Q & A
Wineries South of Rome
Q. My wife and I plan to drive from Rome to the seaside town of Agropoli in Campania. Are there wineries along the way we could visit? -- David Scholder, Winchester, Mass.
A. Asked about Campania, Eric Asimov, chief wine critic of The Times, commented that after years of producing oceans of indifferent wine, Campania has established itself in the last decade or so as an up-and-coming region. The aglianico grape is used for the region's best red wine, Taurasi, while a trio of ancient grapes, the fiano, the greco and the falanghina, make the best whites.
Campania is home to the cult winery Montevetrano, which makes cabernet sauvignons that are sought all over the world. In San Cipriano Picentino, not far from Pompei and Herculaneum, it can be visited by appointment only, by calling (39) 089-882-285; see www.montevetrano.it.
Here are a few others to consider, suggested by the Italian Wine and Food Institute, 60 East 42nd Street, New York, N.Y. 10160; (212) 867-4111, fax (212) 867-4114, and at www.italianwineandfoodinstitute.com:
Fontana di Papa, (39) 06-934-781, fax (39) 06-934-2910, online at www.fontanadipapa.com, is a large winery in Ariccia, just outside Rome. While not in Campania, it might offer a contrast in styles. A cooperative of 400 growers, it produces about 12 million bottles a year, in a variety of styles -- whites, dry reds, sparkling spumante, even organic and kosher wines. Tastings, which are free, are on weekdays only, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., and 2 to 4 p.m.
To get there from Rome, pick up the Via Appia near St. John's Basilica, and take it past Ciampino airport. Make a right onto the Via Nettunese and go about six miles to the winery.
Villa Raiano is a well-thought-of winery about 25 miles inland from Naples at Via Pescatore 19, Serino, Avellino; (39) 08-2559-2826, fax (39) 08-2559-5771. It produces 130,000 bottles a year, mostly whites but some Taurasi, too. Visits and tastings are free by appointment. The cellar is open from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., and 3 to 6 p.m., Monday through Friday.
Take highway A16 toward Naples, getting off at Avellino Est in the direction of Salerno. Exit at Serino, make a left, then a right at the second traffic light.
Cantina Caputo in Caserta, (39) 081-503-3955, fax (39) 081-503-4307, www.caputo.it, makes about a million bottles a year, about equally dry whites and dry reds. Visits and tastings are free by reservation for up to 10 people; for larger groups, $6.20 a person, at $1.23 to the euro. Open Monday to Friday.
On the A16 to Naples, follow the signs to Pomigliano-Villaliterno, and exit at Teverola-Carino. At the traffic circle, the Cantina Caputo is the first group of buildings on the right.
Learning to Sail
Q. I have heard there is a cruise company in New England that gives passengers the chance to learn to sail on vacation. Do you know what it is? -- Kevin C. Meyer, Minneapolis
A. You are probably thinking about the Maine Windjammer Association, a fleet of 14 sailing vessels that cruise the coast of Maine from mid-May to mid-October. The cruises are generally for three or six days out of Camden, Rockport or Rockland, with fares of $395 to $1,025, with meals.
The ships range from the 46-foot Mistress, with room for six passengers, to the three-masted 132-foot schooner Victory Chimes, which can carry 40. Most are restored 19th- and early 20th-century working ships.
According to Meg Maiden, the association's marketing director, every cruise offers informal lessons for anyone interested. Some skippers offer formal courses, where passengers are divided into groups and are ultimately responsible for bringing their schooner safely back to port.
Contact Maine Windjammer at Post Office Box 1144, Blue Hill, Me. 04614; (207) 374-2993, fax (207) 374-295; www.sailmainecoast.com.
You can also seek schools certified by the American Sailing Association, Post Office Box 12079, Marina del Rey, Calif. 90295; (310) 822-717, fax (310) 822-4741, www.asa.com. Its executive director, Charlie Nobles, says its 250 affiliated schools in the United States have met a code of conduct and have certified instructors.
Some of them offer instruction-vacation trips in sunny spots like Southern California, the Virgin Islands and Hawaii. A listing of these are on the Web site under 'Paradise,' but for details, you must call (310) 822-7171 or send an e-mail message to info@american-sailing.com.
RAY CORMIER
Q&A