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  2. @ronfire, you could try posting that you are looking for a used wheel in the forum Community Marketplace. Might be someone with one for sale in BC. I know there is someone in Mission BC with those wheels for sale and I believe she is asking about the same price.
  3. Today
  4. Forward cant of this spout helps gravity pull this down and away for most all pouring conditions. Nice design!
  5. Just needs to have a sharp edge. Often easiest to do after bisque as the clay can be block sanded to create a very uniform sharp transition at the front edge. Less surface attachment better chance for gravity to rip it away cleanly. Interesting point, next time you are at a shopping center look up at the ceiling of most canopies (Stucco type). It’s common to place a V groove a few inches in from the edge so as the water rolls around the canopy edge to the canopy ceiling it has to go back uphill into the V groove. This gives gravity time to do its work. Worst case, pitchers could sport the same groove just under the trailing edge of the spout but in the end some liquid would roll down the pitcher. It would only be a fail safe against extended pouring dribbles. Basically anything you do to make this pouring angle more acute and sharp gives gravity an advantage for a clean separation.
  6. I wish I had more glaze chemistry in my studies. I took a second level glaze class but my professor was tired of teaching it so he turned it into a history class. I tried to take it again but there was always a waiting list, I had already passed it so I was at the bottom of the list every year. I kept a tight watch on my required classes, I didn't want to pay for one that wasn't needed, but I was willing to pay for this class again. I thought it was that important. Denice
  7. Your rounded rim is not so much a problem, but the entire spout set up is. There are a few steps you can take to make it work better: start the throat of the pitcher about a third of the way down the form. use the thumb and curved forefinger to shape the spout once the shape you have presently by pulling upwards with the thumb inside the spout and the curved forefinger outside, use lots of water and pull so that the spout rises and things slightly. . not so thin as to become weak, just enough to shape and thin the rim. Lastly on the spout use a damp finger on the inside of the spout rubbing back and forth to slightly widen the spout where at the rim. Last step is to use the finger around the untouched rim to move it slightly lower than the area of the spout, this I usually do on the wheel with the wheel speed slow, first finger inside hooked over the top . Hope my description is helpful, best, Pres
  8. Thanks, was thinking I might try a ridiculous low offer and see what happens. Everyone wants a fortune for used wheels in BC. Might be worth a try as I am using an Estrin powered kick wheel now.
  9. It looks like thinner is the direction I will go, thanks guys, I'll let you know how it goes.
  10. I have one in my classroom, and it's the best wheel we have. It's a real workhorse, and has tolerated probably about thirty years of teenagers, which says a lot. That is too high of a price, for sure. I've noticed that a lot of people over price wheels and kilns, when selling them. They apparently think they are sitting on something rare, or are using the price that a new one would go for. If you can get it for a cheaper price, I'd go for it, otherwise, pass.
  11. I remember the packaging, this was probably 15 years ago or more. They did make an overglaze material, and it was fired to a lower temp over a pre-fired glazed piece. SC has gotten out of most of these glaze products preferring to use 3 rd party manufacturers it seems. My humble opinion, best, Pres
  12. Call Standard and see if they have any info on it.
  13. You need a sharp edge on the spout. When you make the spout, first pull it up to thin it out, then shape it.
  14. photo of actual spout from side be good as the angle of the pouring edge is important imo. check out a few pitchers which you know work dripless
  15. Pull more lip and make the edge thinner.Its always a trade off.
  16. It's hard when you keep a round edge like that. You can try scraping the glaze off after it's dried just on the spout, so when it fires its more of a sharp edge there that will cut the water off after a pour. Other than that I am not great at spouts myself but if I don't make a sharp edge on my spouts whether it's tea pots, sake jars or pitchers, they dribble pretty bad.
  17. Well--that was just sad. (The videos exposing the hording disorder--some of the clay work was interesting). The condition is so resistent to treatment, and so very distressing to family members---hard to watch, let alone live with. Any idea what the little holes in the spheres are--they look rough or accidental or a flaw, but maybe there is an aesthetic or purpose there?
  18. I use a water-based resist from Bailey. Every once in a while if it gritty/clumping I add just a tad bit of water-not much-and zap it in the microwave for a minute or so, then whisk it smooth--no problems at all, covers and seals just like new!
  19. I have been making a two quart open pitcher. I have not figured out how to make them pour, and they tend to drip down the side. Fortunately, most people want them for vases, but I like to have things functional, and would like them to pour. This is one of the first. I have tried a narrower spout, and a more pronounced lip, I haven't tried thinning the lip, mainly for durability. Also I've already changed the handle for better control and aesthetics. Any suggestions
  20. Can I add glaze and glaze fire again?

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Artebella


      Porcelain , slow bisque fire to 04 unglazed in electric crucible kiln, Matt commercial glaze two coats, food safe no lead,  liquid glaze brushed on, fast glaze fire to 6;   I am a bronze sculpture artist new to ceramic sculpture.   sculptures came out too light and uneven color, not attractive and can not be sold looking like this.    If I can fire again with the exact same glaze and get full cover with no clear or pale parts, that would save the sculptures.  

      All were completely room temp before glazed and returned to kiln for glaze fire.

      Thank you for your response

    3. LeeU


      Hi Artebella---my suggestion is add this as a new topic in the Clay and Glaze Chemistry forum. Use a title like Glaze and Refire so it will be clear and easy for people to respond. You will get good feedback and direction in that forum.  You can copy and paste the info along with your query.   Welcome!


    4. Artebella


      Thank you   for the suggestion.   I have a lot to learn about this.

  21. I'm having the same problem as MichaelP. Also with Amaco brand wax resist. Never had this problem before with other brands of wax resist. It works but it's much more difficult to deal with than usual.
  22. Yesterday
  23. So do think the orange color on the plain clay part is coming from some sort of soda ash or baking soda in the glaze?
  24. Mary said: “Notice﻿ how the clay appears stained reddish from about 1/2" from the bottom up. I'm sure the cups were clean when they went in and not sure where this discoloration is coming from. could it be that the Iron soaked from the glaze through the clay?” try a thin wash of either baking soda or soda ash on raw bisqued area and see what happens. I get an orange stain in high fire reduction; some colleagues have gotten orange flashing at cone 6 oxidation. LT
  25. I bought a used RK2 a few years ago. $150. We put some work into it. New plug, cleaned it up. Works great, just a bit noisy. It's a good spare. Roberta
  26. inspirational mark. well thought out scheme!
  27. LOL - do they come in tan? Years ago, my Mom asked my daughter what to get for my birthday, she said, "Clay-colored overalls."
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