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Freqently Asked Questions

  • Q: What are collets?

    A: There are four different sized collets available for the rotary tools - 1/8", 3/32", 1/16" and 1/32". A collet is a slim aluminum tube with small slits in the sides and an outer end, which is slightly larger than the shank that can be used with each collet. When the chuck cap is threaded onto the end of the tool, over the collet, the fingers of the collet (slots) close around the shank of the accessory and hold it into place.

  • Q: Why don't I get all four collet sizes?

    A: In most instances, the 1/8" collet will meet your needs. With the exception of the smaller shank (3/32" shank) engraving cutters and the diamond wheel points, our accessories are all on a 1/8" shank.

  • Q: How often do I need to replace motor brushes? When should I start checking on them?

    A: Check them at 50 hours of use on the tool. If the carbon is less than 1/4 inch in length, replace both.

  • Q: Does the Dremel Chuck (#4486) go down to 0?

    A: We only recommend using it down to 1/32".

  • Q: Will the Dremel chuck open to 1/4"?

    A: No. It's maximum size is 1/8".

  • Q: Can I use a Foot Speed Control with the variable-speed tool?

    A: No, it will burn out the switch on the variable-speed tools and two speed tools.

  • Q: What is the shank?

    A: The shank is the portion of the accessory that is actually inserted and held in the rotary tool.

  • Q: Is there an adapter to use shanks that are larger than the 1/8" shank?

    A: No, the maximum size shank that can be safely held in the high-speed rotary tool is 1/8". We don't have any kind of an adapter.

  • Q: How do I keep the router bits from burning?

    A: Try not to force the tool. Let the speed of the tool do the work. Forcing the tool does a couple of things; it forces the bit into more material than can be processed adequately and it creates even more heat than simply letting the tool move the accessory through the wood. Guide the tool through the design and work. Watch the depth. While forcing the tool may cause the accessory to burn, going too deep into the wood will not only cause the accessory to burn, it will smoke the wood as well. It is better to take a second conservative pass than it is to take so much that the accessory burns. It is often difficult to know what an accessory tolerance is, as it is impossible to know what the density and grain of a wood will be. If the grain is strong or sap is heavy in the wood, there will be even more heat than usual and an accessory could burn from the heat of the excess debris and trying to get through the material. Keep in mind that many router bits are actually constructed of tungsten carbide. These router bits are constructed of high-speed steel. They are not designed to rout on really hard or brittle material.

  • Q: When I use the tile bit it seems to get red-hot. Why?

    A: The tile bit should not get RED hot when it's getting through the tile. It is critical to the life of the bit that the initial hole in the tile is made via a 45-degree angle. The glaze is tough, so it needs to be worn away. That's why we recommend going through at an angle. If the accessory bit is spinning for a long time in the same spot, it will get red hot. The speed and the ceramic tile will create an intense heat that could cause the bit to get very hot. Guide the accessory bit through the material. Keep it moving. If the bit does actually get red, remove it, stop the tool and let the bit cool off. If the bit burns repeatedly, it will not be able to cut.

  • Q: What's with the #409 cut-off wheel? They break so easily.

    A: They are thin and are designed to provide a very fine cut in metals. But they are a very delicate accessory. They can break if you twist them when they are moving full speed. Be sure to wear saftey glasses when using this and every accessory.

  • Q: What does it mean that the #427 polishing point is "emery impregnated"? What material is it safe for?

    A: "Emery impregnated" indicates that the emery polishing substance is placed right into the rubber point. These bits will work on a variety of metals and plastics. We recommend trying them first on a small piece of the same material being polished.

  • Q: Plastic seems to melt when I work with it. How can I stop that?

    A: If you have a variable-speed tool, select 1 on the MultiPro and 5 on the Professional. These are the slowest speeds. If working in plastic and acrylic is your primary application, we would recommend working with the additional control of the Professional Tool, or considering a single-speed tool with an independent speed control, like the Foot Speed Control (#221). A single-speed tool with independent speed control will allow the tool to go even slower than the slowest speeds on the variable-speed tool.

  • Q: What would I use a bristle brush for?

    A: Bristle brushes are ideal for cleaning in tight areas. For example, car venting and corners where grout can get the dirtiest can be easier to clean with a bristle brush. The bristle brushes also work nicely for applying polishing compound that can then be worked in with a clean felt or cloth polishing point.

  • Q: Why doesn't Dremel make any bigger diamond points?

    A: The diamond accessories are usually used for fine precision grinding on hard materials. Making the head of the accessory larger will make the accessory difficult to use in tight or small, defined areas.

  • Q: Where can I get that little saw blade?

    A: Dremel offers the Model 546 Rip/Crosscut Saw Blade which is to be used in conjunction with Model 670, Mini Saw Attachment. The blade is 1 1/4" in diameter and has 48 teeth. It works great on all wood and wood-like materials.

  • Q: Where can I get tungsten carbide cutters?

    A: If you're having trouble finding them, purchase them directly from us by calling 1-800-437-3635.

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