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Chevrolet Blazer Warning Lights and Gauges

The problem started last march with the engine light. I used a small shop for repairs. they couldn't fix it. they would reset it and it wouldn't come back for months. This month it came back so i took it to dealer. they fixed it. now it is back on again! the light seems to come on once a month.


  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    You may want to give Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy: Problems & Solutions a try.

    tidester, host
  • kaatman12kaatman12 Posts: 1
    My service engine light remains on all the time. I have had it reset several times to no avail. When the diagnostics are run, the error says that the O2 sensor is shows a high voltage. I have had this replaced but keep getting the same error.
    Problem appears to be in the computer. The real question here is that when I try to get my vehicle emmission tested for licensing, the computer shows that it is "NOT READY" and gives the same error message. Is there anything that can be done besides replacing the entire computer to solve this problem?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    There are 3 O2 sensors on a Blazer so did the right one get replaced? Need code to make sure. Plus if 99-01 model you have secondary air injection and if that has a fault can often show as an intermittant O2 sensor or bank rich due to a system check the computer runs - the system pump may be failing or a check valve frozen or hose burned out so give the code/model/year.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Need to get the code read out and then can help direct you to a fix - Advance and Autozone and many others read for free so stop by and write the code down - then have them erase it too. Post code - hundreds of possibilities.
  • I am sick of my 2001 blazer.It has 64000 miles. The check engine light came on again. The dealer calls the code p0410. That's a air pump. That code has been part of the last problem I had.The last time it had 5 codes at one time.(po101 0141 0155 0410 and 1416). Now it's only the po410. That one part will cost me $500 to fix.
    The part is on national back order. That tells me the part is in demand. So alot of blazers have this problem. Why is it not a recalled item? By the way since march I have spent $2000 in repairs.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Only used 99-01 so you lucked out - just kidding.
    Fixed my 01 and a total rebuild on the 99. Some parts can be obtained from a local auto store using the Delco # found on the pump and the check valves eveyone has. Got the pumpine for $100. See the description below because there are a few check valves, hoses, and solenoids also that often fail.

    DTC P0410 (SES Light On) - Secondary Air Injection
    P1415 and/or P1416 for secondary air injection Bank A and B can also be set if the powertrain control module (PCM) detects a heated oxygen sensor voltage mismatch and activates an internal test to confirm.

    Circuit Description:
    This is located under the radiator (pump, electric solenoid, and vacuum shutoff valve) and tees off up to the exhaust manifolds thru 2 check valves on 4.3L. For 4wd remove the front skid plate to access. The secondary air injection pump is used to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The PCM supplies a ground to the pump relay, which energizes the pump and the electric solenoid valve. Engine vacuum is applied to the shut-off valve when the solenoid is energized. The engine vacuum opens the shut-off valve that allows air to flow to the exhaust manifolds. Often the pump gets water/moisture in it and freezes up blowing the fuse and the check valves rust or freeze open internally and then burn thru the rubber hose, and even melt the lower &#147;T&#148;, shutoff, and even pump impeller.
  • theugamomtheugamom Posts: 1
    My check engine light just came on while traveling from Miami to Savannah, GA. I had the code read at Autozone and they said it was P1970 - manufacturer controlled transmission code and to see a dealer. Is there a way to fix this myself or must I take it to a dealer. Transmission is slipping a little but not bad - yet!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Believe you meant P1870.
    TSB # 01-07-30-023A


