Chef David Chang at the September opening of a Momofuku Noodle Bar in Toronto. Toronto Star/Zuma Press

David Chang is the founder of Momofuku restaurant group, which includes four restaurants, five bakeries and a bar in New York, plus locations in Sydney and Toronto. He recently spoke to the WSJ's Katy McLaughlin about his changing concepts of "home."

Terror is the emotion I associate with the apartment on First Avenue [in Manhattan's East Village]. I signed the lease for it the very same day I signed the lease for Momofuku Noodle Bar, my first restaurant, in the summer of 2004. I was starting the business and it was really hard. It consumed me.

I grew up reading about André Soltner, the chef and owner of Lutèce, who lived above the restaurant and only missed something like five days of work in his entire life. Or Daniel Boulud, who lived above Daniel. I wanted to live above Noodle Bar, but I couldn't afford the rent, so I rented the closest place I could get. My dad always tells me that he knew Momofuku was going to be successful because I lived as close as possible. It's a weird Korean thing, or maybe it's just my father's thing. The idea is that you're close to work, you're totally committed.

Famed New York Chef David Chang lives in an apartment next to his popular Momofuku Noodle Bar. Katy McLaughlin on Lunch Break looks at his quest to find a home that feels like home. Photo: Momofuku.

The apartment was probably less than 400 square feet; it was one of those studios made to look like a one-bedroom. It was on the second floor and faced the alley. I don't think sunlight had ever reached any of the rooms. There was one window facing the alleyway, and there were bars on that window. It was old and kind of dumpy; it had white walls, a TV, and there was a bed in it when I moved in. It was a weird shape. I think the rent was something like $1,400, but I don't exactly remember. The only thing I remember clearly about that time financially is that it felt like I was always sinking.

In 2004, he rented a 400-square-foot apartment on First Avenue in Manhattan, pictured here. Ramsay de Give for The Wall Street Journal

Snapshot: Manhattan's East Village

Median home price, 2004: $1,114,984
Median home price today: $1,475,000
Median monthly rent today: $3,100

Highest sale price this year:
A 1,590-square-foot condo that sold in April for $8.3 million.

Most expensive home listed on Trulia: 6,785-square-foot, four-bedroom condo:
$25 million

Source: Trulia (ZIP Code 10003), StreetEasy (rental data, East Village)

The apartment served as the office for Momofuku, too, because Momofuku was only 550 square feet and we didn't have room for an office. The living room was filled with papers and files. It had a little galley kitchen, but it had nothing in it and I never cooked in it. Why would I ever cook there? The restaurant kitchen was only half a block away.

People don't understand that when you work in a restaurant, you literally live there. Even today, I basically live in hotels. This year, we opened four places in Toronto. In the last year, I spent about three months in Toronto. Over the last 14 months, I spent five months total in Australia. I live in the Star casino there, where we have the restaurant. I've gone long stretches where I haven't left the grounds. You work, you eat, you get a drink, you go to bed. Everything you need is in a little bubble. Some people working with me have said, "I can't take this anymore. I gotta get out of here." I tell them, "Dude, this is what my life has been like for nine years."

The apartment next to Momofuku wasn't really a home—it was just an extension of work. I have no fond memories of it. It gave me no solace. But before that, I slept on a friend's foldout couch. Cooks in their mid-20s, their 30s—even in their early 40s—just make it happen. You sleep anywhere you can on your $400 to $500 a week. I've known guys who don't even have beds—they sleep on the floor. To be honest, I've hated every home I've ever had. For most cooks, "home" is really a bar. "Home" is hanging out with your culinary friends. "Home" is a movie theater where you're watching a movie. "Home" is just anywhere that is not at work.

Momofuku located at 171 First Ave. in Manhattan's East Village. Ramsay de Give for The Wall Street Journal

Momofuku's front door Ramsay de Give for The Wall Street Journal

I lived in that apartment for four years. The loads of paperwork and files in the place only increased and took over more. I had some friends and also some girlfriends who tried to redecorate but it never really got any better. I was very happy to get away. I moved to Chelsea, but the place I bought has no sun either. I'm never at home. The only thing in my fridge is swag from the food bags I get at events.

For me now, the concept of home has to change. I'm working on that. I'm 35 and most of my friends are married with kids now; I'm still a bachelor. They have places in San Francisco or Hoboken or Brooklyn. I keep thinking, "I'm like an 18-year-old kid." The word home to me at this point, it's just a place to order Chinese food, sharpen knives and shower. But my friends, their places might be big or might be small, but they are nice places to come home to.

So I'm trying to make changes. I sold my place and I have to be out by December. It didn't have a lot of light. I'm going to take time to try to find a place that I like. When I think of "home," I think No. 1 of light. It would be nice to wake up in the morning and wake up with the sunshine.

Another thing I've learned is that being within 20 minutes' walking distance of work is very important. I realized I need to be just far away enough that other people deliver the skill set to take over. If you're a parent and you are always making decisions for your children, they never learn to do it themselves. By being right there, I couldn't separate myself. I have to give myself some distance.

And I think of mountains and total space. I mean Wyoming or Idaho or Montana. I lived out there for a few months when I was 21 and I go out there whenever I can, to fly-fish, ski and snowboard. But that's probably not going to happen for a long time. I'm still sorting myself out.

—As told to Katy McLaughlin

Corrections & Amplifications
The photographs of Momofuku in Manhattan's East Village are of the current location at 171 First Ave. An earlier version of this article said they were of the original East Village restaurant.

Write to Katy McLaughlin at