category,text,group Top/Features/Magazine,"Questions for: Jim Bakker As an agnostic, I feel strange correcting Jim Bakker (Sunday: 'Questions for: Jim Bakker,' Nov. 9). He states, 'The Bible says money is the root of all evil.' Check again, Jimbo: 1 Timothy 6:10: 'For the love of money is the root of all evil: which while some coveted after, they have erred from the faith, and pierced themselves through with many sorrows' (King James Version). It's the love of money, not money itself. Big difference. Herbert W. Miller New York",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"A QUESTION FOR: Tim McCarver Q: What's the most boring part of baseball? A: When the pitcher gets on base and they stop the game to bring him a jacket -- so the guy's arm won't get cold. That's boring. What does he need a jacket for? His arm's not going to get cold. Another boring part is the small talk a first baseman will make with a base runner. They'll ask: ""How ya hittin' 'em? How's the family?"" And they could care less. It's the ""Have a nice day"" syndrome. I hated it, and [ Hall of Fame pitcher ] Bob Gibson really hated it. One time, against the Expos, Bob got on and [ first baseman ] Ron Fairly told him, ""Hey, you're throwing well."" Fairly came up to bat a couple innings later and Gibson hit him square in the ribs. I think more players ought to retaliate like that. SUNDAY, JULY 23, 1995",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"CHARLES MURRAY Charles Murray knows he treads on nonpolitically correct ground when he writes of genes and intellect. Proof of his theories is hard to come by and anecdotal evidence is not science. However, there is some history that might serve as a clinical trial to prove his thesis on a more scientific basis. He touched upon it when he paid the Israeli cellist the national compliment: ""In terms of I.Q., you guys are off the charts."" In Eastern European shtetls, the brightest youngsters spent their years in the yeshivas and the most promising one was matched to the rich man's daughter as the best catch. This allowed him to spend his life in study and sire a dozen children who followed in his footsteps. Do this for 2,000 years and you have some clinical results. While that was going on, the brightest Christian children were dedicated to the church and celibacy. Mr. Murray, does this prove anything? HERMAN GROSS Great Neck, L.I.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"CHINESE ADOPTIONS In titling Bruce Porter's article ""China's Market in Orphan Girls"" (April 11) and subtitling it ""China's Newest Export,"" you have done a serious disservice both to the Chinese Government and to families adopting in China. As New Yorkers who have recently adopted in China, we can attest firsthand to the seriousness with which China and its officials take the adoption process. Even after extensive investigation in the United States, prospective parents are required to travel to China to be interviewed by a number of Chinese officials about such matters as their ability to educate and care for children they adopt. What is more, the modest fees involved are donated to the local orphanage to assist in the care of children. In stark contrast to other countries and, indeed, to the United States, where lawyers and intermediaries routinely profit from adoption, China has made every attempt to create a thoughtful, sensitive and orderly process by which homeless children are placed in qualified, loving homes. Simply put, it is a process for which the Chinese deserve congratulation rather than implicit criticism. The decision to allow Chinese children to be placed for adoption abroad was by all accounts an extremely difficult one for the Chinese Government. In fact, as we write, Beijing has temporarily stopped adoption while the rules and regulations governing it are reviewed once again. It would be extraordinarily unfortunate if The New York Times, an institution with a reputation for integrity, objectivity and socially responsible journalism, were to cause disruption of the adoption of children from China through the use of inaccurate and thoughtlessly provocative language. SUSAN CAUGHMAN, LAURIE HEINEMAN Co-Chairwomen, Association of Families of Adopted Chinese Children New York, N.Y.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"THE CONTRADICTIONS OF BOB DOLE LEAD: I read with astonishment that Senator Dole whispered to me, during a House-Senate conference, that I should ignore his pronouncements on austerity and press for expansion of Medicaid coverage of prenatal care. No such conversation took place. I read with astonishment that Senator Dole whispered to me, during a House-Senate conference, that I should ignore his pronouncements on austerity and press for expansion of Medicaid coverage of prenatal care. No such conversation took place. Bob Dole did show sensitivity to the health-care needs of the poor in the conference. He is to be commended for that. But he agreed only after a strong case for the benefit had been made and savings to offset the costs found. His commitment to reduce the deficit required that. Your article seemed to suggest that Bob Dole was double-dealing with his constituents and fellow senators by arguing for savings in public and spending in private. This simply wasn't the case. Bob Dole and I are often on opposite sides of many issues. But in his dealings with me he has been straightforward. HENRY A. WAXMAN Chairman, Subcommitte on Health and the Environment House of Representatives Washington Mr. Tolchin Replies Representative Waxman first told me, at a dinner party, of his conversation with Senator Dole about expanding Medicaid's prenatal-care program. I called him to ask permission to use this anecdote in the article, and he agreed. In subsequent conversations, Mr. Waxman and an aide provided details of the incident.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Fate of Baby Amy LEAD: Amy's story touched me deeply, especially for the compassion with which she was allowed to live, and die. Amy's story touched me deeply, especially for the compassion with which she was allowed to live, and die. Our son was born dead, asphyxiated at term when the placenta separated too early in labor. He was resuscitated, but there the miracle of his life ended and the nightmare began. He remained without any function, virtually (but not legally) brain dead, maintained only by 'the best' aggressive medical and nursing care. We were never given any significant choice in his care; medical decisions followed their own protocols. Even though there was no possible treatment, we were forced to obtain a court order to restrain the hospital from reviving him each time he died. He finally did, for the last time, at 6 months, almost three years ago. My sympathy for the family of Baby Amy is matched only by my anger that modern medical practice is rarely so humane. KATHRYN S. MARCH Ithaca, N.Y.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"NUMBER THEORY In his discussion of ""the Number,"" John Tierney has hit a raw nerve and comes close to what really makes the rich different from you and me (The Big City: ""Number Theory,"" Nov. 19). You can be certain that if Bill Gates, Ronald Perelman, Michael Milken and Henry Kravis ever got together at a cocktail party, the one thing they would definitely not be discussing would be ""the Number."" ROBERT J. YAES, M.D. Bronx",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"A Woman's Work Many of my friends were shocked by your article, but I was not, having heard these horrible stories from Rwandan friends who survived the genocide, one of whom was held as a sex slave in Kigali and whose husband has since divorced her. I am glad that so much space and thought was devoted to these events, which are so poorly understood worldwide, but it is a disservice to make it seem as if Pauline's participation was a gender aberration. Remember the two Rwandan nuns found guilty in Belgium of crimes against humanity? Women were part of the genocide, not commonly in perpetrating the violence but certainly in fomenting the killing (especially via radio), helping trap Tutsis and turning in Tutsis who were hiding. Erin Martin New York",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Ethicist I loved the Ethicist's response (May 14) to Harvey Hauswirth of Provincetown, Mass., who asked if he was right to refuse the request of the 98-year-old woman who wanted to install a stairway lift in that Cape Cod cottage. 'That lift might be ugly, but some things are even uglier,' the Ethicist wrote, and then went on to talk about the sheer human beauty of kindness, compassion and generosity of spirit. It's worth noting that the ancient Greeks made no distinction between ethics and aesthetics. In other words, if an action looks good, it probably is good, legalities be damned. Robert Blair Kaiser Phoenix",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"QUESTIONS FOR THE COSMOS LEAD: TO THE EDITOR: Congratulations to Prof. Robert Jahn of Princeton for having the courage to pursue his investigation of psychic phenomena ('Questions for the Cosmos,' by Steve Fishman, Nov. 26). That is exciting. But as one who has participated in informal experiments testing such things as telepathy and psychometry (with startling results) and as someone who has read widely in the literature, I would ask: How many times do we have to prove that ESP exists? TO THE EDITOR: Congratulations to Prof. Robert Jahn of Princeton for having the courage to pursue his investigation of psychic phenomena ('Questions for the Cosmos,' by Steve Fishman, Nov. 26). That is exciting. But as one who has participated in informal experiments testing such things as telepathy and psychometry (with startling results) and as someone who has read widely in the literature, I would ask: How many times do we have to prove that ESP exists? And when are we going to spend more of our resources investigating how and why it happens? Those surely are the questions we should be asking. GRACE E. HINRICHS Canandaigua, N.Y",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"This Doesn't Add Up The death knell for accounting is premature (The Way We Live Now, D.T. Max, Jan. 27). I teach a Saturday morning course in introductory accounting at Rutgers in Newark. Not a choice day or ideal time, right? But this semester the students signed up in record numbers, forcing the university to open an additional section of the course. Students recognize what D.T. Max may not. Finger-pointing aside, the Enron scandal portrays accounting as an intriguing, powerful and empowering discipline. Gail Farrelly Associate Professor Rutgers University Newark",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Way We Spend Now I take exception to the subtext of David Brooks's article (Oct. 15) that the generation that survived the Depression 'are America's most conspicuous consumers.' Our generation listened to our parents' cautionary tales. We knew better than not to save for a rainy day. Those of us who could afford it sent our kids to college. Now that we have finished paying off those bills, we might have a little discretionary income, but Brooks calls us 'gray-haired hedonists.' Enough of this gray bashing. Less than 10 years ago we were told that our children would not be able to live as well as we have. Nonsense. We're not the generation building McMansions. We paid our dues. Louise W. Demakis Westport, Conn.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Ethicist I commend the Ethicist for an apt response to the inquiry about the ethics of using a wheelchair to speed the way through airport security (March 25). However, it overlooks the fact that faking illness makes it harder for those who are disabled -- especially if the disability is not easily discerned -- to obtain necessary help. I appear to be a healthy woman in her mid-20s. I am severely disabled by chronic pain and severe fatigue, both the legacy of cancer treatment, and depend on wheelchair assistance. I am thankful for the policy that any request for assistance is fulfilled and that this is done without question, sparing me rehashing sensitive information each time. Nevertheless, my youth and the invisibility of my illness often cause my requests for assistance to be met with skepticism. Exploiting one of the rare services that protects an individual's privacy, while offering a vital resource, threatens our already fragile credibility as people legitimately disabled, in need of aid. Shari Goldman Gottlieb Philadelphia",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Sophisticated Baby Fleurville Mothership Like many new entrepreneurs, Steve and Catherine Granville started out as dissatisfied consumers. The couple had a child, and they had a lot of things to buy, including a diaper bag. This, specifically, is where the dissatisfaction arose. Most of what they saw, Steve Granville maintains, was poor quality stuff, often tarted up with licensed images of cartoon characters and the like. It was as if the bags were meant to appeal to children. 'But who,' he asks, 'is buying the product?' The answer isn't just parents, but parents his age; he is 37, and his wife is 36. 'We're part of the generation that I would argue is the most sophisticated in terms of brand exposure and analysis,' he says. So nearly three years ago they started their own brand, which is called Fleurville, and began selling diaper bags and other equipment for people like them. Their mainstay product, called the Mothership, costs about $155. In contrast, you can buy a Classic Pooh Diaper Bag/Backpack, featuring Winnie the Pooh, for $20 at Target and any number of other bags for $50 or so. Fleurville has sold about 30,000 Mothership bags so far, mostly through boutiques. It is available in 10 grown-up-oriented designs, including houndstooth, several colors of wide-wale corduroy and a flashy pink-stripe version that is probably the most popular. It certainly makes sense that the modern parent wants to carry something that doesn't look, you know, childish. But those who choose the Mothership must be motivated by more than that, since they could have picked up Eddie Bauer's popular $35 Weekender, which is styled to look like something for gym clothes, not diapers. Apart from the fashion factor, the Mothership also sells functionality inspired by 'outdoor gear technology,' according to Granville. For example, the interior cloth is 420-denier nylon. (Which apparently means that it's very strong.) There's nonskid rubber in the shoulder strap, pockets and sleeves for bottles and cellphones, polyurethane triple-coating for waterproofing and so on. There are practical reasons for these features related to the 'human factors' of caring for a baby while on the move. 'It's not all buckles and bows and Mary Poppins,' Granville says. 'It's diarrhea and real nasty stuff.' In any case, there's another element to the Mothership that may be particularly important in reaching a target audience that is 'sophisticated' about branding. While Fleurville has not bothered with advertising so far, the Granvilles did think very carefully -- obsessively even -- about the company name. 'We wanted the brand to be a bit amorphous,' Granville says. 'A cutesy baby-bag name would limit our market potential.' They hoped to evoke a destination or state of mind and wanted a name that was faintly European, he explains, so that perhaps a discerning consumer would think, 'Must be a big brand in Europe, but I haven't seen it here in the U.S.' Once this was taken care of, the company, which is actually based in San Rafael, Calif., sent one of its bags to Jodie Foster, and Granville mentioned as much to a reporter for the syndicated celebrity-watching TV show 'Extra.' The producers did a segment on the bags, which led to calls from the publicists for Uma Thurman and Kate Winslet, among others. This was followed by coverage in magazines like InStyle and Us Weekly. 'It just sort of went from there,' Granville says. The obvious precedent here is the Bugaboo Frog stroller (a successful brand in Europe before it came to the United States), which costs more than $700 and has been linked to celebrity moms like Madonna and Gwyneth Paltrow. The Bugaboo's rise has perhaps confirmed that although today's parents may be too clever for advertising, many of them will pay an enormous premium to own the same things that famous people have. One retailer that sells Fleurville bags is the Pump Station, which includes a boutique for new or soon-to-be parents in Los Angeles. Corky Harvey, a co-founder, says its clientele is well off and smart and wants things that are 'functional as well as beautiful.' And does the store carry diaper bags with, say, famous cartoon characters on them? Harvey replies, emphatically, that it does not. The store sells only products that 'elevate motherhood' out of the context of tacky commercialism, she explains. 'Our mothers despise that stuff.' THE WAY WE LIVE NOW: 7-24-05: CONSUMED E-mail: consumed@nytimes.com.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"ROBERT REDFORD'S 50'S, THEN AND NOW I shuddered when I read in Wakefield's article that ""editorials suggested that the young Van Doren . . . was making education popular."" Shows in which contestants regurgitate facts to win big bucks reinforce the popular belief that education is supposed to turn people into well-behaved but well-paid nerds. It's a shame that ""The Quiz Kids"" seems to have been legit; the cause of education would have benefited if that show had perished in a scandal the way that ""Twenty-One"" did. JAMES D. MCCAWLEY Chicago",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Tyranny Of Cool It is not difficult to understand why clothing retailers would encourage adolescents to spend fortunes on their outfits. Nor is it hard to accept a teenager's tendency to be preoccupied with how she looks. But what is the role of the parents during these crucial years? Surely the parents need to do more than to 'remain ambivalent about how to respond.' Karen Lynn Princeton, N.J.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Unspeakable Conversations The medical reality of the debate between Harriet McBryde Johnson and Peter Singer is more nebulous than the clear division of their views (Feb. 16). In this day, parents who don't want deformed children have them aborted. When deformed or seriously ill infants are born, parents want 'full support' for their child. Physicians are reluctant to step in to play God and deny the support. Then, once full support has started, it is easily expanded to include surgically placed feeding tubes for nutrition and tracheostomy tubes for chronic ventilator support. Having started, it is incredibly difficult to stop. At some point we see the devastation created by our advanced medical support and then the debate starts. We have allocated the resources to prevent these deaths, and indeed, there have been numerous (productive) lives saved by this approach. Many devastated children have also been saved. The cost of their care is the 'tax' we pay for living in the most advanced medical environment in the world. Paul McCormick Edina, Minn.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Way We Live Now Poll I was overwhelmed by your special issue (May 7), with its remarkably positive, incisive look at what we think and how we feel at the start of the new millennium. We appear, on the whole, to retain belief in something bigger than ourselves. Lorenzo Albacete's Lives column, 'Secrets of the Confessional,' was particularly effective, with its understanding of our universal need to be truthful when it pains us most. And to find humor even then. Thank you for the reality check -- good medicine and a great deal to think about. Barry Collodi New York",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"HOPE SPRINGS NOCTURNAL Regarding Mary Tannen's article (Style: ""Hope Springs Nocturnal,"" Nov. 5), it's interesting how time, ""the subtle thief of youth,"" has changed baby-boomer vocabulary. When I was young, ""free radicals"" could have been a youth-culture slogan calling for the liberation of the Chicago Seven, or a fitting description of young student protesters. Now the presence of free radicals means we're getting old. Perhaps those of us who once embraced the youth culture are facing the fact that basing a culture on youth is like building a house on shifting sand. Culture lasts; youth does not. We can't erase that fact any more than we can erase our wrinkles. CLARE HIGGINS Hastings, N.Y.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Beauty; The Shining 'Smooth finish."" ""High gloss shine."" ""Polished veneer."" If the modern hair vocabulary sounds like the menu from a car wash, there's a reason: the fast track to shine on your hair -- or your car -- is slick with silicon. Like so many high-tech beauty breakthroughs, silicon -- derived from silica, or sand -- was first developed in the laboratories of American industry and found to have such glamorous applications as car polish, glue, caulking -- and, of course, breast implants. Silicon is a naturally shiny, inert, nonreactive substance, considered so nontoxic that silicon gel is a principal ingredient in Mylanta. But how did this cross over to beauty? The logic was simple. What polishes your car could shine your hair, right? The funny thing is, that's true. But in the course of proving it, a product was developed that is so versatile some people stop just short of calling it a miracle. By coating the outer layer of the hair shaft and sealing in moisture, silicon not only repairs your split ends, it acts as a conditioner. Once the hair shaft has been sealed, a smooth surface is created. Light is now reflected rather than diffused -- hence the shine -- and frizzy hair is considerably smoother and more manageable. ""It's like pulling molten glass across your hair,"" says Pat Peterson Rohde, a senior chemist for Aveda. ""It's clean, clear and cosmetically wonderful,"" according to John McCook, vice president of research and development for Elizabeth Arden, who is developing a silicon line for Oribe at Arden. In 1987, Procter & Gamble used silicon to create Pert, a shampoo and conditioner in one. But even before that, Shiseido had marketed silicon in Japan (QT Cross Cuticle Coat), purely for its shine-inducing properties. Since then, shine agents containing silicon have been outdistancing waxes, pomades, and gels. Shiseido and Zotos recently introduced Senscience, a joint line devoted to silicon hair products said to actually restore the hair shaft. All tend to be expensive -- Sebastian Laminates Surface Polisher is $17.50 for one ounce; Aveda's Purefume Brilliant Emollient is $19 for three ounces. Since you only need to use a drop or two, silicon doesn't weigh hair down. Used correctly, you should appear as though you've been lightly laminated -- a highly desirable look when buffed and gleaming skin, glossy lips and hair like glass is the most up-to-date fashion finish. But sadly, if you overdo, you'll probably end up looking like an oil slick. Most stylists agree that silicon is terrific at detangling frizzy hair, adding shine and defining curl. There's less consensus about the product's other virtues, however. Jennifer Lawrence, a hair stylist and makeup artist at Louis Licari Color Group, mixes Zotos's Bain de Terre Recovery Complex with mousse or gel, which she says can make the hair dull or feel dry. Silicon, she says, ""gives it a shine you couldn't get with any other product alone. I use it before blow drying, and after. It protects the hair and makes it silky."" Frederic Fekkai of the eponymous salon at Bergdorf Goodman says silicon products are terrific on curly hair, but ""I think it weighs down and flattens straight hair."" (For shine, Fekkai uses his grandmother's rinse of one tablespoon of white vinegar dissolved in a cup of water.) Richard Stein, owner of the Richard Stein Salon, calls silicon products ""the emperor's new conditioner."" They trap dirt and oil, he says, and create a dirty appearance. Other stylists claim just the opposite, saying that silicon creates a clean, shiny illusion even when the hair isn't particularly healthy or clean. So who's right? Maybe all, maybe none. ""The toughest part of this chemistry,"" explains McCook of Elizabeth Arden, ""is making it permanent but not too permanent. You want the material to bond to the hair, but you don't want it to last so long that it builds up."" But beyond the qualitative difference in brands, there is the matter of application. Silicon is one of those beauty products that the user has to literally get a feel for. How much you use, and when you use it, depends on your hair and the product. Until you marry the two, it may be slippery going. Correction: April 25, 1993, Sunday The Beauty column in The Times Magazine last Sunday misidentified a substance used in hair products. It is silicone, an organic silicon compound, not silicon.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"A Reporter's Odyssey In Unseen China LEAD: If John F. Burns's stay in a Chinese prison was unpleasant, what about the grave consequences that faced his Chinese companion, Zhang Daxing ('A Reporter's Odyssey in Unseen China,' Feb. 8)? Mr. Zhang spent more than two months in jail, with his whereabouts kept from his family for much of that time. If John F. Burns's stay in a Chinese prison was unpleasant, what about the grave consequences that faced his Chinese companion, Zhang Daxing ('A Reporter's Odyssey in Unseen China,' Feb. 8)? Mr. Zhang spent more than two months in jail, with his whereabouts kept from his family for much of that time. It is true that Mr. Zhang made the trip of his own free will, but those of us in Beijing at the time, contemplating our own trips, knew better than to include Chinese nationals in our plans. The worst that could happen to us was deportation. A local Chinese person would face much sterner measures, possibly affecting the course of his life. What bothers me most is that Mr. Burns's odyssey ends with his being escorted to the airport and handed a ticket to Hong Kong, but Mr. Zhang remained behind. Somehow the high drama of Mr. Burns's experience pales in comparison to the reality Mr. Zhang was left to face alone in China. DAVID RICHTER Johns Hopkins University School of Advanced International Studies Washington",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"HOW SHORT IS TOO SHORT? I am grateful to Barry Werth for making the point that short children ultimately are taking human growth hormone ""because there is H.G.H. to give them."" It's not just Genentech. If we as a society didn't buy into this silliness about physical perfection, Genentech wouldn't have the lucrative market it does. MARY JOHNSON Hortonville, N.Y.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Jonathan Lebed's Extracurricular Activities You might have put a better photo of Jonathan on your cover so that this 'almost millionaire' could get a date to the prom. Lisa Feder Eichenblatt Maitland, Fla.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"TEACHING JOHNNY TO BE GOOD Rosenblatt states that character education was a ""subject unheard of a generation ago."" On the contrary, in the 1960's and 70's there was intense interest in teaching values in school. One strong impetus came out of the human-potential movement and another out of Lawrence Kohlberg's work on the theory of moral development. Interestingly, the public schools in 19th-century America adopted not only the rhetoric but the practice of character education. Using the famous McGuffey's Eclectic Readers, virtues were fostered, including thrift honesty, piety, punctuality and industry. Yes, let's address the matter of values and character in the rearing of our young. But let's examine and learn from our long history with this issue. JOSEPH KIRSCHNER Evanston, Ill.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"WHO'S AFRAID OF LANI GUINIER? Lani Guinier is concerned with two somewhat different aspects of minority representation (""Who's Afraid of Lani Guinier?"" Feb. 27). The first has to do with electoral politics. Here she has some useful things to say. The American system of winner-take-all elections does penalize a minority in an electoral district: a group may constitute a substantial minority in a large number of districts and yet be outvoted in all of them. The cumulative voting scheme she discusses (or a simpler system of proportional representation, of the type used in most other democratic nations) would allow minority viewpoints fairer representation in legislative bodies such as Congress. But fairer representation of this sort need not help much with her second concern: whether minorities get a chance to implement their policy preferences. For example, European parliaments elected by proportional representation may have a broader range of opposition viewpoints than the American Congress, but minority parties do not necessarily become part of governing coalitions or play much of a role in policy making. If Ms. Guinier wants to claim that certain concerns are of such fundamental importance that they, like freedom of religion or freedom of speech, ought to be protected from majority pressure, let her say so clearly and let her say why. If Ms. Guinier wants to move toward a political process in which consensus is more important and confrontation less important, let her explicitly set out a mechanism for convincing the majority that it is in its interest to accommodate the demands of the minority. Ms. Guinier is dealing with very important questions of fairness in a divided political system. But if changes in rules of representation would allow minority viewpoints to be better articulated within legislative bodies, minority groups would not be guaranteed a sympathetic response. The political task of coalition-building is unlikely to be solved by tinkering with representation systems alone. DAVID G. LAWRENCE Associate Professor of Political Science Fordham University Bronx",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Third Wheel Dorothy J. Farnan, b. 1919 Dorothy Farnan and her lifelong best friend, Mary Valentine, recent arrivals in New York, were drowning their troubles over coffee at the Waldorf Cafeteria on a dismal rainy November night in 1943 when whom should they see at a neighboring table but that charismatic pal from their student days at the University of Michigan, the sharp-tongued, prodigal Chester Kallman, effulgent as a golden-haired fallen angel. It was, Dorothy later wrote, the 'one event that changed the course of our lives.' When they approached Kallman, he responded warmly and invited them to come by the next evening for drinks. Before they realized what was happening, they had been admitted to his inner circle, made up mostly of gay men and revolving around Chester's radiant wit and the eccentric spin of his companion, W.H. Auden. In 'Auden in Love,' the account (part memoir, part biography) of Chester and Wystan's relationship that she wrote after both men died, Farnan reveals that she never liked the celebrated poet. She found him 'rude and cold,' 'exasperating' and 'moody' and 'forbidding.' She resented his 'jealousy' and the way in which he 'usurped' Chester and bossed him around like 'a crotchety schoolmaster.' Nor, she felt, did Auden conceal his 'basic antagonism' to both Mary and herself. Indeed, Dorothy heard that Auden had once tried to conjure a curse on her. But the two women were not that easily deflected. Mary was smitten with Chester. And Dorothy, hopping up a generation, found herself so drawn to Chester's father, Edward -- a dentist with his son's wit, charm and penchant for (in his case, heterosexually oriented) philandery -- that she moved into his home and eventually married him. Inevitably, Mary was less successful. Indeed, when she revealed the nature of her affection to Chester, his friendship with both women cooled. Even though she wrote a 253-page book about it, Farnan could never quite get to the bottom of the relationship between Kallman and his older, distinguished companion. She wasn't the only one baffled. An alcoholic with a self-destructive drive, Chester inflicted a great deal of pain on Auden -- although far more on himself. After the first couple of years, the sexual component of the partnership ended. Some of Auden's friends wondered why the famous poet remained devoted to Chester. Edward Mendelson, who is Auden's literary executor, says that Kallman's cleverness constituted part of his appeal. Largely unharnessed and unproductive, the torrent of Kallman's intelligence was nonetheless entrancing. 'I saw his wit,' Mendelson says. 'It was unbelievably quick. One mild example is, somebody referred to Klaus Mann' -- Thomas's son -- 'as the invisible Mann. Chester said, 'No, he's the subordinate Klaus.'' Hopeless with money and pathologically disorganized, Kallman never held a job and relied on Auden for financial support. Auden was fiscally prudent but practical only by comparison to Kallman. A decade after Farnan's book appeared, Thekla Clark, a far closer friend of the couple, wrote her own memoir, 'Wystan and Chester.' 'It shows you the point of Chester,' Mendelson says. In it, Kallman's charm (at least until his sad final years) is evident. Written as a sort of rebuttal to Farnan's version, Clark's book is a delightful recollection that contains, buried inconspicuously, a bombshell. Clark recounts that, toward the end, she and her husband accompanied the middle-aged pair to a Vienna attorney's office, where Kallman and Auden drew up wills, each leaving his property to the other, with the financial rights to the literary estate passing upon the death of the survivor to Auden's two beloved nieces. Those wills have disappeared. 'Auden's intention was on record,' Mendelson says. 'It was just sloppiness.' Auden died in September 1973, and Kallman survived him by only 15 months. Although aware of the missing wills, Auden's family was far too genteel to contemplate a lawsuit. The estate was inherited by Chester's elderly father, and after his death it went to his widow, Dorothy. Which is how this tall, formidable, chilly woman -- whose other distinction was having been the first female head of the English department of Erasmus Hall High School in Brooklyn -- came to be the sole beneficiary of the Auden estate. 'No one who is not a movie star would have to work for a living with the income from the estate,' Mendelson says. The annual fees these days are in the low six figures. When Farnan died in October at the age of 84, much of her property went to the daughter of her late friend Mary Valentine. Ultimately, however, Farnan earmarked the income from the Auden corpus -- including such classic poems as 'Lullaby,' 'In Memory of W.B. Yeats,' 'Spain 1937,' 'Stop All the Clocks' and 'The Age of Anxiety' -- for four animal charities. She was inordinately fond of cats. 'Auden was a great cat lover, too,' says Chester's half-brother, William Kallman, 'so I guess he won't roll over too many times in his grave.' THE LIVES THEY LIVED Arthur Lubow is a contributing writer for the magazine.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"An Impossible Occupation Scott Anderson's fascinating article (May 12) succeeds in presenting the conflict in the Middle East in a way few other articles have. His time spent with the soldiers of the Israel Defense Forces allows us to see some of the real challenges and paradoxes of this conflict. The soldiers in this intimate portrait, while not eager for war, operate with professionalism, caution and a strong awareness of the limits of military force. By allowing their voices to be heard and their actions to be seen, the soldiers are replacing much of the distorting rhetoric that engulfs discussions of the conflict with the voices of those who are responsible for doing what they must do to stop terrorism. At the same time, they are also concerned with the long-term implications of their actions for peace between two peoples. Adam Gregerman New York",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"HAIR TODAY LEAD: The fashion pendulum is swinging again. Last year, many young women combined formal gowns with loose, tousled - read messy - hair. This year, the favored style for evening is perfectly neat - precise buns, demure chignons and ladylike French twists. The fashion pendulum is swinging again. Last year, many young women combined formal gowns with loose, tousled - read messy - hair. This year, the favored style for evening is perfectly neat - precise buns, demure chignons and ladylike French twists. Of course, this style is open to interpretation. One woman might fold her hair into a French twist in back, while leaving the front puffy in an over-the-brow gathering. Another may take the reverse approach: a high bun in back with bangs combed flat over the eyebrows. Perhaps the most elaborate version starts with a low ponytail, which is divided into small sections that are twisted, looped and pinned to form a bun. Ornaments can enhance the look, but usually the style itself is ample decoration. This textured bun hit two designers' runways at last month's showing of the spring 1989 American collections. Zanya Gissler, a freelance hair stylist who designed the models' hair for the Michael Kors show, chose the twisted bun for its youthful pizazz. 'The way you twist it changes the style,' she says. 'It doesn't have to be precise, and a woman can do it herself.' Sergio Valente, who owns salons in New York and Rome, created twists that resembled small perfect roses for the Oscar de la Renta show. While short haircuts are the rage in Paris, some women are not prepared to lop off their locks. But at first glance, the pulled-back styles look like short hair. They may well evolve to the chic rendition worn by Eleonor Scherrer, who parts her short hair on the side, lacquers it with gel and combs it neatly behind her ears. BEAUTY",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Popular Constitutionalism Now that it seems clear that Republicans will control the courts for the foreseeable future, canny liberals are beginning to wean themselves of the romantic idea that judges inevitably favor liberal values. And now these liberals have a rallying cry -- 'popular constitutionalism' -- which appears in the title of a book published this year by Larry Kramer, the new dean of Stanford Law School. In the early 90's, Kramer became interested in the idea that the public might do a better job of protecting its rights than the courts. He became convinced that the framers of the Constitution expected it to be interpreted not by unelected judges but by the people themselves -- through petitions, juries, voting and civil disobedience. Several years later, he was astonished to find the Supreme Court striking down laws one after the other and claiming to do so in the name of the founders' vision. Kramer is not the only scholar who has rediscovered the virtues of popular constitutionalism: the movement has both liberal and conservative adherents. Rather than dividing left from right, his book has divided populists from antipopulists. The book was sharply criticized in The New York Times by Laurence Tribe of Harvard, an unapologetic antipopulist who implied that popular constitutionalism could lead to mob rule. Kramer notes that the same predictions, which he considers elitist and alarmist, have been made throughout American history. He argues in his book that progressive movements have typically been popular movements, with the anomalous exception of the Warren Court, which led progressives to embrace the naïve belief that they could achieve their goals through the courts rather than through politics. He considers the liberal embrace of judicial supremacy to be a 'shortsighted and dangerous strategy.' Instead, Kramer says, liberals should resurrect political tools for controlling the courts that presidents from Jefferson to Lincoln embraced -- from Congressional filibusters of controversial nominees to efforts to strip the court of jurisdiction to hear controversial cases. Although these tools were used by conservatives to resist the civil rights movement, Kramer laments that they have been repudiated since the 60's by an unlikely alliance of antipopulists on both the left and right. 