A local’s travel guide to Austin: what to eat, see and do in three days
Austin has become one of the most popular places in the US to move to, and also to visit. Droves of people descend on the city in March for the South by Southwest tech, film and music festival and in the fall for the Austin City Limits music festival. And Austin is one of the top five destinations in the US for bachelorette parties. Don’t let the bachelorettes scare you away, though. Austin is a great place to spend a few days, so long as you do it like a local.
My family and I moved to Austin 12 years ago, after living in New York for many years. I’ve also lived in Washington DC, the San Francisco Bay Area and Philadelphia. Austin has a feel all of its own: it has a world-class music scene, great food that now goes well beyond Tex-Mex and barbecue, Texas history and fun shopping and museums – all with less hassle than bigger cities in the US.
Here’s my guide to a long weekend there. In addition to picks for adults, I’ve included some recommendations for families that our kids (now teenagers) have loved through the years. And I’m vegetarian, so I’ve chosen some of the city’s best veggie eats options. Don’t worry, my meat-eating wife made sure that I included great barbecue choices, too.
Day 1: Pool party & pickles
Start your day with a walk or run on the trail at Town Lake (it’s officially labeled on maps as Lady Bird Lake, but locals refer to it as Town Lake). This 10-mile (16km) trail on both sides of a dammed portion of Texas’s Colorado River (a different Colorado River than the bigger and more famous one) is tree-shaded, beautiful and one of Austinites’ favorite places to exercise. If you have time, walk through Zilker Park, which is right next to the trail. If you have kids, go to the new and very fun playground at Butler Park, complete with a splash pad just up the path from the playground.
Austin was one of the cities that started the food truck scene in the US several decades ago, and now there are more than 2,000 food trucks in the city. Some are located in trailer parks that have multiple truck options and picnic table seating. After your morning at Town Lake and Zilker Park, have lunch at the Picnic food truck park, or the nearby original location of local favorite Chuy’s (the Tex-Mex chain is now expanding throughout the US). Other great lunch options include Green Mesquite and Carpenters Hall.
In the afternoon, go for a swim at Barton Springs Pool. Open year-round, this massive basin measures three acres and is fed by underground natural springs. It’s open throughout the day, and it’s free before 8am and after 9pm.
Head back to your hotel or Airbnb for a rest, and then get ready for dinner. Tonight is casual: barbecue at Terry Black’s, or if you’re vegan, the food truck Rollin Smoke for a fantastic vegan barbecue sandwich made with baby portobello mushrooms, spicy slaw, barbecue sauce and pickles. It’s my favorite vegan barbecue sandwich in Austin (who says you can’t have barbecue if you’re veggie?), and it’s located in a food truck park with beautiful old trees shading the tables. Rollin Smoke has very good meat options, too (I’m told).
Kyle Stallings, co-owner of Rollin Smoke, serves food at his barbecue food truck in east Austin. Photograph: Katie Hayes Luke/The Guardian
If you have young children, head to Phil’s Icehouse. They have burgers and a full playground where the kids can play before or after dinner. Just don’t put them on the spinning flower after the meal. And be sure to get some ice-cream after dinner at Amy’s Ice Creams, a longtime favorite of Austinites. Amy’s is located next to Phil’s, and it’s so good we had an Amy’s truck serve dessert at our wedding.
After dinner, head out to see some music at one of Austin’s many local music venues. One of our favorites is the Continental Club. There’s a main club downstairs and the intimate Continental Gallery upstairs, where you can see local musicians in a cozy space. Other great venues include C-Boy’s and the new Moody Amphitheater. For full local music listings on any night, check the Austin Chronicle. And if it’s summer, look to see if Blues on the Green has a free concert that night. If you have kids, take them to the free Rock the Park concert series, produced by local radio station KUTX.
Day 2: Breakfast tacos, books & bats
Start your day back at the lake with a rowing workout that’s almost, but not quite, on the lake. Rō Fitness is a local studio that has outdoor rowing classes by the water. It’s way more fun than working out at an indoor studio.
You’ll need fuel after your workout. Grab a breakfast taco at Veracruz or Tacodeli or Tamale House East. Breakfast tacos are an Austin staple (they are to Austin as bagels are to New York), and all three of these places have delicious options.
Today is a shopping day. Start out at BookPeople, one of the greatest bookstores in the US. It’s locally owned and independent, but the size of a superstore. BookPeople also dares to take a stand on issues, including being one of two bookstores that recently sued Texas state officials over a newly passed book ban law. It has an excellent kids section, and organizes live readings by kids’ authors.
