During a recent meal, a dark thought visited Raphael Lunetta. “I was consuming something from far away, a place I’ve not seen, and I thought, ‘So how it is I can trust what I’m eating? How well can the (USDA) regulate what comes from another country?’” As the chef-owner of JiRaffe in Santa Monica, Calif., Lunetta is blessed to have one of the nation’s premier farmers’ markets just blocks from his restaurant. Over the years he’s gotten to know many of the growers whose foods ...

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