing on a single statistic to unlock more rewarding stories.

Risky and Chancy challenges seem to increases stats very quickly.

When you want more loot per action, seek out easier stories.

Keeping on hand

Second Chance items earned through social activities (Chess, etc) improves your chances of success in stories and is worth spending a few actions on.

I think most storylets are pretty well balanced.

Labyrinth of Tigers and Mahogany Hall can give you about an Echo per success, but you also need stats of 90-100 to play.

So if all you're after is money, concentrate on one stat, because the rewards seem to be tied to that.

Also, many of the longer-term sequences (e.g. ones with Running Battle) can have big payoffs at the end.

Once your stats are at a reasonable height, most grinding yields about an echo per action, but that's at straight bazaar prices where it doesn't matter if you're talking rostygold or glim or rats or whatever -

but if you go with a grind that yields an improvable currency (foxfire candle stubs, glim, jade fragments, souls, stolen correspondence, lamplighter beeswax, whispered secrets, prisoner's honey, silk scraps, proscribed material, primordial shrieks, greyfields 1882)

then grinding it high enough to bulk trade up through the chains to completion, and then selling finished products - Way more lucrative.

Once you become a Person of Some Interest then you can do "Unfinished business" storylets at the main quality based locations like: Spite, Ladybones, Veilgarden, Watchmaker.

The options that require 5 or 6 actions give random results but on average they give 1.5 Echoes.

It's also less time consuming if you just need 2 clicks for 5 or 6 actions rather than 12 clicks for 6x 1 action.

I've found that bulk converting upwards is actually action inefficient and unprofitable if you work out the rewards.

It's not "lucrative" at all.

Currently at Polythreme you can "Lurk in the eaves.

" The challenge level is quite high (broad 120 Shadowy), but: it has no menace on failure success gives 12 Romantic notions which make 1.2 Echoes at current Bazaar rate.

It seems also to be a good challenge for improving shadowy.

The devs don't like people talking about Fatelocked content, for good reason, but if you choose to become a Spirifer, you gain access to a storylet that will provide you with roughly 1.74 echoes per action /on

average/, if you use the Unfinished Business storylet in Spite to grind the requisite resource.

Sometimes you'll get less than that and sometimes you'll get more than that; Unifinished Business storylets are unpredictable.

Keep in mind that this post assumes you're at the stat cap.

The higher your stats are, the better your average will be.

If you haven't spent the Fate, or chose the other option, you can do the Affair of the Box Carousel; that's slightly less profitable at 1.6 Echoes Per Turn, but, y'know, it doesn't cost real money.

Gambling in the House of Chimes, in the Heart's Hazard room (need to be an Exceptional Friend and a Person of Some Importance), gives you about 1.5 echoes per action and an occasional epic success giving you 13 echoes and some suspicion.

The Writer's Desk storylet is accessible from persuasion 10 in Veilgarden pays off very well, although the action cost per "cycle" is relatively great.

Anyway, according to some math I did, always publish as competent, write rapidly from 54 persuasion onwards, and frienzedly from 189 on, and the payoff per action is: 0.24 - 0.37, for persuasion 10-17 0.37, for persuasion 17-53 0.37 - 0.44, for persuasion 54-67 0.44, for persuasion 67-188 0.45 - 0.55, for persuasion 189-249 0.55, for persuasion 249+ Of course, long before you get that far, much better sources of income will become available.

Question: What's the fastest way (fewest actions) to earn the most valuable commodities?

What's the fastest way to make Echoes (money) in Echo Bazaar?

You gain more valuable goods for completing more challenging stories. Try searching the ruins in the forgotten quarter in the early game.

You best bet would be to simply play more challenging stories or series of stories. However if you're looking for quick cash, you can search the ruins in the forgotten quarter.

This user suggests ssearching the ruins in the forgotten quarter.


You should try setting up an obsidian farm!

It requires at least one bucket, but will go faster the more buckets you have.

Consider the following picture:

Surround a 1x7 trough with some safe blocks.

It doesn't matter what it's made of, as long as the blocks won't burn away (so avoid wood, cloth, etc).

This is the object outlined in green below.

Now you should have a 1x7 depression -- you want to put lava blocks into this.

Be careful when emptying your lavabuckets, because if you try to place a lava source block on top of another lava source block you'll empty your bucket, losing the lava.

I didn't have lava accessible, so for the picture I used cloth .

It is outlined in Red.

After you've got your seven lava blocks, simply place a water block on the rim of trough, indicated by the light blue outlined wood block in the picture.

The water will flow over each of the seven lava blocks, turning them into obsidian.

This is known colloquially as "obsidian farming".

There are a bunch of strategies, but since any way to get obsidian requires lava, first and foremost you're going to have to be careful .

Always carry around a bucket of water with you.

Remember that you can place the water on the ground, wait for it to spread, and then collect the source block back up.

Use this to turn lava into obsidian before getting to near it.

You are much better off turning lava into obsidian and mining it in place than trying to move the lava somewhere else and changing it into obsidian there.

Remember that lava produces light, so while it may protect you from spawning mobs, when it changes to obsidian it won't.

Light

the area with torches before changing the lava to obsidian.

If you're feeling really brave, you can always make a portal to the nether and collect lava there to bring back with you, if you run out of lava in the real world.

Sometimes the lava is really hard to get to safely.

If you don't feel comfortable trying to maneuver your way around, it is perfectly fine to abandon that lava spring in favor of a more accessible one.

It is always easier to find lava in a cave system than try to mine it out of a pocket surrounded by stone.

Just make sure you mark lava somehow (signs work well) so that you don't accidentally dig there in the future and get yourself killed.

When a lava spring is multiple blocks deep, it can be hard to mine the obsidian because the block may fall into the lava directly below it.

Make sure you never mine directly below yourself, and don't go diving after the obsidian hoping to catch it before it falls into the lava.

These can be especially tricky to mine.

Change additional lava to obsidian as it is revealed to minimize risk.

Most importantly, just remember the main mantra: be careful.

I generally agree with StrixVaria except for one point.

Given how long it takes to mine a block of obsidian and the fact that you need diamonds first, it can be just as quick and easy to move the lava in a bucket where you want the obsidian to be and cast the obsidian there.

This way there is practically no threat of falling into the lava or "losing" obsidian to deep lava pools.

Of course if there is no lava near your project, mining the obsidian at the source might be a better option.

Guys you're all wrong.

Find a big pool of lava and turn it into obsidian.

Mine one and let it get destroyed, then dump water in the hole where it was.

Face in one direction and hold down your mouse button.

As you mine a block, it is nearly destroyed but the water flows in first, saving the block and making the lava beneath obsidian so you can walk on it.

