How do you make a savory souffle that does not shrink after it's removed from the oven?

1. Savory souffles are based on a bechamel sauce, while dessert souffles are based on pastry cream. To make 12 savory souffles, begin with the bechamel sauce. Melt 5 tablespoons butter on medium-high heat in a saute pan. Add 5 tablespoons flour. Stir and cook this roux for several minutes. Beat in 3 cups of hot milk. Bring to a boil while stirring. Turn burner to low and stir until very thick and smooth. Remove from heat and stir in 1 teaspoon white pepper and a pinch each of cayenne and nutmeg. Combine with another seasoning, such as 2 ounces (about 1 tablespoon) truffles, and 8 ounces diced cooked lobster. Separate 12 eggs by cracking open the egg, holding your well-washed hand over a bowl and pouring the egg onto your hand. Let the egg white drip through your fingers, and place the yolks in a separate bowl. Combine bechamel with 12 egg yolks, stirring until blended. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2. Beat the whites from 12 eggs in a clean bowl until soft, white peaks form. Use an electric mixer or sturdy hand whisk. Remove any foreign particles, including small eggshells, in the whites. (Oils and particles will prevent the whites from forming peaks.) The peaks for souffles should be slightly less stiff than for meringue.

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3. Fold 1/3 of egg-white mixture into the bechamel sauce. Blend completely. Add the remaining egg whites in two batches, blending completely after each addition.

4. Melt butter on low heat in a medium saucepan and brush inside souffle dishes.

5. Dust with shredded Parmesan cheese.

6. Fill the dishes with the sauce.

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7. Use your thumb to clean off the inside edges of the dishes, which allows each souffle to rise evenly.

8. Partly fill a shallow baking pan with water and place souffle dishes in the pan; make sure the water line reaches at least the midpoint of the souffle dishes. (This water bath will help the souffles rise evenly.) Place in the oven and bake for 40 minutes. Do not open the oven door to check on the progress. After 40 minutes, check for doneness by very gently shaking the dishes. The souffles are done if the centers are firm and do not jiggle. If necessary, bake an additional 5 to 10 minutes. Remove immediately from the oven when done.

9. Top with a few pieces of sauteed lobster for additional flavor. Serve instantly.

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