    Bottom line driving it may or may not damage it more - I had this occur on my 99 and after shutting it off and restarting it went away and that never returned. At least stop by and have the pan dropped and the filter changed ($60-85) and see if all works OK. This normally only requires a TCC solenoid replacement if any repair - but depends on mileage and use/abuse (towing/offroading etc).
  • broke3broke3 Posts: 1
    Replaced the alternator a few months back. Then the coil went. replaced. a month later coil went again. replaced. a month later coil went again. have replaced coil, coil wires, distributor, fuel pump and filter, dist. cap and rotor, coil. now... burns coil before it even starts...twice. Getting very expensive! Can you help?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The ignition module in the dist probably does not shut off completely and always a low voltage to the coil overheating it. My guess. There are specific tests for this listed in most manuals requiring a simple volt meter.
  • my blazer (2000) has a weird problem. It's like the it can
    t shift gears. It has no power. I hit the gas all the way and all it gives me is like 20 mph. That Service light has come on again for ny vehicle. they first time we had the Alternator replace and it helped. Second time me and my dad replaced the Alternator and it worked again. But this is getting very costly. what should I do? Should I get rid of this car or should I attempt to fix it?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Need to read the code out and post it - most auto stores read for free and most tell you the part that MAY be bad.
    $150 for an alternator is pretty cheap as things go on vehicles. Also is it 4wd and what mileage and what else have you done recently.
  • I am looking for some advise on a problem I am having with my dash board guage lights. I can not see anything on my dash board because it doesn't light up. I have check the fuses and they are ok. Would anyone have any idea what else it could be? This is for a 1993 Chevy Blazer S10. Any help is appreciated.

  • I just got a 2000 GMC Jimmy, SLE. I had it about a week and when I fill it it never goes below 1/2 full. I have about 500+ kilometres on the trip meter and sometimes when I turn it on it goes to empty then the low fuel light comes on. Once I start to drive it goes back to half full.
    I need some direction to look for a cause.
    Thank you for any and all help.
  • Most are simply due to the crappy sender in the tank part of the pump assembly - Delco pump ranges from $300-400 and then have to drop tank to install. My 01 does same type thing randomly so I use the trip odometer to make sure I get gas - I'll fix when I really get pissed at it. You can try to clean the electrical connectors on the output on top of the tank reached by dropping the spare tire and reaching up - tight fit - and make sure the ground is good but my guess is its the sender. A resistive swing arm type.
  • Don't have specifics on this year but first I would look at the headlight switch dimmer knob control and see if that works. If its a digital dash 89-94 range they are known to fail/have faults so google on them and you can get a rebuilt for about $150.
  • This may sound too simple but I have also experienced that problem before, and my cure was to move the light dial from the lowest. The lowest position in the dial totally shuts off any lights on the dash on my 2000 Blazer.
  • My husbands jimmy's check engine light has been on for about 5 months. We now know that the fuel pump is bad because one day it wouldn't start and he tapped the bottom of the tank and then it started. He doesn't have to do this every time. We took it to the shop for an inspection knowing that we would have to get that fixed before they would give the sticker. Any way they found 5 or 6 codes and said it would be $1500.00. AIR (air injection regulator) pump, hoses and check valves. Fuel pump, filter and hoses/lines. Also a CERP belt. Could the fuel pump being bad cause all the other codes? Is it really needing all these parts. I didn't write down the codes the shop gave but i can get them if you need them. Also should we fix this our selves? Also how hard of a job is it?
  • I an not an expert but I just had my Jimmy put on the computer the other day too because my check engine light was on and we were having major problems with it. I was given two codes, one for the O2 sensor and one for the 3-2 shift selinoid in the transmission. After replacing both I was told that the computer was wrong and that the entire transmission is bad and has to be replaced immediately. Two different mechanics told me that the computer doesn't always give the exact answer, it gives a round about answer of what it could be and then the garage/shop tries to narrow it down from there (not sure if that's true or not but that's what the mechanic told me at the time). I would suggest having it put on another computer just in case, there is no point putting out all of that money if it's not the cause (like I just did).
  • Sorry for the slow response I was campimg and yes it did rain of course!
    1. As for the air pump - yes those often fail and their is a pump under the radiator that pumps air into exhuast for 1 min or so on startup and the hose stucks water, the 2 metal check valves fail open and burn the hoses off too, and then their are 2 solenoids and 2 pplastic diaphrams that can get burned.
    2. Fuel pump pressure has to be tested and its 60psi min at start (key on engine off) and 53psi min running. Need a pressure tester on the test rail about $35 from Actron. In the tank and a pain to drop if not setup to do it. Use only a Delco pump as most aftermarkets have had problems and only have a 1 year warranty. Part is $400-500.
    3. Yes, possible that low or fluating fuel pressure cabn cause other codes but need the codes - a P0300 random misfire is one but that has about 6 other possible reasons too.
    4. Serpentine belt is the big "fan" belt that is $25-30 part and then thereare 2 pulleys tha may squeal called the idler (fixed on top) and the flex one called tensioner.
  • The most common problem for this occurance, is your entire Fuel Sending Unit. Theres a float arm that reads OHM's, and well, over time, the metal slide plate inside the tank, on the unit itself goes bad.