'From a historical perspective, it is a truly bizarre state of affairs,' he says. JEFFREY ROSEN THE 4TH ANNUAL: YEAR IN IDEAS",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"AND THEN THERE WAS FRANK Representative Barney Frank criticizes the Human Rights Campaign's contribution to the National Republican Campaign Committee, calling it ""stupid"" and suggesting that this money will go to Dick Armey and Newt Gingrich and their anti-gay agenda (""And Then There Was Frank,"" by Claudia Dreifus, Feb. 4). It is disappointing to see him mischaracterize the contribution. The facts are these: Out of $1 million to be donated in the 1995 and '96 election cycle, the Human Rights Campaign made a single $5,000 contribution to the N.R.C.C., specifically to support Republicans who believe that lesbians and gay men should not be discriminated against and who, like most Americans, want a strong response to the AIDS epidemic. Though I am a committed supporter of the Democratic Party, freedom and equal rights for lesbian and gay Americans are not questions of party affiliation and should never be relegated to mere partisan concerns. FRED P. HOCHBERG New York Co-Chairman, Human Rights Campaign Public Policy Committee",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"WHEN MEN HIT WOMEN Jan Hoffman's article ""When Men Hit Women"" (Feb. 16) hit me hard. In the end, it came down to the final paragraph: ""Ellen Pence's advice to women in battering relationships is simply this: Leave."" I was an abused wife for 10 years, until I finally got the courage to leave my husband last spring. While Pence's advice is entirely appropriate -- because men who abuse their women will not change -- it's never as easy as all that. For 10 years, I didn't even identify myself as a battered wife. I was desperately trying to fix something I believed in, my marriage, and to help someone I loved, my husband. In the early days, I cried to friends and they offered to come get me, but I always said no. For 10 years, I lived in terror, worried that I would say or do something to set him off. At first I was devastated every time he got angry. After a few years, I stopped caring. I stopped feeling anything at all. People think that battered wives are co-conspirators, that they participate in the abusive relationship and get something out of it. Believe me, they don't. They are trapped, under a spell. I wanted to wake up. If you suspect someone is being abused, she probably is. Risk getting involved. Risk alienating her. She wants to be rescued. I know. No one wants to be abused. NAME WITHHELD Fort Lee, N.J.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Ice Sturm 'What is it with hockey?' McGrath asks. As the father of a peewee goalie, I'll tell him. Hockey is a passionate game that requires commitment and character. It requires toughness, both mental and physical. McGrath asks why, in an age of parental effort to reduce risks, we would let our kids play such a rough and aggressive game. I would remind him of the men of Delta Force, on the ground in Somalia and now in Afghanistan, who routinely wear tricked-out hockey helmets. I would remind him of the citizen-athletes in Pennsylvania who prevented even more casualties on Sept. 11 thanks to their teamwork and commitment. I would remind him that life is risk. David Castro North Hollywood, Calif.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Imposing Values All this talk about family values reminds me of my grandfather, the patriarch I happen to have known best. I come from a long line of middle-class Midwesterners with Southern roots. My cousins and I learned to ""ma'am"" and ""sir"" our elders early on; I don't think I actually said ""no"" to an adult until I was in my early 20's. My grandfather was a lifelong Republican. I mention these particulars to pre-empt a credentials challenge on the part of those who have elected themselves the guardians of ""family values."" The thing is, my grandfather, while he came from a large and close-knit family and then sired another one, had no ""family values."" I remember him having only values. My cousins and I were raised with precepts. One of these happened to be ""throw the bums out every eight years,"" but this essay isn't about politics, so I'll set that one aside. A favorite precept of my grandfather's, outside of election years, was ""actions speak louder than words."" We were often treated to this one when we tried to smile and sweet-talk our way out of the consequences of some misbehavior (like the time I was tossed water balloons out of the front windows of my grandparents' house as my grandmother was carrying groceries up the steps). In light of this precept, I wonder what my grandfather would say about the habit his party has got into these days of loudly claiming family values as their own when, over the past 12 years, they have presided over the largest shift of wealth to the rich since the 1920's. As a man with five children who struggled through both the agricultural depression in the 20's and the Great Depression in the 30's, my grandfather clearly understood the stresses that this sort of wholesale destruction of the middle class and profound impoverishment of the working class bring to bear on ""family values,"" not to mention to families themselves. He knew that families do not hold together sheerly through an act of moral willpower, however they are exhorted to do so by those who live easier lives. I think he might have been suspicious. My grandfather did not hold members of other families to different standards than the standards he held for our family. Once, after letting off a hitchhiker who then failed to thank him for the ride, he collared the ""youth,"" as they were then often called, dragged him back into the car and gave him the sort of lecture on manners that my cousins and I were frequently subject to. His values were social and expansive, not centered on distinguishing and separating our family from others less or more fortunate. While I do not know my grandfather's sentiments on abortion, I do know that George Bush's position -- that abortion, though regrettable, would be a choice for his granddaughter, even as he seeks to deny that option to others -- would have mystified if not incensed him. My grandfather was a religious man with a beautiful baritone voice; he knew many hymns and attended church every Sunday. According to another of his precepts, often stated, that ""comparisons are odious,"" he did not compare his church with others and find the others wanting, nor did he ever discuss his religious views unless asked, much less impose them on anyone, inside the family or outside. He certainly would not have considered imposing them on countless strangers by political means. My cousins and I often discuss whether my grandfather was a racist. Certainly, he was a man of his time and place -- he lived most of his life in that former slave state of Missouri and he died before the civil rights revolution had really taken hold. It was my grandmother, a Western Democrat from a Progressive family who, after school desegregation, welcomed without batting an eyelid the black child I brought home for lunch from second grade. My grandfather happened to be at work, but he was proud of the fact that his own father, a doctor, had readily cared for both the white and black populations of the small town they lived in. And I often mull over another incident, related to me by my aunt after my grandfather's death. At the time, the family was living in an Illinois community with a dusk curfew for black people, not an uncommon civic measure in the 30's. It was summer, after supper, pouring rain, and my grandfather saw a young black man take shelter under a tree in the front yard. Without a word, he got up and went out into the rain. He asked the young man whether he had carfare to the next town over, which had no curfew. When the man admitted that he didn't, my grandfather pressed a coin into his hand and came into the house. I have often asked myself what this incident means. My grandfather did not exert himself against the unfair law. His action could be viewed as condescending. But I have come to see it as thoughtful and humane. He did not feel so removed from that young black man that he could not see things from his point of view, and he did not wish him harm. I can't help thinking that he would have strongly disapproved of the strategy of the Willie Horton ads, of phrases like ""welfare queen"" and of Pat Buchanan's call to ""take back our cities and take back our culture and take back our country."" Italics mine. My grandfather didn't look to politicians to mimic how his family worked, and thereby give his family a stamp of approval. I doubt he cared how theirs worked. He knew and honored the difference between the private world of belief and the public world of action. He expected elected officials to do their jobs, and he expected the voters and the press to do their nearly impossible jobs of keeping the politicians either honestly performing the public business or out of office. A worldly man, my grandfather might not have been surprised at the deeply cynical posturing of those self-proclaimed guardians of family values we see asserting their righteousness all over the media. But my grandfather had a terrific sense of humor, and I know he would have laughed and laughed at the idea of taking them as moral models. HERS Jane Smiley won the 1992 Pulitzer Prize for fiction for ""A Thousand Acres"" (Alfred A. Knopf).",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Running Free Gerald Yutzy has a decision to make. Like other Amish teenagers, Gerald at 16 entered his rumspringa, a period of 'running around' without parental restrictions that typically lasts a few years, during which he has to choose whether or not to join the church. He got a job and indulged in Levi's, cigarettes and, often enough, sex, drugs and zippers. Eventually, 85 to 90 percent of Gerald's peers choose to enter the fold. But five years into freedom, Gerald still isn't sure which life he wants. LIVES",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Our Journal After the actress Lynn Redgrave learned she had breast cancer in December 2002, she chose to undergo surgery, followed by a half-year regimen of chemotherapy and radiation. She also asked her daughter Annabel Clark, then a photography student at Parsons School of Design, if she would photograph the course of treatment and recovery. It was an idea that had occurred to Annabel as well: while her mother documented the experience in her journal, she would take pictures of the healing process -- and in so doing, become part of that process, for both her mother and herself. 'Goodbye to a part of me. It's done its job -- it's been a good nurturer of my children.' . . . Time to say goodbye. 'Went to the service at the Congregational church. . . . By the end I feel peaceful and optimistic. . . . A way to be part of the community. A way to feel I am not alone in my worries. . . . Horrible upsetting phone calls regarding Annabel photographing at chemo, etc. Thank God that finally got cleared up. I cried so much. I realized how much her documenting this means to me.' 'I've done my exercises, but my scar tissue grips and grabs like a tight iron corset. I don't feel pretty. I feel a little sad. . . . I need to get my papers and records under control. . . . It's all about order, I've decided. The pleasure I get and the sense of my life in place, amidst the things that I can't control. . . . As I do things like fold my napkins into my linen closet. . . . Or leaving clean clothes in my closet. Logs stacked. Dishes clean. Garbage out. Cats fed. Their hallway neat. It all gives me the warmest satisfaction.'",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Year in Ideas I found it intriguing that in the future, we may be able to listen to cell vibrations to determine if a cell is cancerous. It would be great for the body to vibrate and say, 'Everything is fine -- come back next year.' Martin Blumberg Woodbury, N.Y.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Infrared Pet Dry Room, The In September, at the FCI Seoul International Dog Show, the Korean engineering company Daun ENG introduced what may be the most radical new dog product since the chew toy. The Infrared Pet Dry Room is, as its name suggests, a chamber into which you place a wet dog in order to dry him or her via infrared radiation. Because infrared rays penetrate the dermis, they warm and dry an animal more quickly than a blow-dryer does, and they do so without resulting in the kinds of skin rashes that blow-dryers often cause. The downside of infrared rays, or at least of the Infrared Pet Dry Room, is that no matter how many times you are assured of its safety, it's hard not think that a dog stepping inside the machine will be roasted faster than a Ball Park frank. The other worry is that the experience of being locked inside a glowing red box might cause a dog some anxiety. But in a recent interview with Aving, an online product reviewer in Korea, Kim Sun Man, C.E.O. of Daun ENG, tried to put skeptics at ease. 'We actually had about 100 dogs tested and found some of them produced a secretion while being in the machine,' he said. 'But most of them stayed calm.' Joel Lovell",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"On Language; Misrule of Thumb 'We had to go by rule of thumb,' said Louis Katz, vice president of the George Washington University, explaining some funding problems to The gw Hatchet, an independent student newspaper. This seemingly innocent figure of speech drew fire from a female student, Jess Brinn, who wrote: 'For the unaware, in English vernacular, rule of thumb refers to an obvious solution of doing things the way they have always been done. However, the phrase originated in English common law, where a man was permitted to beat his wife as long as the rod he used was no bigger than the width of his thumb.' She excoriated the 'misogynistic connotations ... disrespectful to women and men alike,' and while assuming the university official intended no disrespect, noted, 'We should all know what we're saying and where the phrases we use come from.' So we should. The president of G.W., Stephen Joel Trachtenberg, sends me the student paper and asks, 'Can this possibly be true?' The irate student could point to a brouhaha that arose in 1782, when Francis Buller, an English judge, was said to have made a remark in public along those lines. He was promptly jumped on by several caricaturists, including the first great political caricaturist, James Gillray; on Nov. 27 of that year, he depicted a berobed judge with an armload of sticks saying: 'Who wants a cure for a nasty wife? Here's a nice Family Amusement for Winter Evenings.' Meanwhile a wife is shouting, 'Murder!' and a husband is shouting back: 'Murder, hey? It's Law you Bitch! It's not bigger than my Thumb!' In his time, Gillray set the standard for satiric savagery, making today's cartoonists like Paul Conrad and Pat Oliphant appear as gentle as Charles Schulz. The pioneering Gillray drew drawings that drew blood, taking on even the feared journalistic vituperator William Cobbett; by the time the caricaturist died insane in 1815, he had forever saddled the eminent jurist, Buller, with the name 'Judge Thumb.' Thus, the notion that rule of thumb has its roots in the subjugation of women has a history. But a u.c.l.a. professor of English, Henry Ansgar Kelly, in the September 1994 Journal of Legal Education, titles his lengthy scholarly investigation 'Rule of Thumb and the Folklaw [pun intended] of the Husband's Stick.' His conclusion about the origin of the phrase in wife-beating: 'Rule of thumb has received a bad rap.' That's because its first appearance in print is cited in the o.e.d. as 1692, nearly a century before Gillray's 'Judge Thumb.' Sir William Hope, in 'The Compleat Fencing Master,' wrote, 'What he doth, he doth by rule of Thumb, and not by Art.' It was reported in 1721 in Kelly's Scottish Proverbs: 'No Rule so good as Rule of Thumb.' The meaning is 'a roughly practical method, or an assertion based on experience.' Origin? Could be that carpenters used the width of their thumbs to approximate an inch, or that artists held up their thumbs to gain perspective on a distant object, or that gardeners used their green thumbs as guides to depth of seeding. The idea that rule of thumb is derived from an early form of spousal abuse is in error. It's 'folk etymology,' amusing, even plausible with its first citation two centuries old, but inaccurate. (The gender-sensitive will not, however, denounce it sexistly as an old wives' tale.) WANDERING WORDS 'When I use a word,' said Humpty-Dumpty, ' ...it means just what I choose it to mean -- neither more nor less.' That is the voice of the hard-edged prescriptivist, in the quotation most often cited by those of us in the usage dodge to all of you semantic drifters who let meanings go fuzzy. And yet years later, Lewis Carroll, author of the book in which the Mother Goose character Humpty-Dumpty makes that linguistic assertion, wrote, 'You know, words mean more than we mean to express when we use them.' That takes the opposite view; descriptivists, like most lexicographers, hold that words have a range of meanings that change with the times, and can carry messages different from what the speakers choose them to mean. I found that apparent conflict in Carroll's thinking about language in a recent article by Robert K. Merton, the great Columbia sociologist, now 85 and the proud father of this year's winner of the Nobel Prize in economics. 'Here is Humpty-Dumpty speaking for the would-be exactitude of scientific denotation,' writes Merton, 'intent on abolishing overtones and undertones with all their interpreted ambiguities. And there is his reflective creator speaking, many years later, of the shades of meaning to be found in humanistic connotation, with its often more evident variety of meanings we need not wittingly mean.' Barnacles attach themselves to words, as crustaceans to ships' hulls, freighting a term with meaning beyond the ship itself. Merton found a resonation of Carroll's ambiguity in the works of Henry Adams: 'No one means all he says, and yet very few say all they mean,' wrote the historian Adams, 'for words are slippery and thought is viscous.' Pity about the choice of the last word in that quotation; Adams meant 'adhesive, sticky,' still the dictionary definition, but most people now associate viscous with viscosity, having to do with the flow of oil in a cold engine. Besides, viscous looks like vicious. Better to have written 'words are slippery and thought is sticky.' Why sticky and not tacky, which also means 'adhesive'? Because tacky has been barnacled by usage with another sense as 'low-class, unstylish, icky.' Not a word that means what I choose it to mean.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Introduction Lisa Belkin's cover article drew graphic mail corroborating her report on people who have been driven from their homes by toxic mold. And others said that, rather than seeking a remedy in the courts, the focus should be on finding the cause (air-conditioning? humidity?) and a solution.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Silent Green gdiapers Jason and Kimberley Graham-Nye could have named their product the Eco-Diaper. After all, one of their chief motivations for selling a 'flushable diaper system' is to offer an alternative to disposable diapers, which contribute to landfills and take years to biodegrade. But instead they went with the name gDiapers, which doesn't mean anything. Well, they would put it differently: they say that the 'g' could stand for 'green,' but it could also mean 'groovy.' The point is to leave things vague enough that a consumer might be drawn in by gDiapers' fashionably bright colors, comfort or perhaps just the novelty factor, and then learn that, 'P.S., they save the planet,' Jason suggests. While saving the planet seems like sort of too big a deal to reduce to a postscript, the Graham-Nyes figure too much emphasis on the ecofactor would restrict their product's appeal to what they call 'dark green' consumers. GDiapers were introduced in the U.S. just six months ago in a handful of green-friendly stores like the New Seasons Market in Portland, Ore., but after a successful test run at Whole Foods outlets on the West Coast, that chain will soon distribute the product nationally. GDiapers are positioned as a third option for parents facing the familiar cloth-or-disposable choice. A $25 starter set comes with two pairs of washable 'pants' (in 'groovy' red, orange, blue or green) and 10 removable liners; when a liner is soiled, it's flushed down the toilet. A refill pack of 32 flushable liners costs $14, roughly the same as 40 Huggies. The Graham-Nyes did not invent the product: they found it at a baby-products expo in Australia, where it has been on the market since 1991 under the name Baby Weenees Eco Nappy Products. They loved the product and felt strongly that it could be successful in other parts of the world -- provided it was given a different image, with more broad appeal. So they bought the rights to market and sell it outside of Australia and New Zealand. Although greenness seems trendier than ever, its limitations as a selling point are the subject of a recent article in the journal Environment, titled 'Avoiding Green Marketing Myopia.' The authors (Jacquelyn Ottman, Edwin Stafford and Cathy Hartman) argue that many ecofriendly products fail precisely because the companies that make them put too much emphasis on the whole save-the-planet thing. To reach the mainstream, they say, such products need the attributes any product needs: cost effectiveness, convenience, status and so on. The article's marquee example is a light bulb that flopped when it was positioned as Earth-friendly but took off when it was reintroduced as a money-saver. In an interview, Stafford and Hartman pointed to the Prius, which enjoys a whopping price premium for reasons that probably have as much to do with status as with saving the planet. Status is now the most familiar selling tactic for many greenish products, and it is clearly the factor that the Graham-Nyes hope to introduce into the convenience-versus-ethics predicament of the diaper buyer; in fact, they specifically say they want to be 'the Toyota Prius of diapers.' GDiapers are more work than disposables, and while the company says the product complies with various official guidelines that make them safely flushable, there's also a bit on their site about how to handle the 'icky' toilet-clog possibility. Still, for parents who find cloth diapers an unacceptable hassle, they provide a new way to obtain the status (or smugness) of avoiding disposables. The Graham-Nyes have encouraged gDiapers zealots to spread the word about the product through a 'Pioneers' program. And from these core, early consumers they have picked up a fresh perspective. Dads, it turns out, have a 'different response' to gDiapers, Jason says. 'What they love is that there's no garbage.' Soiled disposable diapers are often stuffed into a device that crushes them down by the score, where they sit until they're eventually hauled out with the trash. Stafford, a marketing professor and a father himself, says he can imagine bragging to other parents about finding a way to avoid disposables on garbage night. 'The nonsmell factor' doesn't sound sexy, he says, but it's definitely a concept that even the most eco-indifferent parent can understand. And those, of course, are the parents the Graham-Nyes want most of all. THE WAY WE LIVE NOW: 7-23-06: CONSUMED",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"In the Face of Death I agree that Jeremy Gross's childhood was terrible, but I found it disturbing that his lawyer was allowed to use it to manipulate the emotions of the jury. By the end of the trial, the jury regarded Gross as much a victim as the person he killed. Maybe I'm being unsympathetic, but I think there is something truly wrong with that. Kira Glassman New York",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Way We Live Now: 4-22-01: The Ethicist; Help-Wanted Help I am a recruiter for a temp agency. Many companies that use us practice nationality-, sex-, age- or race-based discrimination. I can cooperate, making me personally guilty and legally liable. I can dispatch applicants solely on ability, knowing they are not welcome. Or I can cease to deal with such clients, forfeiting revenue. Is there a positive alternative to simply leaving the industry? -- Anonymous, N.C. What you describe is not only unethical; it is criminal. 'This has been illegal since July 1965,' says Daniel Pollitt, the Kenan Professor of Law Emeritus at the University of North Carolina. 'Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964 forbids most of this. Age and disability discrimination were added later.' While it is difficult for a single individual to resist such pervasive iniquity, passive acceptance is not an honorable option. Fortunately, there is the positive solution you seek: call the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission, the federal agency charged with enforcing Title VII. And, Pollitt adds, the E.E.O.C. is conveniently located: 'They've got offices in Charlotte and in Raleigh.' I am an attractive female, almost 30, attending college, and I like one of my professors. He is in my age range and is single but says it is not ethical to date students. I understand that and have offered to drop his class. So what gives? Could this just be his way of saying, 'Hey, I am not interested'? -- J.W., Fresno, Calif. Many colleges have rules governing this situation. If you violate them, you can get the object of your affections into serious trouble, and there's nothing seductive about that. Such codes are designed to protect students from sexual harassment, always a risk when there is a power imbalance in a couple -- for example, when one gives grades to the other. So first learn what the rules are. If your school forbids relationships only between a professor and a current student, then wait until next semester to pursue this fellow. Consider him an investment in your sexual future. Love is notorious for disregarding any rules that try to govern it, and it is true that more than one student-teacher intrigue has evolved into a happy (or not so happy) marriage. However, if Professor Dreamboat declines to date you, it doesn't matter if he's guided by his head or his heart (if those are the relevant body parts): you're out of luck either way. My well-fed and well-cared-for cat is an inveterate 'mouser.' She often returns from hunting with a live mouse and then begins her play ritual -- throwing it in the air and catching it, swatting it around, etc. Eventually, she eats it whole. Should I intervene and save the mouse such cruel suffering, or should I let nature take its course? -- Jeffrey Adler, Salem, N.Y. Much that is natural is entirely dreadful -- smallpox comes immediately to mind -- and so we persistently seek to thwart nature's most painful manifestations. That's pretty much what civilization is all about. You ought not passively tolerate cruelty to animals, even a mouse, just because it's practiced by a cat. Would you let your cat rob a bank and rough up the patrons? (You know, if it were a superintelligent cat that could write a robbery note and hold a gun?) You should intervene not to reform the cat but to protect the mouse from suffering. Incidentally, if your cat is so well fed from eating canned food in your kitchen, she is not exactly in a state of nature as I (and all those animal shows on public TV) understand it.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Fear and Laptops On the Campaign Trail I love the way the mainstream press finds itself scratching its collective head, wondering if political blogs are a 'good' thing. Get over it. If not for the bloggers, stories you guys refuse to tell would drop into the memory hole forever. Don't be bitter because they're doing your job. Delia Coleman Chicago",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Fear Itself I read Krugman's lucid and comprehensive analysis right through to the end. While I still don't know what's going to happen in the next months or years, I now understand the factors that influence the economy. Diana Quick Brooklyn",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"THE TRIALS OF BOB PACKWOOD Guilty of what? Bob Packwood may be guilty of suffering from a mood disorder that often accompanies intellectual brilliance. In Trip Gabriel's exposition, the Senator exhibits mood swings, ranging from almost total loss of self-esteem to campaign work of manic proportions to amorous outbursts. Mood-swing problems, known also as bipolar affective disorder, have a good prognosis, without loss of intellectual capacity. The stresses of Packwood's political life alone might account for a latent tendency to this sort of depression. GEORGE B. JOHNSON, M.D. Fairfield, Conn.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Odds of That Lisa Belkin's article on probability is one of the best I've seen. Those who go to Atlantic City or Las Vegas in hopes of winning big should read it. Maybe their life savings could be protected. It is too bad a course of simple probability isn't taught in grade school. William J. Garner Yardley, Pa.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The World According to Powell It is always difficult to critique a man you respect, but having served in combat as a marine, both in Vietnam and the gulf war, I have sadly reached this conclusion with regard to Secretary Powell: good man, timid general; linear-thinking company man, always with a company plan. And, the crazy paradox of it all: if Paul Wolfowitz had worn the general's stars and Powell the statesmen's suit during the gulf war and beyond, we just may have precluded the Sept. 11 debacle. Great wartime leadership takes more than being the world's most popular man. When we need George Patton, we get Ike. Joseph A. Conforti South Easton, Mass.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Sunday May 26, 1996: WAR IS HELL (crossed out) FUN;Tanked Up Beating plowshares into swords, a farmer in Collingbourne Ducis, England, has turned his wheat fields into a training ground for novice tank drivers. The half-day course at the Tank Driving Center at Highland Park (it costs L95, about $145) teaches weekend warriors to handle a 750-horsepower, 55-ton Chieftain tank over 20 acres of hills, curves and craters. Chris Vincent purchased the first of his 20 tanks at a post-cold-war tag sale in 1993. ""We just went out one day and bought one for riding around the farm,"" he says. ""After word spread, people we hadn't seen in years began dropping by. Soon it became apparent that we had a business on our hands, so we advertised and received a tremendous response."" One recent Sunday at the center, 70 miles west of London, Michael Dukakis imitators included a bespectacled grandmother, couples on dates and a former military sniper, who proudly recounted his successful kills. (No accidental tank kills here; guns have been deactivated.) The school intends to expand its theater of operations. A cafe will replace a horse stable, and a barn may one day house a souvenir shop. There are even plans to restore an armored personnel carrier and outfit it with a dual steering system like those used by driving schools. ""It'll be a family tank,"" says John Curtis, an instructor, ""great for kids who can't reach the pedals.""",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"A Friend For All Seasons MY FRIENDS HAVE GIRLFRIENDS from day camp, from second grade, from nursery school. I, on the other hand, have Harry. We have known each other for 30 years. He is my oldest friend. I do not have old girlfriends -- although I wish I did, just as I wish I were two inches taller or marginally less moody, more of a regular gal. But I inherited from my mother a tendency to take everything personally, and from my father, a dogged ambition; the combination made for a cut-and-run adolescence. Which is not to say I was an outcast. Just that I was in a hurry, wary of becoming comfortable. This made Harry the perfect pal. He defied category -- interested equally in magic tricks, poetry and alcohol. He was mysterious without any of the flirty baggage that made other boys so complicated. Harry told me he would be dead before 40, like the other men in his family. He did not have time for the usual teen-age rituals. We were sarcastic and restless. And we were comfortably mismatched, which may be the key to our longevity. He still remembers the ""lunch from another planet"" that my mother served when he dropped by one summer afternoon -- cold borscht with sour cream, an unremarkable meal in our Jewish home. I found his quiet, dark, fatherless house -- I cannot recall his mother's feet making any sound as they hit the floor -- a comforting escape from my combustible family. We went for endless bicycle rides along Lake Michigan. I appeared in one of Harry's poems (""damned deodand of bike and Jewess""), which I immediately tucked into my wallet, and subsequent wallets, for years. While I cannot lay my hands on it right now, I know it is in this house somewhere. When I picked the wrong college, Harry, a sophomore at a men's school nearby, showed up for a big football weekend so I would have a date for the scheduled festivities. And he believed that I might become a writer -- no big deal today, maybe, but a minority opinion at the dawn of the women's movement. He is the only person with whom I have been falling-down drunk -- six whisky sours, The Orange Bar, Syracuse, 1968. I may be the only person who knows he used to have a manual typewriter at his bedside so he could record his dreams the instant he woke up. I liked to listen to his dreams. I led such a matter-of-fact existence -- Rice Krispies, matching kilts and knee socks. Harry was my escape. At this point in the narrative my husband likes to smirk. He thinks this is all polite euphemism. He refers to Harry as ""my wife's high-school boyfriend."" Yes and no. We dated a little during Harry's senior year, and the summer after he graduated. And there was a fervid interlude when we were both in college, long nights of sexual brinkmanship in a deserted fraternity house. He said please, I said no. I changed my mind and he held back. We were never lovers. This is where the story usually ends. People don't know how to be friends with someone who never wanted them or doesn't want them anymore. But Harry and I were lucky. Somehow we understood that this was not rejection. It was fumbling, of the late-teen-age, presexual revolution variety. Nothing personal; a rehearsal for later life. We escaped with our affections intact -- but three years later, we had a disagreement on a topic neither of us remembers and retreated to opposite sides of the country. The annual transcontinental phone calls began in the mid-70's. Steadfast as ever, Harry would call late at night with a grocery list of questions, and we would talk until we caught up. I called him once, when an abrasive first marriage made me wonder whether I had ever been a decent person; Harry was the only one with a historical perspective. He showed up in Los Angeles in 1978 in a rumpled summer suit and with a swollen jaw, the result of emergency dental work. When he came back in 1985 we were both better off: I had a second sweet husband and a new book; he had a computer software company and a businessman's dark-blue suit. Then, in 1990, he and his new wife stopped by on their way to see a doctor in San Diego. Harry had made it to just past 40, but barely. He had already undergone open-heart surgery; he had pills, he was on a no-fat diet, but still his arteries threatened to close up. It had been 20 years since I kissed him, and we never had the kind of wonderfully sloppy physical relationship that women have so easily with each other. But I wanted to do something. Harry once extracted me from a vitriolic family picnic, and then sat with me while I sobbed about the great injustice of being born. Now I listened to him crack wise about the coronary Roto-Rooter -- and I did not know what to do to rescue him. So I handed him our then-infant daughter. I was one of those loopy late Moms who believe our children personify nothing less than hope, promise and magic. Maybe Sarah's invincibility would rub off on Harry. Given the careful vocabulary of our friendship, it was all I could think of to offer. Go head, sneer. Six years later, Harry has just become a father himself. We allow ourselves a sweet joke here: perhaps some day Sarah and young William will meet and fall in love. We like, now, to talk about the passage of time -- Harry, who always thought he had too little of it, and me, still eternally in a hurry. Our friendship exists at more of an emotional distance than I imagine it would have been between old women friends. We visit the past for entertainment and its charm -- but never long enough to make judgments about what we did or did not do. The important thing at this point is to maintain, because there is much at stake: Harry has known me longer than any other woman in his life (except his mom), and I have known him longer than any man except my dad. My husband has a friend named Harry who lives down the street and is our daughter's godfather, and recently Sarah wanted to figure out how to distinguish one Harry from the other. Calling them new Harry and old Harry seemed wrong, since they both have been our friends for decades. We settled on ""our Harry,"" for her godfather, and ""my Harry,"" for my friend. He, however, calls Sarah's godfather ""the other Harry,"" wishing to assert his pre-eminence in the field. That's O.K. with me. HERS Karen Stabiner is writing a book on the war againstbreast cancer. She lives in Santa Monica, Calif.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"ADVENTURES OF A REPUBLICAN REVOLUTIONARY It's very easy nowadays to tell whether your feature story will cast a positive or negative light on its subject. The reader need only look at the cover photo. When you disapprove (as with Mark Neumann's politics), it will be an extreme and repellent close-up -- eyes, nose and mouth only, with every pore, hair follicle and furrow in sharp focus. The reader's natural reaction is physically to push him (and his politics) away. EDWARD SARAYDAR London, Ontario EDITORS' NOTE: Neumann defeated his Democratic opponent, Lydia Spottswood, by 1,988 votes in the First Congressional District in Wisconsin.