Just below St Mortiz, the village of Celerina is an ideal base to explore the famous ski runs in winter, or the walks along the Engadine Valley in summer. Down a quiet side street, an ornate sign marks the 300-year-old Chesa Rosatsch, right by the Inn River. In 1996, what was already a comfortable, family-run hotel was upgraded even further by the new managers. In recent years, expansion has doubled the number of bedrooms, but the small and charming ambience remains. The cheerful, primrose yellow annexe has the same deep windows and sloping roof as its ancient neighbour and, by using natural materials such as untreated wood, stone and linen, the effect is traditional with a modern twist. Colours are bolder and brighter, too.
   Overall, our readers approve of the changes, which include the restaurants. The Stavas, with its mellow wood-panelling and ornate door-lock, had always been a meeting place for villagers and holiday makers alike. Now it is dedicated to lighter, gourmet dishes, while the more informal La Cuort is an indoor courtyard, with a wood-fired oven. The Inn Bar, with its array of malt whiskies and cigars, has become a fashionable spot.