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jonnybischof last won the day on February 26 2018

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About jonnybischof

  • Birthday 07/31/1987

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  1. Are you printing at a different layer height? It looks like underextrusion and bad layer adhesion. The underextrusion could be due to a higher layer height (?) which might be too high. For example with a 0.4mm nozzle, you don't want to go over 0.2mm layer height because your print lines won't be "square" anymore but more like "rounded out" which seems to be the case here. What material are you printing with? edit: By the way, for strong and accurate mechanical parts I never print faster than 40 mm/s. Typically I'd print at 35mm/s (PLA). For some PLA brands, printing faster will give me a very brittle and easily delaminating result.
  2. "Print one at a time" needs to be set up carefully. You need to teach Cura (or any slicer software) the dimensions of your printhead and gantry so that it knows where it can go without hitting previously printed parts. If you're using a "brand" machine like an Ultimaker, this information is stored in the machine profile. For custom builds you'll have to set up the profile. You could set up your printer to automatically print a part, cool down, knock the part off the build plate (by deliberately hitting it with the printhead) and out of the printer, then heat back up and start over and over. But that requires some scripting I'm not familiar with. Has been shown by others though.
  3. Assuming that the top of your model is horizontal (parallel to the bottom, parallel to the build plate), the easiest thing to do in order to get uniform walls everywhere (and nothing else) would be to change the settings and the model a bit: The idea is to change the model from "tube" to "cylinder". Meaning fill out the internal space of your model so that it will have the same outer shape, but be solid inside. Simplified dummy for illustration: Then, you print the model with 3 walls (3x 0.4mm nozzle size = 1.2 mm), 0% infill and no solid infill top and bottom (uncheck boxes in Cura). This will get you the result you want. You can also make thicker or thinner walls by simply changing the settings. Always use a wall thickness that equals a multiple of your nozzle size. It only works with a flat (horizontal) top because if your top is not horizontal, it will be treated as a wall: So, what you wanna do is not print any infill (which is printed as what you called little bridges) at all, but just (outer) perimeter lines of the model and leave everything else away. That means, disable the according print settings, and remove the according features of the model (anything except outer contour). /edit: One important detail I forgot: As mastory mentioned, using this trick you will get variations in actual wall thickness, because Cura will always print the walls horizontally. A 90° wall will have the thickness it's supposed to have, but with increasing slope, the actual wall thickness will be reduced. You'll have to make a test print and check if that is acceptable or not. /edit2: For some reason this forum will insert the last picture again at the end of my post o.O Please disregard...
  4. That would be a good idea, if the UM team wants that. I can also provide the source documents for the docs
  5. I would definitely add PDF and ZIP to the list. Doesn't matter much to me since I'm not really active on this forum anymore. But this just belonged here
  6. I made some additional documentation outputs of the Ultimainboard 2.1.4. Since this great forum won't let me upload anything, here's the link to where I put it up originally: http://3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?p=11752#p11757 Source files taken from the Ultimaker2 Github repository.
  7. Do you use the regular stepper motor drivers, or silent ones like TMC2100? I found that already manually moving the gantry made a lot of "aluminum" noise..
  8. On the note of aluminum frames: I must say that I don't like alu frames. They are strong and you can easily put stuff on them, but (precise) assembly is tricky because you have to put every beam together at the right point, check angles and so on. And the biggest disadvantage imo is the noise - aluminum frames seem to result in a more noisy machine overall. The stepper motor vibrations / noises get amplified by the aluminum (resonance). I don't like that... I have gone back to my initial idea of making a frame from HPL material (Trespa Virtuon 8 mm in my case). But for that I need a good CNC machine up and running. Takes time and money :(
  9. I can make orders at Misumi from my workplace. Luckily, I do sometimes need Misumi parts at work so I can justify having an account there If there is a local FabLab near you, you could ask them if they can make orders. As long as they have a registered VAT number, they should be able to make orders. The easier way however is to just go for another brand / shop. There are several good aluminum extrusion systems out there. I dare say Misumi probably has the most extensive (maybe expensive, too) and most customizable range of aluminum extrusions in the world. But for the Ultimaker frame you don't actually need much more than a bunch of straight, accurately cut, standard extrusions with some mounting options.
  10. Do you mean GEFBB0.5-60-2-12-W7-H14-TPC3 ? This could be nice, and very solid because you can put the parts together using one long setscrew. But you can only connect the gear's hub to the MK7, not the gear itself. That's not quite the same as foehnsturm did. Anyways, you could try Misumi's Nylon gears (GEABM0.5), drill out their hub to fit it onto the MK7/8 and glue the parts together. The Nylon is easy enough to drill through even with "toy grade" tools. /edit: GEABM0.5-90-3-B-9 has a 9mm bore. But 90 teeth (min for that bore) is quite a lot. Would of course be great for torque, but that gear has a 45mm diameter.
  11. That is really a nice system! I bet it's not cheap though.. The way I described above is pretty much the same, except it works using only M8 screws instead of the connector. It is less flexible because you need pre-drilled holes in the profiles positioned where you want the profiles to connect. And there's only 90° angles, nothing more advanced like this Maytec system offers. Would be interesting to get a full price comparison for an UM frame made with the Maytec system.
  12. It depends on how you mount the extrusions to that plate. Note that the usual profile nuts have a huge amount of play. I didn't find a way to reliably mount my (large, 2mm steel) brackets to the profiles without manually aligning them while tightening several screws at the same time. If you can hire a few extra hands to help, then it works. Also, a large 90° angle tool helps a lot. But it's really not cool if you have to do it alone..
  13. They just forgot to free the pad. But then they also used too large vias which wick away the solder paste from the IC's pad. Whoever designed that driver didn't care much about "details"... You can just put the heatsink on them regardless. Heat transfer will be worse, but should still be somewhat functional.
  14. This is an automotive part. The datasheet says 24..30V input voltage -> UMO power supply is 19V (Maybe UMO+ has a different one, don't know...). So that's out of spec. Output voltage is 13.8V which is also out of spec for a 12V fan. I would use a normal 24V to 12V DC/DC converter (5-10W) for a single fan, if you want it to run from the UMO power supply. One of the cheapest methods however is to just use some cheap 12V power supply. For example, an old external harddrive power supply adapter. These have more than enough power for a fan.
  15. This is a chinese clone of the actual SilentStepStick. No clue how it compares to the original... If they're actually using the same parts, then there shouldn't be any difference. But you never know with the Chinese... You can get the Original here: http://www.watterott.com/en/SilentStepStick /edit: LOL Looking at the pictures on aliexpress, you can see three things: 1. it's a different layout than the SilentStepStick (but not necessarily electrically different!) 2. There actually is a trinamic IC on the picture (good sign) 3. The soldering quality is HORRIBLE. This is really painful to watch, being an electronics engineer... The components look like they were thrown onto the board from a distance. The amount of solder is very uneven with lots of short-circuits on some and missing solder on other pads. This is definitely POOR workmanship. My advice: Do not buy.
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