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Disability Gulag It takes Harriet McBryde Johnson (Nov. 23), who can't get out of bed by herself, to tell us what sovereign creatures we are: that the soul, mind and spirit define a human being. Annie Gottlieb New York",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Design 2002 You needn't pay $500 for interestingly worn-out jeans. Just visit any poor nation -- Haiti, for example -- and you'll see laboring men on every street in splendid examples. No doubt they'd gladly exchange theirs for a new pair, all for around $20. Sure, a trip to Haiti will cost you, but you'll get a bonus: a sense of how obscene it is to pay $500 so you can play at being one of the world's working poor. The Rev. Joan A. Shelton Washington",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"What a College Education Buys How important is college to Americans? Put it this way: When Philip Zelikow, the State Department counselor who worked often on Israel-Palestine issues, resigned in November, he cited 'some truly riveting obligations to college bursars.' That's how important college is -- it's more important than peace in the Middle East. The Democrats' promise last fall to make college more affordable for the middle class was a no-lose gambit. It pleased everybody. When the new majority voted in January to halve the interest rate on federally guaranteed student loans, 124 Republicans joined them. 'I just think that we need more of our kids going to school,' said Representative Roscoe Bartlett, a Maryland Republican. But given that 45 percent of U.S. high-school graduates already enroll in four-year colleges, how dire can this 'need' be? Certain influential Americans have begun to reassert the old wisdom that a college education is one of those things, like sky diving and liverwurst, that are both superb and not for everybody. Not long ago, the conservative social scientist Charles Murray wrote a three-part series in The Wall Street Journal in which he attacked the central assumption behind President George Bush's No Child Left Behind initiative. The idea that 'educators already know how to educate everyone and that they just need to try harder' is a costly wrong impression, he wrote. Not all schoolchildren have the intellectual capacity to reach 'basic achievement' levels. In college, similar limitations apply. The number of Americans with the brains to master the most challenging college classes, Murray argued, is probably closer to 15 percent than to 45. Of course, part of the reason Americans think everyone should go to college is for its noneducational uses. Anyone can benefit from them. Colleges are the country's most effective marriage brokers. They are also -- assuming you don't study too hard -- a means of redistributing four years' worth of leisure time from the sad stub-end of life to the prime of it. (Just as youth shouldn't be wasted on the young, retirement shouldn't be wasted on the old.) But the price of college long ago outstripped the value of these goods. The most trustworthy indicator that an American college education is something worthwhile is that parents nationwide -- and even worldwide -- are eager to pay up to $180,000 to get one for their children. This is a new development. A quarter-century ago, even the top Ivy League schools were a bargain at $10,000 a year, but they received fewer applications than they do now. Presumably, college is steadily more expensive because its benefits are steadily more visible. In 1979, according to the economists Frank Levy and Richard Murnane, a 30-year-old college graduate earned 17 percent more than a 30-year-old high-school grad. Now the gap is over 50 percent. These numbers don't tell us much about how people get educated at a typical American college offers. You can go to college to get civilized (in the sense that your thoughts about your triumphs and losses at the age of 55 will be colored and deepened by an encounter with Horace or Yeats at the age of 19). Or you can go there to get qualified (in the sense that Salomon Brothers will snap you up, once it sees your B.A. in economics from M.I.T.). Most often, parents must think they are paying for the latter product. Great though Yeats may be, 40-some-odd thousand seems a steep price to pay for his acquaintance. The timeless questions that college provokes -- like 'What the hell are you going to do with a degree in English?' -- must get shouted across dinner tables with increasing vehemence as college costs rise inexorably. But the education kids are rewarded for may not be the same education their parents think they are paying for. Economists would say that a college degree is partly a 'signaling' device -- it shows not that its holder has learned something but rather that he is the kind of person who could learn something. Colleges sort as much as they teach. Even when they don't increase a worker's productivity, they help employers find the most productive workers, and a generic kind of productivity can be demonstrated as effectively in medieval-history as in accounting classes. Moreover, if you're not planning on becoming, say, a doctor, the benefits of diligent study can be overstated. In recent decades, the biggest rewards have gone to those whose intelligence is deployable in new directions on short notice, not to those who are locked into a single marketable skill, however thoroughly learned and accredited. Most of the employees who built up, say, Google in its early stages could never have been trained to do so, because neither the company nor the idea of it existed when they were getting their educations. Under such circumstances, it's best not to specialize too much. Something like the old ideal of a 'liberal education' has had a funny kind of resurgence, minus the steeping in Western culture. It is hard to tell whether this success vindicates liberal education's defenders (who say it 'teaches you how to think') or its detractors (who say it camouflages a social elite as a meritocratic one). Maybe college cannot become much more accessible. The return on college degrees must eventually fall as more people get them, and probably not everyone wants one. In France, people often refer to their education as a 'formation.' The word implies that an increase in your specialized capabilities is bought at a price in flexibility and breadth of knowledge. In most times and places, this bitter trade-off is worth it. But for the past few years at least, the particular advantage of an American degree has been that it doesn't qualify you to do anything in particular. THE WAY WE LIVE NOW: 2-25-07 Christopher Caldwell is a contributing writer for the magazine.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Packing It In Like a lot of things, it started with the kids. But these days, the urban backpack army has no enlistment restrictions, age or otherwise, and the recruits, like the packs they carry, come in all sizes and shapes. For the metropolitan portage, briefcases and handbags are the flagging totes of tradition; backpacks are for the ergonomically correct. Some people select packs for haute fashion rather than high transport, while others remain true to the trail-breaking originals. Whichever, the veterans do know how to turn their backs on people in the elevator without committing battery. But what inquiring minds really want to know is, What's in there anyway? Crystal, 10, fifth grader Pack: 12 pounds Binder Homework Two text books Work sheets Folders Assignment book Spiral notebook ""Island of the Blu Dolphins,"" a novel ""A Wind in the Door"" (""my personal book"") Reinforcements Pens Keys $1 A handful of change John, 28, third-year associate at law firm Pack: 8 pounds Snoopy birthday card from mother Antonio Carlos Jobim CD Fake Oakley sunglasses missing a lens The missing lens Two Chapsticks Contact lens moisture drops Two Loews Theater mints Two boxes of matches, one from coffee shop called Limbo and one from cigar store, Nat Sherman The New York Times Workout clothes Paul Mitchell leave-in conditioner Purpose Dual Treatment lotion The New York Review of Books ""A History of the Jews"" paperback Two tokens 86~ in change Rolled-up striped tie Design for birthday card for ex-girlfriend ""Void if Detached"" stub Saks receipt Loose pumpkin seeds One dirty athletic sock Car voucher Robert, 74, actor Pack: 4 pounds Pictures and resumes Aspirin Two pairs of glasses ""Lew Hunter's Screenwriting"" paperback Pens Sticks of Extra gum Asthma inhaler Ziploc bag containing toothbrush, toothpaste, earplugs, wash-ups, nail clippers Raime, 13 eighth grader Pack: 18 pounds (""usually about 25"") Empty royal blue insulated lunch bag Two French books Algebra book Latin book Big spiral notebook with Nirvana sticker Accordion folder with ""Vegetarians Taste Better"" sticker ""Night,"" a memoir by Elie Wiesel Stolen ""Disordre"" baseball cap Wite-Out dots Calculator Latin flash cards ""Sergio and odair Assad Guitars"" CD (on loan) ""Type to Learn"" diskette Bus-pass holder without bus pass Chapstick Taryn, 18, ballet dancer Pack: 10 pounds Warm-up clothes Pair of jazz shoes Two pairs of pointe shoes Oxblood Cambridge organizer Aleve pain reliever Cassettes Walkman Earphones Sunglasses Lipstick Cinnamon dental floss and needle) (""for sewing my pointe shoes"") Plenty-pack of Extra peppermint gum One crystal (""my birthstone"") Abigail, 21, sales associate Pack: 6 pounds Empty Tupperware sandwich holder Pint-size bottle of Evian Folder Cosmolitan magazine House keys Car keys Lotion Pens Saline solution Three packs of gum One pack of Marlboro Lights Napkins blue lighter Lord & Taylor ID pin SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 1995: BAGGAGE CLAIMS",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Breaking Glass he morning of my wedding, my father gave me a piece of unexpected advice. 'When you step on the glass,' he said, 'why don't you imagine that all the doubts and fears of childhood are inside and that you're smashing them too?' He was referring to one of the more mysterious customs at a Jewish wedding, in which the bridegroom stamps on a glass, marking the end of the ceremony. I liked my father's suggestion, though I was so afraid that the wineglass, wrapped in a white handkerchief, would shoot out unbroken (as I had once seen happen) that I forgot everything in my pulverizing zeal. But I was touched by his words, particularly because breaking the glass had already assumed a symbolic place in my mind -- though one connected not to my own childhood but to his. I was married on Nov. 10, the anniversary of Kristallnacht. The German name, which means 'the night of broken glass,' is too euphoniously euphemistic to describe accurately what really happened in 1938, beginning on the night of Nov. 9 and running into the next day. Mobs, urged on by the Nazi Government, ran amok throughout Germany and Austria, murdering, looting, smashing Jewish shop windows and burning synagogues. Thirty thousand Jews were arrested -- including my grandfather, my father's father. My father was 14, and Kristallnacht shattered his world. One month later he left Vienna on a children's transport, finding refuge first in Scotland and later in the United States. He never saw his parents again. Strange, then, that I chose the anniversary of this terrible day for my wedding five years ago. I cannot claim this was strictly by design. I'd wanted to get married in winter and my wife-to-be had inched the date forward until we settled on Nov. 10. It was my father who pointed out the eerie accident. He did not ask me to change the date, but we easily could have. We had planned a small wedding in my parents' house. But after initial discomfort the coincidence had a distinct, if perverse, appeal. More than 50 years had passed since the pogrom of 1938. The world could not be counted on to remember forever -- hadn't I myself forgotten the date? Here was a way to graft my father's story onto my own. Soon the year 2000, with its obliterating zeros, would roll the terrible events of the 20th century deeper into the past. My wedding would at least guarantee a kind of private commemoration. I would lash a piece of history to my back and carry it with me into the future. But by mingling Kristallnacht with my own wedding, was I preserving it or erasing it further? Perhaps I did not wish to mark the date so much as unmark it -- a typical childhood fantasy. I wanted to make whole my father's broken past, to offer up my own wedding as the joyful answer to tragic times. Both impulses, of course, are equally grandiose and impossibly naive. My own life can never contain or summarize the suffering of earlier generations, any more than it can answer or redeem those losses. My father understood this when he spoke to me on the morning of my wedding. For all he knew of the world, he could still have for me a father's wish -- that I would banish the fears of childhood, even though the fears of his childhood were fully founded in real events. Every generation is born innocent, and if that is bad for history, it is nevertheless necessary for life. And yet how can I stop trying to connect myself in some way to the past? Which brings me back to my wedding and the ritual of the broken glass, which forms the final moment of the traditional Jewish ceremony. There are several explanations for this practice. The one I like is that it is a reminder of the destruction of the temple in Jerusalem -- an event that happened some 1,900 years ago -- and in a larger sense, a reminder that the world itself is broken and imperfect. Smashing the glass recalls this fact and introduces a fleeting note of sadness into an otherwise festive occasion. It is in this spirit that I celebrate my wedding anniversary today. I think about my grandparents who were murdered and their son -- my father -- who escaped to America and married my mother. I think about my own lucky American life and joyful marriage and how little, and how much, separates the past from the present, sorrow from celebration. I hear my father's kind advice, the cheerful cries of friends and family and the distant echo of breaking glass. LIVES Jonathan Rosen is associate editor of the Forward. His first novel, 'Eve's Apple,' will be published in the spring.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Way We Live Now: Questions for Genndy Tartakovsky; The Big Draw Q: 'Dexter's Laboratory,' your first series, was an almost instant hit. For those who don't know him, or just think they do, who is he? Dexter is a dork. He's part of everybody: the little kid who just wants to do science but who's frustrated. It's what everybody deals with. That's what makes it funny. If you have a character who wins all the time -- well, if you have a character that loses and wins, it makes him more alive. Bugs Bunny, for example, didn't always win. Dexter speaks with a Russian accent. He considers himself a very serious scientist, and all well-known scientists have accents. Come on. He's an outsider who speaks Russian-inflected English with a Russian accent. Your family emigrated from Moscow when you were 9. Isn't Dexter your Mini-Me? Definitely that was a big part of my childhood: wanting to fit. As an immigrant, you talk funny, you look funny, you smell funny. I wanted to do nothing but fit in and talk English and sit with everybody else. The one thing about Dexter, if he doesn't fit in, he'll start his own club. He's not afraid to be an outsider. He's much more confident. So, O.K., an upgraded fantasy version of your boyhood self. And it's hard not to notice that Samurai Jack, the character in your new series, looks an awful lot like you as an adult. Someone else told me that. I definitely don't think he looks like me. But as an artist, sometimes you can't help yourself. If you're a tall guy, everything is lengthy. If you're short and fat, you draw things that are squat. What's the secret to reaching kids? How do you avoid condescending to them? One of the things I hate about TV, and TV for kids, is that it talks down to them. If you go back in animation history and look at Bugs Bunny, for example, they were made for adults and were shown before theatrical movies. They were still cartoons, so they had to be childlike, to a degree: slapsticky, Three Stooges, physical humor. A good cartoon is always good on two or three levels: surface physical comedy, some intellectual stuff -- like Warner Brothers cartoons' pop-culture jokes, gas-rationing jokes during the war -- and then the overall character appeal. Funny you mentioned Bugs Bunny. Your approach to storytelling is so far from the typical Saturday morning fare. It's practically deconstructed. How did you conceive that approach? Animation has repeated itself for the past 40 years. The technical side has improved, but not the storytelling. Usually you tell stories A to B to C. 'Samurai' is not an animated show like you would normally watch on TV. We tell the stories from a different perspective -- backward, very nonlinear. It treats it more seriously as an art form. I'm not trying to sell the 'Samurai Jack' action figure. You would say no to marketing? There might be a 'Samurai Jack' action figure. Those things will happen; it's not the intent. With 'The Simpsons' and all its spinoffs, countless animated feature films, a cartoon network . . . is this a particularly fertile moment for animation? Or does it just seem like that? Animation used to be the dregs of the industry. Now the idea of the creator-driven cartoon is becoming more accepted. It didn't happen right away. Now with Cartoon Network and even Nickelodeon, they're letting the creators make the cartoon and fulfilling the animator's vision. Dexter is my joke, and here I am telling it, and if people like it it's because we made it that way. You admit that you love television. Many educated people would think that's sacrilegious. When I came to America and I saw how much different programming there was, it was like candy: there's 'Wonder Woman,' 'Dukes of Hazard.' And I was a 'Three's Company' fanatic. In Russia, there's only the news; here TV's a culture. I just got hooked, and that made me learn English much faster. There are things out there beyond PBS that are smart. You have to give it a chance. If you're snooty, you're snooty. When I grew up, if I had a free moment, I watched TV. And I turned out fine. Thelma Adams",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"YEARNING FOR AN IRON HAND LEAD: There is no mention in the article of the embarrassing fact (embarrasing for Russian nationalists, no doubt) that Russia acquired the lion's share of its Jewish minority through brutal conquests at the expense of Poland in the late 18th century. If these Russian 'patriots' really cared about Mother There is no mention in the article of the embarrassing fact (embarrasing for Russian nationalists, no doubt) that Russia acquired the lion's share of its Jewish minority through brutal conquests at the expense of Poland in the late 18th century. If these Russian 'patriots' really cared about Mother Russia, they would take a critical stand against their beloved czars, who provoked and fought one war after another to expand their frontiers far beyond any defensive purposes and who cruelly subjugated conquered peoples, whose descendants, not surprisingly, were flocking to the revolutionary parties by the beginning of the 20th century. FREDERICK GABRIELSEN Livingston, N.J.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Interview with a Vampirette On Valentine's Day, most lovers share nothing stronger than heart-shaped mints and Champagne. Within the so-called Gothic Death Rock scene, a fringe group known as 'practicing vampires' express their love by drinking each other's blood. Dwelling in the urban U.S., numbering in the hundreds, these vampires often communicate in underground magazines like Blue Blood, published in Atlanta. Some believe that blood-drinking insures immortality, but most admit - wistfully - that vampirism is more of a life style. What's involved? From her velvet-draped apartment in San Francisco, Danielle Willis, a pale, attractive 30-year-old, shared the details. At age 10, overwhelmed by a fear of death, Willis began wishing she were a vampire. After spending her adolescence hoping that a fanged creature would fly through her window, she took matters into her own hands in her early 20's. Now she sleeps by day, works at night (she writes Gothic fiction) and drinks blood. Four years ago, she and her boyfriend sealed their commitment by having a dentist cap their incisors with 'permanent fangs' made of procelain. In practice, though, Willis prefers syringes to draw the 'coppery'-tasting beverage, which she sometimes drinks a cup at a time, gaining a mild psychological rush from the act. 'The human mouth is filthy,' she says. 'Needles provide the minimum mess and the maximum outtake.' She finds blood-drinking far from repulsive - to her it's the ultimate expression of intimacy. 'It's saying that you trust a person enough to take a body fluid that's potentially lethal into your system.' To guard against H.I.V., she limits donors to very close friends who have regular tests. As for the surrounding rituals, which are sometimes vaguely Satanic, Willis keeps it simple. 'I extract the blood and drink it on the spot. Or I'll put it in a little vial and wrap it up in red velvet.' She has a tiny leather-bound journal, filled with Gothic drawings, prose entries and blood droppings. 'Sometimes I'll create little keepsakes from the blood. Or use it later in magic rituals.' She shrugs apologetically. 'It's really not that exciting.' Sunday, February 9, 1997: SUBCULTURES",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"MY PARENTS' BUST-UP, AND MINE In ""My Parents' Bust-Up, and Mine"" (Oct. 8), Walter Kirn uses honesty as a bludgeon. At 14, 19 and 21, my children have never told me how they feel about my recent divorce, after 25 years of an uneasy marriage. I have no idea what they think. I suspect they feel just as Kirn does, often on the edge, coping better some days than others. Just as I do. MICHAEL LITTLER New York",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"THE BODY POLITIC I must respond with bewilderment to Susanna Moore's essay 'The Body Politic' (Style, Oct. 6). What is she saying? That we cannot be interested in the accomplishments of the First Lady but instead look to her to fulfill the 1950's sex-limited role as national paper doll? In answer to the question Moore raises of trust in fashion, I think that Mrs. Clinton presents the image (hang on to your trust-o-meters) of the vibrant, beautiful and unabashedly intelligent woman she obviously is. LAURA DAUPHINE New York",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Makeup Artist I read Dana Tierney's beautiful story of her mother, 'The Makeup Artist,' over and over (Lives, July 26). What a woman, the mother! What a writer, the daughter! Thank you for publishing her article. Mary Jean Tully Armonk, N.Y.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Nicolas Hulot Nicolas Hulot, a longtime star of French television, is the host of 'Ushuaia,' a series focusing on daredevil adventure exploits now being broadcast on CNBC. Q: Your show is ridiculously popular in France. What's the attraction? A: I am an accessible hero -- I am only a 70-kilo person, I am not a movie hero. The French laugh with me; they cry with me; they get scared with me; they share my emotions. Not to just walk on the ground, but to fly, dive and go under the earth, that should be the goal of everybody! Q: You've skied barefoot while being towed by a helicopter and scuba-dived near molten lava as it spills into the ocean. Are you worried that others will get hurt if they attempt similar feats? A: Yes! For years I have been telling people not to do things just for the risk. That is not my way. I always say, 'Spend time to learn.' Don't do things only for vanity, because if you go to the vanity school then you are stupide and you will die. But if you go to the humility school, you will survive. SUNDAY: FEBRUARY 15, 1998: QUESTIONS FOR",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Not Funnies As a librarian for young-adult books at a large public library, I see the impact that graphic novels have on my teenage patrons. They have ignited an interest in reading among kids who may never have thought to pick up a book for the simple pleasure of recreational reading. Graphic fiction and manga are justifiably among the most popular choices of teenagers, and to those who see them as 'merely comics,' may I suggest that they visit their local library and take another look. Sisalee M. Hecht Harrington Park, N.J.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Style; VREELAND'S TOUCHES LEAD: If, as the art historian Mario Praz wrote, 'the surroundings become a museum of the soul,' then a glimpse at Diana Vreeland's Park Avenue apartment is a reflection of the style and personality of one of this century's legendary taste makers. It wasn't a big apartment - life centered on a well-proportioned living room and small dining area - but it exuded bigness. If, as the art historian Mario Praz wrote, 'the surroundings become a museum of the soul,' then a glimpse at Diana Vreeland's Park Avenue apartment is a reflection of the style and personality of one of this century's legendary taste makers. It wasn't a big apartment - life centered on a well-proportioned living room and small dining area - but it exuded bigness. Many of the pieces that made it that way will be auctioned at an estate sale at Sotheby's on April 19. Vreeland, the legendary fashion editor who died last year, was not a timid person about anything, including color. 'I like almost every color,' she wrote in 'D.V.,' her memoir. But red was her favorite. 'It makes all other colors beautiful. I can't imagine becoming bored with red - it would be like becoming bored with the person you love.' When she told her friend and decorator Billy Baldwin that she wanted her living room to 'be a garden, but a garden in hell,' he scoured fabric houses both here and abroad until he found a red Persian chintz at Colefax & Fowler in London. 'It made sense that Mrs. Vreeland loved red,' says Katell le Bourhis, associate curator for special projects at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art and Vreeland's researcher for many years. 'Red is passion, it's fire, it's blood. And she was a deeply passionate person. It was as though she were part Latin. She loved dancing, especially the tango. She loved nights with no end.' Yet her home was almost Victorian in it's careful clutter. Every corner was filled with a quirky collection of objects, souvenirs of Vreeland's life: horn snuffboxes from Scotland, giant seashells, photographs of friends like Marella Agnelli, a pair of Christian Berard portraits of Vreeland, a Dufy watercolor of a Venetian canal, Staffordshire dogs, a myriad of needlepoint pillows, bronze fish and Venetian blackamoors. 'Diana was enormously visual about decoration,' recalls Kenneth Jay Lane, the jewelry designer:. 'She could fiddle with objects for hours until they were just the way she wanted them.' And then nothing changed. The apartment remained the same for more than three decades. 'She wanted it to seem as though hers was a home of leisure - the flowers, pillows, scents, objects - but in fact everything was obsessively organized,' le Bourhis says. Everything was arranged with a place and purpose, right down to the yellow pad, green pen and freshly sharpened pencils, placed as though they were a still life by her telephone. Her Georgian cigarette case was always refilled with the same number of cigarettes and could always be found in the same place. Her stacks of books were always arranged in a specific order. 'In another life, she must have been in the army,' le Bourhis observes. 'It was imperative she had a set frame, something to hold on to so she could let her imagination run free.' Another constant in her home was an array of interesting scents. Candles or incense were always burning. And she adored flowers. According to her longtime friend C. Z. Guest, Vreeland always had an arrangement of whatever flowers happened to be in bloom. 'There were wonderful lilies and hyacinths and poppies and anemones,' Guest says. 'Every season, I'd send her orchids from my greenhouse in Palm Beach.' 'Everything was arranged with great taste,' says Kitty D'Alessio, vice-chairman of Chanel. 'Nothing was overdone and nothing was ever old-fashioned. Diana stepped into the future faster than anyone I knew.' While at first glance her apartment gave the appearance of great luxury, there was little of real value. It was, in fact, filled with an assortment of curios of special significance only to their owner. Unlike today, when taste is too often associated with money, Vreeland can be seen as a classic example of true style. 'Lack of funds can work to one's advantage,' Lane points out. 'Diana could make do on her great imagination.' The fashion designer Bill Blass remembers that Vreeland's apartment had 'a great stamp of her personality because she had so much confidence.' As a result, her home became a place where interesting people loved to gather. 'Going there to dinner was an event - you never knew who you would see,' says Blass. 'All the famous people of the 50's, 60's and 70's passed through her doors, from Greta Garbo and Cecil Beaton to Mick Jagger and Andy Warhol,' adds Guest. 'Everyone in New York wanted an invitation. Her style of entertaining was always simple. Whether she was serving a banquet or a hot dog, it would always be terrific. There was an air of sophistication about everything. For example, she always served coffee in black demitasse cups. I'd never seen black demitasse cups before.' Many liken her home to Coco Chanel's in its strength and unique character. 'It was really Diana's own stage set,' says D'Alessio. 'After she died, I went back. The lights had gone out. Something was missing.'",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"RAGE IN A TENURED POSITION I enjoyed your article, but was a bit perplexed by the final paragraph that describes Heilbrun as mysteriously alone in her study, ""not entirely willingly."" It adds a tone of sadness and defeat to what I read as a strong and sensible next step for a successful female scholar in Heilbrun's not-at-all-mysterious position at Columbia: Leave! With lots of publicity about the reason. SUSAN SCHAEFER DAVIS Haverford, Pa.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"IS HUMANITY SUICIDAL? Edward O. Wilson argues that we must save other species, not for their own sake, but so ""they can be understood and employed in the fullest sense for human benefit"" (""Is Humanity Suicidal?"" May 30). What is needed, instead, is to see human beings merely as one part of the whole earth system and probably as that part whose job is to bring about healing, where previously we have caused destruction and degradation. ELEANOR RAE Ridgefield, Conn.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"AMONG THE BELIEVERS Rosenbaum did an excellent job of explaining the many dimensions of the Elvis phenomenon, but erred when he referred to the Penitentes as a ""sect of American Indian converts to Christianity."" The Penitentes were Spanish-speaking members of a brotherhood who were recruited into the New Mexico wilderness in the belief that discipline and hardship would enhance their potential as pioneers. The Penitentes were not American Indians. JOHN R. THOMAS State College, Pa.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Designs for the Next Millennium; Antenna design Reflecting both Eastern and Western traditions, the entry proposed by this design firm transcends the rational. It turns to the ancient Japanese idea of a 'dream pillow' to explore the mysteries of cultural receptivity. In an era that is increasingly driven by the exchange of information, much depends on the ability to distinguish meaning from noise. The designers propose carving a chaise longue, with pillow, from a granite outcropping in Central Park. HD-Rosetta disks, safely microengraved with data, would be buried inside. The mystical premise is that when people in the future rest their heads on the stone pillow, they will absorb the wisdom of the ages. If, perchance, extrasensory perception should fail, rationality, in the form of the disks, would still be available. Herbert Muschamp is the architecture critic of The New York Times.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Big Girls Don't Cry More than half the women in America wear at least a size 12 dress. Guess how many want to look like a street urchin? Enough with the waif. Too many grown-ups with full breasts, ample hips, large shoulders and baggage-free self-images are tired of the implication that the only way they could be in fashion is wrapped in the shroud of Turin. Less is not necessarily more, though in truth, more should usually wear less. Beaded epaulets, dropped waists and garish prints are not the way to a lovelier silhouette in any size. Large women are flattered by the unemcumbered lines, monochromatic layers, easy fit and minimal jewelry currently in style. In fact, no matter what the arbiters say there are clothes out there for you. In these lean times, fashion could profit from a little largess. FASHION",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"PICKY, PICKY, PICKY John Tierney's essay ""Picky, Picky, Picky"" (The Big City, Feb. 12) was droll and perceptive, but fell short of explaining why we develop the phenomenon that he calls the ""Flaw-O-Matic."" I believe it is because by rejecting someone quickly we avoid the possibility of being rejected ourselves. JOSEPH BULGATZ New York",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"THE JOYS OF VICTIMHOOD LEAD: I found Joseph Epstein's article a little disappointing. Lots of mental-health research has showed that the mistreatment of children leads to lasting emotional damage, including feelings of worthlessness, helplessness and anger - i.e., the perception of oneself as a victim, even decades after the abuse has stopped. I found Joseph Epstein's article a little disappointing. Lots of mental-health research has showed that the mistreatment of children leads to lasting emotional damage, including feelings of worthlessness, helplessness and anger - i.e., the perception of oneself as a victim, even decades after the abuse has stopped. Mr. Epstein's article would have been a more thoughtful one if, besides writing about his (and many other people's) impatience with those who perceive themselves as victims, he had also considered the origins of their distorted self-perceptions. ELIZABETH MORGAN, M.D. Washington",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Pictures; The Face The movies feed us all kinds of dreams and illusions, but the most democratic, and also the cruelest, may be the fantasy that those vivid projected shadows we see on the screen are people just like us. There are, of course, movie stars whose charisma amounts to a kind of distilled ordinariness -- the nice guy, the girl next door, Jimmy Stewart, Meg Ryan, Kevin Costner, Doris Day. But there is another, rarer breed whose beauty is almost too unearthly to be sexual, and who we could never in our wildest dreams hope to be. This distinction, obvious to any moviegoer, arises from a number of ineffabilities having to do with talent and technique. But mostly it's a matter of cheekbones. Cinema, with its bright lights and character-establishing close-ups, infuses the ridges and declivities of the human face with expressive power. Good bone structure confers a kind of immortality, as well as offering some immunity to the depredations of time, especially for women. Men grow thick and jowly, but even in their old age, stars like Gloria Swanson, Katharine Hepburn and Jeanne Moreau have managed to defy gravity. The black-and-white era was the golden age of the cheekbone. The glories of Greta Garbo in close-up, those evocative shadows and hollows, will never be matched in Technicolor or digital video. The recent past offers Audrey Hepburn and Faye Dunaway, but ambitious screen actors tend nowadays to submerge their natural glow in the grit of naturalism. Today's stars are unquestionably good-looking, and have much better muscle definition than their predecessors, but fewer of them, especially male stars, have faces with the power to haunt. Whatever else might be said about it, Lasse Hallstrom's new film, 'Chocolat,' brings together two contemporary icons of sorrowful, hollow-cheeked luminosity -- Johnny Depp and Juliette Binoche. Depp, a gifted realist, has sometimes been betrayed by his good looks. In 'Donnie Brasco,' his performance as an undercover F.B.I. agent infiltrating the New York mafia stretched credibility, not because of flaws in his acting, which was characteristically meticulous, but because of the flawlessness of his face. In Julian Schnabel's new film, 'Before Night Falls,' Depp has a double cameo as a jailhouse drag queen and a sadistic prison guard, but even behind heavy eye shadow or a militaristic mustache, his essential Deppness shines through. Juliette Binoche first came to the attention of American audiences in 'The Unbearable Lightness of Being.' Sharing the screen with Daniel Day-Lewis and Lena Olin, she looked downright moon-faced in comparison, but by 'The English Patient' a decade later, she held her own in an impressively concave cast that included Ralph Fiennes, Kristin Scott Thomas and Willem Dafoe. Whether she and Depp can find the emotional chemistry to carry this picture remains to be seen, but their matching dark eyes and melancholy airs suggests it will be hard to look away. And a glance at young Victoire Thivisol, who plays Binoche's daughter, suggests that, once her baby fat melts away, a new golden age of the cheekbone may yet be before us. -- A.O. SCOTT",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Way We Live Now: 8-20-00: On Language; Iron Fist 'They wanted this iron fist to command them.' That was the statement of Arthur Wellesley, the Duke of Wellington, about the need for discipline among the English troops sent to the Canadian frontier in the 1812 war with the United States. The victor over Napoleon at Waterloo became known as 'the Iron Duke.' Iron is hard. An iron hand is rule that is rigid, stubborn, severe, even cruel; iron-fisted has an additional connotation of 'parsimonious, close-fisted, niggardly.' Thus it was surprising to read in several articles that an iron fist was in control of the Republican convention in Philadelphia early this month. The attribution, though not in direct quotation of a full sentence, was to George W. Bush himself in the week before he became his party's nominee. In The New York Times, the prescient R.W. Apple Jr. wrote, 'If there are abortion rights supporters at the podium this week, for example, they will talk about something else, thanks to what Mr. Bush calls his 'iron fist' control of the proceedings.' That's a curious phrase from a candidate who popularized the marriage of the adjective compassionate with the noun conservative. The decidedly noncompassionate phrase iron fist has not even the smooth qualifier that Thomas Carlyle reported in 1850 was used by the Iron Duke's defeated rival: 'Soft of speech and manner, yet with an inflexible rigour of command . . . iron hand in a velvet glove,' as Napoleon defined it.' Strange that Bush should adopt that phrase; perhaps it was a slip under stress. Political figures from Austin are sensitive to the political meanings of words. For example, Karl Rove (invariably described as 'Bush's chief strategist'; there is apparently nobody with the title 'deputy strategist') demonstrated a grasp of nuance in an interview on The New York Times/ABC News Webcast at the G.O.P. convention. His questioner had asked about the gap between the convention's 'moderate, inclusive message' of those chosen to speak and the notably conservative views of the delegates shown in polls. 