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iminhell 10-12-2009 01:11 AM

140* coolant temp problem thereafter
I've got no way to log or view live data, and this isn't in the right section, but I assure you it's hear because those who may know frequent this section more than tech.

Normal driving I don't get over 130* coolant temp. Even when it was 75-80 out when I first did the swap. In town stop and go I'll warm up to maybe 180*, turn the heater on and it drops decently quick.
Lately (last 4 days or so) when I get up to about 140* my idle goes to shit. It'll bounce a few hundred RPM and just stall out.

Car doesn't use oil and leaks no coolant. My first though was cracked head or something along that line, no dice though. So my second thought is fuel. But if I remember what Tom and ill said the warmup tables/etc are time based and not temp based. So something seems different about mine then and I just can't put my finger on it.

Put a new fuel filter in the other day thinking, eh it's cheap WTH. Same deal. Put my COP setup on and some MOT coppers, no change (with the idle that is, everything else is better).

Guess I'm just looking for someone to say 'hey stupid, your injectors are that dirty, get them cleaned professionally'. But the temp thing is weird, isn't it?

jetrinka 10-12-2009 01:13 AM

Doesn't ever warm up? Sounds like a stuck open t-stat.

iminhell 10-12-2009 01:40 AM

Might be, gonna check tomorrow. Worked fine when it was put in 2ish months ago though. Just hasn't warmed up since I put the polished head on (which I kind of expected based on past experience, see here and here for reference).

03OrangeSVT 10-12-2009 09:08 AM

I've got a crap load of head work done as well and I dont have any issues..... maybe its your sensor??

1turbofocus 10-12-2009 10:14 AM

Polishing the combustionchambers has nothing to do with engine temps and by looking at your pictures I dont think you fully understand what and why doing this helps and whats its done for or maybe I am just not seeing it in the pictures fully

Polishing the CC so you can see your self in it really does nothing but make the guy doing it feel better , what your after is removing any surface or SHARP EDGES that might when EGT come up promote deto/spk knock and altho what you have done is very pritty you have made a lot of very sharp edges

What you want is more of a smoothing effect vs a high pollish

As stated doing what you did has nothing to do with your engine temps they (even with a high polish) should respond just like a stock head , do you have an aftermarket raid? what are your fans coming on at ? have you checked your temps with something other then gauge ? Did you move your sensor or is it still stock position


focusbaja 10-12-2009 10:33 AM

Either the sensor or a stuck open T-stat

1turbofocus 10-12-2009 12:21 PM

Even if the thurmo is stuck unles the fans are coming on at that low a temp it will still get hot at idle and not moving , turn the fans off and no thurmo and you will see it heat to boil

Sensor is my guess or big raid and early fans , Not sure what all he has or where he is getting the reading from if he cant datalog


WRCwannabe 10-12-2009 01:09 PM

ive noticed since i put a 180* thermo in and the weather started getting colder my car runs a lot cooler especially since it is kinda cold outside.

1turbofocus 10-12-2009 01:35 PM

Sure it will but should never be below what the thurmostat is , If you have a 180 thurmo and you go to 170deg temp when moving then you have a bad thurmostat and its stuck open

This needs to be watched on a scan tool not the ODO


iminhell 10-12-2009 03:25 PM

Stock radiator, actually the whole cooling system is stock apart from the SVT water outlet and I'm using a SVT water temp sensor (SVT has no provision for a head temp sensor like the stock zetec). Resistances of the sensors is identical though.
Fans are on toggle switches, so they come on when I turn them on lol. Which is never as it is now.

I did get it to warm up once. Had to let it idle for about an hour though.
