Copenhagen: an outdoor swimming tour – the best pools and sea baths
SEA BATHS
On the island of Zealand, facing the Sound (one of the three Danish straits that connect the Baltic to the Atlantic), and with Sweden to the east, Copenhagen is not far from a beach or two. But seeing as the water is always shallow you may want to visit one of the sea baths if you want to swim rather than splash.
Kastrup Søbad
Kastrup Sea Bath, or The Snail as the locals call it, is the most beautiful construction for outdoor swimming in Copenhagen. Built in 2005 entirely out of azobe, an African wood that is harder than steel and never rots or attracts woodworm, the sea bath offers Copenhageners a great spot for swimming, sunbathing, and sometimes even kayaking. The 750 square-metre conch-like structure has diving towers, lots of space to lie about in, and an amazing view over the sea and Øresund bridge to Sweden. It’s won awards for its design, and at night is illuminated by coloured lights. Still not done with the wonders of the sea? Then go to the nearby Blue Planet, the new aquarium with more than 450 species of marine animals, including hammerhead sharks, poisonous frogs, and sea otters, and which is a spectacular architectural experience in its own right.
Free admission. Amager Strandvej 301, Kastrup. On-site facilities: changing rooms, toilets and freshwater showers. Open Mon-Fri 3pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm until 15 September
Directions: metro line M2 to Femøren or busses 77 and 78
Dragør Søbad
Photograph: Andrea Bak
The quaint fishing village of Dragør is worth a visit in itself, and apart from cobbled streets with tiny yellow houses, Dragør also has a great sea bath. Facing the open sea, but surrounded by walls on three sides, you can enjoy a swim in fresh seawater, but without too much wind. The main pool is mixed, and swimwear is mandatory, but if you fancy swimming and sunbathing naked, there are women- and a men-only sections. This pool is the farthest away from the city, and the one that feels most like visiting the seaside. Once you are done swimming, take a stroll by the marina and have a coffee, ice-cream or meal at one of the many cafes and restaurants.
Admission £1.90. Batterivej 15, Dragør. On-site facilities: toilets and freshwater showers (cold water only). Open 7am-5pm until 31 August.
Directions: bus 350S, or rent a bike and cycle across the beautiful nature reserve Kalvebod Fælled
Helgoland
Photograph: Andrea Bak
Built in 1913, Helgoland is one of the oldest sea baths in Copenhagen. Until the 1970s this is where many Copenhagen children learned to swim, and it has been the home of the winter swimmer’s club, Det Kolde Gys (The Cold Rush), since 1929. In 2008, Helgoland reopened after four years of refurbishment, but before it was dismantled many of its wooden planks were sold at auction to sentimental regulars. As with Dragør, Helgoland is divided into a mixed area where swimwear is compulsory, and men- and women-only areas where it is not. The pool in the mixed area is 35m; the others are 25m. Much of its charm lies in the history, and as the water is quite deep and Helgoland has no diving boards, it is also usually very quiet. So, if you like a peaceful swim without many children about, this is a good place to go. Helgoland is off the newly-built promenade on Amager beach, which has ice-cream vans and cafes, and miles of concrete paths perfect for walking, rollerblading and cycling.
Free admission. Amager Strandvej. On-site facilities: toilets, and there are freshwater showers on the beach. Open daily 10am-6pm until 31 August
Directions: metro line M2 to Amager Strand or busses 77 and 78.
HARBOUR BATHS
A decade-long clean-up programme transformed Copenhagen harbour, and in 2002 the first of what is now three harbour baths opened, followed by another a year later. They became an instant success, and on sunny days Copenhageners flock to them. In winter they are open for members-only swimming.
Islands Brygge
The first harbour bath to open, in 2002, and still the most-visited, the Islands Brygge has become an iconic Copenhagen landmark. It was designed by architect Bjarke Ingels and on warm sunny days thousands come here to swim, dive, sunbathe on the lawns … and just to be seen. There is a 75m swimming pool, a diving pool, a children’s pool, and a paddling pool. It is in the middle of the city and provides an extraordinary experience: surrounded by high-rise buildings and with cars speeding overhead on Langebro bridge. At night the area buzzes with music from portable stereos, and the air fills with the smell of barbecues on the lawns. There are great places to grab a bite at Islands Brygge: the Munchies van just outside the harbour bath make delicious salads and chicken kebabs, and along the street there are several ice-cream shops, coffee bars, pizzerias and restaurants.
