Sunday, November 13, 2011


iMac G4 running Lion


KEEX - 6100 ECX (3.5" board)

This board or several other ECX boards can be obtained from

Here is their selection of ECX boards



I. Power Source

A) The Native 20" PSU

Using the Native PSU alone


12V to 5V DC-DC Downconverter


Native PSU ONLY - 20" Power Scheme

B) Convert AC Power to 24VDC
24V Power Scheme
AC to 24V DC Brick
To Sum Up:


Variable input Pico PSU




C) Convert AC to 12V then Upconvert to 24V



DC-DC 12V to 24V Converter




20" iMac G4 Inverter Pinout
And here is the new scheme using this method:
12V to 24V Power Scheme


iMac G4 20" TMDS to DVI Pinout
DVI Connector



Female DVI Pin Number from Tom's Hardware


The pins make a 90 degree turn

The Most Important View - The Bottom Pins

A) The LCD cables



- First pry open the top
- Then the side
- And then the metal cover should bend back and snap off





B) The DVI Connector - Black Cable

 LOCATE PINS 1, 2, and 3 on the DVI.
   - Closest Row to the back of the connector
   - Furthest from the Analog Area
   - Find the iMacs Black Cable and isolate the Brown Wire

LOCATE PINS 9, 10, and 11 on the DVI.
 - Furthest from the Analog Area
 - Find the iMacs Black Cable and isolate the Blue Wire

LOCATE PINS 17, 18, and 19 on the DVI.
 - Furthest from the Analog Area
 - Find the iMacs Black Cable and isolate the Green Wire

LOCATE PINS 22, 23, and 24 on the DVI.
-  Closest to the Analog Area
 - Find the iMacs Black Cable and isolate the Red Wire

Here is a summary picture showing where each wire should go:

For now focus only on the black LCD cable.

As Shown, The Black cable gives off 4 wires:



Please confirm that what you have matches this illustration.

C) The DVI Connector - The Gray Cable


-  The 12V wires are the PURPLE, ORANGE and YELLOW

- The Ground Wires are the GRAY, BLUE, and GREEN

12V and GroundWires
3 wires remain, these will hook up to the DVI Connector

D) The DVI Connector - Create our own cable.






So either:

and 1 White LVDS wire with a male pin on its end




Plastic and Shielding Peeled Back


- Strip the non pin end of this wire





With Resistor Added

5.  Secure the resistor with electrical tape +/- solder

6.  Connect the 3 ends of your newly constructed cable


Hot Pink/Red Wire Interface






The completed wire
Finalized with Important Wires Labeled



Soldered Cable
Secured with Electrical Tape
Hooked up to Motherboard Power LED.
Also seen are the antenna hooked up to the Broadcom Wifi
Tip, Ring, Sleeve
Testing the LED and Microphone with
Alligator Wires
Turtle Bay USB Audio
F) The Computer/The Base


1.The Components:

Motherboard: Quanmax KEEX - 6100 Sandy Bridge ECX Motherboard
CPU: Core i5 Mobile 2520M
DVD: Lite-On 24X DVD Burner with Lightscribe support
Fan/Heatsink: Dynatron Socket G l2 Mobile Cooler
                          Windows 8 DP on this.  Transcend 32GB CF Card
Audio: Turtle Beach Amigo II USB Sound Card
PCI Express Wifi: Broadcom BCM94322MC PCI express Wifi
Extras: 16GB USB stick for Lion installation
            Griffin iFire Adapter for speakers with PCI express to AC adapter
            Sheets of Styrene
            iMac G4's DVD and HDD cradle
            Hard Plastic Spacers
            Computer Screws
            Rocker Switch
            Computer Power Momentary Switch
            Computer Pins and extra Wires
            2.5" SSD Rubber Case
            Hot Glue Gun
            Modeling Clay
            Gorilla Glue
            Double Sided Mounting Tape
            Aluminum and Electrical Tape
            Motherboard Pins to 2 USB ports x 2
            Cable Ties
            Wired Keyboard and Mouse
            Male DVI to Female HDMI adapter
            Short 1 foot HDMI cable
            4pin PSU power female to male extender
            SATA cables x 2
            SATA power splitter (PSU had only one SATA)
            3.5mm Audio Jack Extender


2. Setup

Wire Management



Lay it out as its supposed to work


3. Installation


Screw in first to determine placement


Fit testing







4.  Power Button and Ports








Completed Mod




Thanks for reading!!


