Heartland Has Long Praised Rib-sticking U.s. Cuisine

November 7, 1985|By Jane and Michael Stern, Universal Press Syndicate

FAIRWAY, KAN. — We have heard a lot of hot air recently about the ''progress'' of American cuisine. Gastronomic experts tell us that at long last, this country has food it can be proud of, almost as good as the rest of the world. They speak of a renaissance of eating habits, cooking styles and restaurants, the implication being that everything before this new wave was nothing more than the culinary dark ages.

What a lot of bunk! American cookery has had its ups and downs, and there is no denying that the last few years have been

a wonderful time of invention and good eating. But we are two people unwilling to believe that there is anything new about the heritage of honest cooking that is our country's birthright.

American cuisine, before the modern upscale revolution, was created and defined not by chefs trained in cooking schools, but by cooks who learned how to cook in the kitchen -- by unpretentious women (and men) who used heirloom recipes, available ingredients and seat-of-their-pants ingenuity. Their goal was not to impress people with exotic combinations of things and complicated technique, but to make food that tastes good.

Doesn't that sound obvious? It's amazing how many modern celebrity chefs seem to have forgotten it.

But we know one cook who remembers. Her name is Leona Yarbrough, and she runs a restaurant in a suburb of Kansas City, Mo. Her dining room is a temple of gracious food. Kansas Citians come to eat egg salad sandwiches on whole wheat, turkey divan on English muffins, and apple pie with a lattice crust made the old-fashioned way, with lard. Her menu is the antithesis of chic, which is why her booths and tables are such a haven for all who crave a good square meal.

Although thrill seekers won't find excitement in the seafood tetrazzini or braised lamb shank with mint jelly, such normalcy makes our hearts throb. This food, which is absolutely fresh, from scratch, and as homey as any granny's, is portioned out modestly, in pretty floral patterned plates. And it tastes like it should, because Leona, whose reputation has evolved over 37 years of good food, is a master.

Many of the daily mimeographed menus list a nostalgic taste of yesteryear called prune whip. This froth of shredded prunes suspended in a cushion of whipped egg whites used to be included in nearly every American cookbook. But it's rare to find it now, as it cannot compete in sinfulness and decadence with triple-midnight chocolate mousse cake.


1 1/3 cups pitted prunes

1/3 cup water

1/3 cup sugar

1 tsp lemon juice

1 tsp vanilla extract

6 egg whites, room temperature

1/4 tsp cream of tartar

Chopped pecans and/or whipped cream as garnish

Simmer prunes in water 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until liquid is absorbed. Drain and puree prunes (or chop them very fine). Mix in sugar until it dissolves. Add lemon juice and vanilla.

Preheat oven to 300 F degrees.

Beat egg whites until frothy, add cream of tartar and beat until stiff. Fold prunes quickly but thoroughly into egg whites and pour into buttered and sugared 2-quart baking dish.

Bake 25-30 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve immediately, topped with chopped pecans and/or whipped cream. (Prune whip deflates as it cools, but it tastes quite all right served cool with whipped cream.)

Makes 6 servings.

Leona Yarbrough: 2800 W. 53rd, Fairway, Kan. (913) 722-4800. (Kansas restaurant)

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