Go 7 blocks then go back to the start and go in a different direction, always in the water flow.

It is definitely the easiest way

Bring two buckets of water.

Dig a one block deep 2x2 pit in the ground and place water in the top left and bottom right squares.

You can draw unlimited water from this pool, so fill both buckets again.

Keep them both on your bar for safety.

Pour water onto the rock next to the lava pool, turning the top layer into obsidian.

Take care not to be swept into the lava by the water.

Take the water back.

Dig a ditch around your new obsidian block, one block thick and one block deep.

Be careful as there may be a second layer of lava below the obsidian or behind an adjacent wall.

Stand in the ditch as close as possible to the obsidian block and mine it with your diamond pick.

Standing here guarantees that you'll pick up the obsidian block.

It won't fall into any lava below, and neither would you (as you would if you mined from above).

Continue this method

one layer at a time until you reach the bottom of the lava lake.

Remember to pour the water onto rock so that it flows onto the lava lake, rather than into the lava, as that will create only one obsidian block and expend your water.

Take extreme care.

If you open a lava flow by accident, cover it with cobblestone or pour water.

Leave your diamond pick in a chest when exploring lava lakes and only bring it with you when mining obsidian.

Always carry two buckets of water in your bar, two cooked pork in your bar, and at least two more cooked pork in your inventory.

Try to place 2x2 water pools a safe distance from where you mine.

Don't stand diagonally adjacent to lava, or you can catch fire.

Press F4 and mine the portal .

(in Alpha)

Mining nether portals.

Build a nether portal without the corners, go through it, and it will have the corners on the other side.

Mine them, go back through, and repeat.

Question: In single player Survival mode in Minecraft Alpha, what is the safest way to create an obsidian farm? I've come across naturally occurring in obsidian in Survival MP, but that was easy to mine because there's no damage, so I could safely hack away while I was on fire. I'm kind of paranoid about working with lava in single player though.  What will I need to do this? How can I do it without being reduced to a digital pile of ashes and tears?

What's the safest way to farm obsidian without burning to death?

Find a big pool of lava and turn it into obsidian.

There are a number of ways to do this, all of which require care. You can set up an obsidian farm or turn an entire pool of lava into obsidian.

Users suggest care in this operation, however an obsidian farm is the most upvoted reply, and a pool of lava turning into obsidian is also suggested.


Some good places are: Eastern Kingdoms (North): Loch Modan: The excavation site Wetlands: Any area that has Mosshide Gnolls Silverpine Forest: Fenris Island's undead gnolls (can't remember their name) Eastern Kingdoms (South): Redridge Mountains: Any area that has Blackrock Orcs.

(Alliance only)

Stormwind City:

The Stockade dungeon...

of course, all enemies in it are elites.

Kalimdor: Ashenvale Forest:

The Naga near Blackfathom Deeps...

and if you're high enough level, Blackfathom Deeps itself...

of course, all enemies in it are elites.

The Barrens: Any area that has Razormanes, particularly the ones outside RFK and RFD.

NOTE:

We're at most a month away from The Shattering (the part of Cataclysm that changes the world), so these locations may no longer be there or change their level spread/drop rates after it happens.

The easiest way to figure out where to farm an item is to have a look at the item's drop rates in Wowhead and find the mobs with the highest drop rate but also a large number of spawn points.

In this case, I had a look at the Wool Cloth page and found two good areas:

There's a cave in Stonetalon Mountains that may be good, with Windshear Stonecutter , Windshear Vermin and Windshear Overlord all having good drop rates but not many spawn points.

Durnholde Keep in Hillsbrad Foothills seems to be the best choice, with a good drop rate from Syndicate Watchman and Syndicate Rogue and 100s of them available to kill.

Recently I needed to get my tailoring skill up on my level 30 undead warrior.

Fenris Island worked out pretty well for getting wool cloth.

Also check thottbot.com .

It has maps with drop info and percentages from mobs that may be of use.

You can use ThottBot for lots of stuff like this.

This isn't a direct answer to your question, but the best place to farm wool cloth would be whatever place earns you the highest amount of gold per hour, which you can spend at the auction house to purchase wool cloth.

This ensures you are making the most of your time .

Here's an example to illustrate.

(Note that these numbers are entirely made up )

Say the current going rate of a stack of wool cloth on the auction house is 20g.

You can either: Spend 30 minutes killing humanoids in Shadowfang Keep for 1 stack of wool cloth (worth 20g), or Spend 30 minutes killing Lesser Pantaloon Demons in the Emerald Dream for half a stack of Primal Cheese (worth 50g, which can buy 2.5 stacks of wool cloth!)

The best place for farming wool is Dawning Woods Catacombs in Ravenhill, Duskwood.

There are 2 entrances to the crypts, both underground areas.

You want the one in the West, which is guarded by a giant skele.

Kill giant skele, descend to first level-

kill everything and loot.

Go to 2nd level, and only kill what is in the hallway.

Kill left room, kill right room, then go out, and do again.

If you kill the hovering boss, everything dies in the crypt leaving them unlootable!

If you have a level 80 (or even a 60+), the easiest way to farm wool is at Shadowfang Keep.

The real trick to making gold off of the wool is to know how much to put it up for at the AH.

Put too much up and you'll drive prices down due to the fact that the economy only demands so much of it over a certain period of time.

But I digress from your original question...

Before

The Shattering , I would have pointed you to the Deadmines.

Now post Cataclysm , I believe Shadowfang Keep is great place to farm for wool.

It's quick and easy.

Furthermore there is no competing with another players for the same resource when in an instant by yourself.

Notice, I didn't say best .

For the most part, considering a place the 'best' for [whatever], is a matter of opinion.

Good luck and happy hunting!

Question: In my server the price for Wool Cloth in the Auction House is very high, considering it's a low level item. What's the best place to farm it?

Where is the best place to farm for Wool Cloth?

Shadowfang Keep, Eastern Kingdoms, any area that has Mosshide Gnolls and Blackrock orcs.

There are a number of locations where this can be done, Shadowfang Keep chief among them, Loch Modan, Mosshide Gnolls and others. There is not really a specific answer to this, the best place would be the place with the best rates. Another option is to use external software like Wowhead to help you.

Users suggest locations where this can be done.

User vaguely says that the amount of gold per hour is what counts.

A user also suggests using external software that will tell you the rates.


That error generally means that your computer doesn't provide the 3D graphics support that Minecraft needs to run.

If you're pretty sure you have the necessary 3D graphics hardware, you may need to update your video card's drivers.

You might want to look at the OpenGL support for your graphics card.

This is different from DirectX support.

