Q and A
Changing Money in France
Q.  When traveling in France I find it difficult to convert dollars to francs in large amounts, for example, $5,000. Do you have any suggestions? -- T. Eaton, Mission Viejo, Calif.
A.  In major French cities, most banks or bureaux de change will readily convert large sums of dollars to francs. In small towns or rural areas, however, it is advisable to call at least one day in advance to insure that funds are available. Some banks and agencies, especially those off the usual tourist track, are often reluctant to make the transaction. A hotel telephone number where your reservations may be checked or even a room key will probably convince the agency to make the transaction as expediently as possible.
Used in ATM's, credit cards allow the conversion of dollars to francs at exchange rates that are often better than those found at bureaux de change. However, credit cards usually prevent the withdrawal of large sums at one time, and you may be charged a transaction fee (usually less than $10) and interest on the sum withdrawn. Before leaving home, ask the bank that issued your card how much you are allowed to withdraw, and what fees you will be charged for each transaction. Virtually all ATM's in France take Visa and Mastercard. Cards require a four-digit PIN code to function in France. Avoid using your credit card at bureaux de changes. They usually charge a considerable commission.
American Express card holders may withdraw francs from France's American Express centers (situated only in major cities). Platinum, gold, and green cards allow the withdrawal of $10,000, $5,000 and $1,000, respectively. Such transactions may be performed every 21 days; interest -- recently quoted at 2 percent -- is charged on the sum.
Cash cards provide yet another way of converting dollars to francs. Many French ATM's are linked to Cirrus and some to Plus. Here too, the amount of money you may withdraw and whether a fee is imposed depend on your bank back home. England's Holker Hall
Q. Could you provide information on Holker Hall in England's Lake District? -- Caroline Simpson, Detroit
A. Holker Hall, an estate in Cark-in-Cartmel dating to the 16th century, is near Grange-over-Sands, Cumbria. Formerly the residence of the Dukes of Devonshire, the house, which is surrounded by 23 acres of formal gardens, became the home of Lord and Lady Cavendish in the 1930's. Visitors can freely explore the house, which has undergone many stages of renovation, resulting in several contrasting styles of architecture and design.
The Lakeland Motor Museum, within the complex of buildings, houses over 150 cars and other vehicles. There is an 1880 Carrouche tricycle and a 1914 Dennis fire engine.
Holker Hall is open 10 A.M. to 5 P.M. daily except Saturday until Oct. 31. The Motor Museum opens at 10:30 A.M. Tickets to the house, gardens and auto museum cost about $9.50, calculated at 62 pence to the dollar. Information: (015395) 58328.  Taking the Dog
Q. My husband and I are planning a vacation in New Hampshire in September and October. We are taking our German shepherd with us. What inns will accept dogs? -- Gina Spring, Baltimore
A. A handy reference book on this subject is "Frommer's On the Road Again with Man's Best Friend: New England" by Dawn and Robert Habgood (1995; Macmillan/Howell Book House, $14.95; companion guides to other regions are also available). The book's listings include rates for people and dogs, as well as extensive descriptions of the accommodation.
There are many New Hampshire lodgings that accept dogs. Some require a nightly payment -- usually under $15 -- and advance notice, which is advisable anyway during the fall foliage season. Most do not discriminate against large dogs; only "barkers" are discouraged.
Lovett's Inn by Lafayette Brook, Route 18, Franconia, N.H. 03580, (800) 356-3802, has 22 rooms: 6 in the 1784 main inn (where dogs are not welcome) and 16 in seven modern cottages. The property, situated on 10 acres of forest and lawns, has a pond where your dog may swim, and a pool where it may not. The guest rooms in the cottages, where dogs are allowed, have large picture windows with mountain views. During the foliage season the cost is $120 to $150 a night, double occupancy, withbreakfast; $160 to $190 for breakfast and dinner. Rooms in the main inn also start at $120 in the fall. During the off-season, prices go down by about $20. There is no charge for dogs.
The Hanover Inn, Post Office Box 151, On the Green, Hanover, N.H. 03755, (800) 443-7024, which is owned by nearby Dartmouth College, has 92 rooms and 22 suites. Guests have access to Dartmouth's athletic facilities -- indoor swimming pool, tennis and squash courts, which are within walking distance. Double rooms start at $197. There is a $15 charge for dogs.
The Dana Place Inn, Pinkham Notch, Route 16, Jackson, N.H. 03846, (800) 537-9276, is surrounded by 300 acres of woods and gardens. The original 19th-century farmhouse has acquired some labyrinthine additions, so that there are now 35 rooms.  Dogs are welcome in the half-dozen or so rooms that have outside entrances. The average room rate during fall foliage is $155, including breakfast and dinner. Off-season rates are $20 to $30 less. There is no charge for dogs.  A Sicilian Village
Q.  Next year, I hope to visit my father's birthplace, the village of Santa Margherita di Belice in Sicily. Could you provide any information? -- B. Abruzzo, Tampa, Fla.
A.  Santa Margherita di Belice, about 45 miles southwest of Palermo, was founded in 1572 by the Sicilian baron Antonio Corbera on the remains of a Moorish castle. Today, little remains of the village's original buildings, most of which were destroyed by an earthquake in 1968. One site that was spared is the 17th-century Palazzo Cuto-Filangieri, which now houses the Town Hall. The palace and its surrounding park served as the setting for Luchino Visconti's 1963 film "The Leopard," starring Burt Lancaster and Claudia Cardinale.
The 13-room La Bandiera, 33 Via Umberto I, telephone 0925/31144, is the only hotel in the village. A double with bath costs about $32, figured at a rate of 1,548 lire to the dollar.
Getting to Santa Margherita Belice from Palermo is simple. The Azienda Siciliana Trasporti has daily buses from its bus terminal on Corso Re Ruggiero in Palermo leaving at 2:30 P.M., arriving at 5 P.M. The cost of a one-way ticket is about $4.75. Information: (091) 688 2783. By car one may take the Palermo-Mazara highway, exiting at the turnoff for Castelvetrano, and from there go in the direction of Menfi and then turn off again for Santa Margherita. SUZANNE MacNEILLE