    I would recommend a stock DELCO unit, but you can get aftermarket units for fairly cheap.

    Another place you can buy a fuel sending unit is from a guy in florida, who runs a very reputable EBay store. I've bought many S10/Blazer parts from him, and never had any problems. He is a really good guy.

    Heres a link to his store - S10 Warehouse

    Keep in mind, that when you install the new unit, to be very careful with the arm when your putting it back in. THEY ARE VERY SENSITIVE...

    -- Cheers, "KuT" :)
  • Just recently, I installed a new Multi-Blinker/Cruise Switch, and cruise box. I had taken the dash apart to do some deep cleaning, (Radio Removed, Gauge Cluster removed). It all sat out for about 24 hours. When I put it all back together, My Security Light stays lit, the truck turns over, runs for <1sec, then dies. Passlock engaged, disabling the fuel injectors?? Also, None of my courtesy lights are working neither. Checked all fuses and relays, everything checks out ok.

    Could having the radio unplugged for so long, reset the Anti-theft/passlock code? Im lost, and dont know where else to turn..
  • When you turn the key to run the security light should go out after like 5 sec - if it does not passlock maybe activated. If it goes out you have another problem.

    The Passlock Anti-Theft system involves resistor codes which are generated by resistors located in the ignition key cylinder switch. The GM Passlock system uses what is known as a Hall Effect Sensor to send a resistor code to the Passlock module. The resistor code is activated when the ignition key is physically rotated in the ignition switch. Depending on the model of GM vehicle, the actual resistor code is only introduced to the Passlock system when the ignition switch is turned to the ignition on (run) position or only when the ignition switch is turned to the start (crank) position.
  • Thank you for that bit of knowledge, it does help.

    This is also what I learned (Don't know if it will help others)

    When I unplugged the wiring harness from the Multi-Switch/Ignition, I forgot to unhook the battery before doing so. (I swear I took the cables off). With the battery still giving juice, and my taking the harness off, the system took it as "Teft Tampering of the wires", and put the system into Anti-Theft mode. Also, being that I had stuff unplugged so long, there was a communication error, and the system body module had lost some kind of information.

    The dealer diagnosed it, popped 3 codes, and reset everything, and had to "re-teach" the module.

    All being said, the truck runs (yay), and I now have C/C. What I thought would be an easy task, and a fairly cheap one, turned out being nearly $300 after everything was done.

    Meh.. Im just an uneducated 23 year old, learning from his mistakes.
  • thanks a bunch for your comment. We ended up just forking out the money so every things under warranty. We probably could of fixed it for less than half their price but O WELL.
    Lifes a B.

    thanks again
  • I have a 99 Blazer that has 16,500 miles on it. When I start it up the gauges do not work and the engine light is on. If I push in the button for the trip then everything works but all the idiot lights are on. The truck also does not run good when the gauges are not working. The problem happen once before and I took the gauge unit out and made sure the connections were good and then it worked fine for a few weeks. I tried that again and this time nothing. The Blazer ran good before the dash went out.

    Anyone have an idea what to check for?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I would say the main harness is not plugged in all the way behind the gages or the battery/terminals are not allowing 12.6 volts - Blazers act weird at lower voltage (Is the volt gage reading around 14 volts as the alternator is charging?
  • The connect to the gauge unit is good good. Is there another I should look for and where would it be? While checking to see what the volt gauge read, which was over 14 volts. I noticed that the volt gauge and the speedo work. Its the fuel, oil pressure, and the temp don't work. Also the mileage does not lite up.
  • uptownuptown Posts: 2
    i agree it should be a recalled item. this is ridiculous. i am and have been going thru this for a year . now after hurricane. so im sure water had something to do with it. now we had a flood; so htis p0410 is it something i can fix. i am changing the fuel pump and regulator. will this do it. well dad is doing it.!! ha ha
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