  1. If I understand right, so you are trying to build a Hackintosh inside a iMac G4! That's fantastic! I have a working iMac G4 20 and I am always thinking to get it some boost. Wish you luck.

  2. I am looking for guidance/counsel from an experienced one.

    I have a 17" iMac G4 (1.25GHz) with a bad display.

    I also have a 20" iMac LCD with no back housing.

    How do I connect the 20" display to the 17" inverter?

  3. William, thank you very much....things are coming along nicely, stay tuned.

    Reinheimer - I'm happy to help. Unfortunately, there is no way to do it. There are 6 ccfl lamps on the 20" and only 2 on the 17". Even if you could "distribute" the voltage between the lamps the display would not be bright enough to be useful. A 20" inverter and LCD housing can be found on eBay for probably $20 each if you wanted to "complete" you LCD.

  4. Hi Jberg, I've read your blog from top to bottom. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with everyone! I recently inherited a working 15" G4. You hinted that it's nearly sacrilege to rip up a working G4, but I don't know what other use I would have for an 800MHz machine besides using it as a high-wattage photo viewer or very slow web surfer. That said, I'm probably going to rip it apart anyway and put an itx board inside. I won't bother with an optical drive so I'll have room for a decently sized fan. Won't start the project until after January, so I have time to consider all options. Just wanted to say thanks!

  5. Wow, I also have a 20" iMac which isn´t working very well. I can´t wait to see the rest of your step-by-step guide.
    Thanks a lot JBerg!!

  6. Envador - Thank you for the kind words and I wanted to apologize if I sounded "preachy". It is not up to anyone else what someone chooses to do with their own property. My own basement is littered with the "carcases" of used electronics and failed projects. Based on people who contact me I'd estimate that less than 50% of people who start this successfully finish for whatever reason. I just didn't want to encourage people to buy working machines from eBay - tear them apart and then dump them - when there may be people who could have used the original machine. I have no problem with you modding your iMac however you see fit and I am available to provide any help should you need. JB

  7. JGml - sorry for the delay it's actually more software related than hardware which is set to go. I will be completing this shortly.

  8. Hi JBerg,
    Thanks for the write-up, which makes me pull the trigger on a used 20inch iMac G4 finally.

    Just tore it down. Planning for the mod.

    1) The Bulky Optical Drive and 3.5 inch HDD will be eliminated so I think there will be more room for standard parts.
    2) Would rather go the Mini ITX way, your ECX mod is impressive but I prefer the choices on CPU, heatsink and ECX board+Mobile CPU is pricy to me.
    3) I am not familiar with LCD part. So except the genuineness, any other goods with factory LCD panel? Or it is just the inverter which is hard to find for aftermarket panel?
    4) PSU part, how much possibility is it to use the native power supply? (20 inch iMac G4 has a 190 watt PSU, should be enough for everything, I am not sure but wouldn't the 16pin connector ready for 12v, 5v 3.3v, and maybe 24v?)


  9. Edwin, I'm glad to hear it, and I'll do my best to answer your questions. 1) you are correct, if you use a mini itx you can not fit an optical drive. Lots of options for hard drives exist today 2.5", 1.8" or even other types of flash memmory ex. Pci-e, compact flash. 2) don't want to sound like an ECX pusher but there are different and cheaper alternatives. Remember the KEEX - 6100 is the "top of the line" in this category, but core 2 duo, solo, atom, amd options do exist. If you use a mini itx, consider a liquid cooling option whereby you can carry the heat from the processor to the exhaust at the top of the dome. A mini itx does fit (albeit at an awkward angle and some ports may be blocked), but airflow is non existant in the metal faraday cage. 3) I am not sure exactly what you are asking. The panel is really a whole monitor with the LCD controller inside the LCD itself and the special very thin inverter. 4) yes the native power supply has all those voltages. However, It did not fit in my design and I have experimented with 2 power supplies. In both cases they were either broken or not "jumped" in a standard fashion. But, I'm sure it's possible

