:
. a
Cargo Boats on the Jhelum River.
L inn ™RE are times in every
* • 9 man’s life,” says Sir Robert
x Rnden-Powell in his charm
ing book, “Indian Memories,”
“when his whole being cries out for a
steady spell of doing nothing in par
ticular, at least, nothing that matters.
Nowhere is this so acutely felt as in
India.” And at no time, one might
add, as toward the middle of an In
dian hot weather, says A. L. Wright in
Country Life. Rut though India in the
plains may, at times, become well-nigh
intolerable, India in the hills provides
a solace such as may be enjoyed in
few other countries in the world.
There is something particularly fas
cinating about the Himalayas. Maybe
it is their immensity or their vast si
lences; but probably it is their infinite
variety that makes the greatest appeal.
Por there is always some new' aspect
to be discovered, some new interest;
and no man can hope to live long
■enough to be able to say he knows
them thoroughly, nor is it possible to
see so much of them that they begin to
grow stale. No wonder that men who
have first visited them as subalterns
go back year after year, revisiting old
haunts or discovering new, and that
some have found them so attractive
that even on retirement they have set
tled down in some peaceful valley to
spend their declining years.
In times of peace the army officer in
India is usually fortunate enough to
be able to get away from his regiment
and the plains for at least a part of
the hot weather, and with a month or
more at his disposal, the hills provide
him with an endless choice as to how
he should spend his leave.
Anything You May Wish Is There.
Of few places in the world can it he
so truly said as of the Himalayas that
they cater for every taste. Do you
want a month’s sheer idleness? Under
what more attractive circumstances
can it be obtained than on the Jhelum
river, floating leisurely along in a
Kashmiri doonga, or houseboat? A
perfect climate, gorgeous scenery and
everything complete for thorough lazi
ness; what could be more ideal? And
should mere loafing become monoto
nous, it can always be varied with a
little gentle fish-spearing, or short
trips may be made into the moun
tains, which come down on either side,
offering tempting fields for exploration.
But the average healthy young man
will probably require something more
strenuous. Mountaineering? One has
only to read of the exploits of the Bul
lock-Workmans to, realize that the
Himalayas provide sufficient tests of
skill even for the most experienced
climber. Big game shooting? Given
sufficient time, there are places beyond
Kashmir, such as Chilas, Astore, Balis
tan and Ladakh, which are veritable
sportsmen’s paradises. With luck the
bag may include both black and brown
bear, thar, ibex, burhel, gural, the or
dinary leopard; maybe the snow
leopard, and possibly the wild sheep,
the Ovis ammon. A shooting trip of
this nature is, however, rather a long
and serious undertaking, but even with
two months’ leave or less there are
many places where excellent, gport can
be obtained. There is, of course, the
country in the immediate vicinity of
Kashmir, but, as may be imagined, this
has been much harried and shot over,
and other places equally accessible,
though less frequented, are preferable
where sport is the main object. For
instance, quite good shooting country
can be reached both in Chamba state
and in Kulu within a month’s leave,
While little more time is required to
get to the upper reaches of the Sutlej,
where the Bashahr state borders on
Tibet.
Small game shooting, being closed
iili the middle of September, is rarely
enjoyed by the visitor to the hills un
less he specially takes his leave right
at the end of the hot weather. The
Himalayas, however, abound in small
game. Probably nowhere in the
world are pheasants found in greater
variety, but, though in abundance,
their shooting is often apt to prove
disappointing, usually owing to the
vttsfness of the forests they inhabit,
i !
The same cannot be said of the chik
ore, which can give as fine a day’s
sport and exercise as the keenest shi
kari can hope for. The fisherman will
also find himself catered for, as both
in Kashmir and Kulu trout have been
put out in the streams and now give
excellent sport.
Wonders of the Forests.
Shikar, though by no means the
least, is however, but one of the many
attractions of the hills. The botanist,
naturalist or entomologist will all find
plenty to occupy their time, while in
few places is there greater scope for
the artist and photographer. The for
ests, too, are full of interest. Get the
local forest officer to show you round
his jungles—he is a lonely man and
usually only too pleased to see a vis
itor—and you may then begin to real
ize what is involved in the making of
a railway sleeper. You may even get
some idea of what is meant, by forest
ry. You will see trees such as are
rarely to be found at home, magnifi
cent old groves of deodar, maybe from
800 to 1,000 years old, which have been
spared from the ax on account of their
sanctity—for the deodar is indeed the
tree of the gods and no hill temple is
complete without its grove. Felling on
precipitous hillsides and floating down
roaring hill torrents provide ample ex
citement for those who want it, but,
perhaps, most wonderful to the ordi
nary visitor are the primitive methods
of conversion. Sawing is still carried
out entirely by hand, and carriage
from the forest to the floating stream
is nearly all done by human transport.
Although wire ropeways are now be
ginning to be used in places, it is still
by no means uncommon to come across
a sturdy hill-woman almost running
down a steep mountain path with two
broad-gauge sleepers on her back and
a baby suspended in a blanket in front.
To the student of folklore and
anthropology the Himalayas offer a
wide field of research, particularly the
Hindu-inhabited tract in the eastern
r-unjaD. it is, however, by no means
an easy matter to get the people to
talk of their religion and customs. The
hillman is a simple-minded soul, a
splendid fellow when you get to know
him, but he takes a lot of knowing.
His inherent shyness and what is al
most a timid distrust of strangers
make it next to impossible for anyone
who has not lived in the hills or visit
ed the same tract year after year, to '
get him to speak of his religious be
liefs. But if ever you are fortunate
enough to get him talking, you are
taken back at once to the days of the
Old Testament and find yourself living
amid gods who speak and dispense
justice to their devotees, rewarding or
punishing as may be necessary. You
will find an explanation of every phe
nomenon of nature. The hailstorm,
for instance, which destroyed one
man's crop while sparing his neigh
bor’s, is directly attributed to Kali,
who, living on the hilltops, uses ice
as a missile to punish anyone who of
fends her. You will hear of witches
with tongues six feet long; of evil
spirits who enter into the bodies of
men and cattle and have to be exor
cised ; of scapegoats; and even of hu
man sacrifices, who before the days of
British administrations were slain at
the great festivals for the atonement
of the sins of the community. But the
ordinary visitor hears little of this,
though, with luck, he may come upon
one of the many fairs which are held
throughout the hills, generally during
the rains, when the people have leisure
from work in their fields.
The hillman is passionately attached
to his native highlands, and nothing
will induce him to forsake them for
the plains, which he regards almost as
a foreign country. And having learned
to love the hilxs oneself, one can well
understand his attachment, for the
call of the Himalayas is well-nigh ir
resistible.
Appropriate Shelter.
“My buddy -complained of being dog
tired.”
“What did he do?”
“Went to rest in a pup tent.”
; |«i;igiii];i!n]iniKig[iiiiBiiffitiiii:i;:ii;nii............
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t U ;■). K S n P
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FROM SEATTLE— SAILS SOUTH—*
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. . .. . - _ —
I iopper River and
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Ir .. ' ii
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