'Let me correct,' Rove responded quickly. 'You said 'inclusive and moderate.' What we're saying is, it's 'inclusive and compassionately conservative.'' What was the chief strategist's chief strategy, while accepting the adjective inclusive, in going out of his way to reject the nearly synonymous adjective moderate? Because that word, when used as a noun, causes political reverberations. From a conservative's point of view, a moderate is the liberal's way of avoiding the pejorative tag of liberal. From a liberal's point of view, moderate is not only self-applicable but also a friendly way of describing a Republican who is not a hard-core, reactionary, troglodyte kook. The word's political sense was born in the Eisenhower administration. Minutes of the Nov. 4, 1954, cabinet meeting reported the president using the phrase 'a policy of moderation.' Adlai Stevenson, a year later, told a fund-raising audience: 'Moderation, yes! Stagnation, no!' At the same dinner, Averell Harriman, a potential opponent for the 1956 Democratic nomination, disagreed: 'There is no such word as moderation in the Democratic vocabulary.' The conservative columnist William F. Buckley at that time wrote, 'I resist moderate because it is a base-stealing word for the benefit of G.O.P. liberals.' The Nelson Rockefeller wing of the party at first accepted it in the early 60's, but then supporters of Barry Goldwater used it in derision, to catch the centrist minority off the Republican political base. On July 14, 1963, Rockefeller denounced Goldwater 'extremists' for a philosophy 'wholly alien to the broad middle course that accommodates the mainstream of Republican principle.' I recall dragging a large banner across the San Francisco Cow Palace floor at the 1964 convention that read 'Stay in the Mainstream!' But as Francis Bacon pointed out in 'On Faction,' written in 1597, 'a few who are stiff do tire out a great number that are more moderate.' The Goldwaterite true believers scorned the electoral mainstream and lost in a landslide; four years later, Nixon steered toward it and narrowly won. In 1968, Nixon and his writers shied from the noun moderate, still inflammatory to 'real' Republicans, but embraced its euphemism mainstream. President Gerald Ford, after his 1976 defeat, called a meeting of the Republicans Ronald Reagan, John Connally and Nelson Rockefeller and used an older metaphor: 'The Republican tent is big enough to encompass the four individuals who are here today.' As the big tent was replaced by mainstream, both were supplanted by 'the politics of inclusion' in the 1980's. That's why the iron-fisted Bush chief strategist Karl Rove accepted inclusive and rejected moderate. Gen. Colin Powell followed up with a convention speech hailing George W. Bush's 'passion for inclusion.' In his acceptance speech to the G.O.P. convention in Philadelphia, Governor Bush repeated compassionate conservatism, defining it in a plain sentence: 'It is to put conservative values and conservative ideas into the thick of the fight for justice and opportunity.' Where and when did the phrase (akin to Jack Kemp's bleeding-heart conservative) originate? In his recent book, 'Compassionate Conservatism,' Marvin Olasky, professor of journalism at the University of Texas at Austin (and the Bush adviser who suggested the phrase to the Bush campaign), provides a lead. Olasky suggests coinage by Vernon Jordan, then head of the National Urban League, who said on July 22, 1981, in criticism of the Reagan administration, 'I do challenge its failure to exhibit a compassionate conservatism.' However, four months earlier -- on March 13, 1981 -- in an article by Judith Miller of The New York Times, Senator Orrin Hatch, Republican of Utah, said: 'I'm a conservative, and proud of it, but I'm a compassionate conservative. I'm not some kind of ultra-right-wing maniac, despite some portrayals in the press.' That remains the current political sense of the phrase.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"On Language; With a Euro in Her Pouch... No matter what the bankers tell you at the Frankfurt headquarters of the European Monetary Union, the euro is already in circulation. Aboriginal Australians have long been familiar with the Westralian rock kangaroo, which they call the uroo, waroo or yuro. English-speaking residents of that continent spell it euro: 'Wallaby, euro and dingo tracks,' wrote I. L. Idriess in a 1933 novel, 'showed how popular this cool rock-hole was.' Those creatures, with their powerful hindquarters and front-loaded method of carrying offspring in pouches, will have to share their name with the European supercurrency in a few years. Residents of 11 countries will soon be disdaining francs, marks, guilders, escudos and pesetas, instead insisting their common currency is as 'sound as a euro.' The Germans wanted to call it the euromark. The mark was the name of a German, English and Scottish weight traceable to the year 886; in 1946, the Deutsche mark replaced the Reichsmark and became the symbol of German financial stability. But the French preferred the ecu, acronym for the European Currency Unit (and an old silver French coin, similar to the English crown). Germans thought ecu sounded too much like Kuh, German for 'cow,' likely to lead to such wordplay as 'cash cow' and 'curdling the currency.' Bonn countered with the franken -- a Germanization of the French franc -- but that struck many as too close to Mary Shelley's Dr. Frankenstein, not to mention his monster. The monnet had its moment, honoring Jean Monnet, the European unionist, but that suggestion sounded too much like the English money, and the Brits were not even embracing the new currency. 'The Germans insist on euro,' wrote Nathaniel C. Nash of The New York Times from Brussels in November 1995, a name their Finance Minister, Theo Waigel, 'floated in September when the finance ministers last met.' And so the coinage was coined. MILLENNIUM BUG When a batter fans, baseball scorers put down the symbol K, probably from the distinctive letter in strike. Creators of G.O.P. bumper stickers in 1952 sought to encapsulate three issues against the Democrats: Korea (an unended war), Communism (soft on) and Corruption (the 'mess in Washington'). They came up with K1C2. (The notion of a quasi-chemical symbol as bumper sticker was used again in 1964 to denote the name of Goldwater: AuH2O.) In the years since, K -- from kilo, Greek for chillioi, thousand,' or 10 to the third power -- has most often come to mean kilobyte, strings of binary digits expressed by 2 to the 10th power, or 1,024. My son the E-commercialist says that if my computer doesn't boast a memory of 48 megabytes -- that's 49,152 kilobytes -- I should forget about it. O.K. (coined in 1839): here comes Y2K (coined in 1995). 'I plead guilty to journalistic incompetence,' writes the unduly self-flagellating financial columnist Robert J. Samuelson, 'for ignoring what may be one of the decade's big stories: the Year 2000 problem. Among technical types it is shortened to the Y2K problem.' As we content providers are aware, the world as we know it is coming to an end at midnight on Dec. 31, 1999. At that moment, the Times Square ball drops; couples embrace; killjoy mathematicians insisting the new millennium does not begin for another year are drowned out in the clack of celebrants' noisemakers; the ghost of Guy Lombardo reappears to play 'Auld Lang Syne' (which drunken etymologists explain is Scottish for 'Old Long Since'); computers that have not been properly rejiggered assume with perfect binary logic that the Gay Nineties are over and that we're going into the year 1900 and that Diamond Jim Brady is canceling our credit cards. What a moment! This column understands its scope: at the moment of earthly doom, for example, its subject will be the origin of doomsayer and the pronunciation of Armageddon. Therefore, I will leave the nerdy technical reasons for the breakdown of expiration dates to chat-room eschatologists. (It has to do with space-hungry programmers in the 1960's leaving the first two digits off the year, so that 1965 was written as 65, and now the computer can't find the 19 to turn it to 20.) We deal here only with the linguistic roots of Y2K. On Feb. 26, 1995, James Coates wrote in The Chicago Tribune about what was being called the Year 2000 Holocaust and the millennium bug: 'Once the code that was compiled with the millennium bug written into it is decompiled, it must be fixed to allow four digits rather than two in what is called the date field.' On Feb. 28, 1996, a Y2K bulletin board appeared on the Internet. Its existence was noted in the world of Old Establishment Media by The Wall Street Journal on July 26, 1996. Peter de Jager, co-author with Richard Burgeon of Managing 00,' helped popularize the term among the netties, as did Dan Rather of the broadcast network netties. They accepted the old-fashioned symbol of K as kilo, 1,000, not as 2 to the 10th power, or 1,024. If you don't cotton to Y2K, and don't have the space for the year 2000, there's always the Roman numeral MM. A candy company that produces M&M's (named after Forrest Mars and Bruce Murrie) has seized on this idea to appoint itself 'the official candy of the New Millennium.' If you don't want your fingers sticky with chocolate as the electronic balloon falls, grab a handful of those millennium bugs.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Wiring the Vast Left-Wing Conspiracy Bai correctly captures the archaic infrastructure of the Democratic Party; however, he neglects to identify themes that can inspire voters. Until Democrats adopt policies that empower choices available to citizens and accelerate their upward mobility, voters will side with Republicans. David Stoesz Alexandria, Va",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Nuclear Nightmares Thank you for balancing 'Nuclear Nightmares' with the centerfold of United States World Cup hotties ('The Boys of Soccer'). In a post-9/11 world where 'duck and cover' doesn't cut it, it's important to remember that there are life-affirming ways to achieve meltdown. Stacia Friedman Philadelphia",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Age of The Mediathon Your article made me realize how the media circus has dominated my life. In 1949, when television was new, I remember Kathy Fiscus, a little girl who was stuck in a well. Her story was covered around the clock. I could never resist human drama. I think these stories serve as our Greek tragedies in a way. Barbara Sheinkopf Pasadena, Calif.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"JACK KEMP FACES REALITY LEAD: There was a touch of sad irony in your article. As one read about Jack Kemp's efforts to deal with the startling increase in homelessness and the nation's drastic shortage of housing, the eye could not help but wander to the facing page and there linger over the listings of magnificent mansions and huge apartments (one of 11 pages of luxury homes and estates). There was a touch of sad irony in your article. As one read about Jack Kemp's efforts to deal with the startling increase in homelessness and the nation's drastic shortage of housing, the eye could not help but wander to the facing page and there linger over the listings of magnificent mansions and huge apartments (one of 11 pages of luxury homes and estates). No one (and certainly not Jack Kemp) is saying that the logical solution is to put the homeless into all those empty penthouses - there truly is no free lunch. But the juxtaposition (doubtless unintended) of that story and those glamorous ads once again illuminates the growing gap between the haves and the have-nothings in our society. TONY SAVAGE Bronx",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Courage of His Confections If it's proof you need that restaurants are important, consider the elaborate and erudite cooking of Charlie Trotter, the 35-year-old chef and owner of Charlie Trotter's restaurant in Chicago. Who but the master of his domain, laboring with a staff of 17 in a spotless, state-of-the-art kitchen, would dare to saute a single duck liver, balance it on a tower of wilted mustard greens and drizzle it with a teaspoon of beet juice? I know of no other chef like Charlie Trotter. The complexity of his recipes pushes the outer limits of culinary sanity. But more often than not, they are ingenious and, as witnessed in the lavish book ""Charlie Trotter's,"" published last year by Ten Speed Press, invariably beautiful. A native of Chicago's North Shore, Trotter majored in political science at the University of Wisconsin before kitchen stints in Chicago, San Francisco and Florida, and extensive eating in Europe. Along the way, he began catering elaborate dinner parties, the perfect forum in which to hone his culinary philosophy. Trotter believes in serving a succession of small, ornate dishes (constructions really), each no more than a taste, one more complex than the next. He'll stuff rabbit rillette, for example, into tiny columns of phyllo dough. Then he'll fry them, cut them like Vietnamese spring rolls and mount them like tiny rock pilings in a sea of oranges, black olives and reduced rabbit broth. His ""lasagna"" of braised turnips and rabbit is built like a shingled pagoda, floating on a sauce of sweet peas. While Trotter's technique is indisputably French, butter and cream are not necessarily the cornerstones of his cooking. When Trotter layers scallops with pickled lamb's tongue, it's the truffled celery broth, not butter, that holds the dish together. Similarly, it's the simple tomato water in a dish of salmon, truffled artichokes and seared foie gras that mitigates all the richness. It stands to reason that a squab salad with white truffle oil, pigs' feet, foie gras and 50-year-old balsamic vinegar is not exactly budget cooking. And don't expect his truffled lamb tartar with chanterelles and watercress oil to be a meal-in-a-minute. But for those cooks who yearn to straddle the line between cooking and fine art, Trotter's food is an inspiring blueprint. The following recipes are some of Trotter's simpler ones adapted for home use. Each yields a portion the size of an appetizer and should therefore be increased if the cook wants to reap a meal from all the effort involved. While poached salmon on lobster potatoes is a delicious dish, we suggest buying a duck-and-veal demi-glace from the source listed below rather than spend 12 hours making the 1/2 cup of veal glace that is called for. As a fellow Midwesterner, I find it difficult not to applaud Trotter's patience and dedication to finesse. Also, as a fellow Midwesterner, I'm happy it's Trotter who's doing the cooking. Caramelized Salsify, Spatzle and Roasted Vegetable Broth The broth: 3 medium onions 2 carrots 1 rutabaga 2 parsnips 1 fennel bulb 2 tablespoons canola oil 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt Freshly ground pepper to taste 3 sprigs fresh thyme The salsify: 4 stalks salsify, peeled and halved crosswise 1 quart milk 1 tablespoon unsalted butter Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste The spatzle: 1/2 cup milk 3 eggs, lightly beaten 2 tablespoons coarse Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons flour 2 teaspoons unsalted butter. 1. For broth, preheat oven to 450 degrees. Peel and dice vegetables and place in a large roasting pan or 2 pans to avoid overcrowding. Toss with the oil. Roast until browned, stirring occasionally, about 45 minutes. Transfer to a large pot and add 4 cups of water. Place over medium heat and simmer until broth is reduced to 2 cups, about 30 minutes. Strain and stir in 1/2 teaspoon of salt, pepper and thyme. Set aside. 2. Place salsify and milk in a large pot over medium heat. Simmer until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water. Cut in half lengthwise and then across into 2-inch pieces. Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the salsify and cook until it turns light brown, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. 3. For spatzle, whisk together the milk, eggs, mustard, salt and pepper. Add flour and stir until smooth. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Place a one-sided grater with large holes over the pot and press the spatzle mixture through the holes, letting it drop into the pot. Cook until spatzle rises to the top, about 1 to 2 minutes. Drain. 4. To serve, reheat broth and salsify. Melt 2 teaspoons of butter in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add spatzle and toss until heated through. Divide salsify among 4 bowls and top with spatzle. Remove thyme from broth and ladle into the bowls. Serve immediately. Yield: Four servings. Quail With Grits, Apple and Celery Root The quail: 4 quails 1/4 cup plus 5 teaspoons olive oil 8 sprigs fresh thyme 1 small onion, peeled and diced 1 rib celery, diced 1 carrot, peeled and diced 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste Freshly ground pepper to taste The grits: 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced 1/2 cup instant grits 1/2 cup diced celery root 1 small apple, peeled, cored and diced small 1 teaspoon kosher salt Freshly ground pepper to taste. 1. Remove breasts from quails and place in a bowl with 1/4 cup oil and thyme. Chill for several hours. Separate legs and wings from carcasses. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add legs, wings and carcasses and brown, about 5 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon oil and onion, celery and carrot and saute until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in 2 cups water and bring to a boil. Skim, reduce heat and simmer until reduced to 1 cup, about 20 minutes. Strain, discard solids and stir in 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper. Set aside. 2. For grits, melt butter in a medium saucepan over low heat. Add shallot and garlic and cook until soft, about 3 minutes. Add 1 1/4 cups water and bring to a boil. Stir in grits, lower heat and cook, stirring often, until thick, about 5 minutes. Set aside. 3. Heat 2 teaspoons of oil in a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add quail breasts skin side down and saute until golden brown and slightly pink in the center, about 1 minute per side. Remove from skillet, season with salt and pepper and keep warm. Add celery root and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the apple and cook for 1 minute. Stir in grits, 1/2 cup quail broth, 1 teaspoon of salt and pepper. 4. Divide grits among 4 plates. Top with breasts and drizzle with broth. Serve immediately. Yield: Four servings. Poached Salmon With Lobster Potatoes And Veal Glace 1/2 cup plus 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 head garlic, halved 1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 fennel bulb, coarsely chopped 1 leek, coarsely chopped 1 orange, coarsely chopped 1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and coarsely chopped 2 cups chardonnay 4 bay leaves Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1large Idaho potato, unpeeled 2 tablespoons creme fraiche or heavy cream 2/3 cup cooked, chopped lobster meat 2 tablespoons cooked diced bacon 2 teaspoons chopped Italian parsley 4 3-ounce skinless salmon fillets 1/2 cup veal glace or duck-and-veal demi-glace (see note) 2 teaspoons finely julienned tarragon. 1. Melt 1/2 cup of butter in a large pot over medium-low heat. Add garlic, onion, fennel, leek, orange and bell pepper and sweat until soft. Add wine, 3 cups of water and bay leaves and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain, discard the solids and season with salt and pepper. Set aside. 2. Boil the potato until soft and pass through a food mill. While still hot, whisk in 6 tablespoons of butter, bit by bit, allowing each to melt before adding the next. Whisk in the creme fraiche, then fold in the lobster, bacon and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm in a double boiler, for no more than 15 minutes. 3. Heat the broth to a simmer in a pan that will allow the salmon to be completely submerged. Poach until medium rare, about 3 minutes, turning once. Remove from broth and season lightly with salt and pepper. Heat the veal glace. 4. Place a large dollop of lobster potatoes in the center of each plate and top with salmon. Drizzle glace around potatoes and garnish salmon with tarragon. Serve immediately. Yield: Four servings. Note: Duck-and-veal demi-glace is available through mail order by calling (800)-DARTAGNAN. Roasted Tomatoes Stuffed With Couscous, Chanterelles And Pine Nuts 9 small ripe tomatoes 2 tablespoons olive oil 8 garlic cloves 8 sprigs thyme 8 sprigs tarragon, plus 1 teaspoon minced 8 bay leaves 8 basil leaves 1 cup cooked couscous 8 chanterelle mushrooms, quartered and sauteed 1 tablespoon toasted pine nuts 1 tablespoon peeled and finely diced cucumber 1 tablespoon corn kernels, sauteed 1 teaspoon chopped chives, plus 16 whole chives 1 teaspoon chopped mint. 1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Peel tomatoes. Mince one tomato and set aside. Cut a 3/4-inch slice from the bottom of the others, reserving these pieces to serve as lids. Scoop out seeds and center flesh. Rub the insides with 1 tablespoon of olive oil; place a garlic clove, a sprig of thyme, a sprig of tarragon, a bay leaf and a basil leaf into each. Put the lids on and bake until they begin to soften, but still maintain their shape, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from oven and discard garlic and herbs. 2. In a double boiler, warm the couscous. Add the minced tomato, chanterelles, pine nuts, cucumber and corn and stir. Add 1 tablespoon of oil, the chopped chives, the minced tarragon and mint and stir. Spoon into the tomatoes, reheat in the oven and serve two to a plate garnished with whole chives. Yield: Four servings.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Lives They Lived: 01-07-01: Barbara Cartland, b. 1901; She Spoke Volumes Barbara Cartland was a romance novelist. She was the undisputed queen of the genre, the regent before whom all other pretenders must bow. In her 98 years on earth, Dame Barbara produced more than 700 romance novels. She wrote about only one topic: love. For instance, 'The Cave of Love,' 'The Devil in Love,' 'Love Is Innocent,' 'Love Is Dangerous,' 'Love Is a Maze' and even 'Love Is Contraband.' I spent 1981 borrowing about a dozen Cartland novels a week from the local library. For me, her stories were a lifeline toward the impossible, the world as an enchanting adventure, despite my grim personal reality. (Namely, that I was in the sixth grade. Enough said.) She promised that the course of true love cannot be quelled by the forces of familial disapproval, societal prejudice, age difference or frank reality. If your love is destined, Dame Barbara decreed, then you shall find him. And she wasn't stingy with the adverbs either. As she wrote in 'Fire in the Blood,' 'All she knew was that she was close against him and he was kissing her wildly, passionately, demandingly and the world stood still.' Virginal girls were always swept off their feet by surprisingly muscular men in uniform, and there was no sex until marriage, and then it was 'all very wonderful and the moon beams.' She churned out these novels at a feverish pace. She sold close to one billion volumes in her life. She never touched a typewriter but dictated the books to her secretaries, to the tune of 7,000 words a day. While she 'wrote,' she cuddled up with her Pekingese and her hot-water bottle. You could say that Dame Barbara wore cashmere blinders to the world. She passed her 98 years as much like a character in her novels as she could manage, dressing in pink and being chauffeured about in a white Rolls-Royce and falling in love with dukes. She did not concern herself with the unpleasantries of her century, like feminism (she felt it was 'bad manners' to cook breakfast for one's husband without wearing lipstick and a nice dress) or war (once suggesting that English tourists not cause a rude fuss in Germany by 'making loud asides about the Nazi regime'). She lived a long life, even outlasting her tragic step-granddaughter Diana, Princess of Wales. Sure, she got daffier as she aged. She once claimed to have known Winston Churchill back when he was a little boy, which would have been in the 1870's, but whatever -- the point was, she felt that she had known a better time, when 'if a man always said good morning and hello and what have you, people would say when he died that he was a great gentleman.' Barbara Cartland's talent was not as a writer, heaven knows, but as a sincere advocate of those feathery ideals that most of us abandon in our youth. She managed to live through the ugliest century of world history as though she were an eternal 11-year-old girl, still convinced that virtue reigns supreme and that beauty is its own reward and that, in the end, love will always turn sorrow to happiness. Despite any cold evidence to the contrary, she believed all this. She believed it stubbornly. Elizabeth Gilbert is the author of 'Stern Men,' a novel, and a writer at large for GQ.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Recycled Generation Michael D. West may be forgiven for his efforts to portray cell-replacement therapies as a new fountain of youth. After all, as the man who heads Advanced Cell Technology, he has a business to promote. But Stephen S. Hall (Jan. 30) did a disservice in presenting human stem-cell research primarily in these terms. It is unfortunate that as this debate begins, your article distracts us from the real issues by representing stem-cell research as a quest for immortality. Ronald M. Green Eunice and Julian Cohen Professor for the Study of Ethics and Human Values Dartmouth College Hanover, N.H.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"After Life Thank you, Joan Didion, for opening your heart so publicly. Ultimately, the goal of living with grief is not to put it behind us but to integrate it into the layers of a life long lived together. The healing is in the recollection of the details you note: the memory of a drive home from a friend's, the breath-catching question of 'could we have a different ending on Pacific time?' Joan Axelrod Montclair, N.J.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"No Heavy Lifting LEAD: 'SAY IT AIN'T SO, JOE,' moaned the dismayed supporters of Senator Joseph R. Biden Jr., the Democratic Presidential hopeful, in tones echoic of the fans of baseball's Shoeless Joe Jackson when it was discovered that their idol had faithlessly sold out to the gamblers in the 1919 World Series. 'SAY IT AIN'T SO, JOE,' moaned the dismayed supporters of Senator Joseph R. Biden Jr., the Democratic Presidential hopeful, in tones echoic of the fans of baseball's Shoeless Joe Jackson when it was discovered that their idol had faithlessly sold out to the gamblers in the 1919 World Series. The cause of the Biden followers' dismay was what members of the Judson Welliver Society, the organization of former White House speechwriters, call 'heavy lifting': borrowing at length and without attribution the rhythms, thought patterns and sometimes the words of another orator. 'Why is it that Joe Biden is the first in his family ever to go to a university?' asked the candidate in a rousing finale to a debate at the Iowa State Fair. 'Is it because our fathers and mothers were not bright? . . . Is it because they didn't work hard, my ancestors who worked in the coal mines of Northeast Pennsylvania and would come up after 12 hours and play football for 4 hours?' These rhe-torical questions were an-swered with a ringing 'It's because they didn't have a platform upon which to stand.' That was a killer-diller of a peroration, warming egalitarian hearts, until Maureen Dowd, a reporter for The New York Times, printed excerpts from a speech by Neil Kinnock, leader of Britain's Labor Party, made several months before: 'Why am I the first Kinnock in a thousand generations to be able to get to university? . . . Was it because all our predecessors were thick? Was it because they were weak? Those people who could work eight hours underground and then come up and play football? Weak? . . . It was because there was no platform upon which they could stand.' As an old hand at the speechwriting dodge, and a longtime specialist in its Thrilling Peroration Division, my first reaction was to wince at the formalistic upon which construction. Although it enabled the speaker to conclude with the strong word stand, the ostentatiously careful grammar conflicts with the common-man point; a more forceful conclusion would be 'no platform to stand on,' with spoken emphasis on stand. Focused on this particular tree, however, I missed the forest of moral outrage that sprang up to deride the heavy lifter. 'I'm going back to Gary Hart,' said one embittered Democrat. 'At least he didn't steal that girl from some far-lefty in England.' Maybe my familiarity with rhetorical borrowing has left me insensitive to the shock of recognition. I remember listening to John F. Kennedy's inaugural, with its stirring line 'In your hands, my fellow citizens, more than mine, will rest the final success or failure of our course.' I had to admire the way writer Ted Sorensen evoked the rhythm of the line in the Lincoln first inaugural: 'In your hands, my dissatisfied fellow-countrymen, and not in mine, is the momentous issue of civil war.' (Kennedy subtly corrected Lincoln's redundancy of fellow-countrymen; that was especially astute.) What's wrong with such evocation? Winston Churchill, writing his ringing 1940 speech about defending his island by fighting on the beaches, in the streets, etc., recalled Georges Clemenceau's defiance in 1918: 'I shall fight in front of Paris, within Paris, behind Paris.' (Clemenceau, in turn, was paraphrasing Marshal Ferdinand Foch on Amiens.) That sort of boosting - a less pejorative term than lifting and certainly far from plagiarizing, rooted in the Latin for 'kidnapping' - is done all the time. Time for confession. I always admired Franklin D. Roosevelt's use of the repeated I see construction, begun in his 1937 'I see one third of a nation ill-housed, ill-clad, ill-nourished. . . .' Working with writers Samuel I. Rosenman and Robert E. Sherwood in 1940, F.D.R. collaborated on a speech that used I see to frame an inspiring vision: 'I see an America where factory workers are not discarded after they reach their prime. . . . I see an America whose rivers and valleys and lakes . . . are protected as the rightful heritage of all the people. . . . I see an America devoted to our freedom. . . .' Working as a speechwriter for Richard Nixon in 1968, I thought: Why not lift it? Adlai Stevenson had already adapted the pattern to a series of paragraphs that began with I look forward to, which President Kennedy had lifted in 1963: 'I look forward to a great future for America, a future in which our country will match its military strength with our moral restraint. . . . I look forward to an America which will not be afraid of grace and beauty. . . . And I look forward to a world which will be safe not only for democracy and diversity but also for personal distinction.' Always a slam-bang format for a peroration. So Richard Nixon told the Republican convention: 'I see a day when Americans are once again proud of their flag. . . . I see a day when the President of the United States is respected and his office is honored because it is worthy of respect and worthy of honor. . . . I see a day when our nation is at peace and the world is at peace and everyone on earth - those who hope, those who aspire, those who crave liberty - will look to America as the shining example of hopes realized and dreams achieved.' After that speech, I felt a little pang of guilt - some spark of conscience had not been totally extinguished in the peroration dodge - and I called Judge Rosenman to fess up to using the I see construction he and Bobby Sherwood had written for Roosevelt. 'Check Robert Ingersoll about 10 years after the Civil War,' replied the man F.D.R. called 'Sammy the Rose.' With the help of the Library of Congress, I tracked down the speeches of the orator who coined the sobriquet 'The Plumed Knight' in the rousing nominating speech for candidate James Blaine. There was the source of F.D.R.'s I see's in an Ingersoll speech in 1876: 'I see our country filled with happy homes. . . . I see a world where thrones have crumbled. . . . I see a world where labor reaps its full reward. . . . I see a world without the beggar's outstretched palm . . . and, as I look, life lengthens, joy deepens, love canopies the earth; and over all, in the great dome, shines the eternal star of human hope.' That is the sort of ending to a speech that Demosthenes would have considered a grabber. I never credited Sam Rosenman, and Rosenman never credited the guy who wrote it for Ingersoll; why should the Biden speechwriter give a public pat on the back to the hack who pounds away for Kinnock? The answer is that times have changed; you can't get away with borrowing anything these days - not even an oratorical technique, much less a phrase or paragraph - unless you are willing to give the attribution. So my advice to candidates like Joe Biden is this: Do justly, love perorations and walk humbly with thy speechwriter. (I forget where I got that, but it has a nice ring to it.) ON LANGUAGE",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Fit to Print I disagree with the Ethicist's advice (July 10) to a printer that she had no obligation to provide editorial assistance to a customer whose copy was near-illiterate (and whose message she disagreed with). I worked as a printer in my youth and was taught that 'that's what the copy said' was never an excuse for letting errors go out the door. After all, we were proud of our traditions, skills and history. Think Ben Franklin, not Kinko's. William Tudor Wilmington, Del.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"What Your Clothes Make of You Fashion trends are about one thing: a collective yearning. A Calvin Klein senses the frustration of clutter in our lives and gives us minimalism. A Tom Ford feels our repressed sexuality and gives us raunch. We respond. A trend is born. But clothes are about something else. Clothes, the ones that make their way into our closets as impulse buys, gifts or obligatory purchases for compulsory events, are about ourselves. If we bought Gucci leather trousers and a sheer shirt last season, it says we saw something of ourselves in those tarty trappings. But what we actually decide to put on our backs each day and venture out into the world in has nothing to do with trends or marketing. It has to do with who we want to show the world we are. Or who we want to convince ourselves we could be. In the photographs on the next page, people were asked to contribute pictures of themselves when they felt at their personal best. And to a one, the images illustrate how feeling good in clothes has little to do with being fashionable. The clothes set the mood in each photo not because they fit a trend but because they fit the person, and who each one was at the moment the photo was snapped. So perhaps people aren't the slaves to trends that the fashion industry has so long depicted them as being; perhaps the trends are a slave to the individual, who uses them to say something about himself or herself in a particular point in his or her life. Of course, as long as we have the clothes from our past in a closet, we can always revisit ourselves. When hooded sweaters, a trend from my teens in the 70's, came back into style two years ago, I bought one. Immediately, I felt regressed. Wearing it made me feel awkward and unconfident, all Farrah Fawcett hair and pimpled and chubby-cheeked. This time, the hooded sweater was cashmere, not cotton, but the price didn't remove the associations. I never wore it out of the house. A closet is a sort of contemporary biography of your life, which is to say, part 'Dutch' and part 'Fortunate Son.' Were you really as wild as that fringed jacket lets on? Were you as conservative as that navy blazer suggests? Did you really ever feel that Greek letters on the rump of your sweat pants said everything that needed to be said about you? What about that Grateful Dead T-shirt? Or that Morgan Stanley baseball cap? No particular item or outfit can represent your complete self. If you are what you wear, then you are buffeted daily by compromises to your identity. I have clothes for courage -- anything that feels punk or hip-hop or brash or too young for me to really get away with, like a Clash T-shirt and my ripped Levi's. Or my army pants decorated with studs. I have clothes that are camouflage -- in my case lean suits to be worn with Manolo Blahniks, a costume that reeks of authority in my role as style editor. I have boyfriend clothes: short skirts and tight sweaters that I so named before my boyfriend became my husband. I would never wear my boyfriend clothes to a fashion party. I would never wear my fashion clothes on a romantic holiday with my husband. Clothes are really identifiers of each person as a performer in his own life. And a lot of what we wear has to do with who is going to be looking. Remember Miss Lonely Hearts in Alfred Hitchcock's 'Rear Window'? She is rendered a pathetic character just by the knowledge that she would dress up in her 'boyfriend clothes' and then spend the night alone. Clothes without an audience are poignant reminders of how little we ever wear only for ourselves. Of course, clothes are anything but a pure, clear form of communication. On pages spread throughout this issue are photos of people picked from the streets of New York City. Can you tell who they are from what they are wearing? A panel of experts, for the most part, couldn't. Each outfit reflects a personality, but the clothes also show what each person considers to be armor, clothes that confer power in a city that too often ignores the identities of its residents. And the compromises you make because of what you own or what you can afford only complicate the picture. For instance, you would have been Calvin Klein minimalist today, but the impending lunch with your mother-in-law drove you toward Ungaro. You're a ripped-denim guy trapped in middle management worsted wool. You gained 10 pounds, or you would have been a Lycra-wrapped vixen instead of a smocked flowered chiffon hausfrau. Very few occasions really allow you to be what you wear, fully and completely. Which is why those occasions -- the vacation to the place where no one knew you, the party where you could let your hair down, your childhood -- are always so dear to each of us. We dressed more completely for ourselves than at any other time. One reason that clothing can stereotype us so inescapably is that even the most minute detail can signify an entire personality type. There's no need for Marcel Proust flourishes of prose. If the descriptive is as limited as 'ruffles,' the woman becomes immediately clear. In Peter Biskind's book 'Easy Riders, Raging Bulls,' a young Steven Spielberg is described as a guy with too many zippers on his pants. Which tells you something about Spielberg (or one aspect of Spielberg) that his entire film opus can't. Anyone who has ever stood passively and been dressed by someone else -- her mother or lover or a stylist to the stars -- knows how quickly identity disappears. It was common in my parents' generation for wives to dress their husbands; maybe that contributed to the confusion about who our fathers really were. Once, when I was being photographed for Vogue magazine, an editor put me in a bright red wool suit with a skirt that flared and a collarless boxy jacket. My own mother went through the issue five times and couldn't find me on the full page I occupied. The clothes we select for ourselves are a better indicator of who we think we are than our faces or our bodies, which we didn't choose. Clothes are our one chance to right whatever physical wrongs God has imposed on us. They can be a mirror of what's inside, or a veneer of camouflage against a world that judges quickly on surfaces, or a map to display your aspirations. You are what you wear, but that turns out to be as complex as you are. Amy M. Spindler is the style editor of the magazine. Correction: December 19, 1999, Sunday A picture caption on Nov. 14 with an article about dressing and identity misstated the year of a photograph of the actress Gina Gershon taken when she was 5. It was 1970, not 1967.