Brass Track&Rail

Important Note:
We have recently changed the R designation of our LGB compatible G-scale track curves and switches away from an arbitrary nomenclature used by other manufacturers to a representation of the closest effective radius in feet.  So a R4 curve is a 4' radius curve, a R3 switch is a 3' radius curve.

Important Information to G-scale track
We are often asked what track to choose. It all starts out with the question for the track height code 215, 250 or 332. Some argue that code 215/250 looks more prototypical. That actually depends. Modern standard rail would be correctly code 300 if it is to scale. But what is actually 100% to scale in our hobby? Not much and for some things there are very good reasons such as operational safety.

Code 332 G-scale rail gives you just that much clearance compared to code 250 or even code 215 rail. Very often we seem to forget that none of our rolling stock is weight wise to scale. Weight is the other very important factor that determines how you car will stay on G-scale track. I have noticed in my own layout that I have less problems with engines but more problems with cars derailing, and the difference is mostly weight. There is a reason why LGB choose 3mm wheel flanges over 1.5mm.

The next question is about material Aluminium/Brass/Nickel plated Brass/Stainless Steel/Nickel Silver.

  • Aluminium is a very poor choice for track power, because its oxidizes within minutes
  • Brass is a very good conductor and oxidizes to a nice rust brown, however, needs to be regularly cleaned.
  • Nickel plated Brass has the same excellent conductivity qualities of Brass but has a 100% corrosion free coating, that eliminates the daily grind of polishing the rials. Nickel plated Brass should not be mixed up with Nickel-Silver which has tendencies to oxidize heavily. Nickel plated Brass rivals Stainless steel which often shows pitting.
  • Nickel-Silver has good conductivity but only if it is not oxidized. I personally disliked all my Nickel-Silver pieces (some specialty switches and crossings) and I am happy that they are out of the layout.
  • Stainless Steel is with the exception of pitting corrosion free. But Stainless Steel has only 1/10 of the conductivity of Brass. In addition its price is of the charts in today's market so if you are looking for the effects of Stainless Steel pick Nickel plated Brass.

Important Brass Information:

Brass is not Brass is not Brass.  And don't believe people that talk about Virgin Brass.  Brass is not a material that is found in the ground, and is not a natural product.  Brass in an Alloy made out of different material.  Two of the major components are Copper and Zinc.  The more copper is used the more "golden" brass looks.  The brighter brass is the less Copper is in there and the more Zinc.  Zinc often can be contaminated contributing to Zinc rod.  So Brass can actually pit.  Now Zinc is cheaper than Copper hence the more Zinc the cheaper the material market price but the lower the quality of the Brass.  Conductivity and durability are a factor of the Brass alloy.  Some Brass Alloys contain even lead, outlawed in many US States, but how do you know that your Brass supplier isn't it up for cost cutting.  Ask for a certified copy of the Brass Allow Chemical analysis and have them certify that this is the quality your are buying.  If they don't do this, you know you are buying inferior Brass.  TRAINLI and its suppliers (Trainline Gartenbahnen und Thiel) stand behind their Brass and we have certificates to proof it.