  10. hello, quick question, i am trying to reuse my G5 isight 17" LCD, but i have question regarding the invertor, the invertor has 4 pins out, do you know which one is what? (as my G5 mobo is long dead,,,,)

    similar to you, i use itx board from BCM

    and with C2Q 9100 and GF520GT through PCI-e 1X for CUDA,

    i am attempting to get it working though either DVI(geforce) or Intel HD4000 (LDVS), the board does have invertor control but i dont know if the pin out match, and if i use dvi, i will need to be able to manual control the invertor...

    my email=allenpan (at) hotmail (dot) con

  11. this inverter is what i have:

  12. Just a note to all people regarding the post Envador made:
    I am currently typing this message flawlessly on an iMac G4 with only upgraded ram (1GB). If you are unsure about going all the way with your mod then I suggest tanking a look at MintPPC (a version of linux based off of Debian to bring life back to older PPC systems. It also works on the xbox 360!). It simply runs flawless and has allowed me to use the imac g4 as a small ftp, ssh, and web server. I also use it as a decently fast (comparable to smart phones, due to very similar specs to iPhone 4 and other pre-dual core smart phones) web browsing/social machine. The only tricky part was to get the drivers working for the original speakers. Yet, eventually, it all worked out. Just an idea for some of you, I'm not trying to hold back modders because I too plan to eventually mod this thing. But if you also have an old mac laptop (with a PPC processor in it) then this is also a solution for you.

    Just a note that there is no flash support with mintPPC, and HTML5 flash runs just as choppy as OSX would on the G4.

  13. Hi JBerg! When will you finally finish your iMac G4 "Genuine" Mod?
    I can´t wait to mod my own one!!


  14. JGml - the mod has been done for some time and now the guide is done. Enjoy!

  15. Hi JBerg, your new blog looks really great! I like it!

    I´m trying to mod my own iMac G5 with your 20" Guide. Seems good :)
    But theres one thing which I don´t get.

    At Point II./D)/7. you recommend to connect the yellow wire form the converter to the hot pink wire. I don´t understand which wires you mean. The hot pink wire is still connected with the white "extra" wire, isn´t it? And which yellow wire do you mean? The one which comes out of the grey lcd cable and goes to 12V?
    And to which wire have you connected the new green one?

    So you see I don´t get step 7...

    Hope you can help! Cheers!

  16. JGml, thank you very much. Sorry to confuse you. The yellow wire I am talking about is the from the Inverter. Right now you should have 5 of the wires that come from the inverter hooked up. The Green/Black hook up to the ground of the upconverter and the Red/Blue hook up to the 24V of the upconverter. In addition, the Yellow Inverter wire hooks up to a 6.8Kohm resistor and then to 5V on the Molex. Think of this wire as an on/off, if it gets power, the backlights will be on. The annoying thing about this is that the display can be off, but the backlights will stay on.

    A "trick" to eliminating this is to get the 5V from the DVI source. This is DVI Pin 14, where 5V is given by the source/computer. I connected an orange wire to pin 14 and then split it. One side connected to a white wire (unaltered - no resistor), then to the hot pink/red wire. The other split/side went through a 1Kohm resistor to a yellow "extra - not the wire inverter yellow" wire then to DVI #16 (The hot plug).

    We need another 5V from Pin 14, for this you want to split that 5V again, but it must be unaltered (not through the 1Kohm resistor). You could take it directly from pin #14 (crowded), from the orange to white wire interface, or from the white wire to red/hot pink interface. As this is an optional step, I felt that this is the easiest place to take it from. So you leave the white "extra" wire and hot pink together but you add another wire that splits here. I used a green wire and wrapped around this inferface. Then connected that green wire to the 6.8K resistor and then connected the resistor to the yellow wire in the inverter cable. So the 5V essentially comes from DVI pin 14 and no longer from the molex.

