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  5. Unfortunately, that list does not seem to be up to date.
  6. Cura Configuration Folder ? Wher is this situated!
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  18. Great work Oliveros. Thanks for the updates.
  19. In actual prints they become so much that they require an eternity to remove and sometimes they ruin the details. ;(
  20. Owen, Your idea was great, it lead me onto the right path, after making one of those shapes, I decided to print it standing up to avoid having to brace the sections and it turns out PETG is WAY more flexible when printed across and not lengthwise, like day and night difference. So I tried 3 or 4 different versions of your idea and they are almost too flexible to work, I don't know if they'll stay on the rail but I'm still experimenting.
  21. Hey Guys, I've been running into an issue on and off with my 3D printer, I've had it for a couple of days and been printing pretty much non stop. I left something to print overnight and it went sideways really fast, checked on it in the morning and the objects were all knocked off the platform and the nozzle was covered in plastic, a mess. So I've been doing Monoprice's PETG, printing at 230*C with a bed temp of 80*C and putting glue down on the brownish kapton (I think it is, came on the glass), I'm using a brim as well. I did it like that for a bit and it would print fine sometimes, not at other times. I then tried to clean the plate and I noticed the glue got very tacky again and tried printing again where I wipe it with water right before it prints and it seems to work okay, then sometimes in the middle of the print, the object get's pulled or somehow loosens off the glass and it's all over from there. It seems like it's OK sometimes and sometimes not, I've just been going by experience at this point and I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do with a glass bed but it seemed to work so I just kept doing the same thing. So what should I do?
  22. This could be easily checked by observing the z-axis when printing the first layer: if there is a ticking sound and motion of the z-axis when printing the first layer (or first layers), especially in y-direction, then auto level correction is active. As I see you have checked everything and made no mistake when levelling. Unfortunately, I'm now at my wits' end :-( Regards
  23. Probably this is a very silly question, but I can't find the answer. I own an UMO+, and I'm having some difficulties using the Tune option on the controller. What units are the parameters in? These are my assumptions: Speed: mm/s or [% of setting on SD card]? Nozzle: Ok, this one I get.. Celsius Bed: Celsius Fan speed: ??? Flow: ??? Thanks!
  24. I'm not totally sure about this. I'm wondering if it's not an auto level correction fault or something.
  25. I don't see anything wrong with the axles. All 4 sliding blocks are fit perfectly on the axles. I tried pushing on them but it's not moving so to me it looks like it's perfectly fine.
  26. In my experience stringing increases with higher temperature and with better quality material it decreases. But hey, do not make life harder than it needs to be: these strings are so easy to break away, so just ignore this effect!
  27. When doing manual leveling I always make sure to not touch anything at all (except the calibration card ONLY) and I'm positive that the friction between the nozzle and the bed feels the same at all 3 points before I hit the "confirm" button. So I don't think I'm doing this the wrong way. I'll check the axles in the sliding blocks in a couple minutes when I get back home and report back.
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