Looking Toward Coppal Lake.
ONE would not, of course, de
scribe the Kerry roads as
“good." There still exist mo
torists who visit a district not
for the sake of rushing through it as
fast as possible—they do not welcome
postively bad roads, but, given roads
which can be driven over, they are less
been on the goodness of the roads than
the goodness of the views seen there
from. Such, at all events, was the
temperament of our party, says a
writer in Country Life. Some one had
said: “If you don’t ‘do’ the coast
route from Killorglin through Cahirci
veen and Waterville to Parknasilla
you will miss the finest thing in Ire
land—perhaps in the British Islesso
we turned aside at this tempting pros
pect. And wTe did not regret our de
tour.
Soon after leaving Killorglin, where
the Caragli lake lies, still and black
in its opening in the hills, we began to
have some foretaste of the glories be
fore us. The road mounted into barren
wildernesses, and on our right; sud
denly the vast blue expanse of Dingle
bay was outspread, a dream in the sun
shine. Grander and grander grew the
vistas across that splendid inlet of the
Atlantic, wdlder and wilder the ranges
on our left. At Mountain Stage, where
there is a little railway station (though
heaven alone knows what the traffic
can be), the scenery was as noble as
anything I have witnessed in Great
Britain.
A railway accompanies the ’-oad at
intervals during this part of the jour
ney ; but it is a very unobtrusive rail
way, and appears to boast about a
couple of trains per diem in each
direction. Its final objective, of course,
is the ferry for Valencia island. And
it is for Valencia that another of our
companions was bound—the telegraph
line. For Valencia is one of the cable
stations; and those ordinary looking
wires, nine of them only, which pass
from pole to pole along the hedge side,
are throbbing, maybe, with messages
tor JNe\v York. A curious thought, in
this solitude! But Kerry is sophisti
cated, in spots as it were. It contains
three cable stations—the Valencia is
land one, the one at Ballinskelligs, and
the one at Waterville. The result is
that you suddenly come on queer
cases of civilization: neat rows of vil
las, spick and span gardens, and
evidences—I will not say of wealth, but
at any rate of more comfort than is
discernible in the thatch-roofed and
generally poverty-stricken farms. A
cable terminal, you learn with sur
prise, employs a hundred or more per
sons—skilled persons, too; the kind
of persons who have to be paid a sal
ary which sounds like untold wealth
in this neighborhood?
Happy Valencia Island.
Tt was interesting to come to the
Valencia island ferry and look across
at a little town as neat as some nice
French coast resort. But Valencia is
land, as we found, is by way of being
both rich and happy; and even if its
cable station did not bring unusual
comforts, the Knight of Kerry is one
of those landlords who see to it that
.their property, and the tenants there
are seemly to behold. Valencia
we all liked; it was, to be candid,
rather a contrast to the-nearby Cahir
civeen—of which a small pupil had
written (in one of the schools which
we visited) in her essay: “Cahirciveen
is a town with a great many houses,
and most of them are public houses.”
For all that, Cahirciveen is very
characteristic and picturesque. Be
yond it the road was, alas, pretty
rough; army lorries, we were told, had
ploughed it up, and there had been no
time, as yet, to put it under proper
repair. An easy pace was not undesir
able, all the same, for there was plenty
to look at. On either hand the hedges,
we saw with delight, were fuchsia—
a testimony to the climate’s softness.
Everywhere we went in this part of
Kerry we were astonished at the vege
tation. Fuchsias grew astonishingly.
On Valencia island there is one colos
sal tree of fuchsia, and here also we
saw glorious pink geraniums positively
smothering a cottage wall. Arum lilies
flourished like* weeds in the poorest
gardens. Along the bog sides, and right
down to the seashore, there were often
acres of yellow irises.
§
But the bogs, to the eyes of a stranger,
looked bleak, one must confess.
Every mile of the way beyond Killorg
Iln we had not been out of sight of
those sombre brown scars which mark
where the apparently exhaustless pe^t
is being cut; and now, between Cahie
civeen and Waterville these peat ex
cavations were almost continuous. Be
hind the bogs rose long, empty hills,
grey with bowlders or tinted here and
there with the purple of bell heather.
For some miles now we had been out
of sight of the sea; but, descending
a slope we came in view of it again,
and of the jolly little town of Water
ville, situated so sweetly on Balllns
kelligs bay, with the famous fresh
water Lough Currane lying a mere 200
yards or 300 yards inland. Waterville
has its terrace of pink villas, housing
the cable staff; but it also owns a few
hotels, and at one of these we were
excellently housed. Irish hotels not be
ing all they might be, one is glad to
find a really satisfactory one, and
moderate withal. Some of our party
who paused to patronize the salmon
and sea-trout fishing on Lough Cur
rane were enthusiastic in their unan
imous decision to return and make a
longer sojourn. The lough, certainly
is one of the most beautiful I have
ever had the fortune to behold. Our car,
on the good advice of the hotel pro
prietor, turned aside and explored the
valley in which the lough lies, going
as far as that dreamy tarn known as
Coppal lake. Fishers wrho ply their
craft in such scenery are indeed to
be envied.
Some Glorious Scenery.
But the best was yet in stove for
us. Returning to the main road and
leaving pleasant Waterville in our
rear, we began the ascent of the Coo
makista pass, Now, the Coomakista
pass, I hereby announce to those who
have not heard of it before, is one
of the most glorious stretches of sea
and mountain scenery In Europe. I
know the Corniche on the Riviera, I
have motored the new Italian roads
apove tne Venetian plain, ana aiso
between Valona and Santi Quaranta
in Albania, and I can seriously assert
that the view which abruptly unfolded
before us at the summit of Cooma
kista, though slightly smaller in size
than the celebrated ones I have men
tioned, beats them all for sheer love
liness and in the subtlety of what
artists would call its composition.
Before us lay Darrynane bay, with
its complicated contours, its endless
islands round which the Ailantic roll
ers were creaming, its delicious coves
of yellow sands, its huge woods, its
grand encircling rocks and broken sky
line. The car drew up without any
order being given to our chauifeur. It
was as though he felt that this tribute
must be made to the extraordinary
vision which had burst on us in this
dramatic fashion. We stayed silent, by
the stone dike which fenced us from
the deep declivity, and gazed and
gazed. It all seemed too exquisite to be
true. And Darrynane, when at last
we came to it—for we all agreed, now,
that we must leave the main high
road and look more closely at this
wonderful Darrynane—was like a place
in a fairy story. Just one small inn—
embowered in flowers (for the slope
is southerly, and we are on the Gulf
stream)—and no other houses except
one, that of the Liberator O’Connell’s
family; and, spread out, as smooth as
velvet, sheltered sands for bathers (if
any should come) ; and rocks with
pools of waving seaweed and anem
ones ; and deep coves in which bass
and pollock could be caught in scores
by the merest tyro; and, to crown all,
a magnificent lobster tea at the inn
aforementioned. Well, well! To think
that Darrynane, sleepy and bewitch^
lng, exists on the same planet as Pad
dington !
His Tactful Purpose.
First Married Man—What are you
cutting out of the paper?
Second Married Man—An item
about a California man’s securing a
divorce because his wife went through
bis pockets.
First Married Man—What are you
going to do with it?
Second Married Man—Put it in my
pocket.
.- ~~ ~ ' ~ ~ i
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.... *. ■"-■■■'» ■ i -. .. ---
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