The new subterranean bar 1534 commemorates the year that French explorer Jacques Cartier stumbled onto Canada. That may not seem much of a reason to head there for a drink, but there's a lot more to recommend than the discovery of our northern neighbors.

Imperial Cocktails

The Pearl of the Antilles drink at 1534. Mimi Ritzen Crawford for The Wall Street Journal

Start with its original cocktails, grouped into four parts. Each reflects a former part of the French empire: the Americas, Indochina, Polynesia and Africa. There's something for all tastes, even anti-Colonialist.

A refreshing Foreign Legion Punch from the Africa section mixes cognac with chai red bush tea, fresh lemon juice, Demerara syrup and black-cherry preserves. Indochina's Saigon Folly is a spicy gin-based concoction, while the Polynesian Tahitian 75 is a pink hibiscus variation on the classic French 75 champagne drink.

The room itself is narrow, softly lit, and relaxed. But it's best to sit at the bar. The bartenders are knowledgeable about the drinks, the menu—try the spiced lamb meatballs or croque-monsieur sticks—and even the four kinds of ice 1534 uses.

1534 is at 20 Prince St. in Manhattan and is open Sunday to Wednesday, 5 p.m. to 2 a.m., and 5 p.m. to 3 a.m. Thursday to Saturday; 212-966-5073.

Craig Karmin