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Men Behaving Badly As far as I understand the law, at least in California, if somebody threatens to harm me, it is assault, and if he actually touches me, it is assault and battery. If somebody in a workplace grabbed my genitals, he would get a warning. Any repetition would result in a criminal complaint. Janet Rosen San Francisco",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"A Reporter's Odyssey In Unseen China LEAD: John Burns's exit escapade says more about the frustrations and bitterness of being a reporter in China than about China itself. John Burns's exit escapade says more about the frustrations and bitterness of being a reporter in China than about China itself. Academic specialists in China routinely move into Chinese institutions of learning for a year or more and do not suffer the kind of surveillance or restrictions that prominent reporters and diplomats do. Hope ahead lies in training programs such as the Hopkins-Nanjing Center, in which American graduate students, fluent in Chinese, can study the institutions and organizations of China before setting out to analyze current events there. BARRY KEENAN Department of History Denison University Granville, Ohio",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Meatballs Devour Worms!! For the past six years NASA has been trying to wipe out the tubular red logo ('the worm') that has symbolized space exploration since 1975. The chief exterminator is Dan Goldin, NASA's administrator, who says that the original 1958 emblem ('the meatball') better commemorates the program's mission. But wasting the worm, which has adorned everything from welcome mats to wind tunnels, is taking longer than Goldin would like. Keith Cowing, an ex-NASA payload manager who documents worm sightings on the NASA Watch Web site (http:// www.reston.com/nasa/watch. html), raps Goldin's subordinates for obsessively hiding the worm from the boss. A NASA spokesman protests, saying the agency is worming itself -- harmlessly -- over time (old letterhead will be used up, etc.): 'If someone decides they better go and eradicate this, that or the other thing, it's not because of Goldin.' But an internal memo E-mailed to facility operations managers at the Goddard Space Flight Center on Dec. 9 and leaked to Cowing points to an unforgiving attitude about the parasitic logo. The memo asks the managers to 'remove or cover up' any remaining worms in advance of a visit by Goldin, who is fond of wearing a meatball lapel pin, because the creepy-crawly is one of his 'pet peeves.' 'This may seem somewhat trivial,' the memo says, 'but life is hard enough without making folks in high places mad.' Goldin, for his part, denies that the meatball is an obsession or the worm a pet peeve, then adds, 'but if people think it is and it helps to stimulate positive change, I'm all for it.' ON SUNDAY, JANUARY 10, 1999: LOST IN SPACE",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"How Can We Save The Next Victim? Clearly, 'How Can We Save the Next Victim?' (By Lisa Belkin, June 15) needed to be written. It is an excellent analysis of all the factors that contribute to a medical horror. I would like to emphasize one more that ought not be disregarded. It is based on my own experiences as an emergency physician: namely, the importance of self-confidence combined with a willingness to confront and challenge those in so-called higher authority in any matter of doubt concerning the best treatment of a patient. Both as a resident and as an attending, I have challenged the decisions of anesthesiologists, cardiothoracic surgeons, general surgeons, radiologists and anyone else I believed erred to the detriment of a patient. So far I have made the right decisions. I know the odds are that a day may come when I may err. I have two hopes: that the error will not be catastrophic, and that a nurse, resident, pharmacist, orderly, dietitian or any other colleague will notice it and will unhesitatingly indicate it to me for the benefit of the patient. Robert H. Meyer, M.D. Bronx Assistant Professor Albert Einstein College of Medicine",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Way We Live Now: 2-6-00: Salient Facts: Armored S.U.V.'s; Gangsta on Board According to law-enforcement officials, Puffy Combs -- the rapper recently charged with throwing a 9-millimeter handgun out the window of his speeding Lincoln Navigator -- had installed a secret trap door to hide a weapon. The problem? The trap door's security system was so elaborate that in the heat of the moment no one in the car could figure out how to get it open. According to a report in The New York Post, one witness told the grand jury that Combs yelled: 'Trap! Trap! Open the trap!' (Combs has pleaded not guilty to charges of illegal gun possession.) Police say that secret gun vaults are increasingly common among certain high-risk drivers. And for those who have enough money and know the right auto-body mechanic, they are just one of the many options available. Trap Doors First used by drug gangs, these discreet compartments can keep illegal contraband (or legitimate cargo, should the need arise) safe and out of sight. As long as you can open them, that is: law-enforcement officials in New York have discovered traps -- inside dashboards, behind back seats, in door panels and floorboards -- that pop open only when the operator turns on the heat while the radio is set to a certain station, or when he inserts a hairpin into connections in the doorjamb while stepping on the brakes. More high-tech versions involve a series of microswitches that must be flipped in sequence. A few years ago, a drug gang in Washington Heights had a whole fleet of nondescript sedans whose traps could be opened only by inserting fuses into the second and fourth slots on the right column of the fuse box and then activating the rear-window defroster. 'Five years ago,' one veteran New York City lawman said, 'these things were unusual. Now they're commonplace.' Then again, he added, 'to some degree that's a function that we know to look for them now.' Trap doors aren't actually illegal. Still, many alarm shops or auto detailers are leery of installing them. 'The police department frowns upon that kind of stuff,' said the owner of a custom shop in the Bronx. 'If you start putting it in they give you a hard time. People ask me for safes, and I won't do it, because it's just too much to have in my head.' Michael Trusio, a senior sales executive at Krystal Enterprises in Brea, Calif., agrees that it's business he'd rather not have. But, he added, 'we don't want to tell somebody no and then have someone come around and burn our plant down.' Armor Car armor, which can include bulletproof glass in the windows, ballistic steel in the doors and body and Kevlar shields for the floorboards and gas tank, was once used for skittish billionaires and presidential motorcades. Today, it's just another accessory for the nation's wealthiest drivers. But all that security doesn't come cheap. Outfitting the family Mercedes in this bulletproof material can cost $100,000. And for some, that's just the beginning. 'I can think of 10 or 12 families who have armored cars for everyone,' said Craig Fingold, the president of Beverly Hills Motoring, which has dubbed itself the Neiman Marcus of automotive accessories. Depending on the thickness, armor can add from 400 to 4,000 pounds to the weight of the car. Fingold said that a record mogul who had been threatened with death by a rapper had recently come in and had his Suburban outfitted with 4-inch metal -- enough to stop machine-gun fire. And Notorious B.I.G. stopped in to check out an armoring system but did not buy it. A few months later, he was shot to death in his Suburban. The Works Even drivers whose security concerns don't involve wielding or dodging heavy firepower have a number of self-defense toys to consider. Auto Taser ($200) delivers a powerful electric shock to anyone who lays an unwelcome hand on the steering wheel. Tiny video cameras ($800) that are installed with a clear view of the front seat can be useful for those who want evidence of police harassment; Fingold says they're especially popular with celebrities and sports figures. But for some wary drivers, the best defense is a good offense. Outfits like the Counter Spy Shops sell devices that spew oil, leaving a dangerous slick behind them ($1,300); they are reportedly popular in Russia, as are similar devices that spray a mist of oil on the windshield of the car behind ($1,300). Contraptions that scatter a large number of tacks in a car's wake -- first seen on countless Saturday-morning cartoons -- cost slightly more. (They start at $1,500.) Counter Spy claims it installed one for the Shah of Iran. Thankfully for the average American driver, however, most are available for export only. Finally, for those less afraid of fellow motorists than of airborne hazards, the smart choice is a tear-gas deterrent system that seals the car against unfiltered air ($5,000).",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Chelsea Under Wraps Margaret Talbot (Dec. 3) seems concerned that the press has somehow given Chelsea Clinton a pass; after all, she's an adult now and making appearances with her mother, accompanying her parents on official foreign visits and so on. I am wondering what Talbot might ask Chelsea that might interest readers. Are there issues relating to education, social security or the economy where Chelsea might offer some new vision? Perhaps, but I doubt it. More likely, the questions would be rather embarrassing ones about her father's foibles, in which she played no part. That would be unfair and unseemly. Of greater interest to readers is why the press gave Chelsea's mother a pass during Mrs. Clinton's long campaign for the Senate seat in New York. As a candidate for a major office, she traveled all over the state for some 18 months and never held a news conference where questions were freely asked and answered. Delia McQuade Emmons North Caldwell, N.J.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"My Dad's Workless Ethic I was 11 when my father brought home a huge Texas Instruments calculator that cost nearly $150. It was 1972, and home calculators had just been invented; only scientists and millionaires had them. Dad had to have one, too. Dad wasn't a millionaire. He didn't even seem to work at a regular job. My sister and I knew that he had been a nightlife writer -- our mother married him partly for the great table at the Copacabana -- and that he had written for Ernie Kovacs at NBC, but by the time we began spending weekend custody visits with him, his jobs were few and far between. 'Very early on, I never seemed to have money,' he tells me. 'But I wanted a lot of things. My tastes were patrician.' 'You could have done the Horatio Alger thing,' I say. 'You could have gone out and worked hard.' There is a brief pause. 'To hell with that!' he says cheerfully. When I was young, Dad lived mostly on a $60 unemployment check, sleeping at his mother's apartment in the city or on his boat on Long Island. I was told that I had agreed to pay for this boat myself, at age 3, with a savings bond given to me at birth. Dad doesn't remember that now, but he admits that it sounds like something he would think up and that his rules about money have always been unusual. If you want something, he thinks, you should . . . arrange it. Other girls had fathers who came to school from their offices in suits, carrying briefcases containing paychecks. Beside them stood my father in jeans and cowboy boots, impatient to go buy a tin of caviar he couldn't afford. What had he been doing all week? 'I had a great fantasy,' he would begin. 'I pick up this beautiful girl hitchhiking, and we really hit it off. It turns out her father is the sultan of Brunei. He's grateful. He gives me a million dollars.' My father would furnish an imaginary mansion with a stainless-steel refrigerator full of smoked salmon. From there, his daydream mutated and grew and was never told the same way twice -- he was, after all, a writer. Spinning fantasy into reality was his job, we thought. It seemed like decent work. My mother said she divorced my father because her own work ethic was set in concrete and his roamed loose in the ozone, inextricably linked to fate, an entity he referred to as They. Every once in a while, They rained money down on him, enough for a three-pound lobster or, hell, maybe a new car. Whatever he got was spent instantly on luxuries -- edible or with engines. Cocktail rings for short-lived girlfriends. Big loans to friends or strangers for worthless causes. People should never have to explain why they wanted money, he said. Money just wanted to be wanted. They would reward you if you kept that in mind. Dad did, and They did too. My father met his two best friends nearly 70 years ago at summer camp. 'We used to go out in the woods together to blow things up and have long soulful conversations,' he remembers. 'We made this promise: if any one of us struck it good, he would take care of the others.' His friends went West and ended up in oil exploration. Obeying the childhood vow, they made my father a small-percentage partner in some of the wells they drilled. The odds were slim, but the fantasizing was superb -- just like the sultan of Brunei, Dad was in the oil business! And guess what? One of those wells turned out to be the first in a massive oil field in Montana, and my dad entered the upper middle class. The friends considered it a fair trade. 'Your father,' one of them once told me, 'he's smart; he's funny; he can do crossword puzzles, you know?' In his late 40's, Dad moved to Denver and became a columnist, a radio and TV commentator and what one local paper called a 'raconteur-about-town.' Naturally, these gigs pay almost nothing, unless you count local celebrity, which he does. How do you balance a squandering father against a mother who insists that work is good for the soul? Which version of reality sounds better? I've worked all my adult life, but 40-hour-a-week office jobs always filled me with dread; I got out as soon as I could. 'Oh, yes, the dread,' my father says. 'I know all about it.' Which isn't to say dread can't be defied. Two years ago, in response to being told he was too sick to drive, Dad bought a brand new Chevrolet Suburban. The new car is equipped with an industrial-strength winch. Why? The answer to this question is so obvious: you never know what might happen to you once you have a winch, provided you shell out for a good one. The best they make, my father would advise. Top of the line. MEMOIRS Robin Chotzinoff is the author of 'People With Dirty Hands.'",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Lessons of Classroom 506 From the late 1970's into the 1990's, we were part of a tenacious team of parents who collaborated with our school system to design an inclusive education model for five children with significant disabilities. In 1997, these kids graduated with their friends (typically developing peers) from their local high school. Today, our daughter (who has Down syndrome) maintains her own apartment, takes public transportation to her receptionist job at the Y.M.C.A. and is a contributing and respected member of her community. How sad that after 25 years shaping inclusive education policy is still dependent on the parents who are most vocal and persistent. Our message to the Ellensons is, No matter how difficult the journey, stay the course. Joan and Murray Smith Montclair, N.J.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"After Neoconservatism The articles by Francis Fukuyama, Nir Rosen and Dexter Filkins ('Strategy Tragedy?') made me reach for my copy of Paul Berman's March 23, 2003, Times Magazine article, 'The Philosopher of Islamic Terror,' about Sayyid Qutb. At the end of the article, Berman asks who in the West is going to speak up as the counterbalance to the deep philosophical ideas articulated by Qutb and being acted upon by Zarqawi and others. Political leaders, he reminds us, 'speak of United Nations resolutions, of unilateralism, of multilateralism, of weapons inspectors, of coercion and noncoercion' while concluding that 'This is no answer to the terrorists.' I'm still waiting for the hero of this war on Islamo-fascism to emerge. Lawrence Appell Scottsdale, Ariz.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"THE NEXT MILES DAVIS MAY BE ON THIS PAGE FINDING A UNIVERSITY WITH A JAZZ PROGRAM MAY BE EASIER THAN EVER THESE days, but the surest route to jazz proficiency -- the old-fashioned apprenticeship -- is another matter. The big band, the archetypal jazz university, peaked long ago, and, with the deaths of Arthur Taylor and Art Blakey, there are ever fewer older band leaders willing to discover and mold young talent. Betty Carter understands this. She studied at the Detroit Conservatory of Music as a teen-ager, but it was by singing with band leaders like Lionel Hampton that she really learned music -- how to write an arrangement, how to keep the piano player from ruining a perfectly nice tune by tacking flowery arpeggios onto the end. Carter, now one of most formidable song stylists in jazz, also runs its most successful finishing school. Dozens of musicians have graduated from her trio -- most recently, a flock of excellent pianists including Cyrus Chestnut, Jacky Terrasson, Benny Green and Mulgrew Miller. But Carter can shuffle only so many players through her trio. So three years ago, she rounded up about 20 young musicians from across the country and brought them to New York for a week of composing and arranging, capped off by a weekend of concerts. She called the project Jazz Ahead and vowed to do it once a year, which gives her 12 months to scout the next generation by sifting through cassettes and trolling through clubs and festivals. This year's ensemble, who performed at the Majestic Theater in Brooklyn under the aegis of the arts center 651, was typically extraordinary. The 21-year-old trumpeter Peven Everett played with such cool force that his colleagues fixated on him, even during rehearsals. Already, the Carter experience has worked for Everett -- he'll tour this summer with Buckshot LeFonque, Branford Marsalis's new band; and Karriem Riggins, a drummer who played the last two years with Jazz Ahead, has joined Roy Hargrove's band. By the evidence so far, Carter will repopulate the jazz scene as successfully with this large group as with her trio. She is a cranky, loving teacher. During rehearsals, she routinely scolded the musicians to tighten up the pieces they had written and to purge their playing of cliches. Above all, she's after originality, both in composition and improvisation. Sometimes, it's the basics that need work. Jennifer Vincent, a 25-year-old bassist, was having trouble swinging on one tune; Carter came and stood beside her and, moving her own hands as if juggling, coaxed Vincent into the groove. The concert the next night featured one solid composition after another, one startling solo after the next. When Peven Everett delivered a particularly fiery trumpet solo, Carter introduced him to the crowd as ""a veteran who will be flying off on his own soon."" She paused, mock bittersweet. ""But that's O.K. -- that's what this is for."" -- STEPHEN J. DUBNER",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"The Apartment John Dillinger saved my life, 68 years after his death by firing squad in a federal ambush outside the Biograph Theater in Chicago. J. Edgar Hoover had designated Dillinger public enemy No. 1 and ordered him shot on sight after the gangster humiliated the pug-faced Hoover by calmly machine-gunning his way past the Feds outside Apartment 303 of Lincoln Court in St. Paul, Minn. These days, I'm living in that hideout. Granted, my girlfriend's name is on the lease. And she's not particularly comfortable with my channeling an infamous previous tenant, who vacated via tommy gun without giving notice. 'The only reason you want to go out with me is so you can live in John Dillinger's apartment,' she told me once. But even Rachel can't deny the draw of a man who robbed more banks and stole more cash in a year than Jesse James did in 16. In 1934, moments after Dillinger was made a ghost outside the Biograph, onlookers dipped handkerchiefs into his blood for a memento of the leading antihero of the Great Depression. Personally, I didn't even have a minor depression to explain why I needed to believe in Dillinger. In 1998, I was sandwiched by two bikes while in-line skating, fractured my leg in four spots, had orthopedic surgery, felt infectious osteomyelitis creep into my bones and spent the next half a year on my back. Anchored to my bed not by depression but by my quickly atrophying body, I gave up and lived on credit cards and cigarettes for two years. Luckily, I didn't end up, as warned, walking like Dustin Hoffman's Ratso Rizzo in 'Midnight Cowboy.' But unable to work, play or enjoy the comforts of kin for so long, I hid out from friends and family. 'It's like you just stopped,' said my last girlfriend; I numbly replied, 'You're right,' helped gather her belongings and held the door open. It was the agreeable Midwestern thing to do, what we call Minnesota Nice. Now, having found Rachel, who doesn't mind a spiritless middle-aged slacker hanging around, I have become obsessed with the gangster who ate in the same room where we play Yahtzee. Dillinger, born and bred in Indiana, was a Midwestern robber; he even refused to take cash from farmers waiting to make deposits inside banks he knocked off. Apartment 303 is much the same as it was that March morning when Dillinger and his moll, Evelyn (Billie) Frechette, were talking in the bedroom when the Feds knocked. One morning, I unhooked the chain and re-enacted the scene for Rachel. I used an unconvincing Fred Flintstone bellow for the G-man, a pathetic Betty Boop squeal for Billie and an imitation of Humphrey Bogart as Duke Mantee in 'The Petrified Forest' for Dillinger. It was a characterization Bogie based entirely on Dillinger, right down to the gangster's jutting elbows. When the agent asked for Carl Hellman, Billie replied, 'Who?' She'd forgotten their aliases. Meanwhile, I had forgotten that I was wearing only my Bullwinkle boxer shorts. Outside, another sightseeing bus had stopped outside our living-room window. Dozens of tourists were watching my improvised skit. I tried to think what Dillinger would have done. Affecting his level-headedness, I remembered what he told Billie when she told him guns were waiting a few feet away: 'Grab some clothes . . . let's get out of here.' I repeated his line, dived headfirst across the floor like Pete Rose into home plate, slid into my jeans, then escaped down the back stairs. Next day, I bought Rachel a red plastic tommy gun that shot water 40 feet. The point was to wait for a tour bus, then spray the grounds like the humane Dillinger, who shot high when he poked his machine gun out the apartment door. His best lessons, however, came in a letter to his sister Audrey. 'I am sending Emmett my wooden gun and I want him to always keep it,' he wrote, referring to the pistol he'd carved, covered with shoe polish and used to force his way out of an 'escape proof' jail. It was Dillinger's most Houdini-like act, and he knew his friend would understand its sui generis magic. 'When you feel blue, all you have to do is look at the gun.' He never lost hope even when half the country was looking to kill him. And here I had given up for good, as if my immovable body shriveling up was a portent of the inferno. He finished the letter wishfully: 'Give my love to all and I hope I can see you soon. . . . Lots of love from Johnnie.' Within days, Dillinger shot his way out our front door. And by New Year's 2003, I was eating cake at an aunt's 80th birthday, chawing with family I'd avoided since the end of the previous millennium. 'Where have you been?' they all asked. I didn't answer; I just laughed, my elbows as high as Duke Mantee's. That day, I bought leftover holiday cards. 'Give my love to all and I hope I can see you soon, ' I wrote on each one. They are bound to the friends I disappeared from, though my girlfriend won't let me sign them 'Johnnie.' LIVES Neal Karlen is the author, most recently, of 'Slouching Towards Fargo.'",0 Top/Features/Magazine," As a longtime guest of the Sun Spa hotel, I took umbrage at the possibility of being counted among the denizens of dance studios in Miami. The Spa has a full program of exercise, diet and nightly entertainment. A very small group of the female guests participate in an activity popular in our culture by having social interaction with dance instructors. Anthropologists and psychiatrists maintain that dancing is a form of exercise. How about grown men hitting a defenseless golf ball for four to five hours every weekend (which I do)! SAMUEL E. FRIEDMAN New York",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"THE NEXT HUNDRED YEARS I was disappointed to find scant mention of sports in your issue devoted to 2096. As a lifelong Boston Red Sox fan, I was eager to find out if we have a chance of winning the World Series in the next 100 years. JOCK HOFFMAN Arlington, Mass.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"Introduction Lisa Belkin's cover article on Fanconi anemia prompted mail urging prospective parents to get genetic testing. Responding to the flap over a historian's phony war stories, veterans said that those who served don't talk about it. And a request for an allergy-proof cake drew many recipes.",0 Top/Features/Magazine,"'C.S.I.' Myth, The In popular detective shows like 'C.S.I.,' science almost always helps the cops nab the bad guy. But in the real world, two of the most respected tools of the crime-busting trade -- the polygraph machine and fingerprints -- are now being seriously questioned. In October, the National Academy of Sciences released a study declaring that the polygraph machine is a woefully 'blunt instrument' that has failed to ever catch a spy. Spooks like the infamous Aldrich Ames, the study concluded, can easily fool the supposedly unfoolable machine. Smooth criminals can apparently train themselves to beat the polygraph machine -- which measures pulse and breathing rates, sweating and blood pressure -- by using Valium and obscure muscular acrobatics involving their sphincters. Fingerprints were subjected to a similarly brutal interrogation this year. In January, Judge Louis H. Pollak of Philadelphia ruled in a murder case that the use of fingerprint evidence should be limited; in his view, there was not enough proof that the procedure is reliable. It was the first legal challenge to the infallibility of fingerprinting in nearly a century. The problem with fingerprinting is not the theory underlying it -- the whorled patterns are unique and unchanging throughout life -- but the clumsiness with which it's applied. Crime scenes do not yield clean, crisp prints. Detectives typically cull what is called a 'partial latent print,' a smudged, bloody fragment that is often only 20 percent of the fingertip. Consider a bitter fingerprint controversy in Britain involving Shirley McKie, a Scottish policewoman. McKie had been working on a murder case involving an elderly woman killed by her handyman. Detectives supposedly found a fingerprint belonging to McKie at the scene; McKie denied she was ever there. Later, two U.S. fingerprint experts corroborated her story. The culled print had been misread by British detectives. In the end, the matching of prints is an art rather than an exact science. Pollak's ruling caused an immediate uproar. In response, the F.B.I. argued that it had never botched a fingerprint identification. (Indeed, a bloody fingerprint from a murderous robbery in Alabama helped capture the accused sniper John Lee Malvo.) Pollak ultimately reversed his decision in terms of allowing evidence, but still expressed deep concern that 'there have been at least a few instances in which fingerprint examiners, here and abroad, have made identifications that turned out to be erroneous.' Until the F.B.I.'s standards become universal, then, the formerly sacrosanct fingerprint, like the polygraph, will be seen with newly skeptical eyes. Lawrence Osborne THE YEAR IN IDEAS",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Stylish Fish and Fans LEAD: 1. Flashy Fish 1. Flashy Fish Fish are in vogue, and not just for eating. This canvas tote bag by Zora of St. Thomas is the 'medium snapper' style with one zipper across the top and another across the mouth. It comes in red, yellow, blue or purple and costs $35. The bag is part of a collection of fish-inspired handbags and tote bags at the Seaport Museum Shops, 14 Fulton Street, at the South Street Seaport. 2. Summertime Breeze If you spend your day in an office that is not near currents of fresh air, this desk fan is for you. Made of sturdy black plastic, it is thin and compact, measuring 5 inches by 4 inches by 3 3/4 inches. The base has five settings to adjust positions, and the whole thing can be folded flat when the fan is not in use. The fan costs $40 at Conran's in the Citicorp building, 160 East 54th Street. 3. Miniature Office The 'Factory' is a portable, easy-to-carry collection of miniature office accessories. Made in the style of a Swiss Army knife, it contains a stapler, a staple remover, tape, scissors, a carton opener and a magnifying lens. The tools are stainless steel, housed in a polyethylene case small enough to fit in a handbag or briefcase. There is a choice of colors - red, blue, white or black. The price is $32.95 at Sam Flax, 55 East 55th Street and 12 West 20th Street. 4. Ice to Go This ice bucket is ideal for outdoor entertaining or taking to a picnic. It is pink, with an aqua top and a yellow handle. The price is $10 at Weigh To Go, 592 Columbus Avenue, between 88th and 89th Streets. DISCOVERIES",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Olestra vs. Bovine Hormone To The Living Section: There is a potentially harmful inconsistency in the Food and Drug Administration rulings on new food products. Procter & Gamble's new product olestra has been approved by the F.D.A. for use in certain snack foods, including potato chips, crackers and tortilla chips. But the products that use olestra will have to carry a warning about possible harmful gastrointestinal and nutritional side effects. Yet, when Monsanto's recombinant bovine growth hormone was approved by the F.D.A. to increase milk production in cows, no such product warning was required despite evidence that the hormone could affect the milk produced. One would think that even the possibility of health hazards to infants and young children would be of paramount concern. IAN ALTERMAN New York",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Wine Talk KEAT'S ""season of mists and mellow fruitfulness,"" currently upon us, has turned out to be a siege of rain and mud for Bordeaux. It may mean that prices of the 1990 Bordeaux wines, as well as those of 1988 and 1989, both good years, will climb. Burgundy, too, was hit by rain, and prices there, always more volatile than those in Bordeaux, should also go up. For serious collectors, these are serious matters; casual drinkers need not be concerned. There is plenty of good wine around at reasonable prices. What follows is a sampling of what can be found in shops at the lower end of the price scale. Any good store should have at least a few of them. Prices quoted are from shops in the New York area, but they can vary considerably. First, news from the Beaujolais region is good. Sort of. The summer was generous to the grapes, with plenty of sun. But there was also rain, particularly early this month around harvest time. Georges Duboeuf, a major shipper, predicts that the Beaujolais nouveau, scheduled for release Nov. 17, will be delicious. Red zinfandel, overshadowed for years by the simplistic ""white"" version, is back in fashion. Some moderately priced zinfandels worth trying are the Beringer Vineyards Napa Valley 1990, at $7; the Napa Ridge 1990, at $5; the 1992 Ravenswood Vintner's Blend, $7, and the 1988 Gallo, $5. Franciscan Vineyards' 1992 Oakville is worth its $10 price. The Ravenswood could benefit from two or three years more age; the Gallo has already done so. Even in an uncertain market, there are some inexpensive Bordeaux wines that always seem to be good. One is Chateau Larose-Trintaudon, from St. Laurent, just behind the more famous commune of Pauillac in the Medoc. Not a complex wine, it's a good buy at $8.50 for the great 1990 vintage. The 1987 vintage in Bordeaux was not a great one; the wines were good but short-lived. Some are still around, and they may be at their best now. Look for Chateau Canon Moueix, from the commune of Fronsac, at about $12, or Chateau Hortvie, from St. Julien, $10. From the good 1989 vintage, Chateau Beau-Site, a St.-Estephe, is a find at $14. Most merlots taste like cabernets with the tannins removed. Sometimes this is an asset, sometimes not. Fortant de France makes a respectable, soft but flavorful merlot from vineyards in the far south of France, in the region of Pays d'Oc. The 1993 is not bad at $6. Compare it with a 1993 Vendange merlot from California at $5. The Vendange is a bit lighter but does not want for flavor. Vendange is a second label of Sebastiani Vineyards. Inexpensive pinot noir is a thing of the past. Well, almost. A 1992 Red Table Wine from Calera Vineyards in California is no match for one of the fine Calera single-vineyard pinot noirs, but it is 100 percent pinot noir, has decent pinot character and is a good buy at $11. Almost as good is a 1990 Burgogne rouge from Joseph Faiveley, a prominent Burgundy shipper, at $12. From Italy comes an old favorite, the Chianti classico of the Castello di Gabbiano. The 1990, a fine vintage in Tuscany, is $8.50; the even richer 1988 Riserva, $13. The 1990 Chianti classico from Antinori is outstanding at $10. With Tuscany as with Bordeaux, it's worth seeking out the 1990 wines; the two following years were mediocre at best. Good, inexpensive cabernets include Sebastiani's 1991 Sonoma at $9; Benziger's 1991 is also $9. Daniel Estate is the label the John Daniel Estate in the Napa Valley uses for the cabernet sauvignon that doesn't go into Dominus, the expensive wine made by Christian Moueix, who is best known for his Chateau Petrus in the Pomerol region of Bordeaux. The Rioja region of Spain was largely developed by Bordeaux wine makers who went there after phylloxera destroyed most of their own vineyards in the late 19th century. The Reserve Rioja from Conde de Valdemar, at $8, and the Marques de Riscal Rioja, $9, both from 1989, are examples of what bargains Spanish wines can be. Inexpensive whites are rarely as good as inexpensive reds. But there are a few; it's a question of seeking them out. Here are a few turned up by a diligent search. Gavilan is the second label of the legendary Chalone Vineyard, which is located in the Gavilan mountains south of San Francisco. The 1992 Gavilan is almost Burgundian in its leanness. But it lacks neither freshness nor fruit. A buy at $10. Fetzer's Barrel Select Chardonnay is an old standby, always intense and rich. The 1992 vintage is $10. Georges Duboeuf may be the ""king of Beaujolais"" but his family comes from white wine country, the Macon region north of Beaujolais. With that in mind, try his Pouilly-Fuisse at $12, or his St.