10 Tips for Sewing Vintage

Flashback Summer: 10 Tips for Sewing Vintage

As even the most experienced sewing enthusiasts can attest, vintage patterns can be quite confusing at first.  They don't include all the pieces needed, they assume you know certain skills that you may or may not actually know, the sizing is different from today, and the unfamiliarities go on and on.  Sewing vintage can be a beast.

However, sewing vintage is so worth it, too.

I began sewing with vintage patterns about three years ago, and I thought I would share some of the things I have learned along the way for those of you who have been equally as bewildered by vintage patterns at one point or another.

Please feel free to help everyone out and comment with your own tips for sewing with vintage!
It's a constant learning process, and we all learn slightly different pieces of information in our sewing journeys.  Combined, we all know quite a lot about vintage sewing and can help each other immensely!

Emileigh's Tips for Sewing Vintage:

1. Buy patterns based on the measurements closest to yours, not the size printed on the envelope.
Sizing has changed over the years, and it's safest to buy according to your measurements.

2. "Ruching" means a part of a garment that has been gathered as a design element, and it also means "ruffle trim."
I just learned this one.  Like three days ago.

3. Learning certain skills before sewing vintage patterns will help you a LOT.
I would suggest knowing how to insert zippers, make buttonholes, create bias facings and trims, and make your own shoulder pads (for 1940s patterns).

4. Certain decades catered to certain body proportions.  You are not weirdly proportioned, I promise.
Many vintage patterns have seemingly strange proportions they cater to that were in vogue at that time.  1950s and 60s patterns often have much smaller bust-to-waist ratios because it was assumed a foundation garment would be worn.  1930s and 40s patterns tend to have less extreme proportions (like the 30-25-33 combo I find often).  Learning how to work with the proportions of your chosen decade and change them to fit you can avoid lots of frustration!

5. 1940s patterns tend to run large in the bust.
This could have saved me so much money and anguish on patterns. I don't know why it's so, but it is.  For example, I have a 31-32" bust (a modern vs. vintage bra measurement difference), and I find that 1940s patterns for a 30" bust work perfectly on me.  I would suggest sizing down.

6. Vintage patterns may be more petite in general.
In modern patterns, I have a heck of time fitting my smaller shoulders and shorter height, even with patterns with a smaller bust measurement. While vintage patterns may still be a bit "tall" for me, they tend to have smaller shoulder, neck, sleeve, and wrist proportions  than modern patterns.  Some women find these tricky to work with, especially for girls with guns that need to increase a sleeve width or ladies with broader shoulders.

7. 1940s dresses are often meant to have a "blousy"-looking top, so the shoulder-to-waist measurement is longer.
If a 40s dress has a torso 1-2" (if not slightly longer) more than your shoulder-to-waist measurement, it will probably be fine, if the design includes a blousy fit.  Don't shorten it, or your dress will feel too high-waisted and you'll lose that 40s bloused look.

8. The little details make a difference.
Things like blind hems and hand-stitched finishings will really help your garment look truly vintage.  Take the time to do them and make a quality piece for yourself that will confuse people in 100 years as to whether or not it's actually from the 20th century.

9. Expect to have to make some pattern pieces on your own.
I was completely shocked when my first vintage patterns didn't include all the pieces.  I thought I had been gypped, sold a pattern with missing bits!  However, it wasn't so.  Many patterns don't include pieces it was deemed "easy" for the seamstress to draft herself, often rectangle shapes or facings made by tracing other pieces.  
Read a pattern thoroughly first and see which pieces will be needed that aren't included.  Then you can cut them with everything else and save time.

There have been several times in my ignorance that I have decided to take a shortcut on a vintage pattern only to realize it was extremely necessary later.  Vintage patterns include pieces and finishes that modern garments don't, so even if you think a piece is superfluous, I would be very careful in choosing to omit it.

What have you learned about vintage sewing that you'd like to share with the rest of us?  Any tips could help!


  1. Depending on the decade, the pattern paper is very different, too. My 70s patterns seen thick and almost fabric-like, while my 40s ones are light and I'm nervous about touching them - probably a post-war thing, now that I thing about it.
    Thanks for the tips!

  2. Another tip that I would add as regards sizing is that 30's patterns tend to have a much larger waist measurement in proportion to the bust. I have made a 32" bust measurement pattern from the 30's before, and the waist ended up being something like 27"!!! Way too big for me! Thank you so much for posting these tips! I have finally been able to experience for myself the blousy effect of forties patterns, as I'm making up a dress from my first 40's pattern right now. I love the look of it!

    the Middle Sister and Singer

    1. Huh, I've never sewn a 1930s pattern, so that's really good to know!

  3. Some of the instructions on vintage patterns seem so overwhelming. It's also nice to try out reproduction patterns as others have tried them and can share their experiences. I'm going to work on a blouse next and the instructions are quite confusing for something simple. I just really need to focus on it:) One thing I do like to do with really fragile instructions is have them photocopied at a print shop so that I can really handle them a lot. One thing I need to learn about is how to work with slippery material. I know there are a lot of tips and tricks out there for this. There are so many things that I would like to make that I really just need to focus:)

    1. I have the same problem! I also need to learn how to work with slippery material better. I've made a dress out of a slickery material, but there are places that definitely aren't quite right because of it. I think the best thing I've picked up so far is using fabric-stabilizing spray to help in cutting and such. I haven't tried it yet, but it seems like a useful tool to get!
      And photocopying instructions is brilliant... I just always gingerly lay them somewhere and try not to touch to much, but this is much better...

  4. Put a layer of plain tissue paper between slippery fabric layers. Works like a charm for cutting and sewing.

    1. That... is brilliant. I've had issues with a dress made of "slickery" fabric with parts that turned out wonky because of cutting, so I'm going to have to try this next time!

  5. Your Tip No. 3 reminds me of the time a dear friend phoned me in tears, as the pattern instructions told her to "run up the sides and fell down the middle" ~ make sure you know what you are doing! (Or maybe just Google it.) :{

  6. The thing about the bust sizing with 40s patterns is probably due to bullet bras.