Maybe you'll find some useful information at http://www.intel.com/support/graphics/sb/cs-010479.htm

https://stackoverflow.com/questions/817216/is-directx-on-java-possible Unless Notch uses JNI, he's not using DirectX.

Considering that a lot of JNI code is not portable, and especially since DirectX doesn't exist on Linux and Mac without a lot of work, I'm fairly confident that your don't have to worry about it being your problem.

You should be looking more towards OpenGL (if Minecraft uses OpenGL) or your Java Runtime Environment.

Type java

-version into a command window to show the version info.

They are much more likely to be the culprit.

DirectX != OpenGL.

Support for one on your graphics card and your drivers does not mean support for the other.

Even if your GFX card supports it, doesn't mean your drivers do and Dell are particularly bad at drivers.

So if you are running the factory installed ones, or ones from the dell website, that will almost certainly be the issue.

Minecraft uses OpenGL, so dxdiag.exe is of no use here.

Your Graphics chip should support OpenGL, so head to the Intel Graphics Driver update page to check you are running the latest drivers for your card.

I have experienced OpenGL errors on a graphics card I knew supported it, and a driver update fixed the issue.

I had this problem when running Minecraft in the browser from Firefox.

I fixed it by switching to Internet Explorer (you can also download the executable).

The other common resolution is to make sure your graphics drivers and Java are up to date.

I have the exact same laptop and the exact same specs that you have now, and this is the only thing I use to play Minecraft.

Here are some tips:

Minecraft does NOT run on Direct3d/DirectX.

You must have at least OpenGL 2.1 or higher.

Have the latest version of Java.

(Probably Java 7 Update 67 or Java 8 Update 20 {Java 7 runs better and Java 8 is in beta.

JAVA 7 RECOMMENDED}, as of October 3, 2014.)

Use Windows Update and select all graphics card updates and install them.

Your RAM must be more than 1 GB.

(find it at Control Panel / System and Security / System.)

Tip No. 4 is the reason why i'm running Minecraft on my Dell Inspiron 1545 (which is almost impossible.).

it's on the graphics driver, not the laptop.

Question: So when I try to  play Minecraft  it keeps giving me this error:   I'm running Windows 7, 64-bit and I have the latest version of Java installed. My computer is a Dell Inspiron 1545 How can I fix this?  @Brant:  I'm pretty sure I have 3D support. I just ran  dxdiag.exe :

Why do I get an error when I try to play?

You may need to update your video card's drivers and make sure Java is up to date. Use Windows Update.

Make sure you have the latest graphics card drivers installed. Also make sure you have the latest version of Java and OpenGL installed.

Users suggest having the latest graphics drivers and versions of java or opengl installed.


Found a really great way: taunt them and then counter.

Most of the time you will get a 1-hit-kill.

I've found that keep pressing your attack and kick buttons alternating them every so often allows you to do combo moves.

I was able to do this for all five fights.

How I beat this challenge: equip your throwing stars (or dagger), and hold down the attack button for a few seconds.

Ezio will crouch.

Release the attack button and Ezio will whirl 5 knives at enemies.

If there are at least 5 enemies within reach, they should get hit and die and you'll get the completion message.

Done within 1 second!

Honestly, this part is extremely frustrating as your best bet for beating them in the alloted time is hoping that the game decides you are going to do a quick finisher combo instead of whacking all the health off an enemy one chunk at a time.

I found just mashing punch and countering only when necessary to work the best and was able to complete all the challenges pretty quickly.

Most of it is just about luck I found.

Wait for the Mercenary to come to you, then continue to hit the attack button.

I used this method, winning lots of money.

Hope this work

All guards are killed instantly with combo kills ("kill streaks") and counter kills.

To get this achievement, first find 5 enemies.

With the exception of Papal Guards, you may have to lure a group together.

You can initiate a fight by tackling someone.

After you have the guards, remember every kind of guard will be counter-killed with the Hidden Blade(s), including the Seekers.

After counter-killing one, you can use the killstreak to instantly kill the next guard, and the guard after that, until you reach 5 enemies killed.

I tried equipping my throwing knifes & holding down the punch button (square 4 ps3) but all holding down punch did was throw dust in their face which makes them stop & hold their head for a sec but after a couple times i noticed if i hit 1 right after throwing dust in their face Ezio will do a 1 hit

k/o do this 2 all of them & once u get to 4 try to take out the one on the far left first

he's the one that'll dodge ur attack everytime.

Hope this helps!

Question: In Brotherhood the fight missions for Mercenaries have a very short time limit on them. What do you need to do in order to win the fight in less the 10 seconds? I been trying and trying and can't seem to be able to do any significant damage within 10 seconds.

How do I beat the "Kill 5 guards within 10 seconds" mercenary challenge?

Keep pressing the attack and kick buttons. All guards are killed instantly with combo kills.

Your best bet would be combo moves and counters, together with taunting or kicking. Another way could be if you wait for the Mercenary to come to you, then continue to hit the attack button.

Combo moves seem to be the best way to do this.

Another user suggests hitting the attack button after waiting for the mercenary to attack you.


It is very hard to tell nowadays, where you can rack up kills on tight maps like NukeTown by using Hardline and getting a mass destruction weapon like the Gunship or the Chopper Gunner.

Speed hacks (he moves much faster than anyone ever can) and health cheats (he just does not die) are more obvious, so I am not going to mention them

Wall hacking is the most commonly used type of cheat where one can see through walls and track enemies from very far distances.

Some indications are: He has a ridiculously high kill-death-ratio.

Especially when deaths are less than five.

He plays with a sniper rifle the whole time, and can kill from the other end of the map before you see him.

He is prematurely firing before you actually show yourself around corners.

Shoots through walls/doors where you know

it's impossible to detect you there.

There are some caveats to the last one, though.

He might know you're there because:

There is a spy plane in the air and you don't have Ghost.

There is an SR71 in the air (Ghost Pro won't protect you here).

He has a motion sensor installed in your proximity

(Ghost Pro won't protect you here, either.

Only Hacker Pro makes you invisible to motion sensors).

He has previously thrown in a nade (flash/nade) and saw it "connected" someone

and he tried his chance by spraying in the possible places (it's obvious a lot of people camp the wooden rooms and the caravan wagon on the map Firing Range)

He has Ninja Pro and heard your footsteps from further away.

He is on a lucky day.

There is one test to almost exactly tell if he can see through walls: the step-ahead-step-back technique, in which you need to know the place the player in question is before hand.

As you are coming out of a closed space or round a corner, just run to the corner and before you really show yourself, back up a step.

If he fired before you appeared chances are high he was tracking you through the walls.