-Veran at $7.50, both from the 1993 vintage. Louis Jadot's 1992 Macon-Villages at $8 is excellent. The Vieille Ferme is not an old farm as the name suggests but a large winery in the southern Rhone region owned by the Perrin Family of Chateau de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Vieille Ferme white, at $6, is robust enough to take the place of some light red wines. TASTINGS Domaine Carneros Taittinger Brut. Under $20. Nowhere is the improvement in American sparkling wine more evident than in the case of Domaine Carneros, Taittinger Champagne's California cousin. The wine is elegant and light bodied, though perhaps not as delicate as the wine from the mother house in Reims, France. The California wine is made entirely from grapes from the Napa Valley's prestigious Carneros region. Gone completely are the rough edges that once were all too common in American sparklers. The bubbles in Domaine Carneros are small, and they linger almost until the glass is emptied. California's sparkling wines used to be looked down on by Champagne purists. Like other Champagne houses with branches in America, Taittinger refuses to call the domestic product Champagne. And properly so -- but it's mighty close.",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Calendar: A Cruise, Shows and Talks New York Modernism The Lighthouse, 111 East 59th Street; (212) 501-3013. The architect Robert A. M. Stern will give a talk on the Modernist movement in New York on Wednesday at 6 P.M., as part of a lecture series on art and architecture in major world cities, sponsored by the Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts. The other programs will be about Stockholm (July 17), Berlin (July 24) and Paris (July 31). Reservations are required. The fee for each lecture is $35; students and those 65 and older, $25. River Views Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum; (212) 860-6321. The annual architectural cruise sponsored by Cooper-Hewitt on the Hudson and East Rivers, with commentary on New York's skyline by the urban historian Andrew Dolkart and jazz by the Pete Beller Quintet, is on July 17, from 7 to 10 P.M. No one younger than 10. Reservations are required. Tickets, $45; members and students, $35; those 10 to 16, $15. Women in Arts and Crafts Craftsman Farms, 2352 Route 10 West (two and a half miles west of Interstate 287), Parsippany, N.J.; (201) 540-1165. An exhibition of more than 60 works by women who worked in the Arts and Crafts style from 1895 to 1920, including ceramics, jewelry, prints, textiles and metal objects, starts Sunday and continues through Oct. 6. Open Thursday, noon to 3 P.M. and Saturday and Sunday, 1 to 4 P.M. Admission is $4; those older than 60 and students, $3; those 11 and younger, no charge. Garden Talks Nassau County Museum of Art, 1 Museum Drive (off Northern Boulevard), Roslyn Harbor, L.I.; (516) 484-9338. Marco Polo Stufano, director of horticulture at the Wave Hill Center in the Riverdale section of the Bronx, will lecture on the use of color and texture in garden design, illustrated with pictures of gardens in North America, on Monday at 10:30 A.M. Penelope Maynard, a garden designer who is involved in the restoration of the gardens at Rockefeller University in Manhattan, will give a talk on using plants native to Africa in North American gardens on July 15 at 2 P.M. Reservations are required for both programs. Fee, including a reception, is $15 (members, $12). Frasconi's Books Grolier Club, 47 East 60th Street; (212) 838-6690. ""The Books of Antonio Frasconi: 50 Years,"" an exhibition of more than 60 books by Mr. Frasconi -- including books that he has written and books that he has illustrated by Pablo Neruda, Bertolt Brecht, Isaac Bashevis Singer and W. S. Merwin -- continues through July 31. Open Monday through Saturday, 10 A.M. to 5 P.M. No charge. History Camp Abigail Adams Smith Museum, 421 East 61st Street; (212) 838-6878. A four-day neighborhood history camp offered by the museum for those 9 to 12 years old, with walking tours, museum visits, art projects and storytelling, runs from July 15 to 19, 8:30 A.M. to 3 P.M. Tuition, $75. International Fashion The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, Seventh Avenue at 27th Street; (212) 760-7760. An exhibition of clothing by 50 fashion students from 28 countries continues through July 31. The designs were chosen from 1,905 in a contest that encouraged students to incorporate their own cultural heritage as well as environmental awareness. Open Tuesday through Friday, noon to 8 P.M.; Saturday, 10 A.M. to 5 P.M. No charge. 80 Years of Interior Design New York School of Interior Design, 170 East 70th Street; (212) 472-1500. A show of drawings, photos, artifacts and models of interior designs by alumni and by designers who have taught at the school continues through Aug. 23. Open Monday through Friday, 11 A.M. to 5 P.M. No charge. Fiber Artistry Textile Museum, 2320 S Street NW, Washington; (202) 667-0441. A retrospective exhibition of more than 75 works by the fiber artist Diane Itter (1946-89) will be at the museum through Jan. 5. The artist's works, which resemble paintings, are small-scale, hand-woven pieces of bright-color linen thread. Open Monday through Saturday, 10 A.M. to 5 P.M.; Sunday, 1 to 5 P.M. Suggested admission is $5. Doorknobs and More National Building Museum, 401 F Street NW, Washington; (202) 272-2448. Prototypes of doorknobs, faucets, hinges, switch plates and coat hooks made of metal, glass, wood, porcelain and plastic are displayed in an exhibition examining the role of decoration in functional hardware. The show, which continues through Aug. 11, contains objects and drawings by 11 artists, architects and designers. An exhibition of photographs, models, drawings and artifacts about three Japanese projects by Frank Lloyd Wright will be at the museum through Jan. 19. The buildings, Wright's only work outside the United States, are Yamamura House (1924) in Osaka and, in Tokyo, the Monichikan building at Jiyu Gakuen School (1921-26) and the Imperial Hotel (1916-23). Open Monday through Saturday, 10 A.M. to 5 P.M.; Sunday, noon to 5 P.M. No charge.",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"DETAILS THAT MAKE THE DIFFERENCE LEAD: To get a new look, it is no longer necessary to renovate a room totally. Changing the NUTS AND BOLTS Can make all the difference. Replacing a door knob and hinges, for example, can completely transform a door. Similarly, adding architectural moldings to a blank wall can give a room texture, not to mention A TOUCH OF CLASS. To get a new look, it is no longer necessary to renovate a room totally. Changing the NUTS AND BOLTS Can make all the difference. Replacing a door knob and hinges, for example, can completely transform a door. Similarly, adding architectural moldings to a blank wall can give a room texture, not to mention A TOUCH OF CLASS. This type of architectural detail need not be crafted from wood, either. Polyurethane moldings and wallpaper borders exist in an array of styles that imitate the grandest classical architecture. To transform a depressing bathroom into a chic space for BATHING BEAUTIES, try installing a new sink or faucet. Fortunately, manufacturers today offer cleverly designed details that include EVERYTHING AND THE KITCHEN SINK. NUTS AND BOLTS",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"All in the Family There are many wonderful creations in this bedroom, beginning with its occupant, Sofia Rower, who will soon turn 3. Her parents, Maria Robledo, a photographer, and Holton Rower, an artist, who live in a Manhattan loft, brought the considerable talents of several generations to bear on the tiny space, which makes up in personality what it lacks in size. (It's about 9 by 11 feet.) The gem of the room, besides Sofia, is the oak crib, which was lovingly handmade in Cambridge, Mass., 30 years ago by the little girl's great-uncle, Kenneth Rower. 'He built it for his kids,' says Holton Rower. 'Then it went to a friend of his. Then, when I had a child, he offered it to me.' The crib, which can be taken apart, is made entirely of wood. 'When you pull the side up, little wood hands that are spring-loaded shoot out to lock it,' Rower explains. With an ample shelf for toys or linens, and two roomy storage drawers below it, the crib also converts into a bed when the sides are removed. 'It's so sturdy that we can climb in with Sofia and read to her,' Robledo says. Above the crib is another legacy: a metal mobile given to Holton Rower by his grandfather, the artist Alexander Calder. The other objects have stories, too: the stuffed Humpty Dumpty was made by Sofia's grandmother, Mary Rower; the quilt is by her other grandmother, Letitia Robledo; the owl was sewn by a family friend, Sophia Murer, and the rabbit was hand-stitched by Sofia's father, who also spelled out his love in the acrylic painting on the wall. As this issue went to press, Sofia was awaiting the arrival of a sibling. So who will get the crib? 'It's unpredictable,' Robledo says. One matter, however, Rower is sure of: 'This bed will last for 400 years.'",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Where to Find It; Vintage Phones Made New Again LEAD: THERE, sitting among telephones shaped like petulant pink lips and brook trout and football helmets are the oldies: those heavy, black rotary-dial phones out of 1940's movies. All are for sale at the Phone Boutique in Manhattan. And for people who have just bought an antique phone at a flea market or found one in the attic, the shop specializes in fixing the dinosaurs of the communications age. THERE, sitting among telephones shaped like petulant pink lips and brook trout and football helmets are the oldies: those heavy, black rotary-dial phones out of 1940's movies. All are for sale at the Phone Boutique in Manhattan. And for people who have just bought an antique phone at a flea market or found one in the attic, the shop specializes in fixing the dinosaurs of the communications age. 'We do complete restorations from scratch,' said Yash Jesrani, the owner of the shop. 'We buff them, clean them, paint them. We even have original parts about 80 percent of the time.' Mr. Jesrani began collecting antique phones in the early 1970's. He travels around the world to buy them. He even buys them just for the parts. People who love antique phones are very picky, he said. They insist on just the right clicking sounds when they dial. And, Mr Jesrani said, 'the ring is an important consideration.' But, for many customers, the weight of the phone is the primary factor. The first thing they do when they walk into the shop is to pick up the handset. 'They want to feel the weight,' Mr. Jesrani said. 'They want the satisfaction.' On a rotary phone, the dial is usually the first part to malfunction, Mr. Jesrani said. 'Because of wear and tear,' he explained, 'it can misdial or dial too fast, and you'll get a number you weren't calling.' 'In most cases, we have to replace the cords,' Mr. Jesrani said, and he uses copies of the old cloth cords. Cracked phones are the most difficult to repair. They can be bonded together with epoxy and painted, but 'you will see a hairline crack,' Mr. Jesrani said. Old phones from the 1940's start at $69.95 and repairs at $75. A $10 deposit, applied to the cost of repairs, is required. Work takes one to two weeks if parts are available. The Old Telephone Company in Sanford, N.C., began 21 years ago when Judy Marsh decided she wanted an antique candlestick telephone. 'You know how it is,' she said. 'One turns into 2. Two turns into 10, 10 into 20.' Now the company, which is housed in a 1950's movie theater that Mrs. Marsh and her husband and business partner, Richard, recently restored, employs 10 people and takes in about 300 phones for repair each year. It also sells phones, ranging in price from $119 for a desk phone, circa 1937, to $1,800 for an ornate Ericsson Eiffel Tower telephone, dating to 1892 and made of brass, iron and ebony. One recent customer bought a 1950's coin-operated model 'so he could charge his children for using the phone,' Mrs. Marsh said. The Marshes are purists when it comes to repairing antique telephones. They will fix the innards of phones made before 1900 but will not fiddle with their outward appearance. 'We won't do any cosmetic work on them because they are collectibles, and they need to be in the shape they are,' she said. 'What's nice about old phones is that it's cost-effective to fix them,' Mrs. Marsh said, because they are generally made of very durable materials like Bakelite. The Chicago Old Telephone Company charges about $65 to restore a desk phone and $200 for restore a wooden wall-mounted phone. The work is guaranteed for one year. Twenty-two years ago, Betty and Ari Chisim went into business fixing old phones, and they still do today from their storefront, the A & B Professional Hearing Aid Center in Flushing, Queens. The company will fix phones dating from 1900. Mrs. Chisim said she and her husband can rewire old phones so that they can be used with today's modular jacks and so that they will meet Federal Communications Commission standards. Repairs range from $15 to $200 and generally take two to four days. The Chisims make house calls ($25 to $50) for phones - the wall-mounted variety, for example - that are difficult to move. HERE'S WHERE PHONE BOUTIQUE 828 Lexington Avenue (63d Street), New York, N.Y. 10021; 212-319-9650. Hours: 10 A.M. to 6:30 P.M. Monday through Friday. Phones are accepted by mail, or they can be dropped off for repair at the shop's factory in Flushing, Queens, by appointment. Call 718-445-7222. CHICAGO OLD TELEPHONE COMPANY 327 Carthage Street, Sanford, N.C. 27330; 800-843-1320. Hours: 8 A.M. to 5:30 P.M. Monday through Friday. Phones are accepted by mail; a free catalogue is available. A & B PROFESSIONAL HEARING AID CENTER 141-04 Northern Boulevard, Flushing, N.Y. 11354; 718-353-3737. Hours: noon to 6 P.M. Monday through Friday and noon to 5 P.M. Saturday, or by appointment. Phones are accepted by mail.",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Interior Design Firm Opens Its Attic Sills Huniford interior design has opened its Harlem storage space to retail customers, who can make appointments to dig through the constantly changing inventory. The 2,500-square-foot space, called the Dwellings Vintage Warehouse, has furnishings and decorative objects like a 17-inch-high gold-plated Syrian table lamp, above, from the mid-20th century ($1,800); a set of four midcentury Mies van der Rohe cane and steel chairs ($4,800); and a safari-style side table with a leather top ($650). The warehouse is at 1916 Park Avenue (131st Street). Appointments: (212) 717-5753. MARIANNE ROHRLICH CURRENTS: WHO KNEW?",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Corrections Pictures were credited erroneously in some copies last Thursday with an article about health-care institutions that reproduce small-town environments for people with memory loss. The pictures of Main Street and a brick archway and piano at the Waveny Care Center in New Canaan, Conn., were by Larry Lefever. Pictures of the Corumbene Nursing Home in Tasmania were by David Stephenson/Nest.",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"IN TEXAS, THE TWAIN NOT ONLY MEET BUT MARRY LEAD: It is 25 hot, dusty miles from Paducah to the ranch. The road winds past brakes of cedar and clumps of lowing Brahman cows, turns into caliche and ends at a small white house behind a picket fence. It is not the kind of place one expects to find a great-granddaughter of Baron Paul von Gontard of Berlin, one of the leading figures in the Daimler automobile company, and a great-great-granddaughter of Adolphus Busch, a co-founder of Anheuser It is 25 hot, dusty miles from Paducah to the ranch. The road winds past brakes of cedar and clumps of lowing Brahman cows, turns into caliche and ends at a small white house behind a picket fence. It is not the kind of place one expects to find a great-granddaughter of Baron Paul von Gontard of Berlin, one of the leading figures in the Daimler automobile company, and a great-great-granddaughter of Adolphus Busch, a co-founder of Anheuser-Busch. Yet the ebullient 33-year-old woman in a plain gray housedress who opens the creaky front door of the ranch house was once known as Eugenie von Gontard. She grew up in Greenwich, Conn., with all the perquisites of inherited wealth: polo, fox hunting, the best finishing schools, safaris to Africa. Eight years ago she came to West Texas to sample ranch life and ended up marrying the cowboy next door, Jerry Bob Daniel, whose grandfather came west walking behind a covered wagon. Their marriage has bridged two cultures that could scarcely have been more different, rich versus humble, East versus West, urban versus rural. Had things been otherwise, Eugenie Daniel might be living the life of a New York socialite: yacht clubs, charity balls, flashy parties, nannies. She has traded this for a remote Texas ranch, where the milk comes from the family cow, horses are used for work, shopping means a weekly expedition into town, the closest hospital is 30 grueling miles away and an exciting night out is dinner at Huey's Palace, the nearest Chinese restaurant, nearly 100 miles away in Vernon. Both sides of Mrs. Daniel's family have their roots in St. Louis. Her father's father worked with August Busch Sr. in the family beer-brewing business. Her mother's family, the Williamses, had vast land holdings in Texas that date back more than a century. As a girl, Mrs. Daniel visited their ranch, the Pitchfork, west of Paducah. She earned her spurs there, showing skeptical cowboys that she could ride and brand cattle with the best of them. 'They were trying to see if they could run me off, but they couldn't,' she recalled. She then took a job as the 'mare person' at the Pitchfork, taking care of 70 broodmares, feeding and weaning their colts. Her romance with Jerry Bob Daniel, whom she met at a community dance, came at first as an unpleasant surprise to both sets of parents. 'I don't blame her folks one bit,' Mr. Daniel said in his pleasant Texas lilt. At 28, he is a shy but intense man, with blue eyes framed by sharp, handsome features. 'I'm just a country boy. I'd never been out of the state before. To accept me, whacko, just like that, was a pretty hard thing to do.' 'Just like that' was precisely what they were asked to do. 'I asked for her hand in marriage in April of 1981,' Mr. Daniel said. 'We wanted to get married on July 4. They were pretty tough on me. Her father said there was no way you're going to marry my daughter in July. You're going to wait six months at the minimum, go through a test. We have to announce it. 'And I was walking down that road with him, and I said, 'I'll wait six months, but I'm telling you right now, I'm going to marry your daughter.' I meant it. I think he was surprised.' The parents, Adalbert von Gontard Jr., a former vice president of the Manufacturers Hanover Trust Company and of Metromedia, and his wife, Mamie, invited the young man to meet their friends in Greenwich. It was an ordeal he will never forget. 'I couldn't even imagine what it was like in Connecticut,' he said. 'I'd never even been on a big airplane.' He was intimidated by the big party the von Gontards gave at their manicured Greenwich estate, in front of the stables. 'Her father got up and made this speech,' Mr. Daniel said. 'Then he says, 'My future son-in-law has a few words to say.' I don't even remember what I said. From that moment it was an uphill climb. I don't know when downhill started.' This mortification was followed by a black-tie affair. 'I didn't even take a jacket,' Mr. Daniel said. 'It was awful - the most miserable feeling I ever had in my life.' Mr. Daniel's parents, in Texas, were just as dubious about the impending union, but for different reasons. His father, Don, a cowboy with only a ninth-grade education, and his mother, Margaret, a kindergarten teacher, saw a flashy, high-flying girl from the East and doubted her intentions. 'They were afraid I was just playing with him, that I was just down here on a fling,' Mrs. Daniel said. 'They believe when you get married you should stay married.' But the doubts of both families eventually were overcome. 'It took both parents a long time to understand both of us,' Mr. Daniel said. 'But there was a willingness to learn.' The von Gontards are now regular visitors to the ranch, enjoying the quail hunting and horseback riding. On Oct. 10, 1981, the couple were married in a colorful Western wedding at the Pitchfork Ranch. A dozen cowboys on gray horses rode behind the buggy carrying the betrothed, and a rodeo followed. The festivities, which lasted three days, were the talk of West Texas. At first, Mrs. Daniel worked alongside her her husband, rising at 4 A.M. to fix breakfast, then working the cattle on horseback with the cowpokes, breaking away to fix lunch for the ranch hands, then heading out on the range again until dinner. 'I loved it -I'd rather be out there horsebacking,' she said. Her life changed drastically with the birth of her children, Colton, now 3, and Rebecca Lee, 1. She is home most of the time, cooking and changing diapers, something her parents never had to do. The house is typical of West Texas ranch life. The plain furniture might have been bought at a local discount store, and rodeo photographs hang on the wood-paneled walls of the small living room, which is cluttered with toys. The kitchen is nothing fancy: an electric range, a microwave oven, a refrigerator, simple wheat-colored cabinets, a double sink and a beige linoleum floor. Outside is a menagerie: pheasants, purebred greyhounds, chickens, horses, turkeys. Mrs. Daniel said she has adjusted to the isolation, but adjusting has meant, among other things, learning cardiopulmonary resuscitation, keeping kits for snakebites and bee stings, and worrying that the children have no friends. Does she miss anything from her former life? Swimming, she said, and fox hunting. Her mother and sister send their castoff clothes. 'Whatever's two years old is the hottest fashion out here,' she said. Mr. Daniel has gone into partnership with his father and two brothers, Duane and Michael. Together they graze 3,000 to 4,000 head of cattle on 90,000 leased acres, stable 40 horses and grow 4,000 acres of wheat. It is endless toil, but the Daniels bought their stock and signed their leases three years ago when drought and sorry cattle prices had driven costs way down. Now that rains have come and prices are up, they are doing well. Mr. Daniel also has his own fuel-supply business, selling to other ranchers and farmers. 'My grandparents built a brewery and a ranch,' Mrs. Daniel said. 'None of the other generations have done anything on their own, to say, 'I really did this.' Look at this land. Back East, riding was always for pleasure. Here, my husband uses his horses for work, as a tool. It's very real.' It is this quality that most impresses her husband, whose family understood that hard work was necessary for survival. 'Inheritance is wonderful, but I don't believe you should live off your grandfather's roots,' he said. 'That is the binding part of the marriage.'",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Calendar: Tours, Talk And Auction Blossoming Brooklyn Brooklyn Botanic Garden, 1000 Washington Avenue, off Eastern Parkway; (718) 622-4433. The garden's annual cherry blossom festival will be held on Saturday and Sunday from 10 A.M. to 6 P.M., with tours of the Japanese Hill-and-Pond Garden and the C. V. Starr Bonsai Museum, horticultural demonstrations and Japanese cultural events. Free with garden admission: $3; students and those 65 and older, $1.50. The spring plant sale will take place on Wednesday, from 9 A.M. to 7 P.M., and next Thursday, from 9 A.M. to 3 P.M. Artists on the Podium Greenwich Village Society for Historic Preservation; (212) 924-3895. On Tuesday at 6:30 P.M., the artists Christo and Jeanne-Claude will speak on their work at Tishman Auditorium, 40 Washington Square South. Reservations are required. A dinner with the art'sts will follow. Tickets: lecture only, $25; students and those 55 and older, $15; lecture and dinner, $300. Victorian Houses in Brooklyn Flatbush Tompkins Church, East 19th Street and Dorchester Road; (718) 469-8990. The Flatbush Development Corporation is sponsoring a self-guided tour of 12 houses on Sunday, from 1 to 6 P.M. Participants may walk or take shuttle buses. Tickets, $20. Exploring Philadelphia Philadelphia Open House; (215) 928-1188. Philadelphia Open House, a series of 30 self-guided walking tours and tours of gardens and country houses in addition to bus tours, starts today and continues through May 19. Tickets range from $20 to $80. English Gardens in Town Bergdorf Goodman, Fifth Avenue at 57th Street, seventh floor. Lady Pulbrook, a founder of Pulbrook & Gould, a leading society florist in London and a training ground for some of the world's most prominent floral designers, will be at Bergdorf Goodman on May 3 and 4 to sign her new book, ""Flowers for All Occasions.""",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Two Scientists Caught in Amber 'YOU need 300 objects to furnish an apartment, just for the record,' said Stuart Pivar, a scientist and art collector, in a grand tone reminiscent of Diana Vreeland. Ms. Vreeland was a close friend and taught him the effectiveness of pontification. It can be safely guessed that Mr. Pivar has more than 300 objects in the duplex apartment he shares with Helen Matsos in a neo-Gothic building on West 67th Street in Manhattan. His belongings include figurative art and Renaissance furnishings, modern ceramics and an inherited piano. Mr. Pivar, 72, has long been involved with the New York art scene. The son of an importer of velvet ribbons and an intensely style-conscious mother, he was a founder of the New York Academy of Art, then in the East Village and now on Franklin Street in TriBeCa, with Andy Warhol. (Mr. Pivar was invited to Warhol's Factory by a friend in the early 1970's, and he and Warhol soon became close friends and shopping companions.) Made wealthy by the industrial companies he founded, Mr. Pivar bought his apartment in 1975 from an elderly woman who had lived there for 60 years. The apartment, including its contents -- chiefly 19th-century salon furniture and what he calls respectable Renaissance reproductions -- cost him $85,000. He then sold all the furniture, except the Steinway piano and theatrical costumes, at Sotheby's for nearly the same amount, in effect getting the apartment free. 'It is a good thing to identify yourself as a collector,' Mr. Pivar said. 'People will bring you things.' Doormen, recognizing his acquisitive nature, have presented him with art left behind by other residents, including stacks of nude drawings by the American realist painter Leon Kroll (1884-1974, known for his depictions of the female form), who had once lived in the building. Mr. Pivar himself has added, among many other things, a set of twisted Solomonic columns -- the kind Bernini used at St. Peter's in Rome -- and a sculpture of a Greek goddess. He has also amassed precious musical instruments including the 16th-century harpsichord in his study and a platinum flute, which he bought at auction in 1986 for $187,000, he said, after a bidding war with an investment banker, who wanted to buy it for his 12-year-old-daughter. Warhol's diary entry that year for Oct. 18 recorded the moment: 'Stuart kept his paddle up and I could feel his whole body next to me shaking. When the hammer came down, Stuart was just in shock. Just in shock. He then consumed two double martinis and four hot chocolates.' On the floor underneath the harpsichord is a surprising sight: a large number of familiar-looking bronze Rodins. Mr. Pivar refers to them, with a shrug, as his Rodin forest. As he puts it, 'Everyone has a Rodin.' When he bought the apartment, he did make the previous owner one promise. No matter what, 'I was not allowed to tear down her beloved wallcovering of rose-gold silk brocade,' he said, 'and I wouldn't dream of committing such an act of cruelty.' He covers the shabby spots with paintings. 'It's an amazing background for art objects,' he said. 'I like the lightly anachronistic effect that it gives.' He immediately began replacing her 19th-century furniture, however, with Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque pieces. 'Buying is easy,' he said. 'All you have to do is raise your hand, and if you hold it up long enough, everything is yours.' Competition is relatively sparse for Renaissance furniture. 'Not everybody wants to live in a period space,' he said. Thus, he was able to buy a fresco attributed to Giulio Romano's studio for $12,000, whereas other things he has bought, including the flute and cookie jars from the Warhol collection, have attracted more heated competition. And then there are the bones, many displayed against black velvet. Mr. Pivar, who is fascinated by anatomy, has a real human skeleton as well as artificial bones created at his instructions by a young artist. A menagerie of stuffed animals, also on the second floor, is further evidence of Mr. Pivar's fascination with the natural world. Ms. Matsos, 39, is a biophysicist with a special expertise in looking for fossil life in Martian meteorites. She is a consulting researcher at the National Aeronautics and Space Administration and the editor in chief of Astrobiology Magazine, an Internet publication based at the Goddard Institute of Columbia University. The Gothic and Renaissance pieces in the Pivar collection are relative newcomers compared with Martian fossils, and wholly to her taste. 'It is wonderful to know that people 500 years ago were creating such grandeur and beauty,' she said. Growing up in an Art Deco apartment in New York City, Mr. Pivar was surrounded by furniture his mother had one day painted white, even the mahogany. He became a collector at 7. First it was an extensive collection of bugs. 'Today you can walk through Central Park without encountering a single bug,' he complained. At summer camp in Kingston, N.Y., he traded bottle caps with other boys, manipulating the market by very sparingly trading his Pepsi caps, he remembers. When the price of a Pepsi bottle cap was high enough, he would sell. He was 8. Mr. Pivar's early interest in insects and their metamorphosis eventually led him to focus on exploring human embryonic development. His scientific interests and his collecting habits are supported by a group of plastic mold companies he founded in 1959 under the name Chemtainer Industries. 'I don't work,' he said. 'These firms are on autopilot.' On the second floor is a large collection of gem stones he inherited from Warhol. Until Warhol's death in 1987, he and Mr. Pivar went on almost daily shopping trips. 'He wasn't a very knowledgeable buyer,' Mr. Pivar said. 'And he'd ask me for my opinion, which he always ignored. Because my opinion was, 'Don't buy that junk.' He would buy it anyway.' Mr. Pivar, who plays the piano and a 17th-century Italian cello, is fond of classical music, the three B's, meaning Bach, Beethoven and Brahms, and Mozart. He met Ms. Matsos 10 years ago, when a friend took her to his apartment for one of his frequent musical evenings. A trained opera singer who has toured Europe and the United States, she believes that Baroque music works especially well in their opulent environment. But she and Mr. Pivar are just as likely to play blues and jazz on the long-resident Steinway, which is in the living room. 'There is nothing uglier in the whole world than the shape of a piano,' he said. 'Unfortunately I need it. But it is completely wrong for the room, and I apologize for it.' And then the piano is hard to move. Much of his Gothic and Renaissance furniture is highly portable, chests and campaign chairs that fold up like modern beach chairs. His desk closes up and becomes a trunk: 'You can keep all your knickknacks in there,' he said. A huge table is put together cunningly in five pieces. 'It can be dismantled in seconds,' he said. 'Even the wooden walls that fit magically into one of the upstairs rooms come right off and flatten into a stack -- a mobile home,' he said, speaking of the Renaissance walls in his study. 'I could be out of here in 15 minutes, walls and all.' But it seems clear he will stay and that he will continue to acquire. 'Every time I see an example of something that is better than what I own, I buy it,' he said. 'Otherwise for the rest of my life I have to live with the knowledge that someplace in the world something is floating around that is better than mine, and that's intolerable.'",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Yippies' Answer to Smoke-Filled Rooms ON a crisp spring morning in the East Village, Dana Beal could envision a future for the Yippies, and it involved coffee and real estate. Mr. Beal, 56, has long white hair and a thick white mustache that give him the look of a character from a Civil War movie. A younger woman who gave her name as War Cry listened as he spoke. Real estate has been his continuing irritation; coffee, he hoped, might be his relief. Since 1973 he has lived in a three-story brick building at 9 Bleecker Street that has functioned as an informal headquarters for some veterans of the Yippie movement, which now continues as a campaign to ease drug policies. But like many remnants of the neighborhood's scruffier past, Mr. Beal found himself on the short end of the real estate boom. Last May he lost his final legal motion to prevent his landlord from selling the building. What he would like, he said, is to set up a foundation to buy the building -- priced at about $1.5 million -- and turn it into a Yippie museum, supported in large part by a coffee bar and a bookstore. 'The Yippies are supposed to come back to New York in 2004,' Mr. Beal said. 'And this building might not be there for them.' Though it is not the original Yippie outpost in New York -- that was on Union Square, where in the Vietnam era Abbie Hoffman, Jerry Rubin and others combined outrageous humor, theater and political protest -- Mr. Beal's building has a history. Yipster Times was published on the third floor. Aron Kay, known as Pieman for his preferred manner of greeting political figures, used to live in the basement. From his prodigiously messy digs, Mr. Beal organizes a network of annual pot parades, successors to the Yippie smoke-ins. This year's parades, which are scheduled for Saturday, will include demonstrations in more than 200 cities around the world, he said. On this morning the building was a hive of activity, as various people of college age weaved in and out among boxes of papers. There was a sparsely furnished lounge area on the ground floor and Mr. Beal's apartment and work space on the second. A man stirred groggily from a sleeping area known as the leopard skin loft above the lounge area. The third floor, where another longtime Yippie named Alice Torbush lives, was off limits. If the décor had a unifying motif, it was the marijuana leaf. But on this weekday morning there was other business afoot. Encouraged by the turnouts at antiwar demonstrations earlier this year and provoked by the prospect of a Republican National Convention in New York next summer, a handful of Yippies and fellow travelers have lurched back toward the public rostrum, not as pranksters this time but as creatures of the college lecture circuit. Nine have formed a Yippie! Speakers Bureau, including Mr. Beal; Paul Krassner, the satirist and stand-up comedian; and Grace Slick, the singer in Jefferson Airplane. They are now soliciting dates for next fall, at fees ranging from several thousand dollars for those not so well known to $15,000 or more for Ms. Slick. 'This is the antiwar equivalent of a veterans' group,' said Mr. Krassner, 70, speaking from his home in Desert Hot Springs, Calif. 'And we don't get good health care either.' Mr. Krassner, who coined the term Yippie, for Youth International Party, in 1967 and who founded the alternative magazine The Realist, added: 'It's strange to be 70 and still identify with a youth movement. But I'd rather identify with evolution than stagnation.' At Mr. Beal's home, Michael Forman, who is organizing the bureau's Steal This Speaking Tour, described how the playing field for the Yippies' brand of mischief had changed. 'If we dropped dollar bills at the stock exchange now,' he said, 'it would be perceived as a terrorist act.' Mr. Forman, 61, said he met Abbie Hoffman, one of the founding Yippies, on a freedom ride in the South in 1961, and remained in contact until Mr. Hoffman's death in 1989. He and Mr. Beal display a cantankerous comic rapport. 'I'm sorry the place is such a mess,' Mr. Beal said, as if suddenly noticing that it was the maid's day off. 'Oh, that's the funniest line in the interview,' Mr. Forman said. He stressed that the speakers would now have to present themselves as wise elders, even if their wisdom mainly concerned matters of youth culture. 'We can't tell people to kill their parents,' he said, beginning a recitation of the Yippies' greatest hits. 'That was a mistake. We can't threaten to put acid in the reservoir. That was a mistake. 'We have to stay within the laws. America's got a different consciousness now.' If this seems uncharacteristically conciliatory, coming from a group that once claimed to have levitated the Pentagon and ran a pig for president, consider another recent Yippie sighting. The giant reinsurance company Swiss Re has recently run ads, including one in this newspaper, built around a quotation from Jerry Rubin, who died in 1994. Once vilified by the corporate establishment, Yippie musings have now been turned into copy for the reinsurance business. When he saw this bit of co-optation, Gustin L. Reichbach, 56, a former Yippie who is now a New York State Supreme Court justice in Brooklyn -- and a member of the Yippie! Speakers Bureau -- saw the turnabout not as a violation of Yippie principles but as a sign of victory. 'Imagine my astonishment,' Justice Reichbach wrote in an e-mail message, citing the ad as confirmation that the counterculture of the 1960's had shifted the boundaries of what is now considered mainstream. 'Changing the boundaries indeed!' The Yippie! Speakers Bureau is itself a reprise of an idea Abbie Hoffman had for a Movement Speakers Bureau. For Ms. Slick, speaking from her home in Southern California, the tour is an idea that was best delayed. Now, she said, the speakers might know what they're talking about. In her younger days, Ms. Slick once tried to take Mr. Hoffman as her date to a White House tea party, at which they planned to put LSD in Richard Nixon's tea. Though she had been invited to the event -- she attended the same small women's college as Patricia Nixon -- she and Mr. Hoffman were intercepted at the door. Speaking of her own generation in its younger years, Ms. Slick said: 'Young people should be seen and not heard, because they're good-looking but not too bright. We're pretty bright now, but we're ugly.' She said she had no fixed expectations of the college circuit. 'I don't think we're trying to bring anything back,' she said. 'But you don't often get a chance to find out what 18-year-olds think. I think it'll be fascinating.' It remains to be seen whether college campuses will embrace the graying veterans -- and by the same token, whether museumgoers will wish to linger over espresso in the epicenter of the smoke-in movement. Jack Hoffman, Abbie's younger brother, has his doubts. 'You've got to get some young celebrities,' said Mr. Hoffman, 63, who is a member of the speakers' bureau. 'To get the oldie-but-goodies out there is O.K., but we've got to appeal to the young people.' Patrick Kroupa, 34, a former computer hacker who is also in the speakers' bureau, said students were closer to Yippie ideas than people thought. 'The counterculture didn't drop dead,' said Mr. Kroupa, who said he participated in various computer activities organized by the Yippies in the early 1980's. 'It just went online.' This history, like much involving the Yippies, can be grounds for argument. During their lifetimes, Mr. Hoffman and Mr. Rubin argued vehemently with each other and with other Yippies, including Mr. Beal, who at one point helped lead a splinter group called the Zippies. Even now, Jack Hoffman says he has run afoul of Yippie faithful for talking about his brother's bouts with manic depression. The building at 9 Bleecker Street, too, has a contested claim to historical significance. Some original Yippies argue that the group's important years, bracketed by the national conventions in 1968 and 1972, took place before Mr. Beal moved into the building. Mr. Beal sees this argument as an attempt to preserve a limited version of counterculture history that denies the importance of later events. 'There's all this fighting about who controls the legacy of the name 'Yippie,' ' Mr. Beal said. 'It's like people in the black community fighting over the legacy of Martin Luther King.' Mr. Beal said he has raised $110,000 toward purchase of the building, but has not yet formed the limited liability corporation that would actually buy it and lease it for use as a Yippie museum. Though his plans are vague, he perked up at the possibilities. 'We could bring out the Yipster Times again,' he said. 'We still have the equipment. All we need is an ad rep.' Mr. Forman waited a beat. 