Thanksgiving Help Line Questions and Answers from The New York Times What are some good herb combinations to use when marinating and roasting a turkey? I like sage, rosemary, oregano, thyme — can I use them all together? Should I? Help! In fact, you can use them all together. I have an Italian friend who always gives her turkey a generous sprinkling of that same mix — dried — and it's always delicious. Personally, I tend to stick to fresh thyme and sage for the marinade. I put a fat bunch of each inside the cavity of the bird as well, along with chopped onions and garlic, to perfume the turkey from the inside. Tue, 20 Nov 2012 11:15:44 -0500 I bought my turkey at a butcher and I don't know how much it weighs. Nancy, that is a hurdle, and I'm guessing you don't have a kitchen scale. But do you have an accurate bathroom scale? If your turkey is well wrapped and your scale is clean, I'd start there. (And if the idea of putting your turkey on there is unsettling, you can weigh yourself, then weigh yourself holding the bird, then subtract A from B.) If you don't have a scale of any kind, you will be O.K. as long as you have an oven-safe thermometer and stay vigilant about monitoring the temperature of the turkey as it cooks (<a href="">15 minutes a pound at 325 degrees</a>). The thermometer should read 165 degrees when you insert it in the thickest part of the thigh. Unless your turkey is relatively small (less than 12 pounds), you are looking at a three-hour-minimum cook time. But to be safe, you can start checking earlier. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 14:40:34 -0500 Is it true free-range turkeys have less meat than the store-bought kind? Ah, more attacks from the free-range haters! First, free-range is really a term of art more than science or law. It simply means that the person who grew the turkey supposedly let it roam around outside of a cage. Now, that can mean that the turkey got to peck around inside a big turkey house but never really went outside much, or it can mean it spent months running around in an open field. Or it could be a total marketing gimmick. It pays to know who you are buying a turkey from, right? But overall, the thing that makes the difference is the breed of turkey. Your basic supermarket turkey and many organic or so-called free-range turkeys are broad-breasted whites. Think of them as the Red Delicious apples of turkeys. They are bred to have lots of breast meat and to get big fast. Those are the meaty creatures your gluttonous brothers are thinking about. And one that was raised largely ranging around will have plenty of meat. It will likely taste better, too. The less meaty birds — or at least the birds with less of that traditional big hunk of white breast meat — are from breeds like a bourbon red or a standard bronze. These guys indeed might seem less meaty and the legs and thighs are chewier unless you braise them. Still delicious, but different. And at the end of the day, a 20-pound turkey is still a 20-pound turkey. It's more about the quality and kind of meat that makes up that bird. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 14:11:00 -0500 Can I stuff Jacques Pépin's steamed-and-roasted turkey? Chef Pépin bakes his stuffing separately. I prefer stuffing that is baked separately, too, but to please the stuffed-bird advocates in my family, I stuff the turkey and also bake separate stuffing. I haven't tried stuffing the turkey in this recipe, but it should work as long as you begin with ingredients that are ready to eat (for example, no raw sausage or other uncooked meats). Do not stuff the bird before steaming! Instead, after steaming, drain it well, stuff lightly and then proceed with the roasting. The most important thing to note about roasting a stuffed turkey is that the internal temperature of the stuffing must be brought to at least 165 degrees. For a turkey of about 18 pounds, this may require an additional 30 minutes; check the stuffing's temperature on an instant-read thermometer to be sure. <em>More information about Jacques Pépin's steamed turkey recipe <a href="">can be found here</a>.</em> Thu, 22 Nov 2012 14:10:04 -0500 Can you suggest a vegetarian main course that is also dairy- and gluten-free? <p>You need a gluten-free vegan main course to satisfy everybody's dietary requirements, but it's not always easy. Many gluten-free dishes have dairy or meat. And many dairy-free dishes have gluten.</p> <p>The <a href="">Curried Lentil Squash and Apple Stew</a> and <a href="">Harvest Stuffed Portobello Mushrooms</a> I mentioned <a href="">here</a> are vegan and gluten-free (though you'll need to substitute gluten-free breadcrumbs in the mushrooms). Or you could substitute wild rice for the couscous in the <a href="">Seven-Vegetable Couscous</a> recipe to make it gluten-free. Everyday Happy Herbivore's <a href="">Cajun Cornbread Casserole</a> fits the bill; just make sure your Cajun seasoning and your non-dairy milk substitute don't contain gluten. If your vegetarian guest eats food that contains eggs, you could try Sylvana Nardone's <a href="">Gluten-Free Pumpkin Dumplings With Radicchio</a>, but do a test batch to make sure you like the consistency. You may also want to take a look at some of your favorite vegan dishes and see if they can easily be made gluten-free by substituting gluten-free flour or using a gluten-free grain like quinoa or cornmeal. Be sure to check out Martha Rose Shulman's recent series on <a href="">gluten-free holiday stuffings</a>.</p> Thu, 22 Nov 2012 14:09:39 -0500 What do I need to know to make delicious, not-lumpy mashed potatoes? <p><em><webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly></em></p> <p><strong>Q.</strong> What are the best potatoes for mashing? - J. Lee, Upper West Side<br></p> <p><strong>A.</strong> When it comes to mashed potatoes, which variety to use is a matter of taste. Russets will mash up light and fluffy, but need more fat for flavor. Yukon golds are slightly more dense-fleshed, but have a nice buttery flavor and won't beg for a copious amount of added butter. (A little is nice). Small red potatoes are my last choice to mash. They are the waxiest of the lot, and while that makes for a terrific potato salad in which the potatoes hold their shape, it also makes for a rather heavy, gummy mash. </p> <p><strong>Q.</strong> What is the best way to reheat mashed potatoes? - @jonnyhunter<br></p> <p><strong>A.</strong> It's hard to reheat mashed potatoes because they tend to get sticky as they sit. Mashing at the last minute is your best bet. But a mashed potato casserole, loaded with butter and milk and topped with cheese, is a good choice to make ahead of time because it can be reheated while the turkey rests. To reheat regular mashed potatoes, use the microwave. Cover the bowl of potatoes and reheat at high power, stirring and fluffing the potatoes with a fork every 30 seconds. If you can take them out of the refrigerator and let them come to room temperature before reheating they will heat up most evenly. </p> <!-- more --> <p><strong>Q.</strong> Do you have a recipe for mashed potatoes that you can do the day before that IS NOT loaded with tons of butter, heavy cream or other fat? It's easy to do if you want to add a few sticks of butter and heavy cream, but not so easy without all that. - Linda, New York City</p> <p><strong>A.</strong> Butter and cream are certainly good friends with potatoes, but you can get away with using very small quantities. Better to use a little butter and a little whole milk then substituting skim milk and reduced fat butter-type spread, both in terms of flavor and texture. If you like the tanginess, you could also use low-fat or nonfat Greek yogurt. Make sure your potatoes are warm and your dairy products are at room temperature before mashing.</p> <p><strong>Q.</strong> How do I dance the mashed potato?<br></p> <p><strong>A.</strong> <iframe width="420" height="315" src="" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p> Thu, 22 Nov 2012 14:10:41 -0500 I am interested in cutting apart the turkey to roast it, but still want to have the turkey-infused stuffing. Could I put down a layer of stuffing and then put the turkey pieces on top? Interesting idea. I'm all in favor of cooking the turkey and stuffing together but have never attempted this advanced maneuver. My only concern is that the parts of the turkey that rest on the stuffing might be flabby and undercooked. I'd try to rig up a rack that would lift the turkey parts above the stuffing, letting the juices drip down and allowing the oven's heat to circulate around the meat. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 14:00:46 -0500 Do you have suggestions for turkey glaze? For a tasty glaze, you want a combination of sweet, tangy and spicy elements. If you don't have a recipe, this is a good time to raid the refrigerator door. Sweet can come from maple syrup, honey, brown sugar or even jam. Dijon mustard, hoisin sauce, pomegranate molasses or barbecue sauce add thickness and tartness. A touch of hot sauce or horseradish and plenty of black pepper make it zippy. Adjust the proportions to your taste. Stop basting the turkey for the last 20 minutes of roasting, and brush it a few times with the glaze instead. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 13:53:17 -0500 Can any stuffing recipe be made ahead of time? You haven't said whether you are going to cook the stuffing inside the bird or out, but it's fine to make almost any stuffing a few hours before you'll need it. The important thing is to keep it properly chilled so that bacteria won't have a chance to grow in it. This is especially important if you are using a recipe that includes eggs or seafood (like oysters). Prepare the stuffing and chill it quickly by spreading it thinly on a baking sheet, then cover and refrigerate. Don't put warm stuffing in a deep bowl and directly into the refrigerator. <!-- more --> I don't think you need to hold off on the liquids. Just make the stuffing as you normally would. I always make my corn-bread-chestnut-and-sausage stuffing the day before Thanksgiving because, with our large gatherings, there simply isn't time to make it on Thanksgiving Day. After it's chilled on a large baking sheet, I transfer it to plastic ziplock bags and refrigerate. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 13:47:51 -0500 I'm roasting a local free-range bird, probably about 15 pounds. Are any special steps needed? Well, it's too late for brining! So at this point go slow and low, and add a cup or two of broth to the roasting pan about an hour in. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 14:00:09 -0500 Why does my pie crust keep crumbling when I roll it out? You're probably not adding enough water. The dough needs to be moist enough to roll out without cracking. Flour will absorb different amounts of water, depending on the humidity in the air and the age of the flour. So try adding a little more water the next time you make the dough. Start with a few drops at a time, and when the dough no longer feels crumbly, stop there. Here's a video with more pointers on making pie dough: <webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly> Thu, 22 Nov 2012 13:38:29 -0500 How do you tell when the turkey is done? Just take its temperature: <webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly> Thu, 22 Nov 2012 13:27:24 -0500 Can you suggest a good Tofurky recipe? I passed this question to <a href="">Kathy Freston</a>, the author of several best-selling books on health and wellness: <blockquote> I would never say, "Throw out the Tofurky." I'm a huge believer in enjoying traditions. And eating a Thanksgiving meal that feels like the one we grew up loving (sans the actual bird) seems like a good idea to me. I love meat alternatives, so I would recommend treating your Tofurky (or Gardein turkey or Field Roast Celebration Loaf) exactly as you would turkey breast from an animal. Slice it up and put it on a platter for everyone to dig into, and then pile on the stuffing, cranberry sauce, brussels sprouts, et al. </blockquote> <!-- more --> <blockquote> Here's my favorite stuffing, made by my cousin Kelsey Law from Nashville; it's a veganized version of her grandmother's. Enjoy your (slightly tweaked) tradition. Vegan Corn-Bread Dressing Adapted from Betty Tanner For the corn bread: 1/4 cup vegetable oil 2 cups self-rising cornmeal 1 1/2 cups soy milk (to replace buttermilk) 1 egg substitute (I use Ener-G egg replacement) 1 cup chopped celery 1 large onion, chopped For the dressing: 1/2 package herbed stuffing mix (which is already vegan) 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon pepper 1 teaspoon sage (or to taste) 1 egg substitute (I use Ener-G egg replacement) 2 to 3 cans vegetable broth To make the corn bread: Add 1/4 cup oil to cast iron skillet (I use a 10 1/4-inch seasoned skillet). Place in the oven, and heat oven to 425 degrees. While oven is heating, combine cornmeal, soy milk, egg replacement, celery and onion. Mix thoroughly. Once oven is heated, remove skillet from oven and pour hot oil into the corn-bread mixture. Mix well and pour into the hot skillet. Place back in the oven, and bake until golden brown. Turn out of pan to cool (about 25 minutes). To assemble the dressing: Crumble the corn bread and combine it with the herbed stuffing mix, salt, pepper, sage, egg substitute and vegetable broth. Mixture should be very moist and the consistency of thick batter. Pour into a well-greased 9-by-13-inch pan, and bake at 350 degrees for 55 to 60 minutes, or until set. </blockquote> Thu, 22 Nov 2012 13:33:09 -0500 What if my turkey is frozen solid? <p>You can cook a completely frozen, rock-hard turkey. It just takes longer, about 50 percent longer than a thawed bird of that size.</p> <p>If it's not stuffed, remember to try to get the giblets package out before you start, and if you can't, keep trying as the bird's interior begins to thaw. You can thaw a turkey relatively quickly in cold tap water, but it will still take six hours or longer for a big one.</p> Thu, 22 Nov 2012 12:19:35 -0500 How can I prevent the kids and teenagers from piling their plates high, taking one bite, and abandoning the meal? There are a few approaches you could take. One would be to use smaller plates. Cut very skinny slices of pie. Or have two grown-ups plate the food for everyone from a buffet setup. The platters can then go on the table for second helpings. Dessert could be handled the same way, having one person serve the pie or pies, asking each guest what he or she wants. You might sit the kids down before the meal, explaining that the holiday means being thankful for what you have but that it's important not to waste anything. Or, if you see the kids overloading their plates, you could just face them down with, "Are you really going to eat all of that?" Thu, 22 Nov 2012 12:08:26 -0500 The heating coil in our oven just broke and no one seems to have replacement parts available after 5 p.m. on the night before Thanksgiving. What are we to do? You're in a tough spot, my friend. I gather you've already spent the morning dashing around, frantically trying to find someone who can fix that oven. You don't want all that good food to go to waste. To the extent that you seek guidance from someone who loves cooking but knows close to nothing about repairing kitchen machinery, here are some thoughts: Social custom places Thanksgiving on a Thursday, yes, but there is no reason why you necessarily have to adhere to that. Move the big meal to Friday, if your guests can adjust to it. Or Saturday, even. Use the extra time to track down a heating coil, or to give up and go for a long walk together. Give yourself a break and go out for Thai food tonight. <!-- more --> Then again, if surrender is not your style, let me share an anecdote. Last year, <a href="">a freak blizzard</a> hit my Hudson Valley village (and the rest of the New York area) just before Halloween. In preparation for a wintry evening in the middle of autumn, I decided to roast a chicken. I slid a beautiful, herb-slathered bird into the oven, and a few minutes later our house lost power. The music stopped. The lights went out. The chicken was still raw. The oven had clicked off and I wasn't quite sure how to get it going again with a match. (As I said, I'm not so smart when it comes to mechanical stuff.) I was scared of blowing up the house. We improvised. My wife called up her friend Caomh, who lives a few blocks away. Caomh's house hadn't lost power; her husband, Rick, was out of town on a work assignment. Did she and her brood have any interest in a free dinner of roast chicken and various side dishes? She did indeed. We hauled the cold chicken out of the oven, placed the roasting pan and bags full of vegetables into the back of our station wagon, and drove through the slush to Caomh's house — very slowly and carefully, so that the chicken wouldn't leap out of the pan and start sliding around with the stray basketballs and scooters. I probably don't have to say this, but it was a spectacular meal. It was spectacular because of the spontaneous expression of neighborhood camaraderie that it represented, which, of course, is something that we've been seeing all over the East Coast this year in the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy. So my point is this: maybe you can forget that heating coil for now. Maybe there is a different way to celebrate Thanksgiving. Maybe you've got some friends around the corner who wouldn't mind making room for two turkeys, or maybe there is someone down the street who happens to be alone this year, someone young or someone old, someone who's got a working oven but no dinner plans at all. Maybe that person would love to get a call from you, and maybe this evening you'll find yourself thinking of that broken coil and feeling oddly, unexpectedly grateful. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 11:54:45 -0500 How early is it appropriate to open the bar at a family Thanksgiving lunch? Bob, the clock on my computer says 11:24 a.m. You're telling me the bar isn't open already? Thu, 22 Nov 2012 11:36:23 -0500 I'd prefer to just baste and butter my turkey after I steam it. Do you see any problem with this? I'm assuming you're referring to Jacques Pépin's recipe for <a href="">steamed and roasted turkey</a>, which has a Tabasco-cider glaze. With all due respect to Chef Pépin, if you're more of a baste-and-butterer than a glazer, then, yes, that will work. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 11:29:59 -0500 How long before a cooked turkey starts to cool? Ideally, you wouldn't even think about carving the turkey until 20 minutes after it comes out, giving you a nice round 30 minutes of oven time for the sides. Larger birds will stay hot for 30 or even 40 minutes before carving. (Keep the bird loosely covered with foil so it doesn't cool too much while the juices are settling.) But, we do not live in an ideal world. Often, the rush to the Thanksgiving finish line means that the meal begins when the turkey comes out and there's not much oven time for the sides. <!-- more --> Plan accordingly and use other appliances or the stove top. Don't start with fridge-cold food: Bring the dishes to room temperature an hour before the turkey is done. Many sides, like mashed potatoes, reheat well in the microwave or slow cooker. A double boiler, or a bowl set over boiling water, works for creamed vegetables. Anything with a crust or caramelized top, however, needs to go in the oven, uncovered, to crisp the top. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 11:25:50 -0500 What’s the ideal stock-to-flour ratio for turkey gravy? The ideal roux is 3 parts fat, 2 parts flour by weight (but the more you cook it the less powerful it becomes, so make sure you have plenty if you make a brown roux, which has a nutty, more complex flavor). For the scale-impaired, that would be 1/4 cup flour and 2 tablespoons of fat. Thirty grams of flour cooked with 20 grams of fat will thicken 400 to 500 grams of stock (depending on desired consistency level). Or 1 1/2 to 2 cups of stock if you’re cooking like Grandma. Not a bad thing! My grandma was a great cook. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 11:16:36 -0500 How do you politely tell your host that he or she is over- or under-cooking the turkey? Unless your host asks you directly what you thought of the turkey, you don't say a word. If your host doesn't ask, it means she or he doesn't want to know. Or maybe she already knows it in her heart of hearts. But if she doesn't ask, and I mean ask in a genuine, please-tell-the-truth way, she doesn't want to hear it from you. After all, she did just cook the turkey, and cooking a turkey is hard. Maybe she even stayed up late making pie and cleaning up. She is probably tired. Cut her some slack. <!-- more --> Then next year, before Thanksgiving, you might bring it up in a very gentle way ("Are you using the same recipe for the turkey this year?"). Tread lightly here, unless you don't mind not being invited back. By the way, something to note: the dark meat of some turkeys can look pink even if the turkey has been cooked to a safe temperature (165 degrees). However, if the turkey is red and obviously undercooked in parts and you're fearful for your safety, you can request sticking it back in the oven (maybe under the broiler) for a couple of minutes to finish it off. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 11:22:00 -0500 I have a pre-brined fresh turkey. Do I need to still rinse it off before I start cooking it? You don't need to rinse off your turkey (though it wouldn't hurt). Any bacteria that's on it will be cooked off in the oven. Here's a whole primer on getting the bird ready: <webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly> Thu, 22 Nov 2012 13:29:38 -0500 What is your best recourse if you rip the skin of the bird while dry brining? Skin is all about moisture, so don't use foil to solve your unfortunate problem. But never fear! A bit of neck skin or even a piece of bacon might be able to cover your tear. Secure it with a toothpick or two. I presume it is not a major "Silence of the Lambs" kind of tear, right? Thu, 22 Nov 2012 10:06:49 -0500 What to do when a guest says thanks, then no thanks? If you were talking about a normal dinner party I'd say it's beyond rude. But for Thanksgiving, my attitude is very open, non-judgmental and I’d say be generous and let them do what they wish, assuming your dinner includes other people, not just this couple. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 09:14:01 -0500 Is it ever too late to extend a Thanksgiving invitation? There is no rule and no “proper etiquette” regarding how far in advance invitations should be proffered for Thanksgiving. There have been times that I have invited people on a very last-minute basis, after a conversation in the course of which I might ask what they are doing for Thanksgiving and if they say they have no special plans I might invite them on the spot. I think generosity has to rule; it’s difficult to craft a formal guest list for this holiday, as it is for some others, like Passover, the way one might for a social dinner party. Someone who extends an invitation just two weeks in advance might actually have made a somewhat last-minute decision to have a dinner. Just do what is comfortable for you, and do not assume ulterior motives on the part of others regarding the timing. