The best public transport in Hong Kong: from double-decker ferries to funiculars
In Hong Kong, there’s always a luxe way to get around. You could go all-out by chartering a superyacht, or hopping on a helicopter tour of the harbour. But some of the best rides in town are true bargains that show off the city’s hidden corners and famous sights. Grab an Octopus card ­– that’s the local version of London’s Oyster card – and embark on a series of unforgettable public transport journeys across Hong Kong.
Star power
The ride: The Star Ferry
How much? From HK$2.20 (20p)
Hong Kong was built around its harbour, which was both deep enough to allow large ships to moor, and sheltered enough to protect them from the typhoons that savage the region in the wetter months. There’s no better way to see this geographic godsend than the double-decker Star Ferry. Since 1888 the ferries have plied the harbour, offering extraordinary views of the city’s frankly implausible skyline. It takes just eight minutes and costs as little as 20p but it’s a vital piece of the city’s life: more than 50,000 Hongkongers still use them every day to cross between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon peninsula. You’ll want to make the trip at least twice: once on the marginally more expensive upper deck, with its air-conditioned section and expansive views, and once on the lower deck with the regular folk, where the smell of diesel is everywhere and the hum of the engine thrums through your bones.
All aboard: Central Ferry Pier No 7, Central
Peak travel
The Peak Tram funicular reveals stunning views of the city. Photograph: leungchopan/Getty Images
The ride: The Peak Tram
How much? HK$52 (£4.80)
On Hong Kong Island, altitude is wealth. The higher you live, the better off you are. So it stands to reason that the city’s wealthiest inhabitants live in mansions on Victoria Peak, the island’s highest point. In the past, it was home to the British colonists – Chinese were actually banned from living there until 1947 – who took advantage of the cooler climes and stunning views. Back then, the only lazy way up the mountain was to summon a sedan chair. But that changed in 1888, with the opening of the Peak Tram funicular. Nowadays, those who live on the Peak mostly drive – or are driven – into town, and the Peak Tram has become more of a tourist attraction than a daily form of transportation. But quite rightly so: the tram ascends 368 metres (1,200ft) in seven minutes, hitting a maximum gradient of 27 degrees. The tram runs through dense vegetation, at times bursting out of the canopy to reveal stunning views of the city, which seems to fall away below you. And that’s before you even reach the top, where the city’s very finest views await.
All aboard: Peak Tram Lower Terminus, 33 Garden Road, Central
Ding when you’re winning
Enjoy the world’s only double-decker tram system. Photograph: Pavliha/Getty Images
The ride: Hong Kong Tramways
How much? HK$2.30 (21p)
Hong Kong’s trams are nicknamed “ding dings” after the distinctive double-bell ring that heralds their arrival. The world’s only exclusively double-decker tram system trundles at its own leisurely pace along the entire length of Hong Kong island. Board a tram at its terminus at Kennedy Town, headed to Shau Kei Wan at the other end of the line. This journey of about an hour and a half is the perfect way to get a sense of the city, soundtracked by the slow groaning of the tracks and that ubiquitous “ding ding”. Districts slide past the open windows, from the pungent dried seafood stalls of Sai Ying Pun to the towering offices of Admiralty and the humble homes of North Point. It’s worth remembering as you glide past markets, skyscrapers and low-rises that the tram tracks were actually laid along the waterfront: the 500-metre (1,640ft) or so strip of land from the tram to the current coastline has all been reclaimed from the sea. At the end of the line, Shau Kei Wan is one of the island’s sleepier, lesser-seen districts. Just next to the tram terminus is a bustling open-air produce market, and nearby On Lee Noodle (22 Shau Kei Wan Main St East, Shau Kei Wan) might just serve up the best bowl of fishball noodles in the city.
All aboard: Kennedy Town Tram Terminus, Catchick Street, Kennedy Town
Beach bus
Take the number 6 bus and visit Stanley village’s busy clothing market. Photograph: Alamy
The ride: Number 6 bus to Stanley village
How much? HK$7.90 (72p)
What’s so impressive about a double-decker bus? In Hong Kong, an awful lot. For the number 6 bus will take you from urban confusion in the heart of Central to stunning sea and sand in about 20 minutes. Grab a seat right at the front on the upper deck, and watch the city shift from concrete to green in front of you. As you crest the ridge that runs along the island, Hong Kong’s southside is revealed: a lush, forested area that feels completely removed from the city. The road winds down the hillside, and branches smack into the sides of the bus as you seem to teeter over the edge of road. Every now and then you’re treated to a glimpse of the sparkling water and pale sand of Repulse Bay beach. If you weren’t planning on swimming, then stay on board for another 20 minutes to Stanley village, the seaside town with its busy clothing market and strip of open-air eateries.
All aboard: Exchange Square Bus Terminus, Central