Running Away: Edinburgh, Scotland

Take a tour of history.

January 1, 2003

Edinburgh, the vibrant capital of Scotland, built on seven hills, is an intriguing contrast of ancient and modern. Divided into the medieval Old Town, and the 18th century "New Town," Edinburgh attracts tourists year-round, many of whom tour in open-top buses. The area begs to be explored on foot, however. A running tour of this marvelous city takes the visitor through elegant Georgian streets, meandering riverside walkways, royal parks and extinct volcanoes.

My run begins at the entrance to the Queen’s Park, two miles south of the city center. Above me looms Edinburgh’s highest peak—Arthur’s Seat (823 feet), and the towering red cliffs of Salisbury Crags. Staying to the right, the path curves around "Samson’s Ribs" and the "Lion’s Haunch," mountainous shapes created by ancient volcanic movement, and along the Bawsinch Wildlife Reserve, and bird sanctuary beside Duddingston Village.

At the village entrance, I follow Causeway, a narrow side street that passes the Sheep Heid Inn, one of the oldest pubs in Edinburgh. While sheep’s head in broth isn’t on the menu these days, the pub is worth stopping in—visitors have been known to bump into Sean Connery’s brother having a pint!

Turning left I pick up speed on a flat one mile stretch towards the seaside town of Portobello and its windswept promenade overlooking the Firth of Forth (Forth river estuary). In summer you’ll find kids thronging the arcades as jet skiers brave the incoming tide. As I jog north against an unrelenting headwind, the promenade merges with Seafield Road, connecting Portobello with Leith—Edinburgh’s port, known for its many lively pubs, French-style cafes and seafood restaurants.

At Shore Road, a narrow cobblestone street leads across a small bridge spanning the Water of Leith. Here begins the secluded Leith Waterway Walking Path, parts of which were once a railway. One mile later I reach Warriston Crescent where, at number 10, a tablet commemorates the 1848 visit of composer Frederic Chopin. Nearby, at 8 Howard Place is Robert Louis Stevenson’s birthplace.

The crescent merges with Canonmills at a busy junction. A series of narrow, wooden bridges lead to the picturesque suburb of Stockbridge, nestled below Edinburgh’s thriving metropolis. I emerge at Arboretum Place, near the west entrance of the Royal Botanic Gardens—one of the finest gardens in the world, encompassing 72 manicured acres of rock gardens, green houses and a stunning herbaceous border. Entrance is free. But back to our run.