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 09:12:29 -0500 First time making a pumpkin pie. If I don't have dried beans or pie weights, what else can I use to pre-bake the crust? First, for the novice bakers out there, blind-baking is the term for prebaking a pie crust before the filling is added. (A basic tutorial is <a href="">here</a>.) Blind-baked crusts are used for fillings, like pumpkin or pecan, that will be baked only briefly. For most fruit pies, you do not need to blind-bake the crust, since the crust and the fruit will cook together slowly in the oven. If you don't have pie weights or dried beans, the most effective weight to use is another pie dish, if you have one. Nestle it gently into the crust-lined pan; it should cover both the thin bottom crust and the thick rim. (Don't bother making a fancy fluted rim, if you are using this method, as it will be flattened out by the dish.) If you don't have another pie dish, cover the crust and rim with aluminum foil and fill with rice, popcorn or tiny pasta (messier than dried beans, but equally effective) to prevent the bottom crust from buckling. Make sure your oven is thoroughly hot — 425 degrees — before you put the pan in. What you want is a quick blast of heat that will set the crust. Thu, 22 Nov 2012 09:00:52 -0500 I'm in charge of the cheese board this Thanksgiving. Any great cheese to recommend? I sent this question to Tenaya Darlington, who is perhaps better known as <a href="">Madame Fromage</a>. Here are her suggestions: <blockquote> Since Thanksgiving is an American holiday, why not highlight some artisan cheeses from around the country? Start off with Truffle Tremor from Cypress Grove in California. It's an elegant, very lush goat cheese flecked with truffles, and it's made by one of America's pioneering cheesemakers, Mary Keehn. This is a great cheese to shmear on baguettes alongside flutes of bubbly. Next, pick a great American Cheddar from Wisconsin or Vermont — anything aged for three of four years is sure to be stunning. Cut up some Honeycrisp apples alongside or serve a little chutney or candied nuts to go with it. For fun, add a wedge of Barely Buzzed, a mellow cheese from Utah that is rubbed with ground espresso and lavender. It's a little unusual, but definitely one of the more interesting cheeses coming out of the United States. </blockquote> <!-- more --> <blockquote> To round out the board, look for a good domestic blue, like Oregonzola from Rogue Creamery. It's not too sharp, and it's wonderful with a drizzle of honey and ripe pears or dried figs. Have a deeply dairy Thanksgiving, and remember that cheeses are best eaten at room temperature, so let your wedges relax on the board for an hour before guests cut into them.</blockquote> Wed, 21 Nov 2012 18:49:33 -0500 If I want to invite, say, 20 to 30 people sort of last-minute, what's the best way to do it? Steve, we took your question with a grain of salt the size of <a href="">poor Rhonda's 38-pound turkey</a>. Still, you asked. The short answer: Even if you could get a large bird in the microwave, which you probably can't, don't. Don't deep-fry it. Don't serve milk and don't fashion a turkey statuette out of fun-size Kit Kat bars. But the germ of your question — how can I host a very big Thanksgiving at the very last minute — seemed like one to pose to the followers of <a href="">The New York Times Facebook page</a>. <!-- more --> Many people suggested you hold a potluck. They offered ideas like preparing only fresh turkey breast, which cooks faster than the whole bird. Denise Logan had the idea of roasting Cornish game hens if you couldn't find a fresh turkey at this late hour. (Chicken would also do nicely, of course, but like the hens, you'd have to cook a lot of them.) A few others suggested that you outsource the work by ordering food from a local restaurant or buying prepared food from a store like Costco. Caralyn Farrell put it most succinctly: "Buy everything." Perhaps the best, though, was a plucky suggestion posted by <a href="">The Daily Hookup</a>, a shopping deal Web site: <blockquote> Steve, your plan is so audacious it just might work. I would get on Facebook and create an event called Turkey Feast or Feast of Fools — something exciting. Then, I would call each and every person you plan to invite. I would invent an entertaining and earnest excuse as to why you waited until the last minute. And I would make it a potluck so it's easier for everyone.</blockquote> Wed, 21 Nov 2012 18:06:02 -0500 I made turkey stock after last Thanksgiving and froze it. Is it still good to use, or should I throw it out and start over? Congratulations — I envy you. Extra stock is a great ingredient to have around this week. As long as the stock is (and has remained) frozen solid over the entire year, it is fine to use for cooking. It has probably lost some of the flavor that would make it delicious as a soup, but will still make excellent gravy. Make sure to bring the stock to a full boil as you thaw it. Wed, 21 Nov 2012 17:16:41 -0500 What is a nice orange wine I can bring to the table? What a lovely idea! As you no doubt know, orange wines are so called because of their almost cidery shade, which comes from making a white wine using a technique associated with red wines. Ordinarily, when making white wine, the juice of the grapes is removed almost immediately from the skins so that pigments from the skins do not darken the wine. When making orange wines, however, the juice is allowed to macerate with the skins for a prolonged period, which not only gives the wine a rosy hue but stiffens its structure with tannins. Personally, I love the sand-papery rasp of these wines. Some of the best, though, like the amphorae-fermented wines of Josko Gravner, the succulent wines of Stanko Radikon and the great vitovskas of Vodopivec and Zidarich, all from the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of Italy, are fairly expensive. Some less expensive renditions, like Coenobium from the Monastero Suore Cistercensi, a monastery of Cistercian nuns in Lazio, and Arboreus from Paolo Bea in Umbria, can be quite excellent. Not surprisingly, Giampiero Bea of Paolo Bea oversees the winemaking at the monastery as well. It's best to serve these wines to adventuresome drinkers as they can seem overly austere to the uninitiated. Or simply give everybody a taste and have backup bottles for those who find them to be too much. Wed, 21 Nov 2012 17:06:53 -0500 I'm thinking of cooking a turkey beer-can style on the grill. Is this a good idea? I took this question to the grilling master Steve Raichlen of <a href=""></a>. Warning: You'll need a big can for beer-can turkey. Here's his answer: <blockquote> Beer-can turkey rocks — especially if you have a charcoal grill. For the can, I use a Foster's 1-liter "oil can." It's big enough for an 8- to 12-pound turkey. Depending on your bird, you may need to raise the grill lid. The Weber rotisserie ring for a kettle grill works great for this. Rub the turkey with a barbecue rub (try equal parts salt, pepper, paprika and brown sugar) and smoke it at 325 degrees (2 1/2 hours for a 10-pound bird). I'm not a big fan of spatchcocking or grilling the bird in pieces. There's something important about the ceremony of presenting and carving a whole bird on Thanksgiving.</blockquote> Wed, 21 Nov 2012 17:04:23 -0500 True or false: soaking cut potatoes for several hours makes better mashed potatoes. One of the starch molecules in potatoes is called amylose, which is responsible for making mashed potatoes "gluey" and pasty. Rinsing or soaking cut raw potatoes helps to wash away a very small amount of amylose. But the potatoes must be cut into one-inch pieces to expose enough surface area to wash away any significant amount of amylose. It's not worth the trouble. Washing parboiled or steamed potato pieces removes much more amylose and is worth the trouble. The result is very fluffy mashed potatoes. <!-- more --> (If you decide to try soaking the raw potatoes anyway, they can be soaked in water in the refrigerator for several hours without any safety concerns. Potatoes can be soaked even overnight as long as they are in the refrigerator.) <em>Guy Crosby is the science editor for America’s Test Kitchen and an adjunct associate professor in the department of nutrition at the Harvard School of Public Health.</em> Wed, 21 Nov 2012 15:55:14 -0500 Know any good recipes for gluten-free stuffing? Gluten is a protein found in wheat, rye and barley, and it can also be found in spices and many processed foods, making it a challenge to cook without it. To answer your question, I went to the food writer Silvana Nardone, whose son Isaiah was diagnosed with gluten intolerance three weeks before Thanksgiving. Ms. Nardone was the owner of a bakery and founding editor of the food magazine Every Day With Rachel Ray, so she took on the challenge of gluten-free cooking. She wrote the cookbook “Cooking for Isaiah: Gluten-Free & Dairy-Free Recipes for Easy Delicious Meals.,’’ and offers new gluten-free recipes on her Web site, <a href="">Silvana’s Kitchen</a>. Last year, Ms. Nardone created a <a href="">gluten-free Thanksgiving menu</a> for Well’s Vegetarian Thanksgiving series that included a gluten-free apple-pecan cornbread stuffing. She has also sent us four new recipes made with gluten-free bread. <a href="">This one</a> uses gluten-free bread crumbs to create a traditional stuffing flavored with sage, onion and celery seed. <a href=" ">Mushroom-rye stuffing</a> is made with gluten-free rye bread. <a href="">Sausage, dried cranberry and walnut stuffing</a> will please the meat-eaters at your table. <!-- more --> Ms. Nardone also has a new stuffing-like recipe made with <a href="">gluten-free crackers</a>. If you want the texture of a more traditional stuffing, just double the recipe and bake, uncovered, at 350 degrees in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish until golden brown, about 45 minutes. You could also use gluten-free bread (toasted bread cubes or crumbled bread cubes, coarse breadcrumbs or toasted coarsely crumbled gluten-free cornbread) in equal weight to the gluten-free crackers listed in the recipe. Before you settle on a recipe, consider this advice from Martha Rose Shulman, the editor of The Times's Recipes for Health series, who created <a href="">five recipes for gluten-free stuffing</a> last year. Ms. Shulman notes that what makes stuffing taste like stuffing is not the bread. Sage, thyme, onions and celery are what give stuffing its signature flavor and consistency. So instead of shopping for gluten-free bread to make your stuffing, she suggests substituting gluten-free grains like quinoa and wild rice. This will give you all the flavors you love in a traditional stuffing without the gluten. Wed, 21 Nov 2012 14:59:23 -0500 Is it impolitic to ask my host if the turkey is organic or hormone-free? This is an easy one: yes. It is indeed impolitic — or worse — to inquire about the ingredients of a meal to which you have accepted an invitation. As a guest, it is impolite to refuse foods because they don't meet your standards; you may politely decline food that you are allergic to or simply don't like, especially amidst the hurly-burly of the Thanksgiving table. That's the etiquette piece of the question. If your family eats only organic food because of concerns about pesticides and additives, be assured that there is no evidence that the ingredients of a single meal have any effect. It's the food decisions you make over a decade or a lifetime that count. And if your family has a strict organic-only meat rule for animal welfare reasons, you should offer to bring the turkey — or stay home. Wed, 21 Nov 2012 14:27:02 -0500 How far in advance can I buy a fresh turkey? <p>If the turkey is not vacuum-packed, you can buy it on Tuesday and store it in the refrigerator for two days. If the turkey is vacuum-packed and has a "use by" date, use that as a guide. Generally, a vacuum-packed fresh turkey will keep for three days.</p> Wed, 21 Nov 2012 14:11:15 -0500 Should I throw over Butterball in favor of a local turkey? <p>I say go local, but don't go for the heritage genetics. That way, people will get the taste they love and you won't be out too much money or forced to cook a bird that is a very different creature from a Butterball. Your butcher, the farmers' markets and an expensive, fancy large chain that shall remain nameless (I'm talking to you, Whole Foods) offer a variety of locally grown birds.</p> <p>Most of them will be raised in all the ways your niece wants them to be grown. And they will be broad-breasted whites, which is the breed Butterball uses. That means your family will have the traditional Butterball-style eating experience, but your turkey will probably have been pasture-raised,  so it will taste better. And you can feel better about how it lived before it died. </p> <br /> <!-- more --> <p>And — bonus! — they aren't as expensive as heritage birds like Bourbon Reds or Bronzes. Those birds, by the way, while delicious, are better separated into breast and thigh-leg sections, with each cooked differently. The legs are best braised, for example. The breast can be roasted but takes well to serious brining. Sounds as if  you are not the kind of auntie who wants to go that far for familial love.</p> Wed, 21 Nov 2012 14:10:18 -0500 I have a 38-pound turkey. Any advice on how to cook it? Rhonda, holy cow! You grew a turkey the size of a giant pumpkin! You better have one of those Weber ranch kettles if you're going to grill him, and I don't think you should. (Unless: Do you have a rotisserie? You could suture some bacon to him and go to.) What I'd do is cut him up and cook him in two pans in the oven, as you might a couple of giant casseroles. Mark Bittman has an <a href="">ace recipe for that</a>, and your bird wouldn't be dry at all. Wed, 21 Nov 2012 15:42:30 -0500 If I roast my turkey for 30 minutes at 425 degrees and then lower the heat, how much longer should I cook it? Lisa, thanks for reaching out. Timing includes the first 30 minutes, yes. But the best thing to do — the absolute best thing you can do in roasting what the restaurant people call large-format meats — is to get your hands on an oven-safe thermometer, so you can watch the temperature inside the bird rise and pull it at exactly 165 degrees at the thigh. Drape that baby in tinfoil and let it sit for 30 minutes. Presto: perfect bird. And if not? Head down to <a href="">the Cantab on Mass Ave.</a> and drink three shots of whiskey, then eat it anyway. Wed, 21 Nov 2012 13:34:20 -0500 Can you recommend recipes for wild turkey? Nathan, You should cut the bird into pieces and cook it that way. The time in the oven will be reduced and you have a better chance of not overcooking the breasts, since you can pull them when they're done. Additionally, I'd recommend brining the bird in advance of cooking. Not a lot of fat on those wild animals. Recipe? I'd try Mark Bittman's <a href="">45-minute roast turkey</a>, which we introduced in The Times a decade ago. You'll want to check in on it a lot, since as you say a wild bird has different sizing than a commercial bird. Or look at this nice number from the hunter and chef Jesse Griffiths, down in Texas. Not perfectly Thanksgivingish. But while I haven't tested it, I bet it's pretty damn good. <!-- more --> <strong>Tomato-Braised Turkey Legs</strong> Turkey legs are relatively large and muscular, and need long cooking to break them down. Braising in tomato sauce works for tough cuts because the acid cuts the fatty, sinewy richness and breaks down the muscle structure, too. Substitute rabbit or squirrel, duck or goose legs, or feral hog shoulders. <em>Ingredients</em> - 2 wild turkey leg quarters, 3 to 4 pounds - Kosher salt and freshly grounded pepper - 1/4 cup olive oil - 2 onions, chopped - 4 medium carrots, thickly sliced - 1 teaspoon dried sage - 1 teaspoon fennel seed - 1 cup red wine - Two 28 oz. cans crushed tomatoes - 2 quarts Game Bird Stock, chicken stock, or water - Juice and zest of 1 lemon - 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley 1. Season the turkey legs well with salt and pepper. 2. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-heat and brown the turkey legs well on the skin-side only, about 10 minutes. Transfer the legs to a plate. 3. Add the onions, carrots, sage and fennel and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Add the red wine and cook for another couple of minutes, and then add the tomatoes and stock. Bring to a simmer, return the turkey legs to the pot, and cover. Lower the heat and simmer until very tender, 4 to 5 hours, adding more liquid as needed to keep the turkey legs mostly submerged, and turning the legs periodically. 4. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the lemon juice and zest. Serve over polenta and top with the parsley. <em>Yield:</em> 4 generous servings Wed, 21 Nov 2012 14:08:15 -0500 What about drinks for a dry Thanksgiving? Apple cider is the first thing that comes to mind, being an appropriate seasonal choice. Served hot or cold, it will likely fit in at any Thanksgiving feast. But go for hot. Nothing creates a holiday atmosphere more than a pot of cider, with a cinnamon stick or two thrown in, simmering on the stove. That said, many store-bought ciders can be a bit cloying. For something more bracing, few drinks can cut through a sea of stuffing and mashed potatoes like a shrub, a traditional American drink in which the fruits of the season are preserved in vinegar and then made palatable by the addition of sugar. Historically, they have been enjoyed in nonalcoholic and alcoholic form. In recent years, shrubs have enjoyed a comeback, with mixologists using them in cocktails in place of typical citrus elements like lemon and lime juice. Shrubs are very easy to make, and can be based on whatever fruits are in season. I've made apple shrubs this fall, which turned out very well. Another choice harmonious with the season is cranberries. <!-- more --> Many recipes require a few days as the fruit marinates in the vinegar. But since Thanksgiving is near, I turned to Jennifer Colliau, a San Francisco-area bartender and proprietor of <a href="">Small Hand Foods</a>, a maker of cocktails syrups, for a quicker method. As the process involves heat, she recommended an apple-cranberry shrub that leaned on the apples, which respond better to cooking than do berries: <blockquote>Take 4 cups chopped apples and 1/2 cup cranberries and put in a pot. Add vinegar, white wine or plain white, just to barely cover the fruit. The fruit will exude a lot of juice. Bring to a simmer, cover (the hot vinegar exudes potent fumes), and simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the fruit looks limp and pale. Strain, discarding solids. Measure the volume of liquid you have remaining and add 3/4 of the volume in sugar. So if you have 2 cups of fruited vinegar, add 1 and 1/2 cups sugar. Stir until dissolved and store in the fridge. This can be made several days ahead.</blockquote> To assemble a drink, add four ounces of chilled seltzer to one once of shrub. Wed, 21 Nov 2012 13:38:35 -0500 Jacques Pépin's steamed and roasted turkey recipe says to make cuts between legs and thighs. How wide a cut? <strong>Updated: 4:15 p.m., Nov. 21, 2012</strong> Many readers wondered about where and how deep to make the cuts in Jacques Pépin's <a href="">steamed and roasted turkey</a>. Chef Pépin makes the cut at the joint between the drumstick and the thigh, leaving an incision about 1 1/2 inches wide and deep enough to go to but not through the joint. I used a small sharp knife to make a cut of the same width and 1-inch deep, but my cut was at a different point on the bird — where the thigh meets the breast. Both versions produce delicious turkeys; the idea is to pierce the skin so the steam can more easily get to the dark meat, which takes longer to cook. Here's where I made my incision: <div class="w380 right"><img src="" alt="" /><span class="credit">Photographs by Eva L. Baughman for The New York Times</span> <span class="caption"></span></div> <!-- more --> Here's a closer view from the opposite angle: <div class="w380 right"><img src="" alt="" /><span class="credit"></span> <span class="caption"></span></div> You must also make an incision of the same size at the joint where each wing to the breast: <div class="w380 right"><img src="" alt="" /><span class="credit"></span> <span class="caption"></span></div> <em>More information about Jacques Pépin's steamed turkey recipe <a href="">can be found here</a>.</em> Wed, 21 Nov 2012 16:19:09 -0500 Do you have suggestions for Thanksgiving restaurants in Manhattan? The diligent and hardworking people at Eater scoured Open Table today for last-minute Thanksgiving openings. From <a href="">their list</a>, a few stand out. <a href="">ABC Kitchen</a> would be one to jump on, because it's rarely easy to get into and because, while anybody can roast poultry, not everybody can make good side dishes, and Dan Kluger has some kind of special vegetable ESP going on over there. I'd also be curious to see what Jesse Schenker comes up with over at <a href="">Recette</a>. One of the <a href="">four courses you get</a>: roasted sable with chicken dumpling and root vegetables. Will it taste like Thanksgiving? Not sure, but I'll bet it's delicious. Finally, if you don't particularly care about having a meal that tastes like Norman Rockwell's Thanksgiving, I might investigate Vikas Khanna's <a href="">squash daal and cranberry turkey tikka</a> at <a href="">Junoon</a>. Why should pumpkin pie be the only thing on the table to get the benefit of a few spices? Tue, 20 Nov 2012 17:58:31 -0500 Is it O.K. to just make reservations for Thanksgiving dinner? Please forgive me, <a href="">Sam Sifton</a>. I’m going to risk saying something blasphemous here. If you truly can’t stand cooking, or if seasonal exhaustion has already seeped into your bones and the mere thought of roasting a turkey makes you heave a beaten-down sigh, then by all means don’t feel obliged to cook. My answer to you, Clare, is yes. It’s O.K. And imagine the relief you’ll feel when you decide to give yourself a break. Thanksgiving is about food, but it’s also about family, and if we’re being realistic, we’ll admit that, in certain instances, a laborious fixation on what’s happening in the kitchen can erode one’s engagement with what’s happening in the living room. <!-- more --> I love to cook, but not so many years ago, after months of colliding deadlines, my wife and I made a decision that felt liberating and load-lightening. We called <a href="">Keens</a>, the classic chophouse on West 36th Street in Manhattan, and secured a reservation for four. What a radical concept! We didn’t have to do any work before the meal, and we didn’t have to do any work after the meal. We just showed up late in the afternoon, slipped into a cozy booth with our two children, chowed down on turkey and crab cakes and glazed carrots and candied yams until we were mute and delirious, then wandered back out to the cold, clear night. So, technically speaking, the holiday hadn’t been celebrated in our house. So what? It was Thanksgiving, we were together and, believe me, we were grateful. Why? Three words: no dirty dishes. Tue, 20 Nov 2012 18:01:36 -0500 I am spending my first Thanksgiving away from home — and in Russia, no less! What can I make in a Soviet kitchen? I passed this question to Michael Schwirtz, a reporter for The New York Times who spent a few years in the Moscow bureau. He has also garnered a reputation for being a great home cook. Here's his reply: <blockquote> Since you are in St. Petersburg, it should be pretty simple to make a traditional American Thanksgiving meal, turkey, stuffing and all. I spent four Thanksgivings in Moscow and never had a problem (I moved to New York in May). The turkey can be a little difficult. Most major supermarkets in the capital now sell turkey, but almost never whole birds. I once called the meat department of a supermarket and had it set aside a whole turkey before it was cut into pieces. A better option would be to go to a farmers’ market. (I think they’ve gotten word in Moscow that Americans buy them up, because the prices tend to skyrocket this time of year.) If you’re not a traditionalist, you could try another meat. I once had great success with a rabbit and a goose. I even stuffed them. </blockquote> <!-- more --> <blockquote> Most other traditional ingredients are available, as well: cranberries, pumpkin and obviously potatoes. Those Soviet-era ovens can indeed be tricky. I once singed off all the hair on one arm and part of an eyebrow trying to light one. I’m assuming yours is much smaller than what you’re used to in the United States. I always made several dishes ahead of time. I’ve cooked turkey in some pretty decrepit ovens, and they’ve all come out fine. As with most everything in Russia, you need to be able to improvise. Last year, I crammed about 30 people into my minuscule apartment for Thanksgiving. I had to take the door to the bedroom off its hinges and use it as an extra table. And one of the two turkeys needed to be cooked at a friend’s apartment. That turkey got stuck in traffic on the way over and had to be carried on foot through the snow. But my friends, particularly the Russians, were delighted, especially when we ended the evening with pecan pie and shots of vodka.