Tuesday, June 08, 2004

Session 4104: Finally Surfed The Kelley

The Kelley beach (The HMB State Francis Beach, officially) is actually the public beach that is closest to me. I could hold my board on my arm and bike there if I really wanted. I went there a few times before and either the waves were so closed out, not happening, or very "currently." In fact there was a lot of current today and I was pushed about 300 yards just paddling out.
With so much wind going on since Sunday, though, I was really itching to get out and catch a few waves. So I first checked the Jetty, seeing nothing really worthwhile, then got my binocular out there was some activities going to the south so I drove down checked a few spots, and finally I have realized that where it was breaking was the Kelley beach so that's where I stopped to take a look the last.
Surprisingly there was not much wind to contend with and then about shoulder level high, a mix of bit mushy peaks and fast closeouts waves were happening pretty much across the beach. This place has been somewhat intimidating to me as a few times I tried, I was quickly swept away with current and this was at least a year or more ago when I should even not have tried. Plus I was the only surfer this morning, and so that always scares me. This is really a big dilemma to me lately, since 1 is a crowd and I don't like it and if there is nobody I don't like it either! But, my itch has won over this time, so I was unloading the board, putting on the rubber and a helmet.
Unlike Montara though, there was not much of shore break to deal with and I was expecting the sand to dip down quickly but it was a low tide and amazingly I was fairly out and I was still standing knee deep in the water! There was so much sand! I was amazed by this. It was a bit like the Sand Dollar situation this weekend.
Once I was in the water, everything was moving so slowly like slow motion pictures even though the water looked so agitated, you just go with the rhythm of the water and getting out was not much of a problem. Even catching the waves were kind of slow, I catch, stand up relaxed and enjoy the rides. In fact, once I got over the initial fear of the location, it really got a lot of fun, relaxed. There were several spectators on the shore, but they must all thought how I can do it in such a messy waves. In fact, my wife walked from home to join me and she thought it was such a mess then saw me catching lots of waves and was surprised. She said "it is doable huh?" and I said "Yes." and she said "Perhaps you are becoming one of those surfers can catch any waves!"  I hope that is the case, but there were nobody else to compare so I cannot tell. We then stopped by at 3 Amigos and had a nice quick Tacos before getting back home for work.
I was there for about an hour but I got just countless rides this morning, and the waves were surprisingly gentle to get over and surf. Even after taking off, I can only go so slow like mellow days in Cowells.
No Crowd........3
Surf Condition..2
The Total Stoke: 7

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