The first dessert wine that Santa Julia, in Argentina, has made from torrontés, an obscure Spanish grape, shows the same charm as the winery's dry versions. This aromatic, syrupy 2000 white, called Tardío, is tangy enough to be an aperitif. When it's lightly chilled, the honey and apricot flavors dance. Best Cellars, 1291 Lexington Avenue (87th Street), charges $13.50 for a half bottle. HOWARD G. GOLDBERG