When it comes to dining in Sonoma, seasonally inspired California cuisine reigns. Nothing wrong with that, but when a restaurant takes a different approach it's a pleasant change of pace.

La Salette uses the best of the seasons to produce Portuguese dishes. Chef-owner Manuel Azevedo has been re-creating the food of his homeland in the 45-seat restaurant for two years.

La Salette is housed in a tiny white cottage along busy Highway 12. Customers enter through a canvas-covered patio, which also has tables for those who prefer to dine outdoors. Inside, the white walls get splashes of color from dramatic paintings of food.


Azevedo's cuisine is a study in layers of flavor and texture, and much of it is excellent. Caldo verde ($5) -- an appetizer of the Portuguese soup -- features slices of linguica and shreds of collard greens floating in a rich beef broth. It's surprisingly subtle and refined for a rustic dish.

Bolinho de bacalhau ($7.75) resembles crab cakes, but the crab is replaced with creamy salt cod, formed into cakes that are baked instead of fried. The result is delicious, although the promised cilantro aioli accompanying the three cakes tasted like commercial mayonnaise with only the slightest hint of cilantro.

The crab-filled crepes ($9.50) were disappointing because the thin pancakes were dry and seemed as if they had been reheated. But the exquisite piri-piri shrimp sauce went a long way in helping the dish.

For entrees, Mozambique prawns ($16.75) are outstanding. The plump shrimp propped around a cylinder of coconut rice are ever so slightly spicy from an intriguing rub. A sweet tomato sauce cools the heat, while crunchy peanuts and creamy sauteed plantains add texture.

We also loved the smoked wild boar ($18.75) from the list of specials. The mildly smoky flavored meat was tender, served atop white beans redolent with rosemary.


The roast duck ($17.75) failed on a couple of levels. The meat was cooked to a uniform brown throughout and tasted tough and chewy. Piped rosettes of mashed potatoes made cute accompaniments, but the barely cooked saute of cabbage, carrots and asparagus was too oily.

The restaurant offers a long list of desserts, and thankfully not one of them is the requisite creme brulee. Bolo de figos e gelado ($5.50) features thin strips of moist fig cake sandwiching vanilla ice cream. Served in a creme anglaise with swirls of chocolate, it makes a dreamy ending to the meal.

The same can't be said for the strawberries flambeed in Port ($6.50). The berries were underripe and served in another of those dry crepes.

Service at this hideaway is sweet and accommodating though occasionally lacking in some of the fundamentals. When our waitress brought the entrees, she asked, "Will there be anything else?" leaving us to point out that we had no silverware. On the other hand, they were kind enough to hold our table even when we were 45 minutes late.

Even if every dish isn't stellar, La Salette offers a unique exposure to Portuguese cuisine served in a charming setting.

18625 Highway 12 (near Siesta Way), Sonoma	 
(707) 938-1927	 
Dinner 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Open 2-9 p.m. Sunday. Beer and 
wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted. Free parking lot. 	 
   Food:	     TWO AND A HALF STARS	
   Service:	     TWO STARS	
   Atmosphere:       TWO AND A HALF STARS	
   PRICES:	     $$	
