Simply, deliciously Greek


Simply, deliciously Greek

Chef-owner Yannis Papageorgiou (sitting) and maitre d' and associate owner Jimmy Baloukas with charcoal-grilled fresh red snapper; lightly fried zucchini and eggplant (arranged like a flower) and grilled vegetables.



Rating 2 1/2


6045 Victoria Ave. (near Linton St.)

Phone: 514-737-9384

Open: Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m.; Sat-Sun 4:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m.

Licensed: Yes

Credit cards: All major

Wheelchair access: Yes

Parking: Easy on surrounding streets

Vegetarian friendly: Yes

Reservations: Recommended

Price range: Starters $4.95-$24.95; main courses $16.95-$49.50 (also fish sold by the pound); desserts $2-$14.

Last week was hot and lovely, which meant that the last place I wanted to be was in a restaurant. I mean, why get gussied up to sit in a closed room when you can enjoy a bit-o-barbecue in the backyard sans makeup, sans hairdo, or even sans skivvies - if you're into that kind of thing. Of course, if one must dine out in the heat of summer, a terrasse is the way to go. But you can't just show up for a terrasse meal on a whim. No, terrasse dining calls for a minimum of planning because the good ones are usually booked in advance, and even if the others look good, chances are the food isn't as attractive as the patio furniture.

With just such foresight, I booked a terrasse table at Yannis, the popular Greek restaurant on Victoria Ave. next door to that piscine palace, New Victoria Fish. The Yannis in question is Yannis Papageorgiou, son of Frank Papageorgiou, who owns New Victoria, where you'll find some of the best smoked salmon in town. Yet excellent smoked salmon does not a meal make, so I headed to Yannis to check out the scene before committing to a table.

At lunch time, the terrasse counted a half-dozen, mostly biz-men diners. Stepping into the beige and baby-blue dining room, I was intercepted by the most genial maitre d', a fellow named Jimmy Baloukas, who showed me a menu and led me to the refrigerator case filled with clear-eyed and red-gilled snapper, pompano and Greek sardines. His enthusiasm was infectious and I quickly booked a terrasse table while eyeing the thick slabs of swordfish and tuna next to the whole specimens on ice.

Even when the dark clouds covered the restaurant and I walked past the empty, navy awning-topped terrasse that night, my spirits did not wane. Greek food tastes as good inside as out, and if ever there was a cuisine that's getting great press right now, this is it.

Greek food is not the most cutting- edge, but there's no denying its popularity. The cooking relies on simple seasonings and fresh meat, fish, seafood and vegetables. It's healthy and flavourful, and the platter-style presentation offers a convivial dining experience. Montreal counts several excellent Greek restaurants, including the elegant Vegera, the tiny Delfino, Trinity, the new Drummond St. restaurant opened by restaurateur Peter Morentzos (which has everyone buzzing), and the mighty Milos, the restaurant that introduced Montrealers to the fine-dining possibilities of a cuisine that had long been relegated to cafes and brochetteries.

Yannis ranks highly also, partly because the next-door fishmonger connection means the fish is gorgeous, but also because of the incredible service we enjoyed at the hands of Mr. Baloukas, a former owner of both Faros and Angus Noir who joined the Yannis team as a partner a month ago. His greeting couldn't have been friendlier, his menu descriptions were mouth-watering, and he allowed us to taste two wines before settling on Ambelon, a food-friendly white made with the robola grape. Hovering waiters can be a pain, but Mr. Baloukas knew when (and how) to interject and when to keep his distance. His food recommendations were also spot-on.

To begin, that classic Greek appetizer trio: grilled octopus, Greek salad and jumbo shrimp. The octopus was a fine rendition of this summertime favourite, with thick slices of charred, tentacle-laden flesh tumbled in a mix of capers and red onion. Delish.

Filled with olives, green peppers, tomatoes and feta, Yannis's "salade grecque" is a winner that could only be improved upon with local tomatoes at their peak. Yet the jumbo grilled shrimp couldn't be much better. Our plate consisted of three Ecuadorian wild sea shrimp, jumbo in size, weighing in at under six specimens per pound (U6). Juicy and resilient, these toothsome babies needed only a squirt of lemon to enhance their slightly sweet flavour. Awesome.

Papa Frank's smoked salmon is indeed as good as local foodies claim. Silky and delicate in flavour, the salmon slices literally melted in the mouth, and there was a lot of melting going on as the portion is more than generous. When available, don't miss the grilled sardines, which are moist, meaty and served solo to better appreciate the fresh taste of this usually fishy fish.

The Yannis special, fried eggplant and zucchini slices served with tzatziki and fried saganaki cheese alongside, is another must. I've had this dish at many an estiatoria, but no one does it better than Yannis. Why? Because not only are the vegetables utterly grease-free, but each slice is also puffed, which makes them impossibly light and crisp. A triumph!

Main-course options include a few meats, but why pass on the fish when it's this fresh and appealing? We chose a red snapper for two and a swordfish steak. Before each was grilled, Mr. Baloukas arrived tableside to show off the whole snapper and later the slab of swordfish. Boy, did they ever look good. Yet, sadly, neither fish wowed. I'm sure the boys in the kitchen will cringe when they read this, but both specimens were just slightly overcooked and, dare I say it, lacking in the flavour department.

Snapper needs a bit of a boost, and I think this flaky fish could have used a bigger dose of olive oil, herbs and lemon to bring it to life. Snapper also has a bit of a cottony mouthfeel when it's overcooked, which was the case here. A few minutes less on the grill and I'm sure it would have been delectable. Same goes for the swordfish. Slightly overdone and a bit dull, it was hardly the thick-sliced, golden-crusted steak I had been anticipating. Yet not all was lost with the main courses, as the dishes were served with generous portions of baked fava beans, rice pilaf and grilled peppers and oyster mushrooms - all delicious.

Come dessert time, we were holding our sides and waving white flags in surrender. But that didn't stop us from enjoying a complimentary platter of fresh fruit and thick Greek yogurt topped with cherry preserves.

I left that meal thoroughly satisfied and happy to have discovered yet another excellent Greek restaurant. So the fish was a shade overcooked. The majority of my meal was amazing. And that Mr. Baloukas is quite a character. I can hardly wait to return and wolf back a few more of those mammoth shrimp.

See you on the terrasse.