    So when the DVI does not send an image (ie sleep) the backlights will turn off.

  17. Hi JBerg, thanks for all the details you have post here. I just have one question. Does the TMDS to DVI work with the output from my laptop which is actually a display port or HDMI to DVI ?

    1. Display Port should work, but it's a different standard, so I can not say or sure. HDMI using a simple adapter will 100% work. hDMI uses TMDS as well, this is the setup I currently use for both my 20" mods. One uses HDMI to a Mac mini, the other HDMI to the ECX board.

  18. Thanks JBerg! Now i finished theTMDS to DVI Mod but there is still a big problem. I plugged in the pico psu but there is no power coming out of the cpu. i tested the power which is coming out of the big power brick and there a 12V. So it seems that the pico psu is turned off if that is possible. Do I need the rocker switch you described in your guide the turn the psu on? If yes which pins exactly are the jumper pins?

    I never done a mod before and I have no electrical skills so I really have no idea how to get power out of the pcu...
    But I love the iMac and hope that I get it fixed :)

    Tank you so far!! Cheers

  19. JGml, yes any atx PSU thats does not have its connector plugged into a mobo, needs to be "jumped" to output power. This can be done by grounding the green pin. As most pico psu's don't have colored wires, you have to count. This will vary if you count the wrong way between different power supplies (some are 20 pin - with 10 on each side, some are 24 pin - with 12 on each side. The best thing to do is count from right to left with the clip FACING you. The green pin will be the 4th pin from the right. You not need a switch, but you have to connect that pin to a ground. That pin is surrounded by grounds. The two pins on each side are grounds. So take a wire or a paper clip, shove one end into the "green pin" and the other into the pin to the right or left of that pin, doesn't matter. See my pictures at the very top of the article. The red PSU is a 20 pin, the green wire connects the 4th pin from the right to the 3rd pin from the right (with the clip facing you). The yellow PSU is a 24 pin, the black wire connects to the 4th pin from the right (then goes to a switch) and the yellow wire that comes back goes to the 3rd pin from the right. Again the clip is facing you.

  20. Hey JBerg! Thank you again. Tried to jump the PSU but still no Output. But I tested the display without the PSU und it works!!
    It´s great! I´m so happy :)
    I´m sure that I will solve the PSU-problem. Maybe it´s defect... I will tell you if I get the iMac to run! And hopefully send you some nice pics :)
    So a thousand thanks again, your work and help was fantastic!!

    Cheers, JGml

  21. JGml, I'm honestly thrilled to hear about your success and it's why I made the blog in the first place. Good luck with the PSU and def send pics whn it's completed.

  22. Hey JBerg,

    I am interested in the same kind of build and was looking around for some boards untill I stumbled upon the following board: Intel DH61AG ( I was wondering about your opinion about this board and how it would fit in this kind of build.

    The boards has some special features like a slim profile, built in power source and a component for controlling display's, I quote from the review:

    "Further across the board we have the LVDS/eDP connector designed for uSFF HTPC and AIO systems. Complementing this connector is a series of jumpers that allow display voltage selection, backlight inverter voltage control and display brightness control."

    I apologize in advance if it's a dumb question, I was just wondering about your opinion on this board.

    1. Found this link on an intel site, check the components numbered 23, 22, 20 and 19. It seems that the inverter component is probably not compatible since it only supports 12v and 19v and if I remember correctly you stated that 24v was needed to power the inverter. Too bad...

    2. This link:

    3. I don't really know anything about this board. I personally do not think the mini itx form factor really works in this mod. It barely fits (often several ports are no accessible. It takes up the entire bottom of the dome, meaning anything you put above it will block the minimal air flow the dome allows and powering them can be a problem. But, I have never used this board or any other low profile board, but based on the length/width of the mini itx form factor, its likely not ideal.

      Most embedded boards will have the ability to directly power an inverter and support LVDS signaling. However, most of these tend to be for small LCDs, so the voltages for both powering the LCD and backlights are usually inadequate for larger (i.e. 20" LCDs). The backlight here does take 24V as you pointed out, but the larger problem is that the iMac G4's LCD uses TMDS signaling and not LVDS. If you wanted to change to an LVDS LCD, you'd have to rewire the neck. TMDS actually has several advantages and I would not recommend changing. Most motherboards come with a TMDS out, its the DVI/HDMI signal, all you have to do is add the power and place the pins in the right orientation.

