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  2. After clicking a few hundred miles I thought I would do an update on how the engine is running. Oil pressure is reading between 20 - 40psi when hot, previously 5-13psi...lol All the cylinders are about 85psi on the compression gauge. The vacuum gauge reading 19-20, there is a slight miss fire. The car has lost some of its vintage characteristics, no smoking and no rattling from the engine. I can now use the 3 speed gearbox as a 2 speed, 2nd and 3rd only required. It now climbs pretty much any hill effortlessly...:) The balancer has shifted, so my timing marks are useless. The engine paint I used was a cheap brand and is washing off with oil...:(
  3. Today
  4. Thanks Cowboy48. Can you do that to a post I made Sunday, about dashboards and steering wheels? Just the 46-48 file is 57,000 kb. I deleted it in my downloads, just to keep my old laptop working slightly above sloth level.
  6. April 25: After unpacking my enclosed trailer of garage stuff into the barn, my son and I decided to fire up the Meadowbrook and drive into town for a snack. Once I get my garage squared away I'll need to give it a tune-up, oil change, lube, etc. Sure was a fun ride tonight 😊.
  7. Here's some on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-1949-1950-Dodge-B-series-pickup-truck-gauge-cluster/401755260013?hash=item5d8a7ac46d:g:-wAAAOSwHN9cmntm
  8. DrDoctor


    Given your stipulated criteria re: bolt circle – you’ll be focusing on Ford, or Chrysler products. However, that doesn’t include the big/older Lincolns, Chryslers, Imperials. I’d recommend getting a bolt-circle gauge – it’ll insure that the rearend you eventually select does indeed have the necessary bolt circle. They’re not expensive, and are readily available. Good luck . . .
  9. your car is geared for the torque and rpm range that was prevalent for the era....you can change the rear ratio but you will need to keep in mind the terrain you will traverse, your basic driving style of the vehicle. If you get to high a ratio you will constantly be in and out of high gear in low rolling hills, bridges and some overpasses depending on load and speed. Even with factory OD they changed the rear ratio lower than that of non OD. Many here seem to think 3.55 is a good gear for use with the flathead. my 54 is a slightly larger mill, little higher CR etc....stock it is 3.73 rear gears and runs 80 with no problem, it will run faster but I have not done the shock upgrade so it floats like a boat at that speed....BUT I do have the first automatic, torque multiplication. My 41 bz cp is running a 2.72 rear gear....but apples and oranges as it has a 383.....lol
  10. Before adding just brake fluid you will need to know what type of brake fluid was used prior to you getting the car, Dot3, Dot4 or Dot5 which is synthetic. Dot 5 can not be mixed with the other types. If you are converting to Dot5 then you need to flush the entire brake lines with denatured alchohol, replace all rubber lines and rebuild the brake cylinder and also master cylinder.3 So do some research prior to putting in brake fluid. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
  11. Davknz


    So recently purchased 51 coronet bit of a turd however motor is pretty dialed in as in fires right up any was looking for an inexpensive rear axle swap , one that maintains 5x4.5 bolt pattern and is pretty much plug and play (if possible) I had a heck of a time with rear drums and they are a bit pricey was looking for something alittle easier to source parts for . I’m building a bomb (lowrider) so not really worried about keeping it original. Thanks in advance
  12. Excellent info! Thanks so much for taking the time to write it up and educate us.
  13. I will be rebuilding my 218 Flattie 6 soon on my D19 coupe and would like to be able to cruise at 70 mph to be kind to the mill. I would like to keep my 3 speed original tranny. I went through it and the clutch about 15 years ago and it is in great shape and has had low miles since. Was hoping someone might have done a similar swap out on a rear end and could give me a recommendation of what rear end to look for. I don't mind losing a bit on the low end, as first is a really low gear anyway. I hope to have a minimum of retrofit, maybe fabbing and welding new mounting plates to mate up to the leaf springs, and the drive shaft mod for the U joint. Would like to keep my wheel bolt pattern too if I can. Do you think I can find a rear end out there that will do that for me? Thanx, fellas!
  14. My cousin and my brother I did not have as we grew up recently snt me this card for my 69'th birthday, he will be 68 in Sept.
