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  2. To make this a bit more interesting have a pic of my Brat..
  3. Thanks Bennie, can this be accessed on the net or do I have to buy one? Cheers.
  4. el_freddo

    EA81 Brat Wheeltrack Widths?

    FSM = factory service manual. Cheers Bennie
  5. Time to re-visit this, as I will be doing this soon as the Brat has been off the road for a while. Excuse my ignorance but what to you mean by "FSM" I think I have a plan formulated but I need the track widths front and rear, I've searched everywhere on the web but there seems to be a lot of conflicting info. It would be much appreciated if somebody could let me know. Thanks!
  6. Today
  7. The 99 Forester 2.5 call for a 16 PSI cap. The 99 Legacy 2.2 calls for a 13 PSI cap. The cooling system should be under pressure to raise the boiling point of the coolant.
  8. https://www.facebook.com/groups/longviewkelsoeverythingbutclothes/permalink/2613743861996065/?sale_post_id=2613743861996065
  9. When applying the brakes, the brake light switch sends voltage to the Transmission Control Module and it should release the lockup solenoid for the torque converter. Personally, I would drop the pan on the tranny. In side on the bottom of the pan is a doughnut shaped magnet. It can be removed and cleaned with paper towels. It is normal for it to have a light coating of metal powder on it from the wearing of clutches and bands. Its purpose is to keep that stuff from getting into the many bearings in the tranny. But if the crud is thick, then the clutches etc. have a lot of ware on them. I don't know automatics good enough to guess how much longer it has to live. But, I can say that I have gotten a used tranny from a yard with 100k miles on it and the crud was about a sixteenth of an inch, and the tranny went another 100k in our mail car. When you do the control arm bushings keep in mind that the vehicles weight must be on the wheels when you tighten the nuts for the front and rear bushings. Mount everything and then drive the front wheels onto ramps and then tighten them. If the vehicle is jacked up and the control arm is hanging down and you tighten the mounting bolt and nuts, the rubber in the bushings may not last a year. I learned that the hard way. When you have some time, read this page. I knew about two of their products that work wonders, but the Sperm Whale oil was a surprise. https://www.lubegard.com/technology/
  10. it shouldn't be any more than 13 or so psi since the radiator cap should release into the bottle. check if there's a blockage on the cap? I've seen caps that have the rubber part expand over time and jam the relief valve mechanism from opening.
  11. some folks like the Mevotech 'loaded' replacement arms - some of those folks might put an OEM ball joint on it in place of the M'tech one. KYB is the go-to on struts. I strongly suggest new strut mounts as you bearings are likely dry and crunchy at 19 years old. you might check youtube for videos. Some folks borrow McPherson strut spring compressors from the parts store and DIY the whole process. Others take their assemblies and new parts to a shop and pay them to swap over. 2 main 'gotchas'; the 'spacer'/conical washer at the top must present its narrow side UP. And, the springs and top spring perch are oriented 'out' , towards the fender so keep an eye on that or mark them before disassembly.
  12. the piston shape is the main way to tell. shoot us a pic of the pistons and im sure one of us can figure it out
  13. not very much. the engines were just installed. After they burp their air thats about a cup or so of anti freeze to top off.
  14. Need to catch up on maintenance on wife's 2000 Forester L. Need to do LCA bushings as they are shot. Don't have a press right now, but not opposed to buying one. Any tips advice on brands, completing the task, etc. Also, need to do struts at the same time. Suggestions or tips on completing that efficiently. I'll be by myself in my garage doing it all.
  15. Thank you for that insight. Perhaps it doesn't consistently do it because sometimes it doesn't get into 4th gear and lock up. I'll test that theory. I did a drain and refill. doing a flush through is on the tap for this weekend. It's not too hard either way. At least they put in a drain plug. Thanks all for the additional info. I did a drain and refill (accidentally overfill) on Sunday. It feels like it is working better since then. I was using M1 Synthetic and replaced it with regular Dex III. The car is at the shop to get diagnosed. They did say the trans is slipping and will be test driving it in the morning when it is cold. Perhaps new fluid combined with transx will extend me for a while. Maybe I should put some of that into my PS fluid before I replace the weeping rack. I need to do LCA bushing and struts too. Ultimately, if I can buy us a year or two on the transmission, I'll be thrilled. I'm hanging on to the theory that it is better to fix this car than buy something else for our son.
  16. armedequation

    07 forester xt

    sorry i havent updated this. ive been recovering and working. car did amazing and is amazing! its everything i hoped for and more. engine performed flawlessly and car did great in some pretty horrid weather. idaho had ground level clouds that produced ice while wyoming had 70+ mph winds blowing drifts onto a highway that has an 80mph speed limit. 10 cars had gone off the road, 2 jack knifed semis, 1 semi that caught fire and a trailer that had flipped and disintegrated on impact. google maps has it as an 18.5 hour trip driving straight through and i was able to do it in 22 by myself. my first plan of action after i take on the dmv is to get a 2nd set of rims with some studded snows
  17. Hello i have a question that some of you might be able to answer. I have a couple customers 99 foresters that i just installed JDM 2.0 SOHC engines. After test driving them and getting them up to temp i noticed that the radiator hoses have a decent amount of pressure in them. You can still squeeze the hose but you cant squeeze it enough to get the sides of the hose to touch. On my 99 outback with a phase 1 2.2 i can drive it the same distance/temp and the hose has almost no pressure in it when warmed up. Ive never paid much attention to hose pressure unless there's an overheating issue. Just wondering what the difference might be
  18. DaveT

    Ea71 starting issues

    Verify the choke is working properly. When the engine is cold, it should snap closed when you pump the gas once before turning the key. Once it has warmed up, [and as it warms up] the choke should open. On a warm start, it should not be closed tight again, or not at all, depending on the temperature.
  19. Yesterday
  20. Part 3 of the series, this one gets to the meat and potatoes of getting started in stage rally. https://youtu.be/RQw2Z6w1nkY
  21. Jethrro

    Junkyard GLs

    Looking for a 5 speed dual range shifter and tranny mounts Ea82 stuff
  22. Update--TCM replaced, TB cleaned, replaced air filter, and oil leak was not a leak, turns out it was overfilled, drained some oil into a bucket and will see if it still leaks tomorrow. Car is driving, idles better and no dips in RPMS when I from Park/Reverse to drive. Looking into extended warranties and I was able to found one that I am highly considering.
  23. I have an '80 ea71, with weber 32/36 on it. Recently when it does a warm start 10 minutes after I shut it off I have to floor it to get it to fire up. Is it the choke or does the carb need rebuilt?
  25. Kluberto

    86 Hatch 5spd D/R Need Info

    Swapped out my old crap steering wheel to a justy one, as well as re-upholstered my headliner.
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