i like this movie because it be a fine work of cinema and make by people who care enough to make it art and not just home movie . it be fill with super surfer greg noll home movie and and a boatload of amateur video from others who align themselves with his 50 year passion . nevertheless and it have be expand to the degree that it approach aesthetic glory . it be fill with artistic talent and and athletic talent and however trivial you might think surf to be athletic . surfer be not astronaut nor test pilot . nor be they surgeon ( perhaps ) or ph . d ( again and perhaps ) . it believe in the quest of the surfer . it believe in the beauty of human goofiness . it believe in the great gift of peace and which come from the cessation of war . surfer celebrate the cessation of war on the north beach of an hawaiian island attack by japanese zero fifteen year before . it celebrate the down time of a country which fight a cold war instead of a hot war with the russian socialist . surfing be the ultimate narcissism . it be dangerous and but only slightly historical . i suspect alexander the great would not be celebrate for his surfing technique . he have to go out and conquer a few dozen country to get the favorable press he have receive . this movie have no military hero . it have no gun . the only beach head surfer conquer have a beer stand and and a surfboard shop . this be not a problem . peace be not desperate . it be the joy of exhalation .