Edition: U.S. / Global

IN THE KITCHEN;Hale and Hearty Soups

Published: January 21, 1996

LEWIS CARROLL'S Mock Turtle sang of soup, "beautiful soup." At this time of year, you do not have to be a turtle to be grateful for soup.

Creamy vegetable purees, thick bean-based concoctions and rich, smoky chowders are some of the many soups that warm body and soul when the weather turns raw. Although some soups call for long simmering, most of the cooking is unattended. For others, it takes less time to tenderize the vegetables and smooth them by machine.

Leftover soup can always be thinned, extended, doctored and otherwise transformed to serve at a different meal. If need be, some of the soup can be frozen for another blustery day.

Lentil and Barley Soup Total time: 2 hours

1tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1/2cup chopped onion 1/4cup chopped celery 1/4cup chopped carrot 2large cloves garlic, minced 1tablespoon curry powder 6cups vegetable or chicken stock 1cup dry lentils 1/3cup medium barley Juice of 1 lemon Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro.

1. Heat the oil in a heavy, deep saucepan. Add the onion, celery and carrot, and saute until tender but not brown. Stir in the garlic and cook a minute or so longer; then stir in the curry powder.

2. Add the stock, bring to a simmer, and stir in the lentils and barley.

3. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer and cook about an hour and a half, until the lentils and barley are tender. Add some more stock or water during cooking if necessary.

4. Stir in the lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve, garnished with a sprinkling of cilantro.

Yield: 4 generous servings.

Cream of Fennel Soup Total time: 45 minutes

1 1/2pounds fresh fennel 2tablespoons unsalted butter 1/2cup chopped onion 3cups chicken stock 1cup heavy cream 2tablespoons Pernod or Ricard Salt and freshly ground white pepper 4teaspoons (about 3/4 ounce) fresh sturgeon caviar (optional).

1. Cut the feathery tops off the fennel bulbs. Finely mince two tablespoons of the green tops and set aside. Discard the woody stems. Chop the fennel bulbs medium fine.

2. Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan. Add the onion and chopped fennel bulb, cover and cook over low heat until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Add the chicken stock and simmer 10 minutes longer.

3. Puree the soup in a blender or a food processor. Return it to the saucepan and add the cream. Simmer for five minutes; then stir in the Pernod or Ricard and season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Bring to a simmer. Serve the soup topped with a dusting of chopped fennel tops. If desired, float a teaspoon of caviar on top of each serving.

Yield: 4 servings.

Smoked Turkey Chowder Total time: 1 hour

2ounces diced slab bacon 1/2cup chopped onion 1/2cup chopped celery 2 1/2cups diced, peeled boiling potatoes 1bay leaf 3cups chicken stock 3cups milk 1pound skinless smoked turkey or chicken, finely diced Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/2cup heavy cream.

1. Heat a heavy saucepan and add the bacon. Saute until the bacon is golden; then drain it well and remove it, leaving as much fat as possible in the pan.

2. Add the onion and celery to the pan, and saute until tender. Add the potatoes, bay leaf and stock, and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes.

3. Roughly mash the potatoes in the saucepan with a fork, leaving some pieces. Stir in the milk, and add the turkey or chicken. Simmer the mixture for 15 minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and add the cream. Simmer five minutes.

4. Serve the turkey chowder with a sprinkling of the reserved diced bacon on top.

Yield: 6 servings.