    4. Hey JBerg,

      Thankyou for your reply, I will drop the boards and follow your guidelines.

  23. Great article. What would I need to do to use a 17" g4 with a logic board from a 20"?

    1. I assume you are talking about using a 17" LCD with a 17" neck with a 20" logic board. To be honest I'm not sure I would attempt this, there would be a big risk of damaging the logic board, the lcd or both. The 1/1.25Ghz 17" matches up better with the 1.25ghz 20". Which power source would you be using? You'd have to make sure the power source could power the 20" motherboard without problems.

      The biggest issue is power. You'd have to downconvert the power to the LCD panel from 12V to 5 or 3.3V. Then you'd have to change the power to the inverter from 24V to 12V. There are also several inconsistencies that may come up. Certain 17" models have less metal convection contacts for cooling. All in all I think you'd be better off getting a new matching 17" LCD or getting a 20" neck/lcd, but if you are dead set on it, start with downconverters for the lcd/backlights and see what happens (but its risky).

    2. Hmm. doesn't sound promising. I figured i'd just have to move a few wires around. I have a 17" 1.25Ghz machine with a fried processor. I got a logic board off ebay but it is for a 20" 1.25Ghz machine. J14 on the logic board has a couple extra pins. I've been searching for a pinout of the j14 connector for both the 20 and 17" logic boards, but have not been successful. I'm not too terribly interested in lots of work--i just need a machine to run Lego NXT software for my First Lego League team to use. (i'm 36 bucks invested so far...) Before it died, the 17 was rock-solid but slow. My intel mac-mini is fast but unstable. If it isn't too hard, i'd love to just make this work. It sounds like its not so easy though...

      I'm not too worried about frying anything as a dead machine is a dead machine--(or MOSTLY dead, as Miracle Max would say)

      I do appreciate your reply--if there is an easy fix, i'd love to hear it.. otherwise, the salad-bowl will go back into the closet...

  24. Wait... if I put the display from the 20" apple cinema display in my 20" g4, I wouldn't have to do the complicated wiring of the tmds to dvi conversion, right? It already has a dvi connection, I would just run the wires down the neck and put the power brick in the base and then my g4 would be an monitor.

  25. Nvm! I see now you have already answered a similar question, the inverter and LCD controller will prevent it from fitting, so some complex wiring is unavoidable

    1. Yes, they wont fit. But, with the addition of an extra wire, you can use the native iMac G4 inverter with the Apple Cinema Display. Then you can put the controller in the base. This does mean lengthening and altering the wires, but this is a very stable setup and its one that I am using almost daily. Please see my 20" ACD controller mod in May of 2011. These posts may help: glass.html

  26. Hi! I would like to do this but my knowledge in electronic and in english are so poor...
    To make simple, I found an Acer 20'' lcd monitor with his own alimentation and VGA out. The problem is that the Acer inverter card can't be placed behind de screen. Not enough space. Do you think I can use the Apple inverter card with the Acer display ?
    Cables arriving to the Acer invert are the following :
    1. +5V
    2. +5V
    3. GND
    4. +3.3
    5. +3.3
    6. GND
    7. ON/OFF

    Thank you for your help. Wy do not bold a forum ?

    1. Unfortunately no, the voltages of the apple cinema display are quite different.

  27. What an Awesome Site!!! I have recently been given a 17" G4 and 2 15" G4 and my 14 year old is all about building a computer with his old man. It is a right of passage the older one went through last year making a windows gaming machine with water cooling. The younger son has Fallen in LOVE with the G4. This will be a project over the vacation break. I have NEVER done this before and am reading up on your site. Looking for a Kit of parts that we can use to do the conversion Do you have a current list with the best processor/combo for doing this? Also any thoughts on replacing the 17" with a 20" Touch screen? Costs? Thanks in advance.