'Stop looking at me,' he said.",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"If Seen, Then Not Heard LEAD: To The Living Section: To The Living Section: I've just read your article 'The New York Baby's Going Out Guide' [ May 27 ] and feel that a comment is in order. Although I enjoy being around children tremendously, I also think that those under the age of good behavior have a lot in common with cigarette smoke and transistor radios: there are places where they just don't belong. Why do some parents insist on taking children places where noise is inappropriate? MARIAN R. NELSON Manhattan",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Fuzzy Dice Decor: The Car Interior As Living Room LEAD: ERIN MURPHY SCHNEEWEISS keeps two tiny teddy bears on the dashboard of her sporty white car: one wears a white dress with a veil; the other, a dinner jacket and top hat. 'Everyone sees them,' said Mrs. Schneeweiss, who lives in Midland Park, N.J., and drives a 1986 Pontiac Fiero. 'Everyone asks if I'm married, everyone says congratulations, and they bring back memories every time I look at them. ERIN MURPHY SCHNEEWEISS keeps two tiny teddy bears on the dashboard of her sporty white car: one wears a white dress with a veil; the other, a dinner jacket and top hat. 'Everyone sees them,' said Mrs. Schneeweiss, who lives in Midland Park, N.J., and drives a 1986 Pontiac Fiero. 'Everyone asks if I'm married, everyone says congratulations, and they bring back memories every time I look at them. They're a very personal thing.' If you are what you drive, as some car-conscious consumers maintain, then personalizing the passenger compartment can be as time-consuming and emotionally demanding as choosing between Chippendale and Louis XV. It certainly is as lucrative: automobile accessories have become a billion-dollar business. But in the tiny space of a car, a space already defined by fake wood on the dashboard and carpet made of fibers not found in nature, the result is usually more kitsch than elegance: fuzzy dice dangle from rear-view mirrors, and stuffed cats creep in on suction-cup feet. For millions of drivers, these items add just the right touch by turning one interior space into a microcosm of another. 'We identify so closely with our automobiles that it makes sense to think of them as extensions of the home,' two British psychologists, Peter Marsh and Peter Collett, wrote in 'Driving Passion: The Psychology of the Car' (Faber & Faber, 1987). Ever since the early auto makers put tops on their motorized buggies, the car has been a kind of portable room, with seats as plush as an easy chair, a windshield as big as a picture window and a dashboard that Dr. Michael Marsden maintains is 'a kind of mantelpiece on which we display objects of affection.' To Dr. Marsden, a professor of popular culture at Bowling Green State University, the rear-view mirror serves as the automotive equivalent of the peg above the mantelpiece, from which Colonial families hung muskets or ancestral portraits. Like what's hung on the walls of a home, the items that decorate a car, from decals in the windows to stuffed animals on the back seat, tell much about the likes and dislikes of the owner. 'Look at what you're proclaiming,' Dr. Marsden said. ' 'I went to this university; I like this cartoon character.' You are projecting yourself to the outside world. It's a remarkable kind of thing. People are using their automobiles as a giant billboard for their own particular tastes and their own particular values.' Dangling from the rear-view mirror of Marika Guyton's Ford EXP is a little plastic hamburger in a bun; a Garfield, the comic-strip cat; a ballpoint pen, and a deodorizer. 'I like stuffed animals and hamburgers,' she said, 'and I like my car to smell nice.' As in home furnishings, there are trends in automotive accessories. Particularly popular this year are stuffed animals anchored to windows, a marketing bonanza for the obese and obstreperous Garfield, poised to escape from thousands of cars at the sight of Odie, his canine nemesis. One motorist, Clara Pugh, has a veritable zoo in her car: lions and tigers and bears, oh my, and even Minnie Mouse. 'It's a home away from home,' said Ms. Pugh, who helps manage a K Mart store in Paramus, N.J. 'I had stuffed animals in my bedroom, so having them in the car is a natural.' Stuffed animals also appeal to drivers who love pets but wouldn't let them in their living rooms and know better than to leave live animals in closed cars. One of last year's biggest sellers, yellow plastic signs, are seen less often this year. Whether this means that there are fewer 'babies on board' or 'mothers-in-law in trunk' is unclear. 'I want a sign that says, 'Yellow sign in trunk,' ' said one woman from New Jersey who declined to identify herself. 'I got tired of the sign fad real fast.' Now, she keeps a teddy bear on the dashboard. But some motorists are not concerned with trendy items. Hanging from the rear-view mirror of Linda Brown's red 1967 Camaro is a white foxtail, the tassle from her graduation at Passaic Valley High School last June and a small bear. On the dashboard are Rodney, a bulldog she acquired at a Burger King, and stickers for her favorite heavy-metal bands - Anthrax, the Misfits and Fiendz. 'It's me,' said Ms. Brown, who works in a photo-finishing store in Clifton, N.J. 'Everyone sees me in the car and sees all the stuff, and they say, 'Yeah, that's her.' ' The car lacks only one thing. 'I've been looking for leopard seat covers for a year,' she said. When asked why leopard, she pulled out her leopard makeup case and said she also treasured her leopard sneakers. Dr. Marsden, the Bowling Green professor, argues that animal mascots in cars are a throwback to the foxtails that drivers once hung from their radio antennas. After World War II, Dr. Marsden said, dashboards became larger and more shelflike, and what he calls 'the personal icons' came in from the cold, the rain and the dust. This marked the beginning of the statue era and the heyday of religious objects. Dr. Marsden said one of his graduate school classmates tied a Christian statue and a voodoo doll to his rear-view mirror. 'I asked why both,' Dr. Marsden recalled. 'The answer was, 'When one quits, the other takes over.' ' One woman who lives in northern New Jersey said she would never drive without her religious medals, which were blessed by the Pope. 'No accidents,' she said when asked about them. 'They're a reminder to me to drive carefully.' Not all statues and medals that bedeck cars are religious, of course. Lisa Livi, a clerk from Paterson, N.J., has a lucky bulldog in her Z-28 Camaro. 'If I take him out, I just know I'll get in an accident,' she said. Americans' desire for personal icons has turned the automotive accessories business into a major industry that sells all the comforts of home. Executives at J. C. Whitney in Chicago, for example, claim that with 65,000 accessories in stock, it is one of the world's largest retailers of its kind. Among its catalogue offerings is a completely portable satellite dish and television receiver for $539.96. Many customers prefer function over form: a plastic holder for sunglasses costs $3.59. But Whitney also stocks eight-ball gearshift knobs ($2.60) and large foot-shaped accelerators ($5.39), just the thing for Jolly Green Giants who want to put their pedals to the metal. 'People who buy these things want to make the car their own,' Dr. Marsden said. 'It's a way of personalizing technology and integrating it into your life. That object is no longer sitting out there, distant from you, if you personalize it as your machine with your stamp on it. That says you feel quite at home.' The personality being projected, Dr. Marsden said, is generally a driver's image of himself or herself, not necessarily the truth. 'How else do you explain macho symbols and carnival objects?' he said. It has always been possible to send messages on bumper stickers, but now it's possible to personalize those, too, using changeable stick-on letters and a frame that can be attached to the rear window. And then there are other approaches. Whitney, for example, sells a license-plate frame surrounded by lights for $17.96. Frank Pepe, a Manhattan printer, preferred lights by themselves, so he bought a T-shaped light bar for the package shelf of his 1979 Lincoln Continental coupe. 'Hit the brakes, and it glitters,' he said. 'It gets people's attention.'",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Not Enough Snow for You? Talk to Your Father THE snowmaking conditions were terrific at the Heaven house a few Sundays ago: it was 17 degrees and very dry, a felicitous temperature-to-humidity ratio that would hold well into the following week. Marshall Heaven, a cheerful 53-year-old real estate developer in a red ski parka, had had his two snow guns running since the previous Friday; the 15-foot Dr. Seussian heap of snow that occupies the Heavens' sloping backyard each year from late November to early April was looking particularly impressive. Gabby, a 9-month-old cockapoo, was flopping about on and in it, her blond fur crusted with ice. Alexandra Heaven, 4 1/2, was bright pink in the face and just about to her limit; she had been sledding nonstop for two hours. Her mother, Mary Ann, 52, a former television reporter and producer who now works with her husband, scooped up both child and dog and hauled them inside for a warm-up. For some, Valentine's Day is much too late in the year for their first snow. Since Nature can no longer keep to her early deadlines, men like Mr. Heaven (snowmaking, like barbecuing, is still a gendered hobby) are taking matters into their own hands, and creating their own seasons, at least when it comes to winter. Snowmaking, since the mid-1960s the provenance of ski resorts and, more recently, some party planners, has gone domestic. Companies like Snow Economics, a maker and inventor of resort-quality snow machines in Natick, Mass. -- from which Mr. Heaven bought his two Backyard Blizzard snowmakers a few years ago -- have been selling home snowmakers since 2000. Snow at Home, a Cheshire, Conn., company run by Matt Pittman and Ken Jackie, has been shipping snowmakers for use in backyards from New Jersey to New Zealand for four years; sales are now 'in the hundreds,' Mr. Pittman said. 'We've hit every state but Hawaii,' he said last week. Mr. Pittman, who was speaking by cellphone, was with a client near Morristown, N.J., helping to put the finishing touches on what was essentially the client's personal resort, he said: a 200-foot-long slope behind the house with a warming hut at its foot and two snow machines at its peak. The previous summer, trees had been cleared and water and power lines buried below the soil's frost line, ready to hook up to two of Mr. Pittman's machines. 'New Jersey is a big area for us,' Mr. Pittman said. 'There's no snow, and lots of disposable income.' David Young, 38, who owns two Snow at Home machines, lives 15 minutes by car from Atlantic City; he has been making snow in his backyard for three years. Early last week he had two feet of snow; one day last week he took a personal day from his boat repair business to make snow all day, he said. 'It's hard to stop when the weather is right,' he said. 'You can set the guns up and go to sleep, but I like to go and mess with them. My neighbors are going to work at the casinos at 3 a.m. and I'm out there, too, messing with the guns. I just like being out in it. It's really hard to turn the guns off; it looks so good piling up.' When real snow falls, Mr. Young said, 'my daughter thinks I made it.' When you mix real snow with machine snow, Mr. Heaven said, the real stuff, which is lighter and fluffier, falls to the side and creates a cushion. 'It's great for when the kids are playing king of the mountain,' he said. 'They have this soft powder to fall in.' Those who make snow are proud of their powder. They speak passionately about its stacking qualities (it is denser than snow that starts out in a cloud) and bandy about terms like nucleation and wet bulb temperature. Forums like snowguns.com, which has over 3,700 members, show a subculture as much into the process of snowmaking as the result of it. There are discussions about how to build your own rope tow and lengthy back-and-forths about the attributes of various snow wand nozzles. Still, size matters to a snowmaker. Mr. Young dreams of a 'bigger vertical,' he said. 'Everyone who makes snow wants a larger hill.' Mr. Heaven dreams of a commercial machine, an 18-nozzle gun that would make a hill like his in an hour, he said. 'It's a serious commitment,' he said, and it would require a concrete platform to mount the thing, which costs about $30,000. 'It's a whole different story,' he said, indicating that his wife was not yet on board with a system upgrade. 'It's his avocation,' Ms. Heaven said. 'And I indulge him in it, the same way he indulges me by letting me have a pink house.' The Heavens' house, a late-19th-century carriage house they doubled the size of last year, is a pink-and-white gingerbread-style confection that cries out for the sort of frosty ground and tree cover Mr. Heaven's machines can make. Inside, there are pink Aubusson rugs and gilded walls; a ceiling fresco featuring many fat putti is in the works for the front hall; and a pair of Italian gilded angel wings sits in a wall niche made just for them. 'Mount Heaven was a no-brainer,' said Ms. Heaven, referring to her name for the snow hill her husband made, and pointing to the peak from her daughter's bedroom window upstairs. 'You've got a lot to work with when you have a name like ours.' As global warming continues to wreak havoc with the weather, snowmakers impose a nostalgic order -- albeit one that does nothing to help the situation, since snowmaking runs on electricity (and water, of course, one and a half to six gallons a minute, depending on the size of the machine). Charles Santry, president of Snow Economics, said his Backyard Blizzard Sport machine, which has a 1.5 horsepower engine, can use up to 1,650 watts. A clothes dryer guzzles more power, but snowmaking is certainly not going to win any green awards. In fact, snowmaking requires 'traditional' winter weather -- that is, temperatures well below freezing. And last year New York and Connecticut were two of the five states that posted their warmest Decembers on record. Mount Heaven melted twice that month, Mr. Heaven said ruefully. 'I love the cold,' he said. 'I love winter.' Indeed, Mr. Heaven loves all weather, whatever form it comes in. (In high school he wrote a weather column for the school newspaper called Heaven's Heaven.) He was happily monitoring this week's event. 'It's a complicated storm,' he said yesterday, reporting no melting whatsoever on Mount Heaven. 'But even if it rains, we won't suffer any snowpack loss. The mound is so dense it will just firm it up more.' Mr. Heaven turned his guns on again yesterday afternoon. He was eager to make more snow.",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Warnings on Toys Are Often Ignored, Causing Injuries OVER the past few months, reports of defects in children's toys and equipment have left parents to wonder: Are the incidents an aberration, or a signal that the 90's nursery is unsafe? Consider these recent warning signs: * After dozens of Cabbage Patch Kids Snacktime dolls munched on the hair or fingers of children playing with them, Mattel pulled the line from stores. * Playskool offered to replace parts of 280,000 highchairs because the plastic restraining bar tends to snap, causing at least 40 young children to topple to the floor. * When the tiny wheel hubs on Tonka's Soft Walkin' toy vehicles began to separate from their axles, creating a potential choking hazard, Tonka recalled one million of the little cars and trucks. Even so, in interviews over the past few weeks, the representatives of the Toy Manufacturers Association, consumer groups and government agencies agreed that most products are safer than ever because of tighter regulations and industry appreciation of the publicity value of safe toys. The greatest danger lurking in today's nursery, they say, is lax supervision and indifference toward both the age-appropriateness of toys and the warning labels on products. For example, some 121,000 children under 14 were taken to emergency rooms for toy-related injuries in 1995, according to the National Safe Kids Campaign, a nine-year-old program that aims to prevent childhood injuries. But most emergencies were caused by inappropriate behavior -- say, riding a tricycle so close to the curb that it tips over -- rather than by defective toys, said Dr. Heather Paul, executive director of Safe Kids in Washington. Toys are subject to increasingly strict scrutiny, like the Consumer Product Safety Commission's 'use and abuse' test, which includes repeatedly dropping a toy four feet and tugging at small parts. If the toy breaks, it is not allowed in stores. In addition, tighter Federal safety laws, like the 1995 Child Safety Protection Act, require retailers and manufacturers to report any hazard to the commission as soon as it surfaces, even if no injuries have occurred, or face a maximum $125 million penalty for violating product safety laws. But that threat is mostly unnecessary; the potential for bad publicity or lawsuits, industry observers say, prompts most companies to act on their own. (Imports, which account for 45 percent of the market, are inspected as they enter the country.) Efforts are under way to develop global toy safety standards, said David A. Miller, president of the Toy Manufacturers of America in New York. To this end, two international conferences have been held. But even the safest toys can be unsafe if family members and baby sitters do not act responsibly. Children must also be taught more about the dangers, experts say. During a four-hour seminar on toy safety last month at the American International Toy Fair in New York, Ann Brown, chairwoman of the commission, told how her own granddaughter had refused to wear a bike helmet, saying it made her look foolish. Ms. Brown suggested that helmets be made more attractive. But the main concern of toy makers and industry observers is that parents do not read the warning labels, although they agreed that some blame lies in the baffling charts or convoluted instructions that often accompany a product. So some manufacturers are working to eliminate assembly where possible. Even when the warnings are legitimate, printed in big letters and clearly worded, 'parents don't bother to read them,' said Wendy Shindler, a trauma nurse who is the coordinator of the Queens chapter of the National Safe Kids Campaign. Parents are also 'rushed,' said Karen DiCapua, director of the Connecticut chapter of Safe Kids. 'It's hard to get their attention.' This is so, the commission said, even though warnings have been expanded to include the reasons a toy should not be bought: 'choking hazard,' 'sharp edges and points' or 'adult assembly required.' Sometimes, Ms. DiCapua and Ms. Shindler said, misguided parents or grandparents dismiss age recommendations because they think their child is brighter than average, or will 'grow into it.' But a child's coordination or finger size may not have kept pace with intellectual development. So the child can become frustrated or hurt. Consider the predicament of Melina Crews of Westport, Conn., who was surfing the shelves of her local Toys 'R' Us store one recent afternoon while trying to keep an eye on her two lively children, 4-year-old Mark and 7-year-old Stephanie. 'You are so busy monitoring the kids,' she said as she glanced back and forth to make sure she knew where they were, 'that you can't always stop to look at the labels.' On top of that, she complained, the warnings 'aren't readily apparent.' She pointed to the box of a pirate game she was holding, which had a warning label in a bottom corner that had almost disappeared from view: it was printed in the same shade of blue as the box. Further, she noted, the typeface on the age-appropriate label in another corner was less than a quarter-inch high. An informal survey of that store also showed that the warning labels were printed in English only, with a single Spanish exception, leaving the growing number of foreign-speaking parents to fend for themselves. In the end, Ms. Crews relied on her own judgment, peering through the cellophane wrapper and considering the tiny plastic pirate figures. It seemed safe enough. She decided to buy the game. The Consumer Product Safety Commission and the National Safe Kids Campaign offer parents these suggestions for buying toys that will prevent child injuries: * Check for sturdy construction, even when buying an expensive toy. Be sure eyes, buttons and ribbons are well attached. * If a toy readily falls apart at home or seems dangerous, the Consumer Product Safety Commission can be alerted by calling (800) 638-2772. * Strings, straps or cords should never be longer than seven inches. * If a child is younger than 8, avoid electric toys with heating elements or sharp edges and points. * Remind older children to keep toys like chemistry sets or makeup kits away from toddlers and babies. * Inspect older toys regularly for jagged edges, broken parts or decorations that may have become loose. And, they add, always take time to teach children how to use a toy safely.",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Curents; Blossoms That Do The Tango LEAD: MOST flowers turn their heads toward the sun. Rock'n Flowers would rather dance, and the livelier the music and the beat, the faster they wiggle and bob. MOST flowers turn their heads toward the sun. Rock'n Flowers would rather dance, and the livelier the music and the beat, the faster they wiggle and bob. Rock'n Flowers, which are equipped with electronic phonic sensors, were created by Isamu Kataoka, a designer at Takara Company Ltd., a Tokyo toy manufacturer. They were introduced in 1988 in Tokyo, where they have been very popular. For children, Takara had been selling a dancing dog with a sensor, said Terry Terui, vice president of Takara's Manhattan office, and it wanted something similar for adults. The answer was dancing plastic flowers wearing sunglasses and holding instruments. Rock'n Flowers, which are battery-operated, come one to a pot. They sell for $29.95 each at Bloomingdale's and other stores across the country.",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"It's Time to Shrink The Big Software Box AMERICANS are used to big boxes packed with cereal or cookies, but mostly with air. But it's a surprise to see the same packaging strategy from the computer industry, which constantly boasts of miracles of compression -- of laptops seven-tenths of an inch thin, multiple megabytes squeezed onto tiny disks and digital assistants the size of a Saltine. So why does a program like Windows 98 (about $90), recorded on a single CD-ROM, arrive wrapped in a box that measures 8 inches by 10 inches by 2 inches and include a manual, a clutch of coupons and a cardboard stiffener folded with origami cleverness? The standard big software box is designed to let vendors build a bright wall of product to attract customers. Peter Janssen, former vice president of merchandising of Egghead Software, advises software companies 'to use the package as your ad.' The big box also discourages shoplifting and, packagers say, protects the disk from damage during shipping. But John Ruston, an economic analyst for the Environmental Defense Fund, who led efforts against McDonald's clamshell hamburger package, says, 'Generally, most software is egregiously overpackaged.' Software packages, Mr. Ruston notes, use virgin paper instead of recycled. The fat manuals are often redundant, since the information is already on the disk. So why do the packages continue to be so big? Mr. Ruston attributes the persistence of wasteful software packaging to industry inertia. 'This is the old outdated mentality of giving the customer value by providing a lot of stuff,' Mr. Ruston says. It's the 'lot of stuff' that's the problem. One day not long ago, I heard a rumble behind my desk and realized that the Shaq-high stack of software boxes had toppled over. So much cardboard, so much air. What for? Haven't we been here before? And not just with the McDonald's clamshell. Eight years ago, an organization called Ban the Box challenged the notion of the so-called long box, the 6-by-12-inch package that was devised to hold music CD's, which were then replacing albums. Peter Gabriel, Bonnie Raitt and U2 refused to have their music distributed in long boxes. As with computer disks, the complaint was that there was too much material surrounding the small kernel of product. Eventually, the long box was phased out. Today, the jewel box shelters CD's, electronically tagged against shoplifting. Thinking of the victory over the CD long box, New York Assemblywoman Susan John sent a letter two years ago to Bill Gates, requesting that Microsoft provide leadership in reducing software overpackaging. She pointed out that reduction would be both environmentally sound and would save Microsoft money. She never received a response. Package designers at Microsoft claim, however, that their packages are getting smaller as their manuals get smaller. (The one valid excuse for bigger packages -- the multiple disks that used to be required for some programs -- is no longer valid; today, it is rare for a program to require several disks.) Heidi Rothauser, a Microsoft spokeswoman, says that existing packaging is still needed for security and protection of the disks. But she said, 'We are working to reduce the size of packaging where possible.' And there is some progress: the company has abandoned the interior jewel case that holds the disk itself for programs like Windows 98. Still, that's not enough. The New York Times asked Tibor Kalman of M & Company, a design firm, to create a dummy package for Microsoft Word, to show how it could be done. His alternative: a cardboard slipcase with a much smaller manual and standard CD-ROM inside. The big software packages, he says, are like the humongous portions of pasta some restaurants serve. 'It shows a disrespect for the intelligence of the audience,' he said. Getting rid of the software big box may require the same strategy that defeated the CD long box: software hotshots, like the rock stars, could refuse to have their Mega-Destructacon game released in anything but a smaller, less-wasteful box. PUBLIC EYE",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Home Improvement LEAD: SO-CALLED flat roofs, which almost always slope slightly to facilitate drainage, should be inspected about twice a year. Routine maintenance and minor repairs usually can be done easily by amateurs, but widespread or major damage should be handled promptly by a licensed roofer. SO-CALLED flat roofs, which almost always slope slightly to facilitate drainage, should be inspected about twice a year. Routine maintenance and minor repairs usually can be done easily by amateurs, but widespread or major damage should be handled promptly by a licensed roofer. Most flat roofs on houses and commercial buildings are built up with several layers of roofing felt and either coal tar or asphalt. Both types may be covered with a layer of gravel or marble chips to protect the surface and reflect heat. A roof that is not covered with chips may not be strong enough to support their weight; do not add chips without consulting a building inspector or roofing engineer. Such roofs should be maintained by applying liquid roof coating every two or three years. Roof coating seals and protects the layers and fills small surface cracks. It is available in five-gallon cans from hardware stores and home centers and is applied with a disposable push broom made for the purpose. There are two types of roof coating: black and metallic. Although both contain asphalt, the black coating generally contains more and therefore has greater waterproofing ability. The metallic coating contains aluminum to reflect heat. Apply roof coating during dry, warm weather. (During hot weather, when the roofing is soft, walking on it can cause damage.) Wear old clothes, shoes and gloves; you won't be able to clean them. To transport a container of coating to the roof, use a hoist, or have an assistant on the roof to take the container from you before you step off the ladder. First, make any needed spot repairs (described in detail below), then sweep the roof free of loose material. Stir the coating thoroughly with a stick, then dip the broom, and begin spreading the material. Start at the point farthest from the ladder so you can coat the entire roof and still climb down. Spread the coating about an eighth of an inch thick, or as specified by the manufacturer. For best results when applying aluminum roof coating, brush in one direction only, and use a minimum of strokes. After finishing, dispose of the broom and soiled clothing. Tools and hard, smooth surfaces like gutters can usually be cleaned with mineral spirits. Any unused coating can be stored for up to three years if closed tightly and not allowed to freeze. Do not rely on roof coating to stop leaks or repair damaged roofing. If the condition is severe, call a licensed roofer, but if the problem is small, like an isolated blister or area of torn roofing, most of the time you can fix it yourself. If you find a blister in the roofing, first sweep loose material away from the area. Then, using a utility knife, slit the blister open along its length, one layer at a time. If the interior of the blister is dry, the problem usually is not serious. To fix it, use a putty knife to apply roofing cement (a thick black compound resembling tar) into the blister on each side. Then press the area flat. Drive one-and-a-half-inch-long flat-head roofing nails into the material on each side of the slit at intervals of about an inch. The nails must pierce the roofing and enter the wood decking underneath. Then spread a layer of roofing cement a quarter of an inch thick over the repair and about three inches beyond it on all sides. Cut a patch of 15-pound roofing felt to fit over the entire area. Fasten the patch with roofing nails spaced no more than three inches apart around the perimeter. Cover the patch and nailheads with additional cement. Blisters that are wet inside indicate a leak. Squeeze as much moisture as possible from the roofing by standing on the spot, then prop the blister open with a small stick to permit complete drying. Once the area is dry, repair the blister as described above, but to prevent a recurrence, you must also locate and repair the source of the leak - usually torn roofing or parapet flashing, or cracks around roof openings. To repair torn roofing, first sweep away any loose material. Then, using a straightedge and a utility knife, remove the tear by cutting a square or rectangle around it. On a built-up roof, cut only as deep as the damaged layer. Carefully pry out the cut section, and use it as the pattern for a patch by tracing its shape onto 15-pound roofing felt, or heavier felt thick enough to fill the opening. Next, cut the patch. Spread roofing cement over the bottom of the opening and around the edges, then press the patch into place, making sure it adheres completely. Nail the patch around the perimeter using roofing nails spaced one to two inches apart. Cover the patch with additional cement and a second patch that extends at least three inches beyond the first on all sides. Nail this patch to the roof, then cover it with a third layer of cement, followed by gravel or marble chips if appropriate. To patch parapet flashing, first pry up the metal cap protecting the ridge. Apply roofing cement to the damaged area, then cover it with a layer of new flashing, extending three inches beyond the damage on all sides. Position the upper edge of the new flashing so that the reinstalled metal cap will cover it. Cement a larger piece of new flashing over the first, and reinstall the cap with more cement. To repair cracked seams around vents, chimneys and other roof openings, apply roofing cement generously to the area.",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"In Morning Game-Show Slot, ABC Turns to Practical Matters LEAD: THE camera pans to wooden beams and a roaring fire. This is the setting for ABC's new late-morning television program 'Home.' The network calls it a 'how-to talk show' that will not be discussing life styles of the rich and famous but nitty-gritty subjects like home remodeling, bulk buying, fancy meals under $25, and a thousand uses for a glue gun. THE camera pans to wooden beams and a roaring fire. This is the setting for ABC's new late-morning television program 'Home.' The network calls it a 'how-to talk show' that will not be discussing life styles of the rich and famous but nitty-gritty subjects like home remodeling, bulk buying, fancy meals under $25, and a thousand uses for a glue gun. The setting may look laid-back and folksy, but 'Home,' a half-hour weekday program that had its premiere Monday at 11:30 A.M. Eastern time, is the product of 18 months of market research, and more time and money 'than any program in the network's daytime history,' said Mary Alice Dwyer-Dobbin, a vice president of daytime programming for ABC Entertainment. The hosts are Sandy Hill, a former co-host of 'Good Morning America' and Robb Weller, who is a co-host of 'Entertainment This Week.' 'Home' is being produced by Woody Fraser, whose past credits include 'Good Morning America' and 'The Richard Simmons Show,' among others. 'Home' is moving into a time slot traditionally occupied by game shows, when 83 percent of the viewers are women, according to ABC's research. The concept for the program, Ms. Dwyer-Dobbin said, came out of discussions with small groups of women in New York; Dayton, Ohio, and Tulsa, Okla. This was followed by a national survey and what the network calls 'tell back' groups that used a viewer-reaction meter to measure potential interest. Pilot versions were then tested in 14 cable markets around the country. 'What emerged was a desire for a how-to show,' Ms. Dwyer-Dobbin said. 'The feedback was that women enjoyed being at home but wanted people to understand what it is they do as homemakers and appreciate them. There's a renewed feeling that it's all right to be at home, whether it's as a full-time homemaker or as a career woman deciding to have children and take a few years off.' The program's subjects include health-care topics like breast self-examination and how to cook a salt-free dinner, as well as home improvement, like how to fix a leaky faucet or a faulty electrical socket. In the case of the socket, Ms. Dwyer-Dobbin noted, 'women have traditionally been conditioned to think that this requires an expensive person coming in to do the work.' Many topics have come from potential viewers, according to Mr. Fraser, who has held 'idea exchange groups' around the country to discuss household hints, crafts, cooking, entertainment and remodeling. In one continuing feature, for instance, 'Home' has bought a $167,000 two-bedroom house in need of improvement. It will be remodeled step by step on the air with advice from experts, including a real-estate agent, a contractor referral service and an interior decorator. Kitty Bartholemew, the interior decorator, confided to viewers on the first program, 'My fingernails are just itching to take the linoleum off the hardwood floors.' The program also features such examples of know-how as how to clean wooden furniture with a combination of mayonnaise and cigar ash, and how to bake a 63-egg cake. 'Home' is 'not upscale,' Mr. Fraser said. Rather, it is focused on 'the middle of the country.' It is also trying to be in touch with the times. 'Americans have always had so many choices, ' he said. 'Maybe people have decided they've tasted so much and everything is so expensive, that they're going to simplify life.' Those involved with the program say inspiration came directly from potential viewers. But it also reflects a more general growth of interest in self-improvement, exemplified by videotapes and informational programs on cable television. On public television, for instance, the half-hour program 'This Old House,' now in its ninth season, is the most popular half-hour program on the Public Broadcasting Service, according to WGBH in Boston, which produces the series. 'It feeds on the desire all of us have to improve our environment,' said Russell Morash, the executive producer and director. Mr. Morash noted that his program 'makes a deliberate attempt to attract male viewers.' Viewers who tune in to 'Home' next week can learn about the ins and outs of post-office auctions, finding a mortgage, how knitting socks can be turned into a 'big business' and a profile of the recent International Housewares Exposition in Chicago. These are the types of subjects viewers wanted, according to ABC's research. 