As you can see, finding out whether someone is cheating is not an easy task.

He might just be a good player, having a strong intuition or excellent knowledge of the map, and a good timing.

I would really not take this as a rule set to say yes or no, but as a checklist of questions you ask yourself before accusing someone.

For sake of completeness, check out Toastandjam18's interesting answer below about boosting.

Some clear indicators are: On kill cam he "jumps" from target to target always aiming to the exact same part of the body.

(The majority of the time being the head.)

He automatically shoots in predictive manner or immediately after aiming.

What must not be confused as cheating:

Randomly shooting at common camping places.

(Pros can also headshot)

Could you use the theater mode to replay the game from their perspective?

This may make cheating more apparent and would provide you with evidence.

The only caveat would be I'm not sure how accurately theater mode reproduces the game given players experiencing various degrees of lag from the server/host.

There is also boosting in which the player uses a switch between his modem and PC/xpox/PS that cuts the connection long enough for him to jump places on map but not disconnect from the lobby.

This is easily seen on kill cam or in game.

Note that some people have a bad connection like when i played in iraq

but you can check that in the menu, if he is full strength then red barred then full strength again, then has

a high score chances are he/

she is boosting

If you see someone aiming for a headshot through a wall, or surviving entire clips of ammunition or knifing, it's an indication of cheating.

Another common thing I've seen is FALs shot in an extremely fast and predictive manner.

This means they are cheating by having a special controller that sends the fire button in repetition.

This is usually seen very easily in kill cams where even when starting and stopping firing, it is still being shot at a constant rate(rather

than like most people who gradually speed up and slow down)

One I have noticed, though it may just be a bug in the game itself, is when you get them in your sights and your gun automatically "shifts" away from that player.

I thought I was going nuts, but one day I had put my controller down for a sec to grab the phone, and some geezer ran through my crosshairs and pushed it without me touching the controller.

This theory was proven fact when I followed him, tried to get a bead on him

and I couldn't.

I have played enough Black Ops to know.

These conditions indicate cheating: Your opponent's gun shoots in the opposite direction from where he is aiming When you are unable to shoot until they kill you When they have care packages at the beginning of the game before they even have kills When your bullets are moved to either side of the player

When you empty your gun on them right in front of you, and they wait until you are finished and shoot you dead with one shot.

I have also heard a few dumb players brag about their cheating while playing the game.

There are players who are very very good who do not cheat.

Question: I've played games with some friends and they claimed that so-and-so was cheating.  I honestly just thought that he was a really good player.  What are some indications that someone is actually cheating?

How do I determine if someone is cheating in Call of Duty: Black Ops?

It is hard to tell. Look for a ridiculously high kill ratio, playing with a sniper rifle the whole time and prematurely firing. Shooting through doors/walls is also a sign.

While it is quite hard to tell nowadays, there are some indications. First and foremost, they have an expremely high kill-death ratio, or they play with a sniper rifle all the time, shooting before they even see you. They can shoot through walls and doors and their aim is not smooth while the bullets go in different direction from the barrel. The extremely obvious one is also that they refuse to die.

User suggests it is very difficult to tell.

Most other users however are sure that there are clear indications.


No one can say what is the best gun for someone else.

It just takes practice with each gun and such.

But there is a way to try out guns without having to spend your precious COD points.

Just enter combat training.

Make the difficulty "recruit" and setup a game of team deathmatch and 9 enemies against just you.

This will give you tons of XP and COD points in combat training.

It took me about 2 hours to get to level 25 with this.

Once you unlock the gun and have the COD points, just buy it from combat training.

Use it and figure out if you like it, then go back to the real game and buy it if you wish.

I did this after prestiging once

and I regret it.

I would've got to first prestige much faster if I had known what guns would work for me and what wouldn't.

(same goes for perks and equipment and such)

You could play several rounds of the Sharpshooter Wager Match mode and make a note of any weapons you like.

If you play in low buy in rounds it shouldn't cost you very much at all and if you do well you may come out better off.

You could always just run around playing with the default guns for a few days, then go into your stats and see what guns kill you the most.

Chances are people are a little more efficient with those guns, or they're just popular, but they're probably popular for a reason.

To find what guns suit you, go onto split-screen.

From there all weapons, camos - anything unlockable - is usable.

These, however, don't carry over to the multiplayer.

You won't really be able to test them out properly unless you have another person with you, but you'll be able to check out if you want to spend money on the camos and stuff, as well as get a feel for the weapon (e.g recoil).

Another great way to 'try out' guns is to set a class that has scavenger, what ever tier 2 and 3 perks you like, and pick up guns from people you kill.

This way you can try out the guns in real combat, though it might take you a bit longer to do so.

go to system link match.

create game.

and all the options are there

Question: I am just starting out and it's expensive to buy guns just to find out that I dislike them. Where can I test weapons in  Call of Duty: Black Ops ?

Is it possible to "try out" guns?

You can enter combat training or play rounds of Sharpshooter Wager Match and make a note of weapons you like.

Combat training mode is your best bet. You can of course just play a few normal rounds of the game and see what you like or take notes. Another option is split screen mode.

Users suggest playing rounds of the normal game and taking notes.


I beat him on first blood line by going the way with most enemies (fighting as many as I could), and spending any skill points I got into attack, and then buying the best sword I could before the fight (for me it was the firebrand).

On the first blood line, the god king is at a reasonable speed and parrying his attacks is very straightforward, and not subject to any slow controls like the dodge buttons.

If you fail once, you can use your shield and dodge for the rest of the combo.

Once you stop his attack, you should perform a 3 hit combo (left right left) if you dodged, a 4 (left left right right) or 5 hit combo (up down left right up) if you parried.

Use your magic in case of trouble or to finish him off (it will take 100 points out of him).

Thanks to parrying you will get multiple stab opportunities that will be draining him pretty quickly too.

Once thing to remember about parrying: it is OK to parry the very last swipe of a GK combo, you'll still have a longer time to hit back at him, and sometimes get the stab opportunities.

Also, there are only two orientations for parrying: horizontal and vertical, and the direction (left to right or right to left for example) doesn't matter!

So there are only two choices, which makes it much easier once you have a feel for that.

If you use parrying the fight is very short (maybe 2 or three minutes) and quite easy (easier than some of the critters on the way to the GK, because they're sooooo slow that parrying them requires much better timing than the GK...).

In the end you might take a hit or two, but shouldn't feel the need to heal yourself.

Fire swords are good only if the person doesn't have a shield that blocks fire objects.

It's possible, yes.

Just extremely difficult.

You just have to avoid his attacks, but seeing as the controls are slow to respond at times, it makes it much harder.

