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Twitch de la Brat

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Everything posted by Twitch de la Brat

  1. I second Heartless' statement. I've had Beldon (Napa), BWD (Borg Warner), ID, (Import Direct), all fail on me, in multiple cars. NGK is the only aftermarket (which is the OEM manufacturer for Subaru) that has ever lasted. So I second it being a possible wire problem. Twitch
  2. Twitch de la Brat

    Clutch Kit Question

    LUK is who supplies Napa, and while I worked there, I never had any return under warranty that weren't blatantly abused/oil soaked. So I'd take that as a good sign. I typically went with Sachs for my clutch kits, but idk if they're still Japanese/German made. Twitch
  3. Twitch de la Brat


    That's a neat idea, until you think about the bellhousing adaptation required for it. Then the weight and the suspension requirements that go along. And then the dimension issue of getting it under the hood and behind the bumper. Neat idea, but no more practical than importing a Subaru diesel. Twitch
  4. Twitch de la Brat

    1982 GLF Coupe windshield help needed

    If your original gasket is still in good shape, you can reuse it. If you hit it with a glycerine wipedown, it'll help keep it nice and soft. Also, as far as I know, the 2nd Gen BRAT and EA81 Coupe were essentially the same car from the A pillar forward. So a BRAT gasket or windshield should be the same. Twitch
  5. 96 OBW with a 5sp and 2.2, and as upgraded of a trim package as you can get on it. I liked it in blue. 2.2 Is non-interference, 5sp came with hill holder (last year available in that generation), and it has an actual "lift" on it compared to the 95 OBW, which was just a trim package. Twitch
  6. Twitch de la Brat

    Won't start after rebuild

    Remember, 1-3-2-4, counter clockwise. Doesn't matter which contact is cyl 1 as long as you follow that order. Twitch
  7. Welcome! Lucky for you, pretty much all the parts are identical between the RHD and LHD models. So junkyard scrounging will be easy to get parts for the new monster. There's quite the repository of information here to peruse, so do all the reading you want. Some quick tips on your current car: It is most likely not JDM, it's probably a postal vehicle. That EJ22 is a non-interference engine, so if you happen to lose a timing belt, nothing is lost aside from the parts to replace the timing belt. Since it's probably an automatic, a manual swap is pretty easy, and the pedal boxes will swap no problem. And a traditional Subaru thing, if it's leaking a fluid, it just means it's not out of that fluid. And don't wash your engine bay. It'll make any leaks you have, worse. Twitch
  8. Twitch de la Brat

    Won't start after rebuild

    Can of seafoam and fresh gas in the tank. It'll clear any varnish/gunk from the fuel delivery system. I didn't get to view the YouTube video yet, is it carbureted or fuel injected? Twitch
  9. Twitch de la Brat

    Metal scraping sound near pulleys

    Use a vice grip and the old belt to hold it in place once you get it close to set, or get a helper to hold it. Another option (not exactly recommended, but a possible solution) is to count how many teeth off the cam gear is, then set your crank gear that many teeth off and set the belt that way. Rotate the engine to check alignment at TDC after attempting this. Twitch
  10. Twitch de la Brat

    Metal scraping sound near pulleys

    If you have a manual, put it in a gear, set the ebrake and wheel chock both sides of a front tire. Crank down on the bolt until it locks down tight. I think it's supposed to be set to 140 ft-lbs. So just bounce on the breaker bar a couple times and you should be fine. If you have an automatic, you can try setting a prybar against the starter teeth on the torque converter, but that's risky. Not entirely sure how we did it previously without dismounting the transmission and engine from each other. Twitch
  11. Just so you know, when under suction with the thermostat in, the one of the hoses could be collapsing. Twitch
  12. I'm going to start with the stupid, easy to overlook stuff. I do this to myself, so don't be insulted. Have you checked your fans to see if they're plugged in? Are the wires broken or cut to the fan? Have to checked your hoses to make sure they're not collapsing while under load/suction? Did you replace your radiator cap? Did you replace your water pump on your last timing belt change? Did you make sure your coolant isn't disappearing? Does the coolant level in your overflow tank fluctuate dramatically between hot and cold operation? Beyond the normal range indicated on the reservoir. Have you tried filling up the coolant system by filling the block then the radiator? Are you using the right mixture of coolant to water? Did you lose a rag when you were doing any of this work on it? Questions to ponder. Twitch
  13. Twitch de la Brat

    late model 5MT into 99 Outback?

