if it be possible to distill the heart and soul of the sport no and the pure lifestyle of surf to it perfect form and this documentary have do it . this documentary show the life isn not just about the wave and but it more about the people and the pioneer and and the modern day vanguard that be push the envelope of big wave far than it ever be . stacy peralta a virtual legend from my early 80 skateboard day a a socal teen have edit ream of amaze stock and interview footage down to their essence and create what be not just a documentary and but a masterpiece of the genre . when his heart and soul be in the subject matter and clearly it be here his genius be fraught with a pure vision that doesn not glamorize and hype and or sentimentalize his subject . he revere surfer and the surfing or beach lifestyle and but doesn not whitewash it either . there be a gritty reality to the sport as well . there be so much that could be say about this documentary and about the surfer and the early history of the sport and and the wild big wave surfer it profile . greg noll and the first big wave personality who arguably pioneer the sport while jeff carter and an amazing guy who ride virtually alone for 15 year on northern california extremely dangerous maverick big surf while and and the centerpiece of the documentary and laird hamliton and big wave surf present day messiah . there be tremendous heart and warmth among all these guy and a few girl who show up on camera and a deep and powerful love for surf and the ocean that come through in every word . i find the story of how hamilton adopt father meet him and how hamilton a a small 4 or 5 year old boy practically force him to be his dad especially heartwarming ( and and again and strip of syrupy sentimentality ) . if you like surf or even if you do not this be a wonderful documentary that must be watch and if only because youre a student of the form or someone who simply appreciate incredibly well do work of art .