In the Vines: Pruning and "Pliage"

A Sauvignon vine, after pruning and "pliage"&nbsp;

A Sauvignon vine, after pruning and "pliage" 

Every year in wine growing regions around the world, winemakers call on seasonal workers to team up and help with the annual grape harvest. In France, this period is called "les vendanges"- a word that refers both to the harvest itself and the experience of harvesting. It's something you do ("j'ai fait les vendanges") but also something that happens to you

There are many stories of how the vendanges have changed people's lives- the short period of time is often the source of inspiration, exciting encounters, and unforgettable experiences. I think of the vendanges as France's version of summer camp for college kids and adults- it's a time set apart from the rest of the year- and the distractions of daily life- when people come together, form a community, and synchronize to the rhythm of nature.

Working in the vines in the springtime

Working in the vines in the springtime

I did the vendanges in 2014 and count myself among the large number of people who can say it changed the way I see the world.  Not only did the experience inspire lasting friendships, it also lit a fire in me concerning everything that goes into biodynamic farming and natural winemaking.

When the vendanges came to an end last year and it was time to say good-bye, I was sure I wasn't saying "adieu", but rather "au revoir", knowing that I would be back again to visit the vines soon. 

Pruning Gamay vines in December

Pruning Gamay vines in December

By early December I was back. The weather had changed and the trusty boots that served me so well in September did little against the winter morning chill. But that wasn't the only difference from the harvest season. Now, instead picking the fruit of the grapevines, we were to cut back the branches by pruning each vine, being sure to pay careful attention to the equilibrium and harmony of each knobby vine foot. 

There are several ways to prune and the act, like all aspects of biodynamic farming and winemaking, is a mixture of science and philosophy, fact and feeling

Unlike industrial or conventional wineries, natural winemakers concentrate on quality rather than quantity, by pruning vines so that they have a chance to produce ripe, healthy fruit rather than being  overburdened by too many bunches. This is done by manually pruning each grapevine, choosing a primary fruit bearing branch on each side of the "cep" , or foot of the plant. The grapevines are pruned to stay low to the ground, assuring that sap can travel to feed the vines more easily and economizing energy that the vines will later invest in growing fruit

For winemakers that favor a low-intervention approach to wine making, the act of pruning may be one of the most intentional manipulations they will exercise in the life cycle of a vine/wine. While the role of man/woman is evident in the practice of pruning, and not something that occurs naturally in the life of a vine, it is not so much a violent act- but rather a humbling experience not taken lightly by the winemaker, who understands that they are affecting the destiny of not only the next year's harvest, but of the form of the vine stock itself.

Laurent teaching us all about "la taille" on a cold winter day


Pruning vines that are often older than you are, and will most likely be around longer than you, too, is taking part in a long history of decisions made by winemakers who came before you as well as sending a message to generations of winemakers who will come. 

In certain cases, when vines are pruned "à la baguette", or using a method that leaves one large cane, or branch, on each side of the grapevine foot, a secondary step is necessary. This step is called "Pliage" and refers to the act of folding and tethering the longer branch to a wire so that it will grow parallel to the ground. This method is often used with Sauvignon vines, who benefit from the restructuring that provides structure and stimulates growth

Bringing staples back from the vineyard&nbsp;after a morning&nbsp;of folding Sauvignon vines

Bringing staples back from the vineyard after a morning of folding Sauvignon vines

Using steady and firm gestures to bend the grapevine branches proves the flexibility and resilience of the plant. The branches will resist slightly as you fold them and use a special stapler to attach them to a low-hanging wire (this doesn't hurt the branches- just creates a lose circle around them and the wire so that they stay in place), but they (rarely) split or break, and adapt readily to their new formation

Another superpower of grapevine branches is their ability to make new life. On an early April visit to Laurent Saillard's parcel of Sauvignon I was lucky enough to observe the birth of a "marcotte". Marcottage is when you take a branch of a grapevine that was left to grow long in the past year or two, and bury the middle part in the ground.

Laurent digging a hole for a brand new, baby marcotte

Laurent digging a hole for a brand new, baby marcotte

After time, the buried branch will start to grow strong, downward reaching roots and a new vine stock is born, filling in the previously vacant neighboring space. It's a process that takes years to prepare and longer to reap the fruit of- but it's a beautiful way to create life in the vines and really makes you appreciate everything that the vines can give. 

One of the greatest things the vines offer, no matter what time of the year, is the opportunity to be silent and simultaneously in dialogue with something ancient, both inside and around you. Great winemakers listen to their vines and help them tell their story so that we can drink it all in. 

