Wednesday, January 17, 2007

Grinding Out New Ideas
with Nut Butters, Pastes and Flours

From breakfast to dessert, and all the meals and snacks in between, nut ingredients give foods appealing taste, texture and appearance. Some nuts, such as black walnuts, have a very distinct flavor, whereas the flavor of almonds is more delicate. Suppliers can modify the flavor of a base nut by processes such as dry or oil roasting and smoking. A coarse grind produces nut meal; a finer grind results in nut flour. Nuts can also be ground into spreadable butters, or sweetened to form pastes. Innovative products result from creative selection of the nut variety, the process and form.

Health nuts

Once considered a limited foodstuff due to high oil content—dry roasted almonds have 52.8 grams per 100-gram serving and English walnuts have 65.2 grams per 100- gram serving—nuts and seeds are now getting attention for health benefits. With the resurgence of low-carbohydrate diets several years ago, nuts gained popularity over other snack foods for their relatively low level of carbohydrate per serving. Since then, mounting evidence shows nuts provide more health benefits for what they do contain.

As of 2003, labels can bear a qualified health claim relating nuts and the reduced risk of heart disease for almonds, hazelnuts, peanuts, pecans, some pine nuts, pistachios and walnuts for whole nuts and nut-containing products. These must deliver 11 grams of nuts per reference amount customarily consumed, and meet additional nutritional requirements, such as limited amounts of saturated fat for whole and chopped nuts. Nut-containing products must not exceed limits for saturated fat, total fat, cholesterol and sodium, and must contain at least 10% of the daily value of select nutrients.

More recently, researchers found a Mediterranean-style diet incorporating a daily allowance of nuts favorably affects cardiovascular-health markers. Ramon Estruch, et al., published their results in the Annals of Internal Medicine in July 2006 (145(1):1-11). They report that subjects following the Mediterranean-style diet enjoyed lower blood glucose levels, systolic blood pressure, and cholesterol to high-density lipoprotein (HDL) cholesterol ratio, compared to subjects on a low-fat diet.

Almond options

Almond-based ingredients add flavor and texture to a broad spectrum of products. Almond flour can partially replace wheat flour to reduce carbohydrate content and improve flavor and texture, or can be the only flour ingredient when gluten formation is not necessary. “French macaroons are an interesting way to use almond flour exclusively,” says Harbinder Maan, manager of foodservice and industrial marketing, Almond Board of California, Modesto. “You don’t need the gluten from wheat flour in this application, because the egg white in the batter binds it together.” The classic recipe for macaroons is almond flour, egg whites and sugar.

Almond butter, a popular alternative to peanut butter, is finding its way from specialty stores to mainstream grocers. Almonds are ground and blended with a small amount of almond or vegetable oil for a spreadable consistency, says Maan. Like natural peanut butter, stirring almond butter reincorporates the oil after standing. An interesting extension is smoked-almond butter made with smoked almonds.

Almond paste generally consists of a blend of equal amounts of ground almonds and sugar, and can also contain almond extract for heightened flavor. Almond paste is used in baked goods, and is the main component of almond cream and frangipane, an almond pastry cream. Marzipan is similar to almond paste, but not interchangeable. A description from the Almond Board of California gives the sugar content of marzipan as 60% to 80%, making it sweeter and weaker in flavor than paste.

Walnut selections

In 2004, “SuperFoods Rx” by Dr. Steven Pratt identified walnuts as one of the 14 superfoods. Walnuts contain 2.6 grams of the omega-3 fatty acid alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) per ounce, as well as a number of compounds with antioxidant activity. In March 2004, FDA allowed a qualified health claim for whole and chopped walnuts indicating a potential for reduced risk of coronary heart disease.

Amy G. Myrdal, R.D., director of marketing, Walnut Marketing Board, Sacramento, CA, explains that as consumers become increasingly aware of the health benefits of walnuts, they are seeking products that contain them. The type selected depends on the walnut flavor and color desired in the application. “Walnut color ranges from light to dark. Lighter walnuts tend to have a sweeter flavor, while darker walnuts tend to have a stronger flavor. Lighter walnuts are typically used for baking, while darker walnuts are used in ice cream and confectionary.”

Walnuts blended in smoothies add nutritional value and a signature flavor. One concept from the Walnut Marketing Board suggests using walnuts in a banana smoothie, the tried-and-true banana bread-combination.

On the upscale side, Ethan Stowell, chef-owner, Union, Seattle, developed a savory application for walnut purée for the Walnut Marketing Board. Toasted walnuts are puréed with olive oil and seasoned with chives, salt and pepper. The seasoned purée is then plated and topped with grilled branzino, an Italian sea bass. The richness of the walnut purée is balanced with a salad of English pea sprouts and radishes atop the fish.

Peanut versatility

No discussion of nut butters would be complete without information on the popular peanut. Technically speaking, the peanut is a legume, not a nut, but shares the same applications as tree nuts, and in some cases pioneered them. Most commercially prepared peanut butters contain emulsifiers that prevent separation, unlike natural peanut butter and other nut butters. Peanut butter is widely used as a sandwich spread with jelly or honey, but more-creative combinations include bananas, mayonnaise and even pickles. For savory applications, peanut butter adds richness to hot and sweet Asian sauces. Peanut butter cups of chocolate are a standalone treat, or can act as an inclusion in ice cream. Peanut butter can also be used in ice cream as a variegate.

