Friday 11 July 2014

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My kind of town: Lisbon

Writer and jounrnalist Toby Green thinks Lisbon's 'sense of fading grandeur give it an atmosphere that few cities can match'.

Night view of Lisbon: My kind of town
Lisbon's former glory is evident at night 

Why Lisbon?

I've been a regular visitor to Lisbon for the last four years. Centuries-old documents about torture and persecution don't make particularly cheerful reading, but I've always found Lisbon the perfect companion. Its sense of fading grandeur, its huge open skies and its setting in an amphitheatre of hills give it an atmosphere that few cities can match.

What do you miss most when you are away?

The sense of space you get from the tops of the city's hills, with the view towards the Atlantic; and the anarchic character of some parts of the city.

What's the first thing you do when you return?

Walk to the Alfama quarter of the city. This was the only part of the old city not destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. It retains its medieval layout, with alleys so narrow that the balconies on opposite sides of the street almost touch.

Where's the best place to stay?

I always stay near the Graça quarter in a terrific old townhouse in Rua Pamira 47A, run as a stylish b & b by Antonio Macedo. The rooms are large, with antique Brazilian mahogany beds, wardrobes and dressers. It's a very stylish and convenient place to stay, and reasonable, too, at around £40 for a double.The best way to book is via email:

Where would you meet friends for a drink?

At night, I'd head for the Bairro Alto, the warren of streets above the main square, the Rossio. You'll find thousands of people drinking caipirinhas, and listening to samba and African rhythms in scores of bars. Otherwise, I fetch up in Graça at the bar on top of the Albergaria Senhora do Monte (Calçada do Monte 39). Here you get great drinks and you feel as if you can almost touch the nearby castle, where the jails of the Inquisition were first located.

Where are your favourite places for lunch?

The Antiga Confeítaria de Belém (Rua de Belém 84-92; 00351 21 363 7423), which is famous for its pasteis de Belém pastries. Otherwise, I'd choose one of the many excellent vegetarian restaurants. My favourite is Terra in Rua da Palmeira 15, near the Rato metro.

And for dinner?

A favourite dinner treat is to take the catamaran from the Cais do Sodré to the town of Seixal. There are lots of great seafood restaurants, you get a great view of the sun setting over the Tejo, and the boats run until 11pm. To splash out in town, try the Casa da Comida (Travessa da Amoreiras 1; 21 388 5736, reservations required) - it has some of the best food in Lisbon, especially the seafood.

Where would you send a first-time visitor?

Just out to wander the streets of the Bairro Alto, Alfama, Graça and the Baixa. Lisbon enchants because of its atmosphere, and for this you have to be out on the streets, taking the trams and funiculars up and down the steep hills.

What would you tell them avoid?

I found the aquarium - supposedly one of the best of its kind - underwhelming, and smaller than expected.

Public transport or taxi?

Lisbon is an easy city to get around. The four metro lines cover much of the central part of the city, and there is a good network of trams (above right) and buses with maps at all the stops.

Handbag or money belt?

A money belt may be a good idea if you're wandering around some parts, especially Alfama and parts of Belém.

What should I take home?

I always buy music to remind me of a place, and Portuguese fado is hard to beat for soulfulness. Try Amália Rodrigues for classic fado, or Mariza for a more modern take. The tourist office on the Praça do Comércio has a reasonable selection if you're in a hurry.

And if I've only time for one shop?

The boutiques at the Parque das Naçoes stock most of the things you might want to buy (red line on the metro).

  • Toby Green, a journalist and writer, got to know Lisbon while researching his book on the Inquisition, The Reign of Terror (Macmillan, £20)
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