Free admission. Islands Brygge 14. On-site facilities: outdoor freshwater showers. There are public toilets nearby. Open daily 11am-8pm until 31 August
Directions: walk across Langebro bridge from the inner city or take bus 250S
Fisketorvet
Photograph: Andrea Bak
If you actually want to swim, or if you are not a fan of the large crowds at Islands Brygge, you may want to cross the harbour and visit Fisketorvet instead. The Olympic-size pool attracts swimmers training for a triathlon, and on Tuesday evenings there are free front crawl lessons open to everyone. There is also a separate diving pool and a children’s pool. When you are done swimming you can either go to the Fisketorvet shopping centre opposite or cross the pedestrian and cyclists’ bridge and hop on the yellow harbour bus boats that depart Islands Brygge every 15 minutes.
Free admission. Kalvebod Brygge 55. On site facilities: toilets. Open daily 11am-7pm until 31 August
Directions: take bus 30 or S-trains A, B and C to Dybbølsbro station
Sluseholmen
Photograph: Andrea Bak
The newest harbour baths opened in the Sluseholmen district, south of the city centre, in 2012. Its shape resembles a coral reef, which has inspired the name The Coral Bath. Mainly used by local families, this harbour bath is less busy than Islands Brygge. There is a 25m swimming pool, a diving pool, a children’s pool and a paddling pool. The whole construction floats, so if you are prone to sea sickness you might want to lie down on the grass instead of on the floor, as it gets a bit wobbly at times. Sluseholmen is one of Copenhagen’s newest neighbourhoods and not a lot goes on there. But if you have a rental bike or are Airbnbing at one of the many new flats there, this is a great option for a not-so-busy outdoor swim.
Free admission. Ben Websters Vej 69. On-site facilities: toilets and a freshwater shower. Open daily 11am-7pm until 31 August
Directions: take busses 14 or 30 or the harbour bus boat 992.
OUTDOOR POOLS
After a particularly windy or rainy day, the water in the sea and harbour baths is not suitable for swimming. The quality of the water is checked every day by the authorities, but the general rule is that you should be able to see your feet from the knees down through the water – and if it is too cloudy, you shouldn’t go in. You won’t be pulled out if you decide to do so anyway, but if you want a safe swim – or if you are squeamish about jellyfish and seaweed – your best option is in an outdoor pool.
Bavnehøj
The oldest outdoor pool in Copenhagen is in the old worker’s neighbourhood of Sydhavnen. The original pool was built in the late 1920s to give local, less privileged families the opportunity to swim without having to travel far. In 2010 the pool reopened following an extensive refurbishment, and today it is a truly amazing outdoor experience. The pool is 25m with marked lanes and nice clean water – with not a lot of chlorine. Every night the pool is covered, and solar panels on the roof of the changing rooms help keep the temperature at a level where no wetsuit is needed, even for long swims. There is also a large children’s pool that varies in depth from 0.35 metres to 0.9 metres. There is a beach volleyball court, large playground, deckchairs and lawns to lie about on. The lifeguards pay extra attention to people’s hygiene, so don’t try to sneak in the pool without washing off your suntan lotion, or with fingers greasy from chips bought from the cafe next door.
Free admission. Enghavevej 90. On-site facilities: changing rooms, hot indoor and outdoor showers, toilets, and outdoor lockers (bring your own padlock). Open Mon, Weds-Thurs 7am-8pm, Tues and Fri noon-8pm , Sat-Sun 10am-6pm until 31 August
Directions: take bus 3A, 10 or 14 or S-trains B and C to Enghave station
Bellahøj
Photograph: facebook
The high-rises of Bellahøj were the first of their kind in Copenhagen when built in the early 1950s. People from the small and poorly-maintained flats of the inner city flocked to the area for new, roomy flats on the highest hilltop of the city, and amid it all the Bellahøj outdoor pool was built. The admission fee to the outdoor pool includes access to the Olympic-size indoor pool, so nothing, not even the sometimes grim Danish summer weather, can spoil your swim here. The outdoor pool is, however, a great place to go for a swim, and kids will love the water slide. There are plenty of deckchairs and lawns, all with stunning views over Copenhagen.
Admission £1.90 from 9am-3pm, other times £3.80. Bellahøjvej 1, 2700 Brønshøj. On-site facilities: changing rooms, hot indoor showers and lockers, toilets, and outdoor showers and lockers (bring your own padlock). Open Mon-Wed 11am-7.30pm, Tues-Thurs 7am-8pm, Fri noon-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm until 31 August
Directions: take bus 5A, 13 or 350S to Bellahøj