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  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
    While the waves of Hilton Head Island, Maryland and Southern California are all very different, the same rule of thumb and instincts apply to them all. its all the same. I mean, a point or a reef will break differently, but beach breaks in CA and the east coast really arent that different. Only differences are the swell period, bottom contours etc... But a 3 foot beach break in San Diego, as far as the "takeoff" goes is the same thing as one in South Carolina... Now, what happens to the waves shortly after the take off is very different. Much shorted rides etc, but as far as watching sets and knowing where to take off... Its all the same... You look for a wedge or a shoulder, try and get in early and deep and choose your angle... As far as going left or right, you will know what you are paddling in...

    I just wouldnt put too much though into the whole "we live on the east coast" so its harder to read... On a big day at any CA beach break (Blacks excluded) waves are breaking all over the dang place... Of course if there are sand bars, it will give you a little heads up, but all in all, beach breaks worldwide act about the same when you are eyeing them up.... Like I said, the difference is the overall wave power and length once you get going... That is whats different about the east coast. You have to get your line quick and usually get one or two hits in before it craps out... But every dog has its day and you will get 6-8 turns in...

  2. #52
    Do not do the double paddle at the end of your drop in. It slows you down, and if you misjudge when your last paddle is, you are not in a position to continue paddling. just keep practicing a normal paddling stroke. you will get stronger over time, and more in sync with the waves (most important part), to the point where 2-3 paddles and you're in. If you're paddling furiously you're doing something wrong. Even in bigger waves, if you have the right board, you should get in fine if you are in-sync with the waves. Same with steeper waves. that's all about getting to your feet quickly and getting the board on its rail.

    There is no advice for what you are asking. Just keep putting your time in. And of course, you do get gradually better, BUT the real advances come when things just "click". You'll know it when it happens, and your surfing instantly progresses. Whether its learning to drop in late, taking the high line for speed, or wrapping that roundhouse cutback around, it usually doesn't happen over time. You just do it. And then you say, "oh, that's how to do that", and you move on.

    and not ignoring the PM you sent regarding your first thread, just been too busy with work and stuff at home to respond. will get to it though.