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need help suzuki intruder rebuild and bad oil burn

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  • need help suzuki intruder rebuild and bad oil burn

    ok the bike is my landlords and he had the intruders motor rebuilt problem is it has a bad oil burn issue on the right cylinder but this is not a constante at times it will complety stop for a few min then out comes the smoke again

    any ideas here at all on what might be the issue and would it be easy fix, has a new valve guides seals new rings the cylinders were honed only enough to clean them up , timing was set, compression is perfect and even on both cylinders , tired a long drive to sturgeon falls and back and this did not help tried some sllick 50 still no luck but like i said sometimes it will stop and its fine but then starts up again and its only from the right cylinder

  • #2
    Probably not enough exhaust restriction.....
    Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada


    • #3
      Does the bike have a good consistent Idle?


      • #4
        Aren't Intruders V-twins?

        I wonder if it has an oil return issue.


        • #5
          the bike idels perfecty, excellerates perfect,decellerates perfect. loads of power, compression is perfect starts and stops pefect,,


          • #6
            Sounds like possibly a broken ring, maybe just the oil control ring.
            Merkel, Tx


            • #7
              Incorrect ring orientation separation during installation, then rotating into faulty a seal when running. ???????

              While were guessing at possibilities


              • #8
                What kind of emmissions and crankcase breather does it have? I'm not familiar with the intruder...but these are some systems that can get oil up into the airbox or ports. I'd hate to think it was a bad cylinder hone.


                • #9
                  Originally posted by topct
                  Aren't Intruders V-twins?


                  I know why you asked that, He stated its the right cylinder and I wondered the same thing as the intruder is a "fore and aft" Vtwin, I bet he's talking about the engines stagger or offset as I don't think the rods share the same crank journal in these models.

                  Anyhoo ------------ too many variables to try and pin it down right now but lets start with this, Is there any kind of rhyme or reason to the oil burning?

                  Here's what you want to do ------- take bike on long drive and put through these following tests;

                  Deceleration down long hills with the throttle all the way back off,,, then crank on it --- if you get a massive amount of consumption you know its vacuum related which equates directly to intake valve guides and seals or rings.

                  Accelerate steady up long hill and look for oil smoke, this not only lightens the vacuum factor --- it increases the crankcase pressure from all the blow-bye, it in turn works the breather system and lets you distinguish between intake valves and rings as in this case it can only be rings if the burning continues.

                  Does this engine have external oil feed lines for the OHC or is it a seal and port in the head gasket?
                  Why was the engine rebuilt? was it an overheat? if so this raises a big red flag in the possibility of a cracked head and an oil port bleeding into the intake port side - C. chamber or exhaust port.

                  With this engine just being down and then put back together it could be any number of things, improperly installed rings (upside down or all end gaps aligned or way to course of a hone)

                  Head gaskets have to be carefully watched -- many seem like they are uni-directional but when flipped over will block or restrict oil return ports,

                  Most importantly use the running engine as a diagnostic tool -- you can put it in many different variables to then use deductive reasoning and get closer and closer to why its burning oil in this cylinder.

                  Also --- stay away from MOA's --- putting oil additives like teflon and other stuff or even running full synthetics can keep piston rings from breaking in and seating properly.


                  • #10
                    I have to agree 100% with what A.K. Boomer just just said in his very accurate and detailed description of troubleshooting a problem like this.

                    A good mechanic will know what to do by what the engine tells him.
                    You don't have to look hard...the engine will tell you what it wants... you just have to listen.
                    My dad was a life long auto mechanic and these were the words he lived by. He was one hell of a wrench and it is the one aspect of diagnosing a problem that has served me well. You do have to train yourself to be receptive to the clues though.
                    It's the difference between a technician that replaces components and a mechanic that actually fixes things.

                    Good luck with the Intruder Airsmith, not being intimately familiar with the Intruder myself, other than it being a v-twin, maybe a couple of photos would help. As ABN stated emissions system components and breathers could be an issue.
                    Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                    Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                    Location: British Columbia