

Munich madness: Oktoberfest and beer halls

Image: Biergarten
A "Biergarten" is not a kindergarten -- expect your beer glass to hold a liter (about a quart) of Munich's finest brew.Dominic Bonuccelli
/ Source: Tribune Media Services


The partying gets turned up a notch every fall, when the city celebrates Oktoberfest. The festival lasts just over two weeks (in 2010, Sept. 18 to Oct. 3), starting on the third Saturday in September and usually ending on the first Sunday in October (but never before Oct. 3 — the day Germany celebrates its reunification).





Big barmaids in dirndls with power-lifting bodices surrounded us. Georg confirmed that German men don't favor petite women. These famously low-cut outfits seem designed for German Rubenesque tastes. When I was there, Germany was still a contender in the 2010 World Cup soccer games, so there were flags flapping everywhere. A barmaid with two painted German flags flanking her cleavage joined us to take our order. I couldn't resist saying "Nice flags." I didn't think ... it just came out. She looked at Georg and asked, "Why do all men react the same?" Georg answered, "Because you put them right there."

I asked if they sell half-liters. Georg said, "This is a 'Biergarten,' not a kindergarten!" He ordered us each the standard full "Mass," or liter glass (about a quart, nearly what we'd call "ein pitcher" — but it's meant for one person). Waitresses carry these heavy mugs as if they're weightless.

While we enjoyed our time at Der Pschorr, first-time visitors shouldn't miss the Hofbrauhaus, a place that really lives up to the name "beer hall." Although it's grotesquely touristy, it's a Munich must. The smoke-stained ceiling, repaired and repainted after World War II bomb damage, is an evocative mesh of 1950s German mod — Bavarian colors, chestnuts, food, drink, and musical themes.


For the beer fanatic, there's a humble Beer and Oktoberfest Museum near the city center, which offers a low-tech and underwhelming take on beer's history and the origins of the city's Oktoberfest celebration.


A beer hall is a classic Munich "gemutlich" scene. "Gemutlich" is a unique word for Bavaria's special coziness and the knack of savoring the moment. It's particularly strong during Oktoberfest, but you can feel it anytime by spending an evening in a frothy beer hall, clinking mugs with new friends, immersed in a boisterous and belching Bavarian atmosphere.
