60-MINUTE GOURMET
LEAD: IF I gave lessons to novice cooks, one of the first subjects might be 'variations on a theme' -that is, how to alter the flavor of a dish by adding an herb or a spice or by changing the cooking technique.
IF I gave lessons to novice cooks, one of the first subjects might be 'variations on a theme' -that is, how to alter the flavor of a dish by adding an herb or a spice or by changing the cooking technique.
I thought of this recently when I was asked to prepare an old family standby, chicken Pojarski. It is made with ground chicken (an alternative is veal) blended with cream and bread crumbs. The dish is said to have been created in old Russia by a tavern keeper named Pojarski. Originally made of chopped game or a blend of game and beef, it is, in effect, a version of hamburger.
When I prepared the dish I added a trace of ground cumin, a minor change that made a major transformation in taste. I served the dish with a butter sauce flavored with fresh chopped chives. The original recipe does not call for a sauce.
A first-rate accompaniment is rice with a Mexican flavor. The rice is cooked in broth with briefly cooked and cubed sweet peppers and corn fresh from the cob. It is flavored, if desired, with a tiny amount of saffron threads. This side dish requires only 17 minutes to cook. A watercress salad is good with the meal.  CHICKEN BURGERS WITH CHIVE SAUCE  4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, about 1 pound  1 1/2 cups fine fresh bread crumbs
1/2 cup fresh or canned chicken broth
1/4 cup heavy cream  2 tablespoons finely grated onion
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
Salt to taste if desired
Freshly ground pepper to taste  2 tablespoons corn, peanut or vegetable oil  4 tablespoons butter  2 tablespoons finely chopped chives.
1. Cut chicken into 1-inch cubes.
2. Put cubes in a food processor or an electric blender and blend thoroughly. Scrape chicken into a mixing bowl and add 1/2 cup bread crumbs, 1/4 cup chicken broth, cream, cumin, salt and pepper. Use fingers to blend well.
3. Spoon remaining cup of bread crumbs onto a flat surface. Divide chicken mixture into four portions; shape each into a ball and roll ball in bread crumbs. Flatten each ball into a round patty about 3/4 inch thick.
4. Heat oil in a nonstick skillet. Add patties and cook over medium-low heat about 5 minutes or until nicely browned on one side. Turn patties and cook about 5 minutes. Transfer to a warm platter.
5. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in small saucepan and add remaining broth. Bring to boil, stirring with wire whisk, and cook until reduced by half. Gradually add remaining 2 tablespoons butter, stirring with whisk.
6. Stir in chives and pour sauce over the burgers.
Yield: 4 servings.  RICE WITH PEPPERS AND CORN
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 cup diced sweet red pepper
1/4 teaspoon stem saffron, optional  1 cup rice
Salt to taste if desired
Freshly ground pepper to taste  1 1/2 cups fresh or canned chicken broth  1 medium-size ear of corn, shucked.
1. Heat butter in a saucepan and add onion, sweet pepper and saffron.
2. Add rice, salt, pepper and broth and bring to boil. Cover and cook 15 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, cut and scrape kernels from ear of corn. There should be about 3/4 cup. Stir corn into the rice mixture and cover. Cook about 2 minutes longer and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.  WATERCRESS SALAD  2 bunches unblemished watercress  1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard  2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
Salt to taste if desired
Freshly ground pepper to taste  6 tablespoons corn, peanut or vegetable oil  2 tablespoons coarsely chopped red onion  1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley.
1. Trim off and discard tough ends of watercress. Rinse watercress and drain well. Pat or spin dry.
2. Put mustard, vinegar, salt and pepper in a salad bowl. Blend with a wire whisk. Add oil, beating with whisk.
3. Add watercress and chopped onion. Sprinkle with parsley, toss and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.