A marcotte from a previous year is growing strong

A marcotte from a previous year is growing strong

In Season: Ail des Ours + Wild Garlic Pesto Recipe

Freshly foraged wild garlic (right) and&nbsp;wild chives (left)

Freshly foraged wild garlic (right) and wild chives (left)

Every few months, I make a trip to visit dear friends and winemakers in the Loir-et-Cher region of the Loire Valley. Along with catching up with people I love and enjoying a break from the city, this is also an opportunity to see what's happening in the vines.

Participating in the vendanges, or grape harvest, last year got me hooked on the fascinating responsibility that is cultivating grapevines with the goal of making natural wine. Every season brings changes among the vines and different ways to accompany the plant to assure a healthy and robust autumn harvest

Pruning grapevines in the Loir-et-Cher

Pruning grapevines in the Loir-et-Cher

This winter, Laurent and Noella were kind enough to let me try my hand at pruning the vines, which I got to resume on a recent trip to the vineyard, during which I also learned "pliage", or folding, in which large canes or branches of vines are tethered to a wire to encourage an optimal grape yield. I'll write more about all this in a later post- because those lessons learned deserve their own space. 

Seasonal visits to the Loire reveal not only changes in the grapevines, but in the environment all around them. An added bonus to working among the vines is the time spent roaming the forests and fields looking for wild edible plants.

Wild garlic flowers

Wild garlic flowers

In the winter we took pruning pauses to look for wild mushrooms hidden among the leaves on the forest floor. We brought Chantrelle and Black Trumpet mushrooms back by the basketful and made hearty homemade meals from our daily haul. 

My early April visit brought a new scavenger hunt, focused on the bright green shoots that announce the arrival of spring. Among the most prevalent edible wild plants at this time of year is Ail des Ours, also known as Ramsons, Wild Garlic, or Bear's Garlic

Ail des Ours grows wild in deciduous forests with moist, slightly acidic soil. The height of the season is when the plants begin to flower just before the forest trees start to leaf. Both the leaves and the flowers are edible, the former have a sharp, concentrated garlic taste and the latter possessing a more subtle flavor

There are many options for preparing fresh Ail des Ours- the leaves can be used in a tossed salad or lightly sauteed with other greens. Laurent suggested pickling the flower buds, which should be done a little later in the season, when they are just about to flower.

Another simple recipe is Wild Garlic Pesto. I use the term "recipe" lightly here, since ingredients and measurements will depend on how much wild garlic you can find in the woods or at the market, what ingredients you have on hand and ultimately, what tastes good to you

Below is a basic recipe to get you started. Variations can include adding radish or carrot greens, using different dried nuts or seeds, or including other foraged plants- like early spring nettle leaves, which will add a bitterness and earthy flavor to your pesto. Adapt measurements and ingredients as you go, modifying to taste. 

If you can make the time, it's great to prepare a huge batch of this pesto in an afternoon. Prepare reusable glass jars to keep, or gift, your fresh, seasonal pesto!

Potted Wild Garlic Pesto with a glass of Noella Morantin's&nbsp;rosé "Marie Rose", photo courtesy of Ben Nerot

Potted Wild Garlic Pesto with a glass of Noella Morantin's rosé "Marie Rose", photo courtesy of Ben Nerot

Wild Garlic Pesto

Makes about 1 cup (250 ml)


3 cups (50 grams)Wild garlic leaves (and flowers if desired) washed and chopped

1/4 cup (25 grams)Dried nuts or seeds- such as pumpkin seeds, pine nuts, almonds

1/2 cup (50 grams)Parmesan cheese, grated

1 cup (235 ml)Olive Oil

Salt, to taste


Combine wild garlic, nuts or seeds, and parmesan in an electric mixer. Add about two tablespoons of olive oil before closing the lid. Begin mixing your pesto, slowly adding olive oil as you go, until you reach the desired consistency. Stop and taste often, adding salt as needed. The pesto is done when it tastes good to you.

Serve immediately with pasta or spoon into glass jars if saving for later. Store in the refrigerator for up to a week or in the freezer for longer.  

Wine Weekend in the Loire: Exploring Vins Etrangers in France

Saumur, site of the epic Dive Bouteille tasting&nbsp;

Saumur, site of the epic Dive Bouteille tasting 



I'm not going to lie, it's pretty amazing. 


Suspended bottles at Le Cercle Rouge in Angers

Suspended bottles at Le Cercle Rouge in Angers



René Mosse at Les Pénitentes

René Mosse at Les Pénitentes










Deirdre Heekin, photo courtesy of La Garagista

Deirdre Heekin, photo courtesy of La Garagista