</blockquote> Tue, 20 Nov 2012 16:38:53 -0500 When roasting a turkey do you recommend using a bake, convection or convection-roast oven? Convection ovens use a fan to move the hot air around, so food cooks about 30 percent faster than it does in a conventional bake oven, which does not have a fan. The lack of a fan in that regular oven means the air does not circulate as well and does not transfer heat to the food as readily as a convection oven does. A convection-roast oven uses the broiler element to heat the air, while a fan adjacent to the broiler element moves the air in one direction. These ovens are recommended for roasting turkeys and large pieces of meat because the meat cooks more quickly and retains more moisture than in a regular bake oven or a convection-bake oven. <!-- more --> A convection-bake oven uses a fan in the back of the oven to move air heated by the bottom or side heating elements, or both, and the heating elements are essentially the same as in a regular bake oven. This type of oven is recommended for making baked goods in open pans. All three types of ovens can be used to roast a delicious, moist turkey as long as the temperature of the turkey is carefully monitored. So, although a convection oven will cook faster, even a bake oven will work if the turkey is cooked to a safe internal temperature of 165 degrees. Tue, 20 Nov 2012 15:51:36 -0500 Is there a good nondairy substitute for butter and sour cream? <div class="w480"><img src="" id="100000001179911" width="480" height="314" alt="Apple Bourbon Bundt Cake." /><span class="credit">Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times</span><p></p><span class="caption">Apple Bourbon Bundt Cake.</span></div> To answer your question, I called on my favorite vegan chef/baker, Chloe Coscarelli, whose <a href="">trademark vegan cupcakes</a> won the Food Network’s “Cupcake Wars.” Ms. Coscarelli said that substituting dairy products in baked goods is easy to do. She took at look at the <a href="">bundt cake recipe</a> you want to make and had some simple suggestions. If all you are trying to do is to eliminate the dairy to make it kosher, not vegan, she suggested substituting either vegan margarine for the butter or 1/2 cup canola oil. For the sour cream, she suggested substituting 3/4 cup canned coconut milk, well mixed before measuring. Even though the recipe already calls for a half lemon, she suggested adding another tablespoon of lemon juice or vinegar for the sour effect. If you want to go a step further and make this recipe vegan, Ms. Coscarelli said you can eliminate the eggs entirely and add a full cup of well-mixed coconut milk and 2 tablespoons of vinegar. The vinegar and the baking soda and powder already in the recipe will bind, and the cake will still rise without the eggs, she said. "I haven't tried this recipe, but that's the general thought process when I'm trying to veganize something,'' she said. <!-- more --> She also offered a few general rules for making dairy substitutes in a recipe. If your recipe calls for milk, you can substitute soy, almond or rice milk in the same amount. Instead of butter, Ms. Coscarelli said, she would substitute 1/2 cup of canola oil for 2 sticks of butter, or Earth Balance buttery spread or a vegan margarine when she makes certain baked goods, mashed potatoes or yams. (Well just published her <a href="">Quick Buttery Biscuit recipe</a>.) If a recipe calls for 1 cup of sour cream but has other liquids (including eggs), you can substitute 1 cup of coconut milk with a splash of vinegar as long as you reduce the other liquids by about 1/4 cup, so your batter doesn't become runny. If you worry that that would diminish other flavors, then use only 3/4 cup of coconut milk instead, as she did in the bundt cake recipe. “This works great in banana bread and other baked goods calling for sour cream,’’ she said. There are also some nondairy sour creams that you can buy at food stores. <a href=""></a> offers a good summary of the products available. If your recipe calls for buttermilk, use a combination of nondairy milk mixed with vinegar or lemon juice (1 cup of nondairy milk to 1 tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice). If you want to make a favorite baked-goods recipe fully vegan, you also need to get rid of the eggs. This is a little trickier, since eggs act as binders in a recipe and also influence how the rising. You can follow Ms. Coscarelli's advice above or read more about it in <a href="">this article</a> on egg substitutes for baking. Sometimes it’s just easier to start with a vegan dessert recipe rather than trying to convert a recipe made with dairy and eggs. My all-time favorite vegan Thanksgiving dessert is Ms. Coscarelli’s vegan <a href="">Chocolate Pumpkin Bread Pudding</a>. None of your guests would ever guess it's vegan. This is an incredibly easy recipe, made with bread, canned organic pumpkin, coconut milk and chocolate pieces. Did I mention it’s delicious? Ms. Coscarelli uses very cute ramekins to make a nice little portion, but I make it in a big casserole dish. She said the recipe serves 14, but at our house it’s more like 4. For more vegan dessert ideas from Ms. Coscarelli (pumpkin tiramisu, spiced crème brûlée, chocolate layer cake and more), go to her <a href="">Web site</a>, or take a look at her book, <a href="">"Chloe's Kitchen."</a> In the <a href="">Well Vegetarian Thanksgiving feature</a>, you’ll also find three recipes for vegan pies, as well as a vegan pie crust, from the book <a href="">"Vegan Pie in the Sky"</a> by Isa Chandra Moskowitz and Terry Hope Romero. Tue, 20 Nov 2012 16:45:01 -0500 Can I slather a turkey in mayonnaise prior to roasting? Is it better to use butter instead? John, it is certainly possible to slather your bird in mayonnaise. I've done this to bluefish with incredible results. But for Thanksgiving, let's not get crazy: butter's the way to go. Tue, 20 Nov 2012 14:22:43 -0500 I'm planning a kosher Thanksgiving. Any good recipes or tips for an elegant but easy meal? A kosher Thanksgiving dinner is not that different from a nonkosher one except that there cannot be any dairy products in the dishes, and no shellfish either. First, a reminder: do not brine a kosher turkey. The turkey is already salted in the koshering process. In place of butter, especially for basting the turkey, consider chicken fat. You might even try to render any fat that you find clinging to the cavity of the turkey. It would be much better than margarine, an ingredient commonly found in kosher cooking. Chicken fat, along with vegetable or chicken stock, would work well in the mashed potatoes, too. And it could be useful for preparing the stuffing. <!-- more --> As for vegetables, you could make a soup to start, using a vegetable purée (pumpkin or cauliflower) thinned with stock. A casserole of various root vegetables rubbed with olive oil, salt and pepper, then roasted for 30 to 40 minutes, makes for an easy, terrific side dish. Scatter herbs like fresh thyme and parsley on it before serving. Many markets now sell small sweet potatoes, about 2 1/2 to 3 inches long, which can be baked whole and simply served that way. Or you could bake them in advance, halve them lengthwise, top them with baby kosher marshmallows (pareve) or homemade meringue, which is lightly sweetened, and briefly reheat them in a hot oven until the marshmallows or meringue have browned. As for dessert, you can bake an apple-cranberry crumble using oil instead of butter for the streusel topping. Serve it with cranberry sorbet. Tue, 20 Nov 2012 17:00:02 -0500 What can I eat for Thanksgiving in a dorm room? Dear Lonely College Student, Not knowing what kind of cooking equipment you may have in the dorm, I'll suggest a turkey shepherd's pie. It requires a hot plate and a microwave (a toaster oven or conventional oven would brown the top). Simmer a turkey leg in water until tender, about 1 hour. Use the cooking liquid to make a medium-thick gravy. Chop the turkey meat and add to the gravy, along with peas and carrots (frozen is fine) and a few chopped mushrooms. Season the mixture well and put it in a baking dish. Spread a thick layer of mashed potatoes over the top, and bake until bubbly. You could also make a festive sort of "chef’s salad" using roasted turkey breast and an assortment of colorful vegetables. Tue, 20 Nov 2012 13:56:59 -0500 Should I baste my turkey? If you are following a traditional <a href="">recipe for roasting turkey</a>, basting helps keep the breast meat from drying out. Before roasting, rub the skin of the turkey with seasonings and a little butter or oil. Lightly drape a piece of cheesecloth over the top of the turkey. Once the turkey begins to release its juices, brush or baste the turkey with the pan juices or any other glaze you wish. The cheesecloth will catch and hold the basting liquid. Remove the cheesecloth about 90 minutes before the turkey is finished so that the top has a chance to brown. If it begins to overbrown, you can always cover it with foil. (And if you don't have cheesecloth on hand, you can just baste the turkey without it. The breast may brown faster, so you almost certainly will have to tent it with foil; start checking about halfway through cooking.) If you follow Jacques Pépin's guide and <a href="">steam your turkey before roasting it</a>, or if you are roasting a brined turkey, it won't need basting to keep the meat moist. But there are other reasons to baste. Chef Pépin's glaze adds flavor to the skin and helps it to brown. For a bronze glow and crisper skin, instead of the glaze, you can brush the skin with butter before roasting, then occasionally brush or baste with the pan drippings. But the best reason to baste is to treat yourself to opening the oven door to admire your handiwork while releasing the tantalizing fragrance of roasting turkey. Tue, 20 Nov 2012 13:06:20 -0500 How do you roast a turkey? <p> Here's how you begin. For more videos with start-to-finish instructions on roasting the bird, <a href=""> go to Diner's Journal » </a></em></p> <webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly> Thu, 22 Nov 2012 14:10:50 -0500 Is it rude to keep food to the side for yourself and not tell anyone about it, if you are the cook? It can't be rude if no one else knows about it; that's the essence of etiquette. The rudeness would intrude only if you can't restrain yourself from letting the guests in on your suffering. Conspicuous hoarding, muttering under your breath, rolling your eyes and the like would be signs of your (apparently deep) well of resentment. That's rude, but quietly assembling a plate for yourself as you serve the meal is not. It's true that being a slow eater (I'm one too) is a disadvantage at the table at gatherings like Thanksgiving. But you are the cook, so you have the advantage in the kitchen. Before the meal is served, you can nab the best bit of turkey, the crusty top of the dressing and spoonfuls of mashed potatoes while they're still hot. And you can do it, as the food writer Laurie Colwin wrote, "without a speck of guilt, because you did all the work." (Her favorite part was the roasted turkey neck.) Like generations of cooks before you, you'll be full by the time the meal is served. And that gives you the edge — extra time to digest before dessert. Tue, 20 Nov 2012 11:07:59 -0500 What type of knife do you recommend for turkey carving? You want a knife with a long, thin blade if you want to be a show-off and carve at the table. But let's not do that. Instead, show off the bird in all its burnished glory, then take it back to the kitchen to break apart. Using a sharp chef's knife, slice down along the breast bone and around to the thigh, then up again to the back of the breast. Carefully remove the breast and then slice it against the grain, in quarter-inch slices. Repeat on the other side. Proceed to dark meat. Serve the whole thing on a warmed platter, dressed with a little bit of hot stock to warm and moisten the meat. Mon, 19 Nov 2012 18:08:08 -0500 How do I not lose my marbles stuck in the car with my father-in-law? For decades there’s been a joke in Buddhist circles: A guy comes back from a retreat and tells his friend that he’s achieved enlightenment. To which his friend replies, “Wait until you have to spend the weekend with your parents.” Thanksgiving, of course, is not only about food. It’s about sharing that food with people who grate on you and push buttons. Buddhists talk about the way we get trapped in the suffering of repeated cycles of existence. Sound familiar? During the holidays, “we fall back into our ruts,” said Lama Surya Das, a 60-year-old Buddhist teacher and author. “People make holiday resolutions: ‘Oh, I’m not going to get mad at Uncle So-and-So, or at my mother or father.’ And how long does that last?” <!-- more --> His tips for breaking out of those crazy-making ruts are based on decades of teaching — and common sense. Sit next to people who annoy you the least. Avoid conversations about religion and politics. Drink in moderation. “Alcohol disinhibits, so people get a little more sloppy and less mindful and say things they wouldn’t,” he said. Try to empathize with family members who drive you bonkers. “I try to see the Buddha in them,” he said. “See the light, the divinity in them. Even in the difficult ones.” And if all else fails, tell yourself what the Buddha figured out: it’s all an illusion. “I quote from the diamond wisdom sutra: This is just like a dream, like a fantasy, like a sitcom,” Lama Surya said. “And then I can laugh much more. You’ve got to keep a sense of humor about these things, and not expect the struggle to end.” Mon, 19 Nov 2012 17:48:54 -0500 Where can I safely store a turkey for two days while brining? Your best bet is to take everything else out of the fridge and store the turkey in there. That way you can be sure the temperature will be low enough. Most condiments and jams will be fine on your counter or outside, if you have outdoor space, and root vegetables will be fine on your counter for a day or two. Or store the contents of your fridge in a cooler. You could also store the turkey in a cooler, but with a turkey you have to worry about keeping the cooler's temperature below 40 degrees. Condiments and vegetables are not so finicky and will be fine with cool, rather than cold. If you do want to use a cooler to store the brining turkey, make sure it is well packed with ice, or better, ice packs. Change the ice as it melts and make sure the temperature in there is sufficiently low. Mon, 19 Nov 2012 17:34:21 -0500 This is our last year in the home our children grew up in; foreclosed. We are all back for one last Thanksgiving in the house. Do we go with the traditional feast or begin anew with a table of first-time treats? This is a question that only you and your family can answer. Why not take a poll and figure out what will please everyone? Mon, 19 Nov 2012 16:55:59 -0500 How long does it take to thaw a frozen turkey? You need to allow 24 hours for every 4 pounds of turkey. A 16-pounder will take 4 days, so start on Monday. Thaw your turkey in the fridge and make sure to put it in a bowl or on a platter because it might drip. Mon, 19 Nov 2012 15:54:56 -0500 How do I prevent my guests from leaving Thanksgiving early to go Black Friday shopping? You don't. You tell them to go whenever they want to, then you eat their pie. Mon, 19 Nov 2012 15:09:28 -0500 What's the difference between stock and broth, and which do I use for dressing and gravy? Stock and broth are more or less the same thing, a mixture of any combination of meats (including poultry or seafood), bones, vegetables or herbs simmered in a large quantity of water, then strained. You can use either stock or broth for keeping dressing moist or as a basis for gravy, but a strong flavor will give you better results. The strength of the flavor depends on how the mixture was prepared: the quantities and proportions of the ingredients, amount of water used, whether the meats or bones or vegetables were roasted before simmering, and how long the mixture was simmered. Chefs rely on stock as an ingredient in itself: the basis for other soups, stews, gravies and sauces, using it instead of water for steaming, even putting it into salad dressings and cocktails. Stock can be weak or strong in flavor, depending on what the chef requires and how much effort is put into making it. The cans or cartons of broth that we see in the markets have a medium-strong flavor that makes them suitable for serving as a finished soup. <!-- more --> When you see a recipe that calls for "stock or broth," what it is really saying is "homemade or canned." Which one you choose depends on your inclinations. Though I keep a supply of homemade stock in my freezer, I often use broth from cans or cartons (usually labeled broth but, confusingly, may also be labeled stock) for my everyday cooking. Canned broth can be simmered to reduce it and strengthen the flavor, if you think it's a bit too weak for your purposes. The best trick to boosting flavor from canned chicken broth is to simmer the bones of a (purchased) roasted chicken in it for an hour. At Thanksgiving, though, I make my own stock. I always roast two turkeys, preparing a small one the day before Thanksgiving. After removing the meat from that turkey (setting it aside for leftover sandwiches), I simmer the bones with herbs and vegetables to make a strongly-flavored stock for my favorite gravy, <a href="">Mark Bittman's Make-Ahead Gravy</a>. If that seems extreme — and perhaps it is — turkey broth/stock from the supermarket will work perfectly well. Mon, 19 Nov 2012 13:47:10 -0500 Do you have a recipe for cornbread stuffing? Why yes, we do. Here's <a href="">a recipe</a>, and this video shows you how to make it: <webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly> Mon, 19 Nov 2012 13:29:03 -0500 What is the best way to defrost a really frozen turkey? Oh my. The image of a turkey submerged in a garbage can of water for a week makes me sad. And I can't help but wonder what the texture of that bird was like, not to mention the bacteria count in the water. So here is my advice about what to do next time. The trick to quickly defrosting a bird of any kind is to remove whatever is in the center (the neck and giblets) as soon as possible. Begin by thawing the turkey in the refrigerator, in its wrappings, for at least a day. Then take it out and rinse it well, making sure that water runs into the cavities as much as possible. Try to pull out whatever is in the breast cavity. If it is solidly frozen, you can run warm (not hot) water into it to melt a bit of the ice. Rinse immediately with cold water, and drain. You may need to return the bird to the refrigerator again (wrap in a large plastic bag) for further thawing before you can clear the center of the bird. Once the neck and giblets are removed, the turkey will thaw very quickly in the refrigerator (or if you are in a hurry, in cold water). Even for a large turkey, the total time for thawing should not take more than a few days at the most. Mon, 19 Nov 2012 11:57:30 -0500 How long can a fresh, uncooked turkey sit out in the car? I assume you're talking about a fresh bird, so as long as your dad is willing to drive in a car with an interior temperature of 40 degrees, the USDA would have no problem with this road trip. (If he lives in Northern Vermont, he should find it comfortable.) Here's <a href="">the agency's page for turkey storage</a>. If that's too chilly for him, putting the bird in a box or cooler lined with ice packs should keep it at a safe temperature for cooking. If the bird is frozen, the same rules apply. It will begin to thaw at 40 degrees so it should be ready to cook by Wednesday, depending on the size. Allow about 1 day for every 4 to 5 pounds of turkey to thaw in the refrigerator. Mon, 19 Nov 2012 10:38:48 -0500 What's the easiest, most delicious dish I can make? First, what do you like to eat? Start there. A <a href="">simple pumpkin pie filling</a> with store-bought crust (either pre-baked or raw rolled dough in the refrigerator case) can certainly qualify and is remarkably easy to prepare. But if even that is too daunting go with a vegetable. Boil some water, salt it, drop in some green beans. After about 7 or 8 minutes, drain them. Mix some oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and a teaspoon or so of Dijon mustard in a bowl, pour it over the beans and toss. Then, when you get to the party take out some sliced almonds and put them on the top. Or shave on some fresh Parmesan. You could even get crazy and toast the almonds in a pan or a toaster oven for a few minutes first. You will have filled your role gracefully, healthfully and with minimum stress. The dish is easy to transport, too, and can be served room temperature. Sun, 18 Nov 2012 15:07:34 -0500 Is it better to roast two small turkeys or one large one? Go ahead, blame the turkey! Actually, it's not really the turkey's fault, that tough bird. I mean, it can be; different turkey genetics mean different levels of tenderness. But really, the problem is a larger bird means more time in the oven and that can dry out a bird, especially if you decide to cook stuffing inside. It's tough to cook a big turkey evenly. I have tried the two-bird thing. I was trying to find out if I could make a heritage bird more tender. It didn't really work. Sometimes, the thighs and legs of a turkey are simply more tender braised, whether the bird is big or small. A small bird, however, can spend less time in the oven so the breast meat stands a better chance at being less dry. The advantage to two small birds is more drumsticks, more delicious, crispy skin and an easier meat-management program. One bird can sit and be kept warm for round two. It is easier to store and handle smaller birds. But roasting space for two birds is a real issue with a regular-size oven. And do not try to cram both birds in one pan. They will not cook evenly and where they touch will be undercooked. It is, in many ways, a question of space and personal preference. If you do go for a bigger bird, consider dry or wet brining to assure a juicier bird. Sun, 18 Nov 2012 11:51:57 -0500 What are some alternatives to a giant whole turkey for a festive meal for two? Braised turkey thighs are really good. <a href="">This is a recipe</a> I'm making today, actually — and you can halve it (or even quarter it). <webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly> Sat, 17 Nov 2012 13:34:19 -0500 How long should I cook my turducken? <p> We <a href="">first gave serious attention to turducken nine years ago</a>, when Amanda Hesser outlined its history and described her travails in preparing one herself. She created what looks like about a 20-pound conglomerate, and cooked it for five or six hours, until it reached 165 degrees at its thickest point. <a href="">Hebert's Specialty Meats</a> in Maurice, La., says its 14- to 16-pound turducken should be cooked at 375 degrees for 4 hours covered and 1 hour uncovered (breastside down). So there are two reference points to use when you hear from your butcher.</p> Fri, 16 Nov 2012 19:45:48 -0500 What can I prepare before the actual day of Thanksgiving? <p>If there is one thing I've learned from my husband's marathon running, it's that strength and stamina alone won't necessarily get you to the finish line. The difference between a good run and an excruciating ordeal is solid planning.</p> <p>Thanksgiving, that marathon of meals, requires the same kind of advance preparation. The more you can do ahead, the happier you'll be on the big day. You should even be able to sit down with your family and relax after the race to the dinner table is done.</p> <p>Here's how to spend the next week, so next Thursday is as enjoyable for you, the cook, as it is for your guests.</p> <!-- more --> <p><strong>SEVEN DAYS AHEAD (THURSDAY!)</strong> If you haven't ordered a turkey yet, do it now.</p> <p><strong>SIX DAYS AHEAD</strong> Start your stuffing. Cube up some nice, crusty bread, spread it out on a baking sheet, and let it dry out for a few days. The drier the bread, the better able it is to absorb all the good seasonings you will be putting in the stuffing. You can also make your cranberry sauce this far ahead (the cooked kind with loads of sugar, that is). If your family recipe is a raw relish, wait until three days ahead. </p> <!