'The real question,' Ms. Dwyer-Dobbin said, 'is, are these women going to watch what they asked for?'",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Eating Well THE soap opera continues. The story so far: The Food and Drug Administration must come up with a new format for nutrition labeling, one that will, in the bureaucratese of a Government document, ""require the required information to be conveyed to the public in a manner which enables the public to readily observe and comprehend such information and to understand its relative significance in the context of a total daily diet."" Or to put it in English, the new labels must provide enough information so that people can make food choices within the context of their daily diet. One way to do so is to provide some kind of reference -- a daily guide, also called ""daily values"" -- by which people can see how a particular food stacks up compared with the daily recommended amounts for fat, saturated fat, cholesterol, sodium, carbohydrate, fiber and protein. When we last looked at this issue, Michael Taylor, a deputy commissioner at the Food and Drug Adminstration, said the agency knew that no single format was ideal. ""What is still under discussion is the best way to provide the information in context,"" he said. ""So far, our thinking has been daily values, but there is a downside. The question is, how do you pick a number for fat and saturated fat? A single number is not the number for all consumers."" Mr. Taylor and his boss, Dr. David Kessler, Commissioner of the F.D.A., and others are asking these questions: Which format will provide the best information and protect the most vulnerable people? How can the agency get the public, and not just special interest groups, to comment on the newest proposed formats? On Monday, the Federal Register published the agency's findings so far on the proposed label formats, describing the drawbacks of each in mind-numbing detail. At the back of the document, however, several new formats were displayed. They are interesting for different reasons. Of particular concern is the one suggested by the United States Department of Agriculture, which is opposed to listing a daily guide. The agency proposes a format, similar to the current label, that has several lines at the bottom with advice like ""eat a wide variety of foods"" and ""choose a diet low in fat (30 percent of calories or less)."" That advice is hardly specific enough to be of help. Many of the foods regulated by the agency, like meat and poultry, would not look too good if their fat content was compared to the recommended daily intake. A large hamburger with cheese, for example, has about 34 grams of fat. For a woman, that would be more than half the amount of fat she should eat in one day. The Agriculture Department appears to believe that repeating general information about dietary guidelines fulfills the requirement to provide enough information to help people make choices in the context of a daily diet. But lawyers at both the Agriculture Department and the Food and Drug Administration say the label does not fulfill the mission set out in the regulations. F.D.A. officials were not willing to comment publicly this week about the Agriculture Department's proposed label, but it was clear that the agency preferred one with a daily guide, as opposed to one in which the consumer would have to calculate what percentage of calories in a food comes from fat. The Agriculture Department ""is hoping people won't do the calculations,"" one official said, adding: ""They're right. They won't."" But two of the F.D.A.'s newest proposals for label formats, illustrated above, are quite helpful. They are alternatives to the plan of basing the daily values on a single caloric intake. One would provide separate daily values for women and men, based on daily diets of 2,000 and 2,500 calories, respectively. It would suggest, for example, that women eat less than 65 grams of fat a day, and men less than 80 grams. The other alternative would offer a range of daily values based on diets of 1,600 to 2,800 calories. For someone on a 1,600-calorie diet, the fat level would be 53 grams; for someone eating 2,800 calories a day, fat could go as high as 93 grams. But nowhere on the label would it be clear that women belong in the 1,600-calorie range and men in the 2,800-calorie range. Neither of these formats is perfect. For instance, as the number of calories one consumes a day rises, the fat component is not necessarily supposed to rise at the same rate. In other words, even though 93 grams of fat is 30 percent of 2,800 calories, 93 grams of fat is too much for anyone. One other format proposal uses values pegged to a single diet. Earlier versions of this idea used a diet based on the average mean intake of 2,350 calories a day. The F.D.A. is now proposing to use 2,000 calories, closer to the daily figure for most women. ""All of the public health people said, overwhelmingly, that 2,350 was too high,"" Dr. Kessler said. ""Women are in the 1,900-to-2,200 range, so you can't have 2,350. It's misleading to women."" The agency believes that it is better to err on the side of fewer calories than more calories. The Agriculture Department has told the F.D.A. that its second choice is a label similar to either of the F.D.A.'s latest proposals. No matter what format is chosen in the fall, Dr. Kessler said he hoped the agency could get women to understand that the upper limit for their daily fat intake is 65 grams, and for men, 75 to 80 grams. The Food and Drug Administration is eager to hear what the public thinks of the new format proposals. Comments may be submitted by Aug. 19 to: Dockets Management Branch, HFA 305, Food and Drug Administration, Room 1-23, 12420 Parklawn Drive, Rockville, Md. 20857.",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Cherishing Landscapes as Living Art IF a landscape is invisible to people, they won't notice when it changes. They may not even register the fact that the glade of tall elegant sycamores in front of the Vivian Beaumont Theater at Lincoln Center has been replaced by big fat stranded-looking pear trees. Or that a playground in Central Park at West 67th Street, with its wooden ""Egyptian"" pyramid and undulating Noguchi-like forms, has lost much of its original spirit and only narrowly escaped demolition. Few people can remember when the tunnels through its cobblestone mounds were closed because parents were worried about homeless people sleeping there or syringes left around. A playground at Public School 166, on 89th Street between Amsterdam and Columbus Avenues, was once shared by the community and the school. Designed by M. Paul Friedberg in 1967 with $195,000 from the Vincent Astor Foundation, its varied terrain featured stone pyramids with slides, craters covered with geodesic domes, tree houses and water jets spilling down an amphitheater to a wading pool like some kind of mini-Villa d'Este. But it was closed to the neighborhood several years later -- because the Department of Parks and Recreation said it wasn't used enough to justify paying for an attendant there. The water was turned off. The giant spider web -- vinyl cables suspended from posts -- was taken out. And now, it's scheduled to be flattened by early next year -- and replaced with modular play equipment that meets Federal guidelines for safety and accessibility to the handicapped. The trees at Lincoln Center, and the neglect of these two 60's ""adventure"" playgrounds, are only a few examples of modern American landscapes that have fallen into disrepair because they have never been maintained in the spirit in which they were built. Many of their designers have been forgotten, because institutions don't have memories. And landscape architecture, unlike buildings, is poorly documented. These invisible landscapes are being taken up by a growing number of landscape architects around the country, who are organizing to protect their work, both as works of art and as vessels of cultural history. The reasons for their neglect vary from budget cuts and fear of lawsuits over injuries to changes in esthetics, childhood-development theories, social problems, even to what kinds of trees should be planted. Not to mention the rules of modern architecture itself. Modernist architects like Le Corbusier thought of buildings as objects, floating in a vast sea of space. ""The minute you do that, landscapes become negative space, the thing the objects are sitting on,"" said Peter Walker, a landscape architect in Berkeley, Calif., who has helped build about 200 landscapes around the world. ""That's why no one pays any attention to these spaces."" The landscapes created after World War II were not only abstract and minimalist in their design, but also reflected an optimism about solving the world's problems. ""We had the idea that there was some connection between modern art and design and social uplift, that you could transform a society,"" Mr. Walker said. ""Everybody was very hopeful after the war. We were going to save the world."" It was an era of urban renewal, and concern for public spaces -- plazas, vest-pocket parks and playgrounds where people of all classes could escape their cramped apartments and congregate. But many of those ideas foundered on the social problems that new surroundings couldn't fix. ""Maybe 1 percent of my projects are still usable and recognizable,"" Mr. Walker said. And the glade of sycamores at Lincoln Center -- designed in the early 60's by the eminent landscape architect Dan Kiley -- sculptured the air in a spatial pattern that echoed the strong horizontal and vertical planes of the surrounding architecture. The trees were densely planted, 4 to a 20-foot-square marble planter, in 3 feet of soil. They are atop a parking garage and offices, and Mr. Kiley gave strict instructions for their maintenance. ""You have to feed the roots to sustain the trees under those conditions,"" said Mr. Kiley, who practices in Vermont. ""And root-prune to keep the roots from damaging the roof. And I also wanted them clipped on top every year, which makes an architectural shape out of it, and goes beautifully with the buildings."" The trees were fertilized, and branches were pruned sporadically or when they were about to fall on people. But Mr. Kiley's instructions were never followed. And in the late 1980's, when the trees became diseased and their roots damaged the membrane of the roof, no one at Lincoln Center remembered him. ""It didn't occur to us to talk to the designer,"" said Andre Mirabelli, the senior vice president of Lincoln Center, who has been there for 24 years. Jerry A. Hastings, the director of operations, said, ""His name doesn't even show up in the archives."" Mr. Kiley said the 1989 sparse installation of pear trees -- only one to a planter -- ""devastated the design."" ""I was trying to get a sense of the relationship of this architectural grove of trees with the building itself,"" he said. ""And to give a wonderful kind of shady retreat. With one little tree in there, it just looks kind of silly."" But few people protested. At least not until two years ago, when Armand LeGardeur, a young landscape architect in Robert A. M. Stern's architecture firm, walked by and realized that Mr. Kiley's design was being erased. His observation resulted in a letter from Mr. Stern to Lincoln Center, a lobbying effort taken up by the local chapter of the American Society of Landscape Architects, and finally, an invitation from Mr. Mirabelli to Mr. Kiley to come down and advise his staff on what to do about the sycamores that are failing in Damrosch Park, south of the Metropolitan Opera House. But it would be too costly to replace the ornamental pears, Mr. Mirabelli said. Mr. Stern voiced his outrage in an interview this week: ""It looks like a bunch of lollipops on sticks. It's ruined. I think it's a great loss. It's also shocking that Kiley, who is not dead, but very much active, was not consulted."" But that's what happens when a landscape is invisible. ""The Kiley design was changed inadvertently because it wasn't seen as something,"" said Mr. Walker, who has written a book with Melanie Simo called ""Invisible Gardens: The Search for Modernism in the American Landscape"" (M.I.T. Press, 1994). ""Therefore, you could change it. Because it wasn't anything."" The playgrounds of the 1960's went hand in hand in the world's love affair with abstract art -- as well as new ideas in how children learn. Built of curving concrete (the material of the day), mounded stone and wood, they suggested shapes like pyramids and volcanos. Children crawled through tunnels and climbed ladders to ""explode"" through at the top and zip down a metal slide into a soft bed of sand. There were sand to dig in, amphitheaters for storytelling, and water fountains that flowed into channels, where children could sail sticks and homemade boats. ""They were sanitized versions of the adventure playgrounds that were built in Denmark and England during the war,"" said Michael Gotkin, a landscape architect and historian for the Central Park Conservancy. He likes to show pictures of an English boy standing triumphantly atop a scrap-wood tower (approved as safe by a play supervisor), of other boys leaping over a bonfire, of children building shacks out of old crates and rubber tires and getting dirty in the mud, doing, in other words, what children will do in a vacant lot full of junk. Some, like the playground in Central Park, at 67th Street, which was designed by Richard Dattner and finished in 1966 with $85,000 from the Lauder Foundation, even had a paid play leader, who supervised activities. ""But sometime in the 70's they stopped being able to pay for that person,"" Mr. Dattner said. About the same time, the tunnels were blocked off. ""Parents hate them,"" said Patricia McCobb, the senior landscape architect for the Central Park Conservancy. ""They hate the idea of a child getting lost and not being able to see them. Or of finding some rodent in there. Or getting dirty."" And parents are more eager to sue these days, she said. So the tunnels won't be reopened. And much of the sand will be replaced with soft safety surfacing. And the wooden pyramid, a key element in the Dattner design, may be replaced with a boat. The reason for that sounds like one of those sticky donor issues. ""The Central Park Conservancy felt the pyramid was too steep in its present form,"" Mr. Dattner said. ""So I suggested making it lower, but they wanted something new. They have a donor, and he wants to make a new statement."" But the Friedberg playground at P.S. 166, without prominent defenders, is scheduled for demolition. And even though a school official, Judy Rohn, said there hadn't been a serious injury in 30 years, Community Board No. 7 has asked for a playground with regulation equipment for younger children, paid for by the city. The price tag: $615,000. Mr. Friedberg, says that he would have been glad to alter the playground but that he was never seriously consulted. He added: ""I think we are heading into a very conservative period that is almost reductivist in design, and politically. People are obsessed, rather than concerned, about safety."" ""Should we close Central Park?"" he asked. ""Should we flatten our environment so we can see in all directions?"" DESIGN NOTEBOOK",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"Borrowing a Page (and Recipes) From Cooks in Hot Climates THE cookbook publishers certainly got it right this time. Food from steamy southern India, the sun-baked American Southwest, the torrid Arabian deserts and the entire Mediterranean basin from the Costa del Sol to North Africa might just whet the appetite when temperatures soar into the 90's. Five new books explore some or all of the Mediterranean region; all were started two to five years ago as the health benefits of a diet based on olive oil began making headlines. THE MEDITERRANEAN DIET COOKBOOK by Nancy Harmon Jenkins (Bantam, $27.95) roves the region, presenting flavorful dishes with lively introductions that add the romance of place. Cooks unfamiliar with the food of Lebanon, say, or Turkey, need not worry about arcane ingredients. Sumac, available in Middle Eastern stores and from spice emporiums, is about as esoteric as it get. Preparation is rarely complicated. Vegetables and grains dominate the recipes: a potato gratin made with olive oil and broth, cauliflower baked with a ""veil"" of cheese, a Tunisian chickpea and vegetable stew and lentil and green olive salad. A nutritional breakdown follows each recipe, revealing fat levels of more than 30 percent in some. Ms. Jenkins says that level is typical of the region and supposedly does not diminish the cholesterol-lowering effectiveness of the diet. The book contains much of the information about olive oil and Mediterranean eating habits that was presented at a conference at the Harvard School of Public Health in 1993. The conference was co-sponsored by Oldways Preservation and Exchange Trust, a nonprofit educational group. Ms. Jenkins helped found it, and it receives considerable financing from the International Olive Oil Council, a trade group. Ms. Jenkins's enthusiasm for olive oil is such that she insists ""butter is NEVER on the Mediterranean table."" THE COOKING OF THE EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN by Paula Wolfert (HarperCollins, $30) is a result of five years of travel, testing and tasting, but it has no dietary agenda. Many of its 215 recipes are based on grains, vegetables and olive oil, so they fit the Mediterranean diet prescription. They are enhanced by Ms. Wolfert's alluring stories of the people responsible for the dishes she describes. On her odyssey, she pried culinary secrets from good cooks and then set about adapting them with as little compromise as possible. The meticulous recipes bear careful reading and tending. Do not plan to whip up a Syrian dinner or a tasty Greek repast on short notice. This is food made mostly by women whose responsiblity is to care for the home and table. Muhammara, a Syrian red pepper spread with walnuts and pomegranates, starts with this advisory: ""For best results, make the recipe at least one day in advance."" The ingredients in a number of recipes require careful trimming, soaking, marinating and such, but the results are worth it. Vegetarian kibbe is a relatively simple dish. Turkish mixed vegetables or kofte and eggplant with two sauces are irresistible and relatively uncomplicated. A superb Lebanese rice pilaf is cooked with a potato crust. THE ARABIAN DELIGHTS by Anne Marie Weiss-Armush (Lowell House Global Gourmet, $25) covers some of the same territory. The author, an American who lived in Saudi Arabia for more than a decade, describes the highly perfumed food of the Arab world, the affinities that link the countries and the tastes that distinguish them. Where appropriate, she tells of variations that can change the personality of a dish like the savory ""Grandmother's potatoes"" from Syrian to Kuwaiti, Lebanese or Andalusian. She also offers linguistic asides to explain the names of dishes and ingredients. Fish fillets with honey and raisins, some marinated grilled shrimp dishes and steamed zucchini with chermoula sauce are fine for summer. FROM TAPAS TO MEZE by Joanne Weir (Crown, $27.50), takes a look at the little savory appetizers that are so popular throughout the Mediterranean world. It also offers soups, salads, risottos and enough vegetable dishes to make a meal. The book is divided by country. Though the recipes could be more precise, the author has a good palate and produces dishes that are well-seasoned. Spanish wilted greens with raisins, pine nuts and fried bread were excellent. But the shrimp and green onion pancakes were not as crispy as they should have been, and the recipe also made twice as many as the yield stated. Moving to a narrower Mediterranean area is LULU'S PROVENCAL TABLE by Richard Olney (HarperCollins, $30) the loving story of Lulu Peyraud, an inspired cook who, with her husband, Lucien, owns Domaine Tempier in the French town of Bandol, near Marseilles. It is part biography, recorded by Mr. Olney, a neighbor and friend of the Peyrauds; part celebration of Provence, and part recipes that were caught in the market, in the kitchen as Lulu cooked and at the table as the appetite-whetting colors, aromas and flavors were laid out. The sumptuously custardy apricot clafoutis, the sauteed artichokes and potatoes and the eggplant and tomato confit are invitingly straightforward. But the bouillabaisse goes on for more than a dozen pages, and some rabbit recipes are only for determined cooks. Adding to this book's appeal is its elegantly spare design. Other fine books this season include ISMAIL MERCHANT'S PASSIONATE MEALS (Hyperion, $27.50). Years of living and working in Italy, England and America have tempered the tastes of Ismail Merchant, the Indian-born movie producer and director, who is indeed a passionate and inventive cook. He infuses Western dishes like spaghetti or turkey stuffing with Indian spices, sometimes only a touch of chili or extra pepper. But when Mr. Merchant goes Indian, as in the fish curry, the braised eggplant or the sauteed okra, he does so with both spice barrels blazing. His Indian food is mighty hot, though it mellows as it simmers. And he never mentions the Mediterranean diet. DAKSHIN: VEGETARIAN CUISINE OF SOUTH INDIA by Chandra Padmanabhan (Thorsons, $26) is more exotic by far, with lavish photography. It covers sambars (thick soups), rasams (thin soups), poriyals (dry curries), snacks like idli and dosai, plus salads, seasonings, chutneys and other dishes from a vibrant cuisine rarely experienced outside India. But once the pantry is stocked with spices and grains, the rest is not very complicated. Many of the dishes take on a bit of crunch from the sizzled spices and lentils that are added in typical Indian fashion just before serving. And it is certainly worth including the fragrant tomato rasam in the summer repertory. BOBBY FLAY'S BOLD AMERICAN FOOD by Bobby Flay with Jean Schwartz (Warner Books, $34.95) offers snappy Southwestern food from Mesa Grill, the Manhattan restaurant where Mr. Flay is chef. The recipes vary from delicious (chorizo and goat cheese quesadillas) to disastrous (soupy peach and blueberry cobbler with leaden topping that seems to lack leavening). The spicy mango glaze that does wonders for grilled tuna steaks can be prepared only with difficulty because the caramel hardens once it cools. Mr. Flay's food often depends on salsas and relishes for its boldness. But frequently the yields for the condiment recipes do not match the amounts needed. The blue corn-fried chicken salad calls for three-quarters of a cup of cayenne buttermilk dressing, but the recipe for the dressing makes only half a cup. Every now and again, a cookbook comes along that is certain to find a permanent place in the kitchen. Such is MARK PEEL AND NANCY SILVERTON AT HOME: TWO CHEFS COOK FOR FAMILY AND FRIENDS , in collaboration with Edon Waycott (Warner Books, $24.94). It is a collection of relatively uncomplicated recipes for mostly hearty, straightforward food. But experienced cooks should not dismiss this book out of hand. Savvy touches elevate the home cook's technique. Like whipping the egg whites for a chocolate souffle cake with enough sugar to give them a meringue-like consistency, guaranteeing the success of a delectable cake. Or soaking a tenderloin of pork overnight in lightly salted water and spices before roasting to produce the most succulent results imaginable (although the roasting time, 30 minutes, could be a tad longer). THE ART OF QUICK BREADS by Beth Hensperger (Chronicle Books, $29.95) is more than just a pretty book. Tender, buttery pecan coffee cake, lemon-poppy seed bread and chocolate shortcakes that beg for berries and cream are just a few of the fine recipes in a book filled with sun-drenched photographs. Most recipes are for sweets, but there are some savories, like cornbreads. FISH: THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO BUYING AND COOKING by Mark Bittman (Macmillan, $27.50) mirrors the encyclopedic, authoritative approach the author takes as executive editor of the magazine Cook's Illustrated. The book has some 50 pages of sound and up-to-date basics on purchase and preparation, and it is organized fish by fish, with chapters and recipes on 72 varieties. One recipe is for tuna steaks stuffed with arugula, ginger and mustard before grilling. Still, ""complete"" is in the eye of the beholder. People in the Midwest who like whitefish and walleye will be disappointed. These fish are not included. KITCHEN BOOKSHELF",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"PARENT & CHILD WHEN Sharon Kimmich got married seven years ago, she looked forward to becoming close to her husband's two children. ""I thought they would be my children, the children that I'd never had,"" said Ms. Kimmich, who lives in Oakton, Va. Her stepchildren, now 16 and 18 years old, live with their mother and stepfather in Minnesota. ""I thought it would be like 'The Brady Bunch,' "" she said, ""but it never became that. We're not that close emotionally. I've resigned myself to thinking this is the best it's ever going to get."" Although her conclusion may be wrong, her feelings toward her stepchildren are quite common. Many people are surprised by the negative feelings they have toward their stepchildren. Yet they seldom discuss these feelings, fearing that they reveal a failure on their part. ""Parents often have the unrealistic expectation that they should love their spouse's children from the very beginning,"" said Dr. James H. Bray, a clinical psychologist and an associate professor of family medicine at Baylor College of Medicine in Houston. ""That just isn't true. It takes time for a relationship to evolve."" Studies show that the stepchild-stepparent relationship is profoundly affected by many factors that have little to do with the stepparent's personality or love of children. Also, some long-term friction between stepparents and stepchildren, especially at certain ages and in certain situations, is normal. ""Even 7 to 10 years after marriage, stepparents don't report as close a relationship with their stepchildren as biological parents have with their children,"" Dr. Bray said. ""The stronger the relationship the child has with the noncustodial parent, the weaker the relationship with the stepparent."" Stressful relationships are especially common when stepparents join a family that has adolescents. There is an inherent conflict between the stage of the new marriage, in which the emphasis is often on family togetherness, and the developmental stage of the children, who are trying to assert their independence. ""Teen-agers aren't usually enthusiastic about forming new relationships with stepparents,"" said Dr. Emily B. Visher, a clinical psychologist in Lafayette, Calif., and a founder of the Step Family Association of America. ""One 16-year-old boy told me: 'Two parents are two too many. Who wants any more?' "" She has found that although the bond between stepparents and teen-age stepchildren is often fragile, it often improves after those children leave home and are on their own for a few years. Other researchers have found similar patterns. ""One of the things that makes it hard for the relationship is that people often feel that they don't have a choice about whether to like each other,"" said Dr. Anne C. Bernstein, a clinical psychologist at the Wright Institute in Berkeley, Calif. ""Once you realize that it's not something that you're forced to feel, you often find some likable things about the other person."" Another trigger for problems within stepfamilies is the different emotional styles of spouses and their children. One side of the family may be very expressive of their feelings and opinions. The other may be more stoic and keep their emotions to themselves. ""They have different and unfulfilled expectations of the others' responses,"" said Dr. Norman Epstein, an associate professor of family and community development at the University of Maryland in College Park. Anger toward stepchildren is sometimes a reflection of hidden problems, Dr. Epstein said. For example, a stepfather may view a stepchild as spoiled, and blame his wife. But rather than show irritation toward his spouse, he directs it at the child. ""That's less threatening than treating it as an issue between the spouses,"" he said. Expect Some Tension, Not Instant Love F you find it difficult to get along with your stepchildren, here are several suggestions: Check whether your expectations are reasonable. Remember that there is no such thing as instant love, and tension is to be expected. ""Realize that, in order to live together, you have to treat each other with courtesy,"" said Dr. James H. Bray, an associate professor of family medicine at Baylor College of Medicine in Houston. ""That should be a clear expectation. It has nothing to do with liking or loving someone else."" Remember to treat each child as an individual. Although it is often simpler to treat children as ""the kids,"" it can work against you if you spend time with your children only as a group, or always have your spouse along. ""You don't have to do everything together as a family,"" said Dr. Emily B. Visher, a clinical psychologist in Lafayette, Calif., and a founder of the Step Family Association of America. ""Have some one-on-one time with each stepchild. That's how you really form and build relationships."" Don't assume that problems are due to the stepfamily relationship. They may simply be a part of normal child development. Linking it to the stepfamily can lead to trouble. ""That often makes it worse because the stepparents take it personally, which makes them more angry and defensive,"" Dr. Bray said. ""This, in turn, makes the teen-ager more angry and defensive as well. It becomes a vicious cycle."" Don't criticize your spouse about his or her children. ""That forces your spouse to choose between you,"" said Dr. Norman Epstein, an associate professor of family and community development at the University of Maryland in College Park. Instead of simply saying that the children are inconsiderate, give specific behaviors that bother you, like how they leave their clothes all over the house. ""It's easier for the other parent to hear and act on that than respond to an attack on his or her personality,"" Dr. Epstein said. If nothing seems to work, give yourself time to change your focus. Remember that some stepfamily relationships get better once the children become young adults. ""If you don't like your stepchildren, and you've felt that way for several years, accept that and keep the focus of your energies on the marriage,"" Dr. Bray said. ""That's really the long-term relationship for you. But that doesn't mean you should ignore your stepchildren.""",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"PLACE SETTINGS -- Mix and Mismatch There is an art to setting a table with mismatched china, in the British landed-gentry style, and Regina McMenamin knows it. She makes place settings in which the patterns -- with common themes like modern graphics, pink flowers, geisha girls or Blue Willow -- are different but resonant. She started her company, Let's Dish, in December in Manhattan. Ms. McMenamin, who is the advertising and promotions manager for the Four Seasons restaurant, says she haunts antiques shops and flea markets daily to add to her collection of 300 pieces. A five-piece setting starts at $90. Information: (212) 288-6958. CURRENTS",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"'Casserole' Cooked on Top of a Stove CALLING a dish a casserole suggests that it is baked in the oven, but for meals that must be ready in 20 to 30 minutes, oven baking is not an option. Today's sweet and hot rice ""casserole"" with chicken is done on top of the stove. The rice is cooked in one pot and then mixed with the ingredients and cooked for a couple of minutes to meld the tastes. The amount of hot chili paste you use in this recipe should be determined by just how spicy you like your food. Spicy Ginger Chicken and Rice Casserole 1 cup long grain rice 8 ounces skinless, boneless chicken breast 1 teaspoon canola oil 2 large cloves garlic 8 ounces whole red pepper or 7 ounces ready-cut julienned red pepper (1 1/2 cups) 3 stalks bok choy 2 tablespoons fresh or frozen ginger 2 to 3 teaspoons hot chili paste (with or without garlic) 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons sweet sake or dry sherry 3/4 cup unsweetened pineapple juice 2 teaspoons reduced-sodium soy sauce 1/8 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons scallions. 1. Combine rice with 2 cups of water and bring to boil. Reduce heat, and cook until rice is tender and liquid has been absorbed, 17 minutes total. 2. While the rice is cooking, wash, dry and cut chicken into narrow strips; heat nonstick pan large enough to hold all the ingredients over high heat. 3. Add oil to pan. Reduce heat to medium, and add chicken; brown on both sides. 4. Mince garlic; wash, trim and seed whole red pepper, and cut into julienned strips. Add garlic and pepper to chicken, and continue cooking. 5. Wash, trim and cut bok choy crosswise into narrow strips, and cut in half; add to pan, and cover. Cook over low heat. 6. Grate ginger coarsely, and add to pan with chili paste, vinegar, sake or sherry, pineapple juice and soy sauce. Continue cooking until vegetables are crisp but tender. 7. Wash, trim and slice scallions. 8. When rice is cooked, stir it into the chicken and vegetables, and mix well. Season with salt, and cook a minute or two. Serve sprinkled with scallions. Yield: 2 servings. Approximate nutritional analysis per serving: 610 calories, 5 grams fat, 65 milligrams cholesterol, 445 milligrams sodium, 35 grams protein, 100 grams carbohydrate. PLAIN AND SIMPLE",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"AT HOME WITH: Ed Feldman And Joe L'Erario; The Two Stooges Of Furniture Repair Here is the secret: Ed Feldman and Joe L'Erario, known to their passionate if offbeat fans as television's Furniture Guys, in reality don't give a varnish about furniture. ""I tell people the apocryphal story of my rise to a low level of fame,"" Mr. Feldman says one rainy morning while seated at the 1950's kitchen table of his television partner. ""The devil came down and said, 'You want to do a TV show?' I said, 'Yes.' He said, 'You've got to fix furniture.' I said, 'O.K.' He said, 'On cable. Whoo hoo!' "" ""No, first he said on PBS,"" interjects Mr. L'Erario. ""Then he said cable."" Mr. L'Erario and Mr. Feldman are the hosts of ""Furniture to Go,"" a low-budget, low-comedy home-improvement show that began in 1990 as ""Furniture on the Mend"" at the public television station in Philadelphia. The new half-hour show is now on six days a week on the Learning Channel: Monday through Friday, starting at 5:30 P.M., and twice on Saturday, at various times. The station also televises reruns of ""Furniture on the Mend."" The program brackets repair tips with witticisms and comedy sketches in which the circular Mr. Feldman and the angular Mr. L'Erario lampoon everyone from John Steinbeck to Howard Stern. The show has developed a loyal following, first among public television viewers and then among nesting baby boomers. What separates ""Furniture to Go"" from the other home shows that crowd the Saturday afternoon airwaves is the concept. While ""This Old House"" demonstrates how to install a cathedral ceiling and ""Home Time"" shows how to lay a slate floor after work, ""Furniture to Go"" tackles projects most people might actually have a prayer of completing. And while the hosts of all those other shows may have their charms, none can match the always useful, often clever, sometimes painfully bad banter of Ed and Joe. ""From Curly to Kierkegaard, we'll reference anything,"" Mr. Feldman says. ""We don't know who our audience is, so we just try everything we can think of."" Each show begins with a short skit. In one, Joe and Ed run up the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art lugging a chaise longue between them while the theme from the ""Rocky"" films blares in the background. In another, before going into how to repair a cabinet drawer, Joe patiently displays different tools to Ed and promises that one day they will have their own wood shop where they will use things like dovetails and rabbeted joints to build cabinets. Dressed in Depression-era clothes and looming over a kneeling Joe, Ed looks into the camera and pleads, in a takeoff on ""Of Mice and Men,"" ""Tell me about the rabbit, George."" Mr. L'Erario (pronounced luh-RARE-ee-oh) now lives alone in a third-floor loft in the Old City section of Philadelphia. He is divorced and has a 9-year-old son, Zane. At 39, and with his hair in a ponytail, he says he looks better than he did 20 years ago when he drank too much and worked too little. His V-shaped upper body is testament to the hours he spends pumping iron. The walls of his loft are crowded with his paintings and with framed photographs of his parents, both show-business veterans (his father was a tap dancer, his mother played steel guitar). On one wall is a photo of a young Jerry Lewis. A 32-inch television sits on a table. But there is surprisingly little furniture. From the show Mr. L'Erario has scavenged a rosy faux marble table, two multicolor armchairs, an antique red desk and a few other assorted items. No gilded armoires. No ornately carved mantel pieces. No floor-denting antiques. Mr. Feldman, who also lives alone, begs off showing his home, situated 15 minutes away in the Germantown section of the city. ""It's a mess,"" he says apologetically. Mr. Feldman, also divorced, has a 13-year-old daughter, Amanda. At 41, he jokes about his girth, which he disguises by wearing big shirts and loose-fitting jackets. His riot of curly black hair, glasses and a thick mustache make him look like a cross between Harpo and Groucho Marx. Mr. Feldman grew up in the Great Northeast section of the city; Mr. L'Erario in South Philadelphia. They met more than 15 years ago while working for a construction company. ""We tied steel, we poured concrete,"" Mr. Feldman says. ""It was no-brain work. What we did all day to entertain ourselves and the others on the crew was crack everybody up. We did entire ad-lib routines."" Mr. L'Erario says, ""We talked like Jerry Lewis one day, the entire day, just to get on the nerves of the supervisor."" Mr. Feldman adds, ""Later I drifted out of that job,"" ""Yeah, yeah. He got fired."" ""Well, O.K."" Mr. Feldman says he got into the furniture business when a friend who fixed furniture let him fill in while she was out with a broken ankle. After a year he opened his own shop. Mr. L'Erario also opened his own shop, called Refinishing by Vincent. ""I thought it was better than Refinishing by Joe,"" he says. Mr. Feldman's job entailed going to people's homes to repair department store furniture that had been damaged during delivery. It was excruciating work, he says. ""I'd lift a sofa to check the springs,"" Mr. Feldman says. ""There's a cucumber. 'I don't know how it got there.' Somebody says, 'There's a lump in my mattress.' I would reach underneath. 'Here's the pistol.' These are all true stories."" At the same time Mr. Feldman began teaching furniture repair at a local community center. He discovered that people liked furniture, and that people thought he was funny. ""People were laughing as they learned,"" he says. ""Now there's a motto."" He talked Mr. L'Erario into putting together a demonstration tape for WHYY, the PBS affiliate in Philadelphia. The show went national in 1992 under a co-production deal between WHYY and the Learning Channel. This year the Learning Channel became the sole producer. The pair say they left public television primarily because of restrictions on earning money through endorsements and outside appearances. Money, Mr. Feldman says not once but several times, is very important to both of them. ""I don't consider myself mercenary,"" he says. ""I consider myself 41 years old with a daughter in private school and a mortgage."" Between their Learning Channel paychecks, personal appearances and an advance from William Morrow & Company for their book, due for release this spring, based on their show, Ed and Joe no longer have to mend furniture. That's good, since neither one particularly likes furniture. Both grew up watching television and dreamed of appearing on the Johnny Carson ""Tonight"" show. Show-business fame and fortune was the end. Furniture, it turned out, is the means. Fame has arrived, after a fashion. In April a film producer flew them to Los Angeles and gave them bit parts as themselves in a science-fiction movie, ""Double Dragon,"" due out Thanksgiving. While walking down a street in Los Angeles, they were recognized by one of the women who displays prizes on ""The Price Is Right."" It was a thrilling moment. Back home in Philadelphia, Mr. Feldman and Mr. L'Erario can scarcely walk down the street without hearing, ""Yo, furniture guys!"" Fan mail pours in nationwide. One woman said they had the sexiest hands on television. Another has written Mr. L'Erario inviting him to North Carolina to attend a Chet Atkins concert. She is the only fan to send a photograph of herself. ""Most people send us pictures of their furniture,"" Mr. L'Erario says. Now, the two dream of a network sitcom, based on their show and featuring a collection of crazy characters resembling their friends. If it sounds a little like ""Home Improvement,"" the popular ABC show in which the comedian Tim Allen plays the host of a home show, don't mention it. The guys would like nothing better than to enclose Tim Allen under a thick coat of varnish. ""The man makes more before the first commercial than we do all year,"" Mr. Feldman says. ""But never mind. We're next.""",0 Top/Features/Home and Garden,"CURRENTS