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Newsman Finds Many Changes in a
Visit to Moscow; Metropolis Overnight
Editor's Note: In the following
story, John M. Hightower, As
sociated Press Pulitzer prize
wining diplomatic reporter, com
pares the Moscow he saw in 1947
to the Moscow of 1963 after a
recent visit.
By John M. Hightower
LONDON UP — In Moscow,
thousands of people gather around
Red Square early in the morning.
All day long under the hot summer
sun they form long lines to tramp
solemnly through Lenin’s air-con
ditioned tomb and to gape at the
yellow-walled palaces and golden
domed churches of the Kremlin.
They come from all over the So
viet Union and from foreign coun
tries by plane, train and bus. One
official told me 50,000 persons
from the United States alone might
visit Russia this year.
The place they seek out first is
the wine red marble mausoleum
where the waxen remains of the
Soviet Union’s first ruler are re
verently displayed. The Lenin
Tomb has been a Communist shrine
for a generation and exerts a
mystical attraction for Russians.
Just beyond, enclosed within its
massive crenelated walls, lies the
Kremlin, the ancient and the mod
ern center of Muscovite power.
The astonishing thing to one who
was last in Russia in Stalin’s day
is that the gates of the Kremlin
stand open to visitors.
These open gates form one of
the symbols of the change that has
come over Moscow since 1947 and
| still is going on. There are others.
: Automobiles and trucks speed
j along the main streets in noisy
clusters. Store windows are full of
goods though variety is small and
the price usually high. Hairdres
sing shops for women seem to be
a feature of every shopping dis
trict.
Television aerials sprout from
the roofs of many apartment build
ings. Dozens of new buildings are
going up on the outskirts of the
city.
This reporter was previously in
Moscow in early 1947 to cover a
conference of foreign ministers.
The sense of oppression emanating
from the Kremlin lay heavily over
the city then.
Times were hard so soon after
the war, and food, and clothing,
and housing were scarce.
The streets were rough and many
were full of holes. Few cars were
to be seen. There were not enough
buses. The subway was Moscow’s
proudest boast. The sides of beef
and legs of lamb hanging in shop
windows were wax models.
But the real reason for the lined
faces and furtive glances of the
men and women in the streets
were fear of Stalin's secret police.
That terror is gone.
Tourists are welcome in Moscow
now and they can see much more
than the Kremlin. But the Soviet
capital is still a long way from
becoming the Paris of the East.
I
Delivery
— Automatic Service —
Stove
Oil
Furnace
Oil
[SUSDARD;
UuTUCi OHSJ
There is much red tape. The
official travel agency, Intourist,
collects payment in advance for
the room you will occupy and the
meals you will eat. Americans are
hooked in for “deluxe” service at
$35 a day for one person and $50
for two. The cost also covers a
sightseeing plan for which a car
and interpreter are furnished
three hours each day. The visitor
is assigned a hotel, sight unseen.
Service in the restaurants is slow
and ranges from poor to rude.
During our 10 days in Moscow,
my wrife and I lived in a friendly
downtown hotel assigned by In
tourist. It offered an excellent view
of a construction project across
the street, where an addition to a
children’s department store was
being completed.
Women and men worked side by
side at hard labor.
Moscow is humming with con
struction and repair work of all
kinds. Even many church build
ings are being repaired. The
churches usually are converted
into museums by the militantly
atheistic government. A few are
open for worship.
All food stores appeared to carry
the same lines of merchandise at
i the same prices, usually high.
Some things are cheap by West
j ern standards. A family has to
j pay only a few rubles a month
j for an apartment. A woman can
get her hair done for less than a
I ruble and hairdressing salons are
numerous. Books are inexpensive
and book stores appear to be more
numerous than any others.
The strongest impression we
brought away from our 10-day visit
in Moscow is that of a city on the
move, caught up in a turbulent
uneven growth. In some ways if.
is like a huge, dusty, overcrowded
peasant village turning into a
metropolis overnight.
It is the nature of this rap:d
change that you can see modern,
water trucks washing the streets
while wrinkled old women in worn
blue coats sweep the sidewalks
with primitive brooms made of
birch twigs.
NOTICE OF PROPOSED ADOPTION
OF REGULATIONS EY
DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION
Notice is hereby given that the State
of Alaska. Department of Education, will
hold a public hearing on August 22. 1963
at 1:00 p.m. in the conference room in
the Anchorage Independent School Dis
trict Administration Building for the
purpose of receiving testimony and
statements from the public regarding
school bus transportation.
The proposed regulations will repeal,
replace, and supplant sections 100-104
inclusive in Title 4 of the Alaska Ad
ministrative Code. The regulations will
be adopted under authority of one or
more of the following statutes:
AS 14.10.250, AS 14.10.150 i2L AS
14.10.140 (6). AS 14.10.140 (it. AS 14.10.
070. AS 14.10.010.
The proposed regulations wull also re
peal. supplant, and supercede all mater
ial now contained in the School Bus
Transportation Manual, somtimes refer
red to as Mimeographed Bulletin No. 1.
The proposed regulations will deal
with establishing and maintaining
routes, extension mileage, transportation
contracts, qualifications and require
ments for school bus drivers, general
operating regulations for school bus
drivers, school buses and equipment,
insurance to be carried by those fur
nishing school bus transportation, school
bus inspection, reports required, ancf
licenses required.
The proposed regulations will be sub
mitted to the State Board of Education
during their next meeting for approval.
Any interested person may present rele
vant statements or arguments orally or
in writing at the hearing Written state
ments are acceptable prior to the hear
ing at the offices of the State Depart
ment of Education in Anchorage or in
Juneau, Alaska. All statements will be
given full consideration before adoption
of final regulations. Copies of the pro
posed transportation regulations are
available from the Department of Edu
cation, Anchorage Office. 626 F Street,
upon request.
Assistant Commissioner of Education
Robert P. Isaac.
Publish July 22, July 29, August 5, 1963