-- more --> <p><strong>FIVE DAYS AHEAD</strong> Pie dough time. Toss together what you need, wrap it up and stick it in the fridge. If you've made the dough far ahead and frozen it, now is a good time to take it out of the freezer and let it defrost in the fridge until you are ready to bake (ideally on Thanksgiving morning, but the day before will do, see below). Start buying groceries and produce: sweet potatoes, potatoes, green beans, onions, kale, lettuces, herbs. Stock up now, so you won't have to make too many last-minute trips to the supermarket later.</p> <p><strong>FOUR DAYS AHEAD</strong> The Sunday before the big day, and a golden time for getting things done. Are you making some green bean casserole type dish? Blanch your green beans today. If you're not planning on a casserole, blanch some green beans anyway, then quickly sauté them on Thanksgiving with garlic, sesame oil, chile sauce and soy sauce for a vaguely Asian-inspired dish. Or, sauté the beans with lemon zest, lemon thyme and hazelnuts; or bacon, sage and shallots. Make the gravy. You don't have to wait for the turkey drippings. Just sauté flour and butter into a light brown roux, then whisk in strong turkey or chicken stock. It will keep in the fridge until you need it. Just before serving, pour in all those glorious golden drippings from the roasting pan. If your turkey is frozen, start defrosting it in the refrigerator. Allow a full day for every 5 pounds of fowl (a 20-pounder will need a full four days). If caramelized onions are on the menu for any purpose (to top the green beans or the potatoes, for example), make them on this day.</p> <p><strong>THREE DAYS AHEAD</strong> Make your vinaigrette for the salad, if you're serving one, and prepare the greens. Wash them and dry them well, then wrap them loosely in paper towels, place in a plastic bag and put them in the crisper. They will be fresh and springy on Thanksgiving Day. If you don't wash the greens ahead, you know you'd never get that salad on the table. If you're serving butternut squash, peel, seed and cube it. Then on Thanksgiving, all you have to do is toss it with olive oil, salt and maybe some garam masala (or maple syrup and cayenne if you like) and roast at 425 degrees until golden and caramelized. You can also peel and cut up carrots, rutabaga and beets, and separate cauliflower florets.</p> <p><strong>TWO DAYS AHEAD</strong> Getting anxious? Now the fun part begins: the cooking. You can't make fluffy mashed potatoes this far ahead, but you can make a <a href="">mashed potato casserole</a>, or put together your sweet potato casserole. Cool them, chill them, then bake them just before serving. Make your stuffing with your dried-out bread. You can make the filling for your pumpkin and pecan pies. Ditto for an apple pie if your recipe calls for cooking the apples first (raw apples won't keep). Store everything in the fridge - if you still have any fridge space, that is! If you don't, fill a cooler with ice packs and use it as a secondary fridge. If you plan to brine the turkey, do so on this day. Make sure to keep your brined turkey cold; it needs to be kept at under 40 degrees or bacteria could grow. Another option is simply rubbing salt, pepper and seasonings (herbs, juniper, spices, chili powder) all over the turkey and letting it sit uncovered in the fridge for 24 hours.</p> <p><strong>ONE DAY BEFORE</strong> Bake your pies, if it will stress you out to bake them Thanksgiving morning. Bake them as late in the day as possible. With pie, it's the fresher, the better. If you like having warm biscuits (say, cornmeal sage) straight out of the oven with your turkey, make the dough for them today. They will keep in the fridge overnight, then bake while the turkey is resting. If you haven't done anything from the list above, do it now. You'll finish your cooking marathon with plenty of energy to begin the next one: eating, of course.</p> <p><strong>RELATED RECIPE: <a href="">Mashed Potato Casserole With Sour Cream</a></strong></p> Wed, 21 Nov 2012 13:21:13 -0500 What can diabetics eat at Thanksgiving dinner? <p>With all forms of diabetes, the goal is consistent management of your blood sugar to prevent the long-term damage to nerves, blood vessels and organs that can result from uncontrolled diabetes.</p> <p>When you have Type 2 diabetes, your body does not make enough insulin or is unable to use it well. Overeating, particularly high carbohydrate foods like many of those served at Thanksgiving, will cause your blood sugar to rise. Even in the short-term, this can cause headaches, fatigue and leave you feeling generally lousy. Thanksgiving is just one day, but you will feel better and enjoy the holiday more if you pay attention to what and how much you eat. This doesn't mean you have to miss out on your favorite foods.<br><br>Hopefully, you are working with your doctor or a dietitian and learning about monitoring your blood sugar, counting carbohydrates in foods and staying active. For Thanksgiving, feel free to taste everything, but pay attention to portion size and limit your intake of high-carbohydrate foods. Remember that drinks like alcoholic beverages and eggnog are loaded with sugars, so it's often a good idea to skip these and drink water since the table is likely to be filled with many of your favorite high-carb foods.</p> <p>Many diabetes educators advise patients to use a plate strategy during holiday time. Fill half of your 9-inch plate with nonstarchy vegetables -- this includes salad, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, turnips, carrots and others. (You can find list of nonstarchy vegetables <a href="">here</a>.) Reserve a quarter of your plate for the turkey, but leave off the skin. The remaining quarter of your plate can include dollops of your favorite starchy foods like sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes, stuffing, corn or butternut squash, but don't overdo it and skip the marshmallows. Remember, many of these foods at Thanksgiving are prepared with sugar and cream, so traditional carb counts are probably too low. If you plan to have a small slice of pie for dessert, skip the dinner roll. And when you're finished, take a brisk holiday walk. Regular activity is important for maintaining diabetes control.</p> <p>Finally, if you are taking diabetes medication, it's important that you pay attention to the timing of your meal. Many families eat Thanksgiving dinner at odd hours, so you may need to plan for snacks depending on your medication schedule.</p> <p>The American Diabetes Association offers lots of advice about holiday eating. Read <a href="">"Enjoying Thanksgiving,"</a> and <a href="">"Where Do I Begin,"</a> to help you adjust your eating and enjoy the day.</p> Fri, 16 Nov 2012 19:44:44 -0500 What can I do to lighten up my Thanksgiving dinner? <p>There are various ways to approach this question.</p> <p>If you're talking about the food, it's possible that your crusade is a hopeless one, sort of like striving to snuff out the noise of fireworks on the 4th of July or giving kids homemade agave-nectar granola clusters on Halloween. (If you are in fact the one who happened to make those granola clusters, well, um, cheer up - I'm sure the squirrels really enjoyed them after the kids tossed them in the bushes.)</p> <p>Like it or not, excess is central to the whole holiday gestalt. Theoretically you could do without giblet gravy and cornbread-andouille stuffing and creamed onions, but that's only going to produce forlorn frowns on the faces of relatives who have spent weeks gearing up for a full-throttle Rabelaisian chow-down. You don't want to be remembered in family folklore as the Grinch Who Ruined Thanksgiving.</p> <p>The best approach, ironically, is not to subtract items from the spread, but to add more: Make extra room on the table for a couple of dishes that provide a fresh, light counterpoint to the sodden meat-and-starch extravaganza.</p> <!-- more --> <p>For instance, we can't say enough about <a href="">this autumn salad</a> that Dining contributor David Tanis recently introduced us to. And this <a href="">Kris Carr recipe</a>, which involves wine-pickled onions and shaved apples and fennel, sounds like a fine antidote to bloat.</p> <p>But if, instead, your question has more to do with bringing a breeze of social and mental lightness to the holiday proceedings, we'd like to recommend the "Thin Man" approach. Here's how it works: Moments before your guests arrive, simply start pretending that you're <a href=";feature=related">William Powell</a> and/or <a href="">Myrna Loy</a> in one of those casually witty, dashingly woozy "Thin Man" movies. </p> <p>Pour yourself a brisk glass of Champagne. Better yet, upgrade to a Kir Royale 38. Here's the <a href="">recipe</a> for that. Put on some music, ideally something from the American Songbook phase - Fred Astaire and Oscar Peterson collaborated on <a href="">a few exquisite recordings</a>, and you can't go wrong with Fred Astaire and Oscar Peterson. Just as you can't wrong with <a href="">Melody Gardot</a>, a jazz chanteuse whom you might think of as <a href=";ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1321980830&amp;sr=1-2">an artisanal version of Norah Jones</a>.</p> <p>Now, close your eyes. Take a sip. Listen for the knock on the front door. Yeah, we know, it's so easy for stress and strife to derail dinner and turn the whole occasion into a neighborhood revival of "Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf?"</p> <p>But just remember, your movie is "The Thin Man." You're William Powell. You're Myrna Loy.</p> <p>Do not waver from this. No matter what happens - biscuits are hurled across the table, shots are fired, Uncle Lou starts ranting about Occupy Wall Street - just keep quipping and sipping as though you've been beamed in from an elegantly chaotic cocktail party in 1934.</p> <p>Later, your therapist will refer to this as a cinematic form of "denial," but so what? It works. You'll have fun. And to borrow from the Gershwins, they can't take that away from you.</p> Fri, 16 Nov 2012 19:49:24 -0500 I'm a vegetarian. Can I bring a dish to dinner that's just for me? I think you should broach this subject with your mother-in-law to be. There should be no problem in your bringing a veggie side dish. Stuffed acorn squash couldn't be more appropriate for Thanksgiving, but you do not want to be in a situation where you are eating something that others might want to try. I suggest you plan to bring enough of those for everyone too. If you stuff halves, you can cut each in half again and count on a quarter squash for each guest plus a few extra pieces for yourself. Bring enough squash and, depending on what else is on the menu, you might not even have to bother with the veggie side dish. Fri, 16 Nov 2012 18:22:08 -0500 My family will be meeting my boyfriend's family for the first time. How can I make sure it goes well? That's easy. A martini. Actually, a nice aperitif — a low-alcohol sparkling wine like prosecco, or even sparkling hard cider — would work wonders. Non-alcoholic sparkling cider served in stem glasses can be served to the children. Another approach, not new but something that will bring a table together, is to go around at the start of the dinner and ask each person to mention something for which he or she is thankful. Mon, 19 Nov 2012 11:03:38 -0500 I'm preparing the traditional side dishes the weekend before the holiday. Is it O.K. to freeze them? You're better off not freezing. Cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, candied sweet potatoes, stuffing, salad dressing, pumpkin cheesecake and roasted root vegetables can all be made four or five days ahead (meaning the Saturday and Sunday before Thanksgiving) and kept in the fridge. Freezing them will just degrade their textures. Then you can reheat whatever you want to serve hot in the microwave and/or oven before serving. Stuffing will benefit from a quick broil before serving to crisp the top (add a little extra butter or oil before crisping). Fri, 16 Nov 2012 17:19:34 -0500 How far ahead can I bake pumpkin pies, and how do I store them? You can bake your <a href="">pumpkin pies</a> a month in advance and freeze them. Oops — you don't have a month. A week in advance then. Or even two days if refrigerator space is tight. If they are baked Thursday morning, they can sit out on the counter. But since a pumpkin pie has a moist filling, consider a graham cracker or nut crust instead of traditional pastry, as it will be less likely to become soggy. A bit of last-minute oven-warming won't hurt. Tue, 20 Nov 2012 10:25:13 -0500 How does being at high elevation change the timing for steaming a turkey? As you undoubtedly know, the boiling point of water is lower at higher altitudes, boiling at 212 degrees at sea level, and 201 degrees at 6,000 feet. For help in determining how this will affect steaming and roasting a turkey, I spoke to Dr. Marisa Bunning, assistant professor at Colorado State University, and a specialist in food safety. She explained that, depending on the size and density of the turkey that is being steamed, it may require a quarter more cooking time than suggested in a standard recipe. For the 16- to 18-pound turkey <a href="">in Jacques Pépin's recipe</a>, she recommends allowing 10 to 15 more minutes, or about 1 hour total for steaming. Because roasting involves dry heat, variations in altitude don't require adjusting oven temperatures and won't make a significant difference in roasting time. Fri, 16 Nov 2012 15:58:04 -0500 What is an appropriate gift to bring for a Friends-Giving? The classic gift at a friends-only Thanksgiving is the same as for a family Thanksgiving (or any dinner one's invited to, for that matter): a bottle of wine. I find the Loire Valley's light cabernet franc-based reds and complex chenin blanks work very well at the varied Thanksgiving table. Something from a top Beaujolais vintner, like Morgon or Domaine des Terres Dorées, is a good choice as well. My personal go-to Thanksgiving wine is a ruche, an obscure red grape that is grown in northern Italy. Light-bodied, nicely acidic, spicy and floral, it's always made great friends with my turkey. Luca Ferraris and Crivelli are two good producers. All of the above choices share the double advantages of being generally low in cost and low in alcohol content. Heavy, alcoholic wines are not matches for a ponderous holiday feast. If you'd like to be a little more original, you may want to consider bringing a bottle of hard cider. Apples are one of the fruits of the season, and New England cider is enjoying a renaissance right now. The Doc's line ciders, from Warwick, N.Y., are good and easily found. The Farnum Hill ciders from New Hampshire are also excellent. If you'd rather not bring alcohol, dessert is another traditional area where guest contributions are welcome. But check first; often the host has the pie front covered. Fri, 16 Nov 2012 15:41:52 -0500 At what age does one graduate from the 'kids table'? I have fond memories of sitting at the kids’ table with my siblings and cousins in the 1970s. I remember thinking: “Hey, this is where the action is! All the grown-ups are stuck over there in somberville, <a href="">arguing about Richard Nixon</a>, while we get to joke around and catapult creamed onions at each other with spoons!” If the parental objective was to cluster all the juvenile chaos in a suppertime sandbox, I was cool with that. But I also remember getting to a stage, probably at around 12 years old, when I wanted to advance to the main table. And that’s the thing: I suspect the kids might be the first ones to tell you that they don’t want to be cordoned off with kids anymore. If someone looks sullen and bored at the kids’ table, that’s a good sign that they’ve outgrown Turkey Time for Tots, and the time has come for them to look sullen and bored while passing the cranberry sauce to Aunt Esther. That said, you might consider a different way of thinking about the whole matter. We sent your question along to Phyllis Grant, whose popular blog, <a href="">Dash and Bella</a>, encourages parents to engage their offspring in the adventure of cooking and eating. (The blog is named after her two children.) At Thanksgiving, it turns out, Ms. Grant opposes the idea of age-based segregation. <!-- more --> Here is what she had to say: <blockquote> My short answer is: I don't believe in kids' tables on Thanksgiving. Let me back up. I'm all for feeding my kids an early dinner of mac and cheese at the kitchen counter and then having a romantic dinner with my husband watching "Homeland." But on Thanksgiving? I don't believe in kid food, kid tables or kid anything. In my house, the cooking of the meal is just as important as the final act of sitting down to eat it. Somehow it doesn't seem right to ask my kids to sit at a separate table when they've peeled the potatoes, shoved the butter under the turkey's skin and designed the tablescape (seriously, my daughter does this way better than Sandra Lee). But I suppose it depends on the size of the gathering. Too many children in the kitchen might cause you to bust out the wine at 11 a.m. and go in search of earplugs. But a handful of helpful little sprites can make the whole day quite festive. So if you have a big group of kids and they're into cooking, have them help out in the kitchen in shifts. And then have all of them join you at the table so that they can see the fruits of their labors. Just excuse them early to go watch a movie so you old folks can talk about Petraeus-gate and not just the latest "Twilight" movie and the gnarliness of Brussels sprouts. </blockquote> Fri, 16 Nov 2012 19:48:52 -0500 I'm a Brit, and this is my first Thanksgiving. What do I do? Transcripts of the Bill of Rights are <a href="">easy to find online</a>. But it’s likely that you’re just experiencing a twinge of outsider’s anxiety about this curious holiday, with its historical seesawing between piety and gluttony. (Welcome to America!) That’s understandable. When he first moved to the United States about 12 years ago, “the whole Thanksgiving thing was a little foreign to me,” Paul Liebrandt, the masterful British-born chef at <a href="">Corton in TriBeCa</a>, told me over the phone. “I thought it was a month too early to be eating turkey.” By now, he treats his team at Corton to a full-on Thanksgiving feast together. There are sweet potatoes with whipped marshmallow cream. There are cranberries stewed with sugar, bay leaf, cinnamon and vanilla. Mr. Liebrandt makes the dressing with country bread — “toasted with a little bit of turkey fat and butter and sage,” he said. In case you can’t tell yet, the man sees no reason to resist. “I love Thanksgiving, it’s fantastic,” Mr. Liebrandt said. “It’s nothing to be afraid of at all. Embrace it. Embrace your new home.” <a href="">Ben Schott</a>, the man behind “Schott’s Original Miscellany,” a veritable “London Calling” of glorious trivia, couldn’t agree more. “I say, old bean, let's not over-think this,” Mr. Schott responded in an e-mail when we presented him with your inquiry. “Thanksgiving may be a curiously multifaceted holiday, combining harvest festival, Pilgrim testimony, Civil War tension and secular excess. But its essence lies in three gloriously unambiguous Fs: Family, Food and Football.” Fri, 16 Nov 2012 13:58:50 -0500 If I decide to steam my turkey, can I still brine it? I don't think it's necessary, but the brining seasons the turkey and some people like the flavoring. It will be fine. Fri, 16 Nov 2012 13:35:02 -0500 How do I properly smoke a turkey? Smoking a turkey is a great activity for home cooks who long to cook for a crowd but have no real interest in interacting with one during the cooking process, and who thrill to the chill of being outside with the grill. The process, in a standard large-size charcoal kettle grill, is relatively simple. (Steven Raichlen gave us <a href="">a recipe</a> back in 2004.) You create two small mounds of charcoal on either side of a disposable aluminum dripping pan, and you light them. Then you put a bird on a grill on top of the pan, handfuls of soaked wood chips on the glowing coals, and plop the top on the grill with the vents open about 1/4 inch. For a 10-pound turkey (much larger and you won't be able to put the top on the grill), you should be done in about three hours. Baste with melted butter on the hour, when you add more wood chips and perhaps a piece of charcoal or two to the fire. Fri, 16 Nov 2012 13:28:04 -0500 Can I make Jacques Pépin's steamed and roasted turkey recipe in two stages? Yes, just refrigerate it overnight. It may brown even better because the skin will have had a chance to dry out. Fri, 16 Nov 2012 11:22:51 -0500 How do you adjust the Jacques Pépin steamed turkey recipe for a larger or smaller bird? That is hard to say. <a href="">The recipe</a> calls for a 16- to 18-pound turkey. I would say that for every additional five pounds, steam it five minutes more and roast it about 30 minute more; for a smaller turkey, say 10 to 12 pounds, steam it five minutes less and shorten the roasting time too. It's not an exact science, so be sure to check with a meat thermometer to be sure the turkey is done. Fri, 16 Nov 2012 11:18:38 -0500 Can I make turkey in a microwave? <em>No. </em> Mr. Bond, you may know a lot about martinis, seduction, miniature weaponry, expert tailoring and the complexities of international espionage, but when it comes to Thanksgiving you appear to be a clueless piker. This surprises me, Mr. Bond. For so many years I thought you knew everything. I mean, can a person cook a turkey in a microwave? Is there a way? Perhaps, Mr. Bond, perhaps. But I'm not going to track it down for you. Because while this might be difficult to understand for a man who is always jumping out of airplanes and racing motorcycles through densely packed Bangkok marketplaces while a voluptuous double agent digs her fingernails into his abs, Thanksgiving should be about slowing down. The point is not to cook the turkey (or the rest of the meal, for that matter) quickly. The point is to cook it well. Steam it, roast it, smoke it, deep-fry it. Choose whichever method appeals to you, Mr. Bond, but please, try to take your time. Pour a glass of wine. Baste the skin of the bird with some melted butter. Deep breaths, Mr. Bond. Pretend you're cooking that turkey for the queen — or for Ursula Andress, if necessary. Whatever works. We've always thought of you as such a model of sophistication. You don't want a bloody turkey to change that now, do you? Fri, 16 Nov 2012 14:04:18 -0500 Can you suggest recipes for gluten-free gravy and desserts? <p><em>How about a recipe for gluten-free gravy? — Tracy Mayor, Boston</em></p> <p>Gluten is a protein found in most grains, cereals and breads, as well as many soups, sauces, beverages, spices and marinades, so it can be a challenge to cook without it. Silvana Nardone, creator of <a href="">"Easy Eats,"</a> an online magazine devoted to gluten-free cooking, suggests a gluten-free, flourless <a href="">Mustard Pan Gravy</a>. Even if you don't need to eat gluten-free, you may want to try it. "It's easier to make than regular gravy since there's no need to fuss with a roux,'' says Ms. Nardone.</p> <p>Making a gluten-free dessert that is also kosher, meaning it doesn't contain either gluten or dairy, is slightly more challenging. One solution is to find a favorite vegan dessert (vegan recipes don't contain dairy or animal products), and then figure out how to remove the gluten. And even though many vegan recipes already use dairy-free soy milk or almond milk, it's also important to look for "Kosher pareve" on the label, which certifies that it wasn't packed in the same facility as anything dairy. </p> <p>Ms. Nardone, whose "Cooking for Isaiah" contains gluten-free dishes she created for her son, suggests a kosher, gluten-free <a href="">Pumpkin Pie or her Upside-Down Apple-Granola Crunch</a>. Although most recipes on Easy Eats require a subscription, Ms. Nardone has provided free links to her <a href="">gluten-free gravy and both desserts</a>.