



MG MGB Technical - Panel Refitting

I am finally getting the GT back this weekend (long story) But it will be delivered with the panels off. It will probably be a while until I can put them back but I wondered what is the best order;

Do I get the door/sill/quarter correct and then get the wings (fenders) to fit, or also install the bonnet & then fit the wings to suit. I am sure this is very subjective, but I'm also sure someone will have found a method that minimises blood, expletives and divorce.

Also there is a S/S panel fixing kit on ebay which looks goodish value, has anyone used it, or can think of a good reason not to?


P M Gregory

Pat That is a lot of dosh when you might only use a few of them, it would be better to get then as you want them.

GJ Barker

Only way to get all the shut lines correct is to trial fit them all at the same time. Mark the positions of flanges and or bolt holes.
Start with doors to sills and rear wings . Then its front wings and bonnet all together, pushing and persuading as necessary to get even shut lines.
Boot lids can be difficult because you can only move the lid, not the wings, so best you can do is to average the gap for best appearing fit.
When you have got that lot sorted the next job is to fit the quarter lights, using the same patient push and twist, even slotting some of the bolt holes where necessary.
jim soutar

I agree with Jim, as the sills and rear wing are now fixed. Do the doors to those, then the wings and bonnet to the doors and each other. When I lined up my doors with the creases on the front (already fitted) and rear wings, looking along the side of the car it looked like a stretched-out letter Z. I did the door as said, then slackened the vertical line of bolts at the rear of the wing, put a piece of timber between the top of the wing and the bottom of the car-port roof, then jacked up the car to push the wing down into line - before paint. The front of the wing also need considerable 'adjustment' as it stuck out in front of the grille by about 1/2". I had to elongate the holes and alter the flange so I could push that back into the correct line.

There is little or no fore and aft or up and down adjustment of the quarter-lights, only the side to side angle. You have to set the screen for the correct fore and aft and tilt so the quarter-light frame just kisses the seal all the way up, then adjust the quarter-light side to side to get the same clearance to the screen all the way up. You might have to juggle screen leg shims between sides to get the same clearance both sides. That clearance is essential, as otherwise scuttle-shake can cause the door skins to split.
Paul Hunt

Having the bonnet in place with a reasonably parallel scuttle gap, is necessary to give datum for the fore/aft wing adjustment, and also the side gaps. But also check the "width" adjustment by trying your grill. The doors need to be reasonably aligned to ensure that the said fore/aft wing adjustment doesn't result in the door fouling the wing when opening.
If some of the panels are new heritage ones, they won't fit! My new O/S wing took 2 hours to fit, the N/S a whole day with much cutting, welding, clamping and squeezing.
There's not much scope for tailgate adjustment, but they were often fitted with shims under the hinge brackets.
But remember all fits were a compromise, no laser alignments at BMC BL!!!
Allan Reeling

"shims under the hinge brackets"

Didn't find any but I have fitted some to the left-hand hinge of the roadster boot, which showed the not uncommon raising of that corner of the lid compared to the surround. Although that could be from stresses when held open by the prop.
Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 07/02/2014 and 09/02/2014

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