Day 13: Ligonde a Melide













Day 12: Gonzar a Ligonde

We take a rest day. Sort of. 




Right place at the right time, I guess. 

Day 11: Barbadelo a Gonzar







Day 9: Fonfría a Samos

Once again, we deter from the road to go along the scenic route. Someone’s alarm goes off at 5:30, but they aren’t there to turn it off (brushing teeth or somesuch), which is perhaps the downside of 90 person albergues. 

It’s cool and pleasant as we walk downhill and there are even more rivers (with fish!) as we walk through the scenic route. 

We walk all over town and eventually find an albergue. I take a nap and we spend the rest of the day resting and reading from the same table out on the street. 

Day 8: Ambasmestas a Fonfría

In my head, I am always looking for the next mountain and trying to figure out how high it is and how it is similar or different to our last mountain. Must be the American in me. 

We are on the road early. There was word of rain (which happened at midnight). 

As it turns out, we have left early enough that it is generally cool while we are walking. Additionally, we are entering the region of Galicia, which, at least in the mountains, is foggy and misty. Which is exactly the weather we need. 

As a Californian, I struggle with whether or not to use a raincoat (let alone put on a jacket or take off the sunglasses).

We quickly learn that it is important to order caldo (soup). I am also intrigued by the use of “x” in place of “j” and sometimes “s”.

When I ask an in keeper about “Quexo do Cerbeiro”, she explains that it is cheese (queso), not complaints (quejo). She also asks why Americans say “ahhhh” when they are thinking. Don’t the flies go in?

Throughout the day, I manage to drop one book and to lose both my soap and maps. Sigh. 

We walk further than expected and end up at an albergue which apparently sleeps 90. Must be close to Santiago. 

Day 7: Trabadelo a Ambasmestas

We hike 5 kilometers and decide to take a rest day. 

It is glorious. A kindly Russian couple prepare pancakes, soup and trout. We do actual laundry (washing clothes in a sink or on a piedra is good, but not quite the same). I read “The Fault in Our Stars (thanks, AmusingMathias) in basically on sitting, then take a nap. 

It is a lot like base camp from when we used to hike in Boy Scouts. 

No complaints here. 

Day 6: Cacabelos a Trabadelo







Day 5: Molinaseca a Cacabelos






Day 4: Rabanal de Camino a Molinaseca




It looks (and feels) middle school embarrassing. 




The views are spectacular, though. 

Day 3: San Justo de la Vega a Rabanal de Camino

I take it all back. The uphill we have done so far is minimal compared to the uphill to Rabanal. (To be fair, it is still less than most of the uphills on El Camino) 

That being said, we are now in the phase of “Multiple Days on El Camino”, so we’re no longer as fresh as Day 1. On the upside, certain patterns and routines are emerging. We take cafe con leche at basically every stop and are constantly snacking. We are starting to recognize other hikers and pilgrims and know some of their stories. We look for all the taps with potable water and start resting in the shade more. (I charge my phone/camera every time we get to a cafe)

It’s Sunday (I think), so we see many churchgoers, including some who process around the town (complete with fife, drums and tambourines and 2 men dressed in clothing that would easily pass for San Francisco hip. 

Hostels and hotels are not albergues, based on both the prices and the funny looks people give us when we trudge in with our backpacks. 

The albergue we stay at in Camino de Rabanal has tea at 5pm and the church next door (stone, historic) has a pilgrim’s blessing at 9:30, after which we go to sleep.