At first I played up to about 20 bloodlines and every time the god king defeated me.

However IF you choose to join him instead of picking up your sword, all he says is "Together we will vanquish the old corrupt more powerful beings than the deathless.."

and then you can choose to fight him again..

so joining him is pointless.

You know how your enemies become stronger, faster, and harder to defeat?Well the god king is always the same: just hard to kill.

So yes I believe it's possible to defeat him on the first bloodline.

Say you bought the Infinity Blade, The Patriot (shield), Oruku (helmet), Helio Amrmor,(all the best supplies but ones to REALLY save up for) and the Ring of Ice and Fire, and you were on the first bloodline, you can defeat him by merely avoiding his attacks.

However it seems the makers of the game don't let you use your shield sometimes while you fight him, or make the controls slower so you get damaged.

No, you can't beat him in the first bloodline... because that's the intro.

:D

On the second one, yes, you can do it by restarting from a higher bloodline after leveling up.

I actually beat him at level 15, using the heal and shield ring (forgot what that was).

Level up to 15 and buy the best equipment possible (excluding armor), then choose to "Restart from Bloodline 1".

You will still be facing the Level 50 God King, and so you can then beat him in Bloodline 1.

It's possible if you lose as a result of an enemy(except God) and restart the bloodline.

Do this again and again until you have a powerful item, and then you will beat him.

(This may take a very long time)

I beat him on the first blood line.

It just took me about 5 tries.

I closed the game every time he killed me.

the key is to only dodge his blows, use the special when you screw up so he doesn't get a combo on you, and use the heal power a lot.

It's actually not that hard to beat him on the first bloodline.

But that's probably because while I was playing, I got some weird glitch and suddenly had $10000000.

I bought all the best equipment, mastered it all, (that got me to about level 30) and beat the God King

and he only took about 200 health from me.

So, it's actually not impossible to beat him on the first bloodline, you just have to be really good, or really lucky and get a glitch :D

Just start early on and keep playing, and then a few bloodlines later say do the bloodline one

and he will be easy.

I did not do this every time, but I beat him seven times.

You could also go down the drain or below the elevator to the God King and have the Infinity Blade, put it in the stone and amazing people are behind the doors and beating them opens the door to the creator of god kings.

You could spend a crap ton of real world money to buy in game gold, get the best stuff, and be really good at it, and maybe then.

I almost beat him on my fifth bloodline, but couldn't heal in between attacks fast enough.

Got him easily on my sixth, its not really a very hard game.

Yes, you can beat the godking in the first bloodline.

When infinity blade was released, the godking seemed unbeatable god.

After months went through, the godking now is a piece of cake - the fat pig - the "easy money" resource that brings lots of money after you kill it.

Question: I've played through two bloodlines so far in Infinity Blade. Both times I made it to the boss, and both times he beat me. I imagine it's possible to beat him after leveling up over the course of many tries, but is it possible to do it on the first bloodline?

Is it possible to beat Infinity Blade on the first Bloodline?

You should dodge blows and use the heal power a lot. Buy the best sword you can before the fight.

It is possible to beat him at the first possible occasion, i.e. after the intro. You can try taking as many enemies on at the same time, then spend skill points on attack and getting the best sword out there. Another key thing to do is to dodge his blows and restart the bloodline if you lose. Of course you can always invest money in the game to get better gear too.

Users agree that it is possible and suggest strategies to beat him

One user however says that technically you cannot since there is the intro.


So here was my thoughts when I approached this problem:

How do I give myself the biggest advantage when rushing

How do I hurt my opponent the most by rushing In respect to the first thought, shorter maps are definitely better (you were on the right track there), so I chose steps of war.

With respect to the second thought I decided to pick a Terran opponent.

Marines (the starting Terran unit) benefit a lot more from larger groups than their Zealot and Zergling equivalents so in early game, when we won't have large groups, it makes sense to go for a Terran opponent.

Next I tried to pick a very fast strategy: 8 Pool.

I decided on the 8 Pool because I happened to know that you can sustain Zergling production (with a Queen) off of 8 Drones

(I don't remember the Zealot equivalent

I think its also 8 though).

I build 6 initial Zerglings to put some initial pressure (and stop him from building up Marines)

and then I go for my Queen/2nd Ovi.

The goal of these first 6 Zerglings needs to be something simple (because I still need to Macro) and needs to stop the Terran from mounting a defense.

So I'm going to specifically kill the Marines.

I'm also a pretty good player

so I'll even harass the SCVs; however, this is more complicated.

I can't let any of my Zerglings die, because I need to build up critical mass

and he has enough SCVs to wipe them out,

so what I do is a little Brinkmanship , try to lure a few away and kill them off.

You'll notice my reinforcements are starting to come in, and eventually spawn larva will kick in.

As more Zerglings come in, I get progressively more aggressive till, finally, I'm chasing down the few remaining SCVs.

After some Magical threshold, the computer GGs.

As Terran against Protoss, you can do a fast proxy barracks bunker rush on a small map like Steps Of War.

To begin the game, mine with your SCVs and build one SCV from you command center.

Set the rally point of your command center to your opponents base so that the new SCV immediately starts going there.

Don't build any more SCVs than this one.

As soon as you have 100 minerals start building a supply depot and shift-click the building SCV so that he also moves to the opponents base as soon as his supply depot is finished.

Around the time you have 150 minerals the first SCV you sent across the map should reach the opponents base.

Start building barracks there.

Against medium AI you don't even have to hide the barracks, he won't attack with his workers.

Once the second SCV reaches his base, build a second barracks with it.

As soon as the first barracks is finished, that SCV should start building a bunker.

Put it somewhere close to the mineral line, don't be shy about it: Then put the rally point of your barracks on that bunker and start producing marines as soon as possible.

If your bunker gets attacked repair it with you two SCVs and basically just keep producing marines until the computer gives up:

The only way you will be able to do this is with a Photon Cannon/Bunker-Reaper/Spine Crawler rush.

The easiest way for me was to use a Spine Crawler rush against a Zerg AI opponent.

Choose a small 2 player map like Jungle Basin or Steppes of War.

Do not choose one of the Novice maps as they block your entrance with destructible rocks.

At the start of the game, begin harvesting minerals but do not build any drones.

Wait until you have 200 minerals and then morph a Spawning Pool (also known as a 6 pool, because you have 6 drones when you being morphing the Spawning Pool).

While the Spawning Pool is morphing, continue to make drones until you get to 10.

Once the Spawning Pool is complete, send 2 drones to the enemy base.

By the time they get there, you should have 200 minerals saved up.

Move them near the hatchery and morph both of them into Spine Crawlers.

