This file shows how a undivided hakama is assembled. Reverse of cloth is a darker shade for clarity.  Shown is a symmetrically-pleated three-panel hakama, thus named for using cloth equivalent to three panels of the traditional narrow loom width (40-45cm, narrowing to ~35cm in the Edo period) for each leg. There are many variants; apart from panel number, some hakama are divided, some have a square gusset in the groin, some have deeper or shallower side openings (matadachi),  the width of the himo (waist ties) varies, the number and position of the pleats varies, there are narrow and drawstring cuffs, some have a koshi-ita, etc.. Modern hakama are often made of a permapleated polyester blend; traditional materials include linen and silk. A stiff fabric holds pleats well and allows fairly large stitches. This is a schematic drawing for a theater costume, not documentation of any garment; it does not attempt to accurately convey the detail of any garment.
Own work
HLHJ