  15. The Serial Number is for a 1954 Chrysler Windsor which engine was made in the Windsor Ontario Engine Plant and the car came from the Windsor Assembly plant. It was a 265 ci motor when it left the factory . 3 7/16" bore and 4 3/4" stroke That being said the serial as 55 Fargo point out on another one, was not applied at the factory. The factory used a jig which held all numbers, letters and any special character together so when the serial number was applied they were absolutely in a straight line. This is a restamped block. 1954 was the 1st year the Windsor had a v8 in it, although at least in Canada the 265 was an option. The part number that is cast into the block -1400229-1 was actual a part number used for the 238, 250 and 265 ci engines and was a block number casted from oct 1951 until 1955 actually. If you looked inside the block you would notice its been carved on the side which allows for the long stroke 265 crank and rods to have clearance. That same carving was done in advance of it being known which ci motor it would be. If you look closer to the oil filler tube, but down by the oil pan you will likely see a Letter (likely a D and then a number (1 or 2 digets) and then another number (1 or 2 digets) . That will allow us to figure out when the block was casted. You can also look up a little higher and see a clock face cast in the block and a code for what shift it was casted on. The USA engines are a lot easier to determine the casting date that the later Canadian 25 1/2" engines, but thats a long story that really doesnt help in this discussion Good eye... 55 Fargo your 100% correct. while the t137 is an excellent resource it really is, it is not without its gaps and Canadian engines are often part of that gap. A classic example would be looking at a 1949 Plymouth you will see a p18 shown as a 218. Without getting into a big debate, it really was known within Chrysler as a 217. The Canadian 25 1/2" engine was a 218. However the real point is I have a 1949 Plymouth that my great aunt bought brand new. Its a p18 serial number. It was neither a 217 or 218... In canada they were 228 ci 25 1/2" blocks. On the t137 site it would show the 1954 chrysler 6 cylinder as c62 and that is correct... Correct for engines which were shipped to the USA for assembly into a 1954 Chrysler. For engines that were going to the Canadian assembly plant in Windsor, they were marked c54. Hope that helps
  16. Swap meet Sunday. Hoping to find some gauges. The correct ones are square correct?
  17. Ordered the wrong straps. Back they go tomorrow with new ones sent out soon. Got the dash knobs done and installed. Looks decent. Going to get my neighbour to make the ignition nut as he has a lathe. And I have no thread tooling for the cnc at the moment
  18. Yesterday
  19. Not Cheap is a understatement for sure, But??. Someone who really want it pays the piper! Best of luck on the sale, Tim K. DJ
  20. Not mine, although certainly a familiar name to the P15d24 site - "Keeping up with the AoK boys" Not inexpensive but OMG the last set I saw on ebay sold for $5 grand and needed restored. Hoping Tim Kingsbury will give us a bit of background. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Chrysler-factory-dual-carb-cast-iron-header-complete/254211420194
  21. I believe the correct measurement would be a 3.048 meter pole.....
  22. Now days there is a website dedicated to almost everything. Sure there are some Tonka dedicated and some general collectible toy sites. A quick search on the web will find some and a answer to your Q. Also most likely some toy auction sites on the web. Some are worth some big bucks in my OP, but I do not collect so it is worth really nothing. 🙄 Hope yours is worth enough to temp you to sell?? DJ
  23. Oh, the Master TEC! How could I forget about him! @TodFitch: indeed the car was standing for about five or six months. But when I drove it the first time, the brakes still worked fine (although the travel of the pedal was already a little longer). The second time then there was no more resistance. So this weekend I will start to have a look at the wheel cylinders. Since the pedal could be pushed down to the floor, I assume it's a leakage. And no parts are ordered. Just some brake fluid might be required... Thank you all so far for your advices! I will give an update soon with some pics again. Regards
  24. Is your 10WT Non-Detergent Oil full in the Tranny? Is your Tranny Screen Clean? Have you checked all your Electrical Wires and Connections? Also is the Fuse in your Tranny Selenoid good? Just a small check list before a full on trouble shoot from the manual Tom
  25. The troubleshooting manual is available to download on this website.
  26. Hotrod magazine posted up a video and the 55 is about 1:25 in. There are a ton of cool cars in there, even the Christine car! https://www.hotrod.com/articles/250-photos-viva-las-vegas-2019-rockabilly-weekend/?fbclid=IwAR3dZgsD0yrjw71fXFb3yz2XTiC_h26JoJPJJhZxYg1P_cuVdrYalneRCrc
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