    So, I was doing some reading, and there's a possibility that you could get the stub shafts from a 4EAT to plug into the axle holes and then hook your axles onto those. If the transmission width is close enough with the stubs plugged in, then you'll just have to make sure to find a transmission with a mechanical center diff (they switched to a multiplate clutch system on the newest manuals) and then a wiring diagram to make an adapter to plug your wiring harness into. Twitch
  14. Twitch de la Brat

    late model 5MT into 99 Outback?

    An easier option would be an older 5 speed from first gen Legacies. A little research can net you a decent mileage transmission with the right gear ratio, and no axle swapping required. I got a 4.111 geared 5sp from a 94 Legacy, for my old 90 Lego auto swap. Also, the 6 bolt vs 4 bolt bellhousing isn't an issue for your transmission, just skip the middle two bolts. Twitch PS: Axle lengths will be the bane of your existence with the newer transmission type. Trying to match that could be quite the headache.
  15. Twitch de la Brat

    wanted EA-71 good engine

    A note for you Mkiester, the EA81 and EA71 "Fat Case" are the essentially the same engine, but with different bores and strokes. The only EA71 that will make a difference in your idea is the "slim case" or "first edition" EA71. The easiest way to decipher which is which is that the "slim" has the starter bump directly on the top, the "fat" has the starter bump off to the side. Twitch
  16. This is the 2.5 engine, correct? There will be double marks on the cam pulleys, line them up with each other. The lower pulley marks should be facing upwards, the upper pulley marks facing downwards. The passenger side pulleys will stay in place without issue, but the driver's side pulleys will fight you and try to jump. My recommendation is to get the belt around the passenger side pulleys first, then work it around to the driver's side pulleys, finally settling all your slack where the tensioner bolts in place. Start the bolt on the tensioner before you apply any tension to the tensioner. Also, if you have the hydraulic tensioner and didn't slowly compress the tensioner pin over the course of several minutes, you fubar'd the internals and will need to replace it. Otherwise you WILL be replacing an engine. Remember, if you're unsure about the engine timing being right, crank it over by hand FIRST. DO NOT USE THE STARTER. If you come to any spots that it stops and feels like something other than compression, DON'T KEEP PUSHING. Back it off and check your timing marks after getting the engine back to top dead center (crank on the alignment mark). Twitch
  17. Twitch de la Brat

    Help! Tell me about where to add tranny fluid

    It's actually GL-4 80w90 and it does make a difference whether you use GL-5 or GL-4. GL-5 will eat your brass synchros. The local Schaeffer's oil rep had good success putting Harley primary gear oil into NV-4500 transmissions (which call for GL-4 as well), which handle far more power and torque than our little boxes will ever see. Also, primary gear oil is a lot cheaper than sourcing proper GL-4. Check with your local Schaeffer's oil guy, Amsoil, or whatever specialty gear oil company you like to get it. Your synchros will thank you. Twitch PS: I did the GL-5 route and was rev matching to prevent grind in less than 20k miles.
  18. Twitch de la Brat


    So, I picked up a really nice travel trailer that I currently live in. Unfortunately, the OBW's towing capacity doesn't come close to being able to pull it. So I need a truck. My current options I've been looking at are a Tundra/Sequoia 08-10, Avalanche 02-06, or a Silverado/Sierra 03-06 (07 Classic). They all have a towing capacity above my trailer's gross weight (7700lbs) and meet the reliability and comfort criteria. The real question comes down to, is it worth the extra markup for the Toyotas? Because I'd love to have 10k lbs towing with a supercharged 5.7 pumping out over 500Ft-lbs. But is it worth the extra $$$? Thoughts? Twitch
  19. Twitch de la Brat

    Help! Ea81 wont turn over.

