1. Boil potatoes with skins on.
  2. Melt 3 tablespoons butter with a drizzle of oil, then add the sliced leeks or other alliums and a pinch of salt. Sauté over medium heat for 5 minutes. When the leeks are golden, spoon some out onto a plate to use for garnish.
  3. To the rest of the leeks in the pan, add the sliced garlic cloves, and cook them for a minute until fragrant.
  4. Toss in the sliced sturdy greens. Season with more salt and cook, tossing continuously, until the greens are wilted and very tender.
  5. Add the potatoes to the skillet and mash them, and add butter generously. Taste, and add more salt and lots of pepper.
  6. Crown with smoked salmon or protein of choice, then scatter on the fried leeks.