Get them close enough that they can hit the enemy drones and the Spawning Pool as well.

While the Spine Crawlers are morphing in, build 4 Zerglings and set your Hatchery rally point next to your Spine Crawlers.

This will be enough of a force for the AI to call "gg" (good game) in less than 5 minutes.

The easy way to defeat the medium AI Medium in under 5 minutes or less (average of 3 minutes): choose Protoss race when the game starts, select 1 probe to go to your opponent's base build 2 more additional probes build a Pylon on their base, near their collector zone (let the AI to be Terran or Protoss) build a Forge, then spam the Cannon!

Do this as quickly as possible until the AI says gg.

You can also do this plan against the hard AI, but against the very hard AI, you will need to build outside their sight, or their probe will attack your building.

Here's a replay on how to do it for Insane A.I.

Of course this works for any A.I., but getting it for Insane gets you all the rest. http://www.sc2replayed.com/replays/117081-1v1-protoss-xelnaga-caverns

Question: I would like to get 'beat medium AI in 5 minutes' achievement. Usually I am playing as terran.  Is there special SMALL (TINY) map for that? What is strategy for that? Should I build 1st barrack on opponents base? Should I play some special race against another special?  Any thoughts are welcome.  Thanks.

How do I beat medium AI in 5 minutes?

Do a fast proxy barracks bunker rush or a Photon Cannon/Bunker-Reaper/Spine Crawler rush.

There are a variety of strategies you can follow, first among them being carrying out a fast proxy barracks bunker rush, or a rush with photon cannon, reaper or crawler. Another effective way is to choose protoss race when the game starts, select a probe to go to the opponent's base and finally spam the cannon.


As of 2016, it is possible to trade from the Virtual Console editions of Pokémon Red, Blue, Green and Yellow to the new Pokémon Sun/Moon (Gen 7) via Pokémon Bank.

Unfortunately while Gen 6 (X/Y/

OR/AS) is compatible with Pokémon Bank, it is not possible to receive Gen 1 Pokémon in those games.

However, if we're talking about the original Gameboy cartridges, it can't be done.

The limits on trading are as follows: Generation 1 (Red/Blue/Green/Yellow) ↑↓

Both directions Generation 2 (Gold/Silver/Crystal)

X Trade

impossible Generation 3 (Ruby/Sapphire/Emerald/FireRed/LeafGreen)

↓ One-way only, allows held items Generation 4 (Diamond/Pearl/Platinum/HeartGold/SoulSilver) ↓

One-way only, no items Generation 5 (

Black/White/Black 2

/White 2)

One-way only, no items Generation 6 (X/Y/Omega Ruby/Alpha Sapphire) ↓?

(Unreleased, backwards trading yet to be confirmed, Pokémon Bank currently forbids items) Generation 7 (Sun/Moon)

There are three main reasons you can't trade between Gen I/II and Gen III: The Pokémon data format changed significantly in Gen III, so the two were incompatible.

The GBA link cable uses a different voltage to the Gameboy link cable.

Even though a GBA can play old Gameboy games, it uses different circuitry than when playing GBA games, so the games' link cable functionalities are fundamentally incompatible.

Even if these weren't an issue, Nintendo never released a product that allowed trade from one to the next.

You cannot trade from the 1st Generation or 2nd Generation into the 3rd Generation and onwards.

While it may not be possible to transfer from Gens I and II to III, seeing as Gen III has FireRed and LeafGreen, it would be advisable to just play through that and trade upwards (to gens IV and V) from there..

Yes, you can trade from Generation 1 and 2 cartridges (not just Virtual Console) to more recent generations

However, it is not something that is officially supported by Nintendo.

The website Atop the Fourth Wall posted a how-to video showing that it was absolutely possible to go from Generation 1 and 2 cartridge all the way to Generation 6, the latest as of the video's creation.

Since it ends with the Pokémon Bank, you can presumably go to any generation after that.

A tutorial on trading up Pokémon off of Generation 1 and 2 cartridges and into the modern generations!

Yes, it IS possible.

It does involve using hardware to extract your save file from the cartridge and manipulating it using a save game editor.

Still, the end result is having your original team from a Generation 1 or 2 cartridge transferrable all the way to the Pokébank.

This is technically possible now that the Gen 1 Vurtual Console games support migration to Sun and Moon.

It's not easy and is only doable with pricey hardware.

The steps are as follows: Dump your save game from your original Pokemon Red, Blue or Yellow cartridge to your PC using either a Retron 5, Retro Freak, or some other Game Boy cartridge reader.

You can build one with an Arduino if you're good at soldering and don't mind destroying a Game Boy for the cartridge slot.

Depending on the hardware you choose this step will be expensive or time consuming.

Hack your 3DS so that it can run homebrew.

I won't go into the steps for this because it's against Nintendo's terms of service but on the latest firmware it requires you to buy a game that has an exploitable defect.

This will cost you due to the popularity and rarity of those games.

Purchase and download the Virtual Console version of the same Pokemon game that you copied the save from and start a new game.

Use homebrew software such as SaveDataFiler to replace the Virtual Console game's save file with the one you dumped earlier from your original cartridge.

You now have a working copy of your original game's save file on your 3DS.

Use Pokemon Bank to migrate your original team to Pokemon Sun and Moon.

Question: I know that you can trade Pokemon between games of the same generation (Gold/Silver, Ruby/Sapphire) and even trade between 1st gen and 2nd gen. However, I haven't been able to find a way to trade Pokemon so that I can play with my 1st generation Pokemon in HeartGold, for instance. If it is possible, how many steps would it take and what equipment would I need?

Is it possible to trade Pokemon from the 1st generation games to the most recent ones?

You can trade from Generation 1 and 2 cartridges.  You can also trade from Virtual console editions of Pokémon Red, Blue, Green and Yellow.

Opinions are split regarding this issue, some say it is possible and some say it is not. At any rate, it seems that it could technically be possible however it is difficult to do.

Other users however believe it cannot be done or is difficult to do.


Edit: As of Minecraft 1.5 or so, Slime spawning has changed yet again.

Right now, Slimes will only spawn in certain chunks of your map, depending on the map's seed.

There are tools online such as this one that let you input your seed, and it will output the chunks of your map that will spawn Slimes.

Slimes spawn within 16 blocks of bedrock, in any light conditions.

I think they were removed in the 1.2 Beta, but it is confirmed that they have returned in 1.2_01.

Slimes spawned fairly frequently back in Alpha, but I believe Notch reduced the spawn rates by quite a bit since then.

The 1.3 update increased the slime's spawn rate yet again.

