Palacio San José

Lonely Planet review

Topped by twin towers and surrounded by elegant gardens, Justo José de Urquiza’s ostentatious pink palace is 33km west of Concepción. Set around an arched patio, with a walled garden out the back, it was built partly to show up Urquiza’s arch rival in Buenos Aires, Juan Manuel de Rosas, and partly to show the power and wealth of Entre Ríos province. From Concepción, Sarbimas will take up to four people there and back in a remise , including a two-hour wait, for AR$180.

Local caudillo (provincial strongman) Urquiza was largely responsible for Rosas’ downfall in 1852 and the eventual adoption of Argentina’s modern constitution. Sometime allies such as Domingo Sarmiento and Bartolomé Mitre supped at Urquiza’s 8.5m dining-room table and slept in the palatial bedrooms. The bedroom in which Urquiza was murdered by a mob sent by Ricardo López Jordán is a permanent shrine, created by Urquiza’s wife.

Another option for getting there is a tour – Turismo Pioneros will take two people for AR$100, including guided visit. You could also jump off a Caseros-bound bus and walk 3km to the palace. There’s a mediocre restaurant at the palace and picturesque grounds for picnicking.