After you’ve gotten your book fix, head across the street to Waterloo Records, one of the best record stores in the US. Waterloo carries new and used vinyl, CDs and merchandise from rock to jazz to local Texas music. For more shopping options, head over to the stores along South Congress Avenue and South First Street (including Roadhouse Relics, a neon art store and gallery that is one of our favorites), and if you want to go thrifting, our teens say Austin Pets Alive Thrift and Texas Thrift are the best.
Steve Sachs shops for music at Waterloo Records in Austin. Photograph: Katie Hayes Luke/The Guardian
After all of the shopping, it’s time for lunch. If you’re near BookPeople and Waterloo, head over to Soup Peddler, a local place for homemade soups, smoothies and fantastic grilled cheese sandwiches (trivia: Soup Peddler got its name because the founder started out delivering homemade soup by bike before opening full store locations). Or if you’re near South Congress and South First, go to the food trucks on South First or Underdog or Fresa’s.
As you’re heading back to rest up, grab an ice-cream at Amy’s, a gelato at Dolce Neve or cupcakes at Sugar Mama’s.
Some good dinner options for tonight include Loro, Suerte or Este. And if you’re looking for a vegetarian option, one of my favorite veggie restaurants is Bouldin Creek Cafe. It’s casual, with a great menu that includes vegan chips and queso. If it’s nice out, take a seat on the patio.
Tonight’s activity could be going to see the bats at the Congress Street Bridge. Austin has the largest urban bat colony in North America, and in season they live in one of the bridges that crosses the Colorado River (they migrate to Mexico in the cooler weather). Bat-watching is a lot more fun than you might imagine from horror movies (and these bats look more like birds than vampire bats). If you’re not in the mood for bats, head to the legendary Broken Spoke. Get there early for dance lessons, then hoof it at this classic Texas honky-tonk.
Day 3: Live oaks & Lady Bird wildflowers
It’s your last day in Austin, and it’s a good one for visiting a museum. Some of our favorites include the Bullock Museum to learn all about the history of our state (bonus fact: Texas was once its own country, and some people want it to be its own country again). If you’re a fan of 1960s history, visit the excellent LBJ Presidential Library, which is the home of the 36th president’s papers. It has good exhibits on the US civil rights movement and 1960s US history in general. Another excellent museum option is the Blanton Museum of Art, or you could tour the Texas capitol (Austin is, after all, the capital of Texas). If you’re a nature fan, head to the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. And if you have kids, the Thinkery is an excellent children’s museum.
For lunch, it’s time for more barbecue (you’re in Austin, don’t fight it). Two terrific barbecue trucks are Mickelthwait and LeRoy and Lewis. And LeRoy and Lewis has another of my favorite vegetarian barbecue options: cauliflower burnt ends.
In the afternoon, head back to Town Lake. This time, get out on the water by renting a kayak, stand up paddleboard or paddle boat (a kid-friendly option). If you have time and energy for a drink, head over to the ABGB for happy hour. They have a great beer selection, lots of outdoor seating and local bands playing music.
Kayakers on Lady Bird Lake in Austin. Photograph: Katie Hayes Luke/The Guardian
For your farewell dinner, a few of our favorite restaurants that are a bit on the fancier end are Hestia, Uchi or the Lenoir wine garden, where dinner is served under live oak trees more than a hundred years old. And for a fantastic vegan option, go to Fabrik for a seven-course vegan tasting menu. You’ll need a reservation well in advance (they’re currently booking four to six weeks out). And for your final night in Austin, head out to another music venue. Or if you have kids, take them to the Austin favorite Peter Pan Mini Golf, which has been around for 75 years, or check Do512 Family for family events that are happening the dates you’re in town.
Question Time
When is the best time of year to visit Austin?
There’s no dispute: it’s hot in the summer in Austin. A great time to visit is between October and May. From June through September, many days will be over 100F. If you’re here in the summer, spend lots of time at the Barton Springs pool.
Is Austin expensive?
Austin hotels can be expensive during big events like South by Southwest or the Formula One weekend. But for most dates, it’s less expensive than larger cities like New York, Los Angeles and San Francisco.
Will I need a car to get around Austin?
Most of the places that I’ve recommended are within walking distance from downtown. You can also rent bikes and scooters to get around. Austin’s public transportation is primarily through local buses, which can take you further out if needed. And car-share options are easy as well.
Steve Sachs is managing director of the Guardian US. He has worked at large and startup media companies for more than 20 years. He loves all kinds of music, and his most recent favorite concert, the Texas Songwriters Hall of Fame Show, featured a host of singer-songwriters including Lyle Lovett and Emmylou Harris