Peanut flour is primarily used for flavor, protein content and fat control, and, in some products, color, explains Bruce A. Kotz, vice president, specialty products, Golden Peanut Company, LLC, Alpharetta, GA. He says that the largest applications for peanut flour are nutritional bars and snack bars, followed by peanut-butter-filled confections, coatings and drops. “We are seeing more and more interest in peanut and peanut butter seasonings for snack foods and entrées,” he says. “Asian flavors are hot right now, and providing a dry method of adding a nice, roasted flavor is achievable by using peanut flours. They are all natural, GMO free, kosher and have a clean label, as they are made from 100% peanuts.” An organic line of peanut flours will be available next year. “We produce our peanut flours out of U.S. high-oleic peanuts, which are the most-stable peanuts in the world,” he says. “Using the high-oleic peanuts assures that the raw material is stable, as is our customer’s finished product.”

Peanut flour can be selected for specific applications based on fat content and the degree of roasting. Peanut flour is free flowing and mixes well like any other flour, according to Kotz, and is sometimes chosen over peanut butter for ease of handling. The fat content of peanut butter is typically in the 50% neighborhood, while peanut flours can range from nearly 0% fat for defatted types up to around 30% fat.

In working with peanut flour, Kotz notes that “baking temperatures can break down the peanut flavor. Therefore, we advise keeping the peanut flour away from high temperature if at all possible. Most of the popular applications are at low temperatures or have no thermal processing.”

Indulgent hazelnuts

Hazelnuts, also known as filberts, are crunchy and have a flavor that pairs particularly well with chocolate and coffee. “Hazelnuts are valued for their ultra-indulgent flavor and upscale appeal, but they are also one of the most-nutritious nuts,” says Vicki Nesper, supervisor, marketing communications, the Hazelnut Council Inc., Jersey City, NJ. “They are an excellent source of vitamin E and are one of the best nut sources of heart-healthy monoun-saturated fatty acids per serving, and hazelnuts have the lowest percentage of saturated fat.” Per 100 grams, blanched, shelled hazelnuts have 17.5 grams vitamin E, 4.7 grams saturated fat and 48.2 grams monounsaturated fat. “Healthy indulgences, like dark chocolate and hazelnuts, give the consumer ‘permission to indulge,’” she continues. “According to our consumer attitude study, 75% say a food with dark chocolate and hazelnuts would be both healthy and indulgent.”

According to Nesper, hazelnut butter adds richness and flavor to many savory, bakery, snack, frozen dessert and confection items. Hazelnut butter adds a richer, fuller flavor to sauces and soups, and a sweet, nutty flavor to baked goods. She adds that hazelnut paste is sweetened. The paste is spreadable and “adds body, sweetness, flavor, moisture and a creamy mouthfeel to any formulation,” she notes. When blended with chocolate, hazelnut praline and paste can lower the melting point for a creamier mouthfeel. Hazelnut flour and meal add flavor, but also thicken sauces and fillings and are used in confections and ice cream.

Other nutty alternatives

A wide range of other nuts and nutlike ingredients add options to the spreadable-nut sprectrum.

Chestnuts. Although we roast the whole nut over an open fire, as the song goes, chestnut-derived ingredients are also traditional. Chestnuts taste sweet and starchy compared to other nuts due to high carbohydrate levels—dried European chestnuts contain 78% carbohydrate compared to 19% carbohydrate in dry-roasted almonds. Italian cooks refer to the flour as farina, and use it in desserts or as a thickener for sauces. Chestnut purée accompanies game such as venison, and is a versatile ingredient in European cooking. The purée is also the main ingredient in chestnut cream, a sweetened, vanilla-flavored version used in desserts.

Pine nuts. If the P in pesto doesn’t stand for pine nut, it should. Italian dishes use these delicately flavored, sweet nuts whole, but they are also ground as an essential pesto ingredient. Pine nuts are also referred to as piñon, pignolia or pinyon. The term “pine nut” refers to the nuts of several different species of pine trees. Therefore, European pine nuts differ somewhat from Asian.

Pistachios. These nuts are valued for their color as well as their flavor. Their green color results from chlorophyll, and characterizes pistachio puddings and ice cream. These applications typically use chopped pistachios. Pistachio powder provides color and flavor in Indian desserts such as barfi, similar to cheesecake. Middle Eastern cuisine uses pistachio paste in a simular way that European dishes use almond paste.

Soybeans. Like peanuts, soybeans are legumes, and soy butter has been poised as a substitute for peanut butter for those who have peanut allergies or seek soybeans’ health benefits, such as phytochemicals and ALA, an omega-3 fatty acid. Internationally, soybean paste appears most frequently in the form of miso, a fermented paste of soybeans and rice or other grains. Miso’s flavor depends on the substrate and the length of the aging process. Soy flour can work as a partial replacement for wheat flour to increase baked goods’ protein levels.

