Prepping for New Lawn


The effort in the beginning to properly prepare the soil will directly reflect the health and appearance of the lawn for years to come. At the very least, we need a firm and raked surface, free of existing vegetation, on which to apply the hydroseed mix.

A high percentage of the plant and turf problems can be traced to and/or caused by poor soil environment. Most construction sites become severely compacted which results in loss of pore space between soil particles and impedes the movement of air, water and the ability of the roots to penetrate through the soil. The addition of a few inches of topsoil, spread over the top of compacted soils, does little to improve the situation. The end result is a shallow rooted lawn that is highly susceptible to drought during the summer and flooded roots during the winter.

The best approach to correcting this situation is to amend the existing soil by tilling a decomposed organic matter into the existing soil (i.e. fertile mulch, peat moss, decomposed sawdust, Steeco, Gro-Co, etc.). If this approach is not possible due to rock or other reasons then the second option would be to import topsoil* and spread to a depth of at least 4 to 6 inches. (*Topsoil is a very vague term. Most of the soils on the market locally are manufactured products and vary a great deal in composition. Make some inquiries before purchasing).


“How to Prepare for a New Lawn”

  1. Measure lawn area. Most prices for materials and services are based on amount of square feet.
  2. Eliminate existing vegetation (be sure to read labels carefully when purchasing a herbicide).
  3. Remove debris (rocks, sticks, etc.). Locate any stumps or major obstacles beneath the surface that may damage the tiller or other equipment.
  4. Examine the soil. Soil is made up of sand, silt and clay particles. The percentages of these ingredients determine the texture of your soil. Sandy soils let water and air pass readily by and they also dry out very quickly, allowing nutrient levels to be flushed through the soil before they have a chance to do any good. Clay soils transfer water and air very slowly and cause soils to remain soggy while starving the roots of needed oxygen. Adding organic matter will greatly enhance both sand and clay soils.
  5. Establish a rough grade. Fill in low spots. Make sure grade slopes away from house, sidewalk, driveway, etc.
  6. Spread soil amendments (decomposed organic matter)
    **Enough organic matter should be added to physically change the texture of the soil to a depth of 5 to 6 inches. About 1-2″ organic matter mixed into the top 6 Inches of soil is usually sufficient (3-6 cubic yards per 1,000 square feet). In addition to organic matter it is a good idea to also add lime and a high phosphorus fertilizer at this time.**
  7. Till this material down 5 to 6 inches.
  8. Install underground sprinkler system (if desired).
  9. Establish the final grade.
  10. Roll lightly (using water lawn roller half full) and rake (just before seeding to break up any crust that has formed so the seeds have an excellent chance to bond with the soil)and water lightly if ground is very dry.
  11. Call Grass Master to schedule your custom hydroseeding. Grass Master uses only the highest rated varieties of seed, balanced fertilizers, pH adjuster, mulch fiber and root stimulant. Our products and workmanship are fully guaranteed.