Replacing 32 yearold submersible pump

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by bogdan530, May 10, 2010.

  1. bogdan530

    bogdan530 New Member

    Napanoch, NY
    I have a 200â€™ well with a two wire 4â€ Red Jacket submersible pump. I installed it myself thirty two years ago. I have replaced the pressure switch and pressure tank about three times each over the years, but the pump has worked flawlessly. I am thinking of replacing it this summer before it fails.
    I am not sure if it is a Â½ or Â¾ hp pump but it draws 3.8A on 220V supply.
    I have the following questions;
    1- Should I leave it alone until it fails? I live in a high elevation of the Catskill Mountains in New York State and a failure in the winter would be a major problem.
    2- The pitless adaptor and pipe from the well to the house are also thirty two years old. Should these parts also be replaced?
    3- The pump was installed using 1â€ poly pipe with no safety rope. Is there a danger of the pipe breaking when I remove the old pump?
    4- The original pump does not have a torque arrestor. Is it recommended?
    5- The only check valve in the system is right before the pressure tank. Is this correct for modern pumps?
    6- Can you tell the HP of the pump by the 3.8 amp draw? If it is Â½ hp should I upgrade to Â¾? Thank you in advance for answering my questions. B. John
  2. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Lubbock, Texas
    A 1/2 HP should pull 5 amps, and a 3/4 pulls 6.8. Must be a 1/2 HP. They don't make pumps like that anymore. I think you are probably just as likely to have a problem in the winter with a new pump as you are with the old one. If it were me, I wouldn't touch it. I have one that is 28 years old, and I trust it more than a couple of newer pumps I have.

    The o-ring in the pitless will probably need replacing if you mess with it. They usually continue to work fine until you take them apart.

    Unless the pump is stuck, that pipe should be fine.

    32 years without a torque arrestor should tell you that you don't need one.

    There has to be another check on the pump itself. Only a galv tank needs a check valve/schrader valve above ground.
  3. ballvalve

    ballvalve General Engineering Contractor

    northfork, california
    I would keep an eye on the amp draw and test the wires to ground until I saw a change. You did a good install, better not to fool with it now. You could stock the parts you need to redo it all as insurance.
  4. Teets

    Teets CT pump guy

    Watertown, Connecticut
    Is it possible this could be a 1/3 Hp pump? I've run across a couple through the years. I know they don't use motors of this size anymore, but I remember that they consistently pulled 3.7 amps on a 230V configuration.
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