Q & A
Visiting Iran
Q. I am a 50-year-old woman who has wanted to go to Iran for many years. As an American, my concern is safety. What advice do you have regarding such a trip? -- D.F., Boston
A. While there are no restrictions on travel to Iran for Americans, a State Department warning urges 'U.S. citizens to consider carefully the risks of travel to Iran,' saying the actions in Iraq 'have increased the potential threat to U.S. citizens.' Without diplomatic relations with Iran, the United States uses the Swiss Embassy in Tehran to protect its interests there.
Kelly Shannon, a department spokeswoman, said that 'more than a few' Americans have needed the Swiss Embassy's help in Iran, but that she could not estimate the number of incidents. You can find the latest State Department warnings on the Web at travel.state.gov.
Generally, though, it appears that tourists have not been targets of violence or threats. Elaine Sciolino, who is the Paris bureau chief for The Times and has reported from Iran many times in the last two decades, says little has changed since her account of a tour she took there for the Travel section in 1999. The bottom line, she says, is that tourists can feel reasonably protected, though her article made it clear that the experience of traveling in Iran is not for everyone.
She noted that the group of women she was with suffered 'uncomfortable incidents when perfect strangers told us we were misbehaving.' But they were also welcomed openly and warmly by many Iranians.
Bill Berkley, a journalist teaching at Columbia University, said a 16-day trip to Iran last month was 'a delight,' and 'I was surprised at how wide open it was to an American.'
Traveling with a guide and driver, he was advised by his guide to tell strangers who approached him that he was Canadian, but the guide introduced him to friends and associates as American. 'I had no feeling at all of being watched,' he said.
Geographic Expeditions of San Francisco, (800) 777-8183, www.geoex.com, plans two 24-day tours to Iran next year, in April and September, but also customizes tours. 'I don't think it matters whether you travel there alone or not, security is not an issue,' said Carolyn McIntyre, the regional director for Geographic Expeditions. She said women who visit can wear pants, if under a long coat, and a subdued head scarf.
Cyrus Behesti, president of Cyrus Tours in San Jose, Calif., (800) 332-9787, www.cyrustravel.com, agreed with Ms. McIntyre's assessment, saying that in four years of arranging travel to Iran, he has yet to hear of a client's being victimized. He said his trips used local guides from arrival to departure.
Bestway Tours and Safaris in Burnaby, British Columbia, (800) 663-0844, www.bestway.com, offers three package tours to Iran. But about half of its Iran business is customized tours, said Chi Pham, the tour manager, with the majority of participants over all being women and Americans. If people have concerns about safety, she puts them in touch with others who have taken a trip to Iran to discuss the experience.
Absolute Asia, in New York, (800) 736-8187, www.absoluteasia.com, which handled Mr. Berkley's trip, arranges custom travel only. Lane Nevaras, the sales manager, concedes that Iran is for experienced travelers, but added that 'sometimes women do more there, because they can mingle with Iranian women.'
And he offered this advice: if you are truly anxious about going to a particular place, choose another.
Rijksmuseum Renovations
Q. I have heard that the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam is undergoing renovations and some parts are closed. How much of the collection will be on view this winter? -- Joan Austin, Briarcliff Manor, N.Y.
A. The Rijksmuseum Amsterdam, the Netherlands' largest museum and home to many masterpieces of the 17th century, closed early this month to begin a renovation of the main 19th-century building and other construction lasting until summer 2008. But yesterday, more than 400 of the museum's greatest 17th-century holdings were to go on display in the Philips Wing in the exhibition 'The Masterpieces.'
Though just a small sampling of the museum's holdings, the exhibition will have 15 works by Rembrandt, including 'The Night Watch,' all four of the museum's Vermeers, and works by Jan Steen and Frans Hals. Also on display will be doll houses inlaid with tortoise shell by Petronella Oortman and Petronella Dunois, Delftware, silver by Lutma and the Van Vianen brothers, and historical objects.
Planning is under way for other 17th-century works to go on tour, including to the United States. Some works are at other Dutch museums, including the Rijksmuseum on the Maas, in Maastricht; the Rijksmuseum Twente, in Enschede; the Drents Museum, Assen; and the Hague Historical Museum.
The Rijksmuseum Amsterdam, at Jan Luijkanstraat 1, is open daily except New Year's Day. Admission is about $11 at $1.25 to the euro, and free under age 19. Information: (31-20) 674-7047 or www.rijksmuseum.nl.
New Year's Eve in Dublin
Q. My wife and I will be in Dublin for New Year's Eve. Do you have any suggestions for an Irish celebration? -- R.J.R., Huntington, N.Y.
A. Most Dubliners see in the new year at home parties, according to Catherine McCluskey, spokeswoman for the Dublin Tourist Center, Suffolk Street, Dublin; (353-1) 6057-7753, www.visitdublin.com. But a lot of them head to pubs to enjoy Guinness and traditional Irish music, she said.
The biggest traditional event is the ringing of the 19 bells at Christ Church Cathedral, near Eden Quay. Crowds gather outside -- often with warming liquids -- to literally ring in the new year. Information: (353-1) 677-8099 and www.cccdub.ie.
The Holiday Inn Dublin City Center, 99-107 Pearse Street, (353-1) 677-0340, www.holidayinndublin.ie, is featuring a cabaret show by the Irish balladeer, piper and composer Finbar Furey, after a wine reception and dinner at 7:30 p.m. Dancing will follow. The cost is $92 a person.
A pub with traditional music -- including the Merry Ploughboys, a ballad group, and Riverdance-style dancers -- is Taylors Three Rock, Grange Road, Rathfarnham, (353-1) 494-2999 and www.taylorsthreerock.com. The show follows dinner at 8, for $68 a person.
You can find dinner-dances at the Berkeley Court Hotel, Lansdowne Road, Ballsbridge, (353-1) 665-3211 ($160 each), and Jurys Ballsbridge Hotel, Pembroke Road, (353-1) 660-5000, www.jurysdoyle.com ($75 to $105).
RAY CORMIER
Q & A