Edition: U.S. / Global

Eating Well

By Marian Burros
Published: May 15, 1996

WHEN someone says, "I'll just have a salad," the implication is that something light and simple is desired. But Americans have a way of adding fat and calories to a once-healthful dish, and a salad is no exception. The base may still be lettuce, but the topping might include loads of blue cheese and bacon bits.

There are many choices, however, between the rabbit food and the fat food. Main-dish salads can be delicious, healthful and hearty.

The following three salads include Cleopatra's Caesar, with a dressing that uses buttermilk and Parmesan rather than oil. It would be superb over any kind of greens, and the salad could be made more substantial with the addition of chicken or shrimp.

For the paella salad, I found a delicious salmon-based sausage, made with lots of herbs and spices but no fat. If such a sausage is not available, just add more shrimp or scallops.

The Pacific Rim salad is filled with the flavors of Thailand and Vietnam and calls for lemon grass. Not exactly as widely available as iceberg lettuce, it is still relatively easy to find in speciality food markets.

When working with lemon grass, first wash it and trim off the root. Then smash the outside of the stalk with a mallet, because the outer layer is tough. If it is impossible to find lemon grass, a substitute is a mixture of grated lime rind and lemon juice.

Use a partially ripe mango for a tart-sweet flavor and a ripe mango for a very sweet flavor.

Paella Salad Total time: 1 hour

2 cups chopped onion 3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons olive oil 1 teaspoon curry powder 2 cups long-grain rice 4 cups no-salt-added chicken stock 1/4 teaspoon saffron or turmeric 1 cup dry white wine 1/2 pound seafood sausage 1 pound large scallops 4 tablespoons white-wine vinegar 6 tablespoons lemon juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 pound shelled cooked shrimp, cut in half 1 1/2 pounds yellow, orange, purple, red and green peppers, finely chopped 1 large or 2 small bunches arugula, trimmed, washed and dried.

1. Saute onion in the 2 teaspoons hot oil in nonstick pan over medium-high heat. When onion softens, add curry. 2. Add the rice, stock and saffron or turmeric, stirring well. Reduce heat, and simmer the rice, covered, for 17 minutes total, until liquid has been absorbed and rice is tender. 3. Meanwhile, heat the wine; add the sausage, and cook about 10 minutes, until the sausage is firm to the touch; remove. Add the scallops and cook 2 or 3 minutes, depending on size. Slice the sausage 1/4 inch thick, removing casing if it is too thick to eat. 4. Whisk together the 3 tablespoons oil, vinegar, lemon juice, salt, pepper, rosemary and parsley in a bowl large enough to hold all the ingredients. Add the rice, shrimp, scallops, sausage and peppers and chill a couple of hours, or overnight. To serve, arrange the arugula on each of six plates and mound the salad on top of the arugula. Yield: 6 servings as a main dish. Approximate nutritional analysis per serving: 605 calories, 15 grams fat, 175 milligrams cholesterol, 375 milligrams sodium, 45 grams protein, 65 grams carbohydrate.

Cleopatra's Caesar Salad Total time: 20 minutes

Olive-oil-flavored nonstick spray 3 to 4 slices sourdough bread, cut 1/2 inch thick 3 or 4 large cloves garlic 8 tablespoons finely grated Par- migiano Reggiano 1 cup low-fat buttermilk 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons lemon juice 6 drops Worcestershire sauce 2 flat anchovy fillets, drained, dried and minced 2 teaspoons minced parsley Few shakes salt Freshly ground black pepper 20 cups romaine lettuce torn into bite-size pieces (2 or 3 heads).

1. Turn the oven to 450 degrees. 2. Spray the bread on both sides with nonstick spray; then rub with the cut side of several garlic cloves, reserving 1 clove for the dressing. Toast the bread for about 10 minutes, on the bottom shelf of the oven, until brown, turning once. 3. Spoon the grated cheese into a small bowl. Stir in the buttermilk, and blend well. 4. Mince 1 clove of garlic, and add to the mixture with mustard, lemon juice, Worcestershire, anchovies, parsley, salt and pepper; whisk to blend. 5. For each salad, mix together 1/4 of the croutons with 5 cups of romaine and 1/4 of the salad dressing, and toss. Yield: 4 main-dish salads. Approximate nutritional analysis per serving: 185 calories, 5 grams fat, 12 milligrams cholesterol, 400 milligrams sodium, 13 grams protein, 25 grams carbohydrate.

Pacific Rim Lamb Salad Total time: 20 minutes

1 1/2 pounds boneless leg of lamb 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon finely minced lemon grass 7 or 8 tablespoons lime juice, about 3 limes 1/2 teaspoon plus 2 tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla or nuoc mam) Nonstick pan spray 4 large cloves garlic 1/2 to 1 teaspoon hot pepper flakes 1 1/2 cups finely chopped red onion 4 large slightly ripe mangos, cubed 4 tablespoons finely chopped basil 4 tablespoons chopped cilantro, plus cilantro for garnish 1 1/2 pounds fresh linguine or fettuccine, cooked, drained and cooled.

1. Remove all the fat from the lamb, and slice it into 1/8-inch-thick pieces. Combine 2 teaspoons of lemon grass, 2 teaspoons lime juice and 1/2 teaspoon fish sauce in a bowl large enough to hold the meat. Mix the meat with the marinade, and set aside for 10 minutes. Then, either grill the lamb on a stove-top grill or broil until it is browned on both sides but still pink inside, just a few minutes. 2. Heat a small saute pan; spray with nonstick spray, and saute the garlic for 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Spoon into a bowl large enough to hold all the ingredients. 3. To the bowl add the remaining lemon grass, lime juice, fish sauce, hot pepper flakes, red onion, mango, basil and chopped cilantro, and stir well. 4. Dice meat finely, and add to bowl. Stir well. Stir in pasta, and mix thoroughly, using your hands if necessary. 5. Chill the salad for a couple of hours or overnight, and serve, garnished with additional cilantro if desired. Yield: 6 servings. Approximate nutritional analysis per serving: 760 calories, 12 grams fat, 80 milligrams cholesterol, 635 milligrams sodium, 40 grams protein, 130 grams carbohydrate.

Quick Fixings

MAIN-DISH salads are the perfect place to stash leftovers. It is helpful, though, to keep ingredients like the following on hand for instantaneous salad creations.

Marinated mushrooms and roasted red peppers Parmigiano Reggiano and other cheeses, like goat and cheddar Capers and anchovies, Worcester shire sauce and Dijon mustard Fresh rosemary Canned tuna and salmon Pickle relish Onion and garlic Light mayonnaise Olive oil, balsamic vinegar, wine vinegar Lemons and limes Potatoes, carrots, zucchini, cauli flower Rice, pasta and other grains.