If you want a big name draw, and lots of old pictures meant to impress rather than inform, than this is your book. This book seemed like it was rushed and not at all put together as well as others I have seen. Although Beckey is undoubtably a climbing guru around these parts, I have never associated his name with Rainier. As for the other author, I am sure he is quite qualified at writing a guide for the one route he "sheepherds" clients up in the summer, but heck I could regurgitate route descriptions from other books also. After reading this book I was left wondering whether or not somebody's savings account was rapidly dwindling and needed immediate damage control. This book will get you by, but when lives are on the line I want the best, and this folks ain't it.