Seeds. Some seed ingredients, including pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds and sunflower seeds, share nuts’ applications. In southern Mexican cooking, pumpkin seeds, or pepitas, thicken mole sauces and give them a nutty flavor. Sesame seeds are also toasted for mole, or can be ground into a butter. The sesame-seed butter, tahini, is used in hummus, baba ghanouj and sauces. Tahini also works as a spread, or in cream soups. Sunflower seeds ground into butter provide a peanutbutter replacement, particularly for those allergic to peanuts and/or tree nuts. Sesame-seed paste can substitute for peanut butter in baked goods, and in various foods for tahini. It also can flavor Asian stir frys and appetizers.

As consumers look for products that combine good flavor and good taste, ingredients from nuts give product designers a wide range of creative and delicious options.

Wednesday, January 03, 2007


Even the most strident zero trans fat proponents couldn’t have predicted how rapidly the foodservice industry would move to address their concerns. Seemingly overnight, thousands of restaurants have voluntarily removed trans fat-laden items from their menus and kitchens. Those who haven’t find themselves wondering what enforcement of the trans fat ban in New York City (and soon, elsewhere) is going to mean. If only we had all been smart enough to have bought canola oil futures on the Winnipeg Commodities Exchange last year!

Big restaurant corporations move cautiously whenever they make changes to their menus. They tinker with new ideas and products in-house for months or even years, then run them past consumer focus groups for additional feedback, eventually introducing them in a handful of test markets to see how they work in day-to-day operations. Only when items and ingredients have passed these tests will company executives give the OK to implement any changes systemwide. If you have hundreds of restaurants and you’re making an ingredient change that will affect the taste, texture, smell and mouth-feel of perhaps dozens of your menu times, you want to tread very, very carefully.

Even so, look at Denny’s, Red Lobster, Olive Garden, Wendy’s, Chili’s and Au Bon Pain. Chains are getting rid of, or at least cutting way back on, trans fat at what seems like mind-bending pace. Hotel operator like Loews are following suit. Few companies want to wait around until rule makers and legislators mandate the change for them.

Why? "It just makes sense and it’s the right time to go that way," says Christina Findley, F&B director at the Loews Vanderbilt in Nashville says. "There’s really not a reason to have ’trans fats’ anymore. They were developed to make food more shelf-stable, but with modern distribution, it’s less of a concern."

What does concern operators is the performance of zero-trans fat (ZTF) products, particularly frying oil. While their announcement came suddenly, the people at Darden Restaurants, for example, had to be convinced that any new oil would perform equally well in all 1,267 of its Red Lobster and Olive Garden North American units before making a switch. "We have been testing for more than 18 months in restaurants all around the country with a variety of different frying oils," Darden director of communications Deborah Robinson told the Orlando Sentinel. "In the first phase of testing, we found some oils just didn’t produce the flavors we expected. When you’re making a wholesale change, this is not a slam dunk when you just substitute an oil." In the end, the company opted for a ZTF canola oil product.

Foodservice manufacturers, who saw this coming but are perhaps surprised at how rapidly it took hold, have been quick to respond to operator concerns. Big companies like General Mills, Sara Lee, ConAgra and others now provide viable options for many products, including alternative frying oils. But perhaps the biggest news to date has come from potato processing giant McCain Foods. More than 50 products currently sold in the foodservice sector by McCain are now available with zero grams trans fat and all of the company’s foodservice French fry and potato products will be zero grams trans fat in 12 months. The company took out a full-page ad in a recent Sunday edition of the New York Times to herald its commitment to zero trans fat products.

Fellow French fry giant Lamb Weston was ahead of the game, too. It now offers several lines of no trans fat products.

Why is this a big deal? One problem operators faced in offering zero trans fat French fries-let’s face it, French fries are the No. 1 target of the ZTF movement-was that doing so gave them a double-barreled challenge. Changing a restaurant’s deep frying oil to a zero trans fat option was one step that had to be taken. But French fries purchased from foodservice manufacturers are par-fried at the factory level using oil that, until lately, contained trans fats. The steps taken by McCain and others solves the second part of the equation.

It’s certainly a big deal to operators in New York City, because that’s where the country’s first ban on trans fat will take effect soon. Actually, the ban is already in effect, but enforcement hasn’t started yet.

It will in July, 2007. Penalties are expected to range from $200 to $2,000 per offense. City officials have promised its inspectors will give restaurants a three-month grace period-i. e., restaurants will be inspected and offenders will be written up, but they will be allowed time to come into compliance and avoid fines. After the grace period, justice will be swift.

And expensive. New York City health inspectors are famous for shall we put this...vigorous enforcement of the city’s laws. Roughly 20 percent of New York City restaurants fail their annual health inspections, with recent flunkees including legendary operations like Brooklyn steakhouse Peter Luger’s and the Carnegie Deli, as well as such temples of gastronomy as David Bouley’s Bouley and Daniel Boulud’s Daniel. New York City restaurants paid $37.6 million in