The fact is that slimes now spawns naturally at night (technically light level < 8) in swamp biomes ("Swampland" in debug screen) with y-coordinates ranging from 51 to 69.

This feature is added in 12w40a development snapshot or 1.4.2 (Pretty Scary Update) release, making them much easier to be found.

Slimes also spawn below y-coordinates of 40 in specific chunks .

Minecraft Wiki has a formula on the slime spawning mechanism and there are numerous tools to find slime-spawning chunks, however since it is subjected to change, it may be far easier and better to find slimes by simply look for swamp biomes on the ground.

As of the 1.3_01 update, slimes have a higher spawn rate, spawn in ANY light conditions, and on ANY mode.

If you put it on peaceful, though, only small slimes will spawn.

Slimes spawn in the bottom 16 blocks of the map, but only in 10% of chunks.

Here is an online tool to determine which chunks are capable of spawning slimes: http://mcslimes.appspot.com/

If you hear a distinct, repeatedly clicking sound, you're very close.

You can find slimes near bedrock, but only in 10% of chunks.

If you want to find slimes more easily than digging around forever, find a swamp biome--about y level 64 they spawn naturally at night.

Go get a bunch of TNT and blow a hole to bedrock.

Then, make the hole wider.

Go do something else for a Minecraft day or two, and come back to the cavern.

You'll find many slimes there.

dig a hole down to layer 4 and make a 4 high by 1 long room.

Then dig three blocks straight ahead.

Once you have done that then dig 50 blocks on either side, once you have done that dig out about 20-30 blocks deep.

By the end of all this you should have 4 block high room that is 100 blocks wide and 20-30 blocks long.

Then place tons of torches to totally flood the area in light to stop other mobs spawning.

Finally after all this work all you have to do now is return to the surface and wait.

Give it a couple of minecraft days and go back down

and you should see a fair few slimes.

Kill and enjoy all the slime balls you have collected

Question: In early alpha I remember Minecraft videos showing slimes deep underground. I think you would attack them then they split into several smaller slimes. But I've never found a slime for myself. In what conditions can you find slimes? Are they definitely still in Minecraft?

How do I find slimes in Minecraft?

Slimes only spawn naturally at night and in certain chunks of your map, within 16 blocks of bedrock.

While they do spawn in swamps and at night, depending on the map seed, they mainly spawn close to bedrock.

These users suggest they spawn only in certain chunks.

Users suggest they spawn close to bedrock.


Prior to version 1.6, all ground passive mobs (not squid) will spawn at light level 9 or above on grass blocks.

From version 1.6 onwards they will spawn on grass at any light level.

Squid will spawn at any light level under water.

Groups:

Pigs spawn in groups of 3-4 Sheep spawn in groups of 2-8 Cows spawn in groups of 4-12 Chickens spawn in groups of 1-3 (and a 1/8th chance from a thrown egg)

The Minecraft Wiki shows that there are many variables that affect animal spawnings as of version 1.3.2.

One in ten newly generated chunks will contain mobs (includes any animal, monster, or utility).

They can show up in as many as four 'packs' of the same mob.

They will always spawn on the highest point (the blocks that you see if you were flying).

Therefore, if the world generator had to choose between spawning an animal on a ledge or inside a cave, it would choose the ledge.

The block that the animal spawns on must be opaque (not glass, water, lava, etc).

Pigs spawn in groups of either three or four.

Sheep spawn in groups of two to eight.

Cows spawn in groups of four, and can spawn up to twelve.

Chickens spawn in groups of as much as three.

When chicken eggs are thrown, there is a 1/8 chance of a baby chicken spawning.

There is also a 1/32 chance of four spawning instead of one.

Before version 1.6, they only spawned when the light level was over nine, now they spawn regardless of whatever light level.

The block two blocks above the opaque block must be non-opaque (tree leaf, water, lava, glass).

Animals (excluding squid) do not spawn in ocean biomes.

No animals normally spawn in desert biomes.

The spawning of animals is dependent on the world seed .

This means that if I make a world with default settings and the seed 'minecraft' and you do that same, the cows and pigs will spawn in the exact same places.

Very rarely, new animals can spawn in already generated chunks, like monsters.

When this happens, as well as when mobs spawn from a mob spawner, the following rules apply: The light level must be nine or more.

The opaque must be a grass block (not a dirt block).

Unlike monsters, animals do not spontaneously despawn, except for wild ocelots and wolves (which can despawn only when they are hostile).

They do not despawn even if the player is far from them.

Note that squids have different spawning criteria then other mobs.

They can spawn at any light level underwater.

They will also spawn in player made pools and sometimes they will spawn in underground water deposits.

It is technically possible for them to spawn in one block of water, but that is not very likely.

In Addition: Animals, and Monster-Mobs too, ONLY Spawn a few 100 blocks around human Players.

Animals only Spawn on dirt blocks and cobble stone

The wiki has a good overview, but the key points are as follows: Passive mobs don't despawn when they are far from the player, except for angered wolves and ocelots (which by definition are not passive).

Passive mobs are spawned on chunks that have just been generated.

They spawn above the highest opaque block that has at least 2 transparent blocks above it.

Passive mobs also have the chance to spawn on existing chunks, but at a much reduced rate compared to hostile mobs.

Passive mobs need a light level of at least 9 and a grass block to spawn in this manner.

Animals other than squids will not spawn in ocean and desert.

Obviously, squids only spawn in water, which generally means ocean.

I learned that squid can spawn only in water, but it will take about 5-10 days (in the game).

Squid can spawn in even 1 block of water.

Animal spawning is always slowly changing.

Clarify some points: Animals will not spawn in the spawn chunk (where you spawned)

Animals will not spawn within 16 blocks of a player - Monsters will not spawn within 22 blocks of a player, but once they move closer than 22 blocks to the player they cannot despawn.

Nothing will spawn further than 128 blocks from the player.

Despawning varies depending on the mob.

Monsters despawn instantly if they spawn more than 82 blocks from the player.

This is all SPHERICAL - meaning in the caves below you, platforms above you,and in any direction.

As of 1.13 squid only spawn in river & ocean bioms between levels 62 and 46.

(however, I was unable to build a working squid farm in a mushroom island biom in 1.12.2)

Before 1.13 they can spawn in any water, 1 block or larger, between levels 46 and 64.

There is a mob cap, a maximum limit that can be in range of the player.

Once that cap is reached more mobs will not spawn, friendly, neutral or hostile.

Each has it's own cap not affected by the other.

HOWEVER, placing animals in pens or naming them takes them out of the cap count, and so does killing them, obviously.

You can breed as many food mobs as you want (see Mumbo's chicken farm in season 4 of Hermitcraft) and they will never despawn if penned, named, or otherwise enclosed.

