Tuesday, April 26, 2016

Zip A Bag Chapter 21: Zippered Pleated Pocket for Wallets




But - kids.
I love them.


A cardboard project. 


Obviously, I had to say yes. 




A gift, that's what.

May we - may I - never forget that.






I use it a lot in my wallets. 

Fabrics: top and bottom: Orla Kiely;
by Cloud 9 Fabrics


so here it is.


B: fusible interfacing
E: welt facing
F: pocket facing
G: pleat fabric

Step 1: Make The Welt







Step 2: Prepare The Pleat


Let's name the two surfaces of this pleat piece as follows:


Step 3: Face The Zipper





Step 4: Attach One Side of the Pleat

Lay the pleat piece on the pocket facing fabric so that


Step 5: Attach Facing+Pleat to Welt



and sew the pleat to the right edge of the welt.


Step 6: Secure the Zipper to the Welt


so the curved zipper tape appears in the welt window.




Step 7: Orientate the Pleat in Position



Close the zipper.

Step 8: Add the Pocket Lining


Step 9: Complete the welt stitching



Step 10: Sew up the remaining sides of the whole pocket







A smaller gap means an overall more secure pocket.




so it stays shut by magic, so to speak, 

and has no visible closure hardware.

There is a fold-out section with a zippered edge, 


so it's harmonious with the rest of the wallet,



  1. My children are all grown up and out of the house. NO grandchildren in sight. I miss the push of coming up with "how to" ideas in creating things for them and with them. They also taught me it is okay to be silly. I am still creative (quilt and make bags) but they were my inspiration. Yes, Cherish these times.

    1. Nancy: Funny - I just got myself all stressed thinking of crafts for the wee ones to do this afternoon!

  2. Thank you thank you for this tutorial.
    My son and all the neighborhood boys built a giant wood trebuchet to launch stuff for endless entertainment. They even did maths to figure out the arm and velocities. This trebuchet occupied them for two years. The physics teacher refused to allow this project as extra credit because it wasn't on his list and instead my son spent 45 minutes building a solar oven for the extra credit and then promptly sold the oven to another kid.
    Waiting for grandchildren as well.

    1. kathy: what a pity the teacher didn't allow the trebuchet! I would've, if I were his teacher. Even more extra credit had it been made out of cardboard!

      We built a solar oven once - out of cardboard. It cooked an egg. Cool! I mean, hot!

  3. I love the way you describe your parenting experience. They grow up so quickly, and having the privilege of being home there with them is well worth the lost productivity.

  4. Yes! Thank you for this tutorial, you are my HERO!. Ever since you posted a work in progress of the wallet (and the pocket) I've been searching high and low if anyone on the world explained how it works. I'm a pretty advanced seamstress, but I don't think I ever would have figured it out on my own =) So for this (and all the other awesome things on your blog) you have my eternal gratitude. I hope you have any idea how much it means to me and so many others to have such valuable info available freely. You rock!

    1. I was going to say the same thing. I can figure out a lot of things, but this particular type of zipper has had me scratching my head for a while. Yay! I can't wait to use it!

  5. We want to see the kids' castle!!

  6. I am stunned by this zippered pocket!!! I have several wallets that have this type of pocket and I will never look at them the same way again. I may never make one of these but now I know what goes into them and how intricate and innovative the design is. Thank you again for your whole zipper series.

  7. Thank you SO much for this! Beautifully written, clearly illustrated, logically ordered = genius!

  8. Hi, Thanks for this tutorial! I'm curious if this would work with pleats on both sides? I'd like to create a similar pocket on a bag, but am worried about the mechanics of the zipper + pleats on both sides. Does that sound do-able to you?