</p> <p>We also have a few suggested vegan recipes for you from <a href="">Well's Vegetarian Thanksgiving</a> that can be tweaked to make them gluten-free. Try vegan chef Chloe Coscarelli's <a href="">Pumpkin Tiramisu</a> or <a href="">Chocolate Pumpkin Bread Pudding</a> (both contain coconut milk.) Just substitute gluten-free bread in the bread pudding recipe, and top with a dairy-free whipped topping or a kosher, dairy-free ice cream. (You can find these at most large grocery stores or an organic or kosher foods store). I've made the bread pudding several times with regular bread, and it's absolutely delicious. My Science Times colleague Karen Barrow recently made <a href="">Old-Fashioned Chocolate Pudding Pie</a> from the "Vegan Pie in the Sky" cookbook. (She substituted a kosher pareve soy milk and said it turned out great.) Substitute gluten-free graham crackers for the crust, or make the <a href="">"Easy Eats" gluten-free crust</a> (scroll down page). Or you can buy a gluten-free crust.</p> Fri, 16 Nov 2012 10:57:18 -0500 What's a good entrée for a vegan/vegetarian Thanksgiving? <p>Many vegan diners don't require a main course and are happy to fill their plates with all the delicious vegetable side dishes found on a Thanksgiving table. However, many traditional holiday casseroles and mashed vegetable dishes contain milk, eggs, butter and cream, so they aren't suitable for vegan diners, who eat no animal products.</p> <p>If you want to serve a protein-rich vegan dish that works as a traditional main course, consider a hearty <a href="">Curried Lentil, Squash and Apple Stew</a>, or <a href="">Harvest Stuffed Portobello Mushrooms</a>, filled with savory lentil cashew stuffing and topped off with a sliver of sweet tomato and fresh thyme leaves. Both are from a vegan chef, Chloe Coscarelli. You might also want to try Ms. Coscarelli's <a href="">Roasted Apple, Butternut Squash and Carmelized Onion Pizza</a>, but make sure you prepare enough servings for the non-vegans at the table. A garlic white bean puree replaces traditional tomato sauce and it's delicious. </p> <p>Nava Atlas, author of "Vegan Holiday Kitchen," suggests a <a href="">7-Vegetable Couscous</a>. You should also try her <a href="">Coconut Butternut Squash Soup</a>, made with coconut milk instead of dairy. Melissa Clark recently served a <a href="">Harvest Tart With Pumpkin, Roasted Red Peppers and Olives</a>.</p> <p>If you want to go with a meat substitute, you could try<a href=""> Candle 79's Seitan Piccata</a>, a <a href="">Seitan Roulade</a> or a <a href="">Country "Meatloaf"</a> with gravy. Visit Well's <a href="">interactive recipe collection</a> to see more vegetarian Thanksgiving recipes.</p> Fri, 16 Nov 2012 10:54:47 -0500 What is the traditional or recommended soundtrack for Thanksgiving dinner? The traditional Thanksgiving soundtrack is wind against the windows, the laughter of children and friends, the roar of a fire in its hearth. Which is to say: I generally don't play music during the meal. I play it in the kitchen when I'm cooking and all through the house after the meal, when we're cleaning up: dub and reggae and roots rock and country, loop unto loop with pauses for rap, with pauses for metal. But not during the meal. I think music distracts, or can distract, from your attention to Thanksgiving. This isn't a restaurant meal, after all. It's about conversation, not concerts. But then I live in Brooklyn. You live in Brazil, one of the most musical nations on the planet. What to do there? Simple: Listen to Larry Rohter, a great Times correspondent who counts as one of the world's most experienced South American hands. He was based in Brazil for years. And here's <a href="">his playlist</a>. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 14:41:14 -0500 Which wine should I serve: red or white? By all means both! Thanksgiving is a sort of blank slate meal that does not dictate what sort of wines to serve. It offers plenty of foods and flavors that go beautifully with both whites and reds. So cater to the divergent tastes of your guests and serve both. And since Thanksgiving is a holiday of plenty, make sure you have enough bottles. One per drinking guest is a good formula. You most likely won't finish it all, but you won't run out. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 14:10:01 -0500 If I spatchcock my turkey, how long should I cook it? The exact time depends on the type of pan you are using, how cold your turkey was when you put it in the oven, how many times you opened the oven while cooking, what else you are cooking in the oven along with the bird, if anything, and the breed. It's not an exact science. But your plan is a good one. As a general rule of thumb, I'd suggest you start roasting a bird of any size at 450 for 20 to 25 minutes, until nicely browned, then lower the temperature to 400 degrees and continue to roast until the thickest part of the thigh hits 155 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. My last 14-pounder took just under an hour altogether. A smaller bird will cook more quickly; start checking at 45 minutes for a 12-pounder, while an 18- to 20-pound bird could take an hour to an hour and 20 minutes. Larger birds may take up to 1 1/2 hours or even longer. If the skin starts to get too dark before you reach the magic temperature, reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 13:30:24 -0500 Do pies need to defrost before they are baked? You can bake both frozen. However, I think it’s better to let them thaw at room temperature, then bake them. I assume that your apple pie has not been baked and that your pumpkin pie shell has to be filled. You will be able to determine your timing and temperature best if the pies are thawed. Actually, you might want to bake the raw, thawed pumpkin pie shell for 15 to 20 minutes, then fill it and bake it with the filling, so the crust will not be soggy. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 13:12:16 -0500 How do I make good pumpkin pie filling? The ultimate pumpkin pie doesn’t come from canned purée, nor does it contain any pumpkin. In this video, I show how to make pumpkin pie — from roasted butternut squash. The flavor is richer, sweeter and fresher than the canned purée, and worth every extra minute it takes to make it. Here's the recipe for <a href="">brandied pumpkin pie</a>. And here’s more information about choosing the <a href="">best winter squash</a> to make pumpkin pie, and a <a href="">video on pie crust basics</a>. <webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly> Thu, 15 Nov 2012 13:11:44 -0500 What are the pros and cons of stuffing the turkey? And how do I do it? <webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly> Thu, 15 Nov 2012 12:54:43 -0500 I love hosting Thanksgiving for a crowd, and I'm organized, but I always get stressed right before. Any tips for relaxing? I love stories about disastrous meals where everyone had a fine time. In my house the story is about the year I learned — minutes before guests arrived — that stuffing potato peelings into a garbage disposal will clog the kitchen sinks and dishwasher, and it can still be a wonderful holiday. Since you are pregnant, this could be a good time to begin a new tradition: letting your guests contribute to the meal. It's a custom that many families follow, and that way everyone shares in the responsibility — and the fun — of assembling the feast. My sister always brings two kinds of cranberry sauce and her incredible apple pie. This year, when a newcomer to our dinner asked what she and her family could bring, I told her the menu and said she should add whatever special food they felt was essential to a Thanksgiving dinner. She was thrilled and is making a sweet potato casserole and pecan pie. You may not need help cooking the meal, but if you aren't the only one responsible for it, you may feel much less anxious about it. <!-- more --> The thing to remember is that people love to be taken care of and if they are having a good time, won't even notice most flaws. Since you are worrying about whether people will enjoy the food, why not be sure that the meal begins with a sure-fire winner that you can make ahead of time. (For me, that's gravlax with a dill-mustard sauce and thinly-sliced pumpernickel bread.) If you know that arriving guests will be occupied with something really good to eat, it will let you focus on finishing the meal. Even though we have large gatherings at my house (19 coming for Thanksgiving this year), I make a point of asking each person what is their "must-have," and if it's not something they are bringing, I make sure we have it. With attention like that, who could complain? Fri, 16 Nov 2012 19:50:13 -0500 What's the best approach to making cookies ahead of time? Focus on cookies that you can make several days ahead. Spicy gingersnaps, crumbly peanut butter sandies, buttery shortbreads and sturdy oatmeal raisin cookies can all be made five days ahead (store them in tins if you have them, or Ziploc bags if you don't). Chocolate chip cookies and brownies are best made the night before, so avoid these to keep your Wednesday night sanity. If you need to make something with chocolate (and I understand the urge), toffee bars — which are shortbread bars with a layer of melted chocolate on top and a spinkling of nuts over that — are another great option. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 12:09:23 -0500 Do giblets really add enough flavor to gravy to justify overcoming my fear of them? First, a note of explanation for new Thanksgiving cooks: "giblets" is a collective term that includes the heart, liver, and gizzard of a bird; there is no organ called a giblet. If you can bring yourself (or persuade someone else) to chop them up finely, giblets are nothing to be afraid of — and they do make a difference to the gravy. I outsourced your question to Bruce Aidells, veteran carnivore and author of "The Great Meat Cookbook." He uses the heart and liver for gravy, and saves other bits and pieces of the bird to make stock. Here's his answer: <blockquote>"I think they not only add a rich savory flavor to the gravy but wonderful bits of meaty texture as well. I use the neck, gizzard and wing tips to make turkey stock which is then used to make the gravy, along with the defatted pan juices." </blockquote> However, if you prefer a smooth, lighter gravy, you can leave the giblets out and add the heart to the stock. Don't use the liver in the stock; the taste will be too strong. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 12:09:23 -0500 Will I kill my family if I cook the stuffing inside the turkey? Highly unlikely. But, both the Agriculture Department and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommend cooking stuffing separately from the turkey. The concern is that cold or frozen stuffing, sometimes sold already stuffed into packaged birds, won't reach a high enough temperature to be eaten safely. But according to Mary Clingman, a turkey expert and director of the Butterball Turkey Talk-Line, so long as the stuffing is hot when it goes into the turkey, and then removed within two hours after cooking, the company’s microbiologists stand by stuffing inside the cavity. In fact, because hot stuffing raises the temperature of the bird and speeds the cooking, it can produce a slightly juicier turkey. Additionally, she said, stuffing the bird provides a reliable and convenient spot to test for overall doneness. “Right in the center of the bird, when the stuffing hits 165 degrees, that turkey is done,” she said. (Apparently, many callers are mystified when directed to locations like <a href="">“the thickest part of the thigh.”</a>) <!-- more --> Mrs. Clingman herself is a lifelong stuffer, citing the incomparable flavor of stuffing bathed in the juice and fat of a roasting turkey. (But Butterball’s research shows that the anti-stuffing message is getting through: the percentage of cooks who stuff has dropped steeply, from more than 60 percent in 1990 to less than 40 percent today.) In Mrs. Clingman’s house, all the ingredients are cut up the night before (benefit: this is a good way to dry out the bread that will be used) and cooked first thing Thanksgiving morning. Any stuffing that doesn’t fit is baked in a casserole; then she mixes both stuffings together before dinner is served. “It helps keep the fighting down,” she said. Wed, 21 Nov 2012 14:10:54 -0500 How large does a stockpot have to be in order to steam a 16- to 18-pound turkey? When I first read Jacques Pépin's <a href="">steamed turkey recipe</a>, I envisioned I'd need a gargantuan pot. But when I tested the recipe, the 17-pound turkey I used fit very well in my 20-quart enameled canning pot — with room to spare. You really don't need to spend a lot of money on a pot — you can find one for about $20. And you may find just the thing at your hardware store. You can also steam a turkey in a covered roaster, meaning a roasting pan that comes with a tightly fitting lid. The problem with covered roasters is that they tend to be deep, and even when the pan is uncovered a turkey will tend to stew in it instead of roast. If you can find a shallow roaster with a high domed lid to fit over the turkey, that would be ideal, though you may need to adjust the amount of water you use. There should be a little water covering the bottom of the pan at all times or the turkey will stick and burn. You may be tempted to steam by using foil over a roasting pan, but if you try this, use caution. If you tuck the foil inside the pan there won't be a tight seal and the steam will escape. If you have the foil on the outside of the pan, condensation may drip down the outside of the pan. If your pan happens to have a lip, you could try crimping the edge to make a tight seal, but if you do, be careful that the pan doesn't run dry. Tue, 20 Nov 2012 10:29:01 -0500 How long should I cook my turkey? <p>A disclaimer: turkeys vary, and so do home ovens. But generally, you will want to cook an unstuffed turkey for about 15 minutes per pound, at 325 degrees. For an 18-pounder, about four and a half hours would do the trick. Roasting a stuffed bird will lengthen the cooking time. The <a href="">Food Network Web site</a> has a helpful calculator for determining how long your turkey should stay in the oven.</p> <p>To be totally certain the bird is cooked, check its temperature, at the thickest part of the leg, with a meat thermometer starting at least a half-hour before it's supposed to be done. <a href="">Food safety guidelines</a> for cooking turkey dictate that the bird's internal temperature should be at least 165 degrees before serving.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:59 -0500 Should I brine my turkey? <p>I love brining. I brine pork chops for an hour or two before I grill. I brine chickens. And as unwieldy as it is, I brine turkeys if I have the time. Once you brine protein, you get a kind of immunity from dryness and overcooking. Through the magic process of osmosis, the salted water gets into the cells of the turkey. Then, through some other science-y process I understand even less, the cells change structure and, with heat, keep the water inside. That keeps things moist.</p> <p>A good rule is to brine a hour per pound. So a 14-pound turkey needs a brine overnight. And because that water is going into the cells, make sure it tastes like something more than salt. I like to mix in some sugar and add a lot of herbs and peppercorns.</p> <p>If you have a big turkey and not much refrigerator space, use a cooler lined with two plastic garbage sacks. You fill the sacks with turkey and brine, seal it up and dump ice all over it. If you are above the Mason-Dixon line, keep it on the back porch where it's nice and cool. Replenish the ice as needed.</p> <!-- more --> Wed, 21 Nov 2012 14:11:43 -0500 What size turkey should I get to serve 12? A good rule of thumb is to buy a pound of turkey per person. That will get you through Thanksgiving dinner with minimal leftovers. If you relish the post-Thanksgiving turkey sandwich, or if you are the kind of cook who feels compelled to provide enough white and dark meat to please every guest, it's not unreasonable to go up to 1 1/2 pounds per person. To feed more than 20 people, buy two turkeys — or add a ham. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 12:09:23 -0500 I am to bring the turkey to dinner, one hour away. How long can I partially cook it, then finish at my son's house and have it still taste good? I would not partially cook the turkey. I would cook it just a shade underdone, 20 to 30 minutes short of finishing time, say 150 degrees in the thigh meat. Make the gravy at that time. Then I'd cover the turkey with foil and/or put it in an insulated bag to keep warm during the transfer. Put it back in the oven for about 30 minutes at 350 degrees to finish cooking to 160 to 165 degrees and to recrisp the skin. Since it was almost done when you took it out of the oven the first time it really had a chance to rest so you don't need to worry about that part at all. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 12:09:23 -0500 How do I season the turkey if I'm not brining it? <webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly> Thu, 15 Nov 2012 10:17:16 -0500 How much time do I need to reheat vegetables for 30? The ideal reheating temperature really depends on what kind of vegetables you are serving. Soft, tender or creamy vegetables, like sweet potato casserole, mashed potatoes, green bean casserole or sauteed greens (kale, Swiss chard or turnips), want to be reheated covered, at low heat, at about 350 degrees for 20 to 30 minutes. For caramelized vegetables that are small or cut into small pieces — browned Brussels sprouts, mushrooms, roasted squash or carrots — you might try running them under the broiler for a few minutes. Spread the vegetables out on baking sheets and broil just until the brown parts get a little darker. Make sure to take all your vegetables and side dishes out of the fridge at least an hour or two before reheating. This gives them a chance to come to room temperature, which will make them reheat quicker and more evenly. And don't forget about your microwave. If you've got one, use it as a second oven. It is especially good for purees and mashed vegetables, and for rice dishes. Heat on high, covered, for 30 seconds, stir a little, and heat again until warmed through. Wed, 14 Nov 2012 19:52:59 -0500 Is it tacky to bring Tupperware for leftovers? <p>If you know you will be offered them to take home, it is very considerate.</p> Wed, 14 Nov 2012 19:30:11 -0500 Can you recommend a recipe for light, fluffy pumpkin pie? <p> I put your question to Evan Kleiman, who has recently carved out a specialty in pies after a long career in restaurants and journalism. She hosted a Pie-a-Day project on <a href="">her cooking blog</a>, and has just published a cooking app called <a href=";ign-mpt=uo%3D4">Easy as Pie</a>.</p> <p>Here's her advice on adapting the classic recipe: First, pull the evaporated milk out of the recipe. Instead, for a 24-ounce can of pumpkin purée, use 2 cups half-and-half and 1 cup heavy cream (this is for two pies). The texture will be creamier, yet very light. </p> <p>Also, you can further "moussify" the filling by separating the egg whites and yolks. Mix the yolks into the recipe, but beat the whites until stiff and fold them into the mixture once the half-and-half and cream have been added. </p> <p>Then, to tweak the flavor profile, she recommends using an Indian chai mix instead of pumpkin pie spice - both have warm notes, but the chai will have more ginger, cardamom, and sometimes a little coriander and black pepper. Two pies need a minimum of 3 teaspoons spices.</p> Wed, 14 Nov 2012 19:25:01 -0500 Can you recommend a few nice cocktails that use the same spirits? The rococo, nine-ingredient inventions of today's mixologists notwithstanding, you can do surprisingly well, variety-wise, with just a few elixirs. Get yourself a bottle of quality London dry gin and some dry vermouth, then pick up a dozen lemons and limes each (fresh squeezed juice is always best), and you're set for successive rounds of martinis, gimlets, rickeys, fizzes and Collinses. It you're brown spirits people, buy a good rye or bourbon (depending on your tastes) and some sweet vermouth, plus a bottle of Angostura bitters, as well the aforementioned citrus (add an orange or two), and you're in for an evening of manhattans, old fashioneds, whiskey sours and, yes, Collinses. And, don't forget, that vermouth makes a great pre-dinner cocktail on its own and is nothing to be scared of. Furthermore, if somewhere in the back of your bar or kitchen cupboard you find a bottle of Scotch your brother gave you a few years back, and some stray, neglected standbys like Cherry Heering, Cointreau, Bénédictine and grenadine, you're good to go for a few other less famous, but no-less-classic, cocktails, like the ward eight, blood and sand, Bobby Burns and white lady. <!-- more --> Enough possibilities? Get mixing! <strong>Martini </strong> (Gin-vermouth ratios in martinis are highly personal. I prefer 3 or 4 to 1. You may like it drier or wetter. Adjust accordingly.) 3 ounces gin 1 ounce dry vermouth. Stir over ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with an olive or lemon twist. Or both. (It's Thanksgiving!) For a Gibson, garnish with one or two cocktail onions. <strong>Gin Gimlet</strong> 5 ounces gin 1 ounce lime juice Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into two chilled cocktail glasses. Note: Some say this is the one cocktail in which Rose's lime juice must be used. Let your taste be your judge. For a gin rickey, strain into a highball glass full of ice and top with soda water. <!--more--> <strong>Gin Fizz</strong> 3 ounces gin 1 1/2 ounces lemon juice 2 ounces simple syrup. Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into two rocks glasses. Top with soda water. Note: Shake this with an egg white and you've got a silver gin fizz; with an egg yolk, and it's a golden gin fizz. <strong>Collins</strong> 3 ounces gin, rye, bourbon or (if you must) vodka 1 1/2 ounces lemon juice 2 ounces simple syrup Club soda. Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into two highball glasses filled with ice. Top with club soda. <strong> Manhattan</strong> 2 ounces rye or bourbon 1 ounce sweet vermouth 1 dash Angostura bitters Maraschino cherry. Stir the ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with cherry. <strong>Old Fashioned</strong> 1 teaspoon simple syrup 2 dashes Angostura bitters 2 ounces rye or bourbon Twist of orange peel. Place the simple syrup and bitters into the bottom of a rocks glass. (Crushing a sugar cube with the bitters will do as well.) Pour in the whiskey. Add ice and stir. Garnish with thick twist of orange. <strong> Whiskey Sour</strong> 4 ounces rye or bourbon 2 ounces simple syrup 1 1/2 ounces lemon juice Orange slice and maraschino cherry for garnish. Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into two chilled rocks glasses. Garnish with orange slice and cherry. <strong>Vermouth Cocktail</strong> 3 ounces dry vermouth 3 ounces sweet vermouth 4 dashes of Angostura bitters 1 teaspoon of simple syrup. Stir all ingredients over ice and strain into two chilled cocktail glasses. <strong>Blood and Sand</strong> 1 1/2 ounces blended Scotch 1 1/2 ounces Cherry Heering 1 1/2 ounces sweet vermouth 1 1/2 ounces orange juice Maraschino cherry. Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into two chilled cocktail glasses. Garnish with cherry. <strong>Ward Eight</strong> 4 ounces rye or bourbon 1 1/2 ounces orange juice 1 1/2 ounces lemon juice 1 ounce grenadine. Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into two chilled cocktail glasses. Garnish with cherry. <strong>White Lady</strong> 3 ounces gin 1 1/2 ounces lemon juice 2 ounces Cointreau. Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into two chilled cocktail glasses. <strong>Bobby Burns</strong> 2 ounces blended Scotch 1 ounce sweet vermouth 1/4 ounce Bénédictine. Stir over ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. <strong>Simple Syrup</strong> 1 cup sugar Mix sugar with a cup of water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer until the sugar has dissolved. Cool and refrigerate. Mon, 19 Nov 2012 14:06:35 -0500 Why won't my cranberry sauce gel? Here's how you make cranberry sauce that is sure to gel in the fridge. <webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly> Wed, 14 Nov 2012 19:07:23 -0500 Is it O.K. to use paper plates for Thanksgiving dinner? Are you dining outdoors? If not, paper plates are a no-no. Dishes do not take THAT long to wash! Think of the expense of good paper plates — and the trash. Do not demean your crystal and silver! And don’t ask me about paper napkins! Wed, 14 Nov 2012 18:45:58 -0500 What's the right thing to bring to a neighbor's home? <p> Here's what Philip Galanes, who writes the <a href="">Social Q's column</a> for The Times, says:</p> <blockquote> <p>First off, my condolences on the loss of your wife. After 55 years together, this holiday season will probably present many new challenges for you - like celebrating Thanksgiving without her. So, please, take it easy on yourself - and don't push yourself too hard.<br><br>Now, as to your neighbor's invitation (which I take as great testament to you and your wife that your neighbors want to include you in their family holidays), you can't go wrong with a nice bottle of wine. A Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc pairs nicely with Thanksgiving turkey. And in case you or your neighbors don't drink: a good box of chocolates is always a welcome addition to the dessert course.</p> <p>But more important than what you bring, remember: these folks want you there because they like you and value your company. So, relax and try to have a good time, O.K.?</p> </blockquote> Wed, 14 Nov 2012 18:41:13 -0500 Can you safely defrost a turkey at room temperature? It’s hard to give a reliable timetable for thawing turkeys, because it depends on three variables: size of bird, freezer and fridge temperatures. But it takes several days to thaw a large bird in the fridge. Much faster and just as safe is thawing in a cooler or other container of ice water. I wouldn’t eat a large turkey that had been thawed at room temperature. Thorough cooking would kill microbes but not necessarily all the toxins they may have produced. And the skin probably started to go rancid. A year-frozen turkey will probably have suffered freezer burn and developed off flavors. No safety issues as long as you thaw it cold. I’d go ahead and try it but cook a backup as well. Make a mole sauce to disguise the first one. It’s fine to bring the bird partway to room temperature before roasting. My favorite trick is to put bags of ice on the breast, so it stays chilled while the legs warm up. That gives you the temperature difference you want at the end of roasting —150 degrees in the breast, 160-plus in the leg. Wed, 14 Nov 2012 18:39:33 -0500 Please help me find a recipe for yeast rolls that are light and fluffy. You'll find lots of good recipes for yeasted dinner rolls in the cookbook by James Beard called "Beard on Bread," published way back in 1973. Especially good are his <a href="">sweet potato rolls</a> and his <a href="">Parker House rolls</a>. The <a href="">King Arthur Flour Web site</a> gives the old recipe for <a href="">Parker House rolls from Fannie Farmer</a>, which is also very good, and authentically Bostonian. But any recipe for a soft bread dough, like a challah dough, will also work fine. Just roll the dough into 2-ounce balls. Keep an eye on the oven, they'll usually be done in 15 minutes or so. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 12:09:23 -0500 What is the average number of calories a person consumes at Thanksgiving dinner? <div class="w480"><img src="" id="100000001914922" width="480" height="319" alt="" /><p></p><span class="credit">Evan Sung for The New York Times</span></div> The commonly cited statistic is that the average American will consume more than 4,500 calories on Thanksgiving Day alone. That’s <a href="">according to the Calorie Control Council</a>, which represents the people who bring you diet foods. After thinking about how much 4,500 calories really is, I was skeptical of the claim. I decided to create a gluttonous Thanksgiving feast of traditional foods and count the calories along the way (with the help of several online calorie counters). Here’s what I found. Let’s start piling our plate with a generous 6-ounce serving of turkey, with the skin of course. Since dark meat has more calories, we’ll go with 4 ounces of dark meat (206 calories) and 2 ounces of white meat (93 calories). Did I mention we’re eating the crispy skin? Don’t forget the stuffing. I picked a not-so-healthy sausage stuffing (310 calories). Since it’s a holiday, let’s throw caution to the wind and eat lots of starchy, buttery foods. A dinner roll with butter (310 calories) plus two kinds of potatoes – a big serving of mashed sweet-potato casserole made with butter, brown sugar and topped with marshmallows (divide your casserole dish into 8 servings and it will be 300 calories each) plus a half-cup of mashed potatoes with butter and gravy (140 calories). You’re not getting full are you? Let’s add 2/3 cup green bean casserole (110 calories), a dollop of cranberry sauce (about 15 calories), and roasted brussels sprouts because our mother made us eat them (83 calories). And since we don’t want to hurt anybody's feelings, we’ll take one slice each of pumpkin pie (316 calories) and pecan pie (503 calories) with generous dollops of homemade whipped cream on each slice (100 calories). <!-- more --> O.K., now I feel sick. How much have I eaten? The grand total is: 2,486 calories. The point is I had to work pretty hard to finding enough servings of fat-laden, sugary foods to get to about 2,500 calories. Throw in a few glasses of wine, breakfast and some snacks and it’s certainly possible to binge your way to 4,500 calories on Thanksgiving Day, but I’m not convinced it’s as common as the diet food companies would like us to believe. For one thing most people would have a hard time eating that much. After about 1,500 calories in one sitting, the gut releases a hormone that causes nausea. Average stomach capacity is about 8 cups, although it can range from 4 to 12. The average meal takes 1 to 3 hours to leave the stomach. But a large meal can take 8 to 12 hours, depending on the quantity and fat content. Eating too much can lead to indigestion (painful) and flatulence (you probably won’t be invited back). Another reason to pace yourself and avoid a gluttonous binge is that big meals can raise the risk for heart attack, blood clots and gallbladder problems and make you a dangerous, drowsy driver on the way home. Bon Appetit! Tue, 20 Nov 2012 16:54:12 -0500 How long can you keep an uncooked bird before it spoils? If you're thinking of buying a fresh turkey, you'd have to freeze it if you took it home now (a week before the holiday) so clear some space in your freezer before you make the purchase. If you're shopping for a frozen turkey, it will last for up to a year if kept frozen, so no food safety issues there. Your only worry should be making sure you leave enough time to thaw the frozen bird: a large one can take five or six days to thaw in the refrigerator, according to the <a href="">U.S.D.A.'s guidelines</a>. To serve a turkey that's never been frozen, you'll want to buy it on or after the Tuesday of Thanksgiving week. Most farms and specialty butchers that sell fresh birds will only have them available the week of the holiday. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 12:09:23 -0500 What are some easy side dishes that will break up the monotony? We think of the Thanksgiving menu as something all Americans have in common, but there are so many variables it's impossible to say with certainty what constitutes the average menu. Regional tastes can be an influence, but so can family traditions. For many, the holiday just wouldn't be complete without their particular favorites. Recently I asked several of my friends what they remembered about their families' versions of the meal. Their answers only drove home the point. One fellow, who grew up on a small homestead in upstate New York, said: “We had the same thing every year — mashed potatoes, mashed acorn squash and buttered turnips with rum. It all grew on the farm, and no one ever thought of doing anything different.” A San Francisco pal said: “We’re Italian. My aunt always made a huge fritto misto, followed by a big lasagna. Then she served the turkey with all the trimmings, but nobody ate it because we were already stuffed.” <!-- more --> In my family, our cousins insisted on the pickled peaches (made from canned) and the creamed pearl onions, in addition to the herring and chopped liver appetizers. Mostly I remember going back for seconds and thirds of stuffing and gravy, then feeling sorry. Nostalgia being what it is, there does seem to be a lingering craving for marshmallow-topped sweet potatoes and gluey green bean casseroles topped with something crunchy. And maybe that’s O.K. But these days, I would like some side dishes that add interest to the otherwise relatively bland (and unrelentingly rich) Thanksgiving table. I want vegetables so flavorful they could nearly double as condiments. Here is a sampling of dishes that fall into that category, made from common, humble vegetables: carrots, cabbage, cauliflower, turnips, squash. <!--more--> None of them are particularly difficult to prepare, and they can all be made several hours ahead and quickly reheated in the oven, which is important for a Thanksgiving spread. There is also a salad of persimmons and oranges, which provides some sorely needed brightness. These dishes may not be completely traditional, but they will add color and freshness in a most welcome way. The cast of characters is largely familiar. What sets them apart is either how they are cooked, or how they are paired with other ingredients. <strong>THE CAULIFLOWER</strong> Cut it into the tiniest florets possible. This takes a little longer, but the results are worth it. You get something delicate, which is not a word usually associated with this vegetable. Cook the florets briefly, then <a href="">toss them with a little curry-flavored butter</a>, some chives and a squeeze of lime. <strong>THE CARROTS</strong> Use real carrots and peel your own. Which is not to say that those miniature peeled carrots in bags aren’t real, but, convenience aside, they often lack true carrot flavor. Carrots<a href=""> braised with olive oil and garlic</a>, then seasoned with toasted cumin and red pepper, taste good hot or at room temperature. <strong>THE TURNIPS</strong> Turnips are a wonderful and often overlooked root vegetable. <a href="">Lightly browned or caramelized</a> (this concentrates their sweetness), they are even better. Daikon radish is a perfectly acceptable substitute (Chinese turnip cake is made with daikon, after all), and is easier to peel than a pile of small turnips. The technique works for larger turnips, too, or for rutabagas or kohlrabi. <strong>THE CABBAGE</strong> Cabbage, so often cooked to death, can be deeply satisfying. The trick is to blanch it very briefly in salted water before combining it with other flavorful ingredients; <a href="">in this case, onions, apples, celery and caraway</a>. <strong>THE SQUASH</strong> There are many varieties of winter squash and most take well to roasting. The ubiquitous butternut is very good, but consider also kabocha or Hubbard. To offset the sweetness, <a href="">add a little salty pancetta or bacon</a>, along with garlic and fresh sage leaves. <strong>THE PERSIMMONS</strong> Squat, roundish Fuyu persimmons are the ones to use raw in salads. (The pointy Hachiya variety is better ripened to softness for desserts.) Paired with sweet oranges and watercress, they make <a href="">a refreshing autumn salad</a>. They barely need dressing at all, but a little sherry vinegar adds brightness. <strong>RECIPES: <a href="">Cauliflower With Curry Butter</a> <a href="">Braised Carrots with Cumin and Red Pepper</a> <a href="">Caramelized Turnips With Capers, Lemon and Parsley</a> <a href="">Cabbage With Apples, Onions and Caraway</a> <a href="">Roasted Squash With Pancetta and Sage</a> <a href="">Persimmon and Orange Salad</a></strong> Fri, 16 Nov 2012 19:52:35 -0500 Can I tell my family they can't come to dinner? Let's deconstruct this problem. First, about who's coming to your house and who is not: my attitude for this holiday is one of benign acceptance (or maybe bite-the-bullet) so I would let them come if that is what they want to do. Forget about formalities. They should show gratitude but even if they do not, you will have no guilt over the matter. This is family, not friends. Second, the size of your apartment: you must have enough room for them if you invited them in the first place. Just make do. Borrow chairs from neighbors if need be. Third, the food: these days you can buy almost anything you need even at the last minute (except perhaps boned chicken legs stuffed and wrapped in caul fat). Do some extra shopping, even buying prepared food you can reheat from a restaurant if need be. You could suggest that they bring some of the food (never mind if it doesn't fit with your menu). Most importantly, getting worked up over this, even if you are justified, will not affect them. And you will, most likely, feel extreme gratitude when they leave. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 15:59:10 -0500 One of my guests does not drink. What can I substitute for alcohol in recipes? Dr. Harry Haroutunian, physician director of the Betty Ford Center in Rancho Mirage, Calif., says that alcohol flavors in food are indeed potential triggers for a person in recovery. He said many people wrongly believe that it's okay to cook with alcohol because most of the liquid will have evaporated by the time a dish reaches the table. “Alcohol's boiling point is lower than that of water, and many cooks assume that little or none of its potency remains after cooking,’’ said Dr. Haroutunian. “That is simply not true and quite dangerous thinking for anyone in recovery." He says cooked food can retain from 5 to 85 percent of the original alcohol, depending on how the dish was prepared and how much alcohol was used. Fast cooking methods, like flambéing, leave about 75 percent of the alcohol behind, he said. A dish that has been baked or simmered for 15 minutes contains about 40 percent of the original alcohol. After two hours of cooking, roughly 10 percent of the alcohol remains. Non-alcoholic substitutes can be used, but the flavor is likely to be different. For savory recipes Dr. Haroutunian advises using 7/8 cup of broth or juice (apple, tomato or white grape) and 2 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice or vinegar (to mimic the acidity) for each cup of wine called for in the recipe. In desserts, he suggests replacing the wine with fruit juice plus a dash of balsamic vinegar. If a recipe calls for orange liqueur, try frozen orange juice concentrate and the grated zest of fresh orange instead, he advises. If the substitutes don’t sound tasty to you, just switch to a new recipe. And don’t be tempted to use a splash of wine anyway. “A bottle of wine in the kitchen — its feel, smell, taste — are absolutely needless temptations and very risky behaviors for the alcoholic in recovery,’’ said Dr. Haroutunian. “Your family, friends and you will enjoy the holidays much more knowing that you cherish your recovery enough to avoid these dangers." Here's an alcohol-free <a href="">oyster, bread and spinach stuffing recipe</a> from The Times. Wed, 14 Nov 2012 13:53:10 -0500 What can I drink at Thanksgiving besides wine? Water? No, I'm joking. While I personally would always choose to drink wine at Thanksgiving, you also have a universe of wonderful alternatives. Let's start with that emblem of fall, the apple. Is there anything more direct and pure than the fresh, sweet-tart flavor of apple cider, the nonalcoholic variety? I don't mean the clear, pallid mass-market juice that passes for cider in supermarkets, but the dark, cloudy, unfiltered cider that tastes as if you've just pulled the best, juiciest, most bracing apple off a tree and crunched into it. Fresh cider requires the same elements of balance that keep good wine teetering on a fragile point: sweetness of fruit offset by refreshing acidity. It’s great before, during and after, especially if you heat it up. With a half-gallon of cider, toss in a couple of cinnamon sticks and some citrus zest. If you want to get fancy, you can wrap cloves and nutmeg in cheesecloth and immerse it in the cider like a teabag. Simmer for 10 minutes or so and you’re done. Add rum and you have a hot toddy. Personally, I would prefer not to wait until the after-dinner drink for something a little stronger. Hard ciders come in an almost bewildering array of styles, but most are about 5 to 8 percent alcohol, around the strength of lager beers. Many ciders, particularly the American brands, are a little too sweet for my taste. For Thanksgiving, the drier the better. <a title="Web site." href="">West County</a> in the Berkshires makes excellent ciders from a wide range of heritage apples. I especially like the tart, rich cider made from the Redfield. I also like the ciders from <a title="Web site." href="">Farnum Hill</a>, especially the fresh, earthy Extra Dry. If buying American is not essential, my top cider choice would be the Etienne Dupont Cidre Bouché, which is widely sold. The Dupont ciders, from Normandy, are vintage dated. The 2010 is subtle, dry and refreshing, with a suggestion of caramel and an attractive funk. <strong>Q.</strong> But I want beer. Any thoughts on which brews would go with the meal? <strong>A.</strong> Just about any good craft beers will do nicely, if you want to know the truth. But here are some specific suggestions. It’s going to be a long, filling day, so I would start the party with beers that will energize the taste buds. Good pilsners snap you to attention with a lively, bracing bitterness. Lagunitas, Lakefront, Victory and Brooklyn all offer good versions, as do Pilsner Urquell and Jever. An alternative might be a Kölsch, a crisp, clean, refreshing German ale, which I love. American versions are hard to find, but Gaffel and Reissdorf from Germany are fairly easy to find. For the feast itself, you can’t go wrong with mildly hoppy pale ales like Flying Dog or Stoudt’s. I love porters, easy-drinking dark beers with a tangy malt character. Geary’s London Porter is terrific, as is Samuel Smith Taddy Porter from England and Deschutes Black Butte, if you live on the West Coast. A bolder choice would be a Belgian farmhouse ale like Saison Dupont, an airy, spicy brew that is versatile with foods. Even more intrepid would be sour beers, a somewhat vague category of older styles characterized by great acidity. These would include Belgian lambic beers and especially gueuzes, which are incredibly refreshing and complex, and would go beautifully with the feast, though their unexpectedly pungent flavors can be polarizing. Cantillon Gueuze from Belgium epitomizes this style. By the way, I will have a lot to say about sour beers next week. <strong>Q.</strong> What about something with a little more kick to it? <strong>A.</strong> Well, if you want to begin your holiday with a cocktail, why not? Mix yourself a dry martini and enjoy. But for the larger crowd, how about a punch, which you can make in quantity, especially if it’s not too labor intensive and you can do most of the work in advance? A <a href="">Fish House Punch</a> qualifies nicely and has the added attraction of history, as its invention can be traced back to the 1730s and one of America’s oldest men’s clubs. I’ve taken a recipe from “<a href="">The Punch Bowl</a>” by Dan Searing (Sterling Epicure, 2011), which has a good balance of sweet and tart flavors. Will it go with the food? After a couple of glasses of punch, you may not care. <strong>Q.</strong> What about after the meal? <strong>A.</strong> Are you kidding? A pillow will do nicely. But I do recommend one postprandial beverage that is tailor-made for Thanksgiving: amari, the Italian range of digestifs that can do wonders to counter that overstuffed feeling. <a href="">Fernet-Branca</a> is well known, gloriously bitter and surprising refreshing. <a href="">Nonino</a> makes a lighter, slightly sweeter amaro that suggested to David Wondrich, the drinks authority, <a href="">a cocktail of half amaro and half rye whiskey</a>. Sounds ideal after Thanksgiving. Or if needed, simply drink the amaro straight. <strong>COCKTAIL RECIPES: <a href="">The Reanimator</a>, <a href="">Fish House Punch</a></strong> Wed, 14 Nov 2012 13:33:55 -0500 What is the best way to cook butternut squash? <webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly> Wed, 14 Nov 2012 12:51:10 -0500 What's a good recipe for vegetarian gravy? For a vegan gravy (one made without milk or animal products), try <a href="">"Golden Gravy"</a> from the vegan chef <a href="">Chloe Coscarelli</a>. This gravy gets its golden color from nutritional yeast, a staple of the vegan pantry that will add color and a creamy texture to the gravy. You can find it in large grocery stores and organic food stores. Onions, soy sauce, thyme and garlic powder add flavor. offers a similar <a href="">Basic Vegetarian Gravy</a> made with margarine and vegetable stock as well as a <a href="">Vegetarian Mushroom Gravy</a> recipe. I found four completely different recipes from home cooks by searching the website for “vegetarian gravy,” including one thickened with miso, one made with mushrooms and leeks, another made with <a href="">dried mushrooms and thyme</a> and another made with herbs and garbanzo flour. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 16:44:07 -0500 I'm making two turkeys; my oven can only fit one. What's the best non-frying method to cook the other bird? Depending on the size of the turkeys and the oven, your best bet will probably be to cut the legs and thighs off both birds and cook those separately. Braising the dark meat makes it much more tender and can add lots of flavor, since the braising liquid can be seasoned with aromatics like onion, carrots, garlic and celery. (I use the method from Molly Stevens’s cookbook "All About Braising," which involves a relatively small amount of liquid, a tight-fitting lid and very low heat.) As with any sauté-braise dish, you brown the meat first in a deep skillet, then use the fat in the pan to cook the aromatics, then add the liquid and put the meat back in. Simmer very gently on top of the stove until the thigh meat registers 160 to 165 degrees. About the breasts, you now have a decision to make. If both birds can fit in the oven whole once the legs are removed, roast them together as you would roast any turkey; cook until the breast meat is at 155 degrees. Serve the breast at the meal and use the carcass for stock. If your oven is really tiny, cut the breasts from the carcasses and cook them separately. You can roast them quickly over high heat, basting often, or use <a href="">this wonderful recipe</a> from Torrisi Italian Specialties, a New York restaurant famous for perfecting the roast turkey sandwich. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 12:09:23 -0500 What's the best way to time manage so that all the food gets to the table on time and hot? You need an experienced hand in the control tower. Consider the turkey to be Air Force One: it gets priority no matter what. If the oven has two racks, they might be positioned so that some other dish — a casserole or the stuffing — is in a pan that is shallow enough to fit beneath the turkey. It could be cooked or heated at the same temperature as the bird. But watch carefully, because on a lower rack the heat could be more intense. The turkey should come out of the oven a half-hour before it is served, which gives you another crack at the precious heated real estate. Dishes can be timed to bake before the turkey is roasted so they can be finished when the turkey goes in and will only need reheating in that precious half-hour while the turkey rests. You can also plan on dishes to be cooked or reheated on top of the stove and not in the oven. Some side dishes, like the stuffing, including any that was cooked inside the turkey, can easily be heated on top of the stove in a big saute pan. Mashed potatoes do not need the oven at all. Nor do mashed sweet potatoes, and if you want those marshmallows browned on top, invest in a kitchen blowtorch. And the time when dinner is being served is the moment to slip the apple or pecan pie into the oven for warming. Thu, 15 Nov 2012 12:09:23 -0500 What's an updated way to do sweet potatoes? <p>So many restaurant chefs are crushing on root vegetables these days, there is no shortage of new ideas. Follow the example set by the <a href="">North Carolina chef Andrea Reusing</a> and make your sweet potatoes reflect your region: rub with oil, roast at 425 degrees and serve whole, with butter, salt and a local syrup like sorghum, cane or maple.