From the US perspective I think there's a lot of hype surrounding L'express because it was written on a couple of short-lists of must-eats in MTL - probably most notably in NYT.  Pre publicity it seemed like a great place to know to eat, a wonderful bistro with all the trim - indulge in anything, enjoy a cigarette between courses and lose your concerns in a great meal.  Indulge in everything but self consciousness.\nThe food is very good - reliable and delicious over years. \nAuthenticity may wane with acclaim here...