60-Minute Gourmet
LEAD: CALF'S liver, which is one of my favorite, budget-priced meats, turns up in countless fine preparations in cuisines of the world. Among the classic French recipes are calf's liver Lyonnaise, which involves sauteeing slices of liver with onions, or a l'Anglaise, made by combining it with onions, bacon and lemon juice.
CALF'S liver, which is one of my favorite, budget-priced meats, turns up in countless fine preparations in cuisines of the world. Among the classic French recipes are calf's liver Lyonnaise, which involves sauteeing slices of liver with onions, or a l'Anglaise, made by combining it with onions, bacon and lemon juice.
From my native region, there is calf's liver a la Bourguignonne, in which slices of liver are sauteed in hot butter and the pan is deglazed with red wine and veal stock. A Venetian classic is fegato alla veneziana, liver with sliced onions, sage and black pepper.
When shopping for calf's liver, look for meat that is light pink and without blemishes. Kosher brands usually offer excellent quality.
The recipe below is similar to the Venetian version but with Cognac and chopped parsley.
I like the sweetness of the Cognac with the assertively flavored liver. Total cooking time for the liver is about six minutes. Don't brown the onions too much or the sauce will take on a bitter flavor.
At this time of year a salad of tart arugula, plum tomatoes and chopped red onions makes a good accompaniment. Parmesan cheese bread, with some garlic for good measure, is always welcome for sopping up the sauce.
Calf's Liver With Sage
4 slices calf's liver, about 1 1/4 pounds
1/4 cup instant flour for dredging
1 tablespoon olive oil
3/4 cup finely chopped onions
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage or 1 tablespoon dried
2 tablespoons Cognac
2 tablespoons chopped parsley.
1.Remove any tough arteries from the liver. Slice it into very fine julienne strips. Dredge lightly in the flour, shaking off the excess.
2.Heat the olive oil in a small nonstick skillet and add the onions. Toss and stir. Add salt and pepper. Cover and cook 10 minutes over medium heat without browning. The onions should be quite soft.
3.Heat the vegetable oil in a nonstick skillet large enough to hold the liver pieces in one layer. Add the liver, sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook over high heat 2 to 3 minutes, shaking the skillet and tossing the strips so they cook on all sides. Drain the liver in a colander.
4.Heat the butter in the same skillet and, when it is bubbling and hot, add the liver and onions. Sprinkle with sage and cook, stirring, over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle with Cognac and ignite it. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately over Parmesan cheese bread (see recipe).
Yield: 4 servings.
Arugula and Tomato Salad
1/2 pound arugula leaves
3 ripe plum tomatoes, sliced
1 cup coarsely chopped red onion
1/2 cup finely chopped Italian parsley
2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 tablespoons olive oil.
1.Pick over the arugula leaves and discard any tough stems. Rinse and drain the leaves well. Pat them dry. Place the arugula, tomatoes, onion and parsley in a salad bowl.
2.Place the vinegar in a small bowl. Add salt and pepper. Start beating while gradually adding the oil. Pour the sauce over the salad, toss and blend well.
Yield: 4 servings.
Parmesan Cheese Bread
1 large crusty loaf French or
2 tablespoons olive oil
Y cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon finely minced garlic.
1.Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
2.Split the loaf lengthwise. Brush the split sides with an equal quantity of oil. Sprinkle with cheese and garlic.
3.Arrange the halves on a baking dish. Place in oven until golden brown.
Yield: 4 servings.