Wood-fired pizzas, especially in the "authentic" Neapolitan style, are all the rage these days. But the fact that they're trendy doesn't mean every kitchen does them well. In fact, I've begun to greet new wood-oven-pizza places with skepticism -- which, in part, is why it has taken me a full year since its opening to check out Vesta in Redwood City.

Mea culpa.

As it turns out, the name Vesta (the Roman goddess of the hearth and home) was an auspicious choice by owners Peter and Courtney Borrone. Peter's parents own the popular Café Borrone in Menlo Park, whose original home is where Vesta is now located. The building sat empty for 15 years, until Peter and Courtney opened the restaurant, a project that had been in the planning for some time.

From left, pizza makers Elbin Galindo, Francisco Ponce and Ricardo Rodriguez make pizzas at Vesta restaurant in Redwood City, Calif. on Wednesday, July 10,
From left, pizza makers Elbin Galindo, Francisco Ponce and Ricardo Rodriguez make pizzas at Vesta restaurant in Redwood City, Calif. on Wednesday, July 10, 2013. (LiPo Ching /Bay Area News Group) ( LiPo Ching )

The couple compiled ideas and recipes while living in Los Angeles and New York and while traveling abroad. And they tested recipes using a wood oven in the backyard of Peter's parents. It was time well spent, because Vesta has a delightful menu.

It is made up of salads, small plates and primarily Neapolitan-style pizzas -- made in a wood oven, with a thin crust and minimal toppings. The pies are "red" or "white" (meaning a plain base, rather than the creamy alfredo sauce some chain restaurants use).

The big drawback here is Vesta's popularity. Unless you arrive at off hours or have made a reservation, expect a wait. Vesta holds half its tables for reservations, and those are booked well in advance. The remaining seats are for walk-ins.


On a busy Friday evening, we waited 45 minutes, though the restaurant was happy to take our mobile number and call when our table was ready. That's a great service, in contrast to the use of those diabolical buzzers that tether you. We walked around the corner to enjoy a predinner cocktail. Once we were seated back at Vesta, the service was friendly and efficient.

The dining room's high ceilings and mosaic tile floors, however, raise noise to deafening levels when the restaurant is full. For something quieter, request a table on the front or back patio, or inside the indoor alcove beyond the kitchen.

The focal point of the main dining area is the pizza oven, which came from the Mugnaini company in Watsonville. Covered with gleaming tiles, it has an inner core imported from Naples, the birthplace of pizza. You can watch the pizzaiolo stretch one round of dough after another until they're impossibly thin. Then they're topped and baked. In only about two minutes, a bubbly, crisp pizza emerges from the oven, with the crust lightly charred and ever so chewy.

The centers of the pies are slightly moist and droopy, making a knife and fork desirable but not essential -- just the way aficionados of Neapolitan pizza like them.

The Margherita pizza ($14) is about as close to perfection as you can get. The flavorful, well-balanced tomato sauce is paired with fresh mozzarella and aromatic basil. The quality of the ingredients is highlighted by their sheer simplicity.

One of the most intriguing pies is the sausage and honey ($19). Spicy Italian sausage and a scattering of Serranos contrast beautifully with the creamy mascarpone and a subtle drizzle of sweet honey. It's little wonder why this dish has become a favorite.

Adding an egg ($3), as we did with the sausage and leek pizza ($19), is a fun way to change things up. This pie is cut into squares, with the egg on the center square. We used the saffron colored yolk as a dipping sauce, then shared the last piece.

Only the cherry tomato pizza ($15), with added bacon, failed to win us over. Liquid from the tomatoes made the crust a tad soggy. A quick roasting of the tomatoes could improve it.

Don't stay focused on pizzas, though, or you'll miss the wonderful small plates. On one, the three fat meatballs ($12) were nicely seared and still moist inside. Served simply with arugula and parmigiano reggiano cheese, they were a standout.

Surprisingly, Vesta makes vegetables exciting, too, giving both carrots ($8) and cauliflower ($9) a Middle-Eastern twist. The cauliflower is combined with almonds, currants, chilis and honey to create a dish with a texture as pleasing as its flavor. The sweet and savory carrots are grilled tender-crisp and seasoned with cumin and paprika, but it's the addition of lemon yogurt that really makes the dish special.

Paired with a glass of wine, the mixed sautéed mushrooms ($12) -- bathed lightly in crème fraîche and served on grilled bread -- would make a perfect lunch on a cool, gray day.

The wine list is small but interesting, with a preponderance of boutique producers and California-produced Italian varietals such as malvasia and sangiovese. The latter begs to be paired with the Margherita pizza. There's also a selection of mostly California craft brews.

Desserts are limited. There's gelato from Lush in Berkeley and affogato and biscotti, if you want a taste of something sweet. The Borrones have done such a nice job with the rest of the menu that it would be great to see what they could come up with for a signature dessert or two.

Vesta is successful because the Borrones get it -- they understand a new generation of diners wants quality food made with top-notch ingredients, but without the pomp of traditional fine dining. That, and maybe a little divine providence from Vesta herself.

Email Jennifer Graue at features@mercurynews.com.


* * ½

2022 Broadway St., Redwood City
The Dish: After a year in business, Vesta in downtown Redwood City is packing in diners with its focused menu of small plates and authentic Neapolitan-style pizzas.
Prices: Appetizers and small plates $2.50-$14; pizzas $10-$19, additional toppings $2-$5; wines by the glass $8-$13, by the bottle $32-$115
Details: Owners Peter and Courtney Borrone say Vesta is the manifestation of what they like to eat and how they like to dine. The place is ideal for a date night, a post-work nosh or a spur-of-the-moment meal.
Pluses: Terrific pizzas and appealing small plates; the wine list is interesting, though small.
Minuses: Without reservations, you could face a long wait; the dining room gets loud.
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday
11 a.m.-10 p.m