The Third Watch

Key words: distinctive, timeless, damn good lookin'.Often worn with: anything from T-shirts to Tuxedos.Budget: $5,000.

Jeffrey Westbrook/Studio D
1. Steel Arceau Ebony chronograph ($6,500) by Hermès. 2. Steel Grand Carrera Calibre 6 RS watch ($3,500) by TAG Heuer. 3. Stainless-steel Aquatimer Automatic 2000 watch ($4,400) by IWC. 4. Steel Airwolf Raven watch ($4,080) by Breitling. 5. Stainless-steel Star 4810 automatic chronograph ($3,830) by Montblanc.

What You're Looking for:

DISTINGUISHING FEATURES: Maybe it's the pronounced pilot crown of this IWC watch or the sloping numerals on a Hermès dial: There should be one feature that sets it apart.

MECHANICAL MOVEMENT: If you're looking for a watch that will last a lifetime, invest in the kind of craftsmanship that produces mechanical movements.

What You're Not:

ANYTHING TOO TRENDY: Trends like elaborate bezels and oversized dials (i.e., anything larger than 44 mm) come and go, but a midsized watch with a fairly basic design and color scheme never goes out of style.

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