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Why double cleansing is an important skincare step in fighting acne

In this edition of our Skincare Alphabet series, we talk about double cleansing, the anti-acne, anti-ageing skincare step that you should not be skipping

Double cleansing is a pretty self-explanatory term—it is a two-step process to rid skin of all makeup and surface impurities, and deeply cleanse it too. It involves two cleansers with distinct purposes that are used in a specific order. Popularised by Japanese and Korean women and advertised naturally by their glassy, translucent skin, this multi-step cleansing ritual became a skincare phenomenon all over the world in 2016 and 2017. Here, we tell you why it's here to stay.

double cleansing

Why you should add double cleansing to your skincare routine

A quick wash-and-go (or a swipe of a face wipe) might feel easy after a long day (or a long night out), but if you have heavy makeup like mascara, concealer and foundation on you face, double cleansing will ensure you get it all off. This will dislodge long-wear makeup and pollution, which, if left overnight, won't allow skin cells to regenerate well enough. Double cleansing also brightens the complexion and sloughs away any dead skin cells that don't reflect light, or are on the surface—leaving a layer of new and ready skin cells that accept serums, moisturisers and products with active ingredients (like retinol) most effectively. The massage also encourages circulation in the lymphatic system, allowing for toning and lifting of the skin. But the best part of it all? It becomes a powerful self care skincare ritual that feels calming and nurturing at the end of the day.

The precautions you need to take with double cleansing

If your skin is too dry or sensitive, make sure you aren't cleansing overzealously. Pick hydrating cleansers for the second step, and give your skin a break from double cleansing when you haven't applied makeup or sunscreen. The skincare step is ideal if your skin is super oily, and your regular cleanser isn't removing enough sebum, but a stronger one is leaving the skin dry and tight. Too much cleansing (more than twice a day, that is) can damage the moisture barrier of the skin, so stay away from anything more than a light morning rinse and a nightly double cleanse.

The double cleanse process: Step 1

The first step is to remove makeup using oil-based cleansing products, like a cleansing oil or cleansing balm. These products attach themselves to long-wearing makeup to lift it off of your face, including the molecules that a water-based cleanser can't ‘grab' and pull out because water and oil don't mix. The best way to use an oil-based cleanser is to start with dry hands and dry skin, warm the cleanser between your fingertips and then massage into your face. Rinse with cool water, or use a warm, wet cloth for thorough removal. Micellar water also works in a similar manner, because it is made of microscopic oil molecules called micelles that are suspended in a liquid. They attach to grime, dirt and makeup and can pull it out easily. If you're choosing to use micellar water, it is best used by pouring on a cotton pad, which can be swiped on the eyes and face until there is no trace of makeup or colour left on the pad.

If your concern is anti-ageing, using an oil-based cleanser can reduce the appearance of fine lines and photoageing over time, because they contain fatty molecules that can plump up and deeply hydrate the skin. If you're fighting dryness, oil will provide the boost your hydration levels need, and if acne is the bane of your skin, it'll help sort that too. Now, you're probably nervous about adding more oil to the mix if you're prone to pimples, but keep in mind that greasy products, like a light balm or micellar water, will rid skin of acne-causing excess oil and oil-based impurities because oil attracts oil.

Dermalogica's PreCleanse is the ultimate makeup remover—it melts away makeup and dirt with rice bran, white olive and Vitamin E oils, while leaving skin soothed and plumped. If you prefer a creamier emulsion, the Dior Hydra Life Oil to Milk Makeup Removing Cleanser emulsifies into a milk when in contact with water, so makeup is whisked up without having to tug or scrub the face. For congested pores, the Innisfree Green Tea Cleansing Oil hydrates while decongesting and removing even the most stubborn makeup, and the Bioderma Crealine Micellar Water is a must-have if you use waterproof mascara. The Eve Lom cleansing balm has clove oil to target blemishes, eucalyptus oil to target toxins, chamomile oil to soften and cocoa butter to condition too. But if you're looking for a truly luxurious experience, use the Omorovicza cotton cleansing mitt to wipe off the Thermal Cleansing Balm, which employs Hungarian moor mud to detoxify and orange blossom oil to moisturise.

The double cleanse process: Step 2

Now that all the makeup is removed, the second cleanse works to go deeper to purify the skin. This cleanser can be used to target your specific skincare concerns, like dryness or breakouts. Here, a water-soluble cream, gel, or lotion cleanser works best. Massage this into your skin to let the active ingredients do their job, and rinse with cold water. This is the step to use a cleansing device (like the Clarisonic or Foreo) to massage the skin. After the second step, apply a toner or mist to tone and rebalance the skin.

For a great anti-acne cleanser, look no further than the Neutrogena Naturals Purifying Facial Cleanser as it has a low pH, which is antibacterial and therefore great for acne-prone skin. It won't leave skin dry or tight, but it will feel super clean. The La Roche Posay Cleansing Gel transforms into a light milk on contact with water, which cleanses while hydrating. For normal skin, the Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser rebalances the skin mantle without stripping the skin. And if you're prone to fine lines and dryness, reach for the Shiseido Benefiance Extra Creamy Cleansing Foam, which has bio-hyaluronic acid to plump and hydrate skin.

Scroll through the gallery below to take a look at all the beauty products you can add to your vanity to include double cleansing in your skincare regimen.

Also read:

The makeup removers that you need in your skincare kit this party season

How to detox your skincare and makeup routine after heavy-duty partying

What you need to know about skincare if you use makeup frequently

This is what happens to your skin when you sleep with makeup on

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