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  1. Indeed they are for both extruders. Since they sell a machine that uses both extruders equals, they don’t have a Marlin (on the printerboard) that allows differebt esteps for each extruder. A hotfix could be to use the search & replace postprocess to add the esteps gcode after each T0 or T1. But not sure if you can actually save all the settings / plugs on a profile or work job, so it might get quite tedious to do that every day. On S3D you could do that, but since last um3 firmware update S3D default profiles fails and probably s3d will have to update their profiles. Will look into it. What do you mean UM3 fails with S3D with the latest firmware? As I do run the latest firm and S3D and it is all good (besides the quality issues I experience but this is no matter the Slicer even with CURA have issues ).
  2. The directory is this one : " /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines " and the following files are there "1797.json 9066.json 9404.json 9502.json 9507.json 9511.json hotend_eeprom_data jedi.hex um3.json watto.json" I found the extruder default steps in "um3.json" but apparently the extruder steps configuration are global ( for both extruders ).
  3. Reviving an old topic but I need some help here guys. I need to calibrate the steps of my UM3 unfortunately I could not find "jedi.json" but there is "jedi.hex" instead does that mean I need to download the file and edit it using hex editor ( as I am not quite sure will that be the proper way to go ).
  4. Thanks for the suggestions guys. Currently I did enable the Dev mode connected with SSH and was trying some commands. What seems weird is the behavior when moving the Z and Y axis ( somehow I do not have problem with the X ). For example: I send "G1 X10" so the X axis should be moved 10mm (1cm) that works fine but when I need to move lets say Y axis with the same command "G1 Y10" it does not move 10mm but instead from home position goes all the way trying to hit itself :Dsomething similar happens with the Z axis. I am not sure what I do wrong in that case. I have been looking up the RepRapWiki for all the commands and explonation with them. Also if you moved ahead axis with 10mm how you move it back with 10mm tried negative value did not work quite well :/ @Connect3d: Yes if you are using active leveling there will be clicking noise coming out off the Z axis. @robinmdh: Thanks the info was of a big help! @Nicolinux: Everything was solved by tightening the screws and pulleys I am sorry to say that I am not satisfied with the re-seller here in Denmark at all... EDIT: I figured it out, basically with the Y axis if I want to move it only 5mm need to use G0 Y210 ( as to total distance for Y is 215 so placing the Y at 210 means it should be moved 5mm ) same goes for the Z, so negative values do not work here. Figured that out by homing with "sendgcode G28" and "sendgcode M114" to get current position.
  5. Thanks for the replies. I am experiencing some problems with the ultimaker3, having it for like week or two. The reason why I wanted to try remote control is because I could hear some clicking sounds when it is printing. Wanted to determine is it something on the Y axis or X axis. As with octoprint you can move each one of the axis with different speed, distance etc. I did find out that simply most of the screws holding the side panels where not tighten as well as I needed to move one of the pulleys towards the right panel of the printer. The clicking was reduced (it did not go away completely) but then I saw that the belt of the Y axis stepper is touching the cabling on the Y endstop. Getting rounded edges on squares not sure is it because all of this. I have been working with few different brands of 3D printers never experienced something like this out of the box. Not sure should I start topic somewhere else in the forum because of this.
  6. Is it possible and is it a good idea using octoprint with the Ultimaker 3 or there is another way to remote control it. The reason why I am asking is I have noticed it is pretty limited for a manual control.
  7. Hello guys. I have a problem I cant get rid off. Every square object I am printing has a rounder corners. I have tried different infill, speed, temperature every time result is the same.
  8. Here is a picture Not from my printer and it does not look so bad but similar. Not sure how to explain it. No matter how many times I am leveling the bed manually or using the auto level always comes like this. I am still using the original ultimaker filament the printer came with. Yes I do use latest cura 2.7 will check the setting!
  9. I am trying to get as best prints as possibleon my UM3. Unfortunately I cannot get rid of the Z seam. Did try the random Z seam alignment on Cura but all it does is to spread the Z seam around ( looking like blobs ). The Z seam is notices on the inside and on the outside hope it can be seen well! Print pics: 1 2 3 Profile Settings: 1 2 3
  10. Thanks for the video! It did clear up some of the things I was not sure about still getting slight edge on the first layer but will repeat the process again and will see how it is going to turn out!
  11. Hello everybody! Happy to be part of the ultimaker family! Finally I got myself Ultimaker 3. Setting it up was relatively easy and I am really satisfied from the out of the box quality. But I have some leveling problems. I am having elephant feet issue. I did try the active leveling mode but after it kept happening I decided to go for manual still same issue. I looked up some guides around but I could not find any fix for it. Another thing is that first later is not perfectly flat but I guess this goes to the same reason why the elephant feet appear.
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