Tiling qualifies as a do-it-yourself project because the materials come in little pieces. It makes a difference. Want to try an 8-foot-long slab of granite at 300 pounds for the kitchen counter? Ummm, maybe not. But once you sort through the shapes, patterns and colors, installing tile breaks down into four manageable stages: Surface prep, layout, setting and grouting.

Prepping the surface

Wood floors can flex when you walk on them; not tile. If the subfloor isn't rigid, the grout will crack. Once that happens, water can seep in, break the adhesive bond and begin to rot the plywood underneath. That's why most installers use beefy 3/4-inch sheets on tiled counters, even though you don't walk on them, and add 1/2-inch sheets over existing wood floors.

For maximum strength, use construction adhesive and screws instead of nails. In wet areas like kitchen counters, even more strength and resistance to rot is provided by an additional layer of cement backer board such as WonderBoard or Durock. The board should be screwed down, and seams closed with fiberglass mesh tape in thin-set mortar.

Laying out tile

There are two key parts to this step. First, the main field of full tiles should be centered in the most prominent area. Second, partial tiles at the edges of the layout should be equal sized, if possible, and none under an inch wide.

You may have to try several layouts — on paper or with dry tile — to find one that does both. If there's a pattern with different shapes or sizes or colors, extras like a border, or insets, planning becomes increasingly complex. You can measure the area and rely on your math.

But the crux of a good layout relies on what you see when you walk into the room. On the floor, that's full tiles in front of you and pieced tiles out of the way and out of sight. On a kitchen counter, that's full tiles lining the front edges and cut tiles relegated to the back and sides.

For your dry layout and the adhesive install, it's a big help for DIYers if you use tiles that have small nubs on the edges. Nub-to-nub, they automatically provide the correct spacing for grout seams.

Setting tile

The difficult and outmoded method of spreading a thick bed of cement (called a mud set) has been replaced by the much easier thin-set method.

Following the tile manufacturer's instructions, sweep adhesive across the area with a notched trowel that leaves uniform ridges. (The depth of the trowel notch varies depending on the type of installation, as specified by the manufacturer.) Start small, even on a kitchen counter, spreading just enough adhesive for a few rows. Then pick up the edges of adhesive, still workable, and spread the next area.

Nestle tiles into the ridges with light pressure, adjust the spacing and then leave them alone, typically for 24 hours. On DIY projects, use premixed adhesive instead buying bags of dry components, and avoid fast-set mixes unless you've laid tile before.

Grouting tile

Use a sponge float to sweep grout at an angle across the joints. Firm pressure and repeated passes compress the mix.

When set, use a large, clean sponge to wipe the surface, wringing the sponge and changing the water frequently. But no matter how clean the freshly wiped floor appears, as it dries a light haze will form. You may need three cleaning sessions to finish.