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About Beechnut

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  1. Hey all, Fleshing out the floorplan for a 40' x 20' ILF (Independent Living Facility) that will be upstairs in a metal building (40' x 80') on the farm. Basically an apartment with 1 Bed, 1 Bath, Kitchen, and Home Theater. And the latter is what I want to optimize, and build the rest of the 800 sq. ft. floor plan around. I'm thinking a 15' by 20' room. Goals would be a false front stage, acoustically transparent screen and 2 rows of seating. Looking at putting the front stage on the 15' wall so it gives me room to put the false wall in and the first row of seating around the 11' mark, giving me room for a second row. Currently have a full RF7II HT setup. BUT....I'd love to move to K402s up front with some sort of hybrid setup or 2 Jubilees and a Jubscala for the center channel. And, the ability to use the Jubilees for a 2 channel setup in the future. Question: Is a 15' span across the front wall large enough to accommodate 2 Jubilees and a Jubscala? Subwoofer note: Wasn't intending to do an IB setup, but I could be convinced I guess. Was really looking at Dual SVS subs. Not sure if an IB setup would work in this framework.
  2. Day 1 in the books. Went with 2 Cinema F20s for ease of build, cost and smaller cabinet. I did precut all my panels, against the advice of Carl. (I'll get smart by doing stupid....) 1 layout is done and both baffles are cut. Did work out the best way to install the hurricane nuts on some scrap wood so that I'll be prepared for that. I didn't want to crack open a tube of PL, just for those, and have to try to seal it back up until I'm ready to do final assemble. So tomorrow is layout 2, and assemble dry getting all the pocket wholes in place. Thanks for all the inputs!!
  3. Yes. I don't want to skimp if I'm jumping into a big DIY project like this. I can handle the larger cabinets with my setup (hidden behind the entertainment center that has to decorative nick-nack towers on the side). Just want to layout the facts in case someone hast he same question I do. Certainly the F-20 is more budget conscious and has a smaller footprint. What drivers are people recommending for the F-20 recently?
  4. So I'm doing this as I'm trying to decide which DIY subwoofer to go after, as it applies to my lifestyle and restrictions. Leaning lilwrecker right now. I'm going to build 2. My life can accommodate a large cabinet. Once all is said and done...I don't think cost will be that different between a TubaHT, THTLP, F-20, or lilwrecker. Any of these DIYs will need a separate amp. I will have Audyssey XT32 so I don't think I HAVE to have DSP. I'm a long ways from having a final house, so the will be moving with me and need to fit through doors =+) Gotta have a side that is 27" or smaller in my guess to be safe. So again, leaning lilwrecker. (only recently ran into this build or I may have steered away from a THTLP) The 1st post is to help flesh out the vs in the two build. Some more parameters to update would be: Cost for wood Cost for different driver options Cost for recommended amplifiers Estimated Build Time Recommended tools listing etc. More to follow. Appreciate your help and insight.
  6. Thanks for chiming in all. Carl I hear you about the F-20. Honestly I'm still on the fence. Having the plans for the THT and THTLP certainly shows how much simpler the F-20 is to build than the THT versions. More to follow on this. Time to stop being a dreamer and be a do'er. No better way to learn. Regardless, I'll be adding some new tools to the ol' shop. Router being the main one on the list.
  7. Looking at the plans, when you build the width (or height not length) can you go anywhere from 15" = 36"? Idea is to build 2 to flatten out the room response. From what I've gathered, a 72" Long, 18" High, 36" wide should be apples to apples with a 36" x 36" x 36" Tuba HT. Many steer away from the 36" cube of the Tuba HT because they can't get it through the doors in their house...usually some of the interior doors. I'm many years from a final home so the 72" x 18" x 36" THTLP seems good for me as I move around from place to place. Should be able to manage that in any home. I'll be able to either stand them up behind my entertainment center towers, or lay them down, stacked on top of each other, behind it. Could also use them as risers it seems.
  8. Definitely one of those deals you come across often Glad it all worked out.
  9. Youth, Sorry to hear about this. Just recently returned mine for the dreaded HDMI board repair. It went out while I was overseas. Couldn't really walk through all the troubleshooting with the wife over the phone, to come to that conclusion. So she just used TV speakers till I came home. My unit (TX-NR3008) was a refurbished unit when I purchased it in...2010 I think. So 4-5 years on it. Customer service was a quick turn around (like your experience) and almost no cost to me but time. (And fuel cause the nearest fedex shipping center was and hour away) Anyways, throwing my experience into this thread. Still love it for the features and the GUI. It's just very simple to program and navigate. The main reason I stepped up to the 3008 was because of XT32 and it's ability to calibrate 2 subs. As you know, 2 subs is just night and day different so I wanted software that would make that as seemless as possible. Would I go Onkyo again?? It's not out of the realm of possibility. Price point vs features is hard to beat. And I only use it as a pre/pro.
  10. Lol, (You tossed this up as I was typing) Step up to the 828 because it has pre-outs for all 7.2 channels. That's the big difference between the 727.
  11. Here is some advice, Get one with PRE-OUTS for an amp! If you hang around here long enough, you will be tempted into adding an amplifier to your system. If you don't have pre-outs, adding an amp isn't an option, so you will have to buy a new receiver. I just did an install using an Onkyo TX-NR828, 3 RB-81s, 4 RS-52s & 2 SVS PC12NBs. The 3 amps I used are Behringer A500 (which I wouldn't recommend but they are inexpensive). If I A/B'd that model Onkyo vs my own...I bet I couldn't tell a difference. It's $599 on Prime, is 7.2 (w/preouts) and the very excellent Audyssey XT32. http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-NR828-7-2-Channel-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B00CILJB0E/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420215963&sr=1-1&keywords=onkyo+tx-nr828
  12. Bryant, You can get an Onkyo TX-NR828 that has 7.2 preouts and runs Audyssey XT32, which will calibrate two subs, for $599. http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-NR828-7-2-Channel-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B00CILJB0E
  13. Great tip on the PL. And I'll take the advise on NOT pre-cutting the panels. Did you end up doing bracing? Lilmike says he wasn't to worried about it since it was a house speaker (not a PA system) and he used 13 ply plywood. I'd think MDF would more rigid and structurally sound...and less likely to need bracing than ply. Am I off base on that? Don't really desire any wood grain look, (like staining the ply) So I guess material doesn't matter on finish if I'm just going to bondo everything for a smooth foundation.
  14. I'm on the fence of just using a semi-gloss black and urethane finish, or something industrial like duratex.
  15. Carl, Would you recommend MDF over Ply? I do like the idea of no end grains to cover up. Also, I have a Kreg Jig. Would you recommend doing the pocket hole method again? From my other projects, they make some pretty serious joints. How did you clean up the squeeze out of the PL? Sand it off?
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