</p> <p>A pile of roasted sweet potato chunks is a beautiful thing: peel one larger potato for every two people and cut into large dice. This can be done beforehand, and the potatoes kept in water overnight. Drain and pat dry before proceeding. Slick with oil and roast, then take them Italian, with fine lemon zest, garlic and parsley; or Indian, with lime juice, cilantro and minced white onion; or Japanese, with toasted sesame seeds and a drizzle of mild honey (called "university potatoes" in Japan, they are a popular street snack for college students). </p> <p>Sweet potatoes stand up well to cheese; any white-potato gratin recipe with the strong flavors of Gruyère or gouda can be adapted to sweet potatoes. Sweet potato fries in restaurants are usually double-deep-fried; it's difficult to make them crisp in an oven, but <a href="">this recipe does the trick</a> at the last minute with brown sugar and spices.</p> <p><strong>RECIPE: <a href="">Sweet Potato Steak Fries With Crunchy Spices</a></strong></p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 20:09:53 -0500 How long should you let a turkey cool before carving and serving? <p>Resting a turkey (or a steak or a leg of lamb or even a large fish) is absolutely necessary -- not optional -- for maximum flavor and juiciness. Keep in mind that during the resting period, the turkey will keep cooking, and the internal temperature will rise by 5 to 10 degrees. Pull it out as soon as  the temperature hits 165, or even a little lower.</p> <p>The amount of resting time depends on the size of the bird, but at least 20 minutes is needed. A large bird can wait up to 40 minutes or longer, depending on the temperature of the room. Cover it with foil, but loosely; you don't want to seal in the moisture, which will cause the skin to steam and lose whatever level of crispness you've achieved.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:07 -0500 How do I carve the turkey? <p>We give you Ray Venezia, the master butcher and head of the meat department at Fairway Market, demonstrating how to carve a Thanksgiving turkey:</p> <webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:10 -0500 Must I chill a pie crust for 3 hours? <p> There's no need to chill a pie crust for three hours. It's not a food safety issue, but the dough need to be chilled so the fat is firm, not liquid, when it goes into the hot oven; it's the quick melting of the fat that creates the flaky crust. Before rolling it out, you can form the dough into a disk, not a ball, and freeze it for 30 minutes. If the dough has already been rolled out and put in the pan, you can put it in the freezer for an hour instead — even 45 minutes is fine.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:51 -0500 How do I know if my turkey is cooked? <p>Far and away, the easiest way for a home cook to gauge when a turkey is done is by using a meat thermometer. It need not be high-tech, but any instrument that can tell you when the thickest part of the thigh -- or the center of a stuffed bird -- is at 165 degrees takes all the uncertainty and drama out of the process. (Don't forget to let it rest for at least 20 minutes afterward.) In the absence of a meat thermometer, you'll need to cut into the joint where the thigh meets the body of the turkey and check to make sure the meat close to the bone is no longer pink.</p> <p>The best way to get there is to roast the bird at a steady 325 degrees. For all but the smallest or largest birds, this will produce brown skin and moist meat that are done at the same time. The skin can get quite dark without burning, but if you are really concerned about over-browning, tent the bird with foil or turn it over (carefully) to expose the other side of the bird to the air.</p> <p>The skin's color or crispness can't tell you anything about the doneness of the meat, unfortunately. If your meat is almost done but the skin is still pale, brush it with maple syrup and butter and turn on the convection feature, if your oven has one, to quickly brown the skin during the rest of the cooking time. If the meat is completely done before the skin, remove the skin altogether, let the turkey rest before carving, and <a href="">make turkey cracklings</a>.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:00 -0500 How do you really get the gravy and other stains out of the tablecloth? <p>My trick is to put a towel or heavy wad of paper towels under the part of the tablecloth with the stain. Placing some plastic under that will protect the table, if necessary. Then, put an ice cube on each stain and leave it overnight. The stain will wash out. A product called Wine Away also works. But problems like these are the reason some hosts only serve white wine.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:59 -0500 Where exactly is the thickest part of the thigh? <p>About 18 seconds into Melissa Clark's video on the final stages of roasting the turkey, she points out the thickest part of the thigh, which is where you'll want to stick your thermometer:</p> <p><webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly></p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:01 -0500 What should I do if my turkey is ready early? <p>Yes, if the turkey's almost done, turn off the oven now to slow the cooking, and check the temperature as you're getting closer to dinnertime. Once it's done, take it out of the oven, and let it rest - a large bird needs to rest for about 45 minutes anyway. You can also loosely tent it with tin foil, if it's not tented already. The turkey may cool off a bit, so serve with hot gravy.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 21:57:38 -0500 What's the best way to peel the inner skin off chestnuts? <p>Chestnuts, a holiday favorite, don't make it easy for us to cook them at home. The pellicle, its sticky inner skin, clings to the nut and can give it a bitter taste.</p> <p>Michael Tortorello addresses <a href=""> tackling chestnuts here</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>At home, snip the chestnuts in half, on the horizontal axis, with kitchen shears. Could you use a serrated paring knife? Sure. Just decide first how many of your fingers you really need.</p> <p>Next, place the chestnuts in a colander or blanching basket and immerse them in a pot of boiling water. Stir with a slotted spoon if you feel the need to do something. After three or four minutes, the shells should be bubbling to the surface. Now the nuts can be boiled until crumbly (about 15 minutes) or moved to the oven. This technique could not be easier, except when it doesn't work. </p> <p>In the event of a partial or total failure, leave the nuts boiling for 10 minutes total, before removing them from their Bikram mikvah. At this point, the shells and skins should slip off as easily as a gangster moll's negligee on "Boardwalk Empire."</p> <p>Plan B is to roast the nuts in the oven. Score the flat side with an X and place the nuts, cut side down, in a glass baking dish. Pour 1/4 inch of water into the bottom, and roast the nuts for 15 to 20 minutes at 375 degrees. (A microwave will take a minute or less, but achieve lesser results.) To peel (while still hot), pinch the sides gently.</p> </blockquote> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:09 -0500 What's that plastic part holding the drumsticks in place? <p>They're called "hock locks" and are made of nylon that can take oven heat. But removing them so the legs spread will help them cook faster and the breast not to overcook.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:10 -0500 How do I fix gravy that's too salty and not thick enough? <p>To fix your gravy, start by making a roux. Melt 1/2 cup butter in a saucepan, and add 1/2 cup flour. Whisk until the roux is golden brown, about 5 minutes.</p> <p>When the roux is golden, whisk in your gravy, then let it simmer, whisking, until it thickens enough to make you happy. The roux should help cut the salty factor as well. If it's still too salty, add a little unsalted chicken broth and let simmer until thick.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:06 -0500 I'd like to slather a turkey in butter and cook it at very high heat. <p>After combing our archives for recipes that met those two requirements - high heat and enough butter for slathering - and coming up empty-handed, I <a href="">posed this question to readers</a>.</p> <p>Ally from New York suggested taking a look at <a href=";sq=suzanne%20hamlin%201996%20recipe&amp;st=cse">an article by Suzanne Hamlin</a> that appeared in The Times in 1996, which lays out the following plan in greater detail: remove the bird from the fridge two hours before it is to be cooked; abstain from seasoning, stuffing, trussing or skewering; roast at 500 degrees. No slathered butter there, but if you want a fast method for roasting, this is one way to do it. (Another: <a href="">spatchcocking</a>.) One important note: to avoid a smoke-filled kitchen, be sure your oven is clean before you begin. </p> <p>Linda Post from Northampton, Mass., writes, "I DO slather my turkey in unsalted butter. It comes from the original Silver Palate cookbook, roasted at 325, and always comes out moist and delicious." It doesn't meet the high heat requirement, but if you're hoping to work an extra stick of butter into the day - no judgment - then here is <a href=";pg=PA115&amp;dq=silver+palate+our+favorite+way+to+roast+a+turkey&amp;hl=en&amp;ei=533OTqzvM4Hw0gGh0LjtDw&amp;sa=X&amp;oi=book_result&amp;ct=result&amp;resnum=1&amp;ved=0CEUQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;q=silver%20palate%20our%20favorite%20way%20to%20roast%20a%20turkey&amp;f=false">that recipe</a>, which sounds delectable.</p> <p><strong>Update:</strong> The turkey you may be after was not exactly published as a recipe in The Times, but it was described <a href="">in this archival article</a> by Jonathan Reynolds, who attributes the method to the culinary historian Karen Hess.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:59 -0500 How can I get my house ready in a hurry? <p>The easiest solution, if your house would not pass a white-glove test, is to designate one room off-limits, pile all the mess into it and close the door. Hang a "do not disturb" sign on it.<br></p> <p>In fact, if you really want to impress the in-laws, remove all of your coats from the hall closet and throw them into that room, too, leaving the hangers in the hall for your guests' coats. The one room you will have to deal with will be the bathroom. Providing fresh towels and ample toilet paper, hiding personal items like toothbrushes and combs, and displaying a small vase with fresh flowers will be all you need to do, provided you have wiped down the fixtures.</p> <p>In bedrooms open to view, make sure the beds are made, and there's no stuff on the floor (except under the bed). Think of your home as a hotel for the day. Here's something else to consider while preparing for dinner: <a href="">setting the table</a>.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:05 -0500 Do I need to use a roasting rack to roast a turkey? <p>The point of using a rack is to let the heat of the oven circulate around the turkey. You don't need a specially designed rack for your roasting pan, but you need something to lift the bird above the bottom of the pan. Balls of aluminum foil work perfectly well; you can also use upside-down ramekins. Also, if the turkey is resting on the bottom of the roasting pan, the skin there will be flabby and moist.</p> <p>If the skin of your turkey turns out flabby, which can happen when roasting at 325 degrees or less, the situation can be saved: make turkey cracklings while the bird rests. Peel off any parts of the skin that haven't browned well, coarsely chop and put them in a heavy skillet over low heat. The skin will release liquid and then fat, then sizzle in the fat until brown and crisp as bacon. After carving, toss the crunchy brown cracklings over the meat, pass them in a bowl at the table, or stir them into Brussels sprouts.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:07 -0500 What can I serve to guests who love sweet cocktails? <p>By "girly," I'm assuming you mean a drink that is on the sweet side. And possibly pink. And very possibly a cosmopolitan. I can't help you on the latter two points. The discerning drinkers at your gathering aren't going to touch a pastel-hued libation, no matter what the pedigree. But a bit of sugar shouldn't be a divisive issue. Contrary to popular belief, a sweet drink need not be an unsophisticated one. Much of the history of cocktail creation has been striking the right balance of liquor, sweetener and acidity (usually in the form of citrus).</p> <p>You might want to start people off with a simple Champagne cocktail. French bubbly satisfies every taste, from the frivolous to the dignified. If the serious imbibers balk, remind them that this is what Victor Laszlo drank. And he won both World War II AND Ingrid Bergman.</p> <p><strong>Champagne Cocktail</strong><br>6 ounces Champagne<br>1 sugar cube<br>Angostura bitters<br>Pour Champagne into a chilled flute. Soak the sugar cube with the bitters and drop into the glass. Garnish with lemon twist.</p> <p>Another potential consensus builder is the Bijou, a gin-based minor classic from the 1890s that is a favorite among mixologists. An ounce of sweet vermouth satisfies the sweet tooth, while an equal portion of herbal Chartreuse lends some complexity. Tell your more worldly guests that this drink is found in the "Bartenders' Manual" of the 19th-century bar legend Harry Johnson, and you'll win their approval. (Some choose to increase the gin content to create a more dry, less herbal drink. You may want to test drive the recipe before serving.) </p> <p><strong>Bijou</strong><br>1 ounce London dry gin<br>1 ounce sweet vermouth<br>1 ounce Chartreuse<br>Dash orange bitter<br>Still ingredients over ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.</p> <p>Since the recent introduction of some artisanal sloe gins, like Plymouth, this sloe berry-infused liqueur has partly recovered from its 1970s reputation as an artificially flavored, bottom-shelf mixer found in low-rent drinks like the Alabama slammer. Because of this, the bloom is back on the sloe gin fizz, a delicious drink that just happens to be sweet, frothy and purple.</p> <p><strong>Sloe Gin Fizz</strong><br>1 ounce sloe gin<br>1 ounce gin<br>3/4 ounce fresh lemon juice<br>1 ounce simple syrup<br>Soda water<br>Shake ingredients with ice and strain into ice-filled highball glass. Top with soda water.</p> <p>Finally, I can't imagine anyone at your feast objecting to a classic pisco sour, founded on the centuries-old, South America-born (both Chile and Peru claim it as their own) grape brandy. You could just give everyone a whiskey sour, and get the same effect, but this will lend a festively exotic note to the day.</p> <p><strong>Pisco Sour</strong><br>2 ounces pisco<br>3/4 ounce lime juice<br>1 ounce simple syrup<br>1 egg white<br>Angostura bitters<br>To best integrate the ingredients, first shake without ice, then shake with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish the frothy top with a few drops of the bitters.</p> <p><strong>Simple Syrup</strong><br>1 cup water<br>1 cup sugar<br>Cook ingredients until sugar has dissolved. Let cool. Refrigerate.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:06 -0500 What if my turkey doesn't thaw in time? <p> Don't worry, go ahead and cook it! The outer parts will probably get a little overcooked while the center thaws and cooks through, but it'll be perfectly safe and edible. You can minimize the overcooking by dialing back your usual oven temperature by 25 to 50 degrees.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:08 -0500 How do I style store-bought turkey to make it look homemade? <p>I passed this question to Susan Spungen, the noted food stylist (her credits include the movie "Julie &amp; Julia") and cookbook author. Her latest, a book on easy entertaining, will be published by Artisan Books next year. She writes:</p> <blockquote> <p>Well, I do hope you mean that you ordered an actual cooked turkey, legs and all, and not a Boar's Head deli breast. There wouldn't be much hope of faking them out with the deli breast, but you can still try the same thing I'd suggest for the real bird: </p> <p>Warm it gently in a 300-degree oven in the foil pan it probably came in, tented with more foil, until it reaches an internal temp of about 160 degrees - that's to keep it moist. Then take off the foil, turn the oven up to 375, brush with melted butter, and sprinkle with fresh or dried thyme and some pepper. Cook until the turkey is 165, about another 15 or 20 minutes - that's to make it shiny and hopefully a little bit brown.</p> <p>The best way to have people think you slaved for days is to buy food that someone slaved for days over. Pick your takeout carefully, and reheat carefully. Put it in your nicest dishes and platters and enjoy. If you have time to chop some fresh parsley or chives, this will go a long way in making your food look pretty and fresh.</p> </blockquote> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:53 -0500 Can I roast a turkey in a Teflon pan? <p>Yes, you can use a Teflon pan to roast the turkey and make the gravy. Teflon does break down under high heat, but oven-roasting and simmering are well below that point.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:06 -0500 My brother owes me $25,000. Do I ask him for the money before or after we carve the turkey? <p>I asked Joseph Bondy, a criminal lawyer whose clients have frequently been accused of having ties to the sort of families that resolve questions of debt in a violent fashion. "It may well depend on the size and sharpness of the blade," he replied.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:08 -0500 Does trussing make the turkey cook faster? <p> Turkey timing is tricky. I've had luck not trussing, and have found that the legs do cook faster, but that depends on your oven and the pan you are using. Trussing will definitely not help the legs cook faster.</p> <p>The best, surefire way to get the legs to cook more quickly is to cut them off the bird and roast them on the side in a separate pan. But you will lose that Norman Rockwell turkey showing moment pre-carving if you do. </p> <p>If you do decide to truss, here's an easy way to go about it:</p> <p><webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly></p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:00 -0500 Can I, and should I, make the stuffing and mashed potatoes the day before Thanksgiving? <p> You can make the stuffing the day before. Just make sure to keep it refrigerated until ready to bake. The mashed potatoes, however, won't fare that well when made ahead. Reheating makes them gummy. You can, however, boil the potatoes ahead, then mash them at the last minute. Just reheat the potatoes in a microwave or on the stove top in a little milk before mashing.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:58 -0500 How many people travel across the George Washington Bridge on the Wednesday before Thanksgiving? <p> I passed this question along to Michael M. Grynbaum, a New York Times metro reporter, who writes:</p> <blockquote> <p>This just in from Ron Marsico, spokesman for the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey, which operates the bridge.</p> <p>"Last year on the day before Thanksgiving, there were approximately 156,800 eastbound vehicles. Typically, we double the number to get the total number of bridge users for a given day, so in this case it would be more than 310,000"</p> </blockquote> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:55 -0500 What are some new ideas for leftover turkey? <p>What are some alternatives to eating leftover turkey other than a cold turkey sandwich with mayo and cranberry sauce? - Carol Ann Della Penna, New Hope, Pa. </p> <p> Leftovers can just be leftovers, heated up or not. And a cold turkey sandwich with a dab of cranberry sauce can be nice at midnight, or anytime over the Thanksgiving weekend.</p> <p>But what are you going to do with that carcass and the scrappy bits of meat that aren't sandwich-worthy? Soup comes to mind. A hearty minestrone wouldn't go amiss, with white beans and chard, perhaps. Or you might rustle up a little turkey risotto.</p> <p>My desire, though, after a day of overindulgence, is for something a bit lighter, yet still packed with flavor. In response to this impulse, here's a not-really-authentic but nevertheless quite <a href="">tasty version of sopa de lima</a>, the restorative and delicious Mexican soup popular in the Yucatán.</p> <p>It's usually made with chicken and a particular kind of small local lime, but your leftover turkey parts and whatever kind of lime you can find will make a lovely reasonable facsimile. </p> <p>Traditional or not, it seems fitting to make this soup with turkey since it is so beloved in Mexico, and has been for a very long time. The ancient Aztecs had already domesticated turkeys when the conquistadors arrived. The European conquerors took breeding stock home, and the turkey-eating habit caught on, well before the Pilgrims headed for Plymouth. In a sense, we really have Mexico to thank for our holiday bird.</p> <p>Today there are regional turkey dishes throughout Mexico, though turkey in mole sauce is perhaps the most famous. It's also one of the most complex, an enormous daylong process that involves a lot of grinding, frying and simmering of chiles, seeds and spices. Delicious yes, but not necessarily what I want to do after having just spent 48 hours cooking up a storm. Let's save that project for a later date.</p> <p>Here is the plan for today (or Friday, or Saturday, as the case may be): simmer up a pot of <a href="">turkey broth</a> enriched with a few vegetables and aromatics, then ladle it forth.</p> <p>Into the individual bowls go shredded turkey meat, avocado, green onions, cilantro, lightly fried tortilla strips, jalapeños and a generous squeeze of lime. Soup's on.<br><strong><br>RECIPES: <a href="">Turkey Soup With Lime and Chile</a>, <a href="">Turkey Broth</a></strong></p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:03 -0500 Are there tricks for cooking turkey in a convection oven? <p>I will be cooking turkey (stuffed) for the first time in my new convection oven. What are the tricks to get crispy skin and moist meat? (Thinking of a fresh Butterball.) - Joyce White, Philadelphia</p> <p>"True" convection differs slightly from an oven with a convection setting. A true convection oven has a fan with its own dedicated heating unit; in a regular oven, the convection setting is just a fan that moves the hot air around. For most home cooking, this doesn't make much difference, but for a large stuffed bird, you'll want to go very slowly. Here is specific advice from Molly Stevens, author of "<a href="">All About Roasting."</a> </p> <blockquote> <p>Yes, I would definitely use the convection setting. It will help the turkey cook more evenly, brown more readily and give you plenty of crisp skin. With such a big turkey (and because it's stuffed), you'll have best results with lower to moderate oven heat - no higher than 325 degrees convection, even 300 degrees convection if you have the time - otherwise you risk drying out the exterior before the interior (and the stuffing) cooks through. For even more browning, you may want to rub some butter or oil on the skin before roasting. Expect the turkey to take 3 to 4 hours, but always test with an instant read thermometer (the stuffing should register 165 degrees)</p> <p>Another hint on getting crisp skin is to let the turkey sit uncovered in the refrigerator for a day before Thanksgiving (which means today). This dries the skin, making it quicker to brown and crisp.