“Broadway Suit” Collection

The “Broadway Suit” collection  was inspired by George Gershwin’s Porgy and Bess, the first American opera and source of the well-known song “Summertime” (which led to numerous jazz covers). The opera recounts the hardship that the black community in the American South experienced during the 1930s, notably the economic crisis and drug addiction. Yves Saint Laurent also paid tribute to the elegant women of Harlem dressed in their Sunday best.

Mounia, YSL's 'Porgy and Bess' mannequin, got ovations every time she sauntered out on the runway in another version of the spencer jacket. When she finally strolled out in long black satin gloves, bowler hat with tulle veil and diamante stars, and a knee-length, black embroidered chiffon dance dress, it was like an opening night... YSL wants the woman to decide if she's going to wear her spencer over a long or short black tuxedo skirt, tuxedo pants, or a long crepe satin or mousseline flounced skirt.

Andre Leon Talley, Women’s Wear Daily, January 26, 1978.