    Leave the hood up and aircleaner off in a rain storm? If not, headgasket time. Which, honestly, you'd need to do to get more power out of it either way. And just so you know, these engines are stupid simple and can make better power with a cam change and a little tweaking. Look at the thread I linked further up. That's my build, and after it was all said and done, I was probably no more than $800 in, with the extensive machine work and replacement parts. Twitch
  20. There are coolant lines that run to the turbo. Replace all of those now, as they will look like a James Bond stunt when they pop, and then your engine won't like you any more. They're 10mm if I remember correctly, and route through some very tedious locations. You might even need a lift to replace them. Also, if it hasn't been mentioned, factory turbo cars are MPFI, not TBI or SPFI. As for the heater problems, it seems that you may need to disassemble the heater switch part of the dash and do a little brass brushing on some contacts. Hope you can get it to stay running. Twitch
  21. Twitch de la Brat

    Help! Ea81 wont turn over.

    The EA81 won't swap into the RX without almost as much modding as the EJ, so just stick with the EJ to RX swap. More power with more reliability. The EA81 to EJ only nets more power. Twitch
  22. Twitch de la Brat

    Help! Ea81 wont turn over.

    As someone who owns both, you moved from one of Subaru most robust engines, to one of their biggest problem children ever built. Check your coolant like an obsessive helicopter mom. Watch your temp gauge like your life depends on it never going over the 3/4 mark. Keep good oil in it or suffer the consequences of a gummed turbo oil passage. Replace all your hoses if they even seem slightly soft. Get an OEM thermostat from Subaru. Start preparing for a headgasket or engine rebuild now. Get a spare set of timing belts and timing gears to keep in the trunk/hatch. And everything is going to be different for this than your EA81. This is the breed of monster that even the most dedicated Subaru nuts have said "f*ckit" to. And owning one, I know exactly why. Twitch
  23. Ok, car in the discussion: 2007 Outback Wagon 2.5i basic. Meaning, this thing literally has no options. It's essentially a new age Brighton model. Manual, no traction control, lucky to have AC and power windows. Also, 16" wheels, not the standard 17" wheels literally every other trim level got. Anyway, onto the point! I have been researching and reading up on anti-sway bars, new springs, possible lift kits, and adjustable sway bar links, all in the goal of getting my car to stop lifting the inside wheel on hard cornering. A couple times (ok, more than a couple) I've had issues with the front inside tire lift and skitter when planting around a corner at WOT. This is a royal pain, as the onramp onto the freeway from my work is a hairpin with almost no run up. So, if I might pick the brains of my fellow Subaru enthusiasts, would an adjustable rear anti-sway bar with matching adjustable links solve my problem? Or would it be recommended to get new springs and struts with it? And then comes the snowball. Should I lift it while I'm down there replacing all the bits? Because the cost of a lift kit over factory replacement isn't much more, and I'd like the extra height. Nothing insane, but Rallitek's 2" lift sounds nice. Especially with the stiffer springs. So, thoughts, ideas, shoutings of "you moron" or "stop driving your car so hard"? Twitch
  24. Twitch de la Brat

    Help! Ea81 wont turn over.

    Have you checked to make sure you haven't broken off any spark plug wire terminals? Are you seeing if the coil is getting hot when you're cranking? Do you have good voltage across your battery? Is your ignition switch functioning completely? Twitch
  25. I'm not dissatisfied with the dry pavement grip, at all. Hell, my old tires provided enough grip to lift the front tire too. It's a lot of other issues that have cropped up with the tires. Like getting a flat spot when sitting for a few hours in 50f weather at any PSI under 35, incessant bead leaks, cost, dramatic loss of grip when shown anything put pavement, and the list continues. For $180 a tire, I'd expect better. Anyway, Heartless, this isn't an old school block lift, it's a stiffened spring and small puck lift. It gets that last bit of strut length that the stock springs are too short for, and then a little bit more, with the puck. Then the adjustable rear sway bar should also help control body roll. The real issue will be raising the centr of gravity and how that will effect the car as a whole. Twitch