</p> </blockquote> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:57 -0500 What are snacks I can serve that are not too filling? <p>We have 35 for dinner and it takes hours to even sit down, what appetizers do we have that are not too filling, can be made in advance, and go with wine and beer? - Frank, Kansas City</p> <p> Stressed? Less time than you need, more guests than you invited? The solution may not be to freak out and go full speed in the kitchen all day but to pick recipes that are impressive, delicious - and easy. These three, which I've written about before, fit the bill: <a href="">prosciutto, fig and parmesan rolls</a>, <a href="">marinated olives and figs stuffed with goat cheese</a>. In fact, you can make all of them in an hour. </p> <p>Title: Marinated Olives</p> <p>Yield: 6 to 12 servings.</p> <p>Time: 1 hour, largely unattended</p> <p>Author: Mark Bittman</p> <p>Ingredients:</p> <p>6 cups assorted olives</p> <p>6 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly crushed</p> <p>1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil</p> <p>1 tablespoon fresh thyme or rosemary leaves (or 1 teaspoon crumbled dried leaves)</p> <p>1 lemon, cut in half and pulp removed as you would from a grapefruit.</p> <p>Method:</p> <p>Toss all ingredients together in a bowl. Marinate at room temperature for at least an hour, or as long as 12 hours. Before serving, marinated olives may be refrigerated, but they should be removed from refrigerator an hour or two before serving.</p> <p>Source: The New York Times</p> <p>Title: Figs Stuffed With Goat Cheese </p> <p>Yield: About 12 servings</p> <p>Time: 15 minutes</p> <p>Author: Mark Bittman</p> <p>Ingredients:</p> <p>2 ounces, approximately, of soft, fresh goat cheese</p> <p>1 tablespoon good balsamic vinegar</p> <p>12 fresh figs, washed and drained.</p> <p>Method:</p> <p>1. Use your fingers to roll the goat cheese into 24 small balls, each 1/2 inch or less in diameter. Place them on a plate, and drizzle them with vinegar. Shake gently to coat evenly.</p> <p>2. Cut figs in half. Press a cheese ball into the center of each fig; as they are stuffed, return them, stuffed side up, to the plate where the cheese was coated in vinegar. Serve within an hour.</p> <p>Source: The New York Times</p> <p>Title: Prosciutto, Fig and Parmesan Rolls</p> <p>Yield: 20 rolls</p> <p>Time: 20 minutes</p> <p>Author: Mark Bittman</p> <p>Ingredients:</p> <p>10 very thin slices prosciutto</p> <p>About 1/4 pound Parmesan, sliced wafer thin</p> <p>8 to 10 dried figs, stemmed and cut into about 3 strips each</p> <p>Truffle or olive oil.</p> <p>Method:</p> <p>1. Cut each piece of prosciutto in half the long way; on each piece, put a slice of Parmesan and a strip of fig. Roll up the long way, pressing so meat sticks to itself. Cover with plastic wrap if not serving right away.</p> <p>2. Serve within 2 hours, drizzling truffle or olive oil on top just before serving.</p> <p>Source: The New York Times</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:50 -0500 Does covering the turkey with cheesecloth actually keep it moister? <p> It can. The cheesecloth can help insulate the breast and slow down the cooking, which can help keep it from overcooking and drying out in the time needed to cook the dark meat through. Make sure to keep the cheesecloth moist as all times. Soaking it in butter before placing it on the turkey is one method. You can also soak it in wine or stock, or a combination of all three. Remove the cheesecloth during the last 30 minutes of cooking so the breast browns. Or, start the bird at high heat (about 450 degrees) for 30 minutes to allow the breast to brown, then lower the heat to 350 and add the cheesecloth (be careful, the pan will be quite hot).</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:58 -0500 Can you cook a whole turkey sous vide? <p>Well, you could, but the textures would be bad - the breast would be mealy by the time the thighs were cooked - and you'd need to deep-fry it to crisp the skin. So my answer would be no.</p> <p>But you could sous-vide the legs and the breast separately. My inclination would be to sous-vide the legs at 150 degrees for 24 to 36 hours, then drop the breast in for 2 hours. I'd then remove the turkey from the bag and broil the turkey to crisp the skin. In a quick text from my friend Grant Achatz, chef and co-owner of Alinea, who made one of the first "how to sous-vide a turkey" videos, if not <em>the</em> first, he suggested cooking the legs at 175 degrees for five hours for falling-off-the-bone tender, almost like a confit. That in itself would be worth doing, but not on Thanksgiving, in my opinion, when part of the pleasure of the day is a home filled with the smells of roasting turkey and seeing the whole cooked bird. </p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:56 -0500 Can I take a torte wrapped in foil through airport security? <p>Yes, you can. "Pies, cakes, pastries are all O.K.," said Greg Soule, a spokesman for the Transportation Security Administration. "It's jams and gravy that could be considered a liquid or a gel." So leave those gift baskets of salsa and preserves at home. More information can be found at <a href=""></a>.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:54 -0500 I need an easy cornbread recipe. <p> Here you go:</p> <p>Title: Gluten-Free Cornbread</p> <p>Yield: 8 servings</p> <p>Time: About 12 minutes</p> <p>Ingredients:</p> <p>1 cup white cornmeal</p> <p>1 teaspoon baking powder</p> <p>1/2 teaspoon baking soda</p> <p>1 teaspoon salt</p> <p>2 eggs</p> <p>1 cup buttermilk</p> <p>2 tablespoons maple syrup</p> <p>1 tablespoon melted bacon grease plus more for the pan</p> <p>Method:</p> <p>1. Heat oven to 475 degrees. Place a 12-inch cast-iron pan on medium heat.</p> <p>2. Mix the corn meal, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Lightly beat the eggs and mix with buttermilk and syrup. Add to the dry ingredients and mix until smooth. Add 1 tablespoon bacon grease and stir well.</p> <p>3. Coat skillet with bacon grease, heat for 1 minute and pour in the batter. Bake until the top is lightly browned and a toothpick stuck in the center comes out clean.</p> <p>Note:</p> <p>You can cook 3 or 4 bacon strips in the skillet to coat the pan with grease, get the melted grease for the batter and, if you like, crumble some bacon into the batter.</p> <p>Source: The New York Times</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:04 -0500 Which sides can be adapted for a slow cooker? <p>A big slow cooker is very useful at Thanksgiving, both as a cooking tool and as an extra heat source. Michele Scicolone, who has written <a href="">solid books</a> about using a slow cooker to advantage, including the forthcoming <a href="">"The French Slow Cooker,"</a> says that the one thing it can't do is reheat food from a refrigerated or frozen state. (The heat won't penetrate quickly enough for safe heating.) But a slow cooker can keep hot food hot without drying it out: like the stuffing that comes out of a turkey, or just-made gravy, or mashed root vegetables, or casseroles that have been cooked in the oven. (Use the "warm" setting.) </p> <p>And a slow cooker can cook some foods, like grits or mulled cider. Or even mashed potatoes. Here's her method: In a large slow cooker set on high heat, combine 4 pounds peeled potatoes with 1 smashed garlic clove, 1 teaspoon salt, and hot water just to cover. Cover and cook on high heat for 3 to 4 hours; the potatoes will slowly absorb the water and become soft. Scoop out of the cooker with a slotted spoon (save the cooking water) and into a bowl. Immediately mash with hot cream and soft butter, then salt and pepper to taste. If the potatoes seem dry, add some cooking water. Return to the cooker, cover and keep warm.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:52 -0500 How do I get started with my turkey? <p>What is the recommendation for rinsing or not rinsing a turkey? - Trish, Skokie, Ill.</p> <p> <webonly><iframe src="" height="270" width="480" border="0" frameborder="0"></iframe></webonly></p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:52 -0500 Is it inappropriate to watch football while eating Thanksgiving dinner with my family? <p>I fully expect to be deported to Liechtenstein soon after saying this, but I don't really think it's appropriate to watch football on Thanksgiving.</p> <p>I don't think it's appropriate to watch a football game before, during or after the meal. ("During" is especially wrong. You need to be present for this precious gathering of loved ones, and you need to stay on high alert so that Uncle Kenny doesn't hog the gravy again.)</p> <p>In fact, I'm not sure it's a good idea to watch television at all.</p> <p>I'm guessing there is a grand total of, oh, about 368 fellow Americans who agree with me on this point, and I'm also guessing that they're gradually dying off, like Shakers and fans of <a href="">the Spin Doctors</a>. </p> <p>But I'm not (entirely) kidding. I think it's totally unpleasant to be overeating and bickering with relatives while you're being subjected to a shrill, woof-woofing soundtrack of fumbles, penalty calls and beer commercials. It's better to avoid the game altogether so that everyone can focus on overeating and bickering in peace.</p> <!-- more --> <p>And then there's the digestion question. Most people seem to switch on the game a few minutes after having wolfed down their fifth slice of pie, but if you do that, there's the cognitive dissonance of watching professional athletes and cheerleaders vigorously moving their bodies while your own body lies on the couch in a state of postprandial lethargy and bloat.</p> <p>Go for a walk, Mr. Chu! Gather the family together for a spirited game of shuffleboard! And then when you all return to the house, you can reach back into the fridge, find what's left of the pie, and start eating all over again. Because while, no, I'm not a big football fan, I believe wholeheartedly in gluttony. It's the American way.</p> <p>(P.S. Reading the newspaper is totally fine.)</p> Tue, 20 Nov 2012 10:18:50 -0500 How do you make good gravy from a brined turkey? <p>Brining 101: The point of brining is to infuse the turkey with salt and water. This increases the succulence and juiciness of turkey meat, which tends to be dry. While the turkey is roasting, some salt water, mixed with the turkey's fat and juices, drips into the bottom of the pan. These "drippings" dry out and cook in the oven's heat. Most cooks find these drippings, even when deglazed with stock, inedibly salty. </p> <p>Some people say that you can use the drippings of a brined bird for gravy so long as your stock is unsalted. In the absence of unsalted stock, another solution is to discard the drippings and use only the fat for gravy, cooking flour in the fat until golden and then thinning out this roux with homemade stock. It will have some fresh-roasted-turkey flavor, but not too much salt. </p> <p>However, do not expect this method to produce the rich, meaty, dark-brown gravy that is preferred at some tables: a fat-flour-stock gravy will always be lighter in color and flavor.</p> <p>Dry-brined and kosher turkeys usually make perfectly fine gravy. However, it is prudent to taste the drippings before beginning. If they taste too salty, use them only sparingly.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:58 -0500 How can I reheat my turkey without drying it out? <p> The only way to reheat a turkey without drying it out would be to cut it into pieces. Roast it the day before, let it cool, and store it in the fridge overnight. Then bring it to room temperature for about two hours before reheating - show it off to your guests. Then carve it into large pieces (legs, wings, breast halves) and spread them on one or two baking sheets and cover with foil. Reheat at 325 degree until warm, about 20 to 30 minutes. Then remove the foil and broil for a minute or two so the skin crisps up. I can't promise no one will know of your ruse but at least the turkey will taste good.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:02 -0500 Is it safe to cook a Reagan-era frozen turkey? <p>Although we admire your thrifty spirit, do not cook this turkey. It may appear unchanged since the Reagan administration, but there is no way of knowing how many power failures it has endured. If that bird was ever thawed long enough for bacteria to grow, there is a good chance that those bacteria became dormant, but did not die, when it was refrozen.</p> <p>Even the most consistent residential refrigerator does not keep food cold enough to prevent some degradation of flesh over time. Theoretically, a turkey kept at 60 degrees below zero or colder, the way tuna and salmon are superfrozen for sushi, could be safely cooked after 20 years. But the director of the Butterball Turkey-Talk Line, Mary Clingman, instructs her team that two years in the freezer is the maximum.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:50 -0500 Is it improper to turn Thanksgiving into a potluck? And how do I tell my guests? <p>Improper? Hardly. It's desirable, accepted and traditional, going back to the very first Thanksgiving, when the natives contributed substantially to the colonists' feast. If none of your guests have offered (which would be surprising), it's best to be upfront about it once you have planned the meal and decided what you will produce in your kitchen.</p> <p>Contact your guests - by phone rather than e-mail - and say simply that the dinner will be potluck and ask what they might wish to bring, making it clear that the item does not have to be homemade. For non-cooks there is always wine, beer or a pie to buy, or even items like a cranberry relish or a casserole from a takeout shop. Do not leave it to chance, and if a dish that someone brings is not exactly what you had in mind, express only fawning gratitude, never disappointment.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:03 -0500 How can I convince my mother-in-law to let me cook? <p>The idea that you'll take complete control of the meal while you're a guest in her house is probably a nonstarter. You're better off trying baby steps, and offering to help out rather than attempting to take over. The easiest route might be to appoint your husband as your envoy. He could tell his mother that to save your marriage, she has to let you do some of the cooking, since you love to be in the kitchen. If that seems a little extreme, he could make a case that your assistance would reduce her workload.</p> <p>If she's still unwilling, he might mention that you had just cooked something so drop-dead fabulous that he insists it be on the table, and of course you'd be happy to prepare it again. To further blunt the impact of your mother-in-law's less-than-stellar cooking, and your heartfelt wish that she do none of it, you might suggest that she ask some other guests to contribute to the feast. </p> <p>It's the unusual host or hostess at this holiday who will refuse to let anybody help, at least by bringing a dish. But be careful how far you push. Whether or not she cooks like <a href="">April Bloomfield</a>, this lady is part of your family. Thanksgiving is not worth ruining a relationship, although that hasn't stopped people from trying.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:56 -0500 Can I make turkey on the stove top? <p>In most of the world, ovens have never been standard in home kitchens. <a href="">Molly Stevens</a>, a cooking teacher in Vermont and the author of recent tomes on braising and roasting, says it is possible to cook succulent turkey on the stove top, but not as a whole bird. She said the turkey pieces needed to be as close as possible to the heat source.</p> <p>Buy a bird no larger than 12 pounds. Cut it into at least 10 pieces, and cut carrots, onion and celery into large chunks. Season the turkey pieces and brown them in a neutral oil like grapeseed, working in batches in a large heavy pot with a lid. When all the turkey is browned, add the vegetables to the fat in the pan, along with fresh thyme and sage, and cook briefly. On this aromatic bed, arrange the dark meat, then put the white meat on top. Splash in a tablespoon or two of stock or white wine, bring to a quiet simmer and cover tightly. Cook for one hour, until the thighs register about 170 degrees; splash in a little more liquid as needed. The meat will be juicy and aromatic. The vegetables can be pushed through a sieve into a saucepan, thinned with more stock and served as gravy.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:54 -0500 What should I bring to my boyfriend's parents' home? <p>You could bring anything you like, though I would coordinate with your boyfriend to find out what would be appreciated. Thanksgiving is usually fairly well-coordinated. If his parents already have the wines lined up and the desserts are spoken for, neither would be a good idea. Find out if you can. However, a bottle of Champagne, chilled, for them to serve before dinner, or even to appreciate at another time, is never a mistake.</p> <p>Similarly, a box of fine chocolates would be a lovely gesture. Flowers? A fine choice, but only if you send them beforehand so the host or hostess does not have to wrestle with them the day of.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:06:02 -0500 What are some festive cocktails that are easy to make for a group? <p>For a pre-cornucopia cocktail to get the gathered into a convivial mood, the temptation is to go with something brown and warming. It's fall, there's a nip in the air, and a harvest-like scene awaits on the table. Something in the whiskey or port family seems in order. But you've got a heavy dinner ahead of you. The last thing you need is an equally heavy drink.</p> <p>With that in mind, here a few recommendations that split the difference. (All of the below are stirred drinks, and thus readily made in large batches.)</p> <p>Simplest solution first. I've always found a batch of Negronis - equal parts London dry gin (I recommend Beefeater or Plymouth), sweet vermouth and Campari - makes for a light and enticing opening act to any meal. The gin won't weigh you down, and the Campari will enliven your appetite. Also, the drink's as easy as a martini to make.</p> <p><strong>Negroni</strong><br>1 ounce London dry gin<br>1 ounce sweet vermouth<br>1 ounce Campari<br>Orange peel, sliced.<br>Stir over ice and strain into a glass, preferably one filled with ice. Garnish with a fat swath of orange peel. </p> <p>For something along the same simple but satisfying lines, try an Old Pal, which subs in whiskey for the gin, dry vermouth for the sweet. The result is a nice balance of the warm, the sweet, the spicy and the bitter.<br><strong><br>Old Pal</strong><br>1 1/2 ounces bourbon or rye whiskey<br>3/4 ounce dry vermouth<br>3/4 ounce Campari<br>Orange peel, sliced.<br>Serve over ice in a rocks glass with a fat swath of orange peel.</p> <p>The Saratoga is another surprisingly unsung concoction that is conjured up with ease. It's just a Manhattan with a significant assist from brandy. But that dose of Cognac adds a world of depth, and a whiff of the gentleman's club, to the drink.</p> <p><strong>Saratoga</strong><br>1 ounce rye whiskey<br>1 ounce Cognac<br>1 ounce sweet vermouth<br>Dash Angostura bitters<br>Twists of lemon.<br>Stir ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with twist of lemon.</p> <p>The Fernando is a creation of the Greenwich Village bar Employees Only that I've always found to be a pitch-perfect prelude to any repast. The equal play it gives to the intensely herbal Fernet Branca, and the sweeter and more lightly herbal Galliano and Cinzano Bianco will snap you out of the sleepiest holiday fatigue.</p> <p><strong>Fernando</strong><br>1 1/4 ounces Fernet Branca<br>1 3/4 ounce dry vermouth, preferably Carpano Bianco<br>3/4 ounce Galliano<br>1 mint sprig.<br>Stir ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Smack the mint sprig to release its natural aromas and place in glass.</p> <p>The PDT bartender Jim Meehan's Nouveau Sangaree strikes the right autumnal balance with it twin base of Beaujolais nouveau (released every November) and Laird's bonded apple brandy. Sloe gin and maple syrup remind you that life should be sweet during the holidays.</p> <p><strong>Nouveau Sangaree</strong><br>2 ounce Beaujolais nouveau<br>1 1/2 ounce apple brandy<br>1/2 ounce sloe gin<br>1/4 ounce maple syrup<br>2 dashes of Angostura bitters<br>Stir over ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.</p> <p>"Beta Cocktails," the mixologists Maksym Pazuniak and Kirk Estopinal's excellent new book of counterintuitive mixed drinks, contains a number of potions that - with their emphasis on Italian bitters and amari like Cynar, Campari and Averno - perform well both as appetite-spiking aperitifs and digestion-aiding after-dinner drinks. One of my favorites is Italian Heirloom. Like many of the cocktails in this book, it looks slightly crazy on paper. But the alchemy works.<br><strong><br>Italian Heirloom</strong><br>2 ounces Cynar<br>1/2 ounces blended Scotch<br>1/2 ounces Laphroaig 10-year-old Scotch<br>Pinch salt<br>5 lemon twists.<br>Mix ingredients, expressing the lemon peels and dropping them into the glass. Stir over ice and strain into chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with lemon twist.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:53 -0500 How can I incorporate chocolate into a Thanksgiving table? <p>It's a quandary: there is no such thing as a traditional Thanksgiving chocolate dessert. But at a big festive dinner, there will always be a demand for chocolate. You might paint a parbaked pie crust with melted chocolate before filling it. (This is good for pecan pie.) Small brownie squares make a nice adjunct to fruit pies, and The New York Times's <a href="">recipe for Supernatural Brownies</a> has the sharp sweetness and bitterness that make chocolate such a good punctuation to any meal. </p> <p>In my family, Thanksgiving is an opportunity to shop for chocolate treats, not make them. About an hour after the pie frenzy has died down, an intense bite of chocolate, served with a bowl of the season's first juicy clementines and a cup of strong coffee, provides a much-needed revival. Foil-covered chocolate turkeys are not the solution: high-quality dark chocolate - in bar, truffle or bonbon form - is the ticket. </p> <p>There are numberless chocolate artisans out there, many of them experimenting with Thanksgiving-unfriendly combinations like lemon grass, bacon and Reese's Peanut Butter Cups. But others are remaking classic American sweets like chocolate-mint wafers, pecan turtles and chocolate-covered citrus peels.</p> <p>Some of the best online sources are <a href=""> V Chocolates </a>in Salt Lake City; <a href="">L.A. Burdick</a> in Walpole, N.H.; <a href="">Bissinger's</a> in St. Louis, and<a href=""> Li-Lac Chocolates </a>in New York.</p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:55 -0500 I’m tired of canned 'cranberry sauce' that still holds the shape of the can. Can you recommend a recipe? <p>Whether canned (with that odd gelatinous solidity) or made fresh (when it often turns into either a too-sweet goo or a bitter slurry), cranberry sauce can seem like more of a default nod to the ordeals of the Pilgrims than a genuine source of holiday pleasure.</p> <p>But an alternative needs that same garnet hue (a crucial contrast to the beigeness of the Thanksgiving plate) and something to provide a sophisticated, amped-up spin on the flavors that cranberry sauce is supposed to deliver.</p> <p>"Sweet and sour: that's really what you're looking for," said Marcus Jernmark, the executive chef at Aquavit. "So it makes total sense to play with lingonberries." </p> <p>Nordic cuisine is chic right now, and lingonberries are a Scandinavian staple (if you've had Swedish meatballs, you know how deftly these berries merge with gravy and mashed potatoes). Hence we asked Mr. Jernmark, a 29-year-old Swede, to concoct his version of Thanksgiving's red sauce. </p> <p>What he came up with - <a href="">a blend of lingonberry preserves, apples and shallots</a>, shot through with aromatic layers of spice, almost like a mulled wine - is bracingly delicious and sort of a perfect solution: It's traditional enough that the cranberry diehards in your family won't complain, and yet so exuberantly earthy that the culinary progressives at your table will smile and ask about when you ate at Noma.<br><strong><br>RECIPE: <a href="">Thanksgiving Lingonberry Relish</a><br></strong></p> Tue, 13 Nov 2012 19:05:53 -0500