For Elvis Presley fans, Memphis means one thing — Graceland. I got all shook up at Elvis Presley’s Memphis, a $45 million entertainment and exhibit complex that opened last year across from the King of Rock ‘n’ roll’s celebrated mansion and final resting place — part of a major Graceland expansion.

The cornerstone of the complex is the Elvis the Entertainer Career Museum, a sprawling facility that celebrates Elvis’ music, movies and tours. Several video screens show live concert footage and films, including “Jailhouse Rock,” where a young, sexy Elvis swivels those swoon-inducing hips.

More: Elvis Presley's long history with Studio B

The charismatic singer’s over-the-top style is almost as legendary as his music, and glitzy jumpsuits sparkle like Christmas lights throughout the exhibit.

Elvis has left the building for good, but his legacy rocks on.

This pre-cruise tour is offered to passengers sailing on the American Duchess, the American Queen Steamboat Company’s third and newest riverboat.  The nine-day Mississippi River cruise sails from Memphis to New Orleans, stopping at many history-rich Southern towns in Louisiana and Mississippi along the way.

At ports-of-call, passengers have the choice of an organized shore excursion for an additional charge or exploring on their own by using the cruise line’s complimentary hop-on-hop-off buses.

Natchez, Miss.

I was completely baffled as a stood on the perfectly-manicured, azalea-dotted lawn of The Towers, a majestic antebellum mansion in the port town of Natchez.  This marvel of Italianate architecture embellished with graceful triple archways, white columns and elaborate cast-iron filigree work perfectly captures the spirit of the Old South, but something was clearly amiss.  I shielded my eyes from the sun and scanned the roofline once more. Somebody had a wry sense of humor.

The Towers was towerless.

Homeowners James and Ginger Hyland greeted us in an expansive foyer illuminated by a chandelier so exquisite, it was practically a work of art.  Thankfully, they were wearing sensible, 21st-century attire. No costumed guides outfitted in kitschy hoopskirts here.

James disappeared into the kitchen to check on our lunch (fried chicken and grits), while Ginger proudly showed us around.  An avid antiques collector from California, she always dreamed of renovating an old Southern home and filling it with her treasures, and that’s exactly what she did when she moved to Natchez 12 years ago.

She said she started collecting because, “I like the way I feel around old things.”

This is not a house museum, but it certainly feels like one. Every table, chair and knick-knack has a story.

Especially intriguing was a chatelaine, a fashionable and practical device loved by Victorian women.  It’s basically a set of short chains that attached to the waist of a dress and was used for carrying keys and other useful items.

An impressive collection of colored-glass inkwells glowed on a table like lustrous gems, and I couldn’t resist lingering over a display of antique handbags adorned with beads, fringe and embroidery. Apparently, there was a time when women didn’t have to carry a bag emblazoned with an ostentatious designer logo to be considered well-heeled.

At last, the mystery of the missing towers was solved. There was once a pair of tower-shaped rooms on either end of the third story, but one was lost in a fire in 1927, and the other was removed to maintain the symmetry of the house.

Soon, The Towers will live up to its name once more, as plans are in the works to replace the structures. It took almost a century, but everybody knows things move a little slower in the South.

Baton Rouge, La.

The moods of the Mississippi are unpredictable, and flooding and high river levels forced the American Duchess to take an unexpected detour to Baton Rouge, Louisiana’s capitol. 

The hop-on-hop-off buses stopped at St. Joseph’s Cathedral, Louisiana’s Old State Capitol, the Old Governor’s Mansion and at many other attractions, but I spent most of my time at the Capitol Park Museum, a branch of the Louisiana State Museum.

Those unfamiliar with the unique culture of this state learn the difference between Creoles and Cajuns, discover what a Mardi Gras “krewe” is (an organization that hosts parades and balls) and gain insight into the careers of music legends that called Louisiana home, including Fats Domino and Louis Armstrong. I’ve visited Louisiana many times, but I still found the exhibits to be informative and entertaining.

I carefully perused “The Mighty Mississippi,” a section of a permanent exhibit called “Grounds for Greatness: Louisiana and the Nation.”  It chronicles the evolution of steam-powered river boats in the early 19th century and outlines how those miraculous vessels revolutionized transportation and commerce on the Mississippi River, ushering in a Golden Age of river travel.

Rollin’ on the River

After a long day of touring, I was happy to return to the comfort of the American Duchess. A refurbished paddle-wheeler, it looks like a classic steamboat on the outside, but the lobby has contemporary touches, including several pieces of modern art, and the all-suite staterooms are contemporary and spacious.

It’s easy to get to know your fellow passengers on a boat with a capacity of 166, and I struck up conversations with couples from France, England and Canada. They were captivated by Mark Twain’s tales of life on the Mississippi River and were eager to have their own adventures.  It was a reminder that what’s considered an “exotic” destination is all about perspective.

An onboard riverlorian, someone who specializes in river history and lore, provides daily lectures and holds question-and-answer sessions.

Evenings were spent relishing delectable, multi-course meals in The Grand Dining Room, where service was attentive. Dinner was always followed by a show, and when the cast performed “Proud Mary,” the feel-good song made famous by Tina Turner, I joined in when the audience belted out the familiar lyrics, “Rollin’, rollin’, rollin’ on the River.”

It was a fitting finale to my Mississippi adventure.

If you go

American Queen Steamboat Company offers cruises on the Mississippi, Ohio, Tennessee and Cumberland rivers, as well as the Snake and Columbia rivers.

Fares start at $2,999 for a nine-day cruise from Memphis to New Orleans on the American Duchess.

Call 1-888-749-5280 or visit for more information.



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