Hostile mobs can only spawn in light of 7 or less.

Once spawned, all hostile mobs can survive in any artificial light of any level (torches, lanterns, etc..)

Fun Fact: Hostile mobs can spawn any time day or night on blocks placed at level 256 because technically there is no light above 256 to light the top surface.

So in short the OP was correct that spawning was centered around a player.

Verification of this information can be done in the official wiki or watching Let's Play videos for Skyblock Challenge.

Question: In what way do animals in Minecraft spawn? It looks to me that they spawn more during the night (but where there are torches) and more kind of around you / around some other human player. Am I right, or does it work some other way?  Thank you.

How does animal spawning work?

All ground passive mobs with spawn on grass at any light level. Squid can spawn in water, in 5-10 days.

While in the past passive mobs spawned at light level 9 and above, now the spawn on grass whatever the light level. Squids spawn in water and all animals spawn within a few 100 blocks around the player.

Users list different criteria for mob spawning.


Not very cheap, but it's a good tactic:

combine some pressure plates together with dispensers filled with arrows or snowballs.

That way, whenever mobs get near the hole, the dispenser will fire at the mob, hopefully pushing it into the hole.

They still seem to like to swim , so you could make some Water Traps - or any running water, maybe combined with a waterfall, into your pit.

If you want to lure animals, you need to use their breeding mechanics.

If you want to lure sheep, cows, and mooshrooms, use wheat.

If you want to lure pigs, use carrots.

If you want to lure chickens, use wheat seeds.

However, luring wolves and ocelots, first you gotta tame them.

Taming wolves is easy, all you have to do you use some skeleton bones.

Taming ocelots is a bit harder, because the ocelot will run away if you move your head or body a lot, it will run away, setting it to F8 mode will help a little bit.

Then to lure wolves and ocelots, just simply walk once you've tamed them and they will follow you around and stuff like that.

NPC Villagers Villagers do not have a food item; they will breed of their own accord (and in their own time) depending on the available houses, or at least "registered doors".

The only possible way to lure villagers is to get a few zombies to chase them into holes, while doing this, you may end up getting a few zombies in the trap too.

Snowballs will make mobs act as if they have been hurt but don't cause any damage (they still flash red) Not really luring more herding

Place three blocks on top of each other, then break the two blocks underneath the top one.

Place a wooden pressure plate underneath the floating block and place 4 wooden doors around the pressure plate, (each facing at a 90degree angle difference).

When a mob triggers the pressure plate, all doors will close and you then proceed to kill it through the windows.

If you are holding wheat in your hand any animal will follow you, so you could just walk into your hole and they will follow and you can use a ladder to get out.

Question: It seems to me like the last few updates made animals/mobs smarter: they won't fall that easily into holes 2+ blocks deep. Maybe I'm mistaken, maybe not...  Anyway, did anyone try to combine normal blocks and stone slabs to create an angle which would produce more "jumps" into hole traps? Is there a proven combination of blocks that gives good results?  Thank you.

What is a good way to lure animals / mobs into big holes/traps?

Try making water traps, combining pressure plates together with dispensers filled with arrows, or put some wheat in your hand so the animals follow.

You can combine pressure plates with dispensers filled with arrows or snowballs. You could also make water traps if they seem like they like to swim. Another solution could be to place three blocks on top of each other and break two blocks under the top one. A handy solution to lure mops is to hold food in your hand.

Users suggest different tactics with which to lure mobs.


Go into your minecraft folder and open up options.txt .

Find the line that reads pauseOnLostFocus:true and change true to false .

Now Minecraft won't pause to the menu screen when you tab away.

You can find your minecraft folder in a couple ways: Using the file system:

Navigate to... %

appdata%\.minecraft\ (on Windows)

~/Library

/Application Support/minecraft/ (on Mac OS X)

~/.minecraft/ (on Linux) Using Minecraft's menus: Start Minecraft and click Options , Resource Packs , and then Open resource packs folder .

In the file system window that opens, go up one folder and you'll be in your minecraft folder.

You can press F3 + P to let the game not auto-pausing.

Press F3 + P again to re-enable it.

For single player, it seems that you've already figured out that bringing up the inventory screen prevents the game from auto-pausing when it loses focus.

I don't believe there is any other way to prevent the auto pausing.

You may, however, consider hosting a SMP server and being the only person connected to it.

In SMP, the game will not pause when you are alt-tabbed out.

You can install mods on a SMP server that allow you to create user whitelists to define who you want to connect to your server.

If you add only yourself to that list, you don't need to worry about anyone else connecting while you are playing.

Since the update that merged the single- and multi-player code bases, you can press T to start typing in chat, which will let you tab out without pausing or hiding the game .

This answer is no longer relevant to current Minecraft versions, because F1 no longer hides menus; also, F1 is now a toggle and the tricks for holding it down are irrelevant.

Since you mention that your concern is that you can't see (as opposed to having the menu up at all), I have a fix for that:

with the menu up, use F1 to hide it.

Pressing F1 removes all HUD elements and leaves only the game view.

However, you have to hold down F1 .

There are several tricks for this to fool the game into thinking you have F1 down: Press F1 and switch out of Minecraft while holding it down.

(Tested on Mac) Before releasing F1 , press the Alt (Windows (and Linux?)) or ⌘ Command (Mac) keys.

Mac-specific: If you have a system where you have to press fn - F1 , just release F1 before fn .

Whilst all the other solutions look perfectly fine, I thought I'd add the method I use, when I want to not have the game pause, I hit esc, and "Open up to LAN".

The game doesn;t pause then on focus loss.

here's how I did it, I was mining, in a map called Minevolution, I was in full screen mode and then, while holding down left click, I pressed F11 at the same time I let go of the left click button, and it continued to mine, then I just did the whole Alt+Tab thing to get out of it

and it worked

If you just open a LAN connection the game no longer can be paused, even if you're in the game menu.

A LAN connection only allows people to jump in if they are on the same internet connection, so it is pretty secure.

Question: Is there a way to alt-tab out of Minecraft (i.e. make Minecraft lose focus) without the game auto-pausing and without having to bring a menu (e.g. inventory) up first?

Can I alt-tab out of Minecraft without the game auto-pausing?

Try F3+P to remove auto-pause. You can also open a LAN connection.

There are multiple ways you can do this, chief among them being editing the options.txt in the minecraft folder. There is also a key combination that works (F3 +P), or keeping the chat box open. Opening a LAN connection also works.

Users say that opening the minecraft folder and changing an option in a text file works.

Keeping the chat opened when tabbing out also works.

Opening a LAN connection also allows this.