    1. Hello KCP, I appreciate the compliment and am actually thrilled at the prospect that my blog would be the focus of a father/child project together. Repairing and replacing components of machines like 386s and commodore 64s is a lasting memory I have with my own father and can't wait til my kids are old enough (a hopefully have interest).

      So, currently Quanmax' KEEX 6100 with a mobile Core i5 (2520M) - Sandy Bridge - is my most advanced absolutely completed build. That said, I am nearly done with two Ivy Bridge Boards. Aaeon's EPI-QM77 with a mobile Core i7 (3610QM) and Intel's NUC QS-77 with an embedded Core i3 processor.

      It really comes down to Cost, If you want an all-in-one, Want a hackintosh, and how powerful you need this to be. Using the guide and the DVI connector, you can connect this to an external computer source. Making an all in one is obviously more involved, but also could be more fun. The small form factor boards tend to be specialty items and can be quite expensive. The EPIC board and processor can run $600 - $1000, depending on which processor you choose. On the other end Atom/Fusion/VIA Pico boards can be $100 - $200, but will not be powerful or capable of running OS X 10.8. ARM boards such as the raspberry Pi can be even less expensive and can run android or other ARM Linux distros. Just because they are cheap doesn't mean they would be any less fun to tinker with and there is an excellent helpful community of people working in these boards. If a capable OS X machine is the goal, I'd probably recommend the Intel NUC (though I'd wait until I have finished my mod with this board to confirm it). It has a good balance between cost/performance, though at $300 it's still overpriced in general, but not bad for a hobby board. It includes the processor, though this means you won't be able to seat the processor together as part of the project, the RAM, mSATA drive, and wireless card must be chosen and installed. Plus, as this is intel supported an consumer aimed, it's available from Newegg and Amazon and will hopefully be easily upgraded in the future.

      In terms on monitor upgrades, the necks of the various sizes are different, so that a 17" neck will not support the weight of a 20" monitor. I have done a few touch screen G4 mods

      Though do have to warn you that this will add a layer of complexity and cost. I have not been happy with the resistive screens and have been investigating other technologies. The limiting factor is that the 20" and 17" are 16:10, a ratio no longer commonly available. I have tracked down a 20" 16:10 capacitive screen by 3M, but it is expensive, thick, and heavy. I am hopeful that touch films will soon be available, making this much easier.

      I hope this has been helpful and am available for any questions or assistance.

  28. Would you consider building an imac 20", as illustrated above, and selling them?

    1. Unfortunately no. These are far too time consuming and the parts involved are old and sometimes quite expensive. The price would be far too high to make it worth it and even then you're still talking about parts that are a decade old and could fail. I would not want to offer tech support, so it really would be a benifit to understand the construction as to troubleshoot problems in the future.

  29. Thank you so much for this guide!! I am working on converting my 20inch into a monitor using the native PSU. I just finished, and am needing some help troubleshooting. I am only getting a black screen. I checked, and the PSU is working and supplying the 12 and 24 volts. The hot plug detect is also working, as the back light turns on when I plug it in. I do believe everything is hooked up properly, so what is the chance that the monitor is broken? (i bought on ebay with no harddrive,so I have not seen if the screen works) Also, I am testing it via a DVI-D to hdmi cord, is it possible that it is not compatible? Is there any key connection I should check? Also, I only used one yellow wire coming from the PSU to provide the +12 volts, is only one needed?

    I apologize for all of the questions, I just dont want to end up with a decorative brick. I was able to follow the directions but I dont really have a solid enough understanding to troubleshoot well.

  30. It's my pleasure. Unfortunately, the chances of finding a defective LCD on ebay are fairly high. I have the benifit of having spare parts that I know work which allows me to test components such as this. The DVI to HDMI should not matter, that said once I had a defective DVI to HDMI adapter that caused me to nearly tear apart my setup before I figured it out. So, I would try different cables before junking the LCD. With a digital signal it doesn't take much to get nothing. The hot pink VEDID is essentially the on switch, so pay attention to that one in particular. Using one yellow wire doesn't matter as they all come from the same place. Also, use a light and look closely at the LCD to make sure there is no image and its not just the backlight turning off. The one thing you can not do is share resistors.

    It could just be pins shorting out forging to close. With the PSU and computer on, press on the pins of the DVI connector ans look at the LCD, if an image appears for a moment you know you have a short. Failing this, I'd verify all connections with a voltmeter on a continuity setting. But it certainly could be a defective lcd

  31. Hi, Thank you for posting the guide! I'm trying to make my 20'' a external monitor using native PSU from the method u use from above, but i have a few questions
    1. Do i have to connect all the require cable to the same ground or any ground that exist on the PSU?
    2. How much Watt of the 6.8k ohm are you using?
    3. the PSU is "always on" means once its done, i can just plug the c5 and it will comes on?
    4. should i connect the required LCD cables to the 12V out or Molex 12V in?
    5. while i try to use the PSU cables, should i just cut free with the original plug to the logicboard and free the molex connected to it as well?

    thank you very much

    1. Hello hello Kin, I'll try to answer them one at a time. 1) Any ground on the PSU will do, they actually all join together anyway. 2) I believe they are 1/2 watt. 3) The PSU will supply 12V out as soon as you plug it in. 4) I am somewhat confused by this question. I assume you are talking about the molex on the original PSU. That is essentially a dead end, it's cables actually come from the G4 motherboard. You need to supply 12V from a live 12V wire coming from the PSU. 5) This will help with answering #4 as well. Yes, that's what I did, I cut and stripped them and discarded the molex (though you can reuse it).

    2. It works! Thank you very much
      but the screen shows some random green dots while playing a video, is it because of the cable connections or the resistors?

    3. Usually this is either crosstalk between wires or more commonly a ground loop. Some other electrical signal is not going to its proper ground and is instead dancing around the DVI pins. Try connecting ground wires to an independent psu ground one by one

  32. I was wondering if I could use this then install mountain lion instead. Will that work? I want to get more power on my iMac G4 and was wondering if I use this board would it be good for games like Portal, Portal 2, TF2, Source games like that. Would there be any heating problems? Not being able to run it? Thanks in advance.

  33. Did you know that you can change the information (Including picture) on the About This Mac page?
    You probably do, but I just felt I had to say something about this amazing mod.

  34. Hi! I was in the progress of building my own "media display" with Raspberry Pi and display + touchscreen, but then I found this non-working 20" iMac G4. I'm now planning on just putting the Pi in the G4 and use its display (seemed to be working as it went white when I powered up the G4). I had already bought a 12V 8A power brick and 12V-5V step-down converter to power everything; USB hub (5V) - which will power the Pi as well (USB powered), LCD logic board (12V), touch screen (USB powered).
    But then I read the G4's display needs 24V to power up. So now I'm trying to decide whether to use the original PSU to power everything or buy a 12-24 step-up converter. Could you give me some advise? Could using the orignal PSU be overkill?

    It might be worth noting I haven't used any Molex cables (altough I possibly should have).

    Also, some images seem to be missing on the site? Other than that I love your guides!

    1. The lcd model number is the key. You can find a convertor board on ebay for it for about 35.00. This will solve the issue of the 24volts.

  35. Replies
    1. hello, i just wanted to say thanks... this tutorial is awesome.. took me about 6 ,onths to finally get the resitors, (i know im slow) but just got my g4 display running with my pc... absolutly beutiful... the display has no right being so nice for how old these snowballs are


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  38. I got the upper half of a 20" g4 iMac from my brother: the lower half is yet to be found in a garage, I'll look for it if the display works.
    I made the connections to an HDMI male plug, very confortable to work with since it has numbered screw terminals for the pins.
    Now my questions: I didn't understand a thing in the power compartment of this guide. Where are my + and -? Why does the table state 'connect to 12v' when we need a step up converter to 24v? Is there a way I can power the LCD from one or two variable PSUs just to check if it works before I buy anything? Have I become stupid all of a sudden, or have I always overestimated myself?

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  42. Hi, is there a special name for the display wire from the motherboard to the display? And is there a way of connecting the video cable via HDMI without soldering?

    With kind regards, Janneke.

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