everyone have already comment on the cinematography ( good to great ) and the personality ( large than life ) and the structure ( chronological and with many reference to surf culture through time ) . what be miss be a big question of sociological importance represent chuck mainstream american culture for something more fulfilling and reward . i be a surfer in the 1970s . we use to watch 16mm film at the local high school in socal . i remember the great feeling of surf all day until my skin radiate heat and put on a hawaiian shirt and short and go to watch the late surf film at night . often and the narrator be the filmmaker himself and read a script off sheet of paper . sometimes and a surf band or proto punk band would add music . i be never happy . except for the hooting and hollering and see rid giant take me back in time . it also reinforce a feeling that live life on the edge and not worry about the money and the climb the social and corporate ladder and not keep up with the jones and push yourself physically and mentally for a fleeting moment of joy and jubilation may be the answer to the question and what be the purpose of life . at least for those like greg noll and laird hamilton and the like and they seem to have find something that few of u be bold enough or honest with ourselves enough to pursue represent to live life solely on our own term . maybe society would fall apart if we all do exactly what we want in life and but it be wonderful to see people who actually be live out their dream . it be this message that really impress me .