This book was on a suggested bibliography of books to read before visiting China prepared by Longitude Books. I dutifully read it. The Kirkus review is accurate-a lot of description in a non humorous way about the hassles of living in China. However, one does gain a sense of the passage of time and the many civilizations in Xian. Simon Winchester's book cited by the other reviewers is a lot better and you should read that first. Also I would suggest Death of a Red Heroine-a modern day mystery set in Shanghai for a description of modern Chinese life and how politics affects